Circularity has been discussed by Dame Ellen MacArthur since 2010, although the concept has only lately gained popularity. After retiring from sailing 12 years ago- MacArthur being the first woman to solo around the globe- she founded the Ellen MacArthur Foundation to bring together the worlds of business, education, fashion, agriculture, and beyond to conceive a dramatic transformation to a “circular economy.” A circular economy, in contrast to our existing linear concept of creation, consumption, and disposal, entails reducing waste, keeping items in circulation, and renewing nature.

MacArthur launched the book on the 2nd of December, 2021, at Business of Fashion VOICES. Circular Design for Fashion was created in honor of fashion’s enormous potential to change to a circular economy, as well as its creatives – enthusiastic disruptors who are always looking for new ways to innovate. The book introduces a new design approach and inspires designers to think about how they might help shape a more resilient and successful fashion sector that addresses climate change and biodiversity loss. Investigate the challenges of creating with three concepts in mind: reducing waste and pollution, cycling products and resources, and renewing nature. The book presents an assorted mix of voices, well-known names like Stella McCartney, Gabriela Hearst, and Eileen Fisher, as well as upcoming designers like Bethany Williams and Duran Lantink, upcycling professionals like ADIFF’s Angela Luna and Loulwa Al Saad, regenerative agriculture assets like Fibershed and FarFarm, Gucci and its parent company Kering, and some of the industry’s most successful corporations like Inditex, Fast Retailing, and H&M.

SUBSISTENCE BY CIRCULAR DESIGN

Many firms and designers in the fashion field have begun to take initiatives to remove waste and pollution from their product lifecycles in recent years. Elodie Rousselot, the strategic design manager at Ellen MacArthur Foundation says, “I think we’re witnessing a beautiful moment in the industry, where many are actively looking at how they can change their businesses and the way they design products to be fit for the circular economy.” The goal of circular design is to create goods and services that don’t have a linear life cycle with a beginning, middle, and conclusion. The goal is to create goods that can “be produced to be made again,” as ex- CEO of IDEO, Tim Brown phrased it.

The move to a circular economy (CE) presents designers with a variety of new issues and necessitates particular knowledge, tactics, and methodologies. The CE idea broadens the scope of the design process and encourages the incorporation of new knowledge domains and abilities. Throughout all phases of the design process, substantial engagement with stakeholders and specialists is required for the CE to be implemented successfully in reality. Design firms have responded to the CE by forming dedicated CE research and design workgroups, facilitating information flow, constructing their own circular strategies and techniques, and pursuing long-term client relationships that encourage designers to become involved in the lifecycles of crafted artifacts rather than viewing design projects as one-time events. Many designers have taken the initiative too. Amongst such designers are the six contributors, highlighted by Rousselot in MacArthur’s book, who are at the forefront of the movement towards the circular fashion industry.

ORANGE CUTURE BY ADEBAYO OKE-LAWAL

Adebayo Oke-Lawal creates gender-neutral clothing with a 90 percent indigenous Nigerian supply chain that includes everything from material procurement to dyeing and printing. The designer tries to guarantee that money stays in the community through his Lagos-based label Orange Culture, while also training his suppliers and staff about sustainable manufacturing processes so that they may apply what they’ve learned to other initiatives.

“They’ve also begun encouraging shoppers to return undesired clothing so that it may be turned into new outfits and sold again. It’s more than just a repair service. It’s almost as though the clothing had a new narrative to tell.” Rousselot said, “Orange Culture uses the offcuts from its manufacturing process to form new products or elements such as lining.”

RAEBURN BY CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN

Whilst pursuing fashion design in London in the early 2000s, Christopher Raeburn began working with excess fabrics and clothes, purchasing unworn military coats from the 1950s for £1 apiece and reworking them into new outfits. Since then, he’s pushed to expand the use of reused materials in mass production with his own British Fashion Award-winning label Raeburn, along with switching ‘Timberland’ to regeneratively cultivated leather as creative director for the footwear company.

“He was one of the first to bring this practice to a commercial scale, in a way that is attractive and different from what you would expect from an ‘eco brand,” Rousselot said.

ICICLE BY YE SHOUZENG AND TAO XIAOMA

Icicle, a Chinese company founded in 1997 by husband-and-wife team Ye Shouzeng and Tao Xiaoma, uses five primary materials – cashmere, linen, wool, silk, and cotton – that is sustainably sourced and lightly treated to preserve the attention on the fibers’ inherent beauty. To maintain transparency and protect the welfare of garment workers, the company does all of its design and manufacture in-house at its own facilities.

Rousselot quotes about the innovative couple- “They are bringing this different perspective to a circular design, which is based on traditional Chinese philosophy and runs counter to the Western idea that we’re born, we die and then that’s it”

MARINE SERRE

Aside from her signature crescent moon motif, French designer Marine Serre is recognized for using repurposed materials such as household linens, carpets, and towels in 50% of her designs. Serre’s work, which was awarded the esteemed LVMH prize in 2017 and is distributed by big shops like Selfridges and Browns, demonstrates that waste materials, notwithstanding their nasty reputation, may have a place in the premium fashion industry.

“She’s extremely cutting edge in the way she designs with these textiles,” Rousselot said. “In fashion design, usually what students are taught to do is to define a color palette that will guide their collection and then find the fabrics to match.”

FIBERSHED

Fibershed is a non-profit organization that assists businesses in gaining access to hyper-local textile supply chains by employing regenerative agricultural techniques that retain carbon in the soil rather than releasing it. Designer Phoebe English recently produced a line of outfits for the COP26 climate conference in conjunction with its regional arm in South East England, for which all fabrics were farmed, dyed, spun, and processed within a 250-kilometer radius of her London studio.

Rousselot quotes- “This approach means you are not growing hectares of cotton, you’re growing different types of crops that naturally thrive in the area such as nettle or hemp.”

NKWO BY NKWO ONWUKA

Nkwo Onwuka, a British-Nigerian designer, created Dakala, a new African textile that looks like hand-loomed fabric but is manufactured by stripping and putting together discarded denim pieces. She currently instructs indigenous women in Abuja to use their traditional textile crafts abilities to manufacture new garments from the heaps of garment trash transported to Nigeria from western nations, with the goal of “weaving waste into prosperity.”

“She’s also started looking at sourcing cotton locally,” Rousselot explained. “Nigeria doesn’t grow a lot of cottons but unlike in Kyrgyzstan, where it’s a cause of desertification, in Nigeria, it can grow rain-fed so it doesn’t require extra irrigation.”

CIRCULAR FASHION: THE CURRENT SCENARIO

The circular fashion industry is being embraced by more than just independent or eco-friendly apparel manufacturers. 64 of the world’s largest fashion brands, including Adidas and Inditex, inked a pledge in January 2018 to speed the transition to a circular business model. Adidas, for example, decided to address the issue of materials by gradually implementing a 3-Step Loop Strategy, in which Step 1 is to use recycled materials, Step 2 is to make those recycled materials part of a loop that can be reused, and Step 3 is to bio-fabricate the materials of the future so that when they come out of the loop, they are biodegradable and can be returned to nature without endangering it.

Denim is a wardrobe must for millions of individuals all over the world. The manufacture of a single pair of jeans in traditional way consumes 3,781 liters of water, which is a fact that the majority are unaware of. However, of late, we have seen that Ellen MacArthur foundation and other initiatives in the industry have ensured that the industry moves firmly in the direction of circularity and we hope to see huge changes very soon.

