Denim by PV comes with their 18th Edition at BARCELONA, SPAIN on 18th and 19th May. With over 90 exhibitors from around the world, DPV hopes to draw in more than the 4000 visitors who visited their last edition. Denim Première Vision focuses on the nature of denim and aims to define what True Denim is today It explores its DNA and defines its genes The modern building blocks of True Denim . They also want to take a look at the evolution of denim .While respecting the past, a look at the future is targeted.

True Denim is a tribute to denim A tribute to the know-how To the makers and the innovators To the specialists who are not afraid of pushing limits Who define 21st century standards for genuine denim . They quote Kristina Szasz, Group Vice President of Women’s Design, Abercrombie & Fitch who says

“True denim has the versatility and the ability to become all things to all people. It has a social meaning and is the most personal item in everybody`s wardrobe. It reflects the habits of its wearer almost like a painting on a canvas. Recognizable, iconic, reliable and durable.Premium Denim stands for quality, craftsmanship and innovation. Fabric innovation allows a company to set itself apart in the industry through the ability to create fits that are contoured to perfection.”

We are giving below the list of exhibitors that will join the show and their respective countries and categories . Enjoy the show !

PS: Get in touch at Whatsapp no. : +919815630600

Broad Trends :

• Three Dimensional
• Winter Texture
• Indigo Outre
• New Coatings

Three Dimensional Fabric

Characterful textured constructions continue to trend with more 3-D weaves emerging for 2013. Dobby weaves, waffles and indigo cord / Denim Valley by ROYO indigo seersucker / Herringbones become intricate and over-constructed / Corduroy advances in an indigo palette / Destroyed and laundered patterns

Herringbone Fabric

Herringbone constructions move into denim with laundered and indigo aspects for F/W 13. Herringbone weaves continue / Updates make constructions more denim-centric / Soft and supple weaves for tactile . winter options / Laundered and faded indigo looks / Visual weaves move from specialist to core markets

Tweed Wefts Fabric

Debuted at the last edition of Denim by PV, tweedy winter weaves continue for F/W 13. First pioneered by directional mills for S/S 13 / Strong winter story focuses on tweedy textures / Twisted yarns and
salt ʻnʼ pepper wefts / Indigo and ecru or black and white color ways / Space-dyed fill yarns / Strong menswear heritage feel / Cozy and brushed surfaces

Brushed Fabric

A perfect F/W trend, brushed and tactile surfaces are luxuriously soft denim options. Brushed denim faces and reverses / More vivid move-on from S/S 13ʼs soft focus surface trend / Focusing on hand,
mills look to brushed finishes for increased winter appeal / Brushed cottons with peached surfaces / Soft moleskin and fluffy appearances

New Neps Fabric

Returning for F/W 13, neppy imperfections update with various effects. Multicolor neps for F/W 13, as predicted in Stylesightʼs Denim Outlook Summer 13 / Bold neps with colored rainbow flecks / Melding of traditional vintage imperfections and modern, playful updates / Un-singed and unrefined surfaces / Thick winter wool looks / Continuation of the tweed trend for F/W 13 / High contrast white neps on deep indigo.

LumberJack Looks Fabric

First documented in Stylesightʼs Denim Outlook, Runway and Denim Developments, plaid denim continues to diversify. Focus on outdoorsy lumberjack looks / Cozy denim styling drives this fabric trend / Teflon coatings create strength. as well as warmth / Woven plaid jacquard denims at Nihonmenpu / Fine and lightweight jacquards offer a refined look at Tavex / Printed and brushed wefts / Harris tweed looks play to heritage themes.

Knit Denim

Building since S/S 11, knit denims remain key at many PV stands.
Strong construction for F/W 12 and S/S 13, the look continues for F/W 13 / Isko patented knit indigo range expands for F/W 13 with new items and washes / High stretch, active denim capabilities / Knit-look denim and denim-look knits / Super-soft and ultra comfort denim / Laundry techniques become more aggressive and sophisticated / Selvedge knit from Nihomenpu / Now at retail, this fabric development will be key for the next few seasons.

Rigid Stretch Fabric

Clean-looking high-stretch denims develop for F/W 13. Alternative to satin or Tencel® jegging stretch, rigid stretch looks look 100% authentic / Appealing to Menʼs and purist denim markets / Visible twill lines and clean, saturated indigos / Mix of authentic denim looks with technical stretch capabilities.

