An interesting collaboration between the world renowned Dutch fashion designer David Laport and G-star – ‘Denim After Dark’ has enabled create a unique capsule collection The collection combines iconic denim silhouettes with Laport’s eye for detail, bringing a unique twist to the classic look.
We wanted to make something glamorous. Something feminine. Something totally different. And of course, something in denim.â€
The preeminent collection brings a new line of ready-to-wear offerings and is an expression of G-Star Raw’s long standing heritage in denim and Laporte’s design ethos. This collaboration presents us with couture dress pieces that are created with a delicate femininity as well as structural design. Moreover, the gap between couture designs and ready-to wear pieces is bridged making them more wearable.
Get Ready To Dress Spectacularly!
Signature pleat design & sculptural cuts transform casual pieces like the Bow Top into must have evening wear. The Haute Couture dress refreshes the collection with an effortless elegance making sure that you look and feel your best even after dark.
Stand out with a genius combination of Japanese selvedge denim and luxury tulle. Setting off Laporte’s signature pleating technique, you’ll be graced with an exquisite voluminous ruffle for that one-of-a-kind look. Stand out from the crowd in this exclusive mini-dress boasting a creative reimagining of classic style.
The collaboration between the duo was captured by South-African fashion photographer ultimately produced images that both celebrate nocturnal adventures and pay ode to the endless possibilities of denim design. The unexpected combination of unbridled masculine energy and feminine elegance is sure to spark curiosity with the audience.
G-Star’s raw aesthetic is paired with Laport’s delicate pieces creating a unique and interesting statement in the fashion world. Check out their collection here all in one place.
Want to explore more trending collections? Attend Denimsandjeans exhibitions in Vietnam (March 1-2) and India (April 26-27) and witness the collection yourself. Find out more here
It features an exclusive range of dresses, jumpsuits, bodysuits and tops with unique designs that prioritize comfort. The preeminent pieces include the Pull-on Flare Jeans, Indigo Modern Knit Midi Dresses, and Fit for Success Jumpsuit, alongside the four-way stretch denim offering with sizes ranging from XS to 5XL making them perfect for everyone. What’s more, the collection uses recycled cotton which makes it environment-friendly as well!
No Zippers or Buttons? Yess! You Heard It Right
Soft Sculpt is very well designed and holds and hugs all the right places providing a super comfy fit. Using soft knit fabric that offers just the right amount of stretch and structure to tackle those curves with ease, with no buttons or zippers needed. With three styles to choose from- Skinny, Flare & Palazzo silhouettes – the choice is there for most of the ladies.
With this innovative fabrication made to fit your curves perfectly, you’ll get the most flattering look ever! Check out their latest drops all in one place and find pieces that are so curve fitting ! . Experience the smoothness, stretch, and hold of soft sculpt fabric and enjoy a perfect fit like never before!
Want to explore more trending collections? Attend Denimsandjeans exhibitions in Vietnam (March 1-2) and India (April 26-27) and witness the collections yourself. Find out more here
TCE is the number 1 vertically integrated denim supplier from fabric to washing in Southeast Asia – providing sustainable, quality denim fabrics since 1956. With a denim fabric capacity of 3.5 million yards per month and of 1.3 million garments per month, they are one of the largest and longest-running denim manufacturers in Asia. The company shall be participating in the Denimsandjeans Vietnam event on March 1-2 at HCM and showcasing their latest products made with clean technologies and sustainable processes. We spoke to the Fabric Sales Director of TCE Denim Alex Cha to know more about the company’s operations and vision .
TCE is well known as one of the first denim mills in Asia – leading and inspiring the industry in this part of the world . Can you share some important milestones in the growth of the company?
TCE has grown to become one of the leading denim mills in Asia. Established in 1956, in South Korea and started Vietnam production in 2013 vertically operating from Denim fabric to Garment manufacturing. TCE is committed to continuously produce high quality products that meet market needs, and their commitment has resulted in the company’s successful growth and expansion over the years.
The first milestone of our growth is to adopt “One Stop Shopping” in ONE place by vertically integrated full package service for our customers while reducing transit time and relevant cost significantly under volatile global SCM. In addition, we continue to invest in full sustainability from innovative materials to production facilities without compromising fashion and trend.
The second milestone was the company’s adoption of a fully sustainable model. The current wastewater treatment is different from others. We treat wastewater as A grade quality followed by local government regulation. However, we feel that this process is not enough till zero discharge is achieved considering the well being of current and future generations. After treatment, the A grade water goes through carbon sand tank filtration, and then through Ultra filtration one more time. Finally Reverse Osmosis Membrane filtration process is done. The result is drinking level quality water.
Then we prepare for sustainable collections from eco-friendly materials and communicate with valuable customers every single year. In addition, we constantly investigate and upgrade our facilities for medium and long term eco sustainability.
The themes for 2022 and 2023 are Saving Earth Denim and Denim X Nature respectively.
The installation of the denim mill and denim garment manufacturing unit in Vietnam were perhaps the biggest steps taken by your company in recent years. How has the integrated operation been successful in providing a package offer to the brands?
The Simple is the Best, Through TCE’s well-organized vertical operation from fabric to garment.
Affordable fast fashion with effective production based on consumer needs in one location and streamlined procedures.
It is transitioning from an annual focus on fabric and garments just to a full package trend and swift client response. Several FTA benefits, including those made in Vietnam (EU-VIETNAM FTA, EU-JAPAN FTA, CPTTP), boost cost competitive advantage and expansion to the countries.
Your collections are well appreciated by the customers. What specific products or collections would you be focusing on during the Denimsandjeans Event in Vietnam in March?
Sustainability is not an option, but an essential thing. TCE wants to introduce two themes, “Denim by Nature†and “Saving Earth Denim†as new innovative materials focusing on sustainability.
