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  • Michael Lam – CEO Advance Denim Talks With Denimsandjeans

    Michael Lam – CEO Advance Denim Talks With Denimsandjeans

    Advance Denim was found in 1987 and has the distinction of being the oldest denim mill in China and today, with over 1,100 employees, supplies denim to renowned brands around the globe. We welcome them again in our 6th edition of Denimsandjeans show scheduled to be held on June 26-27 in Ho Chi Minh City , Vietnam and spoke to the CEO Michael Lam to understand about the growth trajectory of the company.

    Advance Denim is one of the oldest Chinese denim mills founded in 1987 and has production units in the south of China and Vietnam. What do you feel about your journey ? Please explain how your company grew over so many years.

    Advance Denim believes in the limitless possibilities of denim innovation and this understanding has fueled its growth over the past 35 plus years . Advance Denim was started in the modern yet traditional city of Shunde in the Guangdong Provence of China and since its inception has dedicated its efforts around the core beliefs of innovation, sustainability, people and quality. Its is these core beliefs that drive our efforts to become a global leader in denim manufacturing. Its is also important to understand that focusing on these foundational principals has been the fuel for our growth . The key is continuous innovation in both product and process . In the past 35 plus years Advance Denim has invested in groundbreaking process innovations such as Bigbox Dyeing that has created a cleaner indigo using 94% less water yet still possessing the same vintage washdown at traditional rope dyed indigo .

    Why do you believe in Vietnam and why do you think it has a great future, especially denim?

    Vietnam not only has a great future in denim manufacturing but it also has a long history of indigo production. So one could say that there is a rebirth of Indigo shifting from ancient traditional tunics made of dyed hemp to innovative modern denim constructions . Advance Denim feels that it is important that its production should be closer garment partners and with the shift from China to Vietnam its was important to shift production as well. Advance Denim is committed to using the years of innovation and expertise to make Advance Sico the best it can be for the long term .

    What are the latest innovative products from your stable which you feel proud about  ?

    We would like to introduce 2 latest innovative products – LYCRA FitSense® and freeCross™.

    We are proud to announce that Advance Denim got the exclusive of the LYCRA FitSense® denim technology which is a unique targeted shaping technology that enables designers to customize targeted stretch zones within each garment and focus on the overall comfort and performance of each style. LYCRA FitSense® denim technology is crafted for comfort and accommodates expansive stretch configurations for maximum shaping goals. This patented technology creates these targeting stretch zones without sacrificing the look and feel of vintage denim.

    Another revolutionary breakthrough technology – freeCross™ by Advance Denim, it uses the latest patented high-tech weaving technology realizes an unique 360° elastic denim fabric with high levels of stretch, recovery and low shrinkage makes the size of garment more stable and solves the shortcomings of the conventional 4-way stretch fabric.
    European governments are steadily coming out with regulations relating to sustainability. How do these regulations affect you – are you changing your technologies to be ready for the same?

    We are more than ready for the European Green Deal and new EU regulations. Driven by our passion for innovation, sustainability, people, and quality, we continuously invested in the most advanced sustainable technologies to make our high innovative true to denim collections while minimizing the water, gas and electricity consumption and reducing the carbon footprint in all stages of the development and production process.

    Advance Denim has subscribed to The United Nations Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action and is certified for Blue Sign, Jeans Redesign (Ellen MacArthur Foundation), Clean Design, ISO 14001, ZDHC, Higg Index >88, GOTS, BCI, GRS, OCS, RCS, OEKOTEKS (100/green), ZDHC, … We are using over 90% of green fibres, have a state-of-the-art closed-loop water treatment system combining reverse osmosis with ultrafiltration and plan to fully run on renewable energy by 2030 (40% in 2025).

    In our China mill we developed and indigo and colour (botanic dyes) dyeing technology called BigBox which is using 93% less water, 34% less chemicals and 40% less energy compared to traditional indigo dyeing.

    Also in our denim mill in Vietnam, Advance Sico, we keep pushing the sustainable boundaries. Advance Sico is the first denim mill in Vietnam to certify with GRS, GOTS and OCS certificates.

    Next to the eco-friendly manmade fibres (Tencel, Refibra, Naia Renew), natural fibres (Hemp), recycled nylon from fishing nets (InResST) and recycled cotton (Salvage collection), we are promoting regenerative cotton from Good Earth Cotton (Australia) which is backed by FibreTrace.

    At Sico we only use liquid indigo, including aniline free and hydrosulfite-free indigo. To further reduce the energy use and carbon emissions we are planning to install a photovoltaic system (a system that converts the sun’s radiation, in the form of light, into usable electricity) for using green energy on the production line as much as possible and reducing carbon emissions at the same time.

    What are the main products that you shall be showcasing in the Denimsandjeans Vietnam show in June?

    Our collection name as follow:

    — FreeCross

    — 100% FIT

    — EcoCool

    — AirLock

    Please visit their booth at Denimsandjeans Vietnam for more details on these products.

