Author: Sandeep Agarwal

  • Levi’s Own Data Scientists : Lessons & Insights

    Levi’s Own Data Scientists : Lessons & Insights

    Earlier this year, Levi’s introduced its first-ever Machine Learning (ML) Bootcamp, which drew industry-wide acclaim and piqued the curiosity of a large number of employees. With an inflow of new ideas and practitioners, data science, machine learning, and artificial intelligence (AI) solutions have spread all across the company, speeding how things can be done better, quicker, and more efficiently. Data Science serves a variety of purposes, from controlling the brand’s supply chain to providing analytical real-time data to its retail outlets.

    Bootcamp

    Its second batch of 58 workers completed the eight-week intensive course recently, where they learned coding, Python programming language, statistics, and other skills. It had around 450 workers apply for limited slots in the first year of the course, and they taught more than 100 employees from more than 20 locations across North America, Europe, and the Asia Pacific.

    Rather than educating new tech hires to speak fashion, brands like Levi’s are teaching the current workforce to speak tech. Levi’s launched the program in May as part of ongoing attempts to expedite digitalization and move to a direct-to-consumer approach. After cutting off 700 corporate staff as part of the 2020 store closures, Levi’s is now building a number of new tech-centric stores.

    Ronald Pritipaul who has served as denim head for Levi’s now has a new role of associate data project manager for computer vision. Surprisingly, Ronald has no background in computer science. He does, however, have an engrained dedication to Levi’s and a comprehensive understanding of the day-to-day difficulties that must be solved. He is one of 40 recent graduates of Levi’s first machine learning “bootcamp”. It was during his time in bootcamp that Ron started to question how he’d actually implement these new skillsets.

     â€œThe fashion industry has largely accepted the need for digitization, but recruitment of the necessary tech talent is a challenge. And once new hires adjust to working in fashion, they’re often poached by others. We used to call this the endless cycle of frustration,” says Katia Walsh, Levi’s SVP and chief strategy and AI officer, who is leading the project.

    ADAPTING TO THE NEW CHANGE

    Levis

    Walsh comes from the worlds of telecoms (Vodafone) and finance (Prudential Financial). While machine learning intensives are new to the fashion industry, Walsh notes out that they are hardly new to Amazon and Google. She believes herself to be an “unusual fashion executive.” She feels that her entire career has been about using technology to get a competitive edge, yet this industry is still very analogue, highly manual, and fueled by creativity and intuition.  As a result, the company is aiming to transform the analogue into the digital, the manual into the automated, and the imprecise into the precision.

    Levis

    The program has already proven well. Several workers have created technology tools to automate specific parts of their work, and at least five companies have approached Levi’s to share insights, something that Levi’s is doing.

    “We have a great brand as a physical manufacturer of physical goods. But at some point, I also see a future for us as a manufacturer of digital products,” said Walsh.

    BUILDING THE RIGHT WORKFORCE

    Levi’s has made the programme eligible to any internal applicant. The purpose is to broaden and diversify the pool of people with technical expertise, as well as to identify problems that tech teams may have overlooked.

    Employees must apply in order to get recruited. In addition to a “no-code challenge” that assesses analytical skills, problem-solving, curiosity, tenacity, and resilience, they are required to describe how they would utilise data science in their professions. Entrants have arrived from 20 different locations, including Levi’s corporate offices, retail stores, distribution centres, and data centres. Some of them do not have a college degree.

    The bootcamp has been designed as an eight-week virtual course in which employees are paid their regular salaries while engaging in 10-hour days of lectures, team exercises, individual work, homework, and office hours. The second cohort of 60 individuals is now in session, which means that by the end of the year, 100 people will have finished the programme. So far, 450 people have applied, vastly outnumbering the company’s expectations. Walsh discovered that shifting the culture toward digitization and automation did not simply foster new talents in current personnel. It also helps the business retain outside hires, breaking the old “cycle of frustration.”

    HOW AI INFLUENCES DESIGN AT LEVI’S

    bootcamp

    Ronald claimed to use available technologies to improve an existing algorithm and use a neural network created particularly for garments. This algorithm might, for example, define the edges of a garment, detect button placements, and determine pockets, among other things, and then store that image in a single layer for designing.

    Ronald decided to create a new Levi’s Trucker jacket to put his algorithm to the test. He drew inspiration from his love of art history. Among the many references were Van Gogh’s Starry Night, David Hockney’s Apple Tree, and Jasper Johns’ Corpse and Mirror II. The program was able to describe different aspects of the art pieces such as brush strokes, colour, and edges. By using the same algorithm, and with the click of a button, the software could recreate thousands of unique alternative designs instantly.

    Whilst, Ronald has also built a new app that automatically matches threads to fabrics using a specified Pantone palette and solved a major problem point of his fellow designers. These innovations are all the more astounding given that Ronald only completed the bootcamp a few months ago.

     It’s a wonderful illustration of how technology can help and influence workloads beyond the routine data and AI space, forming new dynamics.

  • H&M Release Innovation Circular Design Story Collection

    H&M Release Innovation Circular Design Story Collection

    The Circular design story collection that features a blend of sustainability and style, is the latest addition to H&M’s Innovation stories. The collection addresses circular production as an approach to achieving sustainability. It is the fourth and most recent addition to H&M’s Innovation Stories—”Circular Design Story,” which will be launched on December 9 and will dwell on more circular design techniques and fabrics. It is themed on the ideas of sustainability and joy.

    H&M

    The collection showcases H&M’s commitment to a more circular production process by utilizing a multitude of cutting-edge recycled and recyclable materials, along with paying close attention to adaptation and usability. The Swedish fashion giant has also partnered up with Normani, Gigi Hadid, and Kaia Gerber to celebrate the thrill and anticipation of party-prep and dressing up.

    A CLOSER LOOK AT THE CUTTING-EDGE MATERIALS

    The range, which employs circular design concepts and sustainable materials, was produced by the H&M design team in collaboration with stylist Ib Kamara, who served as a creative advisor. The H&M team evaluates the steps of the garment development process, looking at estimated lifespan, materials, and design approach, using a design tool called the Circulator. The tool enables the team in developing more sustainable and circular elements and to reach their goal of becoming climate positive by 2040. H&M plans to use the technology to develop all of its pieces by 2025.

    Repreve Our Oceans, a fiber generated from bottles gathered on shorelines and coasts, is one of the sustainable materials employed in the collection. The assortment will also include Resorts, a dissolvable sewing thread, and Vega, a vegan substance formed from grape skins, stems, and seeds wasted during the winemaking process. Ambercycle’s Cycora, which is created from old clothing and end-of-life textile waste, will also be used.

    Collection

    The collection is for folks who want to explore and express themselves, and the campaign, which was publicly released earlier this month, reflects this exuberant spirit. It was shot by Rafael Pavarotti, a pioneering photographer, and is titled “Just before the party starts.” The theme reflects the joy of getting ready, as well as the optimism and individualism of people who love fashion, glamming up, choosing new outfits, posing in front of the mirror, dancing, and being free. Kamara and Pavarotti were both actively urged to bring their vibrant, colorful visions to existence.

    “I was proud to work with H&M on a collection that is so committed to circularity and positive change, while also embracing style, bold color, great fit. It’s a really multifaceted, rich collection, and it captures a special feeling for me; the excitement and anticipation of getting ready, of choosing a look and making oneself into a star.” Said Ib Kamara, Stylist, and Creative Advisor H&M.

    WHAT THE COLLECTION HOLDS

    H&M

    Most of the pieces are versatile, enabling them to create a variety of looks. Blazers may be worn as dresses, straps can be used to vary the fit of shirts or jackets, adjustable zips can make trousers wider, and a ball gown can be detached into a top and skirt. The collection’s longevity is maintained by a unique twist on these classic design elements. Polka dots, bows, frills, tailoring, and jacquard are all featured. Normani, Gigi Hadid, and Kaia Gerber, among others, have collaborated with the brand on the campaign, with sneak peeks of the collection being posted on Instagram. From a pink strappy sequin dress made of recycled polyester to a fitted ensemble composed of discarded materials, each piece in the collection has gained its own distinct aesthetic.