Flattened Fabric

Contrasting the high level of texture for F/W 13, clean, compact and slick denims remain strong. Smooth and refined finishes and glossy surfaces create premium denim looks / Raw denim in 70s bright casts / Durable, dry and dense weaves / Premium rigid and selvedge fabrics / Deadstock raw, clean constructions / Compact constructions give denim smooth shine.

Sateen Fabric

Sateen continues to appeal to the premium Womenʼs denim market.
Strong for Womenʼs winter stretch denims / Compact and glossy constructions / Soft focus and peached aspects / Many mills releasing flexible prepared-for-dye (PFD) fabrics / Laundered finishes and shot indigo effects.

Plastic Aspect

Glossy denims show no sign of abating for F/W 13. Leather looks morph into a plastic aesthetic / Continuation from S/S 13 Denim Outlook story / Clear plastic and PVC looks / Premium finishes and outdoorsy waxed looks / Quilted, creased and cracked looks update coatings for F/W 13 / Mirrored shine and wet-look effects.

Destroyed Coatings Treatments

Thick resin coatings become denim-centric with new rubbed and destroyed looks invigorating the market. Last winterʼs leather looks become destroyed and rubbed / Dark palette of black, gun metal and deep chestnut / Rubbed-off resins reveal contrast denim beneath / Tumbled and stone-washed finishes grind off coatings / Matte
surfaces or glossy finishes / Unisex story.

Pastel Pearl Treatments

First called out for S/S 13’s Denim Outlook, the pastel pearlescent trend moves into F/W 13. Pearlescent finishes move leather and metallic trends forward / Tight, romantic palette of muted pastels and pales / Pearlized finishes update denim colors / Cosmetic and skin shades / Sprayed color creates various laundered looks at Artistic Milliners / Pearlescent and iridescent effects soften denim / Key look for Women

Disco Denim Treatments

Denim treatments develop with eveningwear finishes and high-shine looks. Shine and coatings become key denim looks for winter / Glossy disco looks for 2013 / Woven shine and Lurex continue / Fashion color palettes renew the look / Purple, pink and white mix with metallics / Lurex wefts in stretch denims / Sprayed, painted and resin-coated glitter.

Denim Thertrics Finish + Texture

Opulently feminine denims emerge for F/W 13. New flocked and jacquard surfaces / Focus on tactile textures and expensive techniques / Indigo and black color ways / Dramatic reds, golds and yellows update the look / Flocked looks become winterʼs fashion-denim surface / Floral, lace motif and William Morris designs.

Indigo Patterning Print + Patteren

The indigo pattern trend continues with new techniques renewing the story. Modernized Japanese influences / Micro check and stripe patterns / Dobby surface pattern weaves / Japanese Wabash spots rework for the European market / Aztec looks rework in indigo / Florals transform in layered indigo ways.

Laundered Stripes Print + Patteren

As traditional railroad looks begin to wane, new effects enliven assortments. Combination of print with laundry creates a rich, layered look / Worn-out and destroyed stripes / Faded and obliterated prints give items real denim appeal / Classic indigo and ecru palette updates with bright overdyes / Chalky and smudged pinstripes / Awning stripes in new fashion shades.

Spray Wash Wash + Color

Diffused spray laundry trends are key this season creating fresh effects. Smudgy hand-painted sateens at I.T.V. / Spray effects offer many new wash possibilities / Gradations and color bleeds / Creased then sprayed denims for a modern take on whiskering / High-color story with pinks, purples, oranges and reds / Flocked surfaces are rubbed and destroyed to create soft-focus looks.

Threadbare Color Wash + Color

Contrast wefts remain strong; destruction techniques create new effects. More fashion-driven wefts in bright tones and chalky pastels / Indigo, grey or black warps / New pale warps emerge
with laddered and destroyed effects / Bright contrast wefts revealed / Color moves from S/S 13 to F/W 13

About Stylesight: Stylesight is a leading provider of trend content, tools and technology for creative professionals in the fashion and style industries.

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Women’s Denim Collection : Autumn/Winter ‘13-14

Here is a report from Stylesight – the leading trend agency worldwide – on the trends from Denim By PV held in Dec’11.

