For their spring / summer collection 2014 put Citizens of Humanity at three pioneering styles: Maritime details take on a touch of 70’s bohemian , which is mainly the combination of fresh white and rich red and blue colors , in classic Navy tradition lightweight coveralls, as well as the return of flared jeans reflects. We can also see the vintage wash and flare. Military influences and references to the nomadic life found in cargo fits of newly developed materials and a color palette of rich earth tones. Irregular faded washes and patterns, such as the Thalia Jacket, or Charlie Flare, consciously play with the longing for distance and unlimited freedom. As a supplement to the main collection operates the premium vintage line which offers luxurious and contemporary nostalgia. Meet on non-tree-lined materials to create exceptional vintage washes and hand-made details to create an authentic, sophisticated denim distressed look. Specially made ​​labels and hangtags give the line its unique exclusive touch.
Evisu (Japan) has always had a distinct persona as a denim brand. They have always followed their own trends . This effect of hand-painted denim cannot be duplicated and replaced by standardized manufactured jeans, adding a unique personal patina to the pair of jeans.
The famous hand-painted EVISU “Seagull” logo on the back pocket was reminiscent of American vintage jeans during World War II, which at the time had to be printed instead of sewn due to restrictions on thread and other materials essential to the war effort. Over time, the hand-painted logos chipped and faded as the denim would distress- each jean becoming an individually distinctive, and collectible, vintage item in the process. At first, EVISU only managed to produce fourteen jeans a day using its antique looms and insisted to hand-paint the brand’s seagull logo on every single pair of jeans produced.
Today, EVISU still continue to express their obsessive attention to details, having hand-painted jeans service at selected stores. As EVISU uses water-based paints, painted pockets and patterns will gradually fade and the paint will crack naturally after washing and wearing. This effect of hand-painted jeans cannot be duplicated and replaced by standardized manufactured jeans, adding a unique personal patina to the pair of EVISU jeans.
Dirt effect
Crinkled with hand brushed dirt and creases Hand-sand effect around the thigh area Dirt colored effects and scattered bleaching patterns painted
Handbrush effect
Crinkled with hand brushed creases Hand-sand effect around the thigh area Dirt colored effects painted
Ripped effect
Hand-stitch crinkles effects near the waistline, front pocket and the leg-open Dirt colored effects painted on the area around the knees
FDMTL – with a long complete name of Full Agreement Luxury-
is a denim label from Tokyo, Japan which aims to be differentiate itself from other brands in Japan. While most brands in Japan focus on Raw denim, FDMIL’s main emphasis is on distressed denims. They also work out interesting and not so regular looks with their denims. We spoke to the founder and creative designer Tsuyoshi Gaku to know more about the label.
When we asked him about the concept behind his label and its long name, he described :
“FUNDAMENTAL AGREEMENT LUXURY” produces mainly denim garments which are made in the world-wide manufacturing capital for denim Okayama, Japan Their uncompromising products are carefully made with such incredible detail that is difficult to obtain by mass production means.The brand name is derived from the literal interpretation of its words. FUNDAMENTAL AGREEMENT = having a basic agreement with our customers to provide them with quality product. Our promise. LUXURY = suggests that our product is a cut above the rest in every wayâ€
To stress further the make of the brand , he further said :
“FUNDAMENTAL AGREEMENT LUXURY denim is “JAPAN MADE”. This includes the fabric, sewing and manufacturing. The vast knowledge and experience from skilled workmen is put into each product, resulting in detailed special product that you can ‘ t achieve through mass production.
Check out their video on jeans manufacturing here
When we wanted to clarify with him the reason for focusing on distressed denim while most Japanese brands tend to be oriented towards raw denim, he said:
“I like jeans because i think jeans is an industrial product just like TV, iPod etc ,but at the same time, jeans are more like creatures ,because they change…depending on the shape of the person who wears etc…i like the distressing process, and this is why i’m making distress jeans, but i would say it’s an aging jeans jeans in which you can feel the background. And our customers are quite comfortable in distressed jeans. …..All our jeans are hand made, we use small machines too, but work with hands too. For the sewing process, we use vintage sewing machines too – Union Special machines. And the distressing is done by hands and not large laundries.