With Denim x Nature , we believe everyone recognizes cotton is highly water and chemical intensive crop. TCE strives to study and develop many natural fibers can be alternative cotton as much as we can such as Soy, Sisal, Kapok, Abaca and Pineapple, Banana thru Tropical trees in East Asia.
Our goal is to present the audience with stylish apparel pieces that are not only attractive but also functional in nature. We believe that our collections will impress the customers at Denimsandjeans event owing to their innovative use of fabric technologies.
With Saving Earth Denim, Saving planet for next generation, TCE produces many products using recycled resources from wasted ocean fish net, pet bottle, agricultural wastes and biodegradable products such as Fish Net Denim, Mermaid Denim, Bioplastic Denim, Pre/Post consumer waste cotton, and so on.
How do you see Vietnam evolving and providing more value to global customers ?
Vietnam is garnering more attention as it develops into an Asian manufacturing hub with numerous FTA benefits and more stringent China C/O restrictions.
Next to sustainability, transparency and traceability are becoming the norm and of utmost importance. TCE is ready to offer all pertinent documentation to customers worldwide.
2022 has been a tough year for all. How do you see 2023?
Given the potential for a slowing global economy and sluggish consumer demand, 2023 is likely to be another year with significant prospects and challenges.
Consumer demand plummeted due to lingering global pandemic effects, causing companies and brands to re-evaluate their operations. To stay afloat, many firms are continuing to diversify their sourcing strategies and strengthening relationships with key vendors in response to the volatile market environment as well as keep sourcing sustainability and transparent supply chain.
In addition, we are trying to provide more valuable products to buyers as the demand for jeans continues even in the event of an economic crisis .
I think this is our own challenge regardless of the change in the external environment.
We are thrilled to announce that XDD will be participating in the 5th edition of Denimsandjeans Vietnam event, set to take place at Riverside Palace in Ho chi Minh City, Vietnam, on March 1-2, 2023.
This milestone marks the company’s first attendance at the Denimsandjeans event. The two-day event promises to offer insight into new trends, best practices, and Xdd’s commitment towards developing technologies that promote sustainability. We spoke to the Director of XDD Vietnam Mr Man Ng to know more about the company’s operations and vision .
XDD textiles has recently set up a denim mill in Vietnam . Our readers would like to know more about XDD and its background, growth etc.
XDD TEXTILE is a spinning and denim mill based in Vietnam. Also, all of our cotton is purchase from U.S. with different certifications. Eg; Cotton Trust Protocol. Sustainability is one of our strength, because of our RO system’s potential to achieve 50%, we have an overall water recycling rate of 80% this year, and we expect to reach 100% by 2025. Our fabric quality may give you a simple solution to get the vintage or marble look, coming with a great colors cast, which is our key competitive advantage over other mills. The foreword states that we work closely with Lenzing and combine different types of materials to make better products, such as blending or adding recycled cotton, employing PCW materials, such as EcoVero.
With the denim mill in Vietnam , how is the company able to serve its global customer base? Why do you think Vietnam is becoming increasingly important?
With the denim mill in Vietnam, the company is better placed to serve its global base of customers due to the recently concluded European Union-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement. This agreement is a new generation FTA between Viet Nam and 28 European Union member states, providing a wide range of opportunities for companies from both sides.
Eliminating 99% of all tariffs
Reducing regulatory barriers and overlapping red tape
Ensuring protection of geographical indications
Opening up services and public procurement markets
Making sure the agreed rules are enforceable
The agreement removes tariffs and other barriers that have hindered trade in the past, making it easier for companies to do business in either region. This agreement also includes improved access for service providers and investors as well as provisions on intellectual property rights, which makes it easier for innovative companies to protect their inventions.
Vietnam is becoming increasingly important due to its strategic geographic location and its rapidly developing economy. With the EU-Vietnam FTA in place, it makes sense for companies to set up production plants there due to cheaper labor costs and access to a wider consumer base. The country has also become an attractive destination for foreign investors due to its low taxes, relaxed regulations.
What key products and collections you would be showcasing to visiting buyers during the Denimsandjeans Vietnam event on March 1-2?
Denimsandjeans Vietnam show is a well-known event for showcasing key products and collections. We are glad to announce that during this event, we will be placing the spotlight on these categories and providing our visitors with a huge variety of options to choose from. In our efforts to promote sustainability and eco-friendly products, we will be displaying eco-friendly collections made exclusively for women alongside other unique vintage products. Furthermore, our “Green Denim” collection will give buyers access to an interesting array of denim consists of Closed loop collection and Ecology Denim. We hope that these collections will capture the attention of visitors and give them an opportunity to select the best among what is on offer.
Authentic
Vintage Friendly Collection
Exclusive Women’s E Collections:
One Size Fit
One Size Fit– 2 nd Skin
Green Denim
Closed Loop Collection
Ecology Denim
More Options
Black Denim
Naturals
Core Items
Vietnam already has stringent laws related to sustainable processes. Has XDD gone further to use technologies which helps to become a preferred partner of the brands?
XDD REUSE TAKES ON COTTON TRAGEABILITY IN DENIM PRODUCTION Although circularity has gained popularity in the denim industry recently, traceability is crucial for identifying and addressing the underlying environmental issues that manufacturing might cause. Cotton is the primary raw material used to create the well-known fabric in the denim industry, and it is the subject of all discussion. When XDD Textile introduced its XDD REUSE tracing system, it sought to address a significant concern in the denim industry: how might traceability be enhanced in the cotton production and recycling processes?
