Why did you feel the need to come out with the new NCD process ?

The NCD process (Natural Conscious Dyeing process) came a long way. The introduction of pre-reduced liquid Indigo was a big step forward to improve Indigo dyeing significantly, achieving better control and making it more sustainable. It  allows us to reduce the amount of an inorganic, toxic chemical required for the reduction of Indigo (Hydrosulfite) significantly. Until today, a substantial amount of Hydrosulfite is required to keep the Indigo dyeing process stable. Not anymore! Bluwit allows us to replace Hydrosulfite completely, imagine Indigo dyeing without Hydrosulfite!

Hydrosulfite, being the standard reducing agent for the dyeing of Indigo, is contributing to the typical appearance of Denim with dark shades and ring-dyeing effect, yet it is also unstable in solutions and inorganic salt is generated and discharged into the waste water. Finding an alternative for Hydrosulfite which is ecologically sound and performing like Hydrosulfite was driving our team in BluConnection since our inception.

You mentioned that Bluwit is the first organic reducing agent. Can you tell more about it?

It is the first organic reducing agent which produces real denim with authentic washing effect without compromise on dye-build-up and dark shades are achievable with 5-6 dips. This is important for denim mills to be able to produce denim with the same or similar esthetics.  

At the same time they can benefit from a reducing agent which is biodegradable in contrast to Hydrosulfite.

With Denimblu36 AR being a pre reduced indigo , what benefits in terms of commercials, sustainability and quality does it offer to mills and  downstream garment producers?

We launched DenimBlu36 AR, which is 20% stronger than our original product DenimBlu30, enjoying a good response from the market. We are applying a purification process to reduce aniline. DenimBlu36 AR is our best product, reducing the CO2 footprint, meeting all retailer requirements effortlessly. At the same it is cost efficient. I ask myself, how cost efficient we should be to make everybody in the supply chain happy? – Today the Indigo cost for 1 pair of jeans is 6-9 cents!

When it comes to brands, what kind of advantage does it give them for their sustainability claims ?

Naturally brands can benefit from both our products, DenimBlu36 AR in combination with BluWit, as explained before, ticking all the boxes product wise and manufactured in our new green factory, which was inaugurated in 2022. Our factory is zero discharge, generating the majority of the required energy from solar panels and demonstrating with our “green wall” and green landscape our commitment to people and the environment. In view of upcoming supply chain regulations, it will surely support those brands, retailers and denim mills, who take their commitments towards a sustainable environment and people seriously.

What customers were you targeting with this new product at our Denimsandjeans Vietnam show?

The NCD process is suitable for every denim mill!

For more details , connect alexanderbock@bluconnection.com

We recently interviewd Mr. Baber Sultan , Director Product & Research for his insights on what they have been doing lately and the collection that they will be launching at our Japan show . We share the discussion below :

a) Artistic Milliners is recognized as one of the most reputed global denim producers. What do you think have been the key ingredients for this success. 

If I had to sum it up, I believe Artistic Milliner’s success as a globally recognized denim producer stems from a few key principles. We relentlessly pursue advancements in denim fabrics and production processes, always seeking to push the boundaries of innovation. Sustainability is at the heart of everything we do, driving us to minimize our environmental footprint.  As a vertically integrated company, we oversee every step of the process in-house, ensuring exceptional quality and flexibility. We collaborate closely with global brands, understanding their unique needs and delivering tailored denim solutions.  And of course, we empower our people and invest in cutting-edge technology.  Lastly, we recognize our responsibility extends beyond the products – we are committed to ethical practices and making a positive impact on our communities.

b) Recently we hear about a lot of focus on Regenerative Cotton by AM. Why do you think this is important for you? Do you think regenerative cotton can be more important than other sustainable cotton fibers. 

Yes, regenerative cotton holds the potential to become even more important than other existing sustainable cotton fibers. Unlike organic options that focus on minimizing harm, or recycled fibers that conserve resources, regenerative cotton proactively rebuilds soil health, promotes biodiversity, and captures carbon. This results in stronger, higher-quality fibers for more durable denim while offering significant environmental benefits. While challenges like upfront investment in new farming practices and developing consistent certifications exist, the overall benefits make regenerative cotton a compelling choice for a more holistic and long-term sustainable denim industry. As consumer awareness and supply increase, expect to see regenerative cotton play an increasingly dominant role in denim production. That’s why we’ve ventured into the space with AM-REGEN, as part of a holistic pilot project aimed at exploring more sustainable cotton cultivation methods. We are providing regenerative cotton to partners such as Jack & Jones.

