He has worked with companies like  The Bonazzi Group/ Montebello and Tessilbrenta in Italy,  La Panama flats, and C.C.CLUB/ Pianeta Tessile, again flats and outerwear fabrics. In Turkey and with  Calik Denim for 7 years. Besides Arvind mills, Fifth Avenue and SuryaLakshmi Azgard 9, Naveena in Pakistan, Brandix, Foison, etc have been part of his clientele in his long career. 

Among brands, he was hired by Diesel -Italy to renew their denim fabrics choices and currently works with the Italian brand H.T.C ( HOLYWOOD TRADING CO.).
He loves to take care of all processes in a mill, from choosing raw materials to yarn sizes study to actual fabrics with a special focus on chemical finishes.

We thought about taking his views on various aspects of development in the industry today and he shared some of his ideas.

Q. Andrea, what changes do you see in the retail market of denim and flats post covid? Do you see strong positives or even negatives?

A. – Denim is still doing pretty well, as is the sale of fabrics and garments that I see currently. 

Flats need changes. Positive on flats, it can happen if mills start to not just follow the big buying group, they need to get Brands designers interested with new ideas, using different yarns and finishes. Today I do not see many innovations.

Since the times the Italian suppliers practically disappeared, no one really takes this market and its product study as it should be. The real innovations, I feel, are amiss. 

Q. – You have a long experience in denim fabric structures and compositions. Do you want to highlight anything important for the same?

A.- To have interesting, saleable, and usable structures mills need to use a higher number of shafts as possible with rapier looms. Normally all denim makers work max with 8 shafts. We could take as an example the geometrical shirting type of designs reported in denim. I always see too many ugly structures.

Again, mills should work on new yarns and versatile looms to bring out good designs.

Q.- Brands are also looking to differentiate themselves among their fabric suppliers based on their own requirements. How important is this for suppliers?

Brands are also looking to differentiate among their fabric suppliers, based on their own requirements. Can you share some examples which show how their respective functioning and requirements are different?

A. – I always believed, through my experience, that SUPPLIERS should differentiate themself, finding the “hot spot”, as, what their CLIENTS would like to buy.

When I started my career in Italy, we did create tendencies of FABRICS which were almost never asked by clients. We worked mainly with Brands. Then the huge retailers arrived, with their price requirements, quality, ultra-fixed deliveries, penalties, etc. The game changed.

We need as fabrics makers to work more and better in developing what we are good at. From raw materials to yarns, to fabrics, finishes, and presentation, all must be reseen, thinking about better margins through new products, new researches, that will allow suppliers to get and keep retailers vivid interest, that brings better sales of what is considered Basics Fabrics as well.

Q.- What trends do you see in both flats and denim in the next 2 years? 

A. Flats can and will gain a lot if they let us work…and it is easier than designing garments.

Covid itself calls more to the protections of nylon or other technical fiber, but even 100% cotton can have a gore-tex Infinium coating, as an example.

Denim unless we build mills with relatively more versatile looms and use more finishes, I cannot see huge progress in the long run. Kids live different lives everywhere, they don’t even know most of the huge denim brands still around that were big in the 90′, after that it has been big retailers, but not much of brands.

Q.- Since you have worked with so many mills and brands, what do you think is the key today for mills to get more traction with buyers  

Ideas, the world is itself improving through ideas.

We don’t need to talk about Leonardo da Vinci or Mr.Bezos…but all improve with new ideas, and in textile fabrics, ideas are made of raw material, yarns types, structure and finishes, simple or more inclusive waxing or coating, as mechanical as all types of brushing, preaching, etc.

I would focus on getting the interest of clients first to my product range, which involves sustainable processes as a standard, but i would count on developing novelties in tight cooperation with clients’ designers,using the experience of fabrics we hold,in order to follow clients in a commercial way.

To connect with Andrea, use this email address

Circularity has been discussed by Dame Ellen MacArthur since 2010, although the concept has only lately gained popularity. After retiring from sailing 12 years ago- MacArthur being the first woman to solo around the globe- she founded the Ellen MacArthur Foundation to bring together the worlds of business, education, fashion, agriculture, and beyond to conceive a dramatic transformation to a “circular economy.” A circular economy, in contrast to our existing linear concept of creation, consumption, and disposal, entails reducing waste, keeping items in circulation, and renewing nature.

MacArthur launched the book on the 2nd of December, 2021, at Business of Fashion VOICES. Circular Design for Fashion was created in honor of fashion’s enormous potential to change to a circular economy, as well as its creatives – enthusiastic disruptors who are always looking for new ways to innovate. The book introduces a new design approach and inspires designers to think about how they might help shape a more resilient and successful fashion sector that addresses climate change and biodiversity loss. Investigate the challenges of creating with three concepts in mind: reducing waste and pollution, cycling products and resources, and renewing nature. The book presents an assorted mix of voices, well-known names like Stella McCartney, Gabriela Hearst, and Eileen Fisher, as well as upcoming designers like Bethany Williams and Duran Lantink, upcycling professionals like ADIFF’s Angela Luna and Loulwa Al Saad, regenerative agriculture assets like Fibershed and FarFarm, Gucci and its parent company Kering, and some of the industry’s most successful corporations like Inditex, Fast Retailing, and H&M.

SUBSISTENCE BY CIRCULAR DESIGN

Many firms and designers in the fashion field have begun to take initiatives to remove waste and pollution from their product lifecycles in recent years. Elodie Rousselot, the strategic design manager at Ellen MacArthur Foundation says, “I think we’re witnessing a beautiful moment in the industry, where many are actively looking at how they can change their businesses and the way they design products to be fit for the circular economy.” The goal of circular design is to create goods and services that don’t have a linear life cycle with a beginning, middle, and conclusion. The goal is to create goods that can “be produced to be made again,” as ex- CEO of IDEO, Tim Brown phrased it.

