NY Fashion week brings collections from some of the high end and cool designers together at one place. Many of these designers are exuberant and glamorous. Marc Jacobs is one such designer. This season he brought out in catholic tendencies and orientations and the effect could be seen on his collection with denim used for flowing gowns and dresses and Victorian age looks. A fresh uptake for the denim industry !
Greg Lauren masters in art of using the hand distressing techniques, pieced together jackets , military fabrics and bringing out a deconstructed nomadic look . He translates that look into his women’s collection for the SS’16. The indigo sentiment was standing out during the New York Fashion Week recently held as the designer used stripe denims and patched denims to show three piece dresses, gowns, bathrobes , hats and other ensembles. The mix of denim with other fabrics was striking.
G-Star RAW introduces its latest women’s and men’s collection for Autumn/Winter 2015. This season G-Star created a selection inspired by archival motorcycle and military wear, made to modern fits and cut from durable materials. Puffer coats, top coats, and leather jackets create the smart dress look going along with looking cool . G-Star introduces an updated version of the icon 5620 3D Zip Elwood inspired by the pants used in GP motorcycle racing circa 1960’s (the era of Mike Hailwood). Available in both men’s and women’s versions, the black jeans are resin-coated, baked and then heavily washed-down – a treatment that pays tribute to Morisset’s original inspiration. Check the collection below.
The Autumn/Winter 2015 collection will be available online at g-star.com and is in stores now.
The market for denim is bit volatile in EU and the demand and supply trends show some changes over the years. However, does this scenario apply to French Republic ? The following is a detailed analysis on the total exports, imports of this market which also helps in bringing out the consumption of jeans both for Men and Women in the FRENCH REPUBLIC market .We had done the analysis for the UK and German markets in the last reports and this time we are covering the FRENCH REPUBLIC market. French Republic is again an important country in the EU with a population of over 64.64 million and a per capita income of about $44,375 with a world ranking of 25 but still lower than UK. Let’s have a look at some vital figures from the FRENCH REPUBLIC market to get the understanding about the denim market which includes the followings:
1. Table of imports of jeans into French Market from 2010 to 2014 from within EU and respective share of important countries from EU in French market. 2 tables and 3 graphs.
2. Imports of Jeans from EU28 into French Market and their prices from different exporting countries.
3. Table of imports of jeans into French Market from 2010 to 2014 from around the world – table and graph.
4. Table for % share of French market of EU28 v. ‘Rest of the world’ with a graph.
5. Table of % share of exporting countries in the market of French Republic 2010-2014
6. Table of % share of exports from and outside the EU 2010-2014
7. Table for exports of jeans out of French Market into EU countries 2010-2014
8. Table for exports of jeans to rest of the world 2010-2014
9. Net consumption of jeans in French Republic 2010-2014
10. Per capita consumption of jeans in French Market 2010 v. 2014
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EU28 COUNTRIES
France gets imported jeans not only from around the world but also from within the EU. Let’s begin by starting to have an analysis of the figures for imports of jeans into French Republic from within EU. In the table below, we can observe that French Republic imported about 25 million pcs of jeans from countries within EU – highest among them being from Belgium. Other important countries are Spain, Italy, Netherland and Ireland etc. However, it needs to be remembered that these jeans could have been the ones that are re-distributed after importing from other countries or a part of them having been produced in EU. It’s interesting to note that the total jeans imported from within EU have increased from 23 million pcs to over 25 million pcs.
Import of Jeans from within EU to France | 2010-2014
|
Country |
2010 |
2011 |
2012 |
2013 |
2014 |
% of 2014 |
|
Spain (ES) |
4.70 |
4.97 |
5.87 |
5.67 |
6.11 |
23.65% |
|
Netherlands (NL) |
1.14 |
1.50 |
1.90 |
2.06 |
2.38 |
9.21% |
|
Italy (IT) |
3.22 |
2.88 |
2.56 |
2.40 |
2.33 |
9.02% |
|
Austria (AT) |
0.02 |
0.02 |
0.14 |
0.07 |
0.06 |
0.23% |
|
United Kingdom(GB) |
2.11 |
1.60 |
1.47 |
1.53 |
1.97 |
7.63% |
|
Sweden (SE) |
0.02 |
0.04 |
0.04 |
0.05 |
0.06 |
0.23% |
|
Belgium (BE) |
11.30 |
12.01 |
10.6 |
12.6 |
10.3 |
40.34% |
|
Czech Republic (CZ) |
0.50 |
0.49 |
0.48 |
0.47 |
0.44 |
1.70% |
|
Denmark (DK) |
0.47 |
0.52 |
0.63 |
0.64 |
0.72 |
2.78% |
|
Ireland (IE) |
0.005 |
0.03 |
0.00237 |
0.04 |
1.02 |
3.95% |
|
Portugal (PT) |
0.065 |
0.06 |
0.15 |
0.14 |
0.12 |
0.46% |
|
Others |
0.098 |
0.08 |
0.21 |
0.11 |
0.27 |
1.04% |
|
Total |
23.65 |
24.2 |
24.05 |
25.78 |
25.83 |
100.00% |
From the above analysis, it can be easily derived that Belgium holds 40% share followed by Spain with 23% share in the import. One more thing that is very eye catching that the import quantities of Belgium has reduced from 12.6 million pcs to 10.3 million pcs within one year of gap while quantities imported from Spain have been showing increasing trend so far.The table below shows the average price of jeans imported into French Market from EU countries. The average price of import in 2014 for individual countries is given along with. The table and the graph below show the details of prices from important EU countries. Czech Republic is the most expensive while Ireland is the cheapest one.