The regenerative agriculture pilot project is being executed in Rahim Yar Khan, Pakistan, with close collaboration between Artistic Milliners, the World Wildlife Fund-Pakistan, and local government bodies. The initiative follows Control Union’s certification programme, RegenAgri.

c) Star Fades has been a success story in nearshoring and sustainable quick response to market needs. You are also expanding this to Guatemala in some way. Can you give more details on the same. 

Yes, when SFI has been great for us. When we acquired them in 2020 we had a vision: to be the one-stop shop for denim development with a global reach. Guatemala is a step in that direction.

SFI customers can now take advantage of our partner Denimville’s speedy close-to-market production. Known for quick turns on samples and production, the more than 750,000-square-foot facility can produce 400,000 units and 1,500 samples per month. The factory offers garment sewing, washing and dyeing, sustainable ozone and waterless finishing, and dry processing. This network can save six to seven weeks of transportation time compared to production coming from Asia, SFI reports, allowing customers to respond to trends, avoid retail markdowns and offer just-in-time deliveries. Ultimately we want our Western Hemisphere customers  seamlessly execute their vision with our teams from fabric to finishing, and our teams from Pakistan, Mexico, and Guatemala are geared to help them do that.

d) We thank you for deciding to launch your AW 24-25 collection at Denimsandjeans Japan in March’24. Can we have some hints on what makes this collection special. 

The collection we are perhaps most excited about is one that stems from a collaboration with Mr. Masaaki Sakaguchi, called Shogun. Shogun aims to combine the timeless allure of Japanese denim, reimagined for the modern wardrobe. It honors the legendary craftsmanship of Japan, blending it seamlessly with cutting-edge advancements for unparalleled comfort, superior washability, and a conscious approach to production showcasing the slubby, textured beauty that made Japanese denim famous, infused with subtle stretch for everyday ease. We truly believe in Japan being the “second root” of denim and the honour of working with a master like Sakaguchi san is meant to encapsulate that.

e) We understand AM is trying to increase its recycled fibers usage in different ways. How has been the progress in this direction? 

There has! We recently worked with Lenzing on a new approach to blending Tencel and recycled cotton fibers. The product is called  32MM, a new Tencel fiber that is optimized to create soft fabrications that have the authentic character of a classic cotton jean. The fiber’s unique structure has enabled us to scale its use of recycled cotton in our fabrics. Compared to traditional Tencel, the shorter 32MM fiber has better compatibility with cotton and allows it to blend more cohesively with fibers of modest length. It also has a greater surface area, which allows more recycled fiber to bind to it. Traditionally Tencel can be blended with up to 30 percent recycled cotton, but 32MM can carry up to 50 percent as per our research so far. The recycled fibers come from our proprietary recycling facility Circular Park.

f) Reducing impact through better dyes usage becomes critical to reduce carbon footprint. Do you think working in this direction is also helping you to give better products while reducing the footprint .

Yes it certainly has, and has led to some very fruitful and innovative collaborations. We worked with Archroma to leverage their Diresul Evolution Black dyestuff for our collections. It is said to be their cleanest sulfur black dye ever and has enabled us achieve authentic black denim and washdown effects with a lower impact compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid. Overall it uses 58 percent fewer natural resources and produces less carbon dioxide during dye synthesis compared to standard black dyes, the company states. This reduces workers’ exposure to harmful compounds by 59 percent. We also partnered with partnered with Leonardo DiCaprio backed biochemicals innovator Nature Coatings on a range of 100-percent cotton products made with BioBlack TX, an alternative to petroleum-based black-tone dye. The carbon-negative black pigment is derived from industrial wood waste that comes from sustainably managed, certified sources.

For contacting them, please mail here.

Nicolas, you have been tirelessly working on the Denim Deal . Are you happy with the progress?

Yes definitely, we launched this unique collaborative platform 3 years ago between brands, the denim industry and the Dutch government to accelerate the use of recycled cotton fiber made of post consumer waste textile.

The journey and the transformation progress that we have been through as a group is such a rich experience, and on top of that, we delivered encouraging results towards our goals respectively quantitative but more important qualitative.

We created a movement towards circularity based on “Design from waste” and we are arriving at the end of our first chapter in December 2023 but we are ready to expand our geographical footprint with key markets in Europe as Germany and France in priority, but also looking at other continents where we could bring the same collaborative ecosystem using our guidelines and methodology from our first experience.

Where do you think the denim industry will be in terms of environment friendliness in next 3 years.

Under the policy maker framework and brands more proactive towards responsible practices the industry will have to engage in serious changes in their production process and the way they source their fibers. As fiber and material production represent 50% of Carbon emission in the whole textile supply chain cycle, the big focus could be decarbonation.

To engage in such a strategic move, a global energy transition plan will be necessary to move out from fossil energies and engage renewable ones at scale. It will require time, heavy investments from the industry and support from the brands to keep their business commitment while giving visibility to their partners.

