Tag: bread and butter

  • Bread And Butter Denim Trends for S/S 13

    Here is a report from Stylesight regarding Bread and Butter denim trends in the show held in Berlin on July 4th-6th.  A number of previous trends like color denim, tailored looks ,light weights   continue with modifications while the ones like Pattern denim looks evolve with micro looks .

    Cheat sheet :

    • Performance Denim
    • Premium Indigo
    • Indigo Pattern

     

    Performance Denim

    A key story for S/S 13, brands look to peak performance technology to increase sale-ability and appeal.
    Swiss brand Rokker make denim garments for extreme biker performance / Shock absorption membranes and Schoeller Dynatec technology / Edwin continue last season’s FuseProject jeans with Teflon bonded jeans / G-Star’s “Sports Originals” taps into activewear styling for the denim market

    Brands increase their product’s appeal byinfusing technological advances to denim. Extreme biker denim garments with protective membrane fabrics. Sportswear ranges and active-ready denim.

    Rokker Performance Denim

    Rokker Performance Denim

    G Star Edwin  Performance Denim

    Premium Indigo

    Brand’s key focus for Summer 13 is with premium, saturated and deep indigo tones.

    Men’s indigos come in saturated selvedge with indigo warp and weft / Natural Japanese indigo dyes trend / Overdyed vintage herringbones offer rich texture / Black wefts create a deep indigo cast / Women’s brands look to sateen weaves to create a rich luster

    A strong focus for S/S 13, brands embrace the artisanal roots of denim. Natural indigo dips, deep and rich casts and blackened wefts create a deep palette.

    Premium weaves appeal to both the Men’s and Women’s markets.

    45rpm Premium Indigo

    Momotaro  , Gstar  Premium Indigo

    Indigo Pattern

    One of the biggest trends to feature at Bread & Butter this season, micro indigo pattern dominated both Men’s and Women’s denim.

    A trend originally Japan-based, indigo pattern emerges for the western denim world / Micro paisleys emerge for both guys and girls / Jacquard denims look set to be key for 2013 / AG present innovative jacquard patchwork looks /Painterly indigo laundries and graphic geo prints .Indigo ditsy prints are a key surface innovation for S/S 13. Plaids, micro florals and paisleys create surface interest.

    Jacquard weaves hit product after their success at fabric trade shows.

    Adriano Goldschmied  ,Indigo Pattern

    Adriano Goldschmied  ,Indigo Pattern

    Adriano Goldschmied  ,Indigo Pattern

    Plastic Accent

    Cementing the performance denim story, technical finishes and glossy sign-off update denim.

    Creates a clean and future-forward aesthetic / Taped seams and watertight function / Clean plastersol prints add a graphic highlight to denim detailing / Rubberized finishes on zips and pocket openings / Raw indigo and black accentuate city-smart attitude

    Rokker Plastic Accent

    Rokker Plastic Accent

    Summer Parker

    Technical function melds with treated lightweight denims to create a functional Summer basic.

    Active and military themes drive new jacket shapes for Summer 13 / Lightweight fabrications re-work the parker for summer wear / Mavi uses tactile tencel to give this outdoors shape feminine appeal / Denham takes tencel and gives it masculine attitude with a resin finish / Drawstrings, functional zips and hooded silhouettes.PRPS Jeans - Summer Parker

    PRPS Jeans - Summer Parker

    Mandarin Jacket

    Oriental themes update girlʼs blouson and collarless jackets for Summer 13.

    The Coco Trucker is reworked with a more Chinese feel for S/S 13 / Mao jacket micro-stand collars / Neat and fitted body shape / Modernized railroad detailing updates from trucker looks

    Gstar Denim Mandarin Jacket

    R95th Denim Mandarin Jacket

    Denim Tailor

    As sartorial and tailored influences continue to trend, the unisex blazer emerges.

    Fitted and neat silhouettes for both men and women / Premium denims such as Tencels and sateens / Glossy finishes are resin coated for a premium look / Railroad styling is modernized and added for a more denim attitude /Contrast top stitching adds authenticity.

    Denim Tailor - R95th

    G Star Mavi - Denim Tailor

    Summer weight Jean

    Chambray and lightweight denim is tapped to update Summer 2013ʼs denim jeans.

    The classic summer jean becomes a key item / Lightweight denims in 8-11 oz weights / Tencel denims and chambrays / Modernized styling explores trouser pockets and tailored details / Loose and baggy silhouettes create a relaxed summertime look / Laundered chambray or raw and rigid looks.

