Recently Denimsandjeans held a webinar ‘Denim Washing Changes In Near Future’ with some of very well known and globally reputed denim professionals . The panelists included :

1.Vasco Pizarro – Sales & Marketing Director – Pizarro S.A
2.Daniele Lovato – Head – Elleti Group, Tunisia
3.Andrea Perego – Washing & Treating Specialist – 7 For All Mankind
4.Luca Braschi – Creative Developer – Blue Alchemy (Consultant – Uniqlo & J Brand )

The talk was moderated by Sandeep Agarwal . We now bring the comments of the panelists which came out during the talk.

Some of the common points that came out during the discussion were as below but of course there was consensus of various other points of discussion.

• Global standards need to be created by the industry only and implemented by the govt.
• Cannot wait for consumers to demand sustainable products. brands and supply chain have to do it.
• Technology is very important and we need to find ways to optimize usage of existing technologies and resources.

Andrea Perego

Andrea was of the opinion that the final consumer is more focused on the price and quality and he may sometime look at sustainabiity also . However, it is the job of brands and retailers to push it even if the consumer does not realize it is sustainable.

Technology – Andrea said “We are having a lot of new technology and we can do a lot of things with the technology and machines that are available in the market. Sustainable technology and washings are more expensive than normal one. Sustainabliity for me is also optimization of processes. A platform like HIGGS index can be useful to create global standards for sustainability.”

Daniele Lovato

He spoke of how too many people trying to get on the sustainability bandwagon and creating green washing . There are too many certifications and standards which dilute the efforts of sustainability and there is a need to narrow down these so that the efforts are more focused and customers can understand easily. He also said that solution for global standards must come from the industry.

DIFFERENT WASHES ASKED BY CONSUMERS – “Its like chicken and egg. Consumers will also be asking for new things but will also trust brands to do so . There will be shift to more visual, more authentic and not boring ! Online sales ensures sales of more photogenic and aggressive looks.”

Tech : Circularity programme is very important to save resources. A circular product does not need only a ciruclar industrial process but needs to be engineered from the beginning as a circular garment. So its not only washing but the entire system that needs to adapt to circularity. He spoke about using data to use in our garment industry. There is very little raw data being used and the next big thing is the use of software, technologies, AI and other tools to all stakeholders in the supply chain and we are ignoring this at the moment. Data is king !

Sustainability – When it becomes a standard across the industry – will be cheaper than producing traditionally. But until that moment it is going to be more expensive than standard one. In 2010-11 they offered their first eco collection called Earth keepers and prices were almost double compared to traditional but now the gap is closing . Currently a medium wash sustainable and same wash unsustainable – the difference would be 15-20%. Only on a higher scale of production the sustainable wash would be cheaper.

Luca Braschi

Luca mentioned that technologies like LASER AND OZONE lasers are very old but they were not used much . But now there is a push from the brands to use it more and more. He also spoke about new generation of chemicals which are synchronizing with these technologies to achieve the right result . It is currently a priority not only about matching samples of the customers but also to do in the right and sustainable ways.

He did not expect much change in consumer awareness of sustainable products post covid . Consumers are looking for references and what brands can do is offer transparency . He also felt that demand for health and safety finishings was getting higher now.
Performance properties are getting more and more important.

“Technologies to sanitize existing garments so that huge inventories can be used appropriately has to be created. Have to use existing technologies in a better way by combining them. Working with very low liquid ratio – some machine makers are working on and can help.”

Uniqlo set up their own R&D centre with very clear targets like saving water 95-99% converted with traditional methods and in 3-4 years combining available technologies like laser and ozone and new generation chemicals . Uniqlo is also transfering this technology to their contractors. Being a big organization like them also helps to push change .

Being sustainable with a low price is a big challenge and that is being addressed. He felt that he did not like when the market is becoming technology addicted – the washers have also to use their brains to find solutions in existing resources. At the end numbers would justify that you did something sustainable. It is sometimes possible using simple technologies also .

Most sustainable wash- At Uniqlo they did was a wash in which they dried the garment only once , combining all processes in same bath, created a laser application with real effects and not requiring another application and save over 95% water compared to traditional wash and used only three chemicals.

Vasco Pizarro

Vasco spoke about optimization and a resource conservation . Substituting PP spray and stones. Since Pizarro is located in Portugal where the costs are high, they to optimize resources. Eg they have aaved over what 50% in steam used.