    H&M

    According to Ella Soccorsi, concept designer at H&M, fashion can alter, excite, and empower people. She asserts that the collection is a tribute to that idea, as well as to the specific exhilaration that comes with getting ready to go out, just before the party, styling oneself, preparing to head into the night with friends, full of joy and energy.

    The collection is deliberately designed to be cherished, shared, repaired, and recycled. It acknowledges a bold revolutionary outlook and self-expression. The brand marks fashion’s fun and eccentric essence while driving the industry forward to a more circular future.

    “People get a picture in their head when you talk about circularity. With a Circular design story, we wanted, to show it is possible to do a bright, fashion-focused collection that is designed with circularity in mind. We wanted to show new possibilities, and offer something hopeful.” said Ann-Sofie Johansson, Creative Advisor at H&M.

    ABOUT H&M INNOVATIVE STORIES

    H&M

    H&M Innovation Stories, which launched in early 2021, is driven to foster ecologically viable resources, technology, and production techniques. Previous stories have covered the Science Story, which focused on sustainable products, the Color Story, which campaigned for environmentally conscious color techniques, and the Co-exist Story, which approached animal-friendly fashion.

  • Denim News Snippets – Week 46

    Denim News Snippets – Week 46

    Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 46

    ABERCROMBIE & FRITCH’S DOMESTIC SALES FULED REVENUE GROWTH IN Q3

    ABERCROMBIE & FRITCH

    Abercrombie & Fitch Co. announced third-quarter net sales of $905.2 million on Tuesday, up 10% from $819.7 million the year before, boosted by a 17 percent rise in the United States, the company’s largest market. The company’s net sales in the United States for the third quarter ended October 30, 2021, were $654.9 million, up from $557.8 million the previous year. Abercrombie & Fitch Co.’s overall Q3 net sales grew 5% compared to the pre-Covid-19 third quarter of 2019 when revenues were $863.5 million. Digital sales for the quarter were $413 million, up 8% year over year and 55% when compared to the same time two years ago. The company’s quarterly net income was $47.2 million, or $0.77 per diluted share, compared to $42.3 million, or $0.66 per diluted share, in the third quarter of 2020. Abercrombie & Fitch generated net profits of $197.5 million, or $3.10 per diluted share, for the first half of the year, compared to a loss of $196.4 million, or $3.14 per diluted share, for the same period the previous year. Net sales for the nine-month were $2.55 billion, up 27% from $2.00 billion the previous year.  
    “We were very pleased with our third-quarter results,” said Abercrombie & Fitch CEO Fran Horowitz in a release.

    M&S BOOSTS BRAND OWNERSHIP, ACQUIRES SHARE ON NOBODY’S CHILD

    M&S

    M&S is all set to increase its market offering, and its most recent step is to purchase a 25% stake in Nobody’s Child for an undisclosed figure. The retail giant, which launched the label to its offering last year, appears to be satisfied with the outcomes of the collaboration, stating that “after a great first year of working together,” it is “developing its engagement” with the company. The most popular product category with M&S consumers has been the selection of midi dresses, with dresses accounting for 12% of Nobody’s Child purchases placed on M&S.com to far. The store stated that the “eco-conscious, affordable” brand will continue to operate autonomously, “but with the ability to build the business using M&S’s investment and infrastructure.” M&S will profit greatly from Nobody’s Child’s agility, including the brand’s focus on near-sourcing supply, which has previously been highlighted as a growth prospect, in addition to being an exciting investment opportunity.“Nobody’s Child was the first brand to launch on M&S.com and has proved incredibly popular with new and existing M&S customers, said Richard Price, MD, M&S Clothing and Home.

    CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS IN JAPAN OPT TO CEASE ZINJIANG COTTON

    JAPAN

    Garment manufacturers all around the world have been vocal in their opposition to cotton grown in China’s western Xinjiang region, and now Japanese apparel manufacturers are following suit. According to Nikkei Asia, a renowned Japanese financial daily, Japanese clothing makers, including Sanyo Shokai and TSI Holdings, have chosen to discontinue using Xinjiang cotton, following in the footsteps of Mizuno, a major sports equipment and sportswear firm, and others. Sanyo Shokai, which distributes garments under the Paul Stuart, Epoca, and Mackintosh Philosophy labels, will discontinue the use of Xinjiang cotton in the spring/summer of 2022. Shinji Oe, President of Sanyo Shokai, stated that the corporation has acquired information on human rights violations in Xinjiang but has been unable to verify the facts. It’s also evident that Fast Retailing, the company behind the Uniqlo casual clothesline, has set up a mechanism to monitor the manufacturing of the commodities it uses, including cotton, for suspected human rights breaches and other ethical issues. To ensure ethical manufacturing, Tadashi Yanai, the company’s chairman, and CEO, has committed to “achieve high levels of traceability” across the supply chain, down to cotton farmers.

    GOOGLE UNVEILS THE GLOBAL FIBRE IMPACT EXPLORER (GFIE) TOOL FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN

    GOOGLE

    Google is collaborating with Stella McCartney, The Textile Exchange, and the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) on the Global Fibre Impact Explorer (GFIE) tool to assist the fashion industry to become more sustainable. The tool is designed to assist companies in understanding the environmental challenges associated with acquiring the raw materials they use, allowing them to make more environmentally conscious decisions. Google collaborated with McCartney “to understand the industry’s demands and to test the platform,” and a few other prominent brands and stores, like Adidas, Allbirds, H&M Group, and VF Corporation, were also involved in the pre-release process. It is now encouraging people to express their interest in utilizing it. The initial version of the GFIE is built on Google Earth Engine and uses Google Cloud computing to analyze the environmental risk of various fibres in connection to aspects like air pollution, biodiversity, climate, and greenhouse gas emissions, forestry, and water consumption. The tool should make it simple to “detect environmental concerns across over 20 fibre types — including natural, cellulosic, and synthetic materials.” It will also make suggestions for targeted and geographically relevant risk mitigation measures to brands.

    MADEWELL STIMULATES HOLIDAY ENGAGEMENT WITH ITS INSIDER LOYALTY PROGRAM UPDATE

    MADEWELL

    Madewell Insider, the J.Crew Group-owned brand’s loyalty program, started in the United States in 2016 and was broadened in 2020 to include more rewards for members. Members enjoyed early access to Madewell’s Black Friday sale, as well as a special gift with purchase on purchases over $125, free monogramming, and access to in-store stylists for gift assistance, all leading up to the Christmas shopping season. Members are rewarded on a sliding scale under the new scheme, with Madewell Insider status decided by how much a consumer spends each calendar year. Members receive a $10 incentive for every 250 points they acquire. On certain days throughout the year, Madewell Star and Icon members (those who spend $500 and $1,000, respectively) get triple points. “This holiday season our goal is to ‘Make it Magic’ for our customers and get them excited to shop. We want to cement for our customers that Madewell is the top destination for an incredible shopping experience and there’s no better time of year to show what you’re made of than the holiday season.” said Derek Yarbrough, Madewell chief marketing officer.

  • Ian Berry’s ‘Material World’ Exhibits At Textil Museet Sweden

    Ian Berry’s ‘Material World’ Exhibits At Textil Museet Sweden

    He’s done it again! Ian Berry has just opened a show in Sweden, the country he lived in for 5 years to open the solo exhibition Material World at Textil Museet in BorÃ¥s Sweden – the National Museum of Textiles and the Nordic region’s leading museum on the subject and it looks even better than the last.

    The Textil Museet shows some of Berry’s most well-known pieces never seen in Sweden before but often on this site – large (denim) ‘canvases’, made with layers of recycled jeans, creating photorealistic yet often melancholy scenes out of the indigo fabric he is known throughout our industry and the world for.