|
Imports of Jeans Into French Market from Within EU -2014 |
||
|
Country |
Qty (million pcs) |
Price (Euro/pc) |
|
Spain (ES) |
6.11 |
11.98 |
|
Netherlands (NL) |
2.38 |
19.26 |
|
Italy (IT) |
2.33 |
27.64 |
|
Austria (AT) |
0.06 |
18.52 |
|
United Kingdom(GB) |
1.97 |
17.87 |
|
Sweden (SE) |
0.06 |
26.78 |
|
Belgium (BE) |
10.3 |
10.32 |
|
Czech Republic (CZ) |
0.44 |
28.88 |
|
Denmark (DK) |
0.72 |
13.33 |
|
Ireland (IE) |
1.02 |
5.11 |
|
Portugal (PT) |
0.12 |
25.93 |
|
Others |
0.27 |
|
| % share of French Jeans Market held by EU Countries 2014 |
WORLD
Without looking at the picture of imports of Jeans from around the world, we cannot have the true picture of what is happening in the French market. Bangladesh holds the largest share of 32.35% of French market in 2014 whereas China and Pakistan come next with 31.14% and 15.67% share. The total quantity imported in 2014 was about 54.64 million pcs whereas in 2010 it was about 53.40 million pieces showing a negative growth in 5 years. Not a good portent for the industry !
|
Rest of the World | Imports of Jeans in French Market 2010-2014 |
||||||
|
Country |
2010 |
2011 |
2012 |
2013 |
2014 |
% of 2014 |
|
Bangladesh |
13.15 |
12.92 |
11.45 |
15.25 |
17.68 |
32.35% |
|
China |
22.68 |
23.56 |
19.63 |
17.08 |
17.02 |
31.14% |
|
Pakistan |
6.95 |
6.26 |
6.08 |
6.23 |
8.56 |
15.67% |
|
Morocco |
4.34 |
2.96 |
2.88 |
3.00 |
3.03 |
5.55% |
|
Tunisia |
1.75 |
1.95 |
2.24 |
2.89 |
2.90 |
5.30% |
|
Turkey |
1.41 |
1.71 |
2.09 |
2.24 |
2.60 |
4.76% |
|
Cambodia |
0.01 |
0.01 |
0.42 |
0.34 |
1.38 |
2.53% |
|
Madagascar |
0.40 |
0.47 |
0.29 |
0.33 |
0.40 |
0.74% |
|
India |
0.33 |
0.32 |
0.27 |
0.28 |
0.29 |
0.53% |
|
Sub Total |
51.01 |
50.16 |
45.35 |
47.64 |
53.86 |
98.58% |
|
Others |
2.096 |
1.630 |
0.862 |
0.720 |
0.389 |
0.71% |
|
World |
53.10 |
51.79 |
46.21 |
48.36 |
54.25 |
99.29% |
|
World Total |
55.201 |
53.421 |
47.073 |
49.076 |
54.638 |
100% |
The graph below shows the breakup of market among the key players in 2014.
TOTAL IMPORTS
The total imports of jeans into French Market can be now summarized up in the table below with shipments coming from both within EU and from outside. The share of EU in the French market is about 32.26% and 67.74% comes from rest of the world in 2014. If we look at the quantities imported from 2010 to 2014 from EU countries, it’s very apparent that there is only a marginal growth in the quantities while if we look at the figures of World, it’s quite evident that it’s on increasing trend.
|
2010 |
2011 |
2012 |
2013 |
2014 |
% of 2014 |
|
|
World |
53.10 |
51.79 |
46.21 |
48.36 |
54.25 |
67.74 |
|
EU |
23.65 |
24.2 |
24.05 |
25.78 |
25.83 |
32.26 |
|
Total Import |
76.75 |
75.99 |
70.26 |
74.14 |
80.08 |
100.00 |
TOTAL CONSUMPTION
The total consumption of jeans in French Market can be calculated with the table below. The first two columns show the exports of jeans to rest of the world and to EU countries. From the below figures , it can be easily obtained that except the year 2012 and 2013 , rest years have shown the increasing trend in export as well as import . The net consumption in 2010 was 43.52 million pcs while it has been decreased to 38.86 million pcs in 2013 but later on in 2014 the net consumption has reached to the level of 46.42 million pcs . This is a little less than 7% increase over 5 years. Can be hardly commendable, but is still ok when we consider how the economies are moving.
