1. Please tell us something about Kassim Denim and its history

Kassim Denim falls under the umbrella of the Machiyara group, which already had a strong corporate presence of about 25 years before jumping on the denim bandwagon. But when we started out with Kassim Denim in 1991 we had absolutely no background in denimology. We just had one mission in mind – to respond to the global denim demand.

Rebels with a cause, we started a sustainable revolution with a vertically integrated setup. Out of affection for this absolutely wonderful planet that we inhabitate, our denim ambitiously reaches for a higher reading – It’s our platform to conscious couture. Combining the details, manufacturing techniques and fabrications that make denim so desirable, we painstakingly engineer and meticulously research sustainable fibres at our well equipped labs to produce high quality organic denim.

Twenty two years down the lane, we continue to build a culture of intelligent consumerism producing eco-responsive denim that finds its way into responsible closets. Today, Kassim Denim fabricates 31.2 million metres of eco-responsive denim annually and accounts for 5% of the national denim production.

2. What are the main product strengths of your company? What kind of customer base do you cater to?

Injeanuity is our only strength, really. We respond to the ever changing fashion scenario by showcasing timely innovations that aid in keeping denim’s momentum moving forward. We are always trying to redefine denim. We keep on asking ourselves – is denim simply a mix of spun yarns dyed in indigo, or is it much more beyond that? We have never stopped thinking about how to make some of our fabrics even softer while others stiffer. How to add more sheen to the fabric, how to make our fabrics stronger, how to create more washing effects? We are even thinking of what kind of washing effect, what color of threads or cutting could match our fabric best. Being the serious denim heads that we are at Kassim Denim, you get more than just a piece of fabric. We are constantly experimenting on new sustainable concepts like recycled polyester and cotton, Tencel®, spare denim and hemp. Catering to the expanding sketchpad of possibilities for denim, we employ visionary technological processes to produce an assortment of weaves, colours, finishes and details. Our innovative role in exploring and developing new sustainable production techniques makes us lead the way.

Kassim’s meticulously researched and ecologically sustainable denim is then shipped to the finest “denim-centric” manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers globally. Our eco-friendly nature makes us popular with the Europeans, which also gives us the chance to get a preview of the hottest global trends. From street wear to haute couture – our denim adapts European runways to cosmopolitan boulevards across the globe in Turkey, Italy, Germany, Spain, Bangladesh, South America, and Egypt.

3. We hear of some interesting products from Kassim for S/S14. Can you throw some light on it?

We are constantly looking at new and innovative ways of using denim and experimenting with different techniques for that all important new season favorite. But at the same time we defy glamour. Denim is something which forms into second skin by the user so our collection has to reflect the feeling of everyday life. For summers, two major introductions are lightweight fabrics in vivid colors and knitted denims. Color has made a comeback with a bang. The female color palette is sugary pastels – all milkshake and ice cream inspired. We are featuring matt and chalky pastels and vivid flat brights in a range of primary shades giving a vintage look to powdered pinks, peaches and brighter blue shades.

We are also doing natural yarns, including linen and hemp, which update lightweights with neppy textured character. Partly in response to the need to reduce cotton consumption and also for the interesting textural qualities these fibers impart. Our finishing is imitating aged denim finishes with powdered coatings and vintage looks. We are also blending linen with our premium cotton combed yarns for a stunning effect, producing super-soft, subtly flecked denim. The slubby and neppy nature of linen and hemp gives an authentic textural interest to apparel weights. Hemp and nettle are also to be seen alongside a cotton/paper blend. Uneven smoked effects are another highlight. We are also doing Tencel® and Modal® denim which is a brilliant, super-soft fabric. It breathes, feels cool in the heat and warm in cooler temps. At the same time, it makes the apparel extremely easy-care and crease-resistant. Summer at Kassim is very colorful, very exciting. Definitely worth watching out for.

4.    Your company is an integrated manufacturer – from yarn to finished fabric. How does it help you add value for your customers?

We aim to create clothing in classic, timeless styles that are constructed out of the finest materials to the highest standards. There are 1,400 people at our manufacturing plant with only one job – to inspect our denim at each stage of the production process. We are actively involved in the full life cycle from the selection of the type of cotton we use to weave our denim and the design and preparation of our yarn, through to the application of various finishing processes. Being a vertically integrated setup gives our clients the edge to custom made denim at each stage of production.