For its FW’13 collection, FDMTL follows two concepts –
Bi color
Military
Putting 2 or more kinds of fabric together and trying to show new feeling of fabrics is what is the focus for this collection as per Tsuyoshi Gaku . He further says
“i like making clothing only with denim fabric, but for the current season most items are made with the combination of some kinds of fabrics…â€.
Looks from part of his collection follow . The bi-color and bi-fabric combinations are particularly interesting in some of them especially where military fabrics have been conjoined with the denim fabrics. Distressing on some of the jeans is quite intricate and the hard work appreciable. The retail price point of FDML range from $150-$350 .
The Joe’s Jeans fall 2013 lookbook brings out some very cool garments and combos and play around with fabrics, wash and styling to create some very desirable looks . The brand explores Plaids, Camoe motifs, different prints and lot of waxed denim. Choose between preppy accents, bohemian vibes or even sporty chic ensembles with a classy twist . And the accessories to go with the denim are not forgettable either – whether its ankle boots, trendy metallic oxfords, chic pointy toe pumps, cool metallic bracelets . The women clothing are grunge inspired and for those who love edgy and urban garments.
With 1990s inspired looks, the label plays with dark and deep shades of denim – other than pure indigo. The waxed denim , prints (also for men!) , motifs – all add color to the collection .
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About Joe’s : Joe’s Jeans products are the creation of Joe Dahan, the founder and president of Joe’s Jeans, Inc. Joe grew up in Casablanca. A place that fed his eyes with contrasting elements. From attending a private French school, in the colonial period of all white buildings, to walking through what he terms “uncivilized markets”, with wild animals.After leaving Morocco for Los Angeles, and keeping with his rebel spirit, Joe made his initial impact on the fashion world with a menswear line called “Joe the Hun”, casual body-enhancing bohemia wear, offering guys freedom from the Wall Street “American Psycho” prototype.
It may be a cool color coat on one jeans, some nice embellishment on another, another jeans might be an artists canvas painting the ocean on it , one might reflect a reinvention of a famous jeans by mutation, railroad stripes on another might make one of the jeans look like a driver’s haven! Well , we have tried to collect a number of cool looks from some of the well know brand names in one article. Check out and find some very interesting looks on jeans whether its due to their special color, finish, embellishments, prints or whatever !. From brands like Levi’s , Nudie, Gas Jeans, Joe’s etc, these denim looks inspire creativity.. We are not very bothered to find the season to which they pertain or collection which they belong to .. They are just cool jeans !
Our attention was caught by these great looking jeans from the Canadian denim brand – Naked and Famous. Made with 67% cotton, 30% silk and 3% elastane, these ‘Made in Japan’ 12oz fabrics have been stitched into some great jeans in Canada by the brand.
About : Naked & Famous is a denim brand from Canada. It claims that it uses only the most unique and rare denim fabrics from Japan.
In their own words
“ The prestigious mills in Japan, from which we import all our fabric, are committed to producing only the best (and most expensive) denim in the world. Throughout each step in denim production (weaving, dyeing, finishing…) the mills use a combination of old school and modern methods and practices. So much culture and history is poured into the fabric so that it can be appreciated by the denim purist. We keep all our jeans raw and simple. No washes, no embroidery, no gimmicks… just the best fabric in the world combined with modern fits. We have eliminated these costly (and in our opinion unnecessary) after-effects, and have stripped down our jeans to the core essentials. Now true denimheads and newcomers alike can enjoy these special fabrics at a reasonable price.
What’s in the name ?
“The brand name Naked & Famous is a satire of our celeb-obsessed culture. We aim to poke fun at “Hollywood†and “Glamour†brands that sell jeans for $300 and up solely because they are celebrity endorsed, and not because they are higher quality.â€
Gap’s 1969: LA and Beyond fall 2011 campaign has cast real people, and will be based primarily online, with national magazines and point-of-sale media as supporting media, says the company. The new campagin will be rolling out on the brand’s Facebook page and other online destinations magazines including Glamour, GQ, InStyle, People StyleWatch and Vogue.