Cheat Sheet

1. Soft touch remains a key focus for many mills Cellulose TENCEL® and Modal fibers become essential Soft-focus looks for peached surfaces and dense, tactile hands.
2. Growing each season, eco-friendly technology remains key for S/S 13
   Recycled yarns become more widely used and aesthetically pleasing
   Low-impact technologies, fibers and processes remain priorities for mills.
3. Finishes and treatments evolve shine for S/S 13 Pearlescent and iridescent looks move on from traditional resin shine. Two-tone and shot silk looks create fashion-forward denim surfaces.

1.Engineered Herringbone

Herringbone evolves for S/S 13 with new 3-D weaves. Graphic and pronounced herringbones create cord-like surfaces / Deep ridged textures offer tactile touch / New take on the engineered stripe trend / Workwear and tailoring references / Double weaves and double-faced fabrics.

2.Dobby Weaves

A trend that emerged at last winter!s show, dobby weaves had a stronger presence this season. Small, intricate designs created using dobby attachments on looms / Allover geometric designs / Raised, extra
yarn weaves create 3-D looks / Honeycomb and waffle appearances / Broken twill variations / Strong white weft presence on fabric faces.

3.Duck Canvas

A trend that emerged two seasons ago at niche mills, duck canvas offerings grow to meet demand.Clean and durable canvas constructions, reminiscent of workwear fabrics / Neutral shades of ecru and mustard /Indigo overdyes and yarn dyes / Premium selvedge canvas as chino alternative / Popular visual texture with rugged associations.

4.Salt+Pepper wefts

Tweedy textures emerged two seasons ago and continue their importance for S/S 13.Switching focus to weft yarns, creates a more subtle, wearable fabric / Weft textures add visual interest to denim faces after wash-down / Twisted yarn alternative with a more menswear and heritage feel / Cozy denim look for summerweight denims.

5.Marled Grey

Mélanges create a summery textured yarn for S/S 13.Neppy, textured and flecked greys / Jersey denim looks / Inspired by retro marls and activewear / Cone Denim!s recycled yarns / Twisted yarns and slubby surfaces / Menswear-centric story.

6.Knit Indigo

Jersey-look indigo or indigo-look knits emerge for S/S 13.Knit indigo is making big waves in denim / Focus on comfort denim with soft and stretch capabilities / Indigo knits at Isko led to Diesel!s “Jogg Jeans” range / Bossa, Calik and Montebello are all experimenting / Ultra-high stretch / Improved recovery and super-soft hands / Activedenim hybrid fabrics for casualwear.

7.Tencel Stretch

Stretch continues to be a key denim initiative with new TENCEL® blends for S/S 13. Super stretchy blends merge the fluidity and softness of cellulose / Orta Slow Fit TENCEL® and cupro blends have memory stretch / Huge range of TENCEL® stretch fabrics by Italdenim includes colored denims / Surfacesare glossy, super-soft and malleable / Second skin feeling.

8.Soft Focus

Focusing on hand, mills look to finish, weave and fiber advancements for increased tactility.Brushed cottons have peached surfaces / Sateen weaves remain important / Tightly constructed, dense stretch weaves/Soft moleskin looks and fluffy appearances.

9.Dense+Compact

Clean, compact fabrics have smooth and refined denim finishes.Premium looks with clean and compact surfaces / Durable, dry and dense weaves / Deadstock raws and clean constructions / Dry and flat finishes give denim smooth shine.

10.cellulose updates

Cellulose alternatives to traditional cotton are flooding the denim market.
New innovations continue to drive these denims forward / Lyocell expert Royo offers colored, laundered and treated blends for S/S 13/ Cone explores unexpectedly authentic yet super-soft blends, proving denim does not have to be lightweight and fluid / Black TENCEL® denims emerge.

11.Vintage Drape

Open construction and drape offer comfortable hands and summery, vintage attitude. Lightweights reemerge for summer / Focus on open, fluid and unstable weaves / Crosshatch lightweights remain an important texture story from S/S 12 / Comfortably worn-in fabrics create an “old favorite” jean feeling / Bias cuts enhance drape.

12.Recycled Yarns

Working toward a sustainable future, mills highlight recycled denims.
Reused denim scrap waste from fabric and garment manufacturing stages / Cone Denim!s EarthSPUN wefts made from recycled green, brown and blue plastic bottles / Eco-premium recycled selvedge denim from Nihonmenpu / Paper wefts at Calik Denim / Unique indigo shades and neppy constructions / Textured fill yarn qualities.