We make denim as a labor of love. We use only the best long staple cotton farmers can harvest – result is that our denim is surprisingly soft to the touch. Our spinning department employs customized technology from the best European machinery suppliers which enables us to produce the most intricate blends of yarn with a fine eye for quality. At our dyeing unit while we propagate Indigos for denim, our choice for the environment remains clearly green. The technology for loop and rope dyeing is the latest from Italian experts. Our weaving department is supplied with flawless beams, where we believe in really pushing the limits of the denim loom. Our assorted collection of over 4,000 fabric types emphasises the impact of mystique and is showcased bi-annually to the high end fashion industry through our team of Turkish and Italian consultants. The finishing unit puts a modern spin on the original denim. Our collection comes in finishes that range from super soft silicone rinses to extremely technical vintage replica effects. This amount of control over the raw materials and the production processes gives us the opportunity to produce fabrics that are not only consistent but are designed to give the most brilliant and natural wash down effects.

Quality control at Kassim borders on the insane – we share the same sensitivity that our clients do. Our collection is eventually housed at Zara, Bershka, G-Star, Jack & Jones, Levi’s, H&M, Cheap Monday, Mango, and River Island – speaking volumes for itself.

4. What are the trends emerging that you see for denim?

The denim industry has been taking a sharp turn into a digital dimension. We should be witnessing exciting stuff with forward pushes into technical, graphic arenas and a new age of smart denim with a more premium look and feel. The introduction of laser technology is also positive, which is leading to a fresh wave of digital and graphic designs. Denim fans can expect to see a strong progression of dramatic, high-contrast colors as well as digitally engineered photo finishes. Also regarding the construction of denim, reports are showing a focus on weave innovation like 3-D technology to create a hybrid of denim that is texturised and visually woven. Denim experts are pioneering several technological advancements used within the laundry and construction that are going to be driving new breeds of denim into the next season.

6. Denim has undergone a massive transformation over the last two decades. In early 90s denim used to be a 14.5 oz standard product and today all kinds of fibers, dyeingtechniques, weaves ,finishes etc are used . How much future scope do you think is left to take these developments further?

The story of denim is well-known and better told through the wealth of well-researched books on the subject. The key point is that generation after generation, denim devotées simply cannot get enough of the blue jean—the global anti-uniform and nonconformist fashion statement. But many of today’s workers are more likely to wield a computer mouse than a pickaxe. They need a new kind of denim – casual yet dressy, relaxed yet professional.

Manufacturers have answered this schizophrenic request in a variety of ways. Today’s denim comes in new styles, fabrics, weights and colors, all rolled into garments that can be worn both on the construction site and in the penthouse suite. To achieve this corporate casual look, manufacturers offer a variety of fabrics, including twill, chambray, cotton/linen blends and denim/oxford blends. On the surface, denim appears to be a unique and easily identifiable fabric. But it can be disguised as twill or blended with a variety of natural and synthetic fibers. And that is how over the decades, designers have evolved denim and its place in our wardrobes. Denim manufacturers are diversifying by producing garments that can be worn in a corporate environment. Denim is more and more frequently blended, and some manufacturers are even trying the denim weave with other fabrics entirely. Mixing it with Spandex or Tencel gives it form and a closer, smoother fit, while other fabrics offer a completely different feel.

All these different fabrics and blends are necessary, to keep the denim market competitive, to cater to the needs of promotional products distributors and to help differentiate between the increasing number of denim producers. I think the market is going casual but dressy, with lighter fabrics.

Manufacturers are also experimenting more with textures, and lighter weight fabrics. They are cautiously expanding their color base as well to include non-traditional hues. In an effort to appeal to a more fashion-cautious corporate market, manufacturers are introducing new styles every day. The story is simple – the future of denim is in the retail, while that of the manufacturers in creativity.

7.    Europe was undergoing some difficult times and now seems to be on recovery path. But with Pakistan getting GSP benefits, Pakistan manufacturers are getting some advantage. Do you think it makes EU much more imp for Kassim.

Pakistan has an important place in denim fabric and apparel manufacturing. It’s not only our production volume of jeans and other denim apparel that sets us apart. A lot of local mills including ours are heavily investing in research and development, thus innovation in various stages of denim manufacturing is our major strength.