The Ellen MacArthur Foundation had created The Jeans Redesign, a set of recommendations aimed at encouraging the denim industry to embrace the circular economy more effectively. Hundreds of companies have already signed on and committed their support. Among them are Gap, H&M, Wrangler, and a many other well-known brands. In June 2021, the first redesigned jeans utilizing the criteria was finished, proving that circular jeans may be made now.

IMPORTANCE OF CIRCULAR FASHION ON PLANET

“Cradle to Cradle is like good gardening; it is not about “saving” the planet but about learning to thrive on it,” a quote by Michael Braungart says it all. The contemporary industrial infrastructure’s design goal is to provide an appealing product that is inexpensive, complies with rules, performs well enough, and lasts long enough to fulfil market expectations. With a projected worldwide population of nine billion people by 2030, nature will face unprecedented challenges in meeting human demands. The purpose of circular fashion is to guarantee that clothing is manufactured from safe and renewable materials, that innovative business models increase its usage, and that old clothing is reused. We want to see the garment industry progress to a future where every material is securely used and reused, ecosystems are protected, and people have meaningful jobs. This is the circular fashion philosophy, as well as why it is so vital.

Clothes are an outward manifestation of our personality, and while variety is important, we should be more careful of how much we really need.

AEO COMPLETES QUITE LOGISTICS ACQUISITION

Quiet Logistics has been bought by American Eagle Outfitters for a total of 360 million dollars. The deal was initially revealed in November, and it would give the fashion giant more control over its supply chain. In Boston, Chicago, Los Angeles, Dallas, St. Louis, and Jacksonville, the logistics company maintains a network of fulfillment facilities that use cutting-edge technologies, including robotics. Quiet Logistics, which will be an American Eagle wholly-owned subsidiary, will continue to operate independently. According to AEO, the network will support the retailer’s future expansion while also creating economies of scale as it expands its customers to include more brands and retailers looking for advanced logistical capabilities.

“I am thrilled to officially welcome Quiet Logistics into the American Eagle Outfitters Inc. portfolio, cementing a collaborative partnership that has meaningfully contributed to our financial results over the past 18 months.” said Jay Schottenstein, executive chairman and CEO, American Eagle Outfitters. 

INDITEX MAKES A €238 MILLION INVESTMENT IN THE NEW ZARA HEADQUARTERS

Zara has invested 238 million euros on a new headquarters within Inditex’s Arteixo complex, which will house the Zara sales and design teams. Construction on the new headquarters will begin in January, assuming all necessary approvals, and will take around two years. The new facilities are intended to reinforce the horizontal work dynamics among designers, patternmakers, and sales professionals, which are backed by creativity and articulated around open collaboration and communication. They are being designed with a focus on their lines, broad open spaces, energy efficiency, and sustainability credentials. The new five-story building (with two additional basement parking levels) will match the visual character of the nearby offices, which hold the zara.com operations.

The new headquarter will be equipped with a next-generation facility management system that will ensure that all of its components work together in perfect harmony at all times, responding to changes in interior and outdoor temperatures and air quality. In the spirit of sustainability, the impact of the construction process will be reduced by employing technology during the design phase.

 M&S EXPANDS ITS SPORTSWEAR BRAND GOODMOVE AS ACTIVEWEAR SALES BOOST

With a new January campaign, Marks & Spencer has unveiled the SS22 range of its athletic brand Goodmove. New developments in the Goodmove line, which is endorsed by guest brand Speedo, include front-adjustable sports bras. The campaign will run throughout the whole month of January, with the goal of capturing customers’ health and wellness mindsets. M&S Family Matters data supports this, indicating that customers are contemplating significant lifestyle adjustments in early 2022. According to the survey, 64 percent of respondents want to take their health more seriously than previously, and 63 percent want to exercise more. Goodmove has evolved to be the company’s largest in-house brand, with 275 items in womenswear, menswear, and kidswear. Every year, the shop sells 1.6 million Goodmove goods, with activewear becoming a major focus.

“Shaping the future of M&S clothing means continuing to maximise the strength of our own brand product: consistently focusing on everyday style & value, heroing product categories that matter most to our customers and developing our unique in-house brands. Goodmove is our biggest own brand, a credible competitor in the growing activewear market and a truly relevant offer for our customers. With health and wellness more important than ever for our customers, we’re starting 2022 with a bold campaign for Goodmove that highlights both the trusted value of the product and the important innovations within the range.” said Richard Price, MD M&S.

H&M AND FOTOGRAFISKA JOINED FORCES TO PROMOTE TEXTILE SUSTAINABILITY

Sweden’s non-profit H&M Foundation and famed photography gallery Fotografiska have teamed together to inspire action in support of the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals through the power of visual communication. It will look at what a planet-friendly fashion sector may look like, as well as how to speed up the development of inclusive communities. The two-year project begins with Tobias Gremmler, a visual artist and multimedia pioneer, and his show The Changing Room at Fotografiska Stockholm. The artist leads Fotografiska’s guests on a trip to imagine a world where clothing may grow directly on human skin through a variety of imaginative notions in a scenographic media exhibition.

In the 3D inspiration room ‘The Future is Here’, seven examples of planet-friendly solutions that may revolutionise the fashion industry are shown to further raise awareness about how innovation can drive transformation. According to a press release from H&M, this online tour allows anybody to learn more about these concepts from the comfort of their own home.

PATAGONIA SHUTS THEIR STORES AND OFFICES FROM CHRISTMAS TILL NEW YEAR

Leading US outdoor apparel and gear company Patagonia has announced the shutdown of its shops, offices, and warehouses in the United States and Canada for the whole week of Christmas and New Year. While the goal is to give all of the company’s employees a much-needed vacation, the decision is remarkable since staff will apparently be paid time off during this time. While the website will remain online, shipments will be delayed until after the holiday week, according to the brand.

Though it is uncertain how many funds Patagonia would lose by closing its shops, offices, and warehouses, the company earned 60% more sales in a December week in 2020 than it did in any of the previous 11 months. It was significantly greater for clothes businesses, at 85 percent and higher. At a time when Patagonia’s workers are struggling on a social and economic level, the action reaffirms the company’s concept that it doesn’t simply talk the talk when it comes to people and the environment; it always does the walk.

EUROPEAN E-RETAILER ZALANDO ANNOUNCES A NEW MANAGEMENT BOARD

Zalando has announced a new management board setup, which will take effect on March 1, 2022. David Schröder, the company’s chief financial officer, will take on the newly established job of chief operating officer (COO), which will be responsible for establishing and growing Zalando’s distinctive skills in order to support the company’s development. Dr Sandra Dembeck has been named new chief financial officer (CFO) by the Zalando supervisory board, and she will be in charge of the finance and group governance teams. According to a press release, the changes align the setup with Zalando’s future needs in furthering its strategic agenda of being the Starting Point for Fashion and growing the business to more than €30 billion in Gross Merchandise Volume by 2025, as laid out at its Capital Market Days in 2019 and 2021.

Zalando is continuing to focus on three strategic dimensions: expanding its active customer base and enhancing customer connections, accelerating the shift to a platform business, and developing a sustainable platform with a net-positive impact on people and the environment.