The move to a circular economy (CE) presents designers with a variety of new issues and necessitates particular knowledge, tactics, and methodologies. The CE idea broadens the scope of the design process and encourages the incorporation of new knowledge domains and abilities. Throughout all phases of the design process, substantial engagement with stakeholders and specialists is required for the CE to be implemented successfully in reality. Design firms have responded to the CE by forming dedicated CE research and design workgroups, facilitating information flow, constructing their own circular strategies and techniques, and pursuing long-term client relationships that encourage designers to become involved in the lifecycles of crafted artifacts rather than viewing design projects as one-time events. Many designers have taken the initiative too. Amongst such designers are the six contributors, highlighted by Rousselot in MacArthur’s book, who are at the forefront of the movement towards the circular fashion industry.

ORANGE CUTURE BY ADEBAYO OKE-LAWAL

Adebayo Oke-Lawal creates gender-neutral clothing with a 90 percent indigenous Nigerian supply chain that includes everything from material procurement to dyeing and printing. The designer tries to guarantee that money stays in the community through his Lagos-based label Orange Culture, while also training his suppliers and staff about sustainable manufacturing processes so that they may apply what they’ve learned to other initiatives.

“They’ve also begun encouraging shoppers to return undesired clothing so that it may be turned into new outfits and sold again. It’s more than just a repair service. It’s almost as though the clothing had a new narrative to tell.” Rousselot said, “Orange Culture uses the offcuts from its manufacturing process to form new products or elements such as lining.”

RAEBURN BY CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

Whilst pursuing fashion design in London in the early 2000s, Christopher Raeburn began working with excess fabrics and clothes, purchasing unworn military coats from the 1950s for £1 apiece and reworking them into new outfits. Since then, he’s pushed to expand the use of reused materials in mass production with his own British Fashion Award-winning label Raeburn, along with switching ‘Timberland’ to regeneratively cultivated leather as creative director for the footwear company.

“He was one of the first to bring this practice to a commercial scale, in a way that is attractive and different from what you would expect from an ‘eco brand,” Rousselot said.

ICICLE BY YE SHOUZENG AND TAO XIAOMA

Icicle, a Chinese company founded in 1997 by husband-and-wife team Ye Shouzeng and Tao Xiaoma, uses five primary materials – cashmere, linen, wool, silk, and cotton – that is sustainably sourced and lightly treated to preserve the attention on the fibers’ inherent beauty. To maintain transparency and protect the welfare of garment workers, the company does all of its design and manufacture in-house at its own facilities.

Rousselot quotes about the innovative couple- “They are bringing this different perspective to a circular design, which is based on traditional Chinese philosophy and runs counter to the Western idea that we’re born, we die and then that’s it”

MARINE SERRE

Aside from her signature crescent moon motif, French designer Marine Serre is recognized for using repurposed materials such as household linens, carpets, and towels in 50% of her designs. Serre’s work, which was awarded the esteemed LVMH prize in 2017 and is distributed by big shops like Selfridges and Browns, demonstrates that waste materials, notwithstanding their nasty reputation, may have a place in the premium fashion industry.

“She’s extremely cutting edge in the way she designs with these textiles,” Rousselot said. “In fashion design, usually what students are taught to do is to define a color palette that will guide their collection and then find the fabrics to match.”

FIBERSHED

Fibershed is a non-profit organization that assists businesses in gaining access to hyper-local textile supply chains by employing regenerative agricultural techniques that retain carbon in the soil rather than releasing it. Designer Phoebe English recently produced a line of outfits for the COP26 climate conference in conjunction with its regional arm in South East England, for which all fabrics were farmed, dyed, spun, and processed within a 250-kilometer radius of her London studio.

Rousselot quotes- “This approach means you are not growing hectares of cotton, you’re growing different types of crops that naturally thrive in the area such as nettle or hemp.”

NKWO BY NKWO ONWUKA

Nkwo Onwuka, a British-Nigerian designer, created Dakala, a new African textile that looks like hand-loomed fabric but is manufactured by stripping and putting together discarded denim pieces. She currently instructs indigenous women in Abuja to use their traditional textile crafts abilities to manufacture new garments from the heaps of garment trash transported to Nigeria from western nations, with the goal of “weaving waste into prosperity.”

“She’s also started looking at sourcing cotton locally,” Rousselot explained. “Nigeria doesn’t grow a lot of cottons but unlike in Kyrgyzstan, where it’s a cause of desertification, in Nigeria, it can grow rain-fed so it doesn’t require extra irrigation.”

CIRCULAR FASHION: THE CURRENT SCENARIO

The circular fashion industry is being embraced by more than just independent or eco-friendly apparel manufacturers. 64 of the world’s largest fashion brands, including Adidas and Inditex, inked a pledge in January 2018 to speed the transition to a circular business model. Adidas, for example, decided to address the issue of materials by gradually implementing a 3-Step Loop Strategy, in which Step 1 is to use recycled materials, Step 2 is to make those recycled materials part of a loop that can be reused, and Step 3 is to bio-fabricate the materials of the future so that when they come out of the loop, they are biodegradable and can be returned to nature without endangering it.

Denim is a wardrobe must for millions of individuals all over the world. The manufacture of a single pair of jeans in traditional way consumes 3,781 liters of water, which is a fact that the majority are unaware of. However, of late, we have seen that Ellen MacArthur foundation and other initiatives in the industry have ensured that the industry moves firmly in the direction of circularity and we hope to see huge changes very soon.

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation had created The Jeans Redesign, a set of recommendations aimed at encouraging the denim industry to embrace the circular economy more effectively. Hundreds of companies have already signed on and committed their support. Among them are Gap, H&M, Wrangler, and a many other well-known brands. In June 2021, the first redesigned jeans utilizing the criteria was finished, proving that circular jeans may be made now.