Pre-consumer trash is gathered from the mill’s affiliated clothing manufacturer by XDD Textile, which then regenerates and spins it into cotton that is as good as new. This recycled cotton may be traced because it comes from the cuttable waste from XDD’s own fabric. In this “Cut Waste Reuse” technique, XDD can recycle cotton from the garment manufacturing process using 10 to 15 percent of the cut waste. The recent development of such percentages to 20 percent and beyond illustrate the industry’s appetite for additional recycled cotton, even if several firms have already used 5 percent recycled cotton to continue with sustainable fabric production activities. Recycled cotton provides significant benefits, in that it can prevent additional textile waste and require far fewer resources than conventional or organic cotton.
The waste is often classified into 2 categories:
Pre-consumer waste, which includes scraps created by yarn and fabric byproducts
Post-consumer waste, which also includes garments from previously recycled finished goods.
The raw material for the XDD REUSE collection , which is made from pre-consumer waste, comes from the partner garment factory of DD, which regularly uses fabrics from the manufacturer In addition to using trash to make fresh fabric, XDD REUSE also makes use of the company’s Closed Loop System to further confirm the quality of the denim and make it possible to track the origin of the cotton. The textile mill can collect and regenerate the cotton using XDD’s circular Closed Loop System, which also increases the plant’s capacity to produce 100 tones of recycled cotton each month. As Vietnam bans the import of garbage, the system is driven by the XDD wastewater recycling process to reuse and recycle waste.
XDD Textile itself operates as a vertical enterprise, starting from the purchase of cotton, all the way through the yarn spinning and denim production and recycling processes. The company attributes this vertical model to its ability to offer a traceable cotton supply. XDD has built a recycling process designed to divert more products from landfills, which would help alleviate the estimated 25 billion pounds in annual textile waste produced, according to the Council for Textile Recycling.
The company’s established tracing process for the XDD REUSE collection can be viewed here:
With the above process in place, XDD aims to guarantee and ensure that all denim production at its factories remain of the highest quality. XDD says it is the first mill in Vietnam that has started to use cuttable fabric waste for recycled cotton, which is now certified by Control Union, Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) and Global Recycle Standard (GRS).
Visit our website for Denimsandjeans Vietnam to register to visit the show and check out the collection of XDD !.
For more information , you can contact XDD Team  man@xdddenim.com
The Denimsandjeans Vietnam is set to be held on March 1-2 , 2023. SM Denim Mills from Pakistan will be showcasing their latest collection at the show for the first time. We recently talked with Mr. Junaid Javed, Executive Chairman along with his General Manager Marketing Mr Abbas Rizvi, SM Denim Mills on their company, products, focus and why they feel Vietnam market is important for the industry.
SM denim has a history of over 40 years. Can you share the growth story with us.
SM Group is a distinguished business corporation since its inception in 1976 started as a flannel fabric producer and became one of the biggest Flannel exporter in the early 2000. Expanding our product portfolio the company established a state of the art denim mill with core competency in Denim Fabric manufacturing and its trade, capitalising on innovation, integrity and ingenuity. Denim for us, knows no boundaries and we are determined to export globally by supplying brands and denim apparel manufacturers as per their demand. We offer the best quality denim fabrics coupled with expedited services and competitive terms in order to meet our clients’ requirements. Using our state of the art high tech machineries, plants and human resource and a cumulative volume capacity of over 27 million meters per annum, we offer a diverse variety of fabric production ranging from 2.75oz to 18oz and above in different blends and constructions with high end sustainable products that surpass the market requirements.
What are the latest innovations SM denim is working on.
Our Dedicated R&D department is continuously adding new and innovative denims fabric to the archive with major emphasis on sustainability and compostable denim fabric warped with performance like hyper stretch, Bi Stretch, cool max, dual comfort, super soft touch, antibacterial, storm wear etc. We are proud to be one of the denim mills doing less water and salt free dyeing and reusing finishing chemicals through advance recovery plants.
Vietnam is a specialised market. What are your products which you will be focusing on in the Denimsandjeans Vietnam show.
Aligning with the demands of circular fashion we are focussing on traceability incorporating recycled cotton, Recycled polyester, organic cotton, Hemp, Bamboo, kapok and other sustainable blends % to our fabrics and making it eco friendly coupled with our sustainable Indikon and enigma dyeing process.
Is SM denim preparing for upcoming European laws related to sustainability and traceability of apparel products ?
We are up to date with all required certification/compliance as per the European law below are list of some for your reference. ZDHC gateway Cleanchain Higgs index Oekotex 100 BSCI GOTS GRS RCS OCS STEP (in process) Supplier to Zero. In addition to this we run 100% biological treatment plant from Joseph egli and processing towards zero discharge of water by UF plant in the year 2023-24
What are your expectations from the Vietnam market and why do you think it is important?
Vietnam is strategically a very important Market for both EU and US clients with continuous increase in its exports, Vietnam is anticipating to make $45 billion in exports in 2022 from $40.4 billion in 2021 which increase opportunities for Pakistan and other neighboring countries to expand their business portfolio in Vietnam.
Haelixa is a multi-award winning spinoff of ETH ZURICH founded in 2016. The two founders Michela Puddu and Gediminas Mikutis worked during their PhD at the ETH Zurich on the development of DNA markers for product traceability, the technology that they have then further advanced and commercialized setting up Haelixa. With a sophisticated technology as a base, the Haelixa traceability solution is easy to use and can be applied to the raw material (or intermediate product) to address challenges related to proof of product origin, authenticity and sustainability claims.
Having grown from strength to strength, the company now has a wide global reach helping out brands and companies to physically trace input materials. Haelixa has particularly made its mark in the Denim Industry by helping trace , among other things, the cotton fiber used – a subject of great concern to the large brands .
Soorty Denim from Pakistan is one large denim conglomerate using their technology and providing the physical tracing of recycled cotton fibers that they use in their fabrics to their large base of customers globally. We spoke to Mr. Mansoor Bilal – VP Marketing, Research & Innovation and Holly Berger , Marketing Director , Haelixa AG about their collaboration .