Vasco also mentioned that there is too much focus on washing whereas the impact on evironment during cotton production, yarn and fabric production and ultimately how garment is used is ignored. Too many certifications are focused on washing and miss the above points including the human impact. He did not see much special demand seen for health and safety finishings.

Speaking on technolgoies, he also felt that a lot of road needs to be covered with existing technolgoies. He mentioned that they had developed a zero closed water system with Jeanologia which can have a great impact and enables them to use same water in our washing for 22 days with marginal loss . This saves hundreds of thousands of litres per month.

He also mentioned that re-purposing existing technologies like ozone would be important. Wiser wash technology has been very well accepted on the market. Pizarro also has programmes with retailers on the garments that are already at the stores and are not selling for re-treating and re-purposing them. They work out special processes to help them re-purpose . He also was of strong view that competitors must talk to each other and try to create industry standards.

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The company was financially disturbed for the last  few years due to the widespread delocalization process that had hit many Italian and European production facilities and had recently announced the financial restructure scheme in February 2016. The company tried very hard to stay afloat bringing together its   available resources and even asked for an agreement with creditors in October 2015 and submitted a debt restructuring plan in February 2016. However, company failed to satisfy the tribunal and therefore, on April 6, the Bologna tribunal rejected the proposed plan and declared the filing for bankruptcy.The company   finally filed for bankruptcy under Chapter 11 and on   July 28,the tribunal had authorized to continue the production of existing orders till 31st December,2016.

After the announcement , the Italian company, Elleti Group, which is a  specialized finisher and manufacturer of Pole acquired Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili . The consideration paid for this acquisition has not been made public however the speculations are in the Industry that it is profitable deal for the Elleti Group. After acquiring the long time appreciated and trendsetting Martelli Group, Elleti Group will further increase its ability and know-how and will potentiate its presence in Italy and foreign markets. Recently this group did its merger with a denim garment manufacturer form Urbania, Blue Line and after that this giant acquisition will definitely pave a way for its better presence in Global Market .

Luigi Martelli ,  the legend who started Martelli  in 1960 worked with the fashion world’s most creative talents, applying special finishes to embellish fabrics and garments and had one of the best teams worldwide to bring great wash effects to denim. Stone wash invention is credited to Martelli team specially Giovanni Petrin. The company achieved top quality and highly innovative results. In the past, the company owned four divisions in Italy, four other enterprises abroad and employed up to 3,000 people.

Three Italian Subsidiaries of Martelli Lavorazioni Tessili located in Vedelago (near Treviso), Toscanella and Medolla (near Bologna ) will come under this acquisition , it is expected that they might produce up to 10-12 million garments per year.

About Elleti

Born in the early ‘80s as a small local laundry, Elleti immediately became the center for denim treatments reinvention, remaining till these days the milestone for the major Italian and international brands. With 8 production facilities based on 3 countries,  Elleti is able to supply a complete denim service, from the concept development to industrial production of verticalized product. With their roots well into the Jeanswear history and their innovative spirit always focused on the search and creation of new trends.

   The First Global Denim Online Show

1. Hi Vasco ! Eco blast from Pizarro is supposed to be the first alternative to sandblasting in the world. Is it true? Pl explain the process for our readers

Yes Sandeep, it is true, this process is the first in the world to be completely certified as a sandblast substitute.

The principle is the same where we use a high pressure hose to deliver an abrasion blast to the garments, except that we change all the things that could cause any harm to workers. We started by the building where we installed a revolutionary exhaust system that cleans the workspace for the workers, at the same time, all the booths are connected to this exhaust system that separates all the bigger particles and reuses it, the smaller ones go to special filters that are cleaned every day. We have developed a special abrasion material that we called EcoPowder and is present at the European Union Chart of Non Hazardous products, so with this, the values that were analyzed by an independent lab regarding exposure to dust were very very low. Even with this all the workers have to use special masks so they are protected at all times, as well as hear protection and every six months all the workers are subject of hear, eyes and lung tests. To help the workers we also created a special belt for back support so the workers don’t have lumbar problems.