IMPORTANCE OF CIRCULAR FASHION ON PLANET

“Cradle to Cradle is like good gardening; it is not about “saving” the planet but about learning to thrive on it,” a quote by Michael Braungart says it all. The contemporary industrial infrastructure’s design goal is to provide an appealing product that is inexpensive, complies with rules, performs well enough, and lasts long enough to fulfil market expectations. With a projected worldwide population of nine billion people by 2030, nature will face unprecedented challenges in meeting human demands. The purpose of circular fashion is to guarantee that clothing is manufactured from safe and renewable materials, that innovative business models increase its usage, and that old clothing is reused. We want to see the garment industry progress to a future where every material is securely used and reused, ecosystems are protected, and people have meaningful jobs. This is the circular fashion philosophy, as well as why it is so vital.

Clothes are an outward manifestation of our personality, and while variety is important, we should be more careful of how much we really need.

AEO COMPLETES QUITE LOGISTICS ACQUISITION

Quiet Logistics has been bought by American Eagle Outfitters for a total of 360 million dollars. The deal was initially revealed in November, and it would give the fashion giant more control over its supply chain. In Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, Dallas, St. Louis, and Jacksonville, the logistics company maintains a network of fulfillment facilities that use cutting-edge technologies, including robotics. Quiet Logistics, which will be an American Eagle wholly-owned subsidiary, will continue to operate independently. According to AEO, the network will support the retailer’s future expansion while also creating economies of scale as it expands its customers to include more brands and retailers looking for advanced logistical capabilities.

“I am thrilled to officially welcome Quiet Logistics into the American Eagle Outfitters Inc. portfolio, cementing a collaborative partnership that has meaningfully contributed to our financial results over the past 18 months.” said Jay Schottenstein, executive chairman and CEO, American Eagle Outfitters. 

INDITEX MAKES A €238 MILLION INVESTMENT IN THE NEW ZARA HEADQUARTERS

Zara has invested 238 million euros on a new headquarters within Inditex’s Arteixo complex, which will house the Zara sales and design teams. Construction on the new headquarters will begin in January, assuming all necessary approvals, and will take around two years. The new facilities are intended to reinforce the horizontal work dynamics among designers, patternmakers, and sales professionals, which are backed by creativity and articulated around open collaboration and communication. They are being designed with a focus on their lines, broad open spaces, energy efficiency, and sustainability credentials. The new five-story building (with two additional basement parking levels) will match the visual character of the nearby offices, which hold the zara.com operations.

The new headquarter will be equipped with a next-generation facility management system that will ensure that all of its components work together in perfect harmony at all times, responding to changes in interior and outdoor temperatures and air quality. In the spirit of sustainability, the impact of the construction process will be reduced by employing technology during the design phase.

 M&S EXPANDS ITS SPORTSWEAR BRAND GOODMOVE AS ACTIVEWEAR SALES BOOST

With a new January campaign, Marks & Spencer has unveiled the SS22 range of its athletic brand Goodmove. New developments in the Goodmove line, which is endorsed by guest brand Speedo, include front-adjustable sports bras. The campaign will run throughout the whole month of January, with the goal of capturing customers’ health and wellness mindsets. M&S Family Matters data supports this, indicating that customers are contemplating significant lifestyle adjustments in early 2022. According to the survey, 64 percent of respondents want to take their health more seriously than previously, and 63 percent want to exercise more. Goodmove has evolved to be the company’s largest in-house brand, with 275 items in womenswear, menswear, and kidswear. Every year, the shop sells 1.6 million Goodmove goods, with activewear becoming a major focus.

“Shaping the future of M&S clothing means continuing to maximise the strength of our own brand product: consistently focusing on everyday style & value, heroing product categories that matter most to our customers and developing our unique in-house brands. Goodmove is our biggest own brand, a credible competitor in the growing activewear market and a truly relevant offer for our customers. With health and wellness more important than ever for our customers, we’re starting 2022 with a bold campaign for Goodmove that highlights both the trusted value of the product and the important innovations within the range.” said Richard Price, MD M&S.

H&M AND FOTOGRAFISKA JOINED FORCES TO PROMOTE TEXTILE SUSTAINABILITY

Sweden’s non-profit H&M Foundation and famed photography gallery Fotografiska have teamed together to inspire action in support of the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals through the power of visual communication. It will look at what a planet-friendly fashion sector may look like, as well as how to speed up the development of inclusive communities. The two-year project begins with Tobias Gremmler, a visual artist and multimedia pioneer, and his show The Changing Room at Fotografiska Stockholm. The artist leads Fotografiska’s guests on a trip to imagine a world where clothing may grow directly on human skin through a variety of imaginative notions in a scenographic media exhibition.

In the 3D inspiration room ‘The Future is Here’, seven examples of planet-friendly solutions that may revolutionise the fashion industry are shown to further raise awareness about how innovation can drive transformation. According to a press release from H&M, this online tour allows anybody to learn more about these concepts from the comfort of their own home.

PATAGONIA SHUTS THEIR STORES AND OFFICES FROM CHRISTMAS TILL NEW YEAR

Leading US outdoor apparel and gear company Patagonia has announced the shutdown of its shops, offices, and warehouses in the United States and Canada for the whole week of Christmas and New Year. While the goal is to give all of the company’s employees a much-needed vacation, the decision is remarkable since staff will apparently be paid time off during this time. While the website will remain online, shipments will be delayed until after the holiday week, according to the brand.

Though it is uncertain how many funds Patagonia would lose by closing its shops, offices, and warehouses, the company earned 60% more sales in a December week in 2020 than it did in any of the previous 11 months. It was significantly greater for clothes businesses, at 85 percent and higher. At a time when Patagonia’s workers are struggling on a social and economic level, the action reaffirms the company’s concept that it doesn’t simply talk the talk when it comes to people and the environment; it always does the walk.

