{"id":3192,"date":"2011-05-29T01:20:20","date_gmt":"2011-05-29T08:20:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/denim\/manufacturing-process\/common-defects-in-denim-jeans-sewing\/"},"modified":"2012-06-10T22:41:21","modified_gmt":"2012-06-11T05:41:21","slug":"common-defects-in-denim-jeans-sewing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/recovery\/denim\/manufacturing-process\/common-defects-in-denim-jeans-sewing\/3192","title":{"rendered":"Common Defects In Denim Jeans Sewing"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px;\" title=\"denim-seam-inequalities\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/denimseaminequalities1.gif\" alt=\"denim-seam-inequalities\" width=\"231\" height=\"196\" align=\"left\" \/><\/strong><strong>American and Efird<\/strong> \u00e2\u20ac\u201c has listed out some of the most common seam inequalities in the manufacturing of denim jeans . The company lists out the defects and suggests solutions for removing these defects. We are summarizing the results from A &amp; E\u00c2\u00a0 below :<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h1><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><em>1.BROKEN STITCHES &#8211; NEEDLE CUTTING <\/em><\/span><\/h1>\n<p><strong>Description<\/strong> : Where the thread is being broken where one seam crosses another seam (ex: bartacks on top of waistband stitching, seatseam on top of riser seam ) resulting in stitch failure.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"denim stiching\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image20.png\" alt=\"denim stiching\" width=\"241\" height=\"105\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"jeans sewing\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image21.png\" alt=\"jeans sewing\" width=\"383\" height=\"166\" border=\"0\" \/><\/p>\n<h3>Recommended solution by <a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/eyWqAb\" target=\"_blank\">A &amp; E<\/a> :<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Use a larger diameter thread on operations<br \/>\nwhere the thread is being cut.<\/li>\n<li>Make sure the proper stitch balance is being used. On a chainstitch seam on denim, you normally would like to maintain a 60%\/40%<br \/>\nrelationship of Needle thread to Looper thread in the<br \/>\nSeam.<\/li>\n<li>Use needles with the correct needle point.<\/li>\n<li>Change the needles at regular intervals on operations<br \/>\nwhere the Needle Cuts are occurring frequently.<\/li>\n<li>Use a higher performance\u00c2\u00a0 <a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/eyWqAb\" target=\"_blank\">Perma Core or D-Core thread<\/a>.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1><em><span style=\"color: #808080;\">2.Broken Stitch \u00e2\u20ac\u201c Abrasion :<\/span><\/em><\/h1>\n<p><strong>Description<\/strong> : where the thread is broken during stone-washing, sand blasting, hand sanding, etc.\u00c2\u00a0 Broken stitches must be repaired by restitching over the top of the stitch-line.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image22.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"denim defects \" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image-thumb19.png\" alt=\"denim defects \" width=\"220\" height=\"160\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/eyWqAb\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"denim sewing\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image23.png\" alt=\"denim sewing\" width=\"220\" height=\"169\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<h3>Recommended Solution :<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Use a larger diameter thread on operations where<br \/>\nexcessive abrasion is occuring\u00c2\u00a0 (ex: use <strong>T-120 on<br \/>\nWaistband<\/strong>);<\/li>\n<li>Make sure stitches are balanced properly.<\/li>\n<li>Use a Magic air entangled thread in the looper due to its lower<br \/>\nseam profile making it susceptible to abrasion<br \/>\n(ex: use T-90 or T-135 Magic in loopers of the Yoke, Seat<br \/>\nand Waistband seam);<\/li>\n<li>Monitor the Finishing Cycle for compliance to specs.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1><em><span style=\"color: #808080;\">3. Broken Stitches : Chemical Degradation :<\/span><\/em><\/h1>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/eyWqAb\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image24.png\" alt=\"image\" width=\"240\" height=\"156\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Description<\/strong> : where thread is\u00c2\u00a0 being compromised by the chemicals used during laundering resulting in loss or change of color and seam failure.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>It is recommended to go to <strong>larger thread sizes<\/strong> when the<br \/>\nDenim Garments will be subject to Harsh Chemical<br \/>\nwashes.<\/li>\n<li>To achieve the best laundering results make<br \/>\nsure that the water temperatures and PH Levels are<br \/>\ncorrect and that the proper amounts and sequence of<br \/>\nchemical dispersion are within guidelines.<\/li>\n<li>Make sure the garments are being rinsed properly to neutralize the<br \/>\nchemicals in the fabric.<\/li>\n<li>Monitor the drying process, cycle times, and temperatures to make sure they are correct so that the best possible garment quality can be<br \/>\nachieved.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1><em><span style=\"color: #808080;\">4. Unravelling Seams : <\/span><\/em><\/h1>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/eyWqAb\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"denim sewing\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image25.png\" alt=\"denim sewing\" width=\"240\" height=\"210\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image26.