Tag: Interviews

  • R By 45rpm Denim Jeans – A Chat With Ehren At NY Store

    DSC05540 Japanese denim is famous for its attention to detail – like many other things in the Japanese culture. That is the reason the Japanese denim brands stand out and outshine most other denim brands and have cult following  around the world. One such brand is R by 45rpm .  I visited their store in SOHO , New York , last month and chatted around with Ehren at the store and I found that he is deeply knowledgeable on denim matters . It was fun and very  interesting to discuss with him regarding 45rpm and denim in general .

    Hi Ehren !  Tell me something about the 45RPM jeans that we can see   here ?

    All our jeans are made with Zimbabwe organic cotton. They are all selvedgeDSC05533 denim. We do all our weaving on antique vintage denim selvedge looms which we have slowed down to increase the slubby texture . We also control the quality of our yarn in order to make sure that instead of a flat machine feel their should be slubby structure. We use a variation of either synthetic based indigo dyes or organic plant dyes . A lot of our organic indigo stuff is dyed by hand.

    What is the advantage of dyeing by hand ?

     

    sythetic indigo wash down‘Advantage’ may not be the word – it is the outcome. The advantage of dyeing is the color of course – it is a much richer and very serious blue . The people might call the advantage  to the fact that over time instead of washing  out and color fading very dramatically at certain areas – on your thighs etc – anything like thisNatural Indigo Wash Down After 10 years (shows a synthetic washed jeans)  whiskers etc – that is not going to happen that with natural indigo dye . It could happen but it is very very difficult to get there . You have to almost make it happen . If you normally wear  those jeans ,they won’t naturally fade like this over time and you will get a more even sort of distribution of color .  Have a look at these jeans I am wearing . After 10 years of use they will  eventually reach this color ( see the comparison in the picture above) . When they started they were this color – you will see that it lines up very evenly over time and still keeps a very intense , very vivid blue as opposed to synthetic blue which fades much more.

    Tell me what is so special about your yarns

    Most  special thing about our yarns is the way  we control the quality of our yarn . I suppose instead of just making mass produced machine spun yarns , a lot our stuff is done by hands. Even the stuff which is not done by hands, we control it and purposely make sure that it has  a slubby vintage texture to it .

    What is the price range of 45 RPM Jeans ?

    We are doing $368 and above .

    Going up to $ 1000 ?

    Our top of the line denim  before tax is in the  $800- $900 range . But you can make it more expensive by adding Silver rivets , custom distressing etc . We offer like 2 years , 5 years , 7 years custom distressed washes.  We have studios in Japan to do these washes.

    So that can be done on individual orders ..

    Yes,  Bespoke denim  basically.

    How many times should denim be washed at home?

    There is a sort of a debate on that. And I actually personally fall on both sides of the debate.  There are people who want to wear raw denim imagecontinuing as much as possible without it to get more extreme , more severely individualized color fade and that  looks really really cool and it works . If you don’t wash them very often , and then wear as much as you  can  and then wash them , you will notice much more lines behind the legs and much more direct lines above here (near the crotch) .

    The disadvantage to that is that Jeans are an organic material – its cotton. Over time bacteria gets into there and starts eating away at the denim . So when you do that , the denim is not necessarily going to last a long time . You could reverse that by patching it up or by washing them often – you could make them last longer. But if you do not wash them , you should expect them to fall apart . Your pockets are going to fall apart , your knees are going to come apart ……

    That’s your personality on your jeans .

    Exactly . Other thing to do is to turn them inside out and wash them after every 2-3 times you wear them . Very short wash , just a very little detergent . You will get a more even fade , you will not get very expressive lines on your jeans  but they will probably last a little longer and still look great . My suggestion is

    “If you have natural  indigo denim ,  I would recommend washing it pretty well. If you have synthetic indigo denim ,  I would personally recommend wear them as long as you can  , get some awesome color going and then rock them …”

    Thank you so much  Ehren. Our readers really love 45 rpm Jeans .

    We are happy. Thanks and have a great day.

    Here is a video on the chat with Ehren (Those who are reading this report in email will have to go online to see the video).

    Here are some snaps from the store and its location :

    R by 45rpm
    SOHO STORE
    169 Mercer St.
    (Between Houston & Prince Sts.)
    New York, NY 10012
    Tel:917-237-0045

    Contact R by 45rpm at this email address

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    45rpm 45rpm jeans

    45rpm denim jeans 45rpm denim jeans

  • A Chat With Jeannie Cumiskey of Tavex Denim

    logoinstitucional With a history of more than 150 years , Tavex is a name to reckon in the global textile industry. Starting in 1846 as “‘Fábrica de Hilados, Tejidos y Estampados de Bergara” , the mill produced Indian and other cotton fabric using the indigo dye right from the beginning. It took the strategic decision to invest in denim manufacturing in 1970 and brought the first Rope Dyeing machine to Spain. Thereafter , it has been a story of continuous growth and expansion crossing various milestones on the way. A few years back , Tavex and Santiesta (Brazil) merged and created a large textile conglomerate.