EUROPEAN E-RETAILER ZALANDO ANNOUNCES A NEW MANAGEMENT BOARD

Zalando has announced a new management board setup, which will take effect on March 1, 2022. David Schröder, the company’s chief financial officer, will take on the newly established job of chief operating officer (COO), which will be responsible for establishing and growing Zalando’s distinctive skills in order to support the company’s development. Dr Sandra Dembeck has been named new chief financial officer (CFO) by the Zalando supervisory board, and she will be in charge of the finance and group governance teams. According to a press release, the changes align the setup with Zalando’s future needs in furthering its strategic agenda of being the Starting Point for Fashion and growing the business to more than €30 billion in Gross Merchandise Volume by 2025, as laid out at its Capital Market Days in 2019 and 2021.

Zalando is continuing to focus on three strategic dimensions: expanding its active customer base and enhancing customer connections, accelerating the shift to a platform business, and developing a sustainable platform with a net-positive impact on people and the environment.

COTTON PRODUCTION LIKELY TO GROW OVER 350 LAKH BALES, AS PER INDIAN COTTON FEDERATION

The Indian Cotton Federation (ICF) predicts that India’s cotton production would exceed 350 lakh bales during the cotton season 2021-22 (October to September). According to J.Thulasidharan, President, ICF , the rise in the minimum support price (MSP) has encouraged farmers and helped preserve the area under cotton. It has also encouraged farmers to implement improved crop management methods. Simultaneously, demand for exports was strong as well. At the Federation’s annual meeting, the office-bearers elected new officers, including  J. Thulasidharan (President), P. Natraj and Adhitya Krishna Pathy (Vice-Presidents), and Nishant Asher (Secretary).

J. Thulasidharan also emphasised the need of addressing concerns such as fibre quality, correct grading, improved seed, and measures to achieve higher output. He went on to say that the next revolution will only come through increased yield. With the appropriate measures, Indian farmers may achieve a 1,000 kg output, which should be a priority for all stakeholders.

LEE JEANS LAUNCHES THEIR NEW VIRTUAL STORE

Lee Jeans has unveiled its first virtual store, allowing buyers to visit its Europe flagship in Antwerp and learn more about the brand’s ‘For A World That Works’ (FWTW) sustainability initiative. Consumers may browse an interactive three-dimensional retail area, exploring things in a store setting before effortlessly adding purchases to their purchasing basket, in the virtual store. The goal of digital shopping is to offer a real-world experience without the stress that often comes with in-person purchasing. The immersive experience also allows Lee to highlight its FWTW sustainability platform through a series of interactive buttons and movies that highlight innovations and activities geared to lessen the effect on people and the environment.

The virtual store’s navigation has been developed to allow consumers to come in from the street, enter the store, and browse products such as men’s and women’s clothing, as well as the exclusive Lee 101 collection. The virtual store is accessible via the Lee Jeans’ website and social media platforms.

PVH AND ECOVATIVE COLLABORATE ON A SUSTAINABLE FASHION COOPERATIVE

Ecovative has formed an international sustainable fashion cooperative with Bestseller and PVH Corp.  Both Bestseller and PVH Corp. will get first access to Ecovative’s mycelium technologies and will collaborate with the company on the development of mycelium materials for goods and consumer applications. Ecovative has been generating mycelium for a variety of partners across the world, and will offer ForagerT Hides, an alternative leather material, in 2021.

Ecovative’s mycelium produces a ready-to-finish product that is free of plastic scrims and petroleum-based coatings. It is totally comprised of bio-based materials. Designers from Bestseller and PVH Corp., as well as Ecovative’s engineers, will collaborate with Fashion for Good Cooperative members to create, build, and test a research and development plan. Together, the cooperative will develop mycelium materials for the consumer market. “Working directly with fashion brands and tanneries, we make beautiful, high-performing and sustainable materials without harming animals or the planet,” said Gavin McIntyre, Ecovative co-founder and chief business officer.

PATAGONIA TO DONATE PROCEEDS FROM BLACK FRIDAY SALES FOR THE PLANET

US-based clothing brand, Patagonia, received an amazing $10 million in Black Friday sales, five above its own expectations, and will donate every penny to help save the environment as pledged. The high-end outdoor apparel and gear retailer revealed the record-breaking haul, stating that its customers’ “enormous passion” for the environment will benefit hundreds of grassroots environmental organizations worldwide. According to corporate spokeswoman Corley Kenna, the idea for the “fundraiser for the world” originated during an internal brainstorming gathering following the U.S. presidential election. Patagonia was looking for a means to raise awareness about the importance of the environment and climate change.

According to a press release, the funds earned via Patagonia’s Black Friday campaign will benefit grassroots environmental groups, many of which are small, underfunded, and off the radar, who are “working on the front lines to safeguard our air, water, and land for future generations.”

FOREVER 21 ENTERS METAVERSE WITH ROBLOX TO CREATE VIRTUAL FASHION STORES

Forever 21 collaborated with Roblox to create a digital experience. Users will be able to develop, own, and operate their own own business within the game, dubbed the Forever 21 Shop City. Clothing and accessories from Forever 21 will be available for purchase. As players strive to become the top store in the experience, they may hire non-player characters as employees. The experience is a community-focused game that will be accompanied by a number of partnerships. Roblox users @Builder Boy, @Beeism, @OceanOrbsRBX, and @JazzyX3 have collaborated to design an unique apparel collection for Forever 21 Shop City.

The shop will also have stores developed specifically by influencers such as KrystinPlays, Shaylo, and the Sopo Squad. Builders can choose and swap their locations anywhere in the game, perform tasks like stocking inventory and assisting customers, customise the interior, obtain merchandise that Forever 21 has released in its physical stores, and use architectural themes like cottage core and cyber punk for their stores. Obstacle courses, entertainment, a food court, and a yellow carpet will be available in Forever 21 Shop City’s four themed districts.

MARKS & SPENCER APPOINTS DIGITAL PRODUCT CHIEF TO BOOST ITS OMNICHANNEL OPERATIONS

Krista Nordlund, Marks & Spencer’s first chief digital product officer, has been appointed to strengthen the company’s digital capabilities. Nordlund is presently the chief product officer of RentPath, a digital rental marketplace in the United States that she joined in 2016. Her CV also includes posts at consumer-facing companies such as USA Today, Expedia, and US Airways. She will join M&S in January and will be responsible for developing improvements to the company’s app and website in order to improve the consumer experience across all digital touchpoints.