  • Mujeebullah Khan, CEO iTextiles® Talks With Denimsandjeans

    Mujeebullah Khan, CEO iTextiles® Talks With Denimsandjeans

    iTextiles® is a multi-disciplinary textile solutions company that creates, manages and innovates the entire value chain in performance textiles. Started in 2006 as a trading concern for fibers, the company has rapidly evolved to become a leading value chain manager in the region, supplying raw material to and representing some of the biggest international companies and their brands. We welcome them as our exhibitor in 6th edition of Denimsandjeans Vietnam show on June 26-27. We had a word with Mr. Mujeeb regarding their latest innovations.

    iTextiles® is a company operating in multiple products and regions. Can you tell us more about your company? 

    iTextiles® is a dynamic player in the textile industry, offering a diverse range of solutions across multiple products and regions. Established in 2006 initially as a trading concern for fibers, our company has rapidly evolved into a leading value chain manager in the region.

    Today, iTextiles® stands as a trusted partner representing some of the industry’s biggest names, including INVISTA®, The LYCRA Company, Eastman, Earth Protex, The Flax Company, IFF, Lanxess, Mitsui, DSM and many more. With a commitment to innovation and excellence, we manage the entire value chain in performance textiles, ensuring quality raw materials for our partners.

    Recently, iTextiles® has achieved significant milestones by obtaining GRS (Global Recycled Standard) and RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) certifications. These certifications underscore our dedication to sustainability and responsible sourcing practices, further enhancing our credibility in the industry.

    Our integrated approach incorporates research and development, testing, market generation, sourcing, branding, manufacturing, and sales. This holistic strategy enables us to provide tailored solutions for every textile need, whether in fashion, workwear, military, or home textiles.

    At iTextiles®, sustainability is at the core of our operations. Our products are not only environmentally friendly but also offer superior comfort, durability, and performance. With our international standards of quality, we strive to accelerate innovation and create value for our clients, empowering them with solutions that best meet their business requirements.

    Why do you think sustainability in fibers is getting more important?

    In essence, sustainability in fibers is of paramount importance due to the pressing environmental concerns and the depletion of vital resources. Let me elaborate on why this issue holds such significance.

    Firstly, natural fibers like cotton, hemp, and jute are cultivated naturally, with minimal environmental impacts, while synthetic fibers often involve resource-intensive processes and contribute to pollution.

    Secondly, natural fibers are sourced from renewable materials like plants or wood, making them a sustainable choice that can be replenished, unlike synthetic alternatives.

    Moreover, natural fibers are biodegradable, breaking down naturally and reducing waste, unlike synthetic fibers, which persist in the environment for centuries.

    Additionally, the production of natural fibers typically requires less energy compared to synthetic fibers, contributing to lower carbon emissions.

    Furthermore, the textile industry is recognized as one of the largest contributors to global pollution. Shockingly, 92 million tons of textile waste is generated annually worldwide, with 87% of clothing materials and fibers ending up in incinerators or landfills. This alarming statistic underscores the urgent need for sustainable measures within the industry.

    To address this waste issue, the textile industry must transition towards sustainable practices, embracing the principles of the 3Rs: reusing, recycling, and reducing. By implementing these measures, we can mitigate the environmental impact of textile production and contribute to a more sustainable future.

    How does iTextiles® try to bring more focus to sustainable fibers? 

    iTextiles® is committed to championing sustainability by continuously evolving and expanding our portfolio to include a wide range of sustainable fibers. Our efforts extend not only within the Pakistani manufacturing industry but also to international brands, promoting the widespread adoption of sustainable practices.

    Here’s an overview of our Sustainable Fiber Portfolio:

    • Natural Fibers: We prioritize renewable inputs, including sustainable Hemp fiber, Linen, and LYCRA® fiber made with QIRA®, harnessing the power of nature for eco-friendly textile production.
    • Recycled Fibers: Embracing the circular economy, we utilize recycled content in our fibers:
      • LYCRA® EcoMade incorporates 20% pre-consumer recycled content.
      • COOLMAX®  EcoMade, THERMOLITE®  EcoMade, and LYCRA® T400®  EcoMade are crafted from textile waste and PET bottles, ensuring sustainable production.
      • Tex2Tex™ is derived 100% from pre-consumer polyester yarn and textile waste.
      • NAIA™ combines 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp with 40% certified recycled waste material.
      • SMART LINEN utilizes 100% pre-consumer textile waste, contributing to waste reduction.
      • MARMARA® ORIGINAL introduces sustainable hemp fiber, showcasing innovation with first cottonized hemp.
      • Q – NOVA incorporates more than 50% recycled material in its fiber composition.
    • Sustainable Viscose: Our sustainable viscose offerings include VILOFT® & VESITA®, crafted from responsibly managed plantations that are 100% biodegradable.
    • Additionally, our CIRCULOSE® range offers variants with 70% or 50% sustainably sourced wood pulp combined with post-consumer 100% cellulosic recycled content.
    • Durable Solutions:  We believe durability is a cornerstone of sustainability. Hence, we offer solutions like LYCRA® Adaptiv®, LYCRA® Freefit, LYCRA® Antislip®, DYNEEMA®, CORDURA®, PROTEX®, and more, enhancing the longevity of garments and minimizing environmental impact through extended product lifespan.

    By prioritizing sustainable fibers and durability solutions, iTextiles® is dedicated to fostering a more environmentally conscious textile industry, paving the way for a greener and more sustainable future.

    We thank you for joining the Denimsandjeans event for the first time . Why do you think Vietnam is important as a market? What products would you like to promote in this market 

    Vietnam has indeed emerged as a significant player in the global economy, drawing attention from businesses worldwide. There are several reasons why Vietnam holds importance as a market:

    Firstly, Vietnam displays one of Southeast Asia’s most rapidly growing economies. Its openness to trade and investment, combined with its comparative advantage in low-cost labor, has been instrumental in propelling its economic trajectory.