Developed by Gap’s Global Creative Centeri n NY together with Ogilvy and Cool Hunting Gap’s 1969 studio, creating the company’s denim line, is the ï¬rst to get a treatment by the company’s marketing department to highlight ‘what’s different and inventive at Gap,’ says chief marketing ofï¬cer Seth Farbman.
‘We want our customers to see who’s behind the product and how their individual personalities and lifestyles influence what we offer in our stores around the globe.’
To show that Gap is not just another denim retailer but ,Gap’s new global marketing campaign tells the story of its 1969 fall collection from the inside out. Starting with the personalities behind the denim, 1969: L.A. and Beyond gives a transparent look at the designers and how they come together each day to create the latest in denim fits, fabrics and washes. Taking it from the studio to the real world, the campaign also shows how the denim comes to life in various cities by the people who wear it. All this is perhaps to give a more human and individualistic touch to their 1969 jeans .
Led by creative director Rosella Giuliani (formerly vice president of design and merchandising at Seven For All Mankind), the 1969 design team is a collective of artists, musicians, action sports junkies and trendsetters. Women’s design director, Nicole King-Burroughs, turns to art for style inspiration, while women’s merchant, Masako Konishi, views fashion as more instinct than intellect, applying emotion as opposed to regulated rules to make her fashion choices. Men’s design director, Jason Ferro, brings his background as a rebel skater, surfer and musician to the design table, while men’s merchant, Cale Margol, uses denim as a canvas to tell a modern and progressive story. Wash specialist, Rob Crews, started in the industry when he was just 16 years-old and fell in love with the creative process of taking raw denim into a washed state through different hand treatments. A series of over 30 videos gives a sneak peek into how the collection is made. Here is one of the videos :
Providing further inspiration to the design team, the 1969 studio feels like the personal atelier of a denim architect, not the headquarters of a global brand. Once a cigar factory, the vast and open loft studio is based in the heart of the garment district on West Pico Boulevard in downtown Los Angeles. This Gap denim epicenter is an ever-changing canvas for ideas, featuring art books, mood boards, vintage buttons, Japanese work wear catalogues and back issues of surfer magazines, set against a backdrop of sun-filled floor-to-ceiling bay windows.
“When I first joined Gap, I was surprised by the unexpected, untold stories across the brand—particularly about our people and the real-life experiences and situations they’re inspired by,†said Seth Farbman, Gap’s Chief Marketing Officer. “Fall is our first step in sharing what’s different and inventive at Gap, and we’re starting with our 1969 studio. We want our customers to see who’s behind the product and how their individual personalities and lifestyles influence what we offer in our stores around the globe.â€
Aligned with how people want to discover and share information, 1969: L.A. and Beyond will live primarily in the digital world via a series of video vignettes and sponsored editorial on Gap’s Facebook page and on outlets such as DailyCandy, FabSugar, Glam, Hulu, LookBook, Pandora, Refinery29, RollingStone and TrendCentral. The campaign was developed in Gap’s Global Creative Center in New York, and is designed to be global with different parts of the campaign allowing international markets to balance according to their needs.
To make the campaign more lively , Gap has also launched the Pico Trucks in some cities of US where Tacos (a mexican food) and other items will be served to people who are wearing a Gap product – FREE !
1969 Fall Collection Gap’s 1969 fall collection continues to demonstrate Gap’s commitment to bringing the same premium fabrics and fits as other premium denim brands at a much more accessible price point. Taking denim beyond the five-pocket blue jean, the fall collection explores the idea of “jeanswear meets sportswear.†It evolves the line from jeans to stretch leggings, cords, tailored dress shirts and jackets. With an emphasis on sophisticated fabrics, the collection feels modern and sexy while maintaining a denim lifestyle vibe.
The women’s signature Legging Jean is fresh for fall in a variety of new fabrics and colors, including the Ponte Knit Legging in black and olive, the Gummy Legging in black and khaki, and the Legging Cord in both neutral and pop colors. Also big for fall is the High Rise Pintuck Trouser in a non-traditional indigo denim, the Skinny Boot in black, and the fashion crop in fits such as the Cropped Slim, the High Rise Cropped Straight and the Cropped Boot.