COTTON PRODUCTION LIKELY TO GROW OVER 350 LAKH BALES, AS PER INDIAN COTTON FEDERATION

The Indian Cotton Federation (ICF) predicts that India’s cotton production would exceed 350 lakh bales during the cotton season 2021-22 (October to September). According to J.Thulasidharan, President, ICF , the rise in the minimum support price (MSP) has encouraged farmers and helped preserve the area under cotton. It has also encouraged farmers to implement improved crop management methods. Simultaneously, demand for exports was strong as well. At the Federation’s annual meeting, the office-bearers elected new officers, including  J. Thulasidharan (President), P. Natraj and Adhitya Krishna Pathy (Vice-Presidents), and Nishant Asher (Secretary).

J. Thulasidharan also emphasised the need of addressing concerns such as fibre quality, correct grading, improved seed, and measures to achieve higher output. He went on to say that the next revolution will only come through increased yield. With the appropriate measures, Indian farmers may achieve a 1,000 kg output, which should be a priority for all stakeholders.

LEE JEANS LAUNCHES THEIR NEW VIRTUAL STORE

Lee Jeans has unveiled its first virtual store, allowing buyers to visit its Europe flagship in Antwerp and learn more about the brand’s ‘For A World That Works’ (FWTW) sustainability initiative. Consumers may browse an interactive three-dimensional retail area, exploring things in a store setting before effortlessly adding purchases to their purchasing basket, in the virtual store. The goal of digital shopping is to offer a real-world experience without the stress that often comes with in-person purchasing. The immersive experience also allows Lee to highlight its FWTW sustainability platform through a series of interactive buttons and movies that highlight innovations and activities geared to lessen the effect on people and the environment.

The virtual store’s navigation has been developed to allow consumers to come in from the street, enter the store, and browse products such as men’s and women’s clothing, as well as the exclusive Lee 101 collection. The virtual store is accessible via the Lee Jeans’ website and social media platforms.

PVH AND ECOVATIVE COLLABORATE ON A SUSTAINABLE FASHION COOPERATIVE

Ecovative has formed an international sustainable fashion cooperative with Bestseller and PVH Corp.  Both Bestseller and PVH Corp. will get first access to Ecovative’s mycelium technologies and will collaborate with the company on the development of mycelium materials for goods and consumer applications. Ecovative has been generating mycelium for a variety of partners across the world, and will offer ForagerT Hides, an alternative leather material, in 2021.

Ecovative’s mycelium produces a ready-to-finish product that is free of plastic scrims and petroleum-based coatings. It is totally comprised of bio-based materials. Designers from Bestseller and PVH Corp., as well as Ecovative’s engineers, will collaborate with Fashion for Good Cooperative members to create, build, and test a research and development plan. Together, the cooperative will develop mycelium materials for the consumer market. “Working directly with fashion brands and tanneries, we make beautiful, high-performing and sustainable materials without harming animals or the planet,” said Gavin McIntyre, Ecovative co-founder and chief business officer.

PATAGONIA TO DONATE PROCEEDS FROM BLACK FRIDAY SALES FOR THE PLANET

US-based clothing brand, Patagonia, received an amazing $10 million in Black Friday sales, five above its own expectations, and will donate every penny to help save the environment as pledged. The high-end outdoor apparel and gear retailer revealed the record-breaking haul, stating that its customers’ “enormous passion” for the environment will benefit hundreds of grassroots environmental organizations worldwide. According to corporate spokeswoman Corley Kenna, the idea for the “fundraiser for the world” originated during an internal brainstorming gathering following the U.S. presidential election. Patagonia was looking for a means to raise awareness about the importance of the environment and climate change.

According to a press release, the funds earned via Patagonia’s Black Friday campaign will benefit grassroots environmental groups, many of which are small, underfunded, and off the radar, who are “working on the front lines to safeguard our air, water, and land for future generations.”

FOREVER 21 ENTERS METAVERSE WITH ROBLOX TO CREATE VIRTUAL FASHION STORES

Forever 21 collaborated with Roblox to create a digital experience. Users will be able to develop, own, and operate their own own business within the game, dubbed the Forever 21 Shop City. Clothing and accessories from Forever 21 will be available for purchase. As players strive to become the top store in the experience, they may hire non-player characters as employees. The experience is a community-focused game that will be accompanied by a number of partnerships. Roblox users @Builder Boy, @Beeism, @OceanOrbsRBX, and @JazzyX3 have collaborated to design an unique apparel collection for Forever 21 Shop City.

The shop will also have stores developed specifically by influencers such as KrystinPlays, Shaylo, and the Sopo Squad. Builders can choose and swap their locations anywhere in the game, perform tasks like stocking inventory and assisting customers, customise the interior, obtain merchandise that Forever 21 has released in its physical stores, and use architectural themes like cottage core and cyber punk for their stores. Obstacle courses, entertainment, a food court, and a yellow carpet will be available in Forever 21 Shop City’s four themed districts.

MARKS & SPENCER APPOINTS DIGITAL PRODUCT CHIEF TO BOOST ITS OMNICHANNEL OPERATIONS

Krista Nordlund, Marks & Spencer’s first chief digital product officer, has been appointed to strengthen the company’s digital capabilities. Nordlund is presently the chief product officer of RentPath, a digital rental marketplace in the United States that she joined in 2016. Her CV also includes posts at consumer-facing companies such as USA Today, Expedia, and US Airways. She will join M&S in January and will be responsible for developing improvements to the company’s app and website in order to improve the consumer experience across all digital touchpoints.

M&S has been undergoing a digital transition in recent years, with the goal of putting digital first rather than just seeing it as an extension of its physical operations. According to the company, this concentration has resulted in tremendous digital growth, as indicated by a 50% rise in app users by 2021. It currently has 14 million members in its redesigned Sparks loyalty programme.

“It’s a great time to be joining M&S as increasing numbers turn to online shopping and the business builds its omnichannel offering. I see a huge opportunity to support the next phase of our transformation by taking the digital experiences we offer customers to the next level.” said Nordlund on her appointment.

1. LEVI’S

Levi Strauss & Co. is a global leader in jeanswear and one of the world’s top brand-name apparel companies. This year, the brand launched its “Buy Better, Wear Longer,” Spring 2021 campaign, which raises awareness about shared responsibility and the environmental implications of apparel production and consumption. The introduction of 55% hemp blended fabrics, new natural-dye techniques, the expanded use of organically grown cotton, and the recyclability of every Wellthread garment was inculcated by the brand. Levi’s Wellthread used a technique by which ultrasonic waves are used to apply the dye to the fibre. The brand also used Water< Less techniques which have saved more than 3.5 billion litres of water since they were introduced nearly a decade ago. A few of the company’s central goals for the future are to use 100 per cent of sustainably produced cotton by 2025, its supply chain will have reduced greenhouse gas emissions by 40% and by 2030, water usage in the industry in water-stressed areas will be reduced by half. 

2. NUDIE JEANS

This Swedish denim company delivers and preserves a tradition true to the fabric’s history and attributes by thinking in terms of wear, tear, and repair rather than fast fashion. Teaming up with London-based retailer Browns Fashion, Nudie Jeans has created a collection of 16 denim pieces, all reworked from pre-existing denim. The brand has already repaired 45900 jeans for free and has produced 98.6% Sustainable products. 2021 was the third full year in which it used only certified organic cotton for all the cotton products.