    Secondly, Vietnam has been proactive in establishing bilateral trade agreements with countries across the globe in recent years, further enhancing its position as a vital market for international businesses.

    Moreover, Vietnam’s demographics are compelling, with a large population of nearly 100 million consumers, half of whom are under the age of thirty. This demographic profile, coupled with a rising middle class, sets the stage for sustained growth in the coming decades.

    Additionally, Vietnam has established itself as a manufacturing hub, particularly in sectors like electronics and textiles, contributing significantly to its economic expansion.

    In a nutshell, Vietnam’s economic dynamism, robust trade relations, growing GDP, political stability, and demographic potential collectively render it an attractive market for businesses seeking growth opportunities in Asia.

    As for iTextiles®, we aim to promote our entire product portfolio in Vietnam, with a particular focus on our yarns and fabrics. Given Vietnam’s promising textile industry and its role as a manufacturing hub, we believe our high-quality yarns and fabrics will resonate well with the market, catering to the diverse needs of manufacturers and consumers alike.

    How do you see Pakistan evolving in near future in all aspects of denim production, particularly concerning sustainability?

    Well, looking ahead, I see Pakistan continuing its impressive journey in denim production, with a strong emphasis on sustainability. Over the past decade, Pakistan has swiftly emerged as a key Denim Hub in the region, supplying top-notch denim to leading global brands. Currently, it ranks among the top three denim manufacturers in Asia, which speaks volumes about its growing influence in the industry.

    Our denim exports are thriving, with major markets like Bangladesh, Turkey, and others relying on Pakistan for quality denim fabrics. We have a robust infrastructure comprising numerous denim mills and factories, thanks to our rich history in textile manufacturing.

    In recent years, Pakistan’s denim industry has experienced remarkable growth, driven by factors such as our vast labor force, competitive pricing, and favorable trade agreements with key markets like the US and the EU.

    As we delve deeper into sustainability within the denim segment, it’s noteworthy to mention the increasing utilization of recycled materials, including fiber, yarn, and fabric, in the production of new denim products. Statistics reveal that the global upcycled denim products market size was valued at $392.5 million in 2021 and is projected to reach $838.6 million by 2031, growing at a CAGR of 7.9% from 2022 to 2031. These figures underscore the growing importance and economic potential of sustainable practices within the denim industry.

    Sustainability has now become a crucial focus for Pakistan Industry. As the industry embraces eco-conscious practices and innovations, Pakistan is prepared to lead the charge in sustainable denim production. This commitment aligns with our goal of not only maintaining our position in the global denim landscape but also ensuring a greener, more responsible future for the industry.

    How do you see iTextiles®’ role in shaping the future of denim production, especially in terms of sustainability?

    iTextiles® plays a pivotal role in advancing sustainability within the textile industry. We are committed to promoting sustainable practices by not only providing sustainable raw materials but also by introducing and educating manufacturers on adopting cutting-edge sustainable fiber technologies.

    Our efforts extend beyond mere material supply; we also offer invaluable global consumer insights. This empowers manufacturers to diversify their product offerings to meet the evolving demands of consumers. By understanding market trends, we enable the production of denim jeans tailored not only for workwear and casual wear but also for leisure and activewear, thus contributing to a more sustainable and consumer-centric denim industry.

  • Metod Makine : A Talk With Our Vietnam Team

    Metod Makine : A Talk With Our Vietnam Team

    Metod Makine has been dealing with the production of denim jeans dry process machines and equipments since 2002. . It creates solutions for the textile industry to reflect the final images of current fashion trends on products. We welcome them in our 6th edition of Denimsandjeans Vietnam show on June 26-27 and spoke with Ismail Cakal on what are the latest technologies that they are working on and bringing to the show.


    Metod Makine has been providing denim processing machineries to the industry for over 20 years now. How has been your growth in these years? 

    We as Metod Makine stepped into the sector in 2002 with an uninterrupted and quality service approach. We started to produce Spray Application Cabinets and supply some accessories in the first years. Over time, we added Curing Ovens, 3D Crinkle Effect Machines and Apparatus, and many other Dry Process Equipments to our product range. In 2006 we made our first export to Pakistan. Market share has gradually increased at both domestic and international markets over the years thanks to the quality of the machines that we produced and the after-sales service that we gave. In addition to the upgrading & improving the existing machines with the feedback that we received from end users, we also contributed some new equipments to the sector with our innovative vision. In 2019, Metod Makine became the 3rd company that produces its own Robot in the world by using its own capital.  We still continue to serve to our existing and new customers with Wet Process Machineries and Ozone Application Systems. So far we have successed to export our machines over 40 countries. We keep going on visiting new customers and participating in fairs in target markets in order to increase this number every year

    How do you think the requirements of brands are changing and how are you adapting your machinery for the same. 

    There is no doubt that, like everything else, fashion changes over time and new trends come out. This situation is directly reflected in our dressing style in daily life. Perhaps we can say that the changes in our daily lives force brands to make changes in this direction. For instance, in recent years we have experienced a pandemic that affected us all. With the remote working method that the pandemic process brought to our lives, the dress code has been eliminated and people have gotten used to dressing more comfortably. To give an example from the sector we serve, we see that especially young people prefer more comfortable dresses such as jogger & sweat pants, loose and wide-cut clothes instead of denim jeans. Inevitably, this change in dressing preferences lead brands to produce in this direction. As a textile machinery manufacturer, we follow the brands closely. In this regard, we constantly keep ourselves informed of developments by the feedback that we receive from our customers and by fair visits that shape the future of our industry.