Briefly summarize the partnership between Haelixa and Soorty.
Haelixa and Soorty began their partnership in 2019, over a need to have a reliable means of tracing the denim Soorty is recycling. Haelixa provides a liquid solution containing specific DNA for Soorty to spray on post-consumer waste. Once the post-consumer waste is mechanically recycled into fibers and further processed into a finished garment, samples are sent to Haelixa labs to be tested for the DNA. Once verified, Soorty can responsibly stand by their recycling claim.
What advantages do marking and tracing recycled denim have for customers? Why is this important?
HB : Denim manufacturers and producers are being pushed to increase the percentage of recycled products. As denim brands are setting more aggressive sustainability goals, this means the demand for recycled fibers increases. In order to substantiate recycling claims, Haelixa offers forensic proof as to whether marked recycled fibers are used.
MB : With an increase in demand for circularity in textiles, many brands are focusing on the transparency and traceability of the fibers and their sourcing background. The major advantage for the customers is having confidence and total reliability in the product because it’s been sourced from a credible and authentic supplier who understands circularity and its dynamics.
This also provides them with the satisfaction of being conscious consumers since traceability offers supply chain transparency that makes you feel like a partner in environmental support and that you are giving back to nature
What has been the overall response of marking recycled denim?
HB : The response has been positive. Traceability is not only a trend but an important standard that is being adopted by the textile industry. Haelixa offers credible testing (through PCR) to verify DNA in the fibers marked. Soorty offers brands the option of labelling their products with a tag, “Marked and Traced by Haelixa.†All fact-based information on sustainability efforts are important for the industry and consumers.
MB : Many brands are realizing the effects of ongoing climate changes and the consequences of growing landfills. Over the past few years, many of our buyers have been asking us to add PCW (recycled cotton) into our fabrics. But since the last 2 to 3 years, the demand has been getting higher and higher with every passing day. Now most of the brands we are working for demand a mandatory percentage of PCW blend in their collections.
How does the process work and what are the steps involved in execution
HB: Haelixa ships the liquid formulation to Soorty, where it is applied in a standard production step by spraying. Denim garments are then produced as usual. What we have also done with one of Soorty’s clients, is to prepare a unique DNA to identify their collection. Haelixa then verifies marked garments and issue test certificates.
MB : After sorting and shredding our PCW denim fibers, we apply DNA markers to the fibers, which are then mixed with virgin cotton in the desired percentage requested by the buyers to make the yarn.
What is the most common reason brands want to mark recycled denim?
HB: Marking fibers is important to maintain the credibility of the product in the supply chain. In a world of greenwashing and misinformation, brands are looking for fact-based evidence to back the claims about the fibers used in their textiles.
What does the consumer gain from purchasing marked and traced recycled denim? How has the DNA solution evolved since working with recycled denim?
HB: Haelixa marking fibers initially was used mostly as a tool for supply chain players to verify their claims of traced textiles. Since the product was first launched, Haelixa now offers customer-facing communication. This includes the optional hang tag, stating “Marked and Traced by Haelixa†or a QR code printed within the finished garment which directs the consumer to a website sharing supply chain data.
With respect to this partnership, what is possible for the future? Are you planning on scaling the recycled cotton traceability? What will you mark besides recycled?
HB : The range of textiles that Haelixa can reliably trace is vast, beyond denim. The traceability solutions portfolio includes organic cotton, recycled cotton, hemp, nettle, and synthetic fibers. With Soorty, the next scale will be in recycled and organic cotton.
MB : Soorty has always kept a sharp focus on its customers’ expectations while ensuring a sustainable impact on our Earth. We do it through research, innovation, and continuous improvement of infrastructure. Recently, we have doubled our recycling capabilities, keeping in mind the flow of demand for recycled denim. And we are thinking of coming up with something interesting like traceable organic cotton under SOCI, Soorty’s Organic Cotton Initiative.
Why is marking organic cotton important? Which advantage will it give you?
HB : The feedback has been very strong after collaborations with brands in marking organic cotton. It adds credibility as traceability is the only way to ensure that a product is indeed made of the specific lot of organic cotton that is stated on the transaction certificate or other documentation. The fact that Haelixa markers are approved as chemical inputs by GOTS is a major advantage here and allows us to ensure that safety and GOTS requirements are maintained.
MB : It seems like the new business approach will be based on the transparency of the full supply chain and not limited to one part.
What is the risk of not using a traceability solution?
HB: There are two major risks of not having a traceable solution in place : 1. Future: With regulations and communication mediums changing faster than the seasons, businesses need to keep up with the trends. Without a solution in place, their efforts to create consistent products that meet standards will fall short. 2. Transparency: To keep stakeholders informed about the fibers used, traceability is necessary to state the facts about the production processes in the supply chain.
MB : It is unavoidable in today’s world to provide a tangible with no traceability. To be in the league of dependable supply chains, a significant number of businesses would have to rely on an authentic and consistent traceability partner sooner or later.
Mr. Mansoor Bilal - VP Marketing, Research & Innovation says :
Going forward, companies will be judged on their overall footprint of traceability and reliability. As a first step, we have onboarded Haelixa for the beginning of process control to encourage track and trace. And we see great potential to further push the initiative in our cotton fields under the flagship project of SOCI to create a circular benchmark.
Mr. Abdelkader Amouche – Global Sales Director , Haelixa says :
Greater transparency is a must. Business owners now know that their companies will be asked about their sustainability goals and efforts. Our work in cases, like Soorty, demonstrates that transparency is possible.