2. What are the major disadvantages of sandblasting that you have overcome

That is a very good question Sandeep, but as you know this traditional process is one of the worst problems of the textile industry and people around the world are subject of very bad conditions that lead to disease or even death. We created this answer with the well being of workers in mind so there was no major or minor disadvantage to overcome but a problem as a whole to deal, so we are confident that this represents a new era in our industry where the environment protection and the workers well being have to play a key role in our strategies.

3. Is your process patented?

Yes, this process is world patented by our company.

4. What is the main purpose behind this new technology. Do you wish to serve your customers with it or will you also share/sell the same to other laundries around the world?

As I said earlier this response is part of a sustainability policy that our company has been developing for several years, so for now our main purpose is to serve our clients and the more than 18 million garments that annually pass through our company. Innovation is part of Pizarro’s DNA, we are company that modifies all of its machines, that find new uses, new techniques and new process for all the technology that our team creates. This industry its evolving to a state where everyone wants information but do not want the hassle of creating something new. Sharing is out of the question and selling technology is not our business but we are not closed to any kind of challenge.

5. Is there a particular certification which helps to calculate the overall impact of your process?

When we say that our process is certified by an independent lab of course we have the overall study of our process. In this case the lab had in mind the standard values of European Union laws, that are already some of the most tightest in the world, and evaluated our process in exposure to dust, exposure to noise and environment illumination. It is certified for the well being of the most important player in this process, the worker….

We don’t know how such processes can be spread out around the world to make the textile industry more responsive to worker needs and less polluting. But we can say that the such innovations provide great directions for the industry to take up and reform.
The process of Ecoblast can be more easily understood in the following video by the company . Check it out !

These figures look relevant for washing and finishing houses in countries like China, Bangladesh and other Asian countries with high production capacities . Europe was long left behind in this race as the costs soared and it was unviable to wash  and finish at mass scales  in Europe..Also , washing and finishing on denim is an art that Italians have perfected in Europe and whenever a discussion on this topic comes up, one tends to immediately think of them . Hence , when we come to know that the above figures pertain to a washing / finishing  house  of Europe and that too non-Italian , we need to sit straight and take notice !

Pizarro, based in Portugal,  is a large company doing full package services for large brands/ retailers and dealing with EU and US markets mainly.  I spoke to the Marketing Director  of the company – Vasco Pizarro – to find out what makes this company tick and enables it to swim against the tide. After the conversation, I could sum up their secret of growth  in a few words – ‘Innovation in technology and systems’.. Our conversation goes thus :

1.Hi Vasco! Yours  is a large washing / finishing & logistics/ printing/dyeing  house  in Europe. Can you explain in more details about your company.

This year marks the 30th anniversary of Pizarro S.A. My father, along side my mother, started this company in a small garage with just one machine. We still manage the company in family with my family fully involved in the business. Today we have 650 workers divided in laundry house, dye house, print house and finishing house, although in the most part of our business we work only in garment, for some top level brands we supply full package.

2.Washing laundries/ dye houses in Europe are disappearing . How is your company growing from strength to strength?

Yes you are correct Sandeep, in fact these types of companies are disappearing from Europe. Our company grows through a mix of factors like these: We have a very good balance between scale economy and high level brands. We have a relationship with the Inditex group for almost 25 years and we have adapt our structure to respond very very fast to all our clients. Beside that the finishing & logistcs is of a great value to all our clients because we can receive raw garments and put them ready to go to the stores in 2/3 days. The cost of labor in Portugal is not as high as the rest of Europe and we have a very good financial business that reduces heavily the costs with the whole structure and not only labor but chemicals, machines, etc. We only invest in things that can allow us to evolve constantly, for example for you to have an idea we were the first European company to automatize   the dye house in 1993, then the laundry house We were the first company to have the three levels of certification, Quality, HSW and Environmental.. We are always in the cutting edge technology, but also our team of professionals is one that we are very proud of.

3.Icelite  – achieving the sandblasted look with dry ice is one of the latest technologies. Your company is understood to have  invented this process .Pl tell us something about it . Is it a commercially feasible and future ready technology?

The idea started in 2011 and when some brands responded to the incident in Turkey and the health problems that emerged due to the use of silica in the sand.With that in mind my father start doing several tests with different materials and equipment. He first tested it with a water blast .But the results were insufficient and he turn to a great friend of his that is a manufacturer in Italy. They both start exploring ice. The journey was not easy, but in 2012, in September we receive the first Icelite machine in the world.