    Why do you think Vietnam is an important market and how do you see its growth over the next few years? 

    If we evaluate in terms of textile sector, it is one of the important sources of income of the country, along with the agriculture, construction, mining and oil sectors. With its young and dynamic population, it has a very good production potential not only for local brands but also for international brands in terms of workforce. We think that the increase in production capacities, especially with the commercial agreements made with USA and EU, will increase the need for machinery, which are the main investment products. For this reason, Vietnam is an important country that we follow closely.

    Investment in sustainability is definitely good but do you think that with brands not able to pay extra prices, manufacturers like yours can help the garment producers in some way to overcome their challenges. 

    Unfortunately, some fragile economies, including Turkiye, were greatly affected by the economic difficulties experienced after the pandemic. As a sustainable machinery manufacturer, our production costs have inevitably increased due to increasing costs such as labor, energy, materials, logistics, etc. Despite the factors such as high costs and increasing competition, we are carrying out certain studies to ensure that our products reach more users. In addition to giving our customers the best possible price, we can also offer payment terms that vary depending on the total sales amount. For this purpose we benefit from the services of Turkish Eximbank to support our customers.

    What are your expectations from Denimsandjeans Show in Vietnam

    We see this 2-day of show as an opportunity to meet with participants from both Vietnam and nearby countries and to share latest trends, technologies and solutions.

  • “Denim in 2030″ | A talk by Florian Schneider @ Denimsandjeans Vietnam

    “Denim in 2030″ | A talk by Florian Schneider @ Denimsandjeans Vietnam

    Denimsandjeans Vietnam show concluded with an affirmative response on March 1-2, 2023, from all around the world. All the major local and international brands joined the show making it a huge success. There were a lot of great seminars and presentations during the 2- day show. Here, we are bringing you the detailed article by Mr. Florian Schneider, Founder YellowCrank Creative, Ex-Director Sourcing PVH Far East. His broad experience in design, product development, manufacturing, and supply chain analysis has given Florian a deep understanding of customers’ needs and how technology can transform operations and help manage complex global supply chains. Before looking out for the latest technology in cycling and apparel for YellowCrank Creative, he led the Denim Centre of Excellence for PVH in Asia.

    The topic of his talk was Denim in 2030, and some of its major highlights are mentioned below:

    • In 2030 garments might look the same, but when looking closer, a lot will have changed.
    • To understand what will change, we have to understand trends because changes are based on trends. The societal trends impacting our industry are Sustainability, Transparency & Traceability, and Customization.

    Sustainability: The denim industry’s principal sustainability concerns comprise microfiber pollution, CO2 emissions, circularity, and chemistry. Given that CO2 can remain in the atmosphere for approximately one millennium, any reduction in emissions would still result in its accumulation. Similarly, non-biodegradable sources of microfiber pollution exacerbate the issue, with approximately 500,000 tons of microfiber from textiles released into the environment annually. Timely and decisive measures are imperative to mitigate this challenge, particularly in light of the microfiber’s shape, which exacerbates its impact compared to microplastic pollution. Thus, it is crucial to prioritize preventive measures early in the textile life cycle to achieve effective pollution mitigation in a cost-efficient manner. To this end, the EU is developing regulations to control microfiber pollution, and CO2 regulations are also gaining traction. Notably, a new law proposal currently under discussion in the U.S. would require public companies based in the U.S. and foreign firms listed on U.S. stock exchanges to report on scope 3 emissions, thereby necessitating data on their suppliers.In the context of circularity, regulatory scrutiny intensifies, with the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles emerging as a critical driver. The commission is poised to establish obligatory eco-design requirements that are product-specific and aimed at enhancing textile performance by prioritizing durability, reusability, repairability, fiber-to-fiber recyclability, and compulsory recycled fiber content. These measures are slated to take effect by 2030.

    Regarding the chemical aspect, there are currently limited regulatory developments, but a global convergence or consolidation of diverse standards on the MRSL (Manufacturing Restricted Substances List) and RSL (Restricted Substances List) fronts is anticipated. Multiple brands have distinct RSL requirements that vary by jurisdiction, be it in the U.S. or for shipping to Europe, thereby complicating matters for suppliers and brands. The existence of multiple standards is unwarranted, and consolidation would likely be advantageous.

    Transparency and Traceability: Consumers demanding transparency, combined with the sustainability goals of brands and increasing regulatory requirements, indicates that traceability solutions will become increasingly prevalent in our value chains. A few years ago, these solutions were still in the Proof of Concept stage, but they are now scaling up to become large-scale programs. Regulations pertaining to transparency and traceability are either in effect or on the horizon. For instance, the U.S. Forced Labor Prevention Act, which requires U.S. companies to disclose their product’s origin, became effective on December 21. France implemented a due diligence law in 2017, and the EU proposed a similar law in 2022. Additionally, the Norwegian transparency act will take effect this year, and the EU proposed a digital product passport in March 2022. Traceability and transparency must be ensured across all tiers, from raw materials to end-of-life. This enables us to trace the material source and manufacturers involved all the way back to the cotton field. When products are recycled, traceability enables the fiber recycling or sorting company to scan information about the product. Several innovative firms are developing traceability solutions using various technologies, such as impregnating fibers. In general, traceability solutions can be categorized as physical tracing providers and platform services that enable digital tracing verification. Some companies offer both.