Moreover, according to its Sustainable Material Tool the brand defines a garment or accessory as sustainable when it contains at least 70% sustainable fibres. The brand aims to increase number GOTS-certified denim fabrics to reach 50% of all denim fabrics by 2022 and reach 100% renewable energy sources for electricity used in all Nudie Jeans operated facilities by changing energy subscription or investing in Renewable Energy Certificates by 2023. Nudie Jeans also plans to open 50 new permanent Repair spots, including Repair Shops, Partner stores and Repair partners in the coming years.

3. PANGAIA

 Pangaia is a direct-to-consumer materials science company bringing breakthrough textile innovations and patents into the world through everyday lifestyle products. This year, the brand introduced its sustainable denim PANettle, a mix of naturally regenerating wild Himalayan nettle, organic cotton, and PPRMINT for longer-lasting freshness. To diversify its material sources and lessen reliance on traditional cotton, the company employs wild Himalayan nettle. The denim produced is coloured with state-of-the-art water and dye-saving technologies, and the thread is made entirely of biobased cellulose. Non-galvanized, recyclable stainless-steel buttons are also used in denim. The brand created FRUT FIBER and PLNT FIBER to replace cotton in their product line. The two cellulose fibre blends were successfully produced and supplied by Pangaia from fruit and plant raw material sources.

4. RE/DONE

 Redone is known for reconstructing Levi’s vintage jeans into modern fits, giving a sense of uniqueness and rareness to each consumer. The brand debuted its first collection designed in line with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign project guidelines. All jeans are made of responsibly sourced 100 per cent organic cotton, recycled hardware, and bio-based patches, and include a hangtag with a QR code that provides consumers with a full traceability report documenting the lifecycle of each product. Items are shipped using recycled, oxo-biodegradable poly bags. The manufacturer also uses laser and e-flow technologies for energy- and water-saving washes and uses a three-stage purification system to reduce water waste. Since its launch, Re/Done reports that it has diverted more than 231,000 garments from landfills.

5. EVERLANE

A millennial-favourite DTC clothing brand, Everlane announced a very ambitious sustainability goal: to eliminate virgin plastic from its supply chain, packaging, offices and stores by 2021.  By now, it has successfully removed 90% of all virgin plastics from its supply chain. Following through on its commitment to exclusively using certified-organic cotton by 2023,  the denim brand debuted what it calls its cleanest denim to date.  All items in the Clean range feature 98.5 per cent GOTS-certified organic cotton and 1.5 per cent Roica. Each piece is produced with microplastic-free dyes and recycled trim. It also debuted its Fall/Winter 2021 ad campaign entitled “Get into Denim” to adorn the brand’s collection of organic denim. Everlane is now looking for early-stage entrepreneurs to join the Next Collective, a fellowship program that will provide participants with $20,000 and access to industry leaders in sustainability, fashion, design, business and innovation.

6. MADEWELL

Madewell, which is known for its denim, is an apparel retailer that promotes creativity, diversity, and self-expression. This year, the brand introduced a new part of its website called “Madewell Forever,” which helps customers find a new home for their well-loved jeans, whether they’re clearing out their wardrobe and seeking a new home for them or they’re in the market for a new pair of denim.

Madewell Forever had around 3,000 pairs of secondhand Madewell jeans in a wide range of fits and styles, most of which ranged from $35 to $50. Furthermore, its spring 2021 collection called Summerweight Denim was designed to replace linen as one’s go-to choice for summer bottoms. The fabric is made from a blend of hemp and cotton which is wrinkle-free, moisture-wicking, breathable, and lightweight. The brand aims to source 100% sustainable and virgin-plastic-free fibres for all materials by 2025. It also aims to make more than 90% of its denim fair trade certified. By 2025, the brand strives to do carbon neutral operations entirely.

7. REFORMATION

The cult favourite label, Reformation has been dabbling in denim, through vintage capsules and designer collaborations. Reformation launched their denim collection in collaboration with FibreTrace, which labels fabrics with a unique pigment that can be tracked and validated throughout the garment supply chain. This effort is in line with Reformation’s goal of complete supply chain transparency by 2025.  This year, the brand also signed the 2020 Circularity Fashion System Commitment Letter, with the goal of recirculating 500,000 garments in the next five years and have already been able to reuse or recycle 417,811 garments in 2021 itself.  Reformation also teamed up with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign program to achieve its commitment to transforming the way jeans are produced.

8. OUTLAND DENIM

This Australian denim company gained popularity after Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, wore a pair on her royal tour in Australia in 2018. Measured through third-party Environmental Impact Measurement criteria, 97 per cent of Outland Denim’s washes are categorized as “low impact.” This year, Outland Denim expanded its rigid jeans options, collaborated with fellow Aussie brand Spell on a line of vintage-inspired denim staples, introduced ready-to-wear and celebrated a milestone in its traceability journey, marking 100 per cent traceability of its organic cotton denim. It also updated all-black denim to denim dyed using Saveblack, a process that uses 85 per cent less water compared to conventional dyeing. The company stated that it is targeting net-zero emissions by 2030 through practices, policies and by offsetting those emissions that cannot be reduced. It also commits to make 100% of the Outland Denim range leather-free and prioritise use of Bluesign certified chemicals.

9. MUD JEANS

A sustainable and fair trade certified denim brand based in the Netherlands, Mud Jeans has a business model to sell or rent jeans, at the end of their life and then make old jeans into new ones. It has a design process based on circular production, with the use of materials that are easy to repurpose and recycle. 36 of Mud Jeans’ 40 plus styles are made up of 40% post-consumer recycled cotton which is twice the industry average.

Out of 4000 certified B Corporations worldwide, MUD Jeans is among the 5% B Corps with the highest score in environmental performance. The Dutch fashion brand has also collaborated with Swedish home decor brand Ikea to give textiles a second lease of life, specifically, denim. Its sustainability goals include making 5% of its collection from 100% post-consumer recycled cotton by 2022, implementing traceability QR Code and launching new chemical policies for waste management.

10. FRAME

American fashion brand Frame launched Bio-Degradable jeans in partnership with Candiani made from 100 percent cotton that is 100 percent biodegradable. For its fall/winter 2021, Frame revamped its menswear line with trendy cuts for timeless pairs of washed black and indigo jeans. This year it also launched its circular denim collection under EMF Jeans Redesign Project that included denim pieces made of 100% cotton and post-consumer material.

For FRAME Winter 2021, 63% of the FRAME denim line is projected to be responsibly produced according to its Responsible Wash and Responsible Fabric Initiatives. 40% of the fibers in its Spring and Summer 2021 Collections are made with either recycled or water-saving cellulose fibers. Its future goals include: 75% of FRAME Denim is set to be sustainable by the end of 2022, 90% of FRAME denim is set to be sustainable by the end of 2025. The brand will launch ReFrame in the coming years.

BETTER COTTON ALL SET TO REDUCE GHG EMISSIONS 50% BY 2030

World’s largest cotton certifier, Better Cotton has established a target of cutting its cotton’s overall greenhouse gas emissions per ton by half. Better Cotton has sought to make cotton production more sustainable across the world since its foundation in 2009. It has taught over 2.5 million farmers worldwide and raised 99 million euros since 2010, with that figure expected to rise to 125 million euros by the 2021-22 season.