|
Exports and Imports from And Into French Market | 2010-2014 (million pcs) |
|||||
|
Year |
Exports outside EU28 |
Exports to EU28 countries |
Total Exports |
Total Imports |
Balance consumed |
|
2010 |
24.70 |
8.53 |
33.23 |
76.75 |
43.52 |
|
2011 |
22.67 |
7.85 |
30.52 |
75.99 |
45.47 |
|
2012 |
22.74 |
7.38 |
30.12 |
70.26 |
40.14 |
|
2013 |
27.08 |
8.70 |
35.78 |
74.14 |
38.36 |
|
2014 |
25.31 |
8.35 |
33.66 |
80.08 |
46.42 |
|
Exports and Imports from And Into French Market | 2010-2014 |
PER CAPITA CONSUMPTION
The per capita consumption of jeans in French Republic can be calculated below:
2010
Total net consumption       :           43.52 million pcs
Total population                   :          65.02 million
Per capita consumption     :          0.67 jeans per person/P.A
2014
Total net consumption        :          46.42 million pcs
Total population                   :          67.64 million
Per capita consumption     :          0.69 jeans per person/p.a
From the above analysis, it can be drawn that from the year 2010 to 2014, the per capita consumption has been slightly increased from 0.67 Jeans per person per annum to 0.69 Jeans per person per annum – a figure which is negligible and does not encourage huge optimism. Also the per capita consumption is much lower than many other nations like UK , Germany , Benelux etc. Not the greatest market, but still has a decent consumption of about 45 million pcs.
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With over $25 billion of apparel exports , Bangladesh is home to some of the largest apparel groups worldwide . The country has witnessed a steep growth curve in the last 10 years and a large part of this can be particularly attributed to garment exports. The country is aiming to achieve $50 billion in such exports by 2021 on the strength of many of the huge apparel groups which employ hundreds of thousands of people to increasingly ship all kinds of apparel to the retailers worldwide. Many of these groups are run by entrepreneurs who are first generation businessmen – who started their business with almost no capital and built huge corporates on the strength of their grit and determination. Many of these groups can be easily termed as ‘Empires’. A smaller group among them are people who are visionaries , who not only built large businesses but also initiated highest levels of corporate social responsibilities , brought the latest global management principles to their organizations, infused a spirit of innovation and high level of customer service within and outside their organizations.
One such visionary is Mr Kutubuddin Ahmed – the Chairman of Envoy Group from Bangladesh. We had the opportunity to visit his textile plant and had the privilege to talk to him and learn more about the group , his vision and the direction the group is taking. Envoy group is conglomerate of a number of companies built over the last 3 decades and their denim and apparel companies are a part of the same.
1. Welcome to our website Mr. Kutubuddin. You are a first generation entrepreneur. Please tell us about your journey and how Envoy Group grew in the last couple of decades
Thank you, Sandeep.
I started my career in 1984 in readymade garments industry with 44 plain machines and used to manufacture garments only for export purpose. As I was very much dedicated on keeping my commitments to the buyers in terms of delivery and desired quality, the factory started to earn profit. And eventually, I ended up with a substantial amount of fund to expand the business. At that time, the industry was very new and some companies were not doing well, which gave me an opportunity to buy those factories one after another and to turn them into a profitable concern. Here I was using the experience of one factory to improve and sustain the profitability of the other one.Currently we are producing more than 30 million pieces of readymade garments in a year from those factories.
At that point, I realized that a huge amount of money was going out in the importation of fabrics which was almost 60 to 65% of the total cost. In addition to the cost, the lead time to import the fabric was also very high. It used to take a lot of effort and at least 60 – 75 days for the fabrics to reach to the garment factory. The buyers usually would not want to wait for such a long time unless they are bound to import from us. Immediately, I realized the demand for textile factory here in Bangladesh.
Currently we are manufacturing Denim fabric through Envoy Textiles Limited (ETL). We started in the year 2008, with a capacity of 18 million yards of fabric per annum. In the last few years we have gradually increased our production capacity and are currently capable of manufacturing 50 million yards of denim per annum. To have better controls in the manufacturing process we are in the process of setting up a spinning mill with a capacity of 50 Tons Per day. This will make us a composite textile group starting from Cotton to Readymade Garments.
This has been possible with a very professional blend of man and machinery. We have installed state-of-the-art technology and a team of dedicated professionals to help us grow.Our focus areas now are to improve efficiencies, consistent product quality and new product development.
In addition to ETL,more than 32 other business enterprises are running under my leadership in the name of ‘ENVOY GROUP’ & ‘SHELTECH GROUP’. Nowadays, these two groups are emerging as most thriving conglomerate in Bangladesh comprising of various concerns in the industry of Readymade Garments, Textile, Freight Forwarding, Trading, Consumer Product, and in Real Estate, Construction, Brokerage House, Security/Protection Services, Hospitality & Airlines (Cargo &Passenger).
As a Textile Group, we offer multiple options to our valued customers. They can work with us as a fully vertical unit. They also have the option of either utilizing our Denim (Textile) facility or Garmenting facility.
In addition to conventional integration, we are also moving toward virtual vertical integration. For instance, we have made a treaty with a factory at Bangladesh for buying fabric only from us to manufacture jeans for globally renowned brands, and we are working to build more network like this to make our business sustainable and integrated.
Yes, but first of all, I must let you know that we do not use the term ‘worker’ – the total staff of ETL is like a family and it is often called as ‘ETL Family’ (Envoy Textiles Family)! . Of course they have different roles to play, but, at the end of day, we all have a common target and that is ‘the development of the organization’.
