Tag: india

  • Indenium- The First Denim School in India

    Indenium- The First Denim School in India

    Indenium, a pioneering design school in India, envisions a sustainable future with responsible practices rooted in the rich heritage of the country. Combining India, Indigo, and Denim, the school seeks to empower native brands and designers to redefine global fashion by setting an example of responsible design. Run by Sukhraj Singh – a biker, writer , musician and denim designer with two decades of experience – has dedicated most of his career to the love of denim. He founded Indenium School of Responsible Design in 2020, with his initiative in academics to bridge the gap between design education and the clothing industry, while inculcating a responsible and sustainable design attitude. With a hybrid learning approach and field visits to artisanal studios and industry hubs across India, students gain valuable insights and hands-on experience. Indenium prepares individuals in Responsible Design, Product Development, and Creative Direction, nurturing them to create their own brands and contribute to a more sustainable future. Indenim students also participated in our Denimsandjeans India show in April’23 and brought out an amazing collection of sustainable clothing besides bringing some live workshops on Indigo dyeing which were widely appreciated . An old friend, we were happy to speak to him about his school and what he aims to achieve with his school.

    What’s the vision of the school?

    Firstly, the western philosophy on fashion has proven to be toxic to the people and
    planet and is on the way to becoming obsolete as awareness spreads in the masses on
    the hazards of fast fashion. Secondly, as the second largest producer of textiles and
    apparel, our people and natural resources are abused and exhausted in the process. We
    believe India is not cheap labor, but has the creative answers to the problems of the
    world. Right from its inception, Indenium is India, Indigo and Denim coming together to create
    a scope for native brands and designers to redefine the approach to global fashion by
    example. The school being the first design school rooted in responsible (read
    sustainable) design, the only indigo school in the world and the first denim school in
    Asia, envisions a sustainable future with responsible practices inspired by the rich
    heritage past of India.
    The school also is bridging the gap between vast industrial operations and stages in
    denim manufacturing that are isolated throughout the chain, enabling our students to
    gain knowledge and perspective to intervene from the raw ingredients and across all
    stages of product development to better identify the challenges and offer design-led
    solutions.

    Tell us more about the 1 year denim course that you offer

    The course is a deep dive in understanding sustainability through a soil-to-soil
    curriculum, which encompasses design and product development from alternative
    natural fibers, indigo farming, extraction, dyeing, spinning, weaving, knitting, apparel
    construction, washes, brand building, user experience to the death of the product in a
    landfill. Learning exposure and experience is provided on both sides of handmade as
    well as industrial processes.

    We understand you have a number of modules. How are they distributed to make maximum impact.

    The 1000 hrs course is a hybrid experience with 600 hrs of online learning through
    interactive and guided practical sessions, and 400 hrs of field visits to artisanal studios
    and industry in HP, Ladakh, Uttarakhand, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu.
    We believe that best learning is practical learning which is facilitated through field visits,
    and that best thoughtful personalization of translating that knowledge happens in our
    personal space, at home. We also send indigo seeds, vat making kits, yarns and fabrics
    to the students’ homes and guide them online to develop dyeing understanding while
    experimenting with materials of their interest. This helps the learning teams to identify
    their signature based on their strengths. We also have some students who move to Dharamshala, HP for the course duration to engage with our fiber-to-product studio set-up if its not available in their cities/towns.

    Indigo school

    What can students expect to learn by the time they complete the course ?

    The course prepares an individual in three strong domains of Responsible Design,
    Product Development and Creative Direction. We help students to identify,
    conceptualize and create their brands in their individual signature approach and USP,
    while launching them through school’s platform Advent, an industry showcase at
    Denimsandjeans, Bangalore and an artisanal centered exhibition at LLDC Shrujan, Bhuj.
    The school is launching its own premium webstore to provide Indenium designers with a
    marketplace to highlight the entrepreneurs, freeing them from the startup challenges of
    MOQs and sharing profit with e-comm stores/MBOs. Those who seek some experience before starting their entrepreneurial journeys, we engage them in professional profiles with our associated organizations.

    What has been the experience like with past three batches since the pandemic?