13.Linen/cotton

A key S/S 13 development, mills look to linen to update traditional all cotton denim.Air-dried and creased looks have casual summer attitude / Linen wefts bring cooling properties / Glossy yet relaxed surfaces / Neppy and slubby yarns / Used on 7 to 12oz. denims.

14.Slub chambray

Chambray looks rustic with slubby and neppy textures.Vertical and horizontal slub yarns / Rustic updates for plain weaves / Exaggerated crosshatches are key / Skyblue indigo shades / Vintage loom defects nod to the Dust Bowl era.

15.Summer greens

Last season!s green-cast denims become laundered and muted for S/S 13.
More obvious, cleaner greens take over from tinted green indigos of last season / Chambrays and textured,neppy denims / Rustic weaves and vintage laundries / Pale pastel looks and recycled wefts at Cone Denim /
Unisex denim story mixes vintage with fashion.

16.Pastel wash

Pale shades are two-tone, diffused and laundered.Soft palette of baby blue, mint green, peach and pink / Whitened colors and coated pales / Pastel shades bleed through at seams / Colored wefts with white warps / Breakages and surface distressing create interest.

17.Pearlescent

For S/S 13, resin finishes become pastel and pearlescent.New stretch coatings offer summer alternatives to leather / Super shiny / Glitter particles / Color ranges from pastels to girly brights / Pearlescent resin finishes suit Juniors and Tweens.

18.Luminescence

Distinctly purple-cast, two-tone denims emerge for S/S 13.Two-tone indigo replicates shot silk / Colored wefts with indigo warps / Iridescent yarns and glossy TENCEL® /Focus on glossy surface sheen.

19.Lurex shine

The shiny denim trend strengthens with metallic yarns, wefts and treatments expanding offerings.Liquid gold and silver effects add dazzling glamour to denim / Iridescent metallic lightweights at Kuroki / Metallic
coatings become malleable, lighter weight and fluid for summer / High stretch constructions.

20.Plastic people

Clear resins give new plastic shine to black and indigo fabrics.Polished looks achieved with new resin layers / Flattened constructions create a starched and pressed effect /Shine creates sculptural and molded relief to denim / Clean, classic denims transform with sophisticated finishes.

21.Color explosion

Attendees could not ignore the vast color ranges for S/S 13.Color stories show no sign of abating for S/S 13 / Colored wefts in significantly brighter shades / Saturated brights and gemstone palettes / Quirky contrast red, purple and green wefts against blue.

Color d : Colored Premium Denim Fabrics For Spring – Summer 2013

22.Awning stripes

Railroad stripes inspire a new breed of indigo pattern for S/S 13.Thick woven awning or prison stripes / Horizontal looks / Mattress ticking and vintage tea towel looks / Doubleweave denims with striped wefts / New jacquard plaids at Nihonmenpu / New proportions and scales move the story forward / Screen-printed and discharge stripes / Ecru and indigo color palette.

 

About Stylesight: Stylesight is a leading provider of trend content, tools and technology for creative professionals in the fashion and style industries.

Or check out the excerpts below :

Cool Items

Here are some cool items in denim noticed with various denim brands.

Grafter Shirt – Cool Item

The railroad jacket has saturated the Men’s market, and new weights update the item for S/S 12. 8-11 oz weight denims and chambrays / Shirts with squared-off hems and large pockets / Shawl collars offer a maritime spin / Bright red-cast indigos are reminiscent of Chinese chore coats .

Gang Jackets – Cool Item

Channel your inner rebel with these customized Westerns. Gang, rebel and biker-inspired / Studded back patches and felt appliqués / Skulls, monsters and horse heads / Torn-off back patches reveal dark indigo beneath.

Lightweight Leisure Pants – Cool Item

The looser, casual pant continues to trend for both guys and girls. Lightweight fabrications like TENCEL® mixes and jersey denims / Strong active direction with elasticized waistbands and hems / Loose and relaxed cargo styling / Dropped or elongated flies and seats / Roomy through hips with tapered hems.

Flared Sailor Pants – Cool Item

The flare gets a nautical makeover, taking it into Summer 2012.Wide-leg flares in saturated indigos / Sailor pant-inspired stitch-down front pockets / Clean or glossy finishes / Slash trouser pockets and tie-waist details.