For more information , please contact Holly Berger , Marketing Director , Haelixa AG @ h.berger@haelixa.com
With covid putting in a long gap for all exhibitions, Denimsandjeans restarted its exhibition jounery with the show in Bangalore, India in June 2022 . It was a great comeback with a wonderful response from exhibitors and visitors both. But the biggest challenge was holding the 1st edition of Denimsandjeans Japan. This show, which was originally planned for March 2020 , kept on getting postponed with covid and we finally were able to hold the same last month. And now we come to our next stop – VIETNAM on March 1-2 at HCM . Also our India show will happen on April 26-27 at Bangalore. The Denimsandjeans Vietnam was last held in 2019 and the pandemic ensured that we could not restart it till 2023 . So in a way its really exciting to be back in Vietnam after such a long gap ! We , and all our stakeholders , are quite excited about the show hoping to see great participation in the show. So , it would be great to mark the dates for the show in your calendar and be to this wonderful country which is doing much better than many others currently.
We also take opportunity to share some insights into our Denimsandjeans Japan show . With around 40 exhibitors from different countries and 10 local exhibitors participating in the show this year , the 2 day event attracted around 800 visitors from over 250 companies of Japan. Major brands, retailers, buying house , traders and manufacturers participated from across Japan . Some of the important ones include Caitac, Itochu Corporation , Uniqlo, Muji , Edwin , Yagi , Lachman Exporters, Kurabo , Vinatge Denim , SCI , Monura Trading , KOWA , Crystal Yi Da, Toyota Tususho , TDesign , Baroque, Synergy Co Ltd, Noura Trading , Sumitex International , Takenouchi Industrial Textile Corp, Marubeni Corporation, Retroactive Inc., Mark Styler, Mac- house, Valta Design , Rich Diamonds, Denham , Righton , Joix Corporation , CODE7 , etc visited the show.
Display Walls
There were a series of very innovative denim walls in the show. The famous brands Samurai and D’Artisan’s collection were displayed alongwith a unique concept by YEN jeans. There was a wall display by Dr. Denim as well as Officina+69 with a very fascinating collection and denim artwork respectively. Jeanologia also displayed some latest products and technology on denim wall during the show.
Trend Area
The theme of the trend area RAW & RIGHT rightfully displayed 5 categories as ENVIRONMENTALLY RIGHT – Less Water/ Chemicals , Designed Innovation , Good Material ; JAPANESE STYLE ; RECYCLED ; SELVEDGES with special products from all the exhibitors falling in them.
Do not miss to join
Join the Denimsandjeans Vietnam Show on March 1-2, 2023 at Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam and our India show on April 26-27 at Bangalore.
During our Denimsandjeans Japan event on 1-2nd Nov, our team visited the famous Kapital – one of the most famous boutique denim brands from Japan . A small family-run company named Kapital is producing highly valued clothing that redefines what it means to wear denim in the Japanese countryside. Kapital has constantly emphasized the exclusive use of hand processes since its establishment in 1984, developing and producing all procedures manually , including thread dying, material fabrication, stitching, washes, and embellishment. Their unusual designs, expert craftsmanship, and meticulous manual finishing are well known across the world.
Store Design
The way that the leftover denim is displayed on the wall is unique but appealing. The doors and racks are constructed from discarded, unwanted pieces of wood that have been arranged to look as though they have always been there. Their vibrant, fun, and stylish inventory mesmerized us and just spruced up our everyday shopping for clothes.
Reconstructed denim served as inspiration for the store’s design. A traditional Japanese residence decorated for a tea ceremony served as the location of one of the Kapital stores in Ebisu. In particular we visited the KAPITAL LEGS – the store dedicated to everything in denim. Each of their stores has a distinctive personality. Some require you to take off your shoes before you enter. Others are crammed together like an American vintage shop with strange artifacts from the Kapital archive heaped high and Ebisu store was one of them. It’s utterly original, unlike anything else, but curiously familiar.
The brand faced a huge transformation when Kiro, Toshikiyo’s son, chose to leave Kojima to pursue his education in America in 1996. Kapital underwent a significant transition and was influenced by the Americana movement in 1996. The EAST MEETS WEST fusion concept, a blending of Japanese and Western designs, is introduced by this artistic Japanese brand called Kapital.
Natural dyes and traditional Japanese Sashiko, Boro stitching and repairs are hallmarks of this exquisite brand. KAPITAL’s areas of expertise are processing and stitching , and very few businesses worldwide are able to do both tasks. The stitching technique -Sashiko – has been used for more than 400 years. Tradition dictates that lines and designs are created with a running stitch and white cotton thread. Typically, indigo blue traditional cloth would be used for this.
KAPITAL began by making jeans, but they now produce a wide range of products, primarily apparel made of denim. With a few exceptions, all KAPITAL products are produced at the company’s factories, including shoes, and accessories. Whether you’re looking for everyday clothing or festival attire for the summer, you can find it there. And the prices are not sky high when you consider the Japanese yen today !
We highly recommend visiting Kapital store when in Tokyo . Kapital Legs : 2 Chome-23-12 Ebisuminami · +81 3-5773-8305
Kassim is one of the most well known Pakistan denim company and respected globally for its innovative developments. The company brought out denims in 1991 and since then it has been a great growth journey for the group – going from places to places . We spoke to the Marketing Director Mr Imtiaz Ishaq regarding their philosophy , journey , developments and more.
Kassim is one of the most innovative denim companies. What drives the company?
Our philosophy is to make denim using a simple age old concept of treating others as you wish to be treated. Keeping things minimal, our ethical principles are interwoven into our denim. We aim
to care for all the artisans involved in making our denims & to produce the most luxurious and best fitting jeans, while protecting the earth and loving its people & try to get close to green world every day.
With the changing regulations in different countries, bringing sustainable products to the market becomes a priority for brands. How are you helping the brands for the same.?
We believe sustainability should not be limited to some products, infact it’s our foremost responsibility to make every product sustainable. And, to do so, we need to adopt sustainability as a habit, as a mission, as a part of every step which we take towards introducing the new innovations & this is the only way forward
Firstly we have equipped our facility with all the machines, chemical fibers and other raw material for sustainable production for the brands & secondly we made sure flexibility of our production lines and supply chain to cater the needs of different brands.