ETL is a company, which is more of ‘people’ oriented, and thus ‘Facilities for People’ or CSR (Corporate Social Responsibilities) is not an extended program at the ETL, rather it is one of the core value that we are nurturing in every possible manner.
Some of the unique initiatives for the ETL family include Birthday Celebrations of every employee with balloons, whistles and presents; Wedding Gift; Gifts for New Born; Assistance for Children Wedding, Prize bond for good performers; 3D Movie Theatre; Medical Assistance for Self & Family; Recognition for service of more than 10 years; Sports Round the Year, Complimentary Snacks; Award for Best Healthy Room at Dormitory; Cultural Show & Competitions; Eid Gift Hamper; Salary Transfer before 1st day of the month; Profit Sharing; Participation Committee; Scholarship Scheme. 24 Hour Ambulance; Gymnasium; 24 Hour Convenient Shop (Self Service); Computer KIOSKs accessible by all; Complimentary Computer Courses, including Trainer’s Training Allowances, Accommodation; Emergency In-House Medical Center; Chef Service; Food Subsidy; In-House Bakery; ATM & Mobile Banking; Provident Fund; In-House Mosjid, Arabic Training; etc..
In addition to the welfare of staff, ETL also extends its CSR activity for the external community as well with initiatives like: Pediatric ICU for Burn Victims (At Dhaka Medical College Hospital); Art Competition for neighboring children; Effluent Treatment Plant; Priority Appointment for Physically Challenged Persons; Salary Payment for other factory’s fire victims (Tazreen Fashions, through BGMEA), Donation to Rana Plaza; Salary Continuation Even after closing; Financial Assistance for Autistic Children; etc.
It will bring a great happiness to us if any of these functions can bring inspiration to other fellow manufacturer, that’s how we look at our CSR program!
For us Eco sustainability is as important as our denims. We believe that it has to go hand in hand. Our philosophy is to give it back to the nature so that the next generation can survive.
Some of the steps that have been taken by us in this direction include:
We are currently working for LEED Certification and expecting to get that soon.
We are also in the process to establish an eco-park within the factory premises. We are planning to plant 2,000 trees where live animals will roam around. (license from government is under process).
There are many innovative and state-of-the-art products in the market from ETL, like Knit Look denim; Super Stretch Denims, etc. In this season we have included special performance Denims like Thermolite and Coolmax. We will also be showcasing blends like Modal, Tencil & Rayon in Denims.
In addition to those, our upcoming products also includes Specialized Handloom Products, Selvedge Denim, etc.A lot more are also evolving in our Research & Development Division and are in the process to be offered to our customers periodically.
We are also focusing to provide a value added service to our customers by setting up a full-fledged Physical and Chemical Laboratory. We have already got our lab accreditation by Levi’s. Also we are currently in the process to get lab accreditations from few other global retailers.
Bangladesh already has a good foot hold in the Readymade Garments Industry exporting approximately 25 billion dollar worth of products annually. Due to the development of our textiles mills, the industry is able to offer a better lead time, improved R&D and availability of skilled workforce.
In order to further consolidate the country’s position, we should focus on improving our Technical know-how, invest in Research & Development for improving our product mix and install state of the art technology. Also need to focus on improving a the washing capabilities
Our future plan includes but is not limited to –Adding Spinning by April 2016 (Backward Linkage) ,Manufacturing of Twill fabric , Manufacturing of Yarn Dyed fabrics etc. And, we plan to serve our customers through offering Premium Products ,State-of-the-art Laboratory Facility and Finest Customer Service . Some of our Major Customers are LEVI’S , VF Corporation, Inditex Group , Tema Turkiye, Marks and Spencer, NEXT, Carrefour, Gymboree ,Walmart , TCP etc
We could capture images from some of the important areas of the ETL which showed how the ETL family was really built up as a strongly knit unit. The facilities for all employees included Gyms, Movie theatres, Computer kiosks and much more. Employees could be seen coming to the gym at different times during the day to do workouts.
 
Computer kiosks help employees at all levels to be computer aware.
They can even check all particulars about their salary online on these kiosks.
One interesting thing was the very active promotion of sports competition within the ETL family. There are various teams under which employees are encouraged to compete for different sports activities throughout the year .
One very unique idea was setting up a self service shop. There is no attendant in this shop which has various items of daily use including bakery, eatables , drinks, ice creams etc. Anyone taking something from here has to drop the money for the equivalent amount in the box without anyone watching it. This shop is never monitored and I came to know that the shop never had collection short of the value of items taken . This speaks volumes about the management confidence in their employees and they responding to it to their best.
The worker’s quarters at ETL seemed very high quality, clean and built well.
A few pics from their plant.
.
AG Jeans presents their 2015 Fall Winter Women’s Lookbook. Besides the omnipresent ripped boyfriend jeans we find metallic style skinny jeans ,tie dyed print jeans, eye catching washed pairs, patent black fitted shorts and other vibrant color skinnies. The collection is very chic and precise without too much ado ..
Alexa Chung for the second time joined forces with the popular brand AG Jeans, creating a new fall-winter collection 2015. Furthermore, in her latest advertising campaign line, British style icon of tradition also starred herself.
The new collection Fall / Winter 2015, was the second joint brainchild of Alexa Chung and AG Jeans. According to Chang, working on the line, she found inspiration in the concept of a stylish girl-rebel.