Guys Smart N Lose !

Lightweight denims and chambrays / Coated and water-proof surfaces / Longer jackets with drawstring waists /  Half- placket popover tops / Nautical detailing such as lace-up necks and contrast white drawstrings / Saturated deep and bright indigos.

Prepster Shorts – Cool Item

Guy’s shorts smarten up with refined, mid-thigh inseams and trouser styling. Lightweight and relaxed Summer item / Straight cut and worn neat on the hips / Stitch-through front pockets or trouser slashes / Satorialist, tab-front fly / The selvedge chambray trouser-short is a key item for S/S 12.

Styling Trends

Sartorial Worker

Button-down collars and bow ties / The railroad jacket is given a tailored update / 40s Land Girl references / Fitted chore coats / Neckerchiefs complete this 40s look.

Tokyo Prairie – Styling Trend

The prairie trend drives new, long silhouettes into the Women’s market.The full-length prairie skirt emerges as a new item / Exposed button flies and slash or patch pockets / Full, A-line culotte shapes / Draped dresses with prairie styling / Zip-front skirts at Tiger of Sweden are a modern take .

Naval Styling  – Styling Trend

Naval influences drive the workwear trend forward for next Summer.Key items include the sailor pant with stitch-through front pockets and the double breasted peacoat / Fisherman sailor, button-front details / Indigo and white color palette / Railroad or hickory stripes / Lace-up front openings / Anchor motifs on buttons and coin pockets.

Fabric Trends

Azure Indigo – Fabric Trend

Royal blue has hit the saturation point for S/S 12.  Fashion-forward shade is reminiscent of Chinese worker jackets / Glossy and raw in vibrant tones / Lightweight fabrics are key for this Summer fashion shade / Over-dyeing accentuates vibrancy / Yarn-dyed warps and weft.

Salt N Pepper Constructions

The return to durable worker fabrications leads to salt n pepper constructions. Twisted threads include indigo and ecru, grey, brown and white / Marled and flecked effects / Salt n pepper wefts for a more subtle texture reverse / Shirting weights / Rigid workwear looks / Traditional twisted yarn techniques for added strength..

Fabric Trend : Indigo Pattern

Trending for a few seasons, railroad stripes are joined with dots and micro repeats for S/S 12.Railroad, ticking and hickory stripes / Wabash spots and “Stifel” inspired prints / Modernized bandanna and neckerchief prints in indigo and ecru / Multi-layered and colored stripes at Leviʼs Made and Crafted.

Neppy Chambray  – Fabric Trend

The overwhelming trend for chambray in the marketplace leads to textured fabric updates.  Slubby and neppy yarns offer rustic character to basic weaves / Sky-blue indigo shades / Basic chambray shirts are re-invented / Quilted surfaces at Lee add to surface texture.

Print and Pattern Trends

Print and Pattern : Grain Stack Stamps

Classic rubber stamped workwear branding is joined by Americana slogans and updates.  Solid black on indigo or ecru / Branded symbols and logos / Nautical and workwear references / Destroyed and worn finishes / Cornelli and chain stitches / Mechanic’s coverall looks. Solid black on indigo or ecru / Branded symbols and logos / Nautical and workwear references / Destroyed and worn finishes / Cornelli and chain stitches / Mechanic’s coverall looks.

Design Details

Ladies Utility – Design details

Clean, minimal styling drives new Women’s tops and dresses.

Graphic Patch – Design Details

Last season’s patch-and-repair looks are stylized and re-worked for Summer 2012. Multi-patched tonal indigos / Graphic and geometric placements / Clean seam detailing / Contrast pockets, collars, internal linings and front plackets.

Wash and Color

Clinical Ecru – Wash and Color Trend

Ecru takes prominence as the Summer shade of choice for denim. Clinical lab coats and Western jackets look fresh in the color / Unrefined and unbleached cottons / New Summer white alternative / Predominantly for Menswear.

Color Ranges  -Wash + Color Trend

Recent color palettes are given a quirky update for next season. Classic primary colors / Off-beat or muted tones / Burgundy and salmon hues both at Lee and Tiger of Sweden / Sun-bleached mustards, acid washed brown and burnt orange / Saturated hues.