Pakistan’s trade with EU mainly comprises textiles that are 55 per cent, followed by leather products. EU remains Pakistan’s largest trading partner receiving 18 per cent of Pakistan’s exports and providing nine per cent of its total imports. The overall volume of trade between the EU and Pakistan is worth $8,256 million with a trade surplus of $729 million in Pakistan’s favor. Most of our clientele is based in EU and with EU granting duty free status to Pakistan (backed by Germany which receives 20% of Pakistan’s total denim exports to EU) we are definitely looking forward to exciting ventures. Overall this will also improve the sustainability of our manufacturing sector and will create additional businesses and job opportunities.

8.    How do you see the growth of Pakistan denim industry in the coming years?

The denim component has been developing the fastest in the last decade – with Pakistan touching almost 600 million square meters of denim fabric production per annum. There are about 40 major players in the denim industry of Pakistan, producing about 50 million square meters of finished denim fabric monthly. Denim is the mainstay of the Pakistani textile industry.

The top global denim fabric exporting countries including China, Hong Kong, Turkey, Italy, Pakistan, the USA, India, Japan, Spain and Brazil together accounted for as much as 83% of world denim fabric exports. Almost all of these countries witnessed a decline in their denim fabric exports in 2009-10. The only exception was Pakistan, whose exports rose by a remarkable 75% during the year 2009-10. On the other hand export of cotton denim fabrics from Pakistan increased from 45 million sq meters in 2005-06 to 229 million sq meters in 2009-10, thus showing an average increase of 50% per annum in terms of quantity.

A series of advantages including a falling currency, cotton fiber and yarn availability, modern equipment and strong incentives have progressively built a wealthy denim industry, which aid in denim apparel production and direct denim fabric exports to other Asian countries and also to Turkey. The continuously depreciating currency of Pakistan has majorly helped in maintaining the competitiveness of the industry but it is not a factor which can sustain the industry in the long run. Some mills in Pakistan have definitely tried to invest heavily in product development and innovation and this is probably the best way which will keep the industry going strong in the coming years.

9.    Do you see Pakistan becoming even more important player in the world denim industry considering China slowly reducing their capacities?

Denim manufacturers in Pakistan are looking to reposition themselves in the global market as Chinese companies are reducing their production, owing to their increasing energy and labor costs. While individual companies like ourselves will continue to make their best efforts to get a share of global business, this opportunity needs to be leveraged at the country level. China has denim capacity of 2.5 to 3 billion meters compared to Pakistan’s current capacity of around 600 million meters. We will have to wait and watch how much production is being cut by China and which customers will come to Pakistan instead of China. At this point, we cannot single out one generic competitor. The global denim market is clearly segmented into premium denims, fashion denims/value for money denims and mass denims. In premium denims, Pakistan’s competition is with Italy, Japan and a couple of Turkish mills. In fashion denims, our competition is with Turkey, Thailand, some Chinese mills and a couple of Indian mills. And in mass denims there is competition from majority of Chinese, Indian and Bangladeshi denim manufacturers. Pakistan has the advantage of having duty free access to consuming markets like Europe and Canada. With strong policies at government level we shall be able to make Pakistani denim industry more competitive and benefit from China’s production cut, adding more growth value at about 15% per annum.

10.   Lastly, how do you think Kassim would like to add value for its customers?

We are fortunate to have a leadership that defies the conventional confines of the boardroom and is actively involved in everything every day. The blueprint of our successful manufacturer-customer relationship lies in being fair, being real and urging others to do the same. This moral fibre woven into our culture supports our courage to make bold decisions on the fringe, making injeanuity matter – always. That is our contagious attitude in a nut shell and this is exactly what helps us add value in our own unique way.

For more details on Kassim denim, contact at this email address

Under the Autumn Winter 14-15 Big Top, magical illusion flirts with scientific precision, and a light, happy mood goes arm in arm with a rigorous approach.
Fabrics take up space, colour is glorified under the spotlights, fantasy flutters around shapes, trims twirl between maximal and discreet, and silhouettes open up new perspectives”

There will be some interesting events at the show including one by “Cotton Inc”. Cotton Incorporated will share  industry developments that move trends forward while preserving the authenticity of cotton denim in a seminar on 22nd May at 11am (VIP lounge).  Jeanologia – the Spanish laser manufacturer shall present a unique expo – Jeanetics – where garments are presented with an interactive tool . The visitors will be able to see all the processes associated with creation of the garment.