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; border: 0px;\" title=\"denim stitching\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image-thumb20.png\" alt=\"denim stitching\" width=\"240\" height=\"155\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Description <\/strong>: where either the stitch has been broken or a skipped stitch has<br \/>\noccurred. This will cause seam failure unless the seam is Restitched.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Recommended Solution :<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>This may include going to a higher<br \/>\nperformance thread designed to minimize sewing<br \/>\ninterruptions.<\/li>\n<li>Observe sewing operators for correct<br \/>\nmaterial handling techniques.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1><em><span style=\"color: #808080;\">6. Sagging or Rolling Pockets :<\/span><\/em><\/h1>\n<p><strong>Description<\/strong> :\u00c2\u00a0 where the pocket does not lay\u00c2\u00a0 SAGGING OR ROLLING POCKETS\u00c2\u00a0 flat and rolls over after laundering.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image27.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"denim stitching\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image-thumb21.png\" alt=\"denim stitching\" width=\"377\" height=\"219\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Recommended Solution :<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Make sure the <strong>sewing operators are not holding POCKETS<br \/>\nback <\/strong>excessively when setting the front pocket.<\/li>\n<li>Make sure the <strong>hem is formed properly and that excessive<br \/>\nfabric is not being being put into the folder<\/strong> that will cause<br \/>\nthe hem to roll over.<\/li>\n<li>Check to make sure pocket is cut properly and that <strong>pocket curve is not too deep.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li>Use a <strong>reinforcement tape<\/strong> on the inside of the pocket that may<br \/>\nhelp prevent the front panel from stretching along the bias<br \/>\nwhere the front pocket is set.<\/li>\n<li>The <strong>type and weight of denim<\/strong>, along with the fabric construction, may contribute to this problem. Contact your fabric supplier for assistance.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h1><em><span style=\"color: #808080;\">5.Skipped Stitches <\/span><\/em><\/h1>\n<p><strong>Description<\/strong>: where the stitch forming device misses the<br \/>\nneedle loop or the needle misses the looper loop. Skips are usually<br \/>\nfound where one seam crosses another seam and most of the time<br \/>\noccurs right before or right after the heavy thickness.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/eyWqAb\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"denim stiching\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image28.png\" alt=\"denim stiching\" width=\"257\" height=\"207\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image29.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"jeans stiching\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image-thumb22.png\" alt=\"jeans stiching\" width=\"381\" height=\"148\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Recommended Solution :-<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Use <strong>corespun <\/strong>thread.<\/li>\n<li>Use <strong>minimum thread tension<\/strong> to get a balanced stitch.<\/li>\n<li>Use the ideal foot, feed and plate that helps to minimize<br \/>\nflagging.<\/li>\n<li>Training sewing operators <strong>NOT to stop on the<br \/>\nthickness.<\/strong><\/li>\n<li>Make sure the machine is feeding properly<br \/>\nwithout stalling.<\/li>\n<li>Make sure the machine is not back-feeding.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1><em><span style=\"color: #808080;\">6. Ragged \u00e2\u20ac\u201c Inconsistent Edge<\/span> <\/em><\/h1>\n<p><strong>Description<\/strong> : where the edge of the seam is<br \/>\neither extremely &#8220;ragged&#8221; or &#8220;rolls&#8221; inside the stitch.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/eyWqAb\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"jeans edge\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image30.png\" alt=\"jeans edge\" width=\"240\" height=\"173\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Recommended Solution :<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Make\u00c2\u00a0 sure the <strong>sewing machine knives are sharpened<\/strong> and<br \/>\nchanged often.<\/li>\n<li>The knives should be adjusted properly in relationship to the &#8220;<strong>stitch tongue<\/strong>&#8221; on the needle plate to obtain the proper seam width or width bite.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1><span style=\"color: #808080;\"><em>7. Wavy Seams On Stretch Denim<\/em><\/span><\/h1>\n<p><strong>Description<\/strong> : where the seam does not lay\u00c2\u00a0 flat and is wavy due to the fabric stretching as it was sewn or during subsequent laundering and handling operation.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/eyWqAb\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image31.png\" alt=\"image\" width=\"240\" height=\"184\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Recommended Solution :\u00c2\u00a0 <\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Use minimum presser foot pressure.<\/li>\n<li>Instruct sewing operators to use proper handling techniques and not<br \/>\nstretch the fabric as they are making the seam.<\/li>\n<li>Where available, use <strong>differential feed<\/strong> to compensate for the<br \/>\nstretch of the fabric.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1><em><span style=\"color: #808080;\">8. Ropy Hem<\/span><\/em><\/h1>\n<p><strong>Description<\/strong>: is where hem is not laying flat and is skewed in\u00c2\u00a0 ROPY HEM<br \/>\nappearance .<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/eyWqAb\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"image\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image32.png\" alt=\"image\" width=\"240\" height=\"116\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>Recommended Solutions :<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Instruct the sewing operator to make sure they get the hem started correctly in the folder before they start sewing.