At the same time, the use of natural regenerative fibers that could capture carbon and ensure soil health by restoring biodiversity is also an important step. The adoption of recycled cotton versus virgin cotton is also a path towards circularity that could minimize impact on our environment.

Finally on the laundry side we should continue the efforts towards reducing the use of water and invest at the same time in the latest recycling water technology. Same for the use of chemicals , reduce their use as much as possible while engaging new alternative responsible chemistry already available on the market.

With recent changes coming up in the regulatory environment in Europe, do you think that the supply chain has geared up to  implement the necessary changes required?

There are many regulations cooking as we speak  in EU parliament and the difficulty at this stage is mainly for the brands to have a proper understanding of what is coming up and how they have to organize their supply chain in order to be aligned with these compliances.

On top of this the other issue is a lack of alignment between different key EU countries regarding , for example , the EPR system already engaged in France and Netherlands recently in July 2023. The scope, the mechanism of such a system is different between the 2 countries and brands who are putting their goods in these markets will have to adapt to these regional specificities, adding an extra layer of complexity to manage for them.

Finally as the market is extremely tense in Europe in tem of fashion consumption, brands are also losing focus on such upcoming regulations and tend to protect their business, while focusing on pure commercial metrics in order to keep or gain market share towards competition.

In such a foggy environment the fashion industry and suppliers based outside Europe have even less visibility on what will be the consequences on their organizations as their own customers, brands still navigating in stormy weather.

Even if we still have some extra  time for pure implementation, brands need to wake up pretty fast on these strategic topics while policymakers need to bring clarity and alignment to avoid cacophony.

How do you compare the brick and mortar vs e-commerce biz of the brands. Do you think that at some point of time the share of these would settle down in a range or do you see E-commerce getting more and more important .

The last few years with Covid particularly we have seen e-com channel growing extremely fast and now reducing a bit while brick&mortar was announced almost dead. I believe that you can see different success stories or failures from brands in this environment.

The brand experience from a consumer perspective is the most valuable asset and whatever the distribution channel, the product offer, the story telling and quality of exposure and engagement should be the same. Most of the time you can see discrepancies between a brand retail experience in a physical shop compared to the same brand e-com website environment.

The most powerful brands ensure the same quality level of experience and generate higher buying conversion. So I believe a good balance between different distribution channels is healthy while investing in an inspiring retail environment and ecom ecosystem are strategic and complementary to retain customers loyalty.

The international environment for business has been affected by various geopolitical issues. Do you see that the denim consumer  will somehow get used to them and regain a natural consumption pattern.

Indeed the geopolitical tensions had created multiple ripple effects on the European economy with many impacts on the consumers and degraded their purchasing power.

The macroeconomics was affected with high inflation consequently in the EU last year and started to decrease a little bit now but the consumers had to deal with various increases with energy prices, food, gasoline,housing and manufacturing goods in general.

Unfortunately during the same period wages and salaries did not follow the same trend and therefore consumers are under strong financial pressure and we can see a shift of their behaviors.

Therefore Fashion, sports manufacturing goods or even gardening business are becoming secondary expenses far from the vital basics in general. Consumer arbitration is a key factor in this environment and since Covid we can also see a shift towards spending money rather on experiences, social life , traveling rather than possessing goods.

Even the French government released last week a very controversial TV commercial encouraging not spending money on unnecessary goods and creating awareness on the environmental impact of consumption.

The short term visibility is not showing some positive economic metrics so we may have another challenging 2024 year in Europe and at the same time maybe we are assisting to a deeper transformation of the way we consume fashion goods in the long term.

For contacting him , please email here.

First of all congratulations for achieving Bronze status through the Indigood programme of Kontoor brands. Please tell us more about it.

Cone Denim received the Bronze Status through Kontoor Brands Indigood® Program for freshwater savings. With this milestone, we are the first textile mill in North America to be awarded the performance status of Bronze or better from the Indigood Program. Mills participating in the Indigood Program are third-party verified for their water savings.

Water savings is a key pillar for our sustainability initiatives, and Cone Denim has set an aggressive goal to reduce water consumption of 25% by 2025. We are on target to meet this goal with Cone Denim achieving 21.8% water savings (as reported at the end of 2022), which has largely been led by our Zero Liquid Discharge installation at our mill in Parras, Mexico. This state-of-the-art wastewater treatment system saves 100 million gallons of water annually by recycling the water used in the denim manufacturing process.

How does becoming a member of Circulose Supplier network of Renewcell benefits Cone Denim and your customers?

Cone Denim joined the CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network, a network comprised of yarn and textile producers committed to streamlining and increasing CIRCULOSE® production across the supply chain. Our partnership in the CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network underscores our ongoing commitment to drive change toward a sustainable future.