M&S has been undergoing a digital transition in recent years, with the goal of putting digital first rather than just seeing it as an extension of its physical operations. According to the company, this concentration has resulted in tremendous digital growth, as indicated by a 50% rise in app users by 2021. It currently has 14 million members in its redesigned Sparks loyalty programme.

“It’s a great time to be joining M&S as increasing numbers turn to online shopping and the business builds its omnichannel offering. I see a huge opportunity to support the next phase of our transformation by taking the digital experiences we offer customers to the next level.” said Nordlund on her appointment.

BETTER COTTON ALL SET TO REDUCE GHG EMISSIONS 50% BY 2030

World’s largest cotton certifier, Better Cotton has established a target of cutting its cotton’s overall greenhouse gas emissions per ton by half. Better Cotton has sought to make cotton production more sustainable across the world since its foundation in 2009. It has taught over 2.5 million farmers worldwide and raised 99 million euros since 2010, with that figure expected to rise to 125 million euros by the 2021-22 season.

According to recent research, Better Cotton manufacturing has a 19% lower GHG emissions intensity per ton of lint than production in China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan, and Turkey. Better Cotton expects to release four further objectives in 2022, with the target’s deadline set for 2030, based on a 2017 baseline. Soil health, pesticide usage, smallholder livelihoods, and women’s empowerment are all addressed. “This is a pledge for Better Cotton farmers and a stake in the ground for the global cotton sector. Nearly a quarter of the world’s cotton is currently produced under the Better Cotton Standard. We aim to at least double that by 2030.” said CEO of Better Cotton, Alan McClay.

KONTOOR BRANDS ANNOUNCES ITS 2020 SUSTAINABILITY REPORT

Kontoor Brands has presented its sustainability report for 2020. The business, which owns the brands’ Wrangler and Lee, has been devoted to improving its sustainability goal, with this being its second report in the two years since it went public. According to the report, Kontoor has cut its water use by more than 8 billion liters since 2008, and it is on track to save 10 billion liters by 2025.

Kontoor has also obtained 50% of its cotton responsibly, with the goal of utilizing 100% sustainably sourced cotton by 2025. The report also stated that Kontoor is on pace to employ 100 percent preferred chemistry by 2025 and plans to establish a climate target for carbon emissions in 2022. The business emphasized the social aspect of sustainability by establishing community development projects in Bangladeshi factories. The brand has also worked with the Herproject of Business for Social Responsibility, which aims to enhance access to healthcare for Bangladeshi textile workers.

TENCEL COLLABORATES WITH MORE THAN 40 BRANDS TO REDUCE CARBON EMISSIONS

 Sustainable textile manufacturer Tencel has teamed up with over 40 brands, celebrities, and NGOs to launch the #MakeItFeelRight effort to decrease carbon emissions. The movement’s goal is to contribute to the worldwide reforestation effort in order to help rescue the earth, and it has already received over 7,500 pledges. Each commitment results in the planting of a tree.

Sustainable campaigners including Xenia Adonts, Lily Cole, and Chen Ai Ling, as well as businesses like Boyish, Reformation, and Lavender Hill, have endorsed Tencel. The brand also collaborated with artist Bodil Jane to produce promotional artwork, which was subsequently featured on the campaign’s website. “Carbon emissions are a global problem and as such must have global solutions. As a partner of the #MakeItFeelRight campaign we strongly believe that Tencel’s sustainability initiatives, which are enabled by brands and driven by consumers, are a great way to make a positive impact through reforestation,” said Diana Chaplin of One Tree Planted.

INDITEX, ZARA’S OWNER, REVEALS RECORD Q3 SALES AND PROFITS

Zara’s parent company stated record sales and earnings in the 3rd quarter of the year as it recovers from the pandemic. Inditex’s sales in the three months to October 31 were 21% higher than a year ago at constant currency and 10% higher than in 2019. According to the Spanish company, retail and online sales climbed by 33% between November 1 and December 10, 2020, and 10% between November 1 and December 10, 2019. The growth in sales aided the group’s 273 percent gain in net profit to 1.23 billion euros in the third quarter. Meanwhile, online sales increased by 124% in constant currency compared to 2019. According to the group, internet sales would make for more than 25% of total sales in FY2021. “Sales are returning to normal levels, and online sales continue to expand,” the business said of its present finances.

J.C. PENNEY WELCOMES THE EXPANSION OF FOREVER 21 TO 100 STORES

The addition of Forever 21 to JCPenney’s brand portfolio has been announced. The brand will be sold at 100 JCPenney shops around the United States, as well as on the retailer’s website. JCPenney’s reputation as a retailer for teenagers and adults will be strengthened by this action. The introduction of Forever 21 at JCPenney is being supported with a 360-degree marketing effort that includes in-store, e-commerce, social media, and direct mail advertising. The style of Forever 21 is inspired by the West Coast, with neutral and trendy aesthetics interwoven into its design. “Forever 21 and JCPenney share a mission to make the latest trends accessible to all while inspiring unique style and confidence. The addition of this brand to our portfolio rounds out our Young Minded assortment and brings an exciting new element of in-the-moment fashion,” said Michelle Wlazlo, executive vice president and chief merchandising officer at JCPenney.

H&M’S SALES UP BY 11% IN Q4 AS DEMAND SURGES

In local currencies, net sales at H&M Group climbed by 11% in the fourth quarter of 2021 compared to the same period the previous year. In local currency, the company’s net revenues climbed by 12% for the fiscal year 2021, according to a statement. Net sales climbed by 8% to 56,813 million Swedish krona in the fourth quarter, and by 6% to 198,967 million Swedish krona for the entire year when converted to SEK. Despite persistent limitations and the pandemic’s negative impacts, the H&M group’s earnings in local currencies were up to the same level as in the fourth quarter of 2019. Around 100 stores were temporarily shut at the start of the quarter, mostly in Southeast Asia. Around 115 stores were mostly closed at the end of the quarter, predominantly in Austria and Slovakia.