    Indenium was birthed on 15 Aug 2020, clearly signifying the intent and mission. The first two batches endured the lockdowns in the three waves of the pandemic, and were resilient on creating unique ideas with indigo and denim. Abha Aggarwal founded Rom- Rom as country’s first lingerie and intimate wear brand giving women products made from natural fibers and dyes. Sanjana developed an amazing garment dyeing technique with natural indigo and ice and was offered a creative role at Arvind Indigo Museum. Ujwal is working on his startup Lokansh as a seed-to-product concept and has developed innovative handloom denim fabrics with hemp and indigenous cotton from his profound understanding of indigo dyeing. Disha has based her brand Ek Aasman on ancient Indian wisdom of Ayurvastram offering wellness through her products. We’ve seen multiple breakthrough ideas emerging in these tough times as our designers have exhibited deep awareness in their approach. The present batch has designers exploring vegan leather, natural dyes and upcycling concepts with craft communities and technology.

    It’s a very exciting atmosphere and time to witness the possibilities that can emerge from young minds if the right guidance and exposure is provided. I have always believed that denim is an inspirational benchmark and the most elaborate in textile and apparel processes that those who can work with denim, they naturally find it easy to work with all product categories as well.

    And who can join ?

    Our mission is to enable learning for all without any prerequisites of qualifications or backgrounds. Anyone who has passion for denim and/or wants to establish themselves in design entrepreneurship to contribute to a sustainable future is welcome. One can simply visit our website and fill the admissions application and we will promptly contact them. We are starting the new batch on 4 Aug and seats are limited to 15. There is an industry scholarship of INR1 lakh (USD 1200 approx) for those either already working in or aspiring to enter the denim industry. The same also applies to the next generation of denim business owners. We are looking for driven individuals who want to be the first of changemakers in responsible design movement, as there’s no other way of the future.

    Contact Sukhraj Singh for further queries at sukhraj@indenium.in


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  • France Adopts The Anti-Waste Law

    France Adopts The Anti-Waste Law

    Every year, approximately 300 million metric tonnes of plastic garbage are generated throughout the world. Each year, India produces roughly 9.46 million metric tonnes of plastic garbage. From 1950 to the present, researchers estimate that 8.3 billion tonnes of plastic have been produced. 60 percent of the plastic has ended up in landfills or the global ecosystems as plastic garbage. Despite different attempts, just 9% of plastic garbage has been recycled so far, and only 12% has been burnt. The remaining 79% has been collected in our surroundings.

    In 2016, France produced a significant quantity of the trash, averaging 4 to 6 tonnes per person. Large amounts of post-consumer trash are hardly recycled back into circulation, escape through the waste management system’s seams, and end up creating environmental harm and posing a threat to biodiversity. France created around 4.5 million tonnes of plastic garbage in 2016, with 80,000 tonnes harming the environment and 10,000 tonnes entering the Mediterranean Sea. As a result, France was responsible for the most environmental degradation in the Mediterranean area that year.

    Furthermore, large amounts of post-consumer waste are mishandled, and goods and products are thrown away before even being utilized once. Unsold goods worth EUR 630 million are discarded in France every year. When perfectly excellent things are thrown away unnecessarily, the energy and materials utilized to make them are also squandered. Unsold items are destroyed, resulting in 5 to 20 times higher GHG (greenhouse gas) emissions than if they were reused.

    Plastic waste has now become a major issue for governments all over the world. To address this issue, the French government has taken a bold step by passing Law no. 2020-105, often known as the “Anti-Waste Law,” which sets a target of recycling 100% of plastics by 2025.

    THE ANTI – WASTE LAW

    Since 2015, the European Commission has been focusing on an implementation plan to help Europe transition to a circular economy. The French government approved “The Anti-waste Law” on February 10, 2020, to combat waste and encourage a circular economy. The law intends to minimize waste and pollution at the design stage and shift from a linear to a circular economic model of production, distribution, and consumption. It uplifts businesses in a variety of sectors, as well as municipalities and citizens, to reduce waste and enact more circular practices.