The machine uses CO2 to create ice that is store at -70 degrees.Those small particles are used to create an abrasion blast that gives that vintage look to the garments.It can be used in every type of garment and the savings are significant:
– 70 litres of water per garment
-and 150 grams of chemicals per garment

These effects and final looks that you see in our garments are due, not only with the icelite, but also mixing ozone washes and laser washes. We called it EcoWash.

4. These are big saving.. but do you plan to shift major part of your washing to Icelite technology? It must be expensive..

We have a big project in mind that will revolutionize even more these savings and will allow us to turn the Icelite even more competitive that the sandblast. These will allow almost any company that want to work with us to do garments with Icelite. For now its a little bit more expensive to do so and therefore only the high level and Pull&Bear are doing it..So as you can see its already in a commercial success and we believe it will be the future of Denim.

5.You also print a huge number of garments in your company. Do these include denim garments also ?

We are printing a great deal of Denim garments…the demands of our clients are with vintage prints without touch.Even on jackets, if its Denim these are the prints that are trendy. Specially on vintage looks, total garment laser or just partial is something that our clients are asking a lot. All our prints are done garment by garment..

7.. Do you see any specific trends in denim washes for SS14 ?

For trends we  see that the vintage look (in terms of trying to imitate the  natural aging of garments) its something that is not going to stop. Furthermore the 3D whiskers are also something that is not going to stop. Another trend that we see is the  imitation of leather or glow on jeans – leather coating and  metallic coating.

Here is a video on Icelite  process and some cool pics from Pizarro..

• But how to measure the environmental impact of the washing ?
• Can it be quantified ?
• Is there any way that  processes be compared on a yardstick and compared to see their comparative environmental impact to enable the washing manager to make a decision on a process ?

The EIM Software (Environmental Impact Measurement ) software from Jeanologia aims to provide this decision making tool to the washing managers. It provides an understanding the Environmental impact in the following individual categories:

• Water consumption
• Energy consumption
• Chemical product used
• Worker health

  The software aims to provide the user to identify the major causes of environmental hazards as he puts in the details of his washing process and help the managers to arrive at a decision on which processes to select

Garment finishing processes are complex and the number of combinations in the laundry processes to have a determine look are infinite. The number of variables involved in a laundry process are very high and the environment where the processes are made influence directly in the final scores. With such an adverse scenario Jeanologia tried to create not the perfect tool but a simple and efficient one that can give a close approximation to reality.

Here is a small video from the company to show certain aspects of the software

What are the new developments that Martelli is presenting currently ?

We are currently working on several research levels. There is what we do for our customers and there is what we do for us not to "flatten". In this case we are studying the washing more environmentally sustainable in the sense that it involves a lower CO2 emissions, because they use less energy. It is not a simple process, we are working primarily with suppliers of chemicals like Garmon, in order to reduce CO2 emissions with washes and finishes using cold temperatures. Then, as always, we work hard to offer our "vintage effect" which is always greatly appreciated by all customers. Regarding dyeing even here we are from several years an avant-garde cold-dye.

Many brands and retailers have banned sandblasting. What are the new technologies that are being used for achieving similar results ? Are these technologies viable ?

Regarding sandblasting there is to say that in Martelli Europe we have always managed to propose the same or almost the same effect, without recourse to sandblasting. We are aware of the dangers which involves blasting , also we have to say, it is greatly reduced in new sealed implants the risks for operators. However, our thinking is that every process under high pressure produces dust, this sooner or later go airborne and is filled by someone. I do not think there is a powder that protects worker health, on the contrary, there are dusts that cause silicosis and others that cause asthma and other problems. I wonder if you simply replace the sand with vegetable or metallic abrasives, powder in the air remains. Similarly, using type solutions of carbon dioxide ice, certainly don’t help the environment and costs that do not believe customers want to endure. We go forward on our way, trying to use the technologies we have available. Customers appreciate our approach.

I hear that you are implementing the SA 8000. Can you tell us more about the same ?

It is true Sandeep and thanks for the question, we’re starting with the SA8000 which is the last after the ISO14001 ISO 9001 the OHSAS18001 we already have with the UKAS. Even here we are following with consistency in the way of quality, total quality. North European customers especially appreciate the fact that we have certifications, with SA8000, some multinational companies can forgo to make the social audit direct, as there has been announced by one of these. We are a company who has care of environmental issues but also of its employees.