Finding the ultimate pair of jeans may be difficult, so it’s easy to long for the jeans one wore in the past, the ones that appeared to fit perfectly. To give one a new wardrobe staple, denim giant Levi’s brings in the new ’90s 501 jeans which are inspired by the vintage stance, putting us on a nostalgia for the classic Levi’s 501 denim. Levi’s launched a new take on its iconic 501 jeans on December 1, and the brand collaborated with American Model Hailey Bieber to do so.

Hailey Bieber is never hesitant about her passion for all things ’90s-inspired, and in her latest Levi’s campaign, the 25-year-old model shared her perspective on the legendary decade.

“I’ve talked a lot about ’90s silhouettes, ’90s movies, ’90s supermodels, ’90s actors and actresses, and it’s just fascinating to me,” she said in an exclusive interview with Levi’s.

WHAT ONE GETS IN THE NEW 501 JEANS

While the original Levi’s 501 ’90s jeans have never fallen out of style, the new Levi’s 501 ’90s jeans are likely to become a slightly distinct sort of staple this season.

The jean rests just below the waist and has a more relaxed fit through the seat and leg, offering a fashionable yet roomier fit that can be scaled up or down depending on how the customer chooses to wear it. The fit lets people attain a slouchy, laid-back aesthetic without becoming baggy all around. The 501 ’90s jeans come in two washes and sizes ranging from 23 to 34, with inseams of 30′′ and 32′′. Drew Me In, which Hailey appears to be wearing in the campaign pictures, and Mad Love are the two medium washes that have been launched.

“It’s a jean that’s not only physically comfortable but taps into that nostalgia of a jean you loved and wore back in the day,” said Jill Guenza, Levi’s Strauss & Co. vice president of design for women’s apparel. While finishes have been pristine and stonewashed for a long time, Guenza believes it is good to showcase a comeback to well-worn and vintage-inspired jeans.

All of the pairs were made using the brand’s WaterLess technique, which uses up to 96 per cent less water than traditional denim finishing. The Levi’s 501 90s retails for $98-$108. For now, these jeans are only available to buy on the Levi’s App.

THE AD CAMPAIGN

Levi’s has long been a household denim classic, and Hailey Bieber has always been an admirer and face of the brand. Hailey has gladly revealed her go-to pair of the season. In an interview, she earlier stated that she enjoys “a baggier denim fit more than anything.” According to the brand, the new 501 ’90s jeans are almost precisely Hailey’s style.

She fronts a series of studio pictures photographed by Stevie Dance for the campaign. She is dressed in a white tank top and Drew Me In jeans in a medium wash. The shoot is styled by Andrew Mukamal, who has tousled tresses by hairdresser Bryce Scarlett and equally impressive makeup by Nina Park. “It’s cool to look upon an era that you were born into and just draw inspiration”, said Hailey.

Earlier this year, Levi’s celebrated its iconic 501 Originals style with its campaign featuring a diverse group of stars. Hailey Bieber, Naomi Osaka, Barbie Ferreira, and Emma Chamberlain appeared in-studio images captured by Micaiah Carter. Known for its durability, the cast wore 501 Original pieces ranging from jean jackets to casual t-shirts and straight-cut jeans. The brand’s ambassadors showcased their favorite ways to style and wear their 501s. The campaign evoked a spirit of creativity, authenticity, self-expression, and originality.

 “Working with Lee was a perfect pairing for Pendleton. Their authentic American heritage brand echoes Pendleton’s dedication to quality, design and textile innovation,” said Peter Bishop, Pendleton executive vice president of merchandise and design.

The denim range perfectly captures the American outdoor-meets-work wear vibe.

WHAT THE COLLECTION OFFERS

This limited-edition ensemble retraces wardrobe staples from the brands’ 300 years of collective clothing experience. Original Lee silhouettes including the Lee 101 Jean, Union-Alls, and Storm Rider Jacket have been reinterpreted with Pendleton intricate designs. Each heritage pattern has been recreated in completely new colors on fabric made in the United States. Woolen pieces are harnessed as shirting material and can be seen on collars, pockets, and piping. A minimal wool blanket is also contained in the assortment.

The jeans are handcrafted and produced locally in Greensboro, North Carolina, adding to the capsule’s distinctiveness. These designs provide some of the last remaining American selvedge denim from Cone Denim’s White Oak Mill, which closed in 2017. The fabric, which was spun on old Draper shuttle looms that could only generate 100 yards per day, is yet another thread in this capsule’s that ties links with  American textile history. Lee and Pendleton are both wholly accustomed to co-branded endeavors.

The woolen mill has transferred its signature designs to a wide range of items, including Ariat boots, Vans shoes, and Kith loungewear, as well as Hunter ceiling fans and Sunbrella outdoor home accessories. Meanwhile, Lee has increased its collaborative efforts to appeal to a broader range of customers. This year, Lee debuted collaborations with H&M, The Hundreds, and Alife.

As seen by Betty Madden, Lee vice president of global design, Pendleton’s choice of color and patterning has proven to be of great ingenuity for the denim manufacturer.

“Working together is a dream come true. We’ve taken a fresh design approach and incorporated Cone Mills’ selvedge denim to make this collection heirloom quality with stunning craftsmanship. I’m thrilled with this collaboration.” Said Betty Madden, Lee vice president of global design.

THE WHITE OAK SELVEDGE FABRIC

The origins of American selvedge fabric, especially the white oak plant, dates back to 1905. The phrases selvedge denim and self-edge – or self-finished cloth edges – are related. Selvedge denim jeans use the self-edge as a completed seam in the jean construction, particularly along the outseam. Selvedge denim is made using traditional weaving processes. Authentically weaved on antique looms. Selvedge looms were widely used in denim weaving until the mid-to-late-nineteenth century. As global demand for denim increased, US mills began updating their gear to increase production speed, rendering selvedge looms obsolete. Older selvedge looms were slower and produced less consistently. With the demand for denim workwear skyrocketing in the United States. Moses and Ceasar Cone were noted for producing selvedge denim on its 3×1 draper looms, for which it became most famous.