Here Is An Exhaustive List Of Participants At The May ‘13 Edition Of The Show.

Company Name	Category	Country
Absolute Denim Co., Ltd.	Weaver	Thailand
Adm Artistic Denim Mill Ltd	Weaver	Pakistan
Akkus Tekstil San.Tic. A.S	Garments & Finishing	Turkey
Aközbekler Tekstil San. Ve Tic. Ltd	Garments & Finishing	Turkey
Albiate 1830 Div.Cotonificio Albini Spa	Weaver	Italy
Artistic Milliners	Weaver	Pakistan
Arvind Limited	Weaver	India
Atlantic Mills Co. Ltd	Weaver	Thailand
Berning Tunisie	Accessories	Tunisia
Berto E.G. Industria Tessile S.R.L	Weaver	Italy
Blue Farm Textile Ltd	Weaver	Hong Kong
Bossa Denim & Sportswear	Weaver	Turkey
Cadica Group Spa	Accessories	Italy
Calik Denim	Weaver	Turkey
Cappio Tessuti Srl	Weaver	Italy
Cedro Textil	Weaver	Brazil
Central Fabrics Ltd	Weaver	Hong Kong
Cepex	Laundry/Fiber	Tunisia
City Corporation	Garments & Finishing	Morocco
Clariant International Ltd	Chmical Supplier	Singapore
Close To Clothes	Accessories	France
Cone Denim	Weaver	United States
Cotton Incorporated	Fiber	United States
Crescent Bahuman Ltd	Garments And Weaver	Pakistan
Crj – Confection Ras Jebel	Garments & Finishing	Tunisia
Crossing	Garments & Finishing	Morocco
Denim Clothing Company (Dcc)	Garments & Finishing	Pakistan
Denim Authority	Garments & Finishing	Tunisia
Denim De L’ile Ltd	Garments & Finishing	Mauritius
Denim Valley By Royo	Weaver	Spain
Deridesen Etiket	Accessories	Turkey
Dipama Italia Srl	Accessories	Italy
Dorlet	Accessories	France
Dynamo Denim Kumascilik Ltd	Weaver	Turkey
Eco Denim	Garments & Finishing	Tunisia
Emmetex Etichettificio Srl	Accessories	Italy
Erba Textile & Foreign Trade Ltd.	Garments & Finishing	Turkey
Fashion Point Tekstil Uretim A.S.	Garments & Finishing	Turkey
Fg Tekstil	Garments & Finishing	Turkey
Gonser Group Tunisie	Garments & Finishing	Tunisia
Etiquetas Granero	Accessories	Spain
La Griffe Internationale	Accessories	Tunisia
Hellenic Fabrics	Weaver	Greece
I.Ma.Tex. S.R.L.	Weaver	Italy
Icoma	Weaver	Morocco
Indicott	Weaver	Turkey
I.T.V – Industria Tessile Del Vomano	Weaver	Italy
Invista International Sarl	Fiber	Switzerland
Isko	Weaver	Turkey
J-Val Srl	Accessories	Italy
Jeanci Konfeksiyon San. Ve Tic. A.S.	Garments & Finishing	Turkey
Jeanologia	Machine Supplier	Spain
Kipas Denim	Weaver	Turkey
Kuroki Co. Ltd	Weaver	Japan
Labelmark Srl	Accessories	Italy
Landes Lederwarenfabrik Gmbh	Accessories	Germany
Lavasser Sarl	Garments & Finishing	Morocco
Le Faxx Jeans	Garments & Finishing	Turkey
Lenzing	Fiber	Austria;
Lst Laser Systems Technology	Machine Supplier	Turkey
Marassi Denim Sirikcioglu Mensucat	Weaver	Turkey
Maroc Export	Garments	Morocco
Matesa Tekstil	Weaver	Turkey
Mesura Tekstil	Garments & Finishing	Turkey
Metalbottoni	Accessories	Italy
Montebello Srl	Weaver	Italy
New Wash Group	Garments & Finishing	Morocco
Nihonmenpu Textile Co Ltd	Weaver	Japan
Okinawa Srl	Accessories	Italy
Orta Anadolu Tas	Weaver	Turkey
Panama Trimmings Srl	Accessories	Italy
Paris Texas	Garments & Finishing	Morocco
Prosperity Textile (Hk) Ltd	Weaver	Hong Kong
Prym Fashion / Eclair Prym	Accessories	Germany
Realkom Tekstil Urunleri	Garments & Finishing	Turkey
Realteks Textiles Company Ltd	Weaver/Trader	Turkey
Red Button	Accessories	Turkey
Confection Sabrina	Garments & Finishing	Morocco
Salgari Srl	Garments & Finishing	Italy
Textil Santanderina Sa	Weaver	Spain
Santanense	Weaver	Brazil
Sartex	Garments & Finishing	Tunisia
Soorty Enterprises (Pvt.) Ltd.	Weaver	Pakistan
Special Fabrics	Weaver	Turkey
Swift Denim	Weaver	France
Tavex	Weaver	Spain
Texpro Corp	Garments & Finishing	Tunisia
Timay And Tempo	Accessories	Turkey
Tna 33 Srl	Weaver	Italy
Turteks Tekstil Etiket	Accessories	Turkey
Uco Raymond Worldwide Denim	Weaver	Belgium
Utib – Uludag Textile Exporter Association	Association	Turkey
Us Denim Mills Ltd	Weaver	Pakistan
Ykk Europe Ltd	Accessories	Italy