How is the denim market in terms of washing requirements? Do you see any difference in the current market  requirements compared to last year ?

There is a growing trend to ask three-dimensional finishings (3D) with resins, then there is always required the vintage effect is probably our strength. As regards fabrics, in the summer collections all customers have a model with cotton stripes fabric.

Are the brands trying to save on washing to reduce the cost of their garments keeping in view the increased cotton prices ?

It was as a rule attempt to reduce costs with suppliers. Some young or inexperienced buyers sometimes tends to overdo it and it is how to cut the branch where you’re sitting. Now this trend it is slowly disappearing, the world is changed a little. The relationship with suppliers today it is not only “cost-money” it should be strategic in terms of partnership. The most experienced buyers and sourcing managers, remember that we (all supply chain)are clothing fashion industry. We cannot copy the speculative and short-sighted attitude of certain finance, particularly now after we’ve seen disasters that brought us the crisis of 2008. Today in clothing from fabric to the laundry, we see many closures and few openings, I don’t  think it is still the case to cut costs.

Here are some details on the vintage washes that Martelli is presenting :

SOYLENT GREEN – ECO

Wash Details :
KURABO FABRIC: SW STONE WASH + COLD DYEING = ECOLOGICAL TREATEMENT DUE TO THE TEMPERATURE SAVING:
* BY USING COLD STONE WASH IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH ALSO REPRESENTS A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR
* BY USING COLD DYEING IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH ALSO REPRESENTS A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR

CROCKER – ECO

Wash Details :

KURABO FABRIC: SW STONE WASH + COLD DYEING + WORN EFFECTS MADE 100% MANUAL = ECOLOGICAL TREATEMENT DUE TO THE TEMPERATURE SAVING:
* BY USING COLD STONE WASH IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH REPRESENTS ALSO A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR
* BY USING COLD DYEING IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH REPRESENTS ALSO A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR

KOJAK -ECO

Wash Details :
KURABO FABRIC: ECOLOGICAL VINTAGE GAINED THROUGHT AMPLE WATER AND TEMPERATURE SAVINGS = 3D EFFECT (3D EVOLUTION) + MULTIPLE MANUAL WORN EFFECTS + COLD STONE WASH :
* BY USING COLD STONE WASH IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH REPRESENTS ALSO A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR
* BY COMBINING COLD STONE WASH WITH NEUTRALIZING IT RESULTS A SAVING OF APPROXIMATELY 16L OF WATER / UNIT
* BY USING RESINS WHICH POLYMERIZE AT 90° C INSTEAD OF 140 ° C, IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APPROXIMATELY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR
* THIS TYPE OF RESINS DOES NOT CONTAIN FORMALDEHYDE

DET STAVROS

Wash Details :
KURABO FABRIC: SW STONE WASH + MULTIPLE WORN EFFECTS / COLOUR MADE 100% MANUAL:
* BY USING COLD STONE WASH IT RESULTS A SAVING OF 30 ° C, WHICH REPRESENTS ALSO A SAVING OF 3 m³ CH4 (METHAN ) OUT OF BURNING = APROXIMATELLY 5.7 Kg OF CO2 EMISSION IN THE AIR

RIZZO

Wash Details :
KURABO FABRIC – AN OLDER TYPE OF TREATEMENT MEANING DRY DECOLORATION, BUT COMBINED WITH NEW PROCEDURES SUCH AS 3D EFFECTS CAN GENERATE INTERESTING RESULTS, MAINLY WASHINGS WITH A MORE AGGRESSIVE VISUAL IMPACT
** THIS TYPE OF PROCESS ALSO HAS AN ECOLOGICAL ASPECT DUE TO THE FACT THAT IT REDUCES THE WATER CONSUMPTION WITH APPROXIMATELY 16 L / UNIT, UNLIKE A DECOLORATION MADE WITH A NORMAL WASHING MACHINE.

You can just watch all these presentations in a slideshow below :

Also, here is a cool video from Martelli showing some of their vintage wash processes .