Denim is increasingly becoming a performance fabric. What do you think about the same thing?
Denim is becoming more dynamic as consumer needs change and Millennials, Gen Z Swing Fashion Industry As millennial became a bigger consumer force, demand for Gen Z clothing is inevitable ….accordingly we have introduced our “Ethleisure Seriesâ€, simply a multifunction denim that can use as formal wear & at the same time give you athletic freedom & weather friendly properties. What are the 3 key developments by Kassim in the current year . Do you believe these are seasonal or long term?
We’re always believe in long term developments but at the same time following the market requirement and trends.
We are striving to cover most of our production capacity with other than Virgin cotton that will include recycle or organic, Zero Cotton Denim, Biodegradable denim & so on.
As we know the world is quickly changing and challenging the denim industry to quickly adapt to it, we have recently join hands with Invista and developed series of articles by using Lycra-Adaptive so Denim consumer can have unparalleled wearing experience with best fits that will provide shaping and compression, a second skin effect.
We believe that Every Fade Has A Story. By partnering with Cleankore and Archroma, Kassim now has a new vintage looking black garment that is not only fully sustainable but also effective in saving water, chemicals, energy and production time. According to Archroma’s in-house impact calculator One Way, this new solution eliminates the need for potassium permanganate spray, thus avoiding the yellow cast that the chemicals can give on black denims. Products can also be laser-finished, and thus achieve low EIM scores, using Jeanologia’s rating system
Pakistan has been a very important player in the global denim market. Do you foresee its influence increasing in the coming year?
Yes, absolutely! Pakistani industries have been playing a vital role in global denim market & the reason for our success is capacity and capability. We are equipped with all necessary tools like latest machines and raw material and have enough capacity to cater the requirement of market. Although, market is currently unstable due to political tensions & recession in world but we are hoping that once the world will be back on track again, Pakistani industries will grow further & show their importance on the world map.
Your growth plans for 2023 ?
Agility of the supply chain remains one of the key driving force in our continuous expansion so in order to become fully captive in yarn, we have established a state of the art spinning unit which will ensure the supply of premium and value added yarns in least possible time & we also have further expansion plans of our spinning unit for 2023.
Further as a part of our energy & emission management strategy, we have installed state of the art solar energy system at our facility to eliminate fuel dependency. It is currently generating 3.2 megawatt of green energy & our aim is to increase it further in future until our whole manufacturing facility switches on solar power which will help us to significantly reduce the carbon footprint.
Another project of water recycling is in line and expected to complete by 2023 and after its completion we will able to make 50% of our waste water reusable.
Artistic Milliners is one of the most well known and respected global denim conglomerate having operations that spread multiple countries and huge investments in sustainability projects. Omer Ahmed is the CEO of Artistic Milliners (AM)- the fully vertically integrated denim organization with headquarters in Karachi, Pakistan. He is also the co-founder of Star Fades International, a fully operational denim laundry and design center located in Los Angeles, California. As Artistic Milliners participates in our Denimsandjeans Japan Show, we interacted with him to understand about the latest directions that AM is following in their quest to be more even more productive, efficient and sustainable.
Artistic Milliners is one of the fastest growing global denim groups with a big international presence. Can you share about recent growth ventures?
I think it would be fair to say that we are in the next chapter of our evolution as a company, improving what we do best while broadening our horizons. We’ve expanded our portfolio beyond denim with Artmill, adding premium wovens into the mix. Our garment capacity is expanding with our newest LEED Platinum certified unit and Circular Park is a green energy supported fiber recycling plant at the vanguard of circular tech, using our own textile waste as well as post-consumer textile waste. We’re also further expanding our global footprint with SFI Mexico, an organic extension of our smart supply chain offering in North America.
2) Sustainability has become the core of your activities and we see a number of initiatives in this regard specially related to water and energy. Can you enumerate some of them?
That’s very well put because sustainability, and more broadly speaking equity, is at the core of who we are. In fact our values are authenticity, inclusivity, force for good and climate positivity. And clean energy is a big part of that vision, and given recent events in Pakistan, it’s an increasingly urgent mission.
On a manufacturing innovation front we have our recent wash advances – Clear Fade, and Clear Vintage– consumes 75% less water compared to conventional methods also use ecologically friendly chemicals. Our latest dyeing products Purecolor and Bioverse dyes, incorporate natural dyes into our offerings. All colors dyed by the Natural Dyes are certified by GOTS and meet ZDHC MRSL requirements. At our mills we are taking a holistic approach to sustainability and a 360-degree approach to Circularity, be it our investment in Circular Park or our partnership with regenerative recycling partners. Thanks to meaningful water recycling quantities our fresh water consumption has come down by 60%.
Besides that our resource saving innovations like Crystal Clear 3.0 and Icebreaker replaces conventional rope dyeing technique with more modern, far cleaner eco approaches like finishing fabrics with ozone This delivers value to our customers with better color casts and more laser friendly fabrics. This is what helped us achieve Cradle to Cradle Gold certification and Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
Another vital piece of our green mission is our ability to produce our own clean energy. Our 100 MW wind farms+ 2.7 MW solar farms don’t just help power our operations, they’re helping our national power grid move away from fossil fuels, which is an increasingly vital mission given the growing climate crisis that Pakistan is at the forefront of. We’re also expanding solar with a new 8.5 MW project in collaboration with Reon energy. We’ve also got over $370 million invested in hydroelectricity for this precise reason.
3) What do you think of the Japanese market and what major collections would you like to present there at Denimsandjeans Japan.