Cone’s famous selvedge denim has been created in the White Oak facility since it was bought in 1905, and the plant was named after a big oak tree that previously stood in its shade. After decades of increasingly disposable jeans from large manufacturers, customers increasingly learned to value the toughness, longevity, and build quality of denim manufacturers like Cone. Today, selvedge weaving has regained prominence due to the weaving technique’s legacy and the mills that prefer to produce it.

 THE LEE 101 JEANS

The first pair of Lee 101 jeans was crafted in the American Midwest in 1924. A heavy-duty, robust pair of jeans to fulfill the now-legendary Cowboy’s work and leisure needs. The groundbreaking, crisp fit designed in high-quality textiles meant that the 101 became renowned among both weathered lone riders and showmen like rodeo stars. The unique vintage denim is colored and then woven using looms that have been utilized in Japan for the previous 50 years. Back pockets with an S-curve and a spade shape, X-tacks, a hip pocket label, and Lee brand rivets and buttons. Now in the ninth decade of the 101’s existence, Lee intends to launch a line of clothing to commemorate the 101’s historically significant background, proudly displaying the exquisite workmanship and glorifying the pioneering spirit that inspired it.

Men’s and women’s pants, shirts, jackets, and Union-Alls are included in the collection, as is a limited-edition woolen blanket with an exclusive Pendleton stripe design. The collection, which ranges in price from $175 to $400, is available online on Lee’s and Pendleton’s websites. It will also be accessible in select Pendleton stores and local boutiques later this month.

Paris Fashion Week pulled in French icon Charlotte Gainsbourg, as she celebrates her love for denim by collaborating with global denim retailer Zara for a vintage-inspired capsule. When one speaks of Charlotte Gainsbourg, one is referring to the trendiest French figure on the contemporary fashion scene.

Charlotte is following in the footsteps of her mother, Jane Birkin, who was one of the most significant fashion faces of the 1960s and 1970s. Her fresh, easygoing style with charisma has the essence that everyone adores and serves as an enormous source of inspiration. Piloting the ‘effortless chic’ trend, the collection is packed with essentials she wears.

Gainsbourg being raised into good fashion has driven thousands to strive to emulate the realism, freedom, and identity of her style throughout her 50 years. The project stems from her bond with Zara’s Marta Ortega, and it enables her to recognize one of her aspirations. “I’ve always wanted to make a collection out of what I wear every day,” she reveals.

Gainsbourg believes that after years of purchasing and wearing vintage denim, most pairs left something to be needed. Now, at the age of 50, she’s discovered her pinnacle pairs by developing them herself in a joint effort with Zara, which is widely available now.

WHAT CONSTITUTES THE COLLECTION

The soul of the collection is Charlotte’s natural and spontaneous outlook. The silhouette is a scintillating blend of the feminine and masculine. The collection is designed as a limited edition in which the pieces may be worn separately or in combination with other clothing. The ageless and transversal collection unveils and radiates its subtle characteristics . “Zara has understood which are my essentials. I didn’t want there to be too many options. They are garments that make me feel natural,” Charlotte concludes.

Charlotte’s wardrobe has been influenced by denim for years. It also vividly recalls her father’s attire, the renowned musician Serge Gainsbourg. Denim is the exceptional centerpiece of this capsule collection.

The 23-piece women’s capsule collection combines masculine and feminine denim made from both usual and recycled cotton. Key pieces include a slouchy oversized denim jacket in which Charlotte winks at her father’s style, extra-long, relaxed-fit black jeans, and cropped flare jeans in a dark blue wash. To represent the creative’s minimal, daily aesthetic, denim shirting is combined with non-denim necessities such as a triangle bikini top, long-sleeved sweater, and ultra-lightweight T-shirt. It also includes a corduroy trench coat. Accessories like a leather bag, a basic black belt, and a round-toe ankle boot punctuate the design and round off the ever-popular chic look.

She views her Zara edit as “clothes that seem neat while being un-neat.” What it isn’t is the extensive stuff typical of high-caliber collaborations and that’s precisely the purpose. The aim was to produce one or two full looks that ladies could layer in whatever way they wanted.

The assortment features French wardrobe basics based on denim that Charlotte wears on a daily basis in Paris. “I know that I’m not the only one passionate about jeans, but it’s true that I could never find the perfect pair,” Gainsbourg told of the brand in an interview.

 ZARA’S EVIDENT SUSTAINABILITY

Working towards sustainability! is the tagline that the fast-fashion brand has used to describe some of its most significant efforts.

Notably, clothes designated ‘Join Life‘ are manufactured with raw materials and techniques that assist to minimise any negative environmental effect. Furthermore, Zara now intends to guarantee that 50% of its goods fulfill the ‘Join Life’ criteria by 2022. In addition, all bags and boxes will be reused and recycled, and all single-use plastics provided to consumers will be eliminated by 2023.

Furthermore, the clothes in the ‘Join Life’ range are supported with a tag that details the material used in their production, the care necessary to maintain the garment’s quality, and its origin. Its stores have been remodeled to emphasize efficient energy and water use, and zara.com’s servers operate on renewable energy.

The company’s goal is to have 100% of the energy used in its headquarters, logistical centers, and own stores coming from renewable sources by 2022. Zara’s use of European linen and recycled polyester, as well as its production in Morocco and Tunisia, demonstrate Zara’s progress toward achieving its sustainability agenda. With the inclusion of worldwide corporate and consumer initiatives, an essential commitment to eco or recycled materials, and a more thorough information label, the brand is well on its way to fulfilling its vision.