    On the recent visit to  New York , I met Tavex team who participated in the show . It was a good oppurtunity to know more about the company and I chatted with Jeannie who looks after the marketing and product development for the North American market  . She  very kindly updated me with  various informations. Here are some excerpts from the chat :

    Hi Jeannie, Tavex and Santiesta have merged. How is the group operating now ?

    clip_image002[3]The merger  happened almost 4 years ago . Tavex and Santiesta came together and created the NEW Tavex Corporation . We are doing upwards of 150 million mtrs of denim and we all work under the Tavex umbrella for denim . We manufacture both flats and denim. Denim is made in Morocco, Brazil , Chile , Argentina and Mexico .

    Flats and work wear fabrics are produced in Morocco and Brazil. TAVEX purchased 2 factories in Mexico a couple of years back WITH THE INTENT OF doing DENIM product at the same level as we do in Europe but closer to the American market. These factories are the primary responsibility for the North American Sales team although we also represent our highly influential European collection here in the US, as well.

    Under Santiesta name , is denim not produced any more ?

    Denim is  all Tavex now . A Lot of people still reference Santista,  in South America , because it has always  been a big name in denim and it  is still very much a part of  our workwear / uniform  business in Brazil..

    So  probably you are the second biggest in the world now for denim production ?

    We are the largest in the Americas and Europe , but not completely sure how we stack up to some Chinese mills. So I am guessing that we are 2nd .

    How have the last couple of years been for Tavex’s growth ?

    The last 3 years for Tavex have been all about restructuring to meet the needs of each region . In Europe and the US , in particular , we made many many changes – buying plants , moving or replacing equipment , hiring new teams etc . But , today , we have overcome all the start up and restructuring issues and have emerged a much stronger force . We have always had a strong financial position . But , today , the company worldwide is much stronger in product innovation , quality and service . We are expecting  great results for 2010.

    What are the latest trends in the denim fabrics that  you are noticing?

    Stretch and more stretch, always with a soft touch , continues to be the biggest volume trend. In Mexico, we have put a LOT of emphasis on growing our stretch business – both comfort and stretchy stretch. We have a great deal of internal yarn capability that allows us to offer a wide range of fabric characteristics that emulate our premium , European stretches , but manufactured much closer to the market. We have a very nice menswear business . In better fashion basics that we are continuing to expand with new shades, finishes and yarn aspects as we see the menswear market continuing to demand better , more interesting fabrics as well. One of our largest programmes is actually a stretch programme for the men’s market . We see this segment growing as well.

    Any other products of Tavex that you would like to tell us about ?

    tavex amazon tex We have a few really unique developments like eco friendly , fair trade products and Wellness textiles. We have a finish called Amazon Tex which comes from a nut which is harvested in the Amazon that supports the indigenous people of the rain forest . We are also embarking globally on Therapeutic or Wellness textiles . Our first development in our ‘Denim Therapy ‘ Group is called ‘ Energizing’ . It is regular denim improved with a bio – ceramic complex application. This application pulls the far infra red rays of the stun, stimulating the molecules in the body , which in turn improves ciruclation and gives you a better sense of well being . It also improves your equilibrium giving you better balance .We have had a lot of fun proving this improved balance with our customers. It really works and the BENEFIT  is IMMEDIATE . The application has been used in lot of high tech fabrics like skiwear and medical apparel . This is the first time it has been APPLIED TO FABRIC FOR EVERYDAY CLOTHING.  It is not a cheap process but there is a growing market out there – Clothing for the elderly , skate / surf / performance market etc . We think this is a very exciting category and will continue to introduce new and and different therapeutic concepts into this segment.

    Which dyeing technology do you use ?

    We have Rope and Slasher in all locations .

     

    And here are some pictures from their Summer 2011 collection

    Tavex Global Tribes :
    South America with Africa, India with aborigines.Multicultural humanity: respect for different cultures and traditions.

    tavex aborigines

    Tavex Backwood :

    The combination of rock and roll with hillbilly, in the 1950s and 1960s.
    Young escape to rock and roll icons.

    tavex backwood

    Tavex Decelerate :
    Northern coast of Europe, sandy beaches and landscapes swept by the wind, MILAN, L.A.
    tavex decelarate

    And since Jeannie won’t allow me to put up her picture , I could only put one of  Steve Naturale from NY Sales 🙂

     

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    Contact Tavex – Email here