We are committed to increasing the percentage of recycled and circular fiber content in the denim fabrics we design, develop, and bring to market. Joining the CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network is among several initiatives Cone Denim is undertaking as part of our leading role in influencing the adoption of circularity in the industry.

Our customers can look forward to more options that incorporate more circular content, more recycled content, and more sustainable fibers into Cone Denim styles that maintain the authenticity and character of classic denim. We anticipate releasing our first commercial fabric with the CIRCULOSE® fiber in early 2024.

Speaking about your most recent collection, what products do you think stand out the most and why?

We recently released our Spring Summer 2025 collection and are getting a great response from denim brands on the new line.

Our Remastered capsule focuses on scalable sustainability and denim fabrics designed for longevity. They are designed to be timeless and will go the distance regarding wash range and versatility in end use. They all are in a classic denim construction. The denim fabrics in this capsule encompass a range of recycled content from 5%-100%. We are seeing strong interest from brands with fabrics constructed of 100% post-industrial waste (PIW).

Since releasing the new line, we’ve had a lot of energy around our novelty capsule, Midnight Voyage. This capsule is a vignette of novelty fabrics that include a variety of stripes, a herringbone weave, and colors.

We have also had positive reactions to Lagoon Blue, a brilliant, turquoise-cast indigo, and our super soft authentic Tencel blends as part of our “In the Clouds” concept. 

There is an emphasis on texture as a statement this season. We designed versatile fabrics suitable for various silhouettes and sizes, regardless of whether it’s a classic denim construction or a novelty weave or color.

Our Etched in Texture concept is a compilation of crosshatch, marble, and pronounced slub character styles. To answer the market need for more pronounced character, we created a menu of yarn textures from subtle to bolder.

What do you think have been the biggest changes in the denim world that you can experience post covid and with the unstable political situation?

The macroeconomic situation with inflation has resulted in the industry experiencing some softness, but things are picking up as brands work through their inventories. While business is not as strong as we want, we are seeing demand return as global denim inventories decline.

Denim brands are looking to make wash and sizing decisions much later in the buying cycle, which is pushing some sourcing for the U.S. market back into the North American hemisphere. We are also seeing increased demand for recycled content and any fabric attributes that can tell a documentable, sustainable story. Our customers are seeking options that include more circular content, more recycled content, and more sustainable fibers in styles that maintain the authenticity and character of classic Cone Denim.

You participated in the Denimsandjeans Vietnam show this year. How was your experience there?

This was a wonderful event gathering different players in the country and within the region. From local brands, garment makers, and fiber suppliers to machinery manufacturers. The show was well attended with informative forums and valuable market intel takeaways after the two-day event!

Contact the CONE DENIM team here.

We spoke with Mr. Yamada on the origins and priorities of Saab during the Japan exhibit as they participate in our first edition on Nov 1-2, 2022.

What enables Saab to work with so many denim brands even with the high cost of Japanese products?

First of all we are thank for there is such market and industrial people who have good eyes and same values.  Japan fabric is the one of best to express authentic vintage worn in.  All the Japanese mills are very unique and have creativity.   We have a lot of benefit of that and contributed a lot for position of Japan denim.

We as a manufacture always challenging new technic and progressive development to meet buyers expectations. 

Currently almost 70% of our products are export to overseas. We feel we are one of the representative supplier of Made in Japan denim and must to make consumer happy with valuable products.

What kind of customers do you work mainly with and what special can new customers expect from Saab?

Mainly working with brand with own Global supply chain.

New customer can do partner ship to do R&D throughout running production including branding.

What are the major products that you would want to show at the Denimsandjeans Japan show ?

New Development Made in Japan, Upcycling products, , Introduction our Cambodian factory and their capability.

Products:

Concept for IMG6295

Destruction and patched

A sort of garments have destructed and patched as you can see below :

Concept for IMG6297

Use 3 garments to combined to 1 sample and make it flare. Removed waistband to be low-rise.

For more details , contact – Mr Yamada at yamada@kksaab.co.jp

Rope Dyeing

Blue Smoke Selvedge

Raw denim often fades from deep indigo to lighter blue tones and finally white. Rope Dying , as we all know , is a unique dyeing procedure that causes this. White cotton yarns are repeatedly submerged in indigo dye during this process, but the strands are never submerged for long enough for the indigo to permeate the center core of the yarn.

The Blue Smoke Stretch Selvedge appears to be a basic 11 oz selvedge denim. It has a classic appearance at first glance with a black exterior wrap, however it is actually a dark shade of indigo shadow. The white weft that can be seen peeking through the twill lines adds to this. The key to this fabric’s unique Smokey color is a small amount of black tint that is mixed into the dye. Thus, these begin as a clean denim with tonal features but gradually the blue fades and intensifies with wash. More and more of those tonal details will emerge in contrast to the denim. The Blue Smoke Stretch selvedge is a terrific option for year-round wear.