    Customization is another prominent trend with a broader definition that includes personalized shopping experiences and customized garments. Deloitte’s 2020 report estimates that fully customizable apparel could claim a market share of 10% to 30% by 2030. Although the exact market share is uncertain, this trend is worth monitoring. In this space, developments to be observed closely are micro-factories, automation that allows for smaller size runs and faster production, brands that sell on-demand, like Asphalt, virtual try-on technology like magic mirrors, body scanning solutions, and personalized shopping solutions. Ultimately, customization in all its forms allows for a higher degree of control and satisfaction for the consumer, leading to a stronger emotional connection to the brand and product.

    Technology

    Let’s quickly look at the rapid technological advancements enabling all the changes:

    • Computing/ quantum computers – e.g., for forecasting and enabling faster renders. Google plans to make quantum computers commercially available by 2027.
    • Biotechnology*powered by AI      –  for new fibers, and new finishes.
    • Robotics/Automation – progress in garment finishing machine connectivity. Whilst the development is not rapid at the moment, we can expect some more significant inroads to be made by 2030.
    • AI – for forecasting, fiber development, spinning, weaving, sewing, and creative processes. Applications exist already, and with greater capability in increased interest and funding, the use of AI will be widespread.

    Currently, AI is trained on one billion parameters. That’s not one billion data points, but it means that each data point has one trillion parameters. Just a few years back, it was 100 million parameters, and then a few years back of that, it was a million. This is exponential growth.

    Figure 1: The exponential rise of AI

    Now let’s finally jump to the year 2030, and let me introduce Tom, the consumer.

    In 2030, Tom’s year has been going well so far, but upon stumbling upon a picture of an Indian celebrity on Instagram, he realizes it is time to update his look. He likes the denim jacket that the celebrity wears and sends it to his shopping assistant app, which promptly suggests three options tailored to his preferences, appearance, past shopping experience, and likes on various platforms. Tom previews himself or his avatar wearing the jacket and walking down a virtual Fifth Avenue. As a sustainable shopper, Tom checks out the mill and recognizes the name from a tweet by Rihanna. He takes a virtual tour of the mill and reviews its social and ecological performance. Satisfied, he adds the mill to his list of preferred suppliers so that the app prioritizes products made with fabric from that mill the next time he shops. Despite the made-to-order jacket taking five weeks to arrive, Tom purchases it. The app provides him with the correct size based on his most recent body scan from a physical store, which is a quick and standard procedure.

    The Brand in 2030

    The purchasing methods of the Brand have undergone significant changes since the inventory shocks of the early 2020s and subsequent legislation in the EU and US prohibiting the destruction of unsold stock. While the Brand still predominantly produces garments upfront, the use of predictive AI has greatly improved demand forecast. Furthermore, new styles are now tested on the market before mass production, either through launches in the metaverse or small production runs in onshore micro-factories. A growing proportion of styles are produced on demand, as technological advancements have led to speed increases. Concurrently, an increasing number of customers are willing to wait for their orders.

    The Brand’s designers use AI to analyse trends and sales performance to develop styles and collections aligned with the brand’s identity. The digital product design process has replaced tech packs, allowing for modifications to be made from any end. For instance, a text-based request to increase sustainability may prompt AI to suggest a different wash process, which is visually represented in 3D and technically modified in a revised laundry recipe. Adjusting the 3D garment leads to a revised pattern, marker, and costing. Recyclability is another crucial parameter that changes based on design input. Crucial, since in 2030, the apparel industry will have regulations similar to those in the electronics industry, requiring retailers to take back garments for recycling purposes.

    CO2 emissions are now monitored on a style-by-style basis.

    With the advancements in AI freeing up resources in design, product development, and merchandising, these resources are now directed towards branding and sustainability efforts, as well as keeping up with the accelerating technology and other forward-thinking brands that pose a threat to the Brand’s business.

    With upcoming regulatory pressure, sustainability Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) will become an integral part of the process. Sustainability now being an essential component of the KPIs of all stakeholders, including designers, buyers, sourcing teams, and leadership, leads finally to significant changes towards sustainable practices in the industry.

    Figure 2: The central role of the virtual garment and DPC (digital product creation) in 2030

    The Manufacturer in 2030

    The manufacturer has undergone significant changes, driven by increased transparency and advancements in technology. The integration of AI technologies into operations has resulted in increased efficiency and a shift in employee roles towards technical and administrative positions. In the mid-2020s, many suppliers faced challenges with increased transparency; however, new regulations and industry efforts have led to the standardization of protocols related to chemical use, carbon emissions, and social requirements. This has made it easier to deal with customers and jurisdictions of different shipping destinations. The increased traceability and visibility in the supply chain have led to garment makers, mills, and companies further upstream becoming brands in the eyes of consumers. A new generation of shoppers now selects clothing based less on the apparel brand and more on the companies involved in making them. With this increased visibility and reputation, garment makers increasingly engage in direct-to-consumer business using the onshore micro-factories initially set up to serve apparel brands. This allows for made-to-order products at a competitive price and speed. As a result, good manufacturers now often rate higher in public trust than the average apparel brand, shifting the power balance between apparel brands and manufacturers. However, not only manufacturers are now in the public eye. Mills, cotton farmers, fiber suppliers, and trim suppliers, as well as any company upstream, are now also subject to public scrutiny, for better or worse.