The menswear collection is also focused on signature fits in new fabrics and colors. Highlights include the Drop Crotch Skinny in charcoal, the Slim Trouser in dolphin grey, the Super Skinny Clean in grey and the Slouchy Slim Rocker in black. The collection also features pieces that are either a natural extension of denim or that pair nicely with jeans, including the lightweight chambray jacket, a lightweight denim blazer and tailored dress shirts.
“Fabric and fit are the keys to the fall collection— focal points of every piece. We’ve taken beautiful and interesting fabrics and then tested their reaction to different cuts, washes and dyes. The result is a range of new styles and fits that stretch beyond denim into a broader collection,†said Rosella Giuliani, Gap’s 1969 Creative Director.
Denim prices range from $59.50-$69.50 for more basic styles and $59.95-$89.95 for more fashion-forward styles and higher-end fabrics.
About Gap Inc. Gap Inc. is a leading global specialty retailer offering clothing, accessories, and personal care products for men, women, children, and babies under the Gap, Banana Republic, Old Navy, Piperlime, and Athleta brands. Fiscal year 2010 net sales were $14.7 billion. Gap Inc. products are available for purchase in over 90 countries worldwide through about 3,100 company-operated stores, about 175 franchise stores, and e-commerce sites.
Diesel has launched a new collection marked ‘The Powder of Diesel’. The collection is inspired by the world of pigments in cosmetics – the blushes, eyeshadows, powders and more (ladies would know better..). Diesel wants to give these shades to their denim collection. With bright colors , light fabrics , jegging and other styles , it might just turn out to be a great selection for the summers for the girls ! Diesel took the color denim trend to the next level by adding a secret ingredient: powder.
“Don’t just be cool – be Powderfulâ€!!
What is Diesel + Powder ??
Well , what happens ladies when you get ready everyday using various cosmetics including powder.. If you are in a hurry or have butter fingers, some of the powdery cosmetics get sprayed all over yourself. The powder shines on the jeans or any other dress that you might be wearing. So ! , Diesel decided to do it on purpose to blend cosmetic references with latest innovations in fabric cut and styling. So you will find various colors of powders sprayed over these jeans and this should draw a lot of attention to you and your jeans !
What are the washes done on the Diesel Powder collection ?
Washing is the probably the most crucial element in this collection. So it was in place to see what kind of washes are being done .Here are some of the cool washes for the Diesel powder collection :
1)8Y4 WASH :
The 8Y4 “Sugar Goddess†is one of the star washes of the collection. The dark indigo fabric contains XLA cotton, a Lycra fiber that has been modifi ed to make it especially resistant. The denim undergoes several treatments – including dirty applications – before the all-important Powder of
Diesel pinkish effect is obtained by hand sponging with natural color pigments.
2) 65Z Wash
The 65Z “Glamarama†takes advantage of soft, superstretch lightweight denim fabric. A touch of “Powder†pink is added via manual localized sponging using natural pigments. A luminous effect is obtained by ironing
the denim in the final phase.
3) 8MZ Wash
The 8MZ “Splash of Talc†is another star wash, seen at its best advantage on the Matic fit. A 13 ounce base is softened with a number of complex manual treatments. A final press gives the fabric a luminous summer look. Localized sponging using oxidizing elements on pockets and hems adds further touches of light.
4) 8PT Wash
The 8MZ wash crops up again in a modified form in the 8PT “Dream
Stream†version, seen on the Nevy cut. It’s a broken and destroyed
variation, using a manually applied color spot treatment.
5) 8 NM Wash
Last but not least in this section is the 8NM “Blue Me Away†wash. A
clouded effect is achieved thanks to a combination of an initial sandpaper
treatment and an all-over manual spray treatment. This effect is highlighted by a bleach treatment .
These were some of the cool washes from Diesel on their powder collection . We will cover some more cool washes from Diesel shortly . So keep watching !!