A SMALL NOTE: I shall be also visiting the show on 22nd-23rd May to cover the show . I can be reached at my local cell no : +33-1-68900-4000

About this collection, Soorty develoopment team says

“Our magic hat includes Elite, Cowboy, yarn Wedding, with new and exciting colors like chlorophyll, volcano and blue flag denim. But the star of the show is our “Sustainable collection”.

Further details from the development team are given below in their own words :

Cowboy

They are rugged and dipped in the shades of western culture. Deep dark, heavy weight fabrics made for western.

Sustainable Denims

Sustainable is a collection based on recycled cotton and other natural fibers. Soorty is working hard to reduce waste, energy and water to produce a high quality denim fabric which is least harmful to the environment. It is sustainable collection is a testament of Soorty’s commitment to the better world.

Street fighter

They say the language of street is different. You have to cover your self with different identities to guard your real personality. You got to have a cunning persona to survive in rigid and hostile nature of street. you got to have the courage, you should have the rhythm and patience. You have to be a fighter. (Ask about it in PV Paris or email to Soorty for more info).

Candy floss

It is fluffy, soft and comes in different colors. No ones child hood is complete without it. This collection is inspired by those sweet memories. Fabric is soft and keeping the same flavor as conventional denim, different colors have been achieved by overdyeing.             

Textures

Textures are in !! This collection has dobbies and different fabric textures .

Yarn wedding

A combination of indigo dyed warp yarn with dyed weft creates amazing contrast with clean and over dyed look.  Soorty calls it the “Yarn Wedding”.

Nature’s beauty

It is collection of three new colors from Soorty. Volcano, Chlorophyll and Blue flag denim. Keeping the blue character of indigo color,  the character  of the fabric is enhanced  by adding different color cast to it – to give different hues to the fabric.

Elite

Elite is a fabric which stands out in terms of shine, look and texture. Targeted for the high end segment ..

Cottondex

A collaboration with Cotton Inc.  brings out this interesting stretch fabric without elastane!! . So the fabric is 100% cotton but still has properties of stretch.

Soorty at Denim by PV :  Booth # H90
Contact by email

Each season, the brand develops the most interesting fabrics with the best mills from around the world. Denim is sourced from US, Japanese and Italian mills whereas materials like hand waxed leathers come from Italy. Every garment is cut, sewn and finished using the best methods available. Some items  can even  take a few days to make. Eg the shirts are sewn using single needle construction. LMC tries to use indigo and denim in new and unexpected ways. Their denim is hand finished by the best laundries in the world.

Miles Johnson, the design director of LMC  talks about the how their SS13 collection was named “ Painted Desert” and how the elements of desert were incorporated in this collection. The inspiration from deserts translates into vibrant desert colors of sand or of setting sun or of blazing fire bringing out an interesting collection in different fabrics including selvedge denims with neps, desert colored jeans, irregular texture of sand represented through various kinds of washing effects – even using tie and dye – and many more experiments. Prints have been used to bring out desired desert looks in many pieces. In this video here , Miles Johnson talks about this collection and you can also relish some photographs from the collection below.