    In summary: The Jeans in 2030

    Will be made from different materials:

    • Only biodegradable fibers
    • Minimum of 98% cellulose-based fibers
    • At least 50% recycled content
    • No leather
    • Dissolvable threads

    There will be full traceability:

    • For all material
    • Blockchain-enabled
    • Visible to the consumer

    Every jeans will have a digital twin:

    • The one version of the truth
    • Used for brand purposes, manufacturing, and by consumer

    The jeans will be wanted:

    • Produced with a more accurate forecast
    • A more personal connection to the consumer

    For more information, you can contact Mr. Florian at florian@email.de.

  • Jomu @ Denimsandjeans Vietnam

    Jomu @ Denimsandjeans Vietnam

    Jomu Textile is a leading producer of denim fabric in Vietnam and they specialize in high-quality denim fabric production. With a production capacity of over 2 million yards per month, they are well-equipped to meet the needs of customers with bulk orders. They are now participating at the Denimsandjeans Vietnam Show on March 1-2 and invite all interested buyers to come and visit their booth at number 8. Don’t miss this opportunity to find out more about their products.

    And we spoke to their Director , Nicolas Koehl who answered questions about his company and product range.

    Jomu is a low profile denim company with a very different model of business. Can you share how it works and how it developed?

    The Jomu business model was actually inspired by making detailed observations of the hypercompetitive Chinese domestic market. We found in Guangzhou especially, the factories would specialize on specific parts of the production process, so for example, you can find factories that only specialize in dyeing denim, or only weaving or finishing. So the idea that you can specialize to the point where you just focus on what you’re good at really made sense to us. We found ourselves with top of the line high quality machines, tons of manufacturing potential, but with limited reach into the traditional brand market where new fabric designs are constantly needed, and sales cycles are more than 6 months long.

    • So we decided that we would focus on providing our production capacity to customers who already knew what they wanted, and would supply the yarns necessary to weave it. We like to call it a “processing” business model.

    With this processing approach, Jomu has been able to differentiate itself from other denim companies and gain recognition among a new generation of denim enthusiasts.

    Covid years must have been very difficult. How did survival happen during these times?

    The Covid-19 pandemic has had a tremendous effect on the global economy, with many businesses struggling to stay afloat. We were no exception, we saw orders for export being cancelled or greatly reduced during this time.

    • Our domestic processing customers became our core focus during this time, and this was the key to success. Times were especially challenging during the Vietnam imposed lockdowns from July’21 until October’21.
    • Given our shipping to domestic customers was blocked anyway, our company decision was to close during the lockdown period and wait for things to return to normal. This was a very difficult time for everyone, but coming out of it we were able to run at over 90%+ capacity almost immediately onwards.

    3) How do you keep innovation moving at Jomu?

    One of our main efforts in the most recent years was to focus on innovation in the energy efficiency space.

    • We can all feel the rising cost pressure in the economy, and the best way to get through times like these is to find ways to reduce the energy cost per meter of fabric. It is important to keep innovating in order to remain competitive.

    It is my strong conviction that investments in this space are a key differentiator and will put us in a strong growth position when things improve again. Even simply looking inside the factory and challenging established ways of doing things can lead to innovative changes, and this should be something that is encouraged in every team!

    4) What key products you focus on so that your unique service to clients is valued more and more. What would be your focus areas during the Denimsandjeans Vietnam show.

    Jomu X Denimsandjeans
    Jomu Textiles

    Right now, we want to promote our unique business model to make other people aware of what we do. A lot of our customers are other denim producers looking for more capacity or just close access to the Vietnam garment market in terms of logistics. Our expertise in the local market makes us a valuable partner for anyone looking to get closer to the Vietnam market.

    5) Why do you believe in Vietnam and why do you think it has a great future in textiles, especially denim.  

    One must always consider the long term trend in a country. Vietnam has a vibrant, young and growing population. They are increasingly receiving better education and training each year, eager to make a name for themselves on the world stage. With such an enthusiastic and capable workforce, Vietnam has all the right ingredients to become the go-to destination for denim production.

    People are noticing, and the view that China was the only place to buy denim fabric is no longer widely held. The domestic market is huge and people love wearing jeans and being stylish here: there will surely be a positive future for everyone involved.

    In summary, Vietnam is well-positioned to become a major player in denim production in the coming years due to its vibrant economy and young population that is becoming more educated every year.

    To check out their collection, register here

    For more information, you can contact Nicolas at nick@kohl.li

  • TCE @ Denimsandjeans Vietnam Event 2023

    TCE @ Denimsandjeans Vietnam Event 2023

    TCE is the number 1 vertically integrated denim supplier from fabric to washing in Southeast Asia – providing sustainable, quality denim fabrics since 1956. With a denim fabric capacity of 3.5 million yards per month and of 1.3 million garments per month, they are one of the largest and longest-running denim manufacturers in Asia.
    The company shall be participating in the Denimsandjeans Vietnam event on March 1-2 at HCM and showcasing their latest products made with clean technologies and sustainable processes. We spoke to the Fabric Sales Director of TCE Denim Alex Cha to know more about the company’s operations and vision .

    TCE is well known as one of the first denim mills in Asia – leading and inspiring the industry in this part of the world . Can you share some important milestones in the growth of the company?