Siwy Denim Fall 2015 looks are Inspired by the rock & roll and ever-mystical qualities of Stevie Nicks, and look to the personality, personal style &otherworldly presence of this style icon to conjure up and imagine the new season. The rich jewel-tone velvets so prominent in her ensembles, detailed rock & roll treatments overlaid with tonal contemporary appeal & loose silhouettes flowing in the ever so Stevie way. Sheer panels with a peek-a-boo unveiling and icons & symbols with magical capacity harken back to costume detailing and art directed album covers. Studs, grommets& surface texture mimic patterns reminiscent of her personal style as high waist flares recall a decade of stellar greatness. Hints of yesteryear eras are seen in vintage washes, glam of pops of sequins & sparkle and tie-dyed muted metallic prints that feel iconic and timeless.
Stressing on the comfort factor , the fabrics and washes come in the softest denims, tencels, faux suede etc. and vary from crisp dark variations to worn-in sometimes destroyed vintage washes that range from light blues to deep, dark indigos. Worn and weathered blacks and greys hint of street stories and long rock & roll tours with their crackle and lived in & loved wear patterns. Prints are derived from patterns of tie-dye that hint of spirit animal patterns. Texture plays an important roll in the season with hot fix treatments, special soutache details and raw edge seams and hems. Bodies become diverse with jumpsuits, loose fitting lounge & sport inspired silhouettes, overalls & flares. Rises rise with both our classic skinny styles & looser fit bodies as seen in our girlfriend fit.
The washes used to display Worn in blues ,Medium vintage blues ,Deep raw indigo,Vintage blacks and grays and Distressed looks .
Silhouettes – Looser styles are abundant for the flattering; jumpsuits, overalls, boyfriends and athletic inspired styles. Skinny’s come in higher rises .
Paris born Marie Sophie Lockhart has earned a spot in showrooms of Browns in London as well as a collaboration with 3×1 denim . And all this has been possible because she has been letting her imagination go wild with different kind of embroidered patterns over different clothing including jeans. It takes about a day to bring up one jeans with a new embroidery design. Having a tattoo artist husband does help and gives her inspiration to bring out saucy designs with retro threads. Her designs on jeans includes everything from Rainbows, to Jesus , to personalized and everything that is possible with imagination. Get inspired with some of her designs below !
Further to previous looks from Kapital for Fall’15 , the brand brings out some new looks from their stable directed at 30 something generation. Packed with signature Kapital looks, layered textures and textiles and quirky personality that the brand is known for , the autumn assortment offered by designer Kiro Hirata has new takes on timeless classics like patchworks, classic coats, military , French workwear etc. The collection sees Thunderbird style jackets and other 70s pieces like the smiley sleeve trucker. Patchwork, embroidery and ‘tear – distress’ weave into with layering and texturing.
Mavi has teamed up with ORTA to protect endangered sea turtles by supporting the Ecological Research Society’s (EKAD) Indigo Turtles project.Mavi, designer of contemporary denim styles inspired by the Mediterranean spirit, and Orta Anadolu, developer of innovative denim fabrics – both from Turkey – have joined forces to unite sea turtles – also called Indigo Turtles because of their color- with their natural habitat.
The Indigo Turtles project aims to protect two species of sea turtles native to the Mediterranean, Caretta caretta and Chelonia mydas, each of which has been navigating the earth for over a hundred million years. The project kicked off last year, helping fifteen thousand hatchling turtles reach the relative safety of the sea. Facing many difficulties, only forty percent of hatchling turtles reach the water and only one in a thousand survive there after. The Indigo Turtles project not only offers the little turtles hands-on help in the field, but also utilizes its network to raise awareness about the problem and its potential solutions.
Along with hundreds of university volunteers, customers and followers, Mavi and ORTA employees join EKAD’s efforts in Belek, near Antalya/Turkey, from June to September. Volunteers from around the world help hatchlings climb out of their nests and begin their journey towards the open ocean.
One T-shirt, ten sea turtles!
Mavi has also created a special t-shirt for supporting this activity. Every purchase of a Mavi Indigo Turtle t-shirt can possibly safeguard the lives of ten baby sea turtles and makes a contribution to the Mediterranean basin. The t-shirts will generate resources to protect fifteen thousand hatchlings from four hundred nests. Indigo Turtles T-shirts are available online in Mavi USA
Some Facts On Indigo Turtles
Denim is wihout doubt the most worn fabric worldwide . A number of books try to chronicle the journey of denim through over a century of development. In this report , we bring out the details of some of the coolest and most interesting denim books that are found around the world. Each of them explores different aspects of the high fashion denim industry – whether it is the indigo dyeing, manufacturing and styling, effect of and on fashion and much more  . Check out the list below and get denimified !
The book explores varying dying methods and the human story behind the colour, taking the reader on a journey through Japan, China, India, Africa, Central America, Laos and Vietnam to offer a fascinating study of old world practices and the history of this color. Hundreds of beautiful photographs show items, ranging from doors to quilts to turbans and the stained hands and many faces of the makers behind them, to exemplify why Indigo has continued inspiring us throughout the ages. Legrand features Austrian dyer Josef Foo’s stunning art of wood-block printing Indigo, which show cases the colour’s vitality when contrasted with white and even shows us how to make the dye ourselves at home using lead sugar, powdered gold and blue vitriol.
