The report mentions that fit and detail play up feminine and masculine elements . An opulent ,charming and glamorous season underpinned by essence and substance , with comfort and stretch driving the new sexy / easy looks forward. A season that only looks simple , thanks to cleaner , more refined surfaces.

The three key directions are :

• Eccentric Glam

• Glam and Raw

• Glitter Glam

Eccentric Glam

A bold embrace of feminine weapons of choice in the game of seduction. Decorated pieces, carefully positioned details, diluted aspects softened handles , brushed and warm surfaces.

Glam and Raw

• A bravura demonstration of true masculine appeal .
• Heavy and original weights , dark and mysterious effects.
• Rubber coatings, imitation leather and skin aspects.

Glitter Glam

• Clearly situating jeanswear in an array of irrestibly charming universe .
• Metallic Reflections , glossy coatings, jewel-like accessories, diffused halos.

Focus

Extra Decorated

• All over prints on denim , particularly floral patterns or small repeating scarf patterns.
• Little decorative images applied all over .
• Carefully placed details.

Diluted Effects (washing effects)

• Drawing with diluted color with one melting into another.
• Wet look dilutions.
• Moving aspects, pretenders.

Metallic Soul

• Slightly stained by metallic powder.
• Charcoal wefts creating luminous light deep into the heart of fabrics.

Warm and Wooly

• Brushed finishes on the inside , a generally warm and cosy effect for extra soft handles .
• Cotton, wool , cashmere mixes.
• Soft and worn fabrics.

Warm and Blurry

• Thrown yarns , sophisticated yarns.
• Precise weaves and washing outs.

New takes on Tradition

• Classical patterns reborn in jeanswear and treated to typically denim treatments .
• A more contrified spirit.
• Denim inspired by suitings, herringbones, stripes and small structures.

Sophisticated Rusticity

• An irregular look , knop multi coloured yarns .
• A distressed but chic aspect.

Contrasting Behaviours

• 2 major and totally opposite directions .
• Super stiff or extra supple – no place for anything in between.

Mysterious

• Extremely dark, slightly contrasted here and there for strange halos .
• A succession of different treatments for mysterious effect.
• Complex fabrics that defy an easy recognition of their treatment processes .

Coated Darks

• Continued importance of coated surfaces.
• In shiny or opaque versions.
• Coatings that add color intensity effects.

Presentations on AW ‘13/14

The Denim Shirt !

The sturdy denim shirt showed how it’s evolving for the young men’s market. Basic denim styles to more updated versions with mixed fabrics, stitch detailing and elbow patches looked new. Worn denim on denim and layered, of course!

The Denim Jacket

There was a mixed message with denim jackets and vests at Magic.Popular throughout the show was the washed-down, broken-in styles that carried out an Eighties revival and grunge styling. New looks with upscale interpretations of the jacket featured leather sleeves and more refined touches like the printed silk pocket scarf. Denim jackets are personalized for authenticity, just the way this market likes it!

On the Loose !

Loose tapered fits from Magic show .

Skinny slacker and dropped crotch fits

The skinny slacker and dropped crotch fits made the strongest fit statement across all markets. Urban, street, contemporary all had their own interpretation on how low it can go. It was the one fit that successfully crossed over into all markets making it the fit of the moment!

But,the question is still of it was a fair for designers and photographers are where there so many buyers !!.

The layout of the stands were excellent made and well organised and generally many colours could be seen!!!!

Here is a brief note on some of the denim brands that were present there.

LEE:

-garments with holes ,,,,,, no pressing

-unwashed

-old and vintage look

-bigger back pockets!!!! And low positioning

-loose fit

-back is the bib overall

101 CONCEPT:

-Ring/Ring fabrics , The fabrics were japanese – from Kurabo!!

-Dark and medium washed

WRANGLER:

-Labels are bigger and colour full

-Garments are more even,,,,, dark and medium washed (14OZ)

-No pressing just blowing

-Very few with dirty wash look

LEVI’S

-Black denim for 501——-normal washes !!!!dark/medium/bleached

-Bleached with holes!!!!

-Loose fit

-Unwashed. I have the impression that Levi’s is moving away from the extreme washes.

-many colours and coarse stitching on the back pockets and embroidery

Similar trends I found in brands – COLLIN’S and MAVI jeans (turkey)

garments.

Only brands made by ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED you find the extreme washes!!!

Denim Fabric Trends Noticed:

1. I have the impression that the most manufactures put more ATTENTION again to the fabric for sure 14OZ!!!
2. The flamed denim is still in collection (inherent to ring yarns)
3. Also crosshatch fabrics (R/R) more expensive fabrics are used more
4. DEEP DYEING and PURE indigo
5. Shrink to Fit Fabric is becoming HOT. It is weft stretch denim which is not sanforized and has a residual shrinkage of 15% in weft and 15% in warp.Elasticity is about 20-30% . Such fabric was made in the Eighties…

A Note On TRC – (Denim Mill From Italy)

TRC PROPOSED The Selvedge Denim…

1. Woven on the old Picanol president loom( anno 70 _80)
2. Shuttle loom (unifill) width of fabric 75 cm
3. Speed of loom :15O picks/min VERY SLOW

Same concept was noticed at PH7 -Japanese brand– handcrafted…

CONCLUSION

Everyone was a little bit nervous for the further evolution and result AND hoping that after TWO years the economy should improve!!

BUT now they all should try to overcome the 2 difficult years!! HOW ??

Note for Denim Companies :

1. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to present the Fabric in LEG form and washed very well( different washes).
2. Back pocket on the leg to see the contrast

This makes the fabric more attractive FOR PRESENTATION.

Here are some photographs I shot from the fair which show some of the trends noticed at the fair. Specially , notice the large pockets on some of the jeans .

Can’t miss to show this stack of denim

And Myself !!!

This is a guest post by Rik Vanniewenborgh who has over 30 years experience in Denim Industry. He has worked over 25 years in the VF Corporation (Belgium) in various capacities (including quality control)and has travelled over around the world living and breathing denim. This post is from his recent visit to the BBB Berlin Jeans Fair.Contact him on email here