    To celebrate showing a large collection of his works at Textil Museet Ian Berry has collaborated with Dutch fashion designer Jonathan Christopher to create garments inspired by his most notable bodies of work; Behind Closed Doors, Hotel California, and the Secret Garden installation, amongst others, that debuted at the museum and looks stunning. 

    The Secret Garden installation touches on subjects such as sustainability and the environment, and once more Berry collaborated with our friends Tonello in Italy for the washing and lasering and with Cone Denim. It showcases this material made from plants turning back into plants, with hanging wisteria, flowers and vines falling from the institution’s ceiling and making this even more special is the beautiful black room making the install even more magical. Within the Garden now, Jonathan Christopher has made a beautiful dress named Cunae- Cradle which looks elegant and fragile.

    ‘Everything we have and take starts from nature, we alter, we add, and we consume. Once we have used it, it will return to nature with all the harmful chemicals and additives we used.’ Jonathan adds.

    ‘The dress is representing mother nature with her vines connecting the circle of life. Where the butterflies symbolize the butterfly effect we have on mother nature. We create our own toxic environment where our harmful practices aren’t able to be undone by nature and things like microplastics are found in the animals, soils, and plants.’

    Sustainability is also at the core of Ian Berry’s friend Lill O.Sjöberg’s innovation. Making denim wood, TWOOD, is the Swedish designer’s latest innovation and the pair have come together to exhibit two pieces that compliment Ian Berry’s work that looks back at the history of denim – specifically that of Rock and Roll. TWOOD shows both a guitar and a drum kit made of wood created only with denim scraps and displayed with the album covers from Ian Berry’s much loved 2012 Record Store.

    Of course, Ian Berry’s specific medium is denim, and the famed industrial city also has a textile and denim heritage and is home to the national museum. Within the same complex is the Swedish school of Textiles, a part of Boras University. It’s one of the world’s leading courses, if not the leading course on textile innovation and sustainability. A number of the students came to help Ian Berry in the install. His show Material World also helps the city celebrate its 400 year anniversary.

    Ian Berry Needs You! 

    Ian Berry is asking, who is your favourite Denim Legend? You may have seen online already the question being asked and it has continued into the museum.


    It could be from the cowboy actors, 50’s rebels, the punks of the 70’s to the influencers of today. Who inspired your denim looks or who do you feel had the biggest impact on denim? Over the last year, he has been asking this question and using his wealth of knowledge from working with the material over the last 15 years has already created dozens of portraits from Brooke Shields to Bardot, Marley to Moss, McQueen to the material girl living in her own material world -Madonna. As he creates one of his largest works, he asks the audience to help shape it – it may even end up with a Swede in now! It may mean some of the portraits already made will get rejected so the piece will form the greatest influences from Pop Culture, making the Denim Legends.

    The temporary install in Sweden will grow and evolve over the period of the show, which is six months to May 1, adding in new Denim Legends as people and experts add their own opinion. The install at the moment also includes mannequins dressed in the distinctive style of some of the most famous, like Marilyn’s Lee Rider, Brando’s jeans and leather and Hendrix’s frays.

    The portraits are exhibited in an area where visitors can submit their choices and also watch short videos of the making of and some of the icons in action in the films, music, and ads they helped make denim so popular in.

    Malena Karlsson, Curator at the Textile Museum of Sweden, says

    “Ian Berry’s work is interesting and important on so many levels. There’s the ‘wow’ factor of the craft, the thematics, and the way in which his art shows how the textile material forms yet another dimension in art”,

    Ian Berry appeared on the ‘30 Under 30’ list of the most influential artists in the world, has exhibited his work in both the USA and Europe, and was on the 2019 Rivet 50 list of the most influential in denim. The Textile Museum of Sweden was very happy to announce the arrival of Ian Berry, a ‘dream’ for curator Malena Karlsson.

    It’s not a photograph, it’s jeans!
    At first sight, it is easy to mistake Berry’s work for blue- or indigo-tinted photographs, but a closer look reveals that they are made up of layer upon layer of denim in different shades. The contrasts between the different shades of blue visible in a pile of old jeans were the genesis of Berry’s unique art form. Soon, he began to explore the possibilities offered by the material and create photorealistic artworks. Berry only uses upcycled denim in his works. No colouring agents or bleach are used – only scissors, glue, and second-hand jeans.


    Berry was born and raised in Huddersfield, England, which like Borås has a long-standing textile tradition. Over a decade ago, Ian Berry moved to Sweden and exhibited his art at galleries in Skåne and Motala. Since then, his art has been exhibited all over the world, most recently at Museum Rijswijk in the Netherlands and in Genoa, the Italian city that leant its name to this favourite garment, jeans with his portrait of Garibaldi. The Textile Museum of Sweden is the first Swedish museum to exhibit a large, in-depth exhibition of Ian Berry’s works.

    About Twood

    Ian Berry and Lil O.Sjöberg have been friends for several years. Ian says ‘she’s a humble genius’. She is based not far the from the Textil Museet in Gothenburg and has worked with the Smart Textiles there. Ian Berry and Lil were together before the pandemic but since could only talk online, but together they came up with the idea to use the wood to make a drum kit, a nod to Ian’s show about the music connection to denim. There is also a denim guitar all exhibited with Ian Berry’s albums from the 2012 Record Store installation.

    This material research project by Swede Lil O.Sjöberg and her collaborators explores the possibilities to extend the lifecycle of denim fibre with a new innovative recycling technique, creating a new material TWOOD [textile-wood], and is made just had wood is created beautiful contours.

    The aim of this ongoing part of the project is to identify and develop the industrial processes. The goal is to produce material prototypes and evaluate the material specifications to target usability for the next step. With the material, she has been able to make items that range from tables to a beautiful denim Twood guitar and drum kit, the latter with the help of ICE percussion/Kjetil Granli.

    About Jonathan Christopher 

    Ian Berry and Jonathan Christopher collaborated to base wearable garments on many of his pieces. Having turned down many brands and designers over the years it is great to see this idea coming to life with the tiled floor of Behind Closed Doors, incorporated into a bomber jacket, the ripples of the pool making a full suit and the showstopper, the garden morphing into a dress based on the vines and flowers of the secret garden. Walking into the museum the first thing you see in the darkened room is the dress framed in the beautiful garden and long with Ian Berry’s Denim art, the black walls make them look stunning.

    Jonathan Christopher (Hofwegen) Celestial Risher is a menswear designer who graduated from the Willem de Kooning Academy in 2009. After which he did his MA at Artez in Arnhem. Next to his own brand, Jonathan Christopher, he has worked for brands such as Karl Lagerfeld and was chosen by Marc Jacobs to be one of the five finalists for Designer for Tomorrow by Peek en Cloppenburg.

    In 2014 he won the very first Global Denim Awards and in 2015 he won the Woolmark European Finals. He now works on a new brand St.Ape, basing the idea around using deadstock fabrics from high-end designers, to make his collections of limited editions, as he has throughout his career. Reusing old materials makes him a perfect and authentic collaborator for Ian Berry. 

    For these garments, he also worked with his own long-term collaborators with Paolo Gnutti of PG denim with their many innovations and fabrics.

    Ian Berry adds

    ‘Jonathan Christopher is a special creative that understands both designs as well as making himself, understanding the whole production line. As an artist who for most of my career has only had for the main part, solo shows, it has been nice to work with others on creating something and if I’m honest because we brought together some of my best pieces from different bodies of work, it is Jonathan’s creations that I find bind the show together. I remember when he won the first Global Denim Award and was there that night and his show blew my mind.

    Giant Rock’n Roll Jacket

    Welcoming visitors into the museum as you mount the stairs is a giant Jacket that Ian Berry collaborated with Henry Wong of AGI denim to produce. It creates an imposing figure over the entry in the museum and combined with the giant badges, made in the denim of some of the music histories denim legends it complements the show together with the Denim Legends Portraits and the Twood musical instruments. With giant sewn patches it is perhaps an indication of how denim became mass and too big via popular culture.