The book explores the production of indigo textiles throughout America, China, India, Africa, Central Asia, Japan, Laos, and Vietnam. It features more than 500 color photographs and is completed by specially commissioned drawings that provide close-ups of patterns and cloths.In each of the areas explored by Legrand, the author finds similar methods for cultivation, pigment extraction and dying methods, although the final products range from turbans to quilts depending of the textile needs of the area. Hundreds of color photographs serve to illustrate the process as well as the variety of indigo application. More at…..
This one is for all the denimheads out there. Piero Turk dedicated a significant part of his life to denim, having worked in the denim industry for quite some years. With that experience he decided to start a new brand titled Manic Monkey. He also is the author of this awesome book titled: “Details: A Life With Denimâ€. This new book offers around 300 images of denim, jeans and more stuff related to the blue gold.
 
Then after working many years together with Adriano Goldschmied for many of the most jeans and fashion brands around the world, in year 2000 I opened my own design studio. During the last 15 years I did work for many top level denim brands. EDWIN, BIG STAR, MUSTANG, AG, SEVEN, GUESSamong others and for fashion brands like SPORTMAX, SEE by CHLOE and others helping them to develop their jeans line. More at…
Denim Dudes is a street style book with a difference. This richly illustrated title showcases over 80 metalheads punks, indie kids, rockabillies, bikers, hipsters, geeks, and other enthusiasts who are obsessed with denim. Written by Amy Leverton (ex-denim editor WGSN) The book is split into three parts: US, Europe and Japan & Australia. How would you broadly describe the differences in denim styles between these place.
Indigo tells the compelling and comprehensive story of the world’s oldest, most magical, and best-loved dye.
“All those working with indigo or merely interested in the cultural history of that dye must read this book.”—Textile Forum.
The book covers: Indigo’s history, dating to ancient times The botanical sources of indigo, including woad , Uses of indigo in traditional medicine and religious practices The chemistry of indigo and the technology used to extract it Production and dyeing methods The commercial indigo industry, past and present The health consequences of making indigo Modern and future applications of indigo Indigo’s continuing appeal and the iconic blue jean.Produced from plants by a process akin to alchemy, indigo has a unique chemistry that renders it compatible with all natural fibres. From the time of the ancient Egyptians it made an incredible impact worldwide as the world’s only source of blue of every hue, and was also indispensable for creating a glorious range of colors when combined with other natural dyes. More at….
Journey through the history of jeans, from their invention during the Gold Rush through the turbulent eras that preceded the 21st Century. Watch as denim slacks help Americans define themselves, whether that definition is strong, unpretentious, pretentious, informal, comfortable, classless, haute couture, hard-working, or reliable.
Also, revisit the craze for vintage blue jeans, when faded and worn fueled a frenzy of global buying. Artful photography of denim as seen on bodies, in retail stores, and in the flea markets of America, add to the thoughtful essays, making this a iconic book certain to be treasured in fashion circles for decades.In this book many denim stories are written and there are many pictures about denim, Levi’s vintage jeans, advertisement of Levi’s, Lee, Blue Bell(Wrangler),cow boy jeans, biker jeans, worker jeans, etc.. More at
True Fit A Collected History of Denim by Viktor Fredback. This is an incredible book that shows various historical pieces of denim throughout the years. The book is incredible photographed by photographer Fredrik Ottosson.
 
The book, True Fit – A Collected History of Denim, is the story of jeans’ genesis and evolution. They present at the birth of the garment in the mid-1870s and follow its evolution a hundred years forward in time. The account of the history of jeans also reveals that the garment makes up an integral part of American heritage. Viktor Fredbäck is a Swedish denim collector who travels to old silver mines in the Nevada desert in hopes of digging up historic jeans from the 1800’s . More at…
Detailing a story of Levi’s Strauss , the book explains how Levi Strauss & Co. started with imported clothing, bedding, and notions to supply the many small stores serving the Gold Rush and the expanding American West. By 1873, he and partner Jacob Davis invented the very first blue jeans, which were soon worn by working men from Los Angeles to Laramie.
Strauss parlayed his business acumen into social progress by giving back to his community and embedding a company culture committed to positively impacting society. In this spirit, the Levi Strauss Foundation was created after World War II, formalizing the philanthropic work started by Strauss himself a century earlier. All the while, the company has evolved with successive generations of family owners, expanding product lines to meet the ever-changing needs of consumers around the world. More at…..
Norwegian-based jeans brand Livid Jeans and Norwegian photographer Ole A. Ekker collaborate once again on the second edition of their ongoing project, Denim book.
This is the second issue of Fades Of Indigo. A collaborative piece between Norwegian photograper Ole A. Ekker and the Norwegian based jeansbrand Livid Jeans. Made to capture the strong bonds between people and denim and tell their stories through a variety of pictures. One single craft is often used only as a supplement to the other. Similarities between crafts are common, but the connection not always seen. There is great beauty in combining crafts because they’re able to bring forth what may be left unsaid when standing alone. Through authentic, honest and passionate work our cooperation aims to focus on artisanal aspects in both their crafts.