    Full oversight in environmental and health attributes of goods, surveillance on the recycling program, restriction on the use of plastic, assistance to fight pollution and waste of both food and non-food commodities, rigid punishment for environmental violations, provision to support companies in their eco-friendly initiatives, and so on are among the fifty measures included in the law. To sum up, the law aims to-

    • To scrap out single-use plastic packaging by 2040
    • Eradicating waste by revitalizing reuse and aiding charitable organizations
    • Handling planned obsolescence
    • Endorsing a better resource management system from design stage to material recovery
    • Present improves, stronger and more seamless information to the consumers

    How the government of France aims to achieve this anti-waste law? By 2025, the French government plans to recycle 100 percent of plastic. By 2030, they plan to reduce home garbage and waste from business activities by 15% and 5%, respectively. To accomplish this, the government intends to establish a five-year strategy focusing on plastic reduction, reuse, and recycling. It will be phased in over four years, from 2020 to 2025, 2025 to 2030, 2030 to 2035, and 2035 to 2040.

    PRESENT DATE SCENARIO

    Source: Twisted Sifter

    When France prohibited the disposal of unsold food goods in 2016, it made international news. This restriction will be expanded to other unsold commodities, such as electronics and hygiene products, beginning this year, 2022. From January 1st, it is unlawful in France to burn a variety of unsold items, as part of the government’s goal of establishing a “circular economy” and minimizing waste.

    From this year, 2022 onwards, it is illegal in France to destroy the following unsold goods- electronic products, textiles, clothes and shoes, furniture, ink cartridges, hygiene products, food preservation and cooking equipment, leisure products, books, and school equipment.

    Affect Of Anti- Waste Law on Fashion Industry

    What is the actual amount of trash produced by the fashion industry? Every year, the average consumer discards 70 pounds (31.75 kilograms) of apparel. Every year, we generate 13 million tonnes of textile waste, 95% of which might be repurposed or recycled. For the past five years, post-consumer trash has been at the forefront of the circular economy debate in the fashion sector. “The 2020 Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report reveals that the global fiber production has doubled in the last 20 years, reaching an all-time high of 111 million metric tons in 2019 and pre-COVID-19 results indicated potential growth to 146 million metric tons by 2030.”

    As per French Lawmakers, the fashion sector is a viable target of the new laws as apparel merchants, in particular, will have to refresh their items more regularly (than those of other industries) as they often have unsold overstock. The industry, as a result of its long-standing procedure of destroying unsold merchandise to avoid selling it at a reduced rate and/or paying to store it, is one of the major causes in terms of more than €650 million (nearly $710 million) worth of new consumer goods destroyed or disposed of annually in France, and $900 million worth is unsold items that end up in landfills.

    How exactly is France recycling the wasted clothes? More demand for recycling choices arose as a result of increased interest in the environment and a desire to live a safe life. There is no denying that over 60% of the garments wind up in the garbage. So, what happens after that? Garments that are dumped in the trash are collected by ECO TLC organizations or businesses. The collected clothing is then processed by hand and resold to second–hand retailers or delivered to textile recycling organizations, which is the labor portion.

    After that, all of the textiles that can no longer be worn are transported to be recycled, where they are chopped, shredded, frayed, or crushed, and then turned into rags, insulating products, new garments, or secondary raw material. . Few firms in France, such as Hopaal, Maison Izard, and others, are already providing precedents for other large brands, demonstrating what is possible.

    The Policy Measures

    Source: Ministry of the Ecological Transition

    The law includes plenty of measures, to help shape the adaptation to a circular economy. The demolition of unsold non-food items is prohibited in France for the first time. Instead of dumping or incinerating unwanted items, businesses will be required to repurpose, donate, or recycle them.

    It is also the first country to require that electronic and electric items, including cellphones, computers, washing machines, and televisions, have a mandated modifiability index. This strategy attempts to enhance the proportion of devices that are fixed by requiring manufacturers to consider modifiability throughout the design stage and educating customers about repair alternatives when purchasing a gadget.

    By establishing new employment and promoting the solidarity economy, the law also hopes to inspire societal reform. France is also supporting circular solutions to help those living in difficult situations by setting aside funding to encourage the development of 70,000 employment in reuse networks and encouraging the donating of unsold items to charitable organizations.