The analysis will be in three parts

1. Countrywise Export Analysis
2. Leading Denim Suppliers
3. Comparative Analysis – March’19 V. March’20

COUNTRY WISE DENIM EXPORTS MARCH 2020

There are 12 major countries where India exported approx 90% out of its total exports. The list primarily included Bangladesh, Egypt, Colombia, and Sri Lanka. Total export from India stood at 14.75 million meters at an average price of $2.15/meter.

In March’20, a major portion of denim was exported to Bangladesh which was approx. 45% and the total export figure stood at 6.63 million meters and it was exported at an average price at $2.36/m. The 2nd major country where exports were made was Colombia which had a 15% share in the total export in the same month.

The total export made to Egypt was 0.86 million meters at an average price of $1.79/m. Sri Lanka is at #4 and imported 0.49 million meters of denim fabric from India at an average price of $2.98/m which is the most expensive average price paid by any country in March’20.

COMPANY WISE DENIM EXPORTS

So far as the leading denim suppliers are concerned, In the month March’20, the top three denim suppliers were as below:

1. Arvind Denim – Total Denim Exported was 2.83 million meters at an average price of $2.63/m. Total share in export is 19%. Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Turkey and Venezuela are major exporting countries for Arvind.
2. Raymond UCO Denim – Total Denim Exported was 1.61 million meters at an average price of $3.13/m. Total share in export is 11%. Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and Thailand are major exporting countries for Raymond.
3. Jindal Denim – Total Denim Exported was 1.54 million meters at an average price of $1.91/m. Total share in export is 10%. Bangladesh, Chile, Lesotho and Colombia are major exporting countries for Jindal Denim.

Oswal Denim supplied the fabrics at the least average price of $1.68/m and Raymond UCO at the most expensive price of $3.13/m. The leading buyers of Indian Denim Fabric include Armana Group, Ananta Garments, Artistic Designs, Kenpark, Hiradarmani, Refat Garments, Denimach,Tusuka, Kenpark, FGS Denim, CRS Denim Garments, and FJ MAGALHAES LDA.

Denim Export – March’20 V March’19

Compared to the export in March’19, the export in March’20 fell by 31.20% and the reason is pressure on demand globally due to the COVID19 pandemic. Since the stores are closed and all the fresh buying orders are on hold, and hence the raw material’s demand took a toll.

The biggest export destination of Indian denim fabric is Bangladesh where the export fell from 9.52 million meter to 6.63 million meter(-30%), also the average price discounted from $2.59/m to $2.36/m (9%).

Leading Denim Exporters- March’19 V. March’20

So far as the exporters are concerned, Arvind’s export plunged by over 36% which brought down the volume from 4.44 million meters to 2.83 million meters. The average price also discounted more than 8% and fell unto the level of $2.63/m

Average Price – March’20 V. March’19

1.Secret Circus –$1.3 million

This is the pair of denim women all over the world would die for ! . Secret Circus offers denim that is diamond encrusted. The design of the jeans is classic enough, but the clincher here are the 15 high quality large diamonds sewn into the back pockets of the jeans. And diamonds are diamonds, regardless if you wear them as part of your necklace or use them as design for your pants. The jeans were hand-made in Los Angeles and then flown to England to be embellished with the design that includes 15 diamonds cut by London-based diamond firm Duttson Rocks.
Wow !!.

2.Dussault Apparel thrashed denim line-$250,000

Dussault Apparel blew the competition out of the water with their Thrashed Denim Line that clocked in at a quarter million dollars. They look not so attractive but each pair includes 16 one carat rubies, 25 half-carat rubies, 8 half-carat diamonds, and 1,080 grams of 18k white or rose gold. And lots of skulls.

The hand-made process involves washing the jeans 13 times while dying and painting the pants between each wash.

3.Levi Strauss & Co.-$60,000

Jeans get better with age. A Japanese collector took that to heart and bought a Levi’s jeans that date back to the 1880s for $60000 in an auction. The vintage jeans come from the 501 series that Levi’s is known for.

Just how valuable are vintage Levi’s jeans? Two other old jeans, one from the late 1800s and the other from the early 1900s, were purchased for $46 thousand and $36 thousand respectively. Levi’s itself was the buyer of the former. Now these jeans are estimated to be over $1,50,000 .

4.Escada-$10,000

Escada is a brand which makes customized pair of jeans for you. A customer can have jean pant designed according to its wishes. Customer can have some design or embellishment done on it or can prefer regular old faded jeans, hence the prices of jean pants from Escada store starts from $10,000.

5.Apo Jeans-$4,000

APO jeans come with silk pockets and riveting made of gold, silver or platinum. A diamond can also be used as a button. The creator will also ensure that only the finest fabrics are used for your customized denim pair. To ensure authenticity and value, a prestigious jeweller will study, appraise and certify the gemstones included in your jeans.

6.Gucci Jeans-$3,100

Anything which has a name Gucci attached to it becomes fashionable, expensive and elegant. Gucci introduced line of its jean pants in 2010 in fashion show held in Milan. Like other accessories by Gucci the jean pants of Gucci are also expensive and start from $3100.

7.Dolce & Gabbana-$1,200

You need to sign up if you want a pair of these jeans because there is a waiting list of people willing to buy it. The Dolce & Gabbana pair features distressed faded fabric as the material for the denim. It also has embroidered butterfly designs. The back pocket is covered with a pink patch and adorned with a gold logo of the fashion design company.

8.Roberto Cavalli-$1,200

You have probably heard of Roberto Cavalli from watching all those Sex and the City shows . The Roberto Cavalli jeans are well known, and they are very popular among women because a standard pair is usually decorated with different jewels. His shop is located in Madison Avenue in New York City, but you should be prepared to shell out $1,200 if you want a pair that even celebrities adore.

9.Earnest Sewn Custom Fit-$1,000

For a customized pair, Earnest Sewn has definitely pushed the idea of bespoke jeans to new limits. Not only can you ask for a customized design, you can actually ask for a personalized fit. The company will take your actual and exact measurements, thereby ensuring that you will get a perfect fit once it is done.