According to recent research, Better Cotton manufacturing has a 19% lower GHG emissions intensity per ton of lint than production in China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan, and Turkey. Better Cotton expects to release four further objectives in 2022, with the target’s deadline set for 2030, based on a 2017 baseline. Soil health, pesticide usage, smallholder livelihoods, and women’s empowerment are all addressed. “This is a pledge for Better Cotton farmers and a stake in the ground for the global cotton sector. Nearly a quarter of the world’s cotton is currently produced under the Better Cotton Standard. We aim to at least double that by 2030.” said CEO of Better Cotton, Alan McClay.

KONTOOR BRANDS ANNOUNCES ITS 2020 SUSTAINABILITY REPORT

Kontoor Brands has presented its sustainability report for 2020. The business, which owns the brands’ Wrangler and Lee, has been devoted to improving its sustainability goal, with this being its second report in the two years since it went public. According to the report, Kontoor has cut its water use by more than 8 billion liters since 2008, and it is on track to save 10 billion liters by 2025.

Kontoor has also obtained 50% of its cotton responsibly, with the goal of utilizing 100% sustainably sourced cotton by 2025. The report also stated that Kontoor is on pace to employ 100 percent preferred chemistry by 2025 and plans to establish a climate target for carbon emissions in 2022. The business emphasized the social aspect of sustainability by establishing community development projects in Bangladeshi factories. The brand has also worked with the Herproject of Business for Social Responsibility, which aims to enhance access to healthcare for Bangladeshi textile workers.

TENCEL COLLABORATES WITH MORE THAN 40 BRANDS TO REDUCE CARBON EMISSIONS

 Sustainable textile manufacturer Tencel has teamed up with over 40 brands, celebrities, and NGOs to launch the #MakeItFeelRight effort to decrease carbon emissions. The movement’s goal is to contribute to the worldwide reforestation effort in order to help rescue the earth, and it has already received over 7,500 pledges. Each commitment results in the planting of a tree.

Sustainable campaigners including Xenia Adonts, Lily Cole, and Chen Ai Ling, as well as businesses like Boyish, Reformation, and Lavender Hill, have endorsed Tencel. The brand also collaborated with artist Bodil Jane to produce promotional artwork, which was subsequently featured on the campaign’s website. “Carbon emissions are a global problem and as such must have global solutions. As a partner of the #MakeItFeelRight campaign we strongly believe that Tencel’s sustainability initiatives, which are enabled by brands and driven by consumers, are a great way to make a positive impact through reforestation,” said Diana Chaplin of One Tree Planted.

INDITEX, ZARA’S OWNER, REVEALS RECORD Q3 SALES AND PROFITS

Zara’s parent company stated record sales and earnings in the 3rd quarter of the year as it recovers from the pandemic. Inditex’s sales in the three months to October 31 were 21% higher than a year ago at constant currency and 10% higher than in 2019. According to the Spanish company, retail and online sales climbed by 33% between November 1 and December 10, 2020, and 10% between November 1 and December 10, 2019. The growth in sales aided the group’s 273 percent gain in net profit to 1.23 billion euros in the third quarter. Meanwhile, online sales increased by 124% in constant currency compared to 2019. According to the group, internet sales would make for more than 25% of total sales in FY2021. “Sales are returning to normal levels, and online sales continue to expand,” the business said of its present finances.

J.C. PENNEY WELCOMES THE EXPANSION OF FOREVER 21 TO 100 STORES

The addition of Forever 21 to JCPenney’s brand portfolio has been announced. The brand will be sold at 100 JCPenney shops around the United States, as well as on the retailer’s website. JCPenney’s reputation as a retailer for teenagers and adults will be strengthened by this action. The introduction of Forever 21 at JCPenney is being supported with a 360-degree marketing effort that includes in-store, e-commerce, social media, and direct mail advertising. The style of Forever 21 is inspired by the West Coast, with neutral and trendy aesthetics interwoven into its design. “Forever 21 and JCPenney share a mission to make the latest trends accessible to all while inspiring unique style and confidence. The addition of this brand to our portfolio rounds out our Young Minded assortment and brings an exciting new element of in-the-moment fashion,” said Michelle Wlazlo, executive vice president and chief merchandising officer at JCPenney.

H&M’S SALES UP BY 11% IN Q4 AS DEMAND SURGES

In local currencies, net sales at H&M Group climbed by 11% in the fourth quarter of 2021 compared to the same period the previous year. In local currency, the company’s net revenues climbed by 12% for the fiscal year 2021, according to a statement. Net sales climbed by 8% to 56,813 million Swedish krona in the fourth quarter, and by 6% to 198,967 million Swedish krona for the entire year when converted to SEK. Despite persistent limitations and the pandemic’s negative impacts, the H&M group’s earnings in local currencies were up to the same level as in the fourth quarter of 2019. Around 100 stores were temporarily shut at the start of the quarter, mostly in Southeast Asia. Around 115 stores were mostly closed at the end of the quarter, predominantly in Austria and Slovakia.

BETTER COTTON RELEASES ITS FIRST-EVER IMPACT REPORT

Better Cotton has released its first-ever Impact Report, which shares the most recent field-level results (2019-20 cotton season) as well as assesses how licensed Better Cotton farmers in China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan, and Turkey performed on environmental, social, and economic criteria when compared to those who did not participate in the Better Cotton programme. Better Cotton farmers in Tajikistan used 16% less water than Comparison Farmers, Better Cotton farmers in India had 9% higher yields, and Better Cotton farmers in Pakistan used 12% less synthetic insecticide. According to Better Cotton’s study, results are displayed by nation and by sustainability indicator.

While Better Cotton focuses largely on assisting farmers on the ground, the study also takes into account factors such as pesticide, fertilizer, and water consumption, as well as acceptable employment, yields, and earnings. With continual development as a guiding concept for Better Cotton, the paper examined how improving processes and services might have a stronger impact. This includes significant projects such as the traceability workstream and the modification of the Better Cotton principles and standards. “What we all want to see in terms of sustainability is impact. To ensure that we are making a real difference, we gather outcomes data whenever feasible,” said Alia Malik, senior director of Data and Traceability.

BURBERRY PARTNERS WITH MY WARDROBE HQ TO OFFER ITS FIRST-EVER RENTAL AND RESALE SERVICE

As part of the British luxury fashion house’s drive to circular fashion, Burberry has teamed with My Wardrobe HQ to launch a rental and resale platform. According to the new scheme, customers may rent coats, handbags, and accessories from My Wardrobe HQ for up to 14 days. Customers may purchase rented things for a portion of the retail price, with weekly rental costs varying from £41 to £170. Resale prices will vary from £111 for scarves to £750 for trench coats, which retail for £1,990.

Whilst a large percentage of the inventory comes from the legacy brand, the rental catalogue also includes verified gifts from VIP clients and the My Wardrobe HQ community. The agreement will help Smart Works, a UK charity that provides high-quality interview apparel and coaching to disadvantaged jobless women, by donating 40% of the revenues from each sale. The luxury brand has donated products to the charity since 2013. Burberry’s VP of corporate responsibility, Pam Batty, stated that their collaboration with My Wardrobe HQ is complimentary to their larger goal of becoming climate positive by 2040 and supporting the ideals of a circular economy for luxury. Building new collaborations and revaluation solutions, as well as extending reuse, repair, donation, and recycling options, are all part of this.