    TEXTIL MUSEET til 1 May 2022

  • The Circular Denim Capsule: Primark X The Jeans Redesign Project

    The Circular Denim Capsule: Primark X The Jeans Redesign Project

    circular denim capsule

    Primark has introduced a new denim collection designed to highlight what circular fashion signifies in practical terms. The new line is part of The Jeans Redesign, a fashion initiative of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, and features denim that has been designed, developed, and created to correspond with the Foundation’s goal of a circular economy for fashion. The procedures, which are based on the concepts of the circular economy, suggest that jeans are worn extensively, built to be created again, and are made with safe, recycled, or sustainable materials.

    According to Lynne Walker, Director of Primark Cares, the brand launched its Primark Cares sustainability strategy in September and committed to changing the way clothes were made, ensuring that they are recyclable by design by 2027, made from more sustainably sourced or recycled materials by 2030, and last longer by 2025. He went on to say that denim was a wardrobe essential for their customers. This new release brings the brand’s vision to life and demonstrates what these changes look like in reality. Most significantly, Primark proves that it can do so without sacrificing the design and price that customers adore.

    WHAT THE COLLECTION OFFERS

    primark

    Primark has therefore provided a unique range of jeans and denim jackets as a part of the Jeans Redesign project, comprising denim crafted from organic cotton and recycled fibers. The denim is deliberately designed to be readily recycled so that it can be transformed into new jeans after they are no longer worn. Metal rivets are not used in the product, which is a regular style component that might make recycling jeans difficult. Labeling also contains instructions for removing buttons and zips before recycling to guarantee that the product has a second life.

    The jeans are composed of 70% organic cotton, 29% recycled cotton, and 1% elastane, while the jackets are produced from 80% organic cotton and 20% recycled cotton. Denim jeans for women (£19) and denim jeans for men (£18), as well as an adult denim jacket for £21, are part of the assortment. The collection is currently available at 161 Primark stores in the 14 countries in which the brand serves.

     â€œThe Jeans Redesign demonstrates that it is possible to create garments fit for a circular economy today, and this is just the beginning. By taking these first steps, organizations like Primark build the confidence to explore and learn how to put products on the market aligned with circular economy principles. We’re pleased to see the solutions identified by Primark and the growing understanding of the challenges that must be addressed to achieve the vision of a circular economy for fashion. Now the concept has been proven, we cannot delay progress. There is a need for industry and government to continue driving momentum, at pace and scale, towards a circular economy for fashion.” Said Laura Balmond, Lead Make Fashion Circular at the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.

    PRIMARK’S COMMITMENTS TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY

    The Jeans Redesign

    This circular denim line adheres to the announcement of Primark’s sustainability strategy the previous month. In it, the global retailer stated its objectives to minimize fashion waste, cut carbon emissions up to 50 percent throughout its value chain, and promote the welfare of those who work in the Primark factory. Primark is boosting its drive to become a circular and more sustainable brand within the next five years, with nine commitments all across the company. Primary goals include utilizing recycled and more sustainably produced materials in all of its merchandise by 2030, up from 25% currently, thus guaranteeing clothing is meant to be recycled, and enabling clothes longevity.

    It is also seeking ways to reduce carbon emissions by at least50 percent at every phase of the Primark product life cycle, from the fields where raw materials are acquired to processing and manufacturing, and finally when a customer buys a Primark product in-store. In terms of the people who manufacture its products, Primark is striving to support and enrich the lives of those who make its apparel by implementing a living wage by 2030.

    ABOUT THE JEANS REDESIGN PROJECT

    primark

    The Jeans Redesign initiative aims to increase circularity in the denim industry by establishing criteria for brands and suppliers to follow to create jeans that can be used more often, are designed to be created again, and are made of safe, recyclable, and renewable sources. The guidelines, which are based on the principles of the circular economy, will seek to guarantee that jeans last longer, can be readily recycled, and are created in a way that is healthier for the environment and the health of garment workers. This project is a part of Make Fashion Circular.

    The Ellen MacArthur Foundation launched Make Fashion Circular during the 2017 Copenhagen Fashion Summit, bringing together leaders from the fashion industry to collaborate with cities, charities, non-governmental organizations (NGOs), and innovators. Make Fashion Circular is spearheading international efforts to reduce waste and pollution in the fashion industry by establishing a circular economy in which garments are worn more frequently, are designed to be reused, and are created from safe, recycled, or renewable materials.

  • Lee And Pendleton Collaborate For A Limited-Edition Capsule Collection

    Lee And Pendleton Collaborate For A Limited-Edition Capsule Collection

     Iconic American brands Lee and Pendleton have recently announced the launch of their first collaboration. Lee, the famed fashion label known for its ageless aesthetic, and Pendleton Woolen Mills, the family-owned lifestyle brand based in the Pacific Northwest, have joined forces on a selected capsule that honours American craftsmanship and artistry. Both Kontoor-owned brands designed and created an assortment that reflects their origins in a contemporary way, while having almost 300 years of textile and garment-making expertise between them.

    Lee

     â€œWorking with Lee was a perfect pairing for Pendleton. Their authentic American heritage brand echoes Pendleton’s dedication to quality, design and textile innovation,” said Peter Bishop, Pendleton executive vice president of merchandise and design.

    The denim range perfectly captures the American outdoor-meets-work wear vibe.

    WHAT THE COLLECTION OFFERS

    Pendleton

    This limited-edition ensemble retraces wardrobe staples from the brands’ 300 years of collective clothing experience. Original Lee silhouettes including the Lee 101 Jean, Union-Alls, and Storm Rider Jacket have been reinterpreted with Pendleton intricate designs. Each heritage pattern has been recreated in completely new colors on fabric made in the United States. Woolen pieces are harnessed as shirting material and can be seen on collars, pockets, and piping. A minimal wool blanket is also contained in the assortment.

    Lee And Pendleton

    The jeans are handcrafted and produced locally in Greensboro, North Carolina, adding to the capsule’s distinctiveness. These designs provide some of the last remaining American selvedge denim from Cone Denim’s White Oak Mill, which closed in 2017. The fabric, which was spun on old Draper shuttle looms that could only generate 100 yards per day, is yet another thread in this capsule’s that ties links with  American textile history. Lee and Pendleton are both wholly accustomed to co-branded endeavors.

    Lee And Pendleton

    The woolen mill has transferred its signature designs to a wide range of items, including Ariat boots, Vans shoes, and Kith loungewear, as well as Hunter ceiling fans and Sunbrella outdoor home accessories. Meanwhile, Lee has increased its collaborative efforts to appeal to a broader range of customers. This year, Lee debuted collaborations with H&M, The Hundreds, and Alife.

    Lee And Pendleton

    As seen by Betty Madden, Lee vice president of global design, Pendleton’s choice of color and patterning has proven to be of great ingenuity for the denim manufacturer.

    “Working together is a dream come true. We’ve taken a fresh design approach and incorporated Cone Mills’ selvedge denim to make this collection heirloom quality with stunning craftsmanship. I’m thrilled with this collaboration.” Said Betty Madden, Lee vice president of global design.

    THE WHITE OAK SELVEDGE FABRIC

    white oak

    The origins of American selvedge fabric, especially the white oak plant, dates back to 1905. The phrases selvedge denim and self-edge – or self-finished cloth edges – are related. Selvedge denim jeans use the self-edge as a completed seam in the jean construction, particularly along the outseam. Selvedge denim is made using traditional weaving processes. Authentically weaved on antique looms. Selvedge looms were widely used in denim weaving until the mid-to-late-nineteenth century. As global demand for denim increased, US mills began updating their gear to increase production speed, rendering selvedge looms obsolete. Older selvedge looms were slower and produced less consistently. With the demand for denim workwear skyrocketing in the United States. Moses and Ceasar Cone were noted for producing selvedge denim on its 3×1 draper looms, for which it became most famous.

    cone

    Cone’s famous selvedge denim has been created in the White Oak facility since it was bought in 1905, and the plant was named after a big oak tree that previously stood in its shade. After decades of increasingly disposable jeans from large manufacturers, customers increasingly learned to value the toughness, longevity, and build quality of denim manufacturers like Cone. Today, selvedge weaving has regained prominence due to the weaving technique’s legacy and the mills that prefer to produce it.