Levi’s lookbook pertains to their vintage collection inspired by all things 60s – from soulful Motown to West Coast hippies .  The fact that Levi’’s has been around for a long time, it enables them to recreate the trends which were there few decades back and present in a contemporary setting.

Wrangler’s take on Winter ‘13 seems to be based on dark colors including  non-indigo ones, some prints and a focus on double denim styling.

Note: – US Import data on denim apparel and fabrics (updated till March’13) and EU Import data (updated till 2012 Dec)

Soorty Denim from Pakistan has been working to reduce the environmental impact of denim manufacturing in different ways. When I interacted with their development team, they informed me about the efforts taken at various levels to contribute to sustainbility. Some of these are ennumerated below :

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Eco Fab : Eco fab are the fabrics made from recycled ore and post consumer waste. The waste fabrics and garments are shredded and converted into fibers for being spun as yarns again . Such yarn does not require any dyeing and hence 0% usage of water in dyeing process. The fabric is woven from such yarn and converted into eco-friendly recycled fabrics. This collection would be launched in the Denim by PV at Paris.

Sus Navy : Sus navy is a denim dyeing process for normal yarns which Soorty is using and which their development team claims to save 80% water in the dyeing process. The team is a bit cagey about the same for the moment as it wants to show the results during the denim by PV at Paris.

Garment production: Soorty is also a large manufacturer of denim apparel. The washing processes involve a large consumption of water . Soorty calculates that from 2005 to 2012 , their consumption of water per piece in garment manufacturing has fallen from 24 Gallons to 7.5 Gallons – a fall of about 66%.

Lasers and Ozone : Besides other chemical processes, the company also uses lasers and ozone washing to achieve lower consumptions of water . In apparel where lasers and ozone washing is used, the company claims to have achieved a standard of about 2 litres of water per piece – which is not an easy task.

Contact Soorty  for more info on their Eco Sustainability programme

The first of these videos we are featuring today is about G-Star custom made jeans at G-Star store at Causeway bay at Hong Kong.  Peter, Raw, the country manager of G-Star  Asia tells more about the tailored jeans from G-Star which enable consumers to customize their own jeans.

The second video is also from G-Star , actually showing the G-Star Fall Winter 2013 /14 runway show . The extended version of the G-Star Fall/Winter 2013 runway show at St. Agnus Kerk in Berlin, Germany. Featuring performances by Anne Soldaat, a ballerina, and Michael Madsen.

Also check out this one on Nudie jeans dry selvedge jeans  and the one from Gas Jeans on their new Pop-Up jeans is an interesting watch too !

The increased duties come from the EU’s World Trade Organization dispute with the United States over the Continued Dumping and Subsidy Offset Act, also known as the Byrd Amendment.This duty rate hike on jeans and other U.S. exports is a continuation of sanctions authorized by the World Trade Organization in retaliation for the U.S. failure to fully comply with a WTO ruling against the Continued Dumping and Subsidy Offset Act of 2000. Commonly referred to as the Byrd Amendment, this law allowed the U.S. to distribute the additional duties collected on imports of unfairly traded goods to the U.S. industries affected by such practice. The law was found to be a violation of WTO rules and despite a repeal of the law its effects were allowed to continue. As a result, the WTO allows other countries to raise tariffs on goods imported from the U.S. up to a certain amount, which varies each year.

This duty imposition will affect the Californian apparel industry the where a host of premium denim labels do their productions including those from True Religion, AG Adriano Goldschmied,  J Brand  and many other denim brands based out of LA. Most of the brands have European markets where they sell jeans at a premium prices. Women’s jeans are ,of course ,an important component of these exports .

Will this duty slap make a big impact on the US exporters ? It will , only if the quantities of women’s jeans shipped are large and the average prices are high.  Lets analyse the figures for the year 2010, 2011 and 2012 for the quantities shipped from US to EU 27 countries , their average prices and values in the table below. With the change in duty structure, the impact on the imports is also analysed and its final effect on retail prices.

Table for Women’s Jeans Exports From US to EU 2010-2012

 
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