<\/li>\n<li>Also, make sure the don&#8217;t hold back<br \/>\nexcessively as the seam is being sewn.<\/li>\n<li>Use minimum roller or presser foot pressure.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1><em><span style=\"color: #808080;\">9. Twisted Legs : <\/span><\/em><\/h1>\n<p><strong>Description<\/strong> : is where the sideseam twists around to the front\u00c2\u00a0\u00c2\u00a0 of the pant and distorts the appearance of the jeans .<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image33.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"twisted legs jeans\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image-thumb23.png\" alt=\"twisted legs jeans\" width=\"204\" height=\"240\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Recommended Solution : <\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Instruct the sewing operator to<br \/>\nmatch the front and back properly so they come out the<br \/>\nsame length. Sometimes notches are used to insure proper<br \/>\nalignment. They should NOT trim off the front or back with<br \/>\nscissors to make them come out the same length.<\/li>\n<li>Make sure the cut parts are of equal length coming to the<br \/>\nassembly operation.<\/li>\n<li>Check fabric quality and cutting for proper skew.<\/li>\n<li>Make sure the sewing machine is adjusted<br \/>\nproperly for uniform feeding of the top and bottom plies<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1><em><span style=\"color: #808080;\">8. Disappearing Stitches in Stretch Denim<\/span><\/em><\/h1>\n<p><strong>Description<\/strong> :\u00c2\u00a0 is where the\u00c2\u00a0 thread looks much smaller on seams sewn in the warp direction than in the weft direction of the fabric<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image34.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"jeans stitching\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image-thumb24.png\" alt=\"jeans stitching\" width=\"240\" height=\"210\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image35.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"denim jeans stitching\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image-thumb25.png\" alt=\"denim jeans stitching\" width=\"240\" height=\"137\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Recommended Solution :<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Use a heavier thread size (T-120,\u00c2\u00a0 ON STRETCH DENIM<br \/>\nT-135, T-150) on topstitching.<\/li>\n<li>Go to a longer stitch length\u00c2\u00a0 (from 8 to 6 spi). 3) Make sure the thread tensions are as loose as possible so the thread sits on top of the<br \/>\nfabric rather than burying in the fabric on seams sewn in<br \/>\nthe warp.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<h1><em><span style=\"color: #808080;\">10. Thread Discoloration after Laundry <\/span><\/em><\/h1>\n<p><strong>Description<\/strong> : is where the thread\u00c2\u00a0 pics up the indigo dyes from the fabric giving the thread a &#8216;dirty&#8217; appearance. A common discoloration would be the pick-up of a greenish or turquoise tint.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image36.png\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" style=\"display: inline; border: 0px;\" title=\"denim stitching\" src=\"http:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/05\/image-thumb26.png\" alt=\"denim stitching\" width=\"240\" height=\"159\" border=\"0\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p><strong>Recommended Solution :<\/strong><\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Use thread\u00c2\u00a0 with proper color fastness characteristics.<\/li>\n<li>Correct PH level (too low) and Water Temperature (too low) during<br \/>\nlaundry.<\/li>\n<li>Use the proper chemicals &amp; laundry cycles.<\/li>\n<li>Use Denimcol PCC in wash or similar additive.<\/li>\n<li>Do Not overload washers with too many garments at one time<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Need further\u00c2\u00a0 info on denim stitching , visit <a href=\"http:\/\/bit.ly\/eyWqAb\" target=\"_blank\">A&amp;E website<\/a> or <a href=\"mailto:al.irvine@amefird.com?subject=Denim Defects : Denimsandjeans.com\" target=\"_blank\">contact them<\/a>.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>American and Efird \u00e2\u20ac\u201c has listed out some of the most common seam inequalities in the manufacturing of denim jeans . The company lists out the defects and suggests solutions for removing these defects. We are summarizing the results from A &amp; E\u00c2\u00a0 below : &nbsp; 1.BROKEN STITCHES &#8211; NEEDLE CUTTING Description : Where the [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[516],"tags":[26],"class_list":["post-3192","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-manufacturing-process","tag-denim-manufacturing"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/recovery\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3192","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/recovery\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/recovery\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/recovery\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/recovery\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3192"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/recovery\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3192\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/recovery\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3192"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/recovery\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3192"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.denimsandjeans.com\/recovery\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3192"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}