     THE LEE 101 JEANS

    Lee 101 jeans
    Lee 101 jeans

    The first pair of Lee 101 jeans was crafted in the American Midwest in 1924. A heavy-duty, robust pair of jeans to fulfill the now-legendary Cowboy’s work and leisure needs. The groundbreaking, crisp fit designed in high-quality textiles meant that the 101 became renowned among both weathered lone riders and showmen like rodeo stars. The unique vintage denim is colored and then woven using looms that have been utilized in Japan for the previous 50 years. Back pockets with an S-curve and a spade shape, X-tacks, a hip pocket label, and Lee brand rivets and buttons. Now in the ninth decade of the 101’s existence, Lee intends to launch a line of clothing to commemorate the 101’s historically significant background, proudly displaying the exquisite workmanship and glorifying the pioneering spirit that inspired it.

    Lee 101 jeans

    Men’s and women’s pants, shirts, jackets, and Union-Alls are included in the collection, as is a limited-edition woolen blanket with an exclusive Pendleton stripe design. The collection, which ranges in price from $175 to $400, is available online on Lee’s and Pendleton’s websites. It will also be accessible in select Pendleton stores and local boutiques later this month.

  • Denim News Snippets – Week 44

    Denim News Snippets – Week 44

    Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 44

    WITH THE ‘SECOND HAND’ PROJECT, DIESEL ENTERS THE RESALE MARKET

    diesel

    Diesel is releasing a “carefully curated edit” of vintage denim that has been repaired and renewed in select Italian storefronts and online all over Europe. The ‘Second Hand’ project intends to provide a “unique and inspirational approach to take actions towards circularity,” according to Diesel, by allowing customers to continue Diesel merchandise in use for forthcoming years.

    During the summer, the process began with denim buyback programmes in select Italian stores, and Diesel gathered 900 pairs of jeans to give them a second chance at life. The reselling project will also serve to decrease a pair of denim jeans’ carbon and water footprint. Furthermore, all clothing is sprayed with Viral off and Odor Crunch, a Polygiene-developed combination treatment with anti-microbial and odour-resistant qualities that allows for less frequent laundry throughout consumer usage. Diesel ‘Second Hand’ merchandise may be purchased at three selected stores in Italy: Milan, Florence, and Rome, as well as online at diesel.com from anywhere in Europe. Diesel also stated that its buyback denim program will keep going in Italy.

    AUSTRIAN TEXTILE BRAND LENZING, RETURNS TO PROFITABILITY IN THE THIRD QUARTER

    lenzing

    In the third quarter (Q3) of FY21, which concluded on September 30, 2021, Lenzing Group, an Austrian pioneer in sustainable specialty fibers, reported a revenue increase of 32.9% to €1.59 billion, up from €1.2 billion in the same time of 2020. The nine-month net profit increased to €113.4 million (Q3 FY20: loss €23.3 million). According to the company, the success during the reporting period was attributed to greater sales volume as well as higher viscose pricing, which reached more than RMB 15,000 (renminbi) in May due to considerably stronger demand for fibers, particularly in Asia. EBITDA (profits before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization) more than quadrupled to €297.6 million (€138.5 million) in the third quarter.

    Lenzing expects EBITDA to reach €360 million in FY21, according to its forecast. Furthermore, the need for sustainably generated fibers for the textile and garment sectors, as well as the hygiene and medical industries, is expected to continue to expand. Because of a variety of legislative actions, this tendency is expected to continue unabated beyond the COVID-19 pandemic.

    KONTOOR BRANDS ANNOUNCES RESULTS FOR THE THIRD QUARTER OF 2021

    Kontoor

    Kontoor Brands Inc., which owns the Wrangler and Lee brands, boosted its fiscal 2021 estimation this week by releasing third-quarter financial results. In 2020, revenue is predicted to grow by a high-teens percentage to $2.47 billion to $2.48 billion, up from a mid-teens percentage in the previous projection. In comparison to the 41.2% achieved in 2020, the adjusted gross margin is now expected to grow to the high end of the earlier projection range of 44.5% to 45% of revenue. Revenue climbed 12% to $652 million in the third quarter ended Oct. 2, principally due to growth in digital, especially own.com and digital wholesale, as well as better performance throughout the U.S. wholesale business and good trends in overseas markets. Net income increased 4.3% to $63.41 million in the third quarter, up from $60.79 million the previous year.

    EBITDA (earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization) was $94.23 million. Adjusted EBITDA increased 1% to $111 million. “Kontoor is uniquely positioned to win in the marketplace, as evidenced by another quarter of broad-based strength across segments, channels, and regions. And we expect our momentum to continue building, as reflected in our raised fiscal year guidance. Our strategic investments in key TSR-bolstering enablers such as digital, demand creation, and people should fuel our accelerating fundamentals,” said Scott Baxter, President, and Chief Executive Officer, Kontoor Brands.

    VICUNHA USES POLYGIENE’S STAY FRESH TECH FOR ITS FABRICS

    Vicunha

    Polygiene, a Swedish chemical business, is gaining traction in the denim industry. Vicunha, a Brazilian denim mill, is the latest to incorporate its Stay Fresh technologies into fabrics, a suite of solutions designed to keep garments clean and odour-free between washes. Polygiene’s BioStatic and OdorCrunch technologies are used to treat the mill’s 2021-2022 collection.  Polygiene Biostatic is an antimicrobial technique that inhibits the growth of odour-causing bacteria, hence preventing the stink from spreading.

    Polygiene OdorCrunch eliminates odours from the surroundings such as kitchen fumes, cigarette smoke, or body odour by encapsulating and splitting the molecules, so eliminating the irritating aroma from the clothing. Although the technologies have been embraced by companies large and small, such as Diesel and Hiut Denim, Polygiene states that Vicunha is the first Latin American mill to apply them. Vicunha’s products are offered in denim and denim colour bases. “The partnership with Vicunha is a milestone for us in the denim segment and a breakthrough in the Brazilian market in general,” said Ulrika Björk, Polygiene CEO. “We are very proud to start working with this global leader and see it as a long-term cooperation for a more sustainable textile industry, and society.” Products like Polygiene’s are becoming more popular as customers embrace more responsible methods of closet maintenance.

  • Ralph Lauren Initiates Regenerative Cotton Program

    Ralph Lauren Initiates Regenerative Cotton Program

    Ralph Lauren

    The Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation and the Soil Health Institute have initiated a regenerative cotton program. The program, which serves to facilitate long-term sustainable cotton production in the United States, aims to eliminate a million metric tons of carbon dioxide from the atmosphere by 2026. The Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation has rendered a five-million-dollar grant to the US Regenerative Cotton Fund (USRCF). The initiative seeks to educate and induce farmers to use regenerative farming methods such as cover cropping and no-till. The Soil Health Institute is a strong global non-profit organization whose aim is to maintain and preserve soil vitality and production via scientific analysis and innovation. It gathers up soil health research specialists to facilitate farmers, ranchers, and landowners in implementing soil health systems that strengthen drought resistance, stabilize yield, and significantly improve their bottom line.

    Ralph Lauren

    Partnerships to scale solutions that promote community resilience, according to Roseann Lynch, Ralph Lauren Corporation’s Chief People Officer, are effective methods to positively affect people’s lives today and in the future. The U.S. Regenerative Cotton Fund is a visionary move co-created by the Soil Health Institute that puts farmers at the core of developing a sustainable tomorrow for U.S. cotton production.

    “At the Ralph Lauren Corporate, Foundation, we work to make the dream of a better life a reality by championing equity and creating positive change in communities around the world,” said Roseann Lynch, Chief People Officer and Head of the Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation. 