Want to contact Mr Mauro Angelini ? Email here

Sandblasting has been used by the clothing industry to give some products (specially denim jeans ) a worn look but the process, if done incorrectly, it can expose workers to crystalline silica, a compound found in sand. Crystalline silica has been classified as a human lung carcinogen, according to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration. Dust can enter the lungs and form scar tissue, reducing the ability of the lungs to take in oxygen.

“We’ve implemented rigorous standards for sandblasting in our own supply chain but we decided that the best way to help ensure no worker — in any garment factory — faces the risks associated with exposure to crystalline silica is to move to end sandblasting industrywide,” said David Love, senior vice president and chief supply chain officer at Levi Strauss & Co.

Scientists, unionists and some nongovernmental associations, particularly in major manufacturer countries such as Turkey, India and China, say the widespread technique causes the lung disease silicosis.

Though both companies had procedures in place to control the sandblasting procedure, they decided not to depend on their suppliers to follow them and rather decided to abandom the technique altogether .

“H&M has had health and safety requirements for sandblasting for several years. Like all other Code of Conduct requirements, the monitoring of sandblasting practices has been part of our extensive Full Audit Program,” said Karl Gunnar Fagerlin, production manager at H&M, according to a report on the firm’s official website. “At the same time, [ensuring] that these standards are being observed by all of our suppliers and their subcontractors has proven too difficult. In order to make certain that no worker producing denim garments for H&M risks his or her health, we have decided to quit purchasing and retailing sandblasted products,” he said.

“There are other ways to achieve a worn finish,” the release by Levi’s said. “We’re confident our customers – no matter how they like the finish of their jeans – feel the same way.”

I think it is a very welcome move by Levi’s and H & M. We have seen incidences of problems caused to health of workers in countries like Turkey , India and China . It is only hoped that the denim industry as a whole would abandon Sandblasting as there are way many other options available today to get similar effects.

Please tell me something about Martelli and its operations in various countries.

The Martelli Group is present in Italy, Romania, Turkey, Morocco and Tunisia. Romania was the first international Facility.In general we try to follow our manufacturing customers and most of these have moved to these countries for labor costs reasons. It is much harder for Martelli to move because of the complexity of our plants and start-up costs, however we are going in this direction.

How do you think is Martelli different from other washing laundries in Europe?

I think the main difference is the fact that we are fortunate that the owner and founder of Martelli has always invested heavily in systems and technologies. The other difference is that we satisfy all our customers both big and small , for us the customer is sacred.

How important is denim washing in your total washing operations?

Denim washing is a major part of our business. Our strength is in garment finishing as dyers which is more technical and chemical orientated, however we are also experts in laundry and denim treatment. Now probably denim is the core business. It is true that today it is no longer enough to be an expert in washing and dyeing, but we must be able to offer our customers solutions ranging from ‘import-export to supply chain organization, when required.

We hear you do washing for all major denim brands in Europe. Could you name a few?

At group level I think almost all popular brands were and still are our customers. This happens because Martelli has over 50 years experience and was one of the pioneering companies in garment finishing. Our customer base includes Diesel, Armani, Levi’s, VF, Replay, D & G and many others, the list is long.

What are the washes your customers demand the most .

Complicated washing, resin treatment and complex manual work.

Vintage denim washing.Has it peaked or do you think it will still grow in popularity?

Fortunately, a simple rinse is not required anymore, we just specialize in vintage finishing and our customers continuously ask for more

What are the basic requirements of a denim fabric to be given severe vintage washing effects?

Resistant fabric, low fault, the yarn should only be indigo dyed and indigo ought to be dyed without the addition of sulfur dyestuff or hydronic.

I believe you developed some great washes on hemp denim. Can you tell us something about them?

Thank you, these are washes that I love very much. In fact the Martelli Hemp Project was born on a known debate among experts on your Denim People’s Group on Linkedin. For me hemp is a very interesting material, for example in Italy there was a tradition for this material in the past. Now I see it is less than probable it will completely replace normal cotton which has a market niche , this seems to be correct since it has good features and is probably a step towards environmental sustainability. We wait the response of customers.

What do you think about the rebound of the acid wash trend? How is it different from that of 80s trend?

In the 80s Acid Wash was intended primarily for a discoloration with permanganate, after it passed the dichloro (but gave problems on metal accessories, such as rivets) today there is a clear return of washes where the request is for the total discoloration indigo thread. They are very beautiful and evocative, we are working on this with the help of new raw materials (chemicals).