Japan is a mecca for denim, particularly when it comes to authentic denim. While Japan’s denim market seems to be growing at a steady clip every year, what I find most impressive is the dedication to the craft of denim and respect for artisanship that runs through the industry. It is largely unexplored by our market however so we are hoping to change it. What is encouraging to see is this growing passion for responsible manufacturing that takes traditional and highly developed techniques in dyeing, weaving and washing and marry them with a more ecologically aware ethos. It’s a model we’ve become very familiar with as its one that has guided our own journey over the past decade. Our collections for the Tokyo show will focus on Spring Summer 24, staying authentic and never ever sacrificing comfort or style. You’ll just have to see for yourself on the show floor!
4) With SFI being a very successful model for Manufacturing 4.0, do you think that we can see more of such manufacturing plants from AM ?
Not just think but we’ve already expanded in the same vein. For us, California was the right place to lay the cornerstone of our US manufacturing operations and it was also symbolic, given its significance in the story of denim. SFI served as a major leap in Artistic Milliners’ evolution as a truly global denim company as it adds multiple dimensions to our operating model. SFI also serves as a hub for co-creation and collaboration on every aspect from fiber to garment, and SFI Mexico is the natural next chapter and gives us greater depth and manufacturing muscle, compounding economies of scale and sustainability as fast as our US partners like.
The other jewel in our circular manufacturing crown, Circular Park is finally online, outputting up to half a million kg of recycled fiber from pre and post-consumer sources using clean energy. Circular Park is set to become the hub of fiber recycling efforts company wide. We’ve also expanded our garments capacity by 600,000 garments, bringing our newest energy efficient facility online.
5) Would you like to share with us the growth plans for the near future.
Our investment map as outlined above ties in precisely with our 10-year plan: Enhancing capacity in an intelligent way which allows us to scale up production optimally while limiting our environmental and resource impact.  But growing ourselves as the clean energy powered conglomerate of the future which means being adaptable: The bamboo that bends is stronger than the oak that resists, and as I said, for us ecology and equity are two sides of the same coin for us. So it’s an important part of our sustainability strategy to help our employees and therefore the company grow, particularly in regard to women, who make up 50% of our top management. No company can claim to be sustainable  and not be right to its employees. This just doesn’t fit in our vision. Our FairTrade Certified factories now cover 5,000 mostly women workers. We’re still the first in Pakistan’s textile sector to be certified, and to date have disbursed a  million USD through the programme. Similarly, we’re very proud partners of the BSR HERessentials programme which we’re very passionate about, which encourages peer to peer learning on health, finances ,resilience, and tools for building harmonious relationships and handling stress. We are also the first and only denim company in Pakistan to run Gap Inc.’s Women Empowerment program called P.A.C.E. (Personal Advancement and Career Enhancement). Our  growth means their growth, today and in the future.
Nexia & De Franceschi is an Italian company, leader in the production of innovative machineries and systems for industrial and textile laundries. From the heritage of the De Franceschi brand, born in 1871, Nexia has developed experience and know-how in the finishing process within the textile sector, with particular focus on the denim industry. Technologically advanced products, that are aligned to Industry 4.0 standards, have been created to drastically reduce the consumption of water, chemicals and energy. We spoke to their team about their latest work and developments as they participate in Denimsandjeans Japan show.
Nexia has developed as an important company for sustainable laundry. Can you share your brief history?
NEXIA SRL is a leader in Italy in the production of washing and dyeing machines for industrial laundries, in the finishing textile process with particular focus on the DENIM industry. Our ALL-TOGETHER system for instance, a combination of option on the same machine for a fluid and dynamic uninterrupted washing cycle, guaranteeing remarkable performance with the highest quality results.
Nexia in 2016 also acquired the DE FRANCESCHI historical brand of washing machines, for the linen industry.The company has developed exclusive patented technologies, 100% made in Italy, that can significantly reduce environmental impact, processing times and energy consumption.
The objectives have been incredibly successful: water consumption reduced by up to 85%, use of chemicals reduced by up to 87% and energy consumption reduced by up to 40%.
Nexia is always on the frontline of fashion and technological research and the machineries are certified in total compliance with environmental policies of the Green Label by RINA, an external international certification control agency.
How are you trying to align your company orientation with the Sustainable Development Goals of the UN ? All our products are aligned to Industry 4.0 standards, we constantly invest 15% of our profit in Research and development every year in new technologies. In January 2020 Nexia won the award as best manufacturer company in our area and received the prize from the mayor of the city of Rosà . In October 2021, another important award the “PID 2021†a special Italian prize with the mention for the sustainability: “Green Laundry and dyeing for Textileâ€.
Last but not the least, in OCTOBER 2022 we will collect another important prize, by the president of the VENETO REGION and the PRESIDENT OF THE ROTARY CLUB, the CARNAROLI regional award, with the assignment of the honorable mention “ENERGY AND ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY”.
The goals we reached, reaffirm the dedication of our historical brands through a responsible production, with ever higher performing washer-extractors and applications from a target ZERO perspective.
Ozone technology has been very useful in providing environmentally friendly washing to the industry . How have you ensured advancements in this technology?
NEXIA being a sustainable company, has the awareness that it does not only mean respect for the environment and for the resources, but also respect for the health of workers and consumers.
For this reason, our OZONE technology is CE Certified, and we are carrying out an important project with the National Research Institute ( CNR), aim to proof the application of this natural gas in the textile industry.
What do you think of the Japanese denim market? Why do you think that your technology could be very useful in the market?
High-tech, tradition and the obligatory pinch of nationalism, are the three most important characteristics to consider about sustainability in textiles, in Japan.
NEXIA constantly update issues related to the environment and savings, although what has been achieved at the technological level is very ground-breaking like our NEXSTONE patented stoneless washing system and our DOUBLE NEBULIZER NDROP system ( unique in the world).
Our machines have been also conceived with an advanced software able to manage and check all the recipes of the treatments, enhancing the bath ratio, the washing cycles and most important, all the savings.