NIKE, PANTAGONIA AND C&A FACE XINJIANG CLAIMS FOR FORCED LABOUR

A majority of internationally recognized fashion labels, including Nike, C&A and Patagonia, are being filed a lawsuit by the European Center for Constitutional Rights (ECCHR) as being directly or indirectly implicated in the forced labour of the Uyghur community in the Xinjiang province in China. The criminal case, which was filed by Dutch prosecutors with the help of Prakken d’Oliveira Human Rights Lawyers, will look into the corporations’ alleged cooperation in human rights breaches that potentially amount to crimes against humanity.

The Business and Human Rights Resource Centre, a UK and US-registered organization that works to enhance human rights in business and eliminate abuse broke the news of the filing. “Alarming stories regarding torture, re-education camps, and forced labour in China’s Xinjiang region have risen in frequency since 2017,” according to the filing. The companies have suppliers with production facilities in Xinjiang, according to research reports and publicly available supply chain information revealed by the researched brands.” The ECCHR accuses the corporations of “directly or indirectly abetting and benefiting” from Uyghur Muslims’ forced labour in the region, which produces more than a fifth of the world’s cotton. 

ITALY BASED PEUTEREY JOINS THE BLUESIGN SYSTEM AS A PARTNER

Peuterey has joined the Bluesign system, pledging to achieve the most stringent sustainability standards in terms of resource efficiency, environmental impact, workplace health and safety, and consumer protection. The Bluesign Input Stream Management system avoids the usage and release of dangerous chemicals throughout the manufacturing process. The Bluesign system is the most stringent standard for the textile industry, with its comprehensive approach, and adopting it means satisfying these standards without sacrificing product functionality, quality, or design. By producing functional, inclusive, and sustainable clothes that will persist throughout time, the company hopes to contribute to a more egalitarian, fair, and successful society.

“We are thrilled to announce that leading Italian brand Peuterey decided to become a Bluesign System partner, showing their strong commitment to the responsible use of resources, responsible production, and responsible chemistry. We look forward to supporting Peuterey on their quest towards excellence in sustainable fashion,” said Kutay Saritosun, head of marketing and communication, Bluesign. In the spirit of a #betterfuture, Peuterey also pledges to put an end to reckless natural resource use by minimising waste and adhering to the principles of the circular economy. According to a press release from Peuterey, the revolutionary Peuterey Recycle project is a limited edition that creatively rethinks the recovery of vintage materials, bringing scraps, accessories, padding, and textiles back to life ensuring 0 percent waste, 100 percent innovation.

LULULEMON ATHLETICA’S SALES RISE BY 30% IN Q3

Lululemon Athletica Inc. recorded a 30 percent growth in net sales to 1.5 billion dollars in the third quarter, whereas net revenue climbed 28 percent on a constant currency basis. In a statement, the firm stated that net revenue climbed by 28% in North America and 40% overseas. On a constant dollar basis, total comparable sales climbed by 27%. On a constant dollar basis, comparable store sales climbed 32 percent or 31 percent, while direct-to-consumer net revenue increased 23 percent or 21 percent to 586.5 million dollars. Gross profit grew 32% to $829.4 million in the third quarter, while gross margin improved 110 basis points to 57.2 percent.

In the third quarter of 2020, diluted profits per share were 1.44 dollars, up from 1.10 dollars in the previous quarter, and adjusted diluted earnings per share were 1.62 dollars, up from 1.16 dollars. During the third quarter, the brand launched 18 additional company-operated stores, bringing the total number of company-operated stores to 552. “Our third-quarter results demonstrate the ongoing strength of Lululemon and the tremendous growth potential of the business in both the near- and long-term. We are pleased with our early holiday season performance,” said Calvin McDonald, CEO.

INDITEX APPOINTS MARTA ORTEGA AS CHAIRWOMAN, OSCAR GARCIA AS CEO

The Board of Directors of Inditex has confirmed Marta Ortega Pérez’s nomination as chairperson of the Group and a proprietary director, with effect from April 1, 2022. Ricardo Garca Maceiras, who formerly served as general counsel and secretary of the Board, has been named CEO of Inditex, starting immediately. Marta Ortega Pérez has spent the previous 15 years working in various areas of the Group, most notably in the building of Zara’s brand image and fashion proposition, which she will continue to supervise. As general secretary and secretary of the Board, Oscar Garca Maceiras joined the Group in March 2021. In his 20 years of professional experience, he has managed transformation programmes both in the public sector, as a Spanish State Attorney, and in the private sector, at organisations such as Banco Pastor. A Management Committee, made up of executives from several corporate and business areas with a significant track record in the Group, is part of the new organisational structure.

FOR FY21, GAP GENERATES $3.9 BILLION REVENUE IN Q3 

Gap, Inc., reported net sales of $3.9 billion in the third quarter of fiscal 2021. The company’s gross profit climbed to $1.66 billion from $1.62 billion in the third quarter of FY20. The current quarter’s gross margin of 42.1% is the greatest for a third-quarter in decades. Online sales increased by 48% year on year, as the company continues to focus on digital power by making an investment in its e-commerce platform, wisely closing unprofitable stores, and partnering to strengthen in international markets. Old Navy’s net sales went up by 8% year on year compared to the same quarter in 2019, while Gap’s global comparable sales increased by 7% year on year. Similarly, Athleta’s net sales went up by 48% as compared to the third quarter of 2019. During the current quarter of the fiscal year 2021, the company also paid a dividend of $0.12 per share. Reflecting on Q3 FY21 results, the business now forecasts full-year sales growth to be around 20% higher than in FY20.

OWING TO THE UYGHUR PROBE, ZARA REFUSED TO EXTEND ITS FRENCH STORE

Zara has been denied permission to extend a French store due to sustainability concerns and allegations of exploitation of China’s Muslim Uyghur minority. Inditex, the parent company of Zara, said that Zara France will appeal the decision. The decision to deny Zara’s proposal to expand its store came from a local administrative department, according to a representative for the town hall of Bordeaux in southwest France. The decision was based on a French inquiry into Inditex and many other stores’ use of forced Uyghur labour in Xinjiang, according to the spokeswoman. The administrative department is also concerned about the environmental impact of rapid fashion. Inditex has denied using coerced Uyghur labour in their manufacturing process. Zara intends to challenge the national commission’s decision on the retailer’s planning proposal.

PRIMARK TO INVEST €250 MILLION IN STORE EXPANSIONS

Primark plans to invest €250 million in store renovation and the opening of a new distribution centre. The relocation is estimated to generate up to 700 new employment.The investment comprises €60 million for the renovation of its Patrick Street shop in Cork city, as well as another €75 million for the establishment of a new distribution centre in Newbridge, County Kildare. In addition, a €20 million renovation of Primark’s Eyre Square shop in Galway is planned. Notably, Primark, known as Penneys in Ireland, plans to extend its selling area in the nation by roughly 20% over the next ten years. Furthermore, the apparel retailer intends to increase its entire staff in Ireland by 12% over the next three years, including over 600 retail roles. In addition, it plans to hire 100 more employees in the next six months at its headquarters, Arthur Ryan House. The new positions will be in a variety of sectors, including technology, buying, retail, design, finance, and others.