    TCE has grown to become one of the leading denim mills in Asia. Established in 1956, in South Korea and started Vietnam production in 2013 vertically operating from Denim fabric to Garment manufacturing. TCE is committed to continuously produce high quality products that meet market needs, and their commitment has resulted in the company’s successful growth and expansion over the years.

    • The first milestone of our growth is to adopt “One Stop Shopping” in ONE place by vertically integrated full package service for our customers while reducing transit time and relevant cost significantly under volatile global SCM. In addition, we continue to invest in full sustainability from innovative materials to production facilities without compromising fashion and trend.
    • The second milestone was the company’s adoption of a fully sustainable model. The current wastewater treatment is different from others. We treat wastewater as A grade quality followed by local government regulation. However, we feel that this process is not enough till zero discharge is achieved considering the well being of current and future generations. After treatment, the A grade water goes through carbon sand tank filtration, and then through Ultra filtration one more time. Finally Reverse Osmosis Membrane filtration process is done. The result is drinking level quality water.

    Then we prepare for sustainable collections from eco-friendly materials and communicate with valuable customers every single year. In addition, we constantly investigate and upgrade our facilities for medium and long term eco sustainability.

    The themes for 2022 and 2023 are Saving Earth Denim and Denim X Nature respectively.

    The installation of the denim mill and denim garment manufacturing unit in Vietnam were perhaps the biggest steps taken by your company in recent years. How has the integrated operation been successful in providing a package offer to the brands?

    The Simple is the Best, Through TCE’s well-organized vertical operation from fabric to garment.

    Affordable fast fashion with effective production based on consumer needs in one location and streamlined procedures.

    It is transitioning from an annual focus on fabric and garments just to a full package trend and swift client response. Several FTA benefits, including those made in Vietnam (EU-VIETNAM FTA, EU-JAPAN FTA, CPTTP), boost cost competitive advantage and expansion to the countries.

    Your collections are well appreciated by the customers. What specific products or collections would you be focusing on during the Denimsandjeans Event in Vietnam in March?

    Sustainability is not an option, but an essential thing. TCE wants to introduce two themes, “Denim by Nature” and “Saving Earth Denim” as new innovative materials focusing on sustainability.

    With Denim x Nature , we believe everyone recognizes cotton is highly water and chemical intensive crop. TCE strives to study and develop many natural fibers can be alternative cotton as much as we can such as Soy, Sisal, Kapok, Abaca and Pineapple, Banana thru Tropical trees in East Asia.

    Our goal is to present the audience with stylish apparel pieces that are not only attractive but also functional in nature. We believe that our collections will impress the customers at Denimsandjeans event owing to their innovative use of fabric technologies.

    Denim Event
    Denim Vietnam

    With Saving Earth Denim, Saving planet for next generation, TCE produces many products using recycled resources from wasted ocean fish net, pet bottle, agricultural wastes and biodegradable products such as Fish Net Denim, Mermaid Denim, Bioplastic Denim, Pre/Post consumer waste cotton, and so on.

    Denimsandjeans Event
    Denim Exhibition
    Vietnam Exhibition
    Denimsandjeans Event
    Denimsandjeans Event

    How do you see Vietnam evolving and providing more value to global customers ?

    Vietnam is garnering more attention as it develops into an Asian manufacturing hub with numerous FTA benefits and more stringent China C/O restrictions.

    Next to sustainability, transparency and traceability are becoming the norm and of utmost importance. TCE is ready to offer all pertinent documentation to customers worldwide.

    2022 has been a tough year for all. How do you see 2023?

    • Given the potential for a slowing global economy and sluggish consumer demand, 2023 is likely to be another year with significant prospects and challenges.
    • Consumer demand plummeted due to lingering global pandemic effects, causing companies and brands to re-evaluate their operations. To stay afloat, many firms are continuing to diversify their sourcing strategies and strengthening relationships with key vendors in response to the volatile market environment as well as keep sourcing sustainability and transparent supply chain.
    • In addition, we are trying to provide more valuable products to buyers as the demand for jeans continues even in the event of an economic crisis .

    I think this is our own challenge regardless of the change in the external environment.

    Visit our website for Denimsandjeans Vietnam to register and visit the show. To read about our other exhibitions, check here

    For more information , you can contact Alex at alex@tcedenim.com

  • XDD @ Denimsandjeans Vietnam Event 2023

    XDD @ Denimsandjeans Vietnam Event 2023

    We are thrilled to announce that XDD will be participating in the 5th edition of Denimsandjeans Vietnam event, set to take place at Riverside Palace in Ho chi Minh City, Vietnam, on March 1-2, 2023.

    This milestone marks the company’s first attendance at the Denimsandjeans event. The two-day event promises to offer insight into new trends, best practices, and Xdd’s commitment towards developing technologies that promote sustainability. We spoke to the Director of XDD Vietnam Mr Man Ng to know more about the company’s operations and vision .

    XDD textiles has recently set up a denim mill in Vietnam . Our readers would like to know more about XDD and its background, growth etc.

    XDD TEXTILE is a spinning and denim mill based in Vietnam. Also, all of our cotton is purchase from U.S. with different certifications. Eg; Cotton Trust Protocol. Sustainability is one of our strength, because of our RO system’s potential to achieve 50%, we have an overall water recycling rate of 80% this year, and we expect to reach 100% by 2025. Our fabric quality may give you a simple solution to get the vintage or marble look, coming with a great colors cast, which is our key competitive advantage over other mills. The foreword states that we work closely with Lenzing and combine different types of materials to make better products, such as blending or adding recycled cotton, employing PCW materials, such as EcoVero.