    Dr. Cristine Morgan, Chief Scientific Officer for the Soil Health Institute and leader of the U.S. Regenerative Cotton Fund, believes that she is grateful for the opportunity to promote soil health and assist cotton farmers across the United States in stashing more carbon, constructing drought resilience, and minimizing the very effects of climate change that are affecting all of us. To obtain substantial environmental benefits from regenerative agriculture, she affirms that they must first comprehend farmers’ needs and experiences with the help of these initiatives. Adoption is hampered by a lack of understanding about the business case, locally appropriate soil health education programs, and, until recently, knowledge about how healthy a given soil may become and what that implies for enhancing drought resistance, production stability, economics, and other benefits for farmers.

    Soil Health

    Besides, there exists a tremendous opportunity to increase the use of climate-friendly soil health techniques in cotton cultivation. According to USDA Census of Agriculture statistics, just 8% of cotton acreage is managed using cover cropping, whereas 21% is maintained with no-tillage. The USRCF will also enable cotton growers to benefit from regenerative approaches such as cover cropping and no-till farming. Climate change, water quality, and pollinator habitat are all challenges that regenerative farming techniques can solve for both customers and the environment. The initiative will also assist farmers in producing long-term value for their farms, such as enhanced profit potential.

    The Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation has donated $5 million to the USRCF. Cotton presently accounts for more than 80% of Ralph Lauren Corporation’s overall material utilization. As part of its Global Citizenship & Sustainability goals, the company has pledged that all major resources, especially cotton, would be procured sustainably by 2025.

    Ralph Lauren’s commitment to innovate, endorse, and grow sustainable innovation through collaborations and investments, such as its work with Natural Fiber Welding, Inc. And Color on Demand, is reinforced by the Foundation’s USRCF initiative.

     â€œOur support of the U.S. Regenerative Cotton Fund, led by the Soil Health Institute, continues Cotton Incorporated’s holistic approach and producer focus for achieving the environmental and economic benefits generated by improving soil health,” said Dr Kater Hake, Vice President of Agricultural and Environmental Research at Cotton Incorporated.

    The USRCF will begin operations in Arkansas, Texas, Mississippi, and Georgia, with visions to greatly expand into Alabama, North Carolina, Missouri, California, and Oklahoma, since all these nine states account for 85 per cent of cotton output in the United States. The Soil Health Institute will collaborate effectively with cotton farmers to assess and analyze the environmental, sociological, and financial benefits of soil health management systems on their practices.

    Noticeable improvements in soil health and carbon sequestration will be monitored through the USRCF using a method established by the Soil Health Institute named soil health and soil carbon targets. The USRCF will also necessarily work with Historically Black Colleges and Universities (HBCUs), particularly those with agricultural programs, to boost access to career options in decision-making positions in U.S. agriculture and to develop a mentoring program to help prepare the upcoming generation of agricultural scientists and leaders.

    ABOUT RALPH LAUREN CORPORATE FOUNDATION

    ralph lauren

    The Ralph Lauren Corporation is an American fashion brand incorporated in 1967 by American fashion designer Ralph Lauren. The Ralph Lauren Corporate Foundation is a non-profit organization founded by Ralph Lauren. By advocating fairness and strengthening underprivileged communities around the world, the Foundation aims to make the idea of a better life a reality. The Foundation, which was founded in 2001, is dedicated to making a difference in four key areas: cancer care and prevention, environmental protection, advocacy and access, and community resilience. Through its nonprofit relationships, investments, and volunteer activities, it strives to effect significant change in its communities.

  • Levi’s X Verdy: Wasted Youth Girls Don’t Cry Collection

    Levi’s X Verdy: Wasted Youth Girls Don’t Cry Collection

     Prominent Denim brand Levi’s® recently unveiled their unisex collaboration with Japanese artist VERDY on a limited range capsule. Since Levi’s and Verdy’s work is driven by authenticity, it is only inevitable that the two have partnered once more on a collection honoring both of the latter’s brands: Wasted Youth and Girls Don’t Cry.

    Earlier, Wasted Youth collaborated with Levi’s to create a pair of custom 501 jeans. This season, the brand embraces its skate and punk influences to produce a utilitarian worker’s jacket in black with a white embroidered Wasted Youth emblem on the chest and a tulip design on the back with a combined Wasted Youth-meets-Levi’s logo. The internal neckline features the distinctive Levi’s brown tab, and the ensemble is sealed with a brass-looking zipper.

    THE GIRLS DON’T CRY COLLECTION

    Levi's X Verdy

    Verdy and Levi have worked very closely on a pair of 701 jeans as it is Verdy’s wife’s absolute favorite and Girls Don’t Cry is a tribute to her. Other pieces include a pair of bright red corduroy overalls and a matching trucker jacket. The cursive logo of Girls Don’t Cry is woven upon each of the red pieces, giving brand recognition to the collar of the jacket and the back neckline of the overalls.

    Levi's X Verdy
    Levi's

    Whilst Levi’s brown tag on the jeans has been replaced with a love heart and on the opposite side, one can find Girls Don’t Cry embroidered in red. The gender-neutral capsule collection is showcased in a campaign and a video that was filmed on a ranch in Los Angeles is inspired by old Levi’s ad campaigns. The Wasted Youth Range was the first to be released, followed by the Girls Don’t Cry Assortment.

    The collection, which is divided into 2 segments, is currently available on Levi’s app and in certain countries online.

    LEVI’S X WASTED YOUTH PREVIOUS DROP

    Levi's

    Levi’s already teamed up with Wasted Youth for a customized edition of the legendary denim jean that exemplified traditional American fashion over the decades in honor of Levi’s 501 this year. Verdy’s cult Japanese brand Wasted Youth has long been associated with producing creative design reproductions influenced by the ’70s punk era. With Levi’s x Wasted Youth 501 ’93 Straight, developed exclusively by Verdy previously this year, the two brands paid tribute to the ideas of liberty and rebellion.

    The jeans had detailed red-zig stitching at the waist and coin pocket, including the embroidered inscription “Don’t Bother Me Anymore,” which is directly influenced by Tokyo street style, skateboarding, and punk culture. A D-ring is affixed to the front right belt loop as a homage to the punk look, along with a co-branded collaborative backpack that blends Levi’s classic Two Horse pull and Wasted Youth logo. The Levi’s x Wasted Youth 501 ’93 Straight is exclusive to 501 pairs globally.

    LEVI’S ONGOING EFFORTS FOR PLANET-FRIENDLY FASHION

    buy better wear longer

    To raise awareness about overproduction and overconsumption, Levi’s introduced the Buy Better, Wear Longer campaign, which serves as a drive to action for their selves, their consumers, and the industry. It’s an attempt to be more thoughtful in how people design, manufacture, sell and consume clothes. Under its “Buy Better, Wear Longer” campaign, Levi’s advances towards sustainable production practices by minimizing its carbon footprint and accelerating the development of a more environmentally responsible apparel industry.

    Levi's
    Xiye Bastida from the Levi’s® Buy Better. Wear Longer Film

    This involves adopting progressive climate and water measures, as well as engaging in materials and technologies like Cottonized Hemp and Organic Cotton, as well as increasing waterless production. To date, its waterless technology is used in 76% of all Levi Strauss & Co. Goods and 70% of all Levi’s bottoms and Trucker Jackets. These technological advances have also been openly available to all for incentivizing the industry to employ such water-saving methods.

    buy better wear longer

    “Levi Strauss & Co. has been in business for more than 168 years because we make durable products that are built to last and because we proudly adhere to a guiding philosophy of profits through principles across our operations. This is how we contribute to the establishment of a safer, more just, more sustainable future,” said Chip Bergh, Levi Strauss & Co.’s CEO.

    Moreover, the brand detailed the company’s disclosures to fulfill consumer needs and outlined its commitments to transparency in its annual sustainability report. Climate, consumerism, and community are the three key categories that the company’s sustainability approach revolves upon.  Overall, the report indicates that the effort to use less water, reduce carbon emissions, and become more circular is continued. The brand likewise aims to be more diverse and inclusive, while also using its voice and resources to empower communities.