PACSUN IS SET TO RELEASE THE FIRST NFT

Pacsun has announced the official launch of its first NFT. Pacsun’s NFT will be an exclusive animation of its original logo, capitalising on the digital trend that appears to have infected the fashion industry as a whole. The auction has begun at 0.1087 ETH, or $515.35 USD. Pacsun will give 100% of the earnings from the purchase of the NFT to the Fashion Scholarship Fund in honour of the brand’s 40th anniversary. Every year, the foundation grants over a million dollars in scholarships to brilliant young students from varied backgrounds in order to help them flourish in the fashion business. Pacsun has entered the digital art realm with labels such as Dolce & Gabbana, Jimmy Choo, and, most recently, JW Anderson, which plans to offer its iconic Harry Styles approved knit sweater in NFT form.

ABERCROMBIE & FRITCH’S DOMESTIC SALES FULED REVENUE GROWTH IN Q3

Abercrombie & Fitch Co. announced third-quarter net sales of $905.2 million on Tuesday, up 10% from $819.7 million the year before, boosted by a 17 percent rise in the United States, the company’s largest market. The company’s net sales in the United States for the third quarter ended October 30, 2021, were $654.9 million, up from $557.8 million the previous year. Abercrombie & Fitch Co.’s overall Q3 net sales grew 5% compared to the pre-Covid-19 third quarter of 2019 when revenues were $863.5 million. Digital sales for the quarter were $413 million, up 8% year over year and 55% when compared to the same time two years ago. The company’s quarterly net income was $47.2 million, or $0.77 per diluted share, compared to $42.3 million, or $0.66 per diluted share, in the third quarter of 2020. Abercrombie & Fitch generated net profits of $197.5 million, or $3.10 per diluted share, for the first half of the year, compared to a loss of $196.4 million, or $3.14 per diluted share, for the same period the previous year. Net sales for the nine-month were $2.55 billion, up 27% from $2.00 billion the previous year.  
“We were very pleased with our third-quarter results,” said Abercrombie & Fitch CEO Fran Horowitz in a release.

M&S BOOSTS BRAND OWNERSHIP, ACQUIRES SHARE ON NOBODY’S CHILD

M&S is all set to increase its market offering, and its most recent step is to purchase a 25% stake in Nobody’s Child for an undisclosed figure. The retail giant, which launched the label to its offering last year, appears to be satisfied with the outcomes of the collaboration, stating that “after a great first year of working together,” it is “developing its engagement” with the company. The most popular product category with M&S consumers has been the selection of midi dresses, with dresses accounting for 12% of Nobody’s Child purchases placed on M&S.com to far. The store stated that the “eco-conscious, affordable” brand will continue to operate autonomously, “but with the ability to build the business using M&S’s investment and infrastructure.” M&S will profit greatly from Nobody’s Child’s agility, including the brand’s focus on near-sourcing supply, which has previously been highlighted as a growth prospect, in addition to being an exciting investment opportunity.“Nobody’s Child was the first brand to launch on M&S.com and has proved incredibly popular with new and existing M&S customers, said Richard Price, MD, M&S Clothing and Home.

CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS IN JAPAN OPT TO CEASE ZINJIANG COTTON

Garment manufacturers all around the world have been vocal in their opposition to cotton grown in China’s western Xinjiang region, and now Japanese apparel manufacturers are following suit. According to Nikkei Asia, a renowned Japanese financial daily, Japanese clothing makers, including Sanyo Shokai and TSI Holdings, have chosen to discontinue using Xinjiang cotton, following in the footsteps of Mizuno, a major sports equipment and sportswear firm, and others. Sanyo Shokai, which distributes garments under the Paul Stuart, Epoca, and Mackintosh Philosophy labels, will discontinue the use of Xinjiang cotton in the spring/summer of 2022. Shinji Oe, President of Sanyo Shokai, stated that the corporation has acquired information on human rights violations in Xinjiang but has been unable to verify the facts. It’s also evident that Fast Retailing, the company behind the Uniqlo casual clothesline, has set up a mechanism to monitor the manufacturing of the commodities it uses, including cotton, for suspected human rights breaches and other ethical issues. To ensure ethical manufacturing, Tadashi Yanai, the company’s chairman, and CEO, has committed to “achieve high levels of traceability” across the supply chain, down to cotton farmers.

GOOGLE UNVEILS THE GLOBAL FIBRE IMPACT EXPLORER (GFIE) TOOL FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN

Google is collaborating with Stella McCartney, The Textile Exchange, and the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) on the Global Fibre Impact Explorer (GFIE) tool to assist the fashion industry to become more sustainable. The tool is designed to assist companies in understanding the environmental challenges associated with acquiring the raw materials they use, allowing them to make more environmentally conscious decisions. Google collaborated with McCartney “to understand the industry’s demands and to test the platform,” and a few other prominent brands and stores, like Adidas, Allbirds, H&M Group, and VF Corporation, were also involved in the pre-release process. It is now encouraging people to express their interest in utilizing it. The initial version of the GFIE is built on Google Earth Engine and uses Google Cloud computing to analyze the environmental risk of various fibres in connection to aspects like air pollution, biodiversity, climate, and greenhouse gas emissions, forestry, and water consumption. The tool should make it simple to “detect environmental concerns across over 20 fibre types — including natural, cellulosic, and synthetic materials.” It will also make suggestions for targeted and geographically relevant risk mitigation measures to brands.

MADEWELL STIMULATES HOLIDAY ENGAGEMENT WITH ITS INSIDER LOYALTY PROGRAM UPDATE

Madewell Insider, the J.Crew Group-owned brand’s loyalty program, started in the United States in 2016 and was broadened in 2020 to include more rewards for members. Members enjoyed early access to Madewell’s Black Friday sale, as well as a special gift with purchase on purchases over $125, free monogramming, and access to in-store stylists for gift assistance, all leading up to the Christmas shopping season. Members are rewarded on a sliding scale under the new scheme, with Madewell Insider status decided by how much a consumer spends each calendar year. Members receive a $10 incentive for every 250 points they acquire. On certain days throughout the year, Madewell Star and Icon members (those who spend $500 and $1,000, respectively) get triple points. “This holiday season our goal is to ‘Make it Magic’ for our customers and get them excited to shop. We want to cement for our customers that Madewell is the top destination for an incredible shopping experience and there’s no better time of year to show what you’re made of than the holiday season.” said Derek Yarbrough, Madewell chief marketing officer.

WITH THE ‘SECOND HAND’ PROJECT, DIESEL ENTERS THE RESALE MARKET

Diesel is releasing a “carefully curated edit” of vintage denim that has been repaired and renewed in select Italian storefronts and online all over Europe. The ‘Second Hand’ project intends to provide a “unique and inspirational approach to take actions towards circularity,” according to Diesel, by allowing customers to continue Diesel merchandise in use for forthcoming years.

During the summer, the process began with denim buyback programmes in select Italian stores, and Diesel gathered 900 pairs of jeans to give them a second chance at life. The reselling project will also serve to decrease a pair of denim jeans’ carbon and water footprint. Furthermore, all clothing is sprayed with Viral off and Odor Crunch, a Polygiene-developed combination treatment with anti-microbial and odour-resistant qualities that allows for less frequent laundry throughout consumer usage. Diesel ‘Second Hand’ merchandise may be purchased at three selected stores in Italy: Milan, Florence, and Rome, as well as online at diesel.com from anywhere in Europe. Diesel also stated that its buyback denim program will keep going in Italy.