About Stylesight:  Stylesight  is a leading provider of trend content, tools and technology for creative professionals in the fashion and style industries.  Visit their website by clicking here

What Were The New Denim Trends

This was a season of a perfectly imperfect jean. The following effects on denim jeans could be noticed:

• hard abrasion- ripped and torn denim!!!
• dirt and stains .
• oil marks .
• very extreme washes!!!! + finishes
• dirty and paint staining
• paint and bleach spotted garments
• holes
• patch work
• bleach spots
• tye dyed (green casts)
• warp cotton indigo + green fill dyed
• pu coated jeans (with pigments)
• permanent wrinkles + no pressing simple blowing of jeans and even without blowing..

Another noticeable product was HIGH TECH DENIM——- special treatment on denim with special products which improve and activates blood circulation!! . The only question is the permanancy of this kind of product.

It was surprising to note that ECO Denim was not showing too much — perhaps due to the heavy and extreme washes.

I could also notice new finishing plants and laundries attending the show.

It seems that the revival of the jeans is now more concentrated on finishing and very comfortable stretch fabrics.

Color Denimsystems

Application of color on the denim was in various forms :

• with pu coating weft color metallic yarn
• coating + pu coating -pigment
• overdying

Cozy Denim

Soft denims could be described as the ones with the following materials :

• Tencel
• T400/ Lycra
• Bi-stretch-high stretch-open weaves

Some Photographs From The Show

Click on thumbnails to see the larger image..

This is a guest post by Rik Vanniewenborgh who has over 30 years experience in Denim Industry. He has worked over 25 years in the VF Corporation (Belgium) in various capacities (including quality control)and has travelled over around the world living and breathing denim. This post is from his recent visit to the Denim By Premier Vision Fair Edition December 2009.Contact him on email here.

See some of his other posts here

The next edition of the Denim Show – Denim By Premiere Vision – is due on Dec 2nd-3rd at Les Docks/Paris Saint-Denis and it promises to celebrate the Spirit Of Japanese Spirit Of Jeans..

The show orgainsers say

” Denim by Première Vision now turns the spotlight on Japan. This leading player in the world of premium and selvedge denim inspires and fascinates the jeanswear world. A country of strong contrasts, where authentic handicraft, the cultivation of natural indigo, and an extreme approach to the hand-made juxtapose and are combined with the most advanced technology. It will provide a unifying theme to the decoration, displays and spirit impregnating the show’s 3 halls, for a dazzling “Tribute to Japan.”

Focusing on the Japanese Jeans as a theme is a very good idea and long overdue as Japanese denim industry has made a significant contribution to the denim world – whether it is bringing back vintage denim to the forefront or making selvedge denim popular .

Besides new exhibitors like Japanese denim producer Kurabo , more than 60 exhibitors from various denim sector professions like weaving , accessories, finishing and laundering etc are participating in the show. This seems a fairly good participation level and shows the continued strength and optimism of the denim sector.Check out this link to find the list of the participating companies.

And if you were wondering which denim brands visited the show last time around , here is a small(actually big !) list –