Our aim is to promote our integration among Japanese companies in machinery and resources, able to help improving their precious denim market.
Any future plans you want to share with us on your new technological developments .
In addition to the projects, we are already carrying out, NEXIA be present at the next most important international show for the textile industry, ITMA Milan 2023, with a new product and with great news. You just have to follow us !
For more information on Nexia products, contact them at   info@nexiaitaly.com    office email Â
When it comes to denim, Japan is the country which is held in awe by the denim community. Japanese denim artisans have elevated the craft to a new level, inspiring international buyers and designers who frequently travel to Japan for education , inspiration and sourcing . Large corporations and retailers with enormous purchasing power for denim clothing and fabrics for their overseas offices can also be found in Japan. Did you know Japan imports more than 150 million pieces of denim jeans annually? After the EU and the US, it is the third-largest importer of these goods.
So a very exciting time for denim connoisseurs to be in Japan and especially after a break of 2 years! And a very positive time to be in Japan as the country opens up and is now open to international visitors. Make sure to go through through all the grounds on why you must not miss the Denimsandjeans Japan Show on November 1-2.
1.First Denim Supply Chain- Denimsandjeans | Nov 1-2
The first denim supply chain show in Japan which brings over 10 Japanese companies and about 40 other global denim , non-denim , knit etc. companies on Nov 1-2 , 2022. The Denimsandjeans show , which initially scheduled in 2020 was postponed due to Covid 19 and had been rescheduled. We now eagerly look forward to getting the Japanese and Overseas denim community together at the show !
2.WALLS BY JAPANESE DENIM BRANDS
There are some very cool denim brands in Japan and we are happy to bring displays by some of these at our show.
Studio D’Artisan
STUDIO D’ARTISAN & SA established in 1979 by a designer who learned it in France. It was very successful to reproduce and to take over the history of “real Jeans†made by old looms found in Okayama . This is like a symbol of opportunity that Japanese denim became famous in the world in 1990’s when vintage replica boom begin with new value of “Vintage†“Selvedgeâ€. SDA brings some exclusive products in a wall at our show !
Samurai Jeans
Samurai Jeans was established in Osaka in 1998 based on the concept that jeans ultimately have no value unless the creator and wearer are united in their commitment. In recent years, they have been tackling the enormous challenge of reviving and growing an ancient strain of cotton in Sasayama city, Hyogo prefecture, with the aim of producing high-quality clothing that is “100% Made in Japan†from seed to fabric to finished garment. With the generous help of the local community, this dream is becoming a reality, and since 2020 they have been releasing denim and cut-and-sew items that contain a percentage of our own hand-harvested, local organic cotton .
Yen Jeans
YEN is a denim brand by Michiko Koshino. Born in 1943, she is a fashion designer and has high-end stores in Japan and a restaurant in London. Michiko Koshino was born in Osaka, Japan to Ayako Koshino and has some cool vision for her brand YEN JEANS and you will find a great display by her on the show.
Dr Denim
Dr Yuji Honzawa is a denim connoisseur who has created a number of Japanese denim brands and was also responsible for setting up the denim business of Uniqlo. He brings some cool garments from his collection at our show.
3.JEANOLOGIA WALL & DENIM ART WALL
Jeanologia brings their Tech Artisan wall showcasing how the industry can move towards the “Mission Zero” . Denim Art Wall by Juan Manuel Gomez from Officina showing special denim paintings using chemicals .There is a constant act of repetition as automatic drawing or pictorial act in the processes of the textile industry; taking this as a visual referent, his artworks are produced as if it were cloth or a garment.
4.EXCLUSIVE TREND AREA
Exclusive Trend Area showcasing global garments with latest Eco friendly and other technologies and styles. The trend wall will have some latest products under the categories –
a) Environmentally Right: Under various sub categories defining different elements of sustainability.
b) Designed Innovation: Showcase of products which have incorporated innovative technologies, materials and procedures to manufacture.
c) Selvedges : When in Japan – don’t forget selvedges . We bring out some of the best ones in this category.
d) Japanese Style Collections representing Japanese Culture, Fashion and Style
5.JAPAN DENIM DAYS: Oct 29-30
JAPAN DENIM DAYS (JDD) is an event sponsored by the local city authorities to promote denim manufacturing at Okayama prefecture. We have tied up with the JDD so that the visit of few selected visitors ( from brands ) from Tokyo to Kojima (including 1 night stay) would be sponsored by the JDD . Those interested may immediately contact us . More details are given here .
6.DENIM BIZ MEETING IN FUKUYAMA CASTLE NOV 5
Fukuyama is another area with a great denim concentration and they are celebrating the 400th year of their city council (a beautiful old castle) where they will bring some of the companies in this region . More details are given here.
7.INTERACTIVE SEMINARS
Seminars by renowned Japanese denim experts and also international presenters . The presenters’ names and the subjects on which they will be expressing their opinions are listed below.
Stefano Aldighieri (President Another Studio) – “A Blue Journey from the past to the future through US , Europe and Japan”
Moto Suzuki (CEO Hap co, ltd Japan, Coveross Oy Finland) – “Next generation sustainable and personalized denim technology”
Juan Manuel Gomez (Officina Creative Leader) – ” Art & Denim As A Process Of Repetition “
Akhiko Kashino (Jeanologia) – “Simplify The Excellence”
8.DENIM SHOPPING
A great time to go for shopping with YEN at historic low. Probably you will get your favourite denim pair at amazing conversion rates ! Own the Japanese jeans which you found too expensive to wear before .
Visit our website to see what other exhibitors will be bringing to the Japan show.
Also to view the complete exhibitors list , pl check this link. We are looking forward to see you all at our inaugural Denimsandjeans event on November 1-2 in Sunshine City, Tokyo.