    Vietnamese Denim

    With the denim mill in Vietnam , how is the company able to serve its global customer base? Why do you think Vietnam is becoming increasingly important?

    With the denim mill in Vietnam, the company is better placed to serve its global base of customers due to the recently concluded European Union-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement. This agreement is a new generation FTA between Viet Nam and 28 European Union member states, providing a wide range of opportunities for companies from both sides.

    • Eliminating 99% of all tariffs
    • Reducing regulatory barriers and overlapping red tape
    • Ensuring protection of geographical indications
    • Opening up services and public procurement markets
    • Making sure the agreed rules are enforceable

    The agreement removes tariffs and other barriers that have hindered trade in the past, making it easier for companies to do business in either region. This agreement also includes improved access for service providers and investors as well as provisions on intellectual property rights, which makes it easier for innovative companies to protect their inventions.

    Vietnam is becoming increasingly important due to its strategic geographic location and its rapidly developing economy. With the EU-Vietnam FTA in place, it makes sense for companies to set up production plants there due to cheaper labor costs and access to a wider consumer base. The country has also become an attractive destination for foreign investors due to its low taxes, relaxed regulations.

    Vietnamese Denim

    What key products and collections you would be showcasing to visiting buyers during the Denimsandjeans Vietnam event on March 1-2?

    Denimsandjeans Vietnam show is a well-known event for showcasing key products and collections. We are glad to announce that during this event, we will be placing the spotlight on these categories and providing our visitors with a huge variety of options to choose from. In our efforts to promote sustainability and eco-friendly products, we will be displaying eco-friendly collections made exclusively for women alongside other unique vintage products. Furthermore, our “Green Denim” collection will give buyers access to an interesting array of denim consists of Closed loop collection and Ecology Denim. We hope that these collections will capture the attention of visitors and give them an opportunity to select the best among what is on offer.

    Authentic

    • Vintage Friendly Collection
    Vietnam Denim Event

    Exclusive Women’s E Collections:

    • One Size Fit
    • One Size Fit– 2 nd Skin
    Vietnam Denim Event

    Green Denim

    • Closed Loop Collection
    • Ecology Denim
    Vietnamese Denim

    More Options

    • Black Denim
    • Naturals
    • Core Items

    Vietnam already has stringent laws related to sustainable processes. Has XDD gone further to use technologies which helps to become a preferred partner of the brands?

    XDD REUSE TAKES ON COTTON TRAGEABILITY IN DENIM PRODUCTION
    Although circularity has gained popularity in the denim industry recently, traceability is crucial for identifying and addressing the underlying environmental issues that manufacturing might cause. Cotton is the primary raw material used to create the well-known fabric in the denim industry, and it is the subject of all discussion. When XDD Textile introduced its XDD REUSE tracing system, it sought to address a significant concern in the denim industry: how might traceability be enhanced in the cotton production and recycling processes?


    Pre-consumer trash is gathered from the mill’s affiliated clothing manufacturer by XDD Textile, which then regenerates and spins it into cotton that is as good as new. This recycled cotton may be traced because it comes from the cuttable waste from XDD’s own fabric. In this “Cut Waste Reuse” technique, XDD can recycle cotton from the garment manufacturing process using 10 to 15 percent of the cut waste. The recent development of such percentages to 20 percent and beyond illustrate the industry’s appetite for additional recycled cotton, even if several firms have already used 5 percent recycled cotton to continue with sustainable fabric production activities. Recycled cotton provides significant benefits, in that it can prevent additional textile waste and require far fewer resources than conventional or organic cotton.

    The waste is often classified into 2 categories:

    • Pre-consumer waste, which includes scraps created by yarn and fabric byproducts
    • Post-consumer waste, which also includes garments from previously recycled finished goods.

    The raw material for the XDD REUSE collection , which is made from pre-consumer waste, comes from the partner garment factory of DD, which regularly uses fabrics from the manufacturer In addition to using trash to make fresh fabric, XDD REUSE also makes use of the company’s Closed Loop System to further confirm the quality of the denim and make it possible to track the origin of the cotton. The textile mill can collect and regenerate the cotton using XDD’s circular Closed Loop System, which also increases the plant’s capacity to produce 100 tones of recycled cotton each month. As Vietnam bans the import of garbage, the system is driven by the XDD wastewater recycling process to reuse and recycle waste.


    XDD Textile itself operates as a vertical enterprise, starting from the purchase of cotton, all the way through the yarn spinning and denim production and recycling processes. The company attributes this vertical model to its ability to offer a traceable cotton supply. XDD has built a recycling process designed to divert more products from landfills, which would help alleviate the estimated 25 billion pounds in annual textile waste produced, according to the Council for Textile Recycling.

    The company’s established tracing process for the XDD REUSE collection can be
    viewed here:

    Vietnam Denim Event

    With the above process in place, XDD aims to guarantee and ensure that all denim production at its factories remain of the highest quality. XDD says it is the first mill in Vietnam that has started to use cuttable fabric waste for recycled cotton, which is now certified by Control Union, Recycled
    Claim Standard (RCS) and Global Recycle Standard (GRS).

    Visit our website for Denimsandjeans Vietnam to register to visit the show and check out the collection of XDD !.

    For more information , you can contact XDD Team  man@xdddenim.com