BRAX C&A CAMBIO ESCADA ESPRIT HUGO BOSS JOOP MAC MODE MARC O’POLO MUSTANG NEW YORKER ORSAY PIERRE CARDIN PIMKIE S. OLIVER TOM TAILOR WINDSOR SASS & BIDE AMERICAN CLOTHING ASSOCIATES ANDRES BABSON ZOTTO CASSIS – PAPRIKA DIRK BIKKEMBERGS PARASUCO JEANS 5 UNITS IC COMPANYS PSYCHO COWBOY WON HUNDRED BERSHKA DESIGUAL INDITEX INDUYCO JOCAVI SA KLEYMAC MANGO MASSIMO DUTTI RICHARD DAVIS STRADIVARIUS A/X ARMANI EXCHANGE ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED – CITIZENS OF HUMANITY AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS CK JEANS DONNA KARAN EXPRESS GAP JC PENNEY JOHN VARVATOS MARC BY MARC JACOBS MARTIN & OSA POLO RALPH LAUREN SEARS TUMMY TUCK JEANS UNIQLO URBAN OUTFITTERS WALMART 3 SUISSES A.P.C. APRIL77 ARMAND THIERY S.A.S ATELIER LADURANCE AUCHAN BARBARA BUI SA BCBG MAX AZRIA BILL TORNADE BIZZBEE BONOBO BURTON CAMAIEU CAROLL CELIO CERRUTI 1881 CHARLES CHEVIGNON CHIPIE CHLOE CHRISTIAN DIOR CINQ HUITIEMES – EDEN PARK CORLEONE ETAM FACONNABLE GIVENCHY SA HARTFORD IKKS JAJ SCHOTT JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER JENNYFER JULES KAPORAL KARL LAGERFELD KENZO KIABI KOOKAI LA HALLE LACOSTE LANVIN LEONARD LIBERTO MARTIN MARGIELA NEW MAN NU OKAIDI ORCHESTRA OXBOW PROMOD REDSKINS SANDRO SHAM’S SINEQUANONE – REUVEN’S II SURFACE TO AIR TEDDY SMITH THE KOOPLES YVES SAINT LAURENT ZADIG ET VOLTAIRE 7 FOR ALL MANKIND BENETTON CARRERA DIESEL DOLCE & GABBANA FORNARINA GAS JEANS GEOX GIORGIO ARMANI GUCCI GUESS GUILDERS ITALIAN RAGS LOUIS VUITTON M&F GIRBAUD MARELLA MARINA RINALDI MAX MARA MELTIN’POT MOSCHINO PHARD SIXTY TEDDY SPA VALENTINO BLUE BLOOD BPC AMERSFOORT CARS JEANS & CASUALS BV DENHAM DEPT G STAR GARCIA JEANSWEAR IL DOLCE INTOXICA JUST BRANDS LAKESIDE FRANCHISE MEXX OLD WOOD JEANS PEPE JEANS TENUEDENIMES THE HILT – RAGS INDUSTIRES TOMMY HILFIGER WE SALSA JEANS ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ALL SAINTS RETAIL ARCADIA BURTON MENSWEAR COS DEWHIRST EVANS FIREFLY CLOTHING FRENCH CONNECTION GEORGE GIO GOI LTD LEE COOPER LITTLEWOODS MARKS & SPENCER MATALAN MICHIKO KOSHINO MIH JEANS NEW LOOK NEXT RETAIL PAUL SMITH RIVER ISLAND STELLA MCCARTNEY TED BAKER TOP SHOP TROUSERS LONDON WAREHOUSE ACNE CROCKER FILIPPA K GANT AB H & M LEVI STRAUSS LINDEX NUDIE JEANS SVENSSON JEANS CARHARTT EDWIN KOHZO STRELLSON COLIN’S JEANS LTB MAVI JEANS

The theme of the fair was  ECO-FRIENDLY TEXTILE Fair-trade. However, I  did not find this theme back in the stand of the exhibiters. Here are some points related to Denim that I noted in the fair..

1. The key players for denim were in the first place from  PAKISTAN and in less numbers from  India and Bangladesh and Vietnam.
2. General trend was given to the DENIM FABRIC and less emphasis was given  to the washes!!!
3. Denim Mills – some propositions:

ADM(Pakistan): proposed the stretch comfort 360°

SOORTY(Pakistan): had a good collection and was very aggressive  

        in  selling.

4. Many exhibitors showed Tencel/ Lycra and Polyester blended fabrics. However, for Fabrics blends with tencel the washers should pay special attention and be careful. A Special washing recipe is required ,but the representatives of tencel know the recipes and can support the washers if needed to overcome problems.
5. The fabrics are very soft ,good drape and slightly shiny, and not to0 heavy ( mainly around 11OZ).
6. Also visible were black denim  and color denim ( by  companies like Raymond UCO).
7. Prices of the denim fabrics were not a secret anymore, some of the Asian producers use it as an advertising picture!!
8. The heavy washes disappeared ,,, back to the dark and only rinsed washes.
9. There is a growth of 30% visible in the Asian denim market, but the European market is down for 20% as people are saying..May not be exact figures but indicative of the trends.
10. Some other denim fabric types/finishes noted :New faded organic wool/cotton blends/ natural dyes/ waxy cottons Black magic/ glossy techniques/ rubber coating/ perfect bi stretch…….
    This is a guest post by Rik Vanniewenborgh who has over 30 years experience in Denim Industry. He has worked over 25 years in the VF Corporation (Belgium) in various capacities (including quality control)and has travelled over around the world living and breathing denim. This post is from his recent visit to the Texworld Fair at Paris..

At the Las Vegas Project Show last week, premium denim turned out to be hot favourite.. And the lines of crowds that could be seen  were not in the buffet line  but were of apparel buyers trying to place orders for jeans.