    Summer Weight Jeans - Gstar , Edwin

    Summer Weight Jeans - Gstar , Edwin

    Shifting Perspective

    The classic shift dress gets a makeover for S/S 13.

    Womenʼs shift dress shapes are reworked into new modern looks / Minimal tee-dresses with simple tie belts offer summertime simplicity / Directional seam detailing and asymmetric openings create interest / Shirtdress styling fuses with shift silhouettes / Tencels chambrays and lightweight denims offer drape / Color-blocking continues.

    Summer Time Women Denim Dresses

    Summer Time Women Denim Dresses

    Jersey Indigo

    A key unisex story, casualwear tops are re-worked in indigo jersey.

    Resin dyed blue jersey gives tops a laundered denim look / Clean vest top shapes are key for Womenʼs Summer 13/ Drape tencels are key for the premium Womenʼs market / Laundered and faded indigo shades / Rich and saturated overdyes.

    Indigo Jersey - Tommy , AG,

    Indigo Jersey - PRPS

    Fabric-Blocked Shirt

    Menʼs shirts continue to be a big seller and updates draw on a multitude of fabric blocking for S/S 13.

    Ditsy floral shirtings with denim collar, cuffs, sleeves and pocket / Gingham checks, plaids and stripes / Denim shirts with contrast front yokes / Laundered denim pockets on contrast fabric shirts.

    Fabric Blocked Denim Shirt

    Fabric Blocked Denim Shirt

    Summer Blanket

    With the influence of winter blanket looks, brands look to continuing the look for lighter, summer styling.

    Colorful blanket stripes and checks nod to archival 60s lined truckers / Mexican blanket weaves in muted tones / Indigo teams with lively brights / Traditional blanket linings are re-worked in lighter-weight denims / total garments, linings and inserts.

    Summer Blanket Denim Jeans

    Summer Blanket Denim Jeans

     

    Playful Repeats

    Following the indigo print story, micro spots, dots and hearts emerge for S/S 13.

    Repeat spot prints update the classic chambray summer short / Japanese Wabash micro spots adorn collar reverse/ Repeat hearts appeal to the Womenʼs and Juniorʼs market / Retro spots update daisy duke tie-waist shirts / Clean and graphic white and indigo story.

    Playful Repeats Patterns - Denim Jeans

    Playful Repeats Patterns - Denim Jeans

    Ecru

    Unbleached cotton looks have emerged for Summer in previous seasons, but S/S 13 looks set to be a key year.

    Unbleached, un-dyed and untreated cottons / Strong eco story with little or no chemical treatments / Ecru takes prominence as the Summer shade of choice for denim/ Unrefined and unbleached cottons / New Summer white alternative / Once a menswear story, Ecru emerges across markets for S/S 13.

    Ecru Denim Jeans

    Ecru Denim Jeans

    Pastel Weft

    With white and ecru warp yarns trending, fashion denim brands look to colored wefts for a summer update.

    Pushing the colored weft trend into a pastel-toned, summer-ready story / Green emerges a prominent shade for 2013 / Intentional destruction reveals weft color beneath / Key update for the loose boyfriend jean / Gives clean white denim a subtle 2013 update.

    Pastel Weft Colored Denim Jeans

    clip_image064

    Vegetal Pink

    A strong color particularly for menswear, natural and vegetal pinks emerge on chambrays and denims.

    Industry of All Nations use natural dyes to create their pink denim shade / Lightweight denims are coated with colored resin for a laundered feel / Red chambray is a key fabric for both Men’s and Women’s markets.

    Vegetal Pink Denim Jeans

    Vegetal Pink Denim Jeans

    Colored Resin

    A new surface dye technique to emerge for S/S 13; colored resins create laundered imperfection.

    Lightweight denims are coated with matte colored resins / Laundered and tumbled treatments create an uneven,mottled effect / Updates all product categories, including shirts and jackets / Rich royal blue offers a modern alternative to natural indigo / Creates strong contrast and seam pooling with a soft-focus look.

    Colored Resins - Denim Jeans

    Colored Resins - Denim Jeans

    Dramatic Dip

    A wash treatment Stylesight has been following for a few seasons, dip dye looks are updated for Summer 13.