What do you think about the increase in the popularity of Organic Denim? Is it really useful for environment in the current form?

I think we do our best to take into account environmental and the eco-sustainability of products. Organic denim is a trend that I see well because it opens up the debate on product although many industry insiders have doubts, I think the organic denim will drive a series of products with reduced environmental impact. In my humble opinion, we need more consistency by all, such as our plant is certified ISO 14001 (as well as ISO 9001 and OHSAS 18001) we very open to requests from customers on environmental issues, we only ask to be compared not only for the final price, which of course will be a little higher than competitors who do not respect the law or the environment.

What, according to you, are the most popular washes this summer of 2010?

Acid Wash, Overdye, Vintage Look.

Where do you think a washing laundry adds more value to a denim garment – in dry processing or wet processing?

On reviewing the rigid garment from manufacturing you see the added value from laundries. Both processes, wet and dry are crucial. It is not easy to discuss seperately because they are complementary, however if I have to give my opinion then laundry is always necessary and indispensable.

Conciousness about the environmental impact of denim washing is increasing. Has it started impacting the denim washing processes?

For the moment there is no change and I think to be more environmentally friendly washing does not automatically mean ugly or unattractive. Furthermore, we as a company are ready to invest again and to meet requests coming in this direction. To me it seems that in general customers are not willing today to pay a little more in return for products with low environmental impact. All this will happen when the mass market will require more of these type products, I think there will be a push on this from top-down and there will almost certainly have an impact in the coming years, in the meantime, we should develop and offer these products to the brands.

We hear about a lot of new machines,chemical products which help in saving water, energy etc. Do you think these kind of products make a difference ?

Of course new technology helps us, also I think we have to consider the suppliers as sources partners and not only press them for cost reduction. In this direction and cooperation I am sure we could find the solution. For me business environment and natural environment move together.

Any washing advice you would like to give to our readers – many of whom are denim manufacturers ?

My suggestion is visit us at one of our locations! Thank you very much Sandeep.

Mauro Maria Angelini has a law and an MBA degree and is the Managing Director of Martelli Europe since 2001.

Martelli Europe Washing Plant

The concept of ‘Sustainable Denim’ – an eco friendly approach to denim is being enhanced by their various machines , the foremost of which is the G2 Waterless Washing Machine. This is a unique washing machine which washes denim jeans with about 60% less water and almost no chemicals…….!! In Hongkong, Jeanologia had a large hall dedicated to their “Truth & Light show” where they displayed their uniquely washed garments. The visiting denim experts were asked to select , from pairs of jeans, the jeans which had naturally aged and the one which had been made by Jeanologia with the help of their laser technology and unique G2 washing machine.Most of them could not differentiate between the two . It was an interesting way to understand that real aging effects could be achieved with eco friendly washing methods.

How does G2 work ?

Air from atmosphere is transformed into a blend of active oxygen and ozone called ‘Plasma’.This plasma is used to age garments. The plasma is transformed into purified air before it is returned to the atmosphere.

What kind of washing effects can it provide on the jeans ?

G2 can provide various effects on the jeans like

•Casting:

• Aged Cotton – unique yellow cast for true vintage looks in Pure Indigos
• Gray casts for a retro look

•Cleaning:

• Removes backstaining & loose indigo without detergents

•Bleaching without the bleach!

•Eliminates the need for Potassium Permaganate spraying.

•Blacks and grey denim fade without turning brown.

•Eliminates yellow from bleach look.

•Improves crocking in dark finishes.

•Provides various other fashion finishes.

If so less chemicals are used, how are these washing effects attained?

Jeanologia use laser technology instead of chemicals to mark the washing details.If desired, further effects can be given manually by grinding and scraping. The laser maps out the washing details required and then the garment is given a short wash. The garments are then placed in G2 where the laser effects are brought out with the plasma. The garments are then rinsed and dried. This is how the washing details are attained.

Is it possible to duplicate washing effects of an existing jeans ?

Yes, with their laser technology, the washing effects of an existing jeans can be mapped out and then replicated on new garments . This does away with the trial and error approach to replicating vintage washing effects.

What is capacity of the G2 machine in terms of load factor ?