Composition: 98% Cotton, 2% Elastane

Design: Black Stitching, Black Suede Patch

Color: Dark Indigo x White Fabric Weight: 11oz Fabric Origin: Japan Made in: Canada

Red Gradient Core Denim

The 12.5oz “Red Gradient Core” denim is a special Japanese Selvedge denim woven on antique shuttle looms specifically for Naked & Famous. Here the  yarn was dyed initially with a permanent reactive red dye and then rope dyed with indigo.  After certain use, the core will reveal the variety of red hues to achieve a fading gradient tone. Sanforized to prevent shrinkage, the jeans retain a firm texture that will soften with wear. The jeans were made, cut, and stitched in North America.

Composition: 100% Cotton

Color: Indigo x White Fabric Weight: 12.5oz Fabric Origin: Japan Made in: Canada

Catechu Selvedge

The Catechu Selvedge is a 12 oz. Japanese Selvedge Denim that has had its inside weft naturally dyed with Catechu dye derived from trees. The Catechu dye is created by boiling, evaporating, and collecting the residue from the Acacia tree. This indigo denim has a warm earth tone that can be seen peeking through the twill lines. To see the color of the interior completely, flip up the cuff. Short slub cotton yarn is used to weave the indigo warp, giving the denim additional personality and highlighting vertical fading. The Catechu Selvedge has the traditional raw denim feel and is stiff and crisp. With contrast stitching, a green line selvedge ID, a suede leather patch, and silver metallic buttons and rivets, this item was cut, sewed, and constructed in Canada.

Composition: 100% Cotton

Color: Indigo x Catechu Fabric Weight: 12oz Fabric Origin: Japan Made in: Canada

You can check out full Naked and Famous FW22 collection here.

1.TOP 15 US DENIM BUYERS FROM VIETNAM

Greenwashing and the abuse of terminology like “sustainable” have resulted in negative headlines for numerous businesses. In Denmark, such situations also result in hefty fines. Danish Crown (Europe’s largest pig producer) was summoned to court on June 4th, 2021, by a group of green climate activists. Since the fall, the Danish Crown has been waging a campaign to promote “climate-controlled” and “more climate-friendly than you believe” branding on pig products. According to climate activist organizations, the ad is accused of greenwashing a product that should not be called environment-friendly.

The Danish Consumer Ombudsman presented a series of court cases just before the new year as part of a new ‘short guide’ for businesses on how to deal with environmental marketing. He has advised corporations that any promises about sustainability must be backed up by facts from a lifecycle study.

Given the current controversy about the usage and use of life-cycle assessment (s) in the fashion industry, this throws up a potentially big bag of worms, especially for apparel businesses. When making sustainability claims, the Danish Ombudsman believes that health, social, and ethical aspects must be taken into account, and admits that it is “extremely difficult to name a product, etc. sustainable without being deceptive.”

According to the new criteria, organizations must be able to prove their marketing assertions. ‘As a result,  the Consumer Ombudsman advises firms to be as precise as possible when stating how a product shines,’ they write. “It is deceptive marketing if a product does not conform to the marketing.” The recommendations give several examples of when “writing favorably about a product’s environmental impact without having necessary proof” may be a breach of Denmark’s Marketing Act.

KEY PRINCIPLES

There are a few overarching elements that the Consumer Ombudsman emphasizes in the new guidance:

• As with other marketing statements, environmentally focused ones must be correct as well as both clearly phrased (so as to avoid consumers getting the wrong picture) and not omitting any important information.
• When speaking about actual circumstances you must be able to evidence what you say, and your statements must be supported by independent experts.
• You must apply the methodology of a full life-cycle analysis as support of general statements about being environmentally friendly.

THE NEED FOR REGULATION: SUSTAINABLE & ECO-FRIENDLY

The environmental and societal effect of the things that customers buy nowadays has a big impact on their shopping decisions. The proliferation of certification labels, some of which are backed by official standards and laws and others that are not, complicates this product purchase choice. Because of this variation in labeling dependability, labeling is no longer straightforward or obvious for customers. Furthermore, many labels are not just misleading, but often purposely dishonest in order to conceal the negative environmental characteristics of a product. Something is fundamentally wrong, and we need to talk about how certification labeling might assist push sustainable purchasing to the next level while also addressing (some of) the reasons for greenwashing.

The Consumer Ombudsman’s starting premise is that when consumers read a generic “eco-friendly” remark about a product, they are likely to think that it has no negative environmental consequences. This, however, is not always the case. Such comments will be deceptive if they are not verified, and the other side of the coin is that the requirements for demonstrating that you are genuinely eco-friendly are rigorous.