    White denim pairs with bright contrast shades for S/S 13 / Soft gradients are achieved with graduated dips / More dramatic dips are sponged and painted, with a strong DIY attitude / Indigo is synthetic and bright, to appeal to a fashion-conscious market.

    Dip Denim Jeans

    clip_image076

    Statement Surface

    As items become more core for Summer 13, surface treatments, prints and laundries take center stage.

    Classic slim and skinny silhouettes are updated with allover high-color prints / Digital printing replicates watercolor laundries / New holographic and pearlescent looks emerge / Dramatic allover batik and tie-dyes.

    Prints and Surface Treatments - Denim Jeans

    Prints and Surface Treatments - Denim Jeans

    Tropical

    Allover florals are replaced with a unisex tropical trend for Summer 13.

    A trend that has taken hold in retail the story looks set to continue into S/S 13 / Both menʼs and womenʼs styling is key for this vacation surface story / Allover photo prints in retro brights / Items emerge for the menswear market from 7 For All Mankind and Roy Rogers / Painterly and diffused looks offer a new take on the trend.

    Tropical Florals Denim Jeans

    Tropical Florals Denim Jeans

    Watch the musical presentation of these trends  below and you can see the presentation in 3D here…

    About Stylesight:  Stylesight  is a leading provider of trend content, tools and technology for creative professionals in the fashion and style industries.

  • Bread and Butter–Spring Summer 2013

     

    Bread and Butter - Temple of Denim

    The Bread and Butter show for Spring/Summer 2013 was successfully concluded last week.  This year’s theme wasThe Rock – a testament to B&B’s presence and prominence in the industry.  Though the show experienced some setbacks with the withdrawal of major brands – Levi’s, Lee and Diesel , new niche brands found place and a new concept  ‘ Temple of Denim’  was created  with exclusive high-end Japanse, American and European denim brands. For the moment, Temple of imagedenim will only there for this one time, but there are a lot of possibilities for the future. The Temple of Denim became the new heart of the show . With about 27 denim brands including 45rpm from Japan, Denham, Adriano Goldschmidt, 7 For All Mankind, 3×1, Natural Selection, Rising Sun Co., Momotaro, Japan Blue, and others. Something new was the recognition given to two highly innovative denim mills – TRC (Italy ) and Orta Anadolu (Turkey) – who were included in the Temple area alongwith the brands.

    Housed in over 3000 sq mtrs of roofed terrace, the show explored the theme of religion and was  a visual treat with  imitations of several religions from around the world. The show, in the wild spirit of denim,  ran on the wooden tables around which the visitors were seated. Temple of denim - BBB - Spring Summer 2013

    Among the trends noticed at BBB  can be included Colored jeans – but which have  also undergone a transformation for the 2013 summer season; with textured , metallic and ombre jeans most noticeable. Indigo on Indigo was a popular theme as well.

    We shall be publishing complete trends from BBB shortly. Check out some images from BBB and a video showing the Temple of Denim show

    Bread and Butter - Spring Summer 2013

    Bread and Butter - July 2012

    Bread and Butter - July 2012

    Video from Temple of Denim Show

    Data Sections at Denimsandjeans.com

  • Bread and Butter Berlin (BBB) July 7th – 9th 2010 – A Review Of Denim Trends

    This is a guest post by Rik Vanniewenbourgh

    The Bread and Butter this season was an extravagant party with lot of enthusiasm and energy showing up in the show . The video below catches some of this energy from the party.

    First impressions from the Bread and Butter

    Some of the key denim trends at the show were :

    Vintage Denim

    A lot of attention towards vintage denim came from brands like Levi’s / Wrangler / G- Star / Tommy Hilfiger etc.

    ADRIANO GOLDSMIED with his name already well know in the World as designer (design jeans) had a very good collection which shows how you  need to make and present vintage denim!!!!
    Retro and Vintage IS IN…….

    Color Trend

    Trend is towards more and more dark colors.

    Style Pattern

    Jeggings for women is an increasingly popular trend with small special designs and smaller legs .

    Fabric Trends

    Slubs are disappearing towards more even qualities . But the fabrics are slightly shiny (achieved with hot calendering and under pressure) .

    Garment Washing Trends

    Trend is more towards unwashed or slightly rinsed washes.

    A Note On Turkish participation

    Turkish brands have paid much attention to the fair and there  were many people on the fair , including brands like  MAVI / CROSS etc.