  • Denim News Snippets – Week 43

    Denim News Snippets – Week 43

    Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 43

    Pangaia launches a climate-positive space inside the Galeries Lafayette in Paris

    In collaboration with Galeries Lafayette, ethical apparel brand Pangaia has unveiled its first physical shopping experience in France. The label has created an interactive environment inspired by its dedication to ‘high tech naturalism’ for the temporary show at the premium department store in Paris. The label collaborated with Galeries Lafayette to develop a climate-friendly ambiance, minimizing the space’s carbon footprint.

    The circular disciplined store, designed as a translation of Pangaia’s story, aims to inform visitors of the brand’s material advancements. A peppermint garden greets visitors as they approach the venue, referencing the label’s unique Pprmint technology, which uses natural peppermint oil in fabric fiber to keep apparel fresher for longer. Other innovations emphasized in the experience include C-fibre, a combination of eucalyptus pulp and seaweed that forms an alternative to cotton, and Flwrdwn, a natural, dried wildflower-based alternative to synthetic and animal down. Pangaia has handpicked a range of merchandise that it feels illustrates its most substantial approach, innovation via science, for part of the store-in-store experience. Furthermore, Pangaia and Galeries Lafayette will give 2% of the pop-net-up’s sales to the Bee The Change initiative. Furthermore, the environmentally friendly display is closely aligned with Galeries Lafayette’s ‘Go For Good’ programme, which is oriented on the availability of ethical fashion.

    As global demand for CmiA cotton surges, more partners join

    Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) has been joined by BRAX from Germany, Jolo Fashion Group from the Netherlands, and Shinsegae International from South Korea. They want to promote sustainable agriculture, safeguard the environment, and enhance the working and living circumstances of small-scale farmers and their families, which number approximately 1 million people. CmiA represents a socially and ecologically responsible foundation for the global textile chain as one of the world’s leading efforts for sustainably grown cotton in Africa. It humanizes the small-scale farmers who are the foundation of the fashion industry.

    CmiA cotton has a much lower ecological impact than the global average, according to the most recent study data. CmiA cotton contributes less to climate change since its greenhouse gas emissions are 13% lower than the global average for cotton agriculture. Small-scale farmers gain from agricultural and business training, which allows them to increase yields and enhance cultivation practices. CmiA actively campaigns for topics such as healthcare, respect for children’s rights, and equal rights for men and women in addition to sustainable cotton production. This has a direct impact on raising awareness of social concerns in village communities. Factory employees at ginneries, which separate cotton seeds from fibers by machine, benefit from better working conditions. The CmiA label allows consumers to identify certain items. According to the release, each purchase signifies a direct investment in improving living circumstances and conserving the environment.

    Arvind’s sales soared by 62% in the second quarter as demand rises

    Arvind Limited, one of India’s leading textile firms that also retails apparel, reported a 62% increase in revenue to 2,115 crores in the second quarter (Q2) of FY22, compared to 1,305 crores in the same time the previous year. Profit for the quarter ending September 30, 2021, increased to 70 crores (Q2 FY21: 1 crore). EBIDTA (earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization) climbed by 74% to 212 crores (122 crores) in the second quarter.

    Fabric shipments rebounded quickly and reached pre-covid levels in the reported quarter, while sarment volumes improved progressively, according to the business. In Q2 FY22, sales from the textile industry increased to 1,711 crores (1,017 crores), with denim volumes hitting 25 million meters and contributing 552 crores (335 crores), and wovens reaching 31 million meters and sales of 604 crores (288 crores).

    Likewise, owing to high demand across all areas – human protection, industrial belts and filters, and composites – sales of advanced materials increased by 60% to 297 crores (186 crores). Arvind Fashion’s forecast for the approaching quarter is that international clients have already pre-ordered for summer 22 and companies continue to show high momentum, while the local market is expected to remain robust following festival spending. Sales are expected to increase by 40% in the third quarter over FY21, and by 4% to 5% sequentially, according to the textile producer.

    H&M unveils an animal-friendly apparel collection that is certified by PETA

    After seeking consent from the animal rights group People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA), the Swedish fast-fashion store H&M will launch an animal-friendly clothing line in November. Flwrdwn, a wildflower-based substitute for animal down, and Vegea, a plant-based alternative for oil-based and animal-derived leathers, are among the fabrics and mechanisms featured in the ‘Co-Exist Story’ collection, which includes womenswear, menswear, and kidswear.

    Dramatic volumes, ’90s-inspired partywear, and utilitarian outerwear are included in the womenswear and menswear collections, which are designed for “a modern city person who wanders between late-night partying and early-morning hikes.” An enormous recycled polyester faux fur coat, a one-shouldered knitted dress with a bold fringed hem in an Econyl mix, and vegan leather trousers with a complementing jacket vest for women are among the collection’s key components. For men, there’s a graffiti-print recycled nylon oversized anorak, puffer shorts, and water-resistant pants. The ‘Co-Exist Story’ collection is the third in H&M’s Innovation Stories series, which started in early 2021 intending to highlight more sustainable products, materials, and designs. The H&M ‘Co-Exist Story’ collection will be available globally on hm.com and in select stores starting November 4th.

  • Pangaia Brings Out Its First-Ever Denim Line

    Pangaia Brings Out Its First-Ever Denim Line

    Pangaia

    London-based fashion retailer Pangaia is possibly the most inspiring sustainable style brand today. It is not based on trends or seasons, rather it is vegan, organic, biodegradable, and scientifically produced to work as close to Natural resources as possible. Recently, Pangaia debuted with its first denim collection created in collaboration with former Levi designer and Unspun consultant Jonathan Cheung. To minimize its dependence on cotton, the firm used Pannettle, a sustainable fabric for its denim.

    Denim

    Pannettle is developed from Himalayan nettle, a naturally renewable source that blooms again every year and may reach a height of 3 meters. Himalayan nettle is probably employed for the first time in selvedge denim, and it is blended with organic cotton from India to create the blue denim that is featured throughout the collection. Since it is made with a left-hand weave, the denim is soft, airy, and long-lasting. True to its shape, the three-piece collection hence comprises of premium fabrics: a blend of 13ounce, 92% organic cotton, and 18% Himalayan nettle woven at low speed on the Candiani Denim shuttle loom.

    THE HIMALAYAN NETTLE

    Wild Himalayan nettle was already “somewhat on board” when Cheung started Pangaia’s denim endeavor. The company examined hemp and agro-waste fibers for denim, but nettle showed the most promising result. The material met Pangaia’s criteria of durability and sustainability. Moreover, the hollow core of the linguini-shaped fiber gave thermoregulating effects. It also had a social advantage. Pangaia gets its nettle from a women-run cooperative, which grows in harsh climatic conditions in the Himalayas where nothing else can sustain.

    “So, it’s this idea that they can get an income based on their natural environment is one of those beautiful stories of sustainability, where we are trying to optimize what’s around us,” said Dr. Amanda Parkes, Pangaia chief innovation officer.

    Furthermore, peppermint, a sustainable oil used for anti-odor treatments, is also utilized in the Pannettle denim line. The oil treatment seeks to minimize the need to wash the product thus leading to less wastage of gallons of water.

    CHALLENGES FACED IN THE MAKING OF DENIM

    The problem with denim, she added, was making the fibers to be more soft and robust enough to match with cotton’s qualities. That’s when Cheung showed up to create a nettle fabric that’s sustainable, long-lasting, and aesthetically striking. With the assistance of Candiani Denim owner Alberto Candiani, he developed a fabric that he claims is universally malleable to many types of clothing and offers a layer of softness to neutralize the roughness of the nettle fiber. The collection’s production during covid presented “huge amounts of complications,” but it also spurred stakeholders to work differently. The initial prototypes were generated in 3D before the team went on to physical fits, which were mostly done via Zoom.

    Pangaia

    Working with nettle blends, however, was extremely challenging. Despite its value of being an incredibly strong fiber, nettle lacked the elasticity of cotton, posing problems throughout the weaving process. Cheung stated that he would not have been shocked if “broken parts of machinery” were found on Candiani’s floor. Another snag in the process was discovering that the cloth takes time to settle before cutting. The fix to this was a 48-hour rest period in which the rolled-out cloth was left undisturbed.