It must be in the form of a “real” cradle to grave life-cycle study validated by impartial specialists, not just any proof. It helps if you have permission to use an official label for the product since this allows you to utilize words like “less harmful to the environment,” “more eco-friendly,” and so on.

The Consumer Ombudsman further adds the following four conditions for phrasing the positive impact:

1. It cannot be marginal in nature.
2. It cannot be created through a process that harms the environment.
3. It cannot be weighed down by climate-damaging features, preventing, for example, products from polluting sectors from being marketed as eco-friendly.
4. It cannot be a common feature of similar products.

There are a few things to keep in mind for firms. First, if a product just meets climate or environmental criteria, this cannot be promoted as a unique characteristic. Second, statements must be updated on a regular basis if, for example, technical advancements or changes in legislation render the statement no longer factual and fair. Special rules may also apply to the marketing of specific items or to certain consumer groups.

SUSTAINIIBILITY AND THE FUTURE

Because it is simple to claim that you are acting sustainably, sustainability is one of the most regularly utilized concepts in greenwashing activities. The Danish Consumer Ombudsman defines sustainability as “growth that meets the requirements of the present without jeopardizing future generations’ ability to satisfy their own needs,” based on the Brundtland study “Our Common Future” from 1987.

But what about green and ethical clothing? Apparel is after all one of the biggest industries which face eco-friendly production issues. Many brands, in fact, have stepped into sustainable and green clothing, but are they truly doing it as well? Citing an example here. At least some organic cotton, recycled polyester, or Tencel is used in each garment in H&M’s Conscious collection. H&M may appear to be environmentally friendly when combined with the brand’s in-store clothes recycling programmes, but these initiatives aren’t representative of the company as a whole. In 2016, Henrik Lampa, H&M’s Development Sustainability Manager, stated that only 0.1 percent of donations to its in-store recycling boxes get recycled into new textiles.

Pact Apparel and Patagonia, both of which have a good track record with organic and recycled materials, choose Fairtrade certification instead of a stronger one like Fairtrade America or Fairtrade International. Unfortunately, in US supermarkets, the labels are more likely to be found on chocolate bars or bananas than on garments. So, when it comes to fashion, GOTS Certified is a wonderful certification to look for because it covers organic content, additional chemicals, and labor throughout the garment’s creation.

It’s not as simple as switching to organic cotton or promising to use less water to make environmentally friendly jeans. “There can never be 100% sustainable apparel,” says Michelle Marsh, creative director at Ã‰tica. “However, by approaching denim holistically, we can substantially cut both our consumption and our effect.” Switching to organic cotton, utilizing non-chlorine-based bleaches and bio-based natural indigo, recycling fibers, and applying all of these processes in the production of labels, hangtags, and packaging, in addition to the denim itself, are all examples of this.

“GREEN” EVERYWHERE

Because pictures speak louder than words, the Consumer Ombudsman has also looked at symbolic green communication, such as when one uses pictures, symbols, drawings, colors, or otherwise green slogans, mottos, visions, or the like to demonstrate that you are not a threat to the environment. Using such images gives buyers the sense that they are dealing with a sustainable source, which is false unless you can provide proof to back up that notion. In general, you cannot portray yourself as being greener than you are- this is known as greenwashing.

Because the Consumer Ombudsman investigates cases based on complaints, consumer advocacy from impact organizations may help to increase the number of instances where firms are accused of and probed for greenwashing in the future. The Danish Marketing Practices Act serves as the legal basis for the anti-greenwashing guidelines, with the Consumer Ombudsman interpreting some of the basic provisions in the legislation in a green context. Fines are imposed for violations of the Danish Marketing Practices Act, and the Consumer Ombudsman’s rulings are made public.

Denim is the most preferred fabric globally.  Acne Studios recognizes this well. Jonny Johansson, the co-founder of the Swedish brand, made 100 pairs of raw denim jeans with red stitching for friends and loyal customers in 1996. Denim has been a distinguishing feature of the company since that time, with each year seeing the addition of a new capsule collection reliving the fabric. Acne Studios has revealed its Fall/Winter 2021 denim collection, which pays homage to the brand’s origins.

The initial attempt made by Johansson laid the foundation for the brand’s apparel expansion and the creation of the Acne Studios fashion brand. Denim, according to Johansson, is the right material for experimenting with design. As a consequence, denim has always been a crucial facet of the brand image. Acne Studios’ latest collection was inspired by retro camping and outdoor life. As an outcome, the denim has subtle wear with a nature-inspired attitude.