By Minoru Onozato
The book was put together by editor in chief of Rugged Magazine, Minoru Onozato. He describes in the bi-lingual introduction:
The book lovingly describes each item and points out its special highlights and features. It’s an amazing insight into the eye of a knowledgeable collector who knows classic menswear apparel inside and out. So if you want to learn, he is the master to teach you! Classical rugged fashion is somewhat timeless yet it can be enriched with the essence of military wear, sport fashion, outdoor fashion, workwear, native fashion, etc. For their the pursuit of rugged fashion, or pursuit of “unfashionable fashion†has flourished their life and sometimes given them great ideas and thoughts in their publishing and film making career. More at…..
A collection of vintage jeans. The book is a homage to Levi’s Jeans from 1890 till 1966. The book highlights 51 unique and rare pair of jeans. Made by Levi’s expert @yuttan1977 from Japan. Bravo Yutaka for this great document!The book contains 200 pages with full colour pictures and text in Japanese and English language.
The book contains 200 pages with full colour pictures and text in Japanese and English language.The 501XX – A collection of vintage jeans. The book is a sort of homage to Levi’s Jeans as it captures vintage Big E jeans from 1890 till 1966. The book shows 51 unique and rare examples which are in hands of Japanese Levi’s Jeans collectors. It’s a beautiful book and a great learning tool of the 501XX; it’s so lovely to see some of the best examples the world has to offer to learn first-hand about this amazing piece of denim history. More at…..
The story of both the past and, above all,   the future of denim, through the innovations and the voices of those who “do” denim. This book is published by ISKO Denim of Turkey.
Just call them the “Bluemasters”. These are the men and women who have brought innovaÂtion to denim, be it in production and manufacture, creativity, retailing or communications, rendering the pair of jeans the most iconic, sought-after garment on the planet. From the cotton boll to the catwalk, from dyeing to washing, from the shop window to the mass media, behind all the most high-fashion jeans there usually lurks one of these people.
These are the people, each in their own special way a true master of denim, to whom this book Bluemasters, Innovation in Denim, is dedicated, weaving together some of today’s most fascinating stories all of them inspired by the most famous blue fabric on the planet.
Written by Fabiana Giacomotti, fashion guru and head of Fashion and Costume Studies at Rome’s Sapienza University, published by the Menabò Group, this volume fulfills the dream of Iskoâ„¢, shared by Archroma, to create a space in which to delve into the cultural currents, the ebbs and flows that move the world of denim, and this book is that space. Naturally this no encyclopedia, since it would be impossible for a single volume to cover every last detail of such a tumultuous sector, it should rather been seen as a catalyst.
The book’s two hundred large-format pages are divided into two parts. The first is a series of interviews profiling the Bluemasters, presented in alphabetical order, photographed at work in their office, at the work bench, in the laundry or in the laboratory.
The second, more technical part, traces the landmarks in the evolution of denim production, with a special focus on eco-friendly cotton growing and such processes as dyeing, washing and finishing, providing a wealth of useful information and insight into all the backstage work that goes into a pair of jeans. More at…..
Renowned photographer Horst. A Friedrichs took to the streets of London to snap the aficionados, retailers and makers of the contemporary denim scene. In an introduction written by Kelly Dawson of Dawson Denim, she heralds this pictorial work as “the rite of passage for the Denimhead.” The beautifully curated collection of photographs is complete with a mini dictionary at the back, making it a perfect gift for the denim-fan in your life.
This book takes in all aspects of the thriving denim culture, whose followers can be obsessive about how the denim is woven, the old shuttle looms that weave it, the people who weave it, and the skills and techniques they have and use. Pages of gorgeous photographs of denim wear will inspire today’s style conscious and trendspotters alike. More at…..
On any given day nearly half the world’s population is wearing blue jeans. This is entirely extraordinary. Yet there has never been a serious attempt to understand the causes, nature and consequences of denim as ‘the’ global garment of our world. This book takes up that challenge with gusto. It gives clear, if surprising, explanations for why this is the case, challenging the accepted history of jeans and showing why the reasons cannot be commercial. While discussing the consequences of denim at the global level, the book consists of some exemplary studies by anthropologists of what blue jeans mean in a variety of local situations. These range from the discussion of hip-hop jeans in Germany, denim and sex in Milan through to the connection between denim and recycling in the US. But through all these intensively researched ethnographies of local denim we build our understanding of the most curious of all features of blue jeans – the rise of global denim.
 
Emily Current and Meritt Elliott have been styling together for more than a decade and are known for the popular denim brand Current/Elliott. Hilary Walsh is a fashion and portrait photographer who has been featured in many advertisements and publications such as Vogue, Interview, and Elle.
Emily Current and Meritt Elliott, the original creators of Current/Elliott, enter the next chapter of their denim career with the release of their book, A Denim Story: Inspirations from Bellbottoms to Boyfriends.
This style bible is a chic and sexy look at the myriad possibilities of blue jeans, the classic and ever-evolving fashion essential. Blue jeans are an iconic part of American culture. And, like the American dream, denim is constantly reinventing itself. A Denim Storyshowcases timeless images of blue jean style. Featuring such icons as Marilyn Monroe, Patti Smith, Jane Birkin, and Kate Moss, as well as dreamy inspiration boards from the authors’ own work, this volume is full of ideas and inspirations. A pair of jeans always makes a statement, whether they are tight and purposeful or loose and frayed. Blue jeans can embody dreamy, girlish innocence or the best of boyishness, as when worn two sizes too big, low on the hips, and rolled up at the ankle.