    They also noted that they needed to sew the jeans in reverse, rather than sewing the inseam from the left leg to the right leg. Cheung stated that the fabric’s left-hand twill shaped the overall design of the collection. The coin pocket and back patch, which are typically on the right side of jeans, are now on the left.

    “The collection is an example of slow fashion, being woven on shuttle looms that is about three times slower than projectile looms. Even the construction is slower than normal,” said Cheung.

    WHAT CONSTITUTES THE COLLECTION

    Denim

    The collection comprises uni-sex straight-leg jeans, a jean jacket inspired by the ’90s, and a women’s high-rise straight jeans in rinse and mid-wash. The unisex designs come in sizes ranging from women’s 25/men’s 27 to women’s 34/men’s 36. Gender-neutral sizing does not require its lingo, but Cheung, who recently collaborated on a genderless range of jeans with denim manufacturer Unspun, is keen to revolutionize the gender paradigm that the fashion industry has set up. In addition, each denim garment will come with a digital passport that will provide buyers access to product-level impact information. The new function debuted with the brand’s Horizon line and is intended to promote ethical consumption.

    Pangaia

    “Gender inclusiveness and gender fluidity have been very much a cultural mentality awakening in the last few years, and that is essential to address. I try to think of it as Omni-sex, pan-sex, or gender-full rather than unisex, which always feels more neutered to me,” Cheung added. If men and women are at opposing ends of a scale, Cheung wants to include everyone in between.

    The terminology of denim fits, on the other hand, has to be updated, according to Parkes. For example, renaming “boyfriend jeans” as “baggy fit” might help remove the uncertainty that comes with flashy words that each company translates diversely. She believes that non-gendered descriptions may help establish a common language around fashion and what individuals can anticipate from fits.

    Pangaia

    The collection is available for purchase on Pangaia’s website for $225-$275, with more denim items on the road. Additional designs, denim materials, and techniques are on the way, Cheung said.  Pangaia’s product line will be expanded in November 2021 with the addition of hemp and organic cotton.

     â€œThe future of creating a more sustainable fashion industry involves using existing natural materials, like regenerative nettle, that are augmented by scientific and technological processes.” Said Pangaia chief innovation officer Amanda Parkes.

    Pangaia’s mission is to promote biodiversity and regenerative agriculture ecosystems while also increasing supply chain resilience by utilizing a wider range of plant fiber sources. The brand is vigorously working on additional new denim breakthroughs that will bring a completely new material library into commercial existence.

  • Denim News Snippets – Week 42

    Denim News Snippets – Week 42

    Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 42

    Inditex, Amazon, and Patagonia jointly prepared to commit to zero-carbon shipping by 2040

    Inditex

    Inditex, Amazon, and Patagonia have joined the Cargo Owners for Zero-Emission Vessels (coZEV) alliance, committing to achieve carbon-free shipping by 2040. A significant group of companies has declared their ambition to transfer all of their ocean freights to zero-carbon emission boats by 2040, as part of a new cargo owner-led network sponsored by the Aspen Institute. The firms that signed the agreement hope that the announcement would heighten the feeling of urgency around this problem and increase investor confidence in the promise of zero-carbon shipping.

    Inditex, Amazon, Brooks Running, Patagonia, Tchibo, Unilever, Michelin, Frog Bikes, and Ikea signed the ambitious pact. For the first time, the coZEV agreement will allow firms to build zero-carbon marine transportation corridors, signaling the hope that consumer products producers and merchants will collaborate. Furthermore, the signatories have urged policymakers to begin taking steps toward comprehensive decarbonization. The partnership aims to spur measures that reduce the cost of the zero-carbon transition.

    H&M aims to establish a blockchain rental business in Germany

    H&M

    In partnership with the circular fashion organization Lablaco, fast-fashion retailer H&M will debut the new rental service platform Spin at its Berlin-based shop. The rental service, which will be headquartered at the H&M Mitte Garten, will help customers to reserve and pay for a garment in advance, with a deadline to return it to be washed and readied for the next renter. The blockchain-based service is built on the Internet of Things (IoT) technology, which connects several databases via software and sensors.

    Customers’ smartphones can scan IoT care labels on rental clothing, allowing them to follow product travels and contribute memories to the garments by uploading their pictures. Using Spin, H&M and Lablaco want to investigate the possibilities of this rental style in the digitally cyclical fashion business. The facility will be accessible at the store through the end of the year, with a variety of collections available for rent, the first of which consists of 12 separate pieces. Rental periods range from five to three weeks, with rates ranging from five to nine euros per day.

    Intermix releases Intermix for Good Tour to promote denim recycling

    Intermix

    Intermix, a multi-brand apparel shop located in the United States, has announced the launch of its Intermix for Good Tour, a statewide sustainability program that combines denim recycling with community development via giving back. Intermix is collaborating with Cotton’s Blue Jeans Go GreenTM program to gather cotton denim that can be upcycled to produce anything new as part of its goal to build a more sustainable future. Customers who drop in an old pair of jeans will get a 20% discount on a new pair of jeans, which will be recycled via Cotton’s Blue Jeans Go GreenTM campaign.

    Intermix CEO Jyothi Rao stated that the company is committed to incorporating more eco-friendly practices into its operations and is excited to be collaborating with Cotton Incorporated’s Blue Jeans Go GreenTM denim recycling initiative. They’ve always been recognized for having the greatest pair of jeans, and with this initiative, they’re prolonging the life of those jeans and demonstrating that fashion and sustainability can cohabit. As a major part of their Intermix for Good Tour, they will also perform beach and city cleanups with their retail partners that are devoted to the cause, forming a community working to build a sustainable tomorrow.

    Lenzing extends its denim range with the introduction of matte TencelTM lyocell fibers

    Lenzing

    Lenzing Group, Austria’s largest viscose manufacturer, is increasing its sustainable portfolio for the denim sector with the introduction of matte TENCELTM branded lyocell fibers. The new fiber type was created particularly to scatter light and permanently eliminate shine in denim applications, making indigo-dyed denim textiles more flexible. The use of matte TENCEL Lyocell fibers increases denim design possibilities while reducing the environmental impact of the final fabric and garment, combining practicality and beauty.

    The new fiber type retains all of the comfort features of traditional TENCELTM Lyocell fibers while giving dark indigo dye textiles a deep, lusterless look. Lenzing is pleased to announce the launch of the new matte TENCELTM branded lyocell fibers at the Kingpins Digital Show in collaboration with global mill partners Advance Denim (China), Artistic Fabric Mills Pvt. Ltd (Pakistan), Arvind Limited (India), Kipas Denim (Turkey), KG Denim Limited (India), Panther Denim/ Tat Fung, and Textil Santanderina. The new matte TENCEL Lyocell fibers are entirely traceable thanks to this technology, guaranteeing both brands and customers that the raw materials used are obtained ethically.

    Daniel Kulle has stepped down as CEO of Forever 21

     Forever 21

    According to the article, Kulle announced in an email to his contacts this week that he has resigned from his position and would be “taking some time off to figure out my next step.” Kulle began working for Forever 21 in February 2020, while the store was being acquired out of bankruptcy by Authentic Brands Group, Simon Property Group, and Brookfield Property Partners. He was entrusted with rebuilding the business when it went bankrupt as part of his job.

    Before joining Forever 21, the retail veteran worked for H&M for 25 years, where he worked as a strategic consultant and was a member of a steering committee for three new digital start-ups inside the H&M Group. “We appreciate all that Daniel has contributed throughout his time with the brand and wish him the best in his future endeavors,” said Marc Miller, CEO of SPARC.  In September 2019, Forever 21 filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection, succumbing to the growing demand for online shopping and shifting design trends. The American apparel business eventually agreed to sell its holdings for $81 million to Authentic Brands Group, Simon Property Group, and Brookfield Property Partners.