WHAT THE DENIM COLLECTION HOLDS

Acne Studios delivers a highly versatile Fall/Winter 2021 collection. From tailored ensembles to sportswear with relaxed designs, this collection reflects the brand’s distinctive aesthetic of minimalist designs, “with humor, sexiness, and lightness,” according to the creative director. The assortment is breezy and playful, typically Acne Studios, laced with elegance and something more artful than the brand has ever done before. A coat and a full suit, for example, as well as some accessories such as gloves and a light scarf, are printed over and over again to create this blurred and busy Acne Studios logo repeats the pattern, which from afar looks like skid marks over the cotton base and is only noticeable up-close-and-personal, making the entire experience unique.

“This is a wardrobe that brings together the relaxed silhouette of sports casual with the tailored glamour from my dream of living in a band. It is menswear that is functional and minimal, with humor, sexiness, and lightness.” Says Jonny Johansson, creative director of Acne Studios.

The stars of the show are two new jeans trousers with denim wash treatments in dark brown, black, midnight blue, faded green, and clay. The first is the Tom 1991 ‘loose bootcut,’ which features a relaxed 5-pocket design, a comfortable fit, and a slightly washed-out look. A distinctive aspect is that it can be embellished with a matching miniature belt. The second category of jeans is rigid denim, which has a high waist, straight leg, and slim fit. Multi-patch and deconstruction treatments are also available on some denim variants. In addition to the pants, the range includes oversized and cropped jackets for a denim-on-denim appeal.  The garments are available via Acne Studios’ stores and online.

The brand has released its most experimental version of the collection with model and techno producer Laika Lillén. The brand examines its motifs and plays with perspectives of view for the Men’s FW21 season with a visual series in which the Helsinki-based artist looks and performs the collection as her music plays in the background. Aside from that collection, which blends casual tailoring with workwear having a solid psychedelic undertone, it is also focusing on a new series of fashion videos directed by Jonny Johansson and photographed by Danish fashion photographer Casper Wackerhause- Sejersen. The creatives reflect the experimental spirit of the artists’ studio or the bands’ rehearsal space through such visual artworks.

 ACNE STUDIOS SUSTAINABILITY AMBITION

The brand believes that its primary mission is to create desirable merchandise that consumers admire and can enjoy for a prolonged time. To support fair working conditions in the supply chain, it collaborates with transparent and responsible sourcing partners. The brand encourages employees to be creative. It urges to be a socially responsible organization that takes into account the ethical and environmental implications of its daily operations. As a result, the core of its sustainability goal is that it wants to be proud of its products – how they look, how they are built, and how they are consumed.

Acne Studios’ sustainability ambitions are implemented in this phrase : ‘Our products,’ ‘Our suppliers,’ and ‘Our operations’. Actions, targets, and results in these three domains are documented in the firm’s annual sustainability report. Following the aim to incorporate a greater proportion of preferred materials in its collections, 90% of the Face collection FW21 launched in July was sourced sustainably. All jersey and fleece cotton, for example, were organically produced, all knitwear was certified according to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), and all bags were made of recycled polyester. Since 2008, the brand has been a member of the Fair Wear Foundation (FWF). They assist it in its efforts to monitor and improve labour conditions at the factories where its products are manufactured.

ABOUT THE BRAND

Acne Studios is a multidisciplinary luxury fashion house situated in Stockholm, Sweden that works primarily in ready-to-wear apparel for men and women, footwear, accessories, and denim. The label was founded in 1996 and takes its name from the creative collaborative ACNE; originally an abbreviation for Associated Computer Nerd Enterprises, it was subsequently modified to Ambition to Create Novel Expressions. Jonny Johannson, the founder, and creative director, has a keen interest in photography, art, architecture, and contemporary culture, which has enabled Acne Studios to establish itself as a renowned designer of clothes, publications, furniture, exhibitions, and unique collaborations. The brand has grown considerably with 40 retail locations around the world, and flagship stores in Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles, and Tokyo. They became very popular and covetable, resulting in Wallpaper Magazine and Vogue Paris picking up on this, urging ACNE to create more apparel and expand beyond denim.

To be a part of this new business opportunity, US denim brand Madewell partnered with resale giant ThredUp to launch a new second-hand fashion platform “Madewell Forever”.This online resale platform is a stand-alone digital store curated by Madewell and stocked by both ThredUp and Madewell stores.

Madewell Forever is an exclusive microsite and an extension to Madewell’s official site. It can be accessed via a ‘pre-loved button’ on the brand’s main site. Jointly operated by ThredUp, it will offer a curated selection of used or “pre-loved” jeans. The project’s principal aim is “to collect 1 million pairs of jeans by 2023 and double the life of each recirculated garment,” the companies said in a press release. The effort as  Madewell claims “has diverted over 500 tons of denim waste from landfills.” 