"Walking the show, denim as a category was the busiest category. And True Religion was by far the busiest," said Needham & Co. analyst Christine Chan.

At rival denim brand, Citizens of Humanity, orders logged on the first day of the show were double those of a year ago, said Chief Operating Officer Gary Freedman.
As per NPD  Group – the research firm -  the premium denim market is valued at around $1.32 billion and grew 5% in the 12 months ending June 2009..
The premium denim brands continue to attract investor interest because the category still enjoys high margins. One of the premium denim brands to have registered super growth this year is True Religion – its stock has grown over 77% this year !

However, though this Reuters Report generalizes the state of premium brands, the Super Premium Brand category has suffered some setbacks in the first half of this year and many brands have lost their sales . But on the whole, the denim sentiment is positive  and it portends well for both the basic and premium denim categories.

Also, check out here a list of Summer 2009 Brands by Project Show..

When and where  is the show ?

The show shall be starting on the 1st Spetember through 3rd September at Munich ,Germany.

Which Denim Mills are expected to participate  in the show ?

The  core group comprises of Denim Mills like Hellenic Fabrics (Greece), Ortaanadolu(Turkey),Italdenim(Italy),KuraboDenim (Japan) ,Raymond UCO Denim (India), Kuroki (Japan)  etc .
Some new mills are expected to participate this time including  Rainbow Denim (India) , Kassim Textiles (Pakistan) , Swift (France) etc..

What is the denim trend motto this time ?

The bluezone is oriented towards the motto “Sonic Youth”. This trend theme stands for an anti-establishment movement and the individual lifestyle of a rebelling youth ready to fight for its ideologies – whatever it means !
WSGN – a leading fashion and style forecaster will present the denim trends in the forum area..

Some highlights of the last fair in Feb’09

1. Last time around, about 59 denim mills, washing plants and finishers participated in the the denim zone – The Blue Zone – exhibited their fabric collections and new finishes.  In the last show, an interesting highlight was the presentation of  over 16 styles of  jeans and tops  of Xfit lycra created by the students of the University of Hanover under the auspices of the Bogner Jeans .
2. Denim fabric trends : Bleached ocean blue ranging from light blue to almost white, bold destroyed effects, fabrics in washed medium colours, arty and moon-washed fabrics, coloured and washed-out denims, striking graphics, colourful prints, raw denim,
   but dark, denim shirts, glitter effects.
3. Download the report on the denim zone – the Blue Zone – here
4. Some denim related photographs from the last Munich Start Fair
   
   
   
   

Though there has been great participation by Denim Mills in Texworld Paris , Texworld USA saw the first participation by Denim Mills in the fair held on 14-16 July at New York.

Some highlights related to Denim in Texworld USA":

1.  Jeanologia – A Spanish Research & Development company , introduced the G2 Washing Machine for Denim Garments. This machine intends to lessen the environmental impact of producing denim garments.

Rather than relying on the traditional combination of water and chemicals to produce various shades of denim, the G2 uses a process that relies on air. In addition to eliminating the use of water and chemicals, the G2 rids the finishing process of toxic emissions and dumping, and reduces overall energy usage. Jeanologia is also a poineer in producing a Textile laser product under brandname – GFK. This machine seems to  easily duplicate the most complicated distressing on any jean and produce an identical pair in minutes.. 
I hope that environmentally machines like these become popular as future belongs to these machines. The  environmental degradation caused by Jeans production is not sustainable and is bound to be checked by Govt. rules and laws in the coming years.

2. About 9 Denim Mills particpated in the show : Black Peony Ltd. (China); Fabrix Plus Co., Ltd. (Taiwan); Firemount Textiles Ltd. (Mauritius); Nantong Aufa Textiles Co., Ltd. (China); Prosperity Textile Ltd. (China); RS Denim Ltd. (Mauritius); S.M. Denim Mills (Pakistan); Soorty Enterprises (Pakistan); Xingtai Blue Diamond Dyeing & Weaving Co., Ltd. (China); and Zibo Lanyan Group (China).

Here are some reviews by the textile mills on the show and on general market conditions.

Since this has been the first inclusion of Denim in the Texworld USA, there is not much to write home about. However, since USA consumes about 35% of world denim , there is no reason that that Denim participation would not increase in this fair .