AUSTRIAN TEXTILE BRAND LENZING, RETURNS TO PROFITABILITY IN THE THIRD QUARTER

In the third quarter (Q3) of FY21, which concluded on September 30, 2021, Lenzing Group, an Austrian pioneer in sustainable specialty fibers, reported a revenue increase of 32.9% to €1.59 billion, up from €1.2 billion in the same time of 2020. The nine-month net profit increased to €113.4 million (Q3 FY20: loss €23.3 million). According to the company, the success during the reporting period was attributed to greater sales volume as well as higher viscose pricing, which reached more than RMB 15,000 (renminbi) in May due to considerably stronger demand for fibers, particularly in Asia. EBITDA (profits before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization) more than quadrupled to €297.6 million (€138.5 million) in the third quarter.

Lenzing expects EBITDA to reach €360 million in FY21, according to its forecast. Furthermore, the need for sustainably generated fibers for the textile and garment sectors, as well as the hygiene and medical industries, is expected to continue to expand. Because of a variety of legislative actions, this tendency is expected to continue unabated beyond the COVID-19 pandemic.

KONTOOR BRANDS ANNOUNCES RESULTS FOR THE THIRD QUARTER OF 2021

Kontoor Brands Inc., which owns the Wrangler and Lee brands, boosted its fiscal 2021 estimation this week by releasing third-quarter financial results. In 2020, revenue is predicted to grow by a high-teens percentage to $2.47 billion to $2.48 billion, up from a mid-teens percentage in the previous projection. In comparison to the 41.2% achieved in 2020, the adjusted gross margin is now expected to grow to the high end of the earlier projection range of 44.5% to 45% of revenue. Revenue climbed 12% to $652 million in the third quarter ended Oct. 2, principally due to growth in digital, especially own.com and digital wholesale, as well as better performance throughout the U.S. wholesale business and good trends in overseas markets. Net income increased 4.3% to $63.41 million in the third quarter, up from $60.79 million the previous year.

EBITDA (earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization) was $94.23 million. Adjusted EBITDA increased 1% to $111 million. “Kontoor is uniquely positioned to win in the marketplace, as evidenced by another quarter of broad-based strength across segments, channels, and regions. And we expect our momentum to continue building, as reflected in our raised fiscal year guidance. Our strategic investments in key TSR-bolstering enablers such as digital, demand creation, and people should fuel our accelerating fundamentals,” said Scott Baxter, President, and Chief Executive Officer, Kontoor Brands.

VICUNHA USES POLYGIENE’S STAY FRESH TECH FOR ITS FABRICS

Polygiene, a Swedish chemical business, is gaining traction in the denim industry. Vicunha, a Brazilian denim mill, is the latest to incorporate its Stay Fresh technologies into fabrics, a suite of solutions designed to keep garments clean and odour-free between washes. Polygiene’s BioStatic and OdorCrunch technologies are used to treat the mill’s 2021-2022 collection. Polygiene Biostatic is an antimicrobial technique that inhibits the growth of odour-causing bacteria, hence preventing the stink from spreading.

Polygiene OdorCrunch eliminates odours from the surroundings such as kitchen fumes, cigarette smoke, or body odour by encapsulating and splitting the molecules, so eliminating the irritating aroma from the clothing. Although the technologies have been embraced by companies large and small, such as Diesel and Hiut Denim, Polygiene states that Vicunha is the first Latin American mill to apply them. Vicunha’s products are offered in denim and denim colour bases. “The partnership with Vicunha is a milestone for us in the denim segment and a breakthrough in the Brazilian market in general,” said Ulrika Björk, Polygiene CEO. “We are very proud to start working with this global leader and see it as a long-term cooperation for a more sustainable textile industry, and society.” Products like Polygiene’s are becoming more popular as customers embrace more responsible methods of closet maintenance.

In 1905 brothers Moses and Ceasar Cone embarked on what would become an icon in the denim industry, a mill called White Oak. The turn of the century brought a new energy and excitement to America, and denim fabrics gained popularity as a favored “workwear”. The first bobbin of White Oak yarn was produced on April 20, 1905.

Cone denim celebrates 110 years of manufacturing with the release of a special T-shirt and 100% profits from the sale of this T-shirt would go to support

the Salvation Army Boys & Girls Club of Greensboro .

“We are returning to our roots with the unveiling of Natural Indigo Selvage Denim, produced exclusively at its historic White Oak® mill in Greensboro, NC. The Natural Indigo Collection is “Crafted with Care in the USA” and created in celebration of White Oak’s 110 year anniversary –Cone denim says’”.

“This is one of our most exciting developments,” says Kara Nicholas, Vice President Product Development + Marketing. “The celebration of White Oak’s 110 year anniversary made this the perfect time to bring together White Oak’s heritage and authentic selvage denims with new innovation in bio based natural dyes from plant based – US farmed indigo. As far as we know, this is the first time that natural indigo has been used in scalable production in the United States in over 100 years.”

Some Cool Cone Products

Coming out with their Top Secret line of Selvedges to commemorate their 110 years Cone denim White Oak brings out some cool natural indigo colors and fabric structures to give a very different look and feel to the selvedges (see pics below).

Cone denim Detail shots of knees and whiskers for month 4 of the W660 WhiteOak110 selvage denim wear test

WhiteOak110 collection style 7237 “Floral” shirting fabric is finally here in a 6.25 oz 100% cotton Dobby weave woven at the one n only White Oak mill.

Some Vintage Garments From Cone Collection

We also bring below some of iconic heritage garments from Cone collection – some of which are over 100 years old and listed by Cone.

The mid-1900’s waist overall is from an unknown brand and the owner practically wore them to pieces, as evident by the extensive hand-mending and patchwork seen throughout, not to mention the lack of indigo left in yarns. These appear to be heavily customized by the wearer as well- the single needle stitching, unfinished seams and miscellaneous suspender buttons sewn onto the waist band all suggest that at one point these could’ve been started life as bib overalls and turned into a version more closely resembling the 5-pocket denim jeans.

A pair of heavily worn bib overalls from Blue Bell brand back in the ’40’s. This low back model has heavy hand-stitched patchwork repairs throughout, triangular suspender reinforcement, and printed “Blue Bell” label. There were several versions of Blue Bell’s label and the layout of this particular one indicates it is an earlier design. On later model garments the bell on the label is slightly tilted at an angle. Branded buttons read either “SANFORIZED” or “BLUE BELL.” The suspender straps were taken from an Anvil brand garment.

A hickorystripe popover style work wear shirt with chambray trim along the bottom circa 1940. The patchwork, hand-stitched repairs and lack of industrial fasteners, together with the “one operation” style of seeing indicates that this shirt was either homemade, or fashioned by a local seamstress. The front and back of the garment shows the sun-bleached outline of the bib and straps of the overalls the wearer paired it with.

Heavy hand repairs with a missing back left leg exposing cross sections of patchwork mending give way to a two back pocket bib design low back model with triangular suspender reinforcements.

And given below is a video from CONE proudly declaring that their fabrics are ‘STILL MADE IN AMERICA’ !

Still Made In America from Cone Denim on Vimeo.