 The RESALE-AS-A-SERVICE

The alliance operates on ThredUp’s resale-as-a-service (RaaS) to give used jeans a new life. Launched on Tuesday, the platform currently has over 3,000 products, with new styles added hourly. The prices range from 35 dollars to 50 dollars. ThredUp’s “resale-as-a-service” technology is available to third-party retailers since 2018 and is an expansion of the companies’ 2019 collaboration of selling secondhand jeans. The company claims to have processed over 100M unique clothing items to date and displaced 1Billion lbs of CO2.

Over the past two years, San Francisco-based ThredUp has procured partnerships with famed brands like Abercrombie & Fitch, Reebok, and Rent the Runway. But this is the first time that one of ThredUp’s RaaS clients ( Madewell) has launched a resale platform that allows customers to both clean out their closets and shop for second-hand fashion.

The companies said that Madewell worked closely with ThredUp to develop a unique, white-labeled resale channel including a digital shop, the first of its kind enabled by the service.

HOW DOES IT WORK?

Customers are encouraged to bring any brand of pre-worn jeans into Madewell stores and earn 20 dollars towards a full-priced pair of Madewell jeans. Progressively, jeans dropped off at the store in a satisfactory condition are put up for resale and assembled with the brand archives. The site is continually updated with more inventory. Jeans that are truly worn out and are unsellable get passed on to the ‘Blue Jeans Go Green program’ that then recycles denim for housing insulation.

“It’s exciting to see a beloved brand like Madewell working to extend the life of their clothes and commit to a more circular fashion future. We are proud ThredUp’s operating platform will enable and scale a meaningful resale channel for Madewell through ‘Madewell Forever’.” Says ThredUp co-founder and CEO James Reinhart.

ABOUT THE BRAND: MADEWELL

Founded in 2006, Madewell has a reputation for high-quality denim and is the bright spot in parent company J. Crew Group’s portfolio. Earlier being a casual women’s wear line, the brand expanded into men’s clothing in 2018. Retailer of apparel and accessories in the United States, the company’s products include denim, shirts, sweaters, dresses, coats, shoes, and bags, providing customers with the latest design in fashion.

As Madewell lays down a pristine outlook for the fashion industry through its sustainable attempts, it spurs the interests of other companies to inculcate second-hand apparel platforms and reduce the retail impact on the environment.

EMERGING DENIM RESALE PLATFORMS

“Thrifted denim is generally a smart purchase because of the durable nature of the fabric, which often lasts longer than other fabrics, and gets better with wear. People typically love the distressed look of worn denim, which makes it easy to be resold again and again,” said Natalie Tomlin, a ThredUp spokesperson.

As consumers turn more sensible about the environment, sites like Depop, Poshmark, ThreadUp, and The Real Real are their go-to destinations for better denim deals.

ThredUp

 Founded in 2009 and based in San Francisco, ThredUp is an online consignment store that allows you to combine the joys of online shopping and the great prices of shopping thrift. It operates with the mission to inspire a new generation of consumers to think secondhand first. By making it easy to buy and sell secondhand, ThredUP has become one of the world’s largest resale platforms for women’s and kids’ apparel, shoes, and accessories. ThredUp’s mission is to extend every garment’s life and keep as many textiles as possible in use and out of landfills.

Depop

 Based in London, Depop provides a marketplace that enables individuals to buy and sell their items on mobile platforms.  The application has attracted celebrities to open stores, with some donating proceeds to charitable causes. Depop is especially popular with the Millennial and Generation Z audience because it provides a way for them to recycle second-hand items. Depop’s popularity is attributed to its push to support sustainable fashion sources.

Poshmark

Poshmark is a marketplace for those looking to sell modern clothes and accessories, often secondhand. With more than 60 million users within North America and approximately 100 million items for sale, this platform is a great option for anyone looking to sell mid to high-end products.

Poshmark is more oriented towards Millennials. Sellers have good luck when posting brands like Madewell, Zara, Coach, and Banana Republic. On Poshmark, one can earn a premium for selling brand new items but shoppers aren’t concerned about high-value vintage pieces.

The Real Real

 Founded in 2011, The RealReal is the world’s largest online marketplace for authenticated, resale luxury goods. With a rigorous authentication process overseen by experts, the company provides a safe and reliable platform for consumers to buy and sell their luxury items. A sustainable company gives new life to pieces by hundreds of brands, from Gucci to Cartier, supporting the circular economy. The reseller is also seeing sustainability-focused brands like Re/Done, a brand is known for its upcycled vintage denim garments, the trend in the market.

While the cost-effective benefits for consumers shopping resale are present, denim is also proving to be a reliable business for the resale sites. With household closets serving as a supply to this market, resale platforms are offering consumers an opportunity of joy with a consistent rotation of new pre-owned products for less. As Second-hand fashion contributes to both business and environmental concerns, it brings about a revolution of thrifted denim which will be relished and fancied by the new age customer more in the coming years.