Telegraph UK has come out with an interesting report on Kaihara Denim Mills and Japanese denim . Japanese denim always draws rave reviews about its quality and methods of production which makes it stand apart from other mills around the world. Japanese denim has always been fascinating the denim world due to its great quality, selvedge weaves (on old shuttle looms) and passion for perfection that goes as a very important ingredient . But the report from Telegraph comes out with some interesting facts about Kaihara and Japanese Denim Brand ‘Uniqlo’ which also produces its premium denim range at the same location.
Kaihara denim mill was started in 1893 to manufacture Indigo Kimonos. For those who are not aware – Kimono is a Japanese traditional garment worn by women, men and children.
Kaihara uses a large quantity of Pima cotton from US as it is one of the best cottons in the world. This would come as a surprise for many other denim mills as Pima cotton is hardly used for denim due to its high cost. However, if a top of the line product has to be made, the ingredients have to go in accordingly !.
Rope dyeing technology is used in the manufacture of denim.
Uniqlo jeans are also manufactured in Bangladesh and China to keep the costs down. So what happens is that the jeans made from the best denim mill are available at reasonable prices (eg starting from $39.50 in US !) . So where on the one hand , most premium denim brands are available at prices of &100 and above, Uniqlo manages to bring out jeans made from a great denim fabric at a very reasonable price – making it affordable for masses.
The constant barrage of information on Japanese denim has increased the awareness amongst consumers about the importance of fabrics in the jeans. This has also partly helped a brand like Uniqlo to sell its jeans . The report mentions that Sam Lobban, the menswear buyer at Selfridges, attributes this to an increased awareness among savvy buyers of authentic fabrications.
“What really makes Japanese selvedge so superior is the depth of colour – the specialist washing techniques take to selvedge denim better to give a more 3D and rich colour.’ Just as important as the finish is the shape of the jean. ‘Selvedge denim tends to be on a more "regular" fit,’â€Lobban says.
Something About Uniqlo
It would be in place to say something more about this important Japanese retailer . Uniqlo is a blend of the words "unique" and "clothing" – and 3-4 years ago , it would’ve meant nothing to anyone but the exceptionally well-travelled. The Japanese chain launched itself into the UK in November 2007 by opening two huge new stores in one day (it was actually a relaunch; it tried first in 2001 but scaled back). Since then, its popularity in Britain has exploded. In the midst of the worst recession in Britain since the Second World War, UK sales since Christmas have been up 140 per cent on the same period last year Worldwide, the store says it sells 400 million items a year.
Its New York store in SOHO (the only store in US) is their largest store anywhere in the world with a huge 89000 sq feet of space and an unbelievable rent of $20 million a a year .
Uniqlo already has a prescence in the Chinese market with about 47 stores and has just entered the Russian market. It is eyeing Indian market and is sure to make an entry within an year or two . With the kind of quality of jeans it has, it is surely going to give the existing players (including Levi’s) a run for their money.
Working with over 100 factories throughout Asia, UNIQLO is distinctive in that it combines the quality and craftsmanship that is synonymous with Japanese culture with the ability to manufacture in high volume, thereby offering consumers affordable everyday products with exceptional attention to every detail. For this reason, UNIQLO’s can offer its customers denim from the same denim fabric mill used by many high-end denim brands at a substantial savings. And if you are looking for some customer reviews on Uniqlo, here are some.
It would be interesting to see the prices of some other Japanese denim brands when we are talking about Uniqlo. These prices were posted in our previous post on Blue in Green Soho – Japanese Denim Shop
Denime – $298-$325 Eternal – $255 Evisu Japan – $240-$385 Fullcount & Co. – $275-$330 Momotaro Jeans – $250-$315 Oni Denim – $185-$585 Paul Smith Japan – $325 Pure Blue Japan – $169-$559 Samurai Jeans – $275-$665 Skull Jeans – $240-$350 Somet – $210-$295 Studio D’Artisan – $265-$620 Sugar Cane & Co. – $265-$370 Sunrise Japan – $348-$358 The Real McCoy’s – $248-$368 Warehouse Co. – $245-$275