    Turkey is very important for Europe as supplier and it reflected in the fair. The reasons for this importance are :

     

    -short lead time

    -price / quality is excellent

    -quality is good and consistent and trust full

    -small orders possible to get from Turkey

    -already years experience and regards communication excellent with their

    customers and are very open.

     

    Here are some very cool visuals  from the show .

    BBB BERLIJN 2010 JULY goldscmied

    BBB BERLIJN 2010 COOL DENIM

    BBB BERLIJN 2010 JULY JEGGINS BBB BERLIJN 2010 JULY 024

     

     

    BBB BERLIJN 2010 JULY 038

    BBB BERLIJN 2010 JULY 046

    image

    And here is slideshow for the visuals from the show .

     

    rik

    This is a guest post by Rik Vanniewenborgh who has over 30 years experience in Denim Industry. He has worked over 25 years in the VF Corporation(Belgium) in various capacities (including quality control). This post is from his recent visit to the BBB Berlin Jeans Fair.Contact him on email here

  • Bread & Butter Berlin Jeans Fair July 2009– A Review

    The  BBB Jeans fair (July 2009) was a great success regarding the number of visitors coming from all parts of the world.

    But,the question is still of it was a fair for designers and photographers are where there so many buyers !!.

    The layout of the stands were excellent made and well organised and generally many colours could be seen!!!!

    Here is a brief note on some of the denim brands that were present there.

     

    LEE:

    -garments with holes ,,,,,, no pressing

    -unwashed

    -old and vintage look

    -bigger back pockets!!!! And low positioning

    -loose fit

    -back is the bib overall

     

    101 CONCEPT:

    -Ring/Ring fabrics , The fabrics were japanese – from Kurabo!!

    -Dark and medium washed

     

    WRANGLER:

    -Labels are bigger and colour full

    -Garments are more even,,,,, dark and medium washed (14OZ)

    -No pressing just blowing

    -Very few with dirty wash look

    LEVI’S

    -Black denim for 501——-normal washes !!!!dark/medium/bleached

    -Bleached with holes!!!!

    -Loose fit

    -Unwashed. I have the impression that Levi’s is moving away from the extreme washes.

    -many colours and coarse stitching on the back pockets and embroidery

    Similar  trends I found in brands – COLLIN’S and MAVI jeans (turkey)

    garments.

    Only brands made by ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED you find the extreme washes!!!

    Denim Fabric Trends Noticed:

    1. I have the impression that the most manufactures put more ATTENTION again to the fabric for sure 14OZ!!!
    2. The flamed denim is still in collection (inherent to ring yarns)
    3. Also crosshatch fabrics (R/R) more expensive fabrics are used more
    4. DEEP DYEING and PURE indigo
    5. Shrink to Fit Fabric is becoming HOT. It is weft stretch denim which is not sanforized and has a residual shrinkage of 15% in weft and 15% in warp.Elasticity is about 20-30% . Such fabric was made in the Eighties…

    A Note On TRC – (Denim Mill From Italy)

    TRC PROPOSED The  Selvedge Denim…

    1. Woven on the old Picanol president loom( anno 70 _80)
    2. Shuttle loom (unifill) width of fabric 75 cm
    3. Speed of loom :15O picks/min VERY SLOW

    Same concept was noticed at PH7 -Japanese brand– handcrafted…

    CONCLUSION

    Everyone was a little bit nervous for the further evolution and result AND hoping that after TWO years the economy should improve!!

    BUT now they all should try to overcome the 2 difficult years!! HOW ??

    Note for Denim Companies :

    1. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to present the Fabric in LEG form and washed very well( different washes).
    2. Back pocket on the leg to see the contrast

    This makes the fabric more attractive FOR PRESENTATION.

    Here are some photographs I shot from the fair which show some of the trends noticed at the fair. Specially , notice the large pockets on some of the jeans .

    bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 AG bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag

    bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag

    bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag

    bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag

    bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag back pocket

    bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 lee

    bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 lee

    bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag  denim trend ripped jeans

    bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 pocket size big

    Can’t miss to show this stack of denim

    bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 stack of denim

    And Myself !!!

    bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 rik

    rik

    This is a guest post by Rik Vanniewenborgh who has over 30 years experience in Denim Industry. He has worked over 25 years in the VF Corporation (Belgium) in various capacities (including quality control)and has travelled over around the world living and breathing denim. This post is from his recent visit to the BBB Berlin Jeans Fair.Contact him on email here