Catalog to the exhibition Mottainai: The Fabric of Life, Lessons in Frugality from Traditional Japan at the Portland Japanese Garden, November 4 – 27, 2011
This exhibition of antique Japanese folk textiles from the Meiji period (1868-1912) is comprised of selections from the private collections of Stephen Szczepanek (suh-PAN-ecks) of Sri in Brooklyn and Kei Kawasaki of Gallery Kei in Kyoto. The exhibition demonstrates the remarkable ability of the Japanese to not only make do with the very little they had, but to make art with it.For generations before the “Economic Miracle†took place in the decades following World War II, Japan was a poor country. People recycled everything. Nothing was wasted, and the word “mottainai†(waste nothing!) was a ubiquitous exclamation used by every frugal parent to warn children about wasting a bite of food or a scrap of cloth or paper.
The exhibition represents a wide variety of traditional textile making and decorating techniques, including sashiko stitching, bast fiber weaving and dyeing, and patchwork quilting, the latter referred to as boro.
“Boro is a term now widely recognized that describes these patched and mended fabrics,†said Stephen, who is clearly awed by the ingenuity and beauty of these pieces and has written articles for Selvedge, Hali, and Cover magazine about them. Hanging like abstract art on the walls of his Brooklyn loft are a boro indigo futon cover and a boro yogi, or sleeping kimono. He contends that these were never intended as works of art, though collectors from New York to Paris now seek out these modest garments for the remnants of the spirit of rural Japan they see in them. “What I love,†Stephen says, “is that there is so much history in every piece.â€
His small Brooklyn loft is both show room and home to Stephen, whose Sri has been featured in the New York Times as a fascinating destination for those who love the real thing. According to one New York Times article (2007): “A resident of Brooklyn for the past 22 years, Stephen finds sanctuary in the cloth of another culture, which allows him to travel to a faraway time and place without having to leave home (although he does go to Japan on buying trips twice a year, visiting dealers and temple markets in Kyoto).â€Â More at…..
It tells how the first pair of jeans came about and documents the material’s rise from humble beginnings as workwear in 19th-century America, through its love affair with 1940s Hollywood and its adoption by a rebellious generation of teenagers in the 1950s, right up to its emergence as a high-fashion fabric in the 1990s. The authors have dug deep into the archives to unearth many rare, previously unpublished pictures ranging from archive photographs from the early days when brands such as Levi’s Lee and Wrangler were first establishing themselves to portraits displaying the gritty glamour of denim-clad icons such as Robert Mitchum, Marilyn Monroe and Chet Baker.
 
It features rare pictures of icons wearing denim, like Marilyn Monroe and Steve McQueen, plus specially commissioned photos of rare and classic garments from the 1880s to the present day. It is complete with a glossary and a guide to valuable vintage items. More at…..
For almost five millennia, indigo – a blue pigment obtained from the small green leaf of a parasitic shrub – has been at the centre of turbulent human encounters, prized by slave traders, religious figures and the fashion world. “Indigo” is the story of this precious dye and its ancient heritage: its relationship to slavery as the ‘hidden half’ of the transatlantic slave trade, its profound influence on fashion, and its spiritual significance. It is a story brimming with electrifying tales of those who shaped the course of colonial history and world economy.
But this is also the story of a personal quest: McKinley’s ancestors include a clan of Scots who wore indigo tartan, several generations of Jewish ‘rag traders’ and Massachusetts textile factory owners, and African slaves who were traded along the same Saharan routes. Her journey takes her to nine West African countries and is resplendent with powerful lessons of heritage and history. More at…..
Commonly associated with Japan, it is also used in Africa, India and South America. Shibori is the Japanese term (from the word ‘to squeeze or wring’), for the dye-resist technique of binding, clamping or gathering the cloth so that the dye cannot reach certain parts. Author Janice Gunner’s book is aimed at quilters, embroiderers and textile artists who not only want to master the techniques of shibori but also find ways of using the fabric once created for a range of textile techniques including quilting and embroidery. More at…..
Beautiful pictures of wonderful dyed fabrics used in a variety of designs accompany detailed advice on the materials required, preparing the fabric and the dyeing methods. Using Shibori techniques – folding, pleating, clamping, stitching and pole wrapping, the author illustrates all the different stages, using clear step-by-step photographs and easy-to-follow text. A stunning sequence of inspirational projects have been specially chosen to develop skills and build confidence, with instructions on how to make a tea cosy, a jacket, a silk scarf and more.
Kansas City (US) based BALDWIN brings out Holiday 2015 Look Book including premium selvage denim, knitwear, outerwear, sweaters and hoodies for the up and coming collection.Some styles are composed of stretch selvage while an exclusive Nolan Drawstring Pant in Heather Grey Herringbone is made from boiled . Straight pajama cut works out well in selvedges , green cast denim in relaxed fit adds to the looks while leather, wool and other accompaniments add to the cool visuals of the modern casual wardrobe.