The machine has a capacity of 50 kgs ie it can wash about 3000 jeans in a day. G2’s programmable software system automatically adjusts gas concentrations to reflect load conditions (i.e., jeans, tees, wet, dry, etc).

From a case study of actual production in the US,the company claims that using G2 can result in 67% savings in energy and water, 55% savings in time and 85% saving in chemicals and can thus provide a saving of $0.44 per garment washed besides contributing to environmental protection and reducing health hazards for the workers.

Denim jeans washing is one of the most environment polluting activity in the apparel industry . According to Professor John Anthony Allan from Kings College London, a Kg of jeans comes to us after about 10,850 litres of water has been used ie 1 Kg of jeans has this much of embedded water . Of course this includes even the water used in growing cotton. But the carbon footprint of jeans is very high. In the recent years , the increased requirement for specialized washes has further increased the environmental impact of denim production. In such a scenario, any technology that makes it possible to cater to fashion requirements and at the same time contributes to environmental protection, should be welcomed .

Here is a slideshow presentation on G2 Machine

Jeanologia can be contacted here : Michelle Branch

Acid wash is again becoming popular on denim jeans and we are going to see more of acid washes in the coming seasons. Here , lets have a quick look at the acid washing process .

An acid wash finish treatment creates significant contrasts in the color of the denim material. It can be done on Indigo & Sulphur base fabric garments. As the randomly faded, acid washed style came into vogue in 1980s, the process of treating denim in such a way began to become increasingly refined. Some tried to use a method similar to the stonewashing, yet the fading did not occur as dramatically or throughout the material.

In 1980’s this washed being launched as first innovative finish on denim ever. This was being done by soaking stones in Bleach and making acid wash effect followed by neutralization. But this process was not so re find to get some how consistent & smooth effect on denim. In early 2000 some laundry tried doing the same wash soaking thermocol bolls in bleach or pp solution to get this desired effect.

While this process can be done using either light bleach, chlorine , potassium permanganate etc. The most popular is PP Bleach and will produce the best acid washed results. Doing the process is very simple , but following all parameters in correct way to have right & repeatable results. The load size of garments, machine drum diameter, quantity of soaked stone / towels & skilled operator.

Initially, the Acid Wash process involved soaking pumice in Industrial Strength Chlorine .However, it was discovered that potassium permanganate was more controllable and just as strong an oxidizer. They simply marinated pumice stone in it and then vacuum packed the stone to the required moisture level. Acid wash was a chemical process on  denim that stripped the top layer of color off to a white surface with the undertones of navy blue remaining in the jeans.

The Materials

The process of acid washing jeans involves porous pumice stones or small towel pieces and chlorine or Pp Bleach, such as you would put into a bucket or in drum for soaking process. Sodium-bisulfate is used in the second washing for Neutralization. Also recommended is access to two separate washing machines. One for Acid Washing & another one for further process i.e. Neutralization etc.

The Acid Washing Process On Denim Jeans

The process of acid washing jeans used chemicals, stripping off the color of the top layer, leaving the white fabric exposed. The color remained in the lower layers of the material, giving it a faded look. Acid washing could be done overall or made to look splotchy.

1.Soak porous pumice rocks or pieces of towels in chlorine or PP bleach solution for about 20 minutes to an hour. The longer you soak the pumice or towel, the more prominent the effects will be.

2.Once the stones are saturated with chlorine/pp, remove excess water from stones/towel then put the stones in machine followed by the jeans in a washing machine for about 20 minutes. Make sure machine do not have single drop of water, open the drain during complete process

3.At this time, check on the jeans to ensure they look acceptable, and then move them to another washing machine for a regular washing process. Too long in the first machine can totally bleach or ruin the jeans, and too little time may not produce the desired results or can make patchy appearance. Check on the jeans once every 10 minutes or so during the second wash process of neutralisation to ensure the desired look is achieved.

4.Next, fully dry the jeans in a dryer that gets nice and hot.

Precautions

Any time we mess with chemicals such as bleach or chlorine or PP, be sure to protect workers by wearing mask & aprons , so it is best to be fully prepared. Also, protective rubber gloves and safety glasses are highly recommended. These products can burn skin and eyes pretty badly.

About Author : 3E’s Consultants, Group of experts, focused on Denim Fashion, Providing consultancy to all Denim Garments Finishers..Contact for further info email here