Category: News

  • Interview With Mr Kutubuddin Ahmed | Chairman , Envoy Textiles Limited

    Interview With Mr Kutubuddin Ahmed | Chairman , Envoy Textiles Limited

    ENVOY TEXTILES LTD. : Denimsandjeans.com

    With over $25 billion of apparel exports , Bangladesh is home to some of the largest apparel groups worldwide . The country has witnessed a steep growth curve in the last 10 years and a large part of this can be particularly attributed to garment exports. The country is aiming to achieve $50 billion in such exports by 2021 on the strength of many of the huge apparel groups which employ hundreds of thousands of people to increasingly ship all kinds of apparel to the retailers worldwide. Many of these groups are run by entrepreneurs who are first generation businessmen – who started their business with almost no capital and built huge corporates on the strength of their grit and determination. Many of these groups can be easily termed as ‘Empires’. A smaller group among them are people who are visionaries , who not only built large businesses but also initiated highest levels of corporate social responsibilities , brought the latest global management principles to their organizations, infused a spirit of innovation and high level of customer service within and outside their organizations.

    One  such  visionary is Mr Kutubuddin Ahmed – the Chairman of Envoy Group from Bangladesh. We had the opportunity to visit his textile plant and had the privilege to talk to him and learn more about the group , his vision and the direction the group is taking. Envoy group is conglomerate of a number of companies built over the last 3 decades and their denim and apparel companies are a part of the same.


    1. Welcome to our website Mr. Kutubuddin. You are a first generation entrepreneur. Please tell us about your journey and how Envoy Group grew in the last couple of decades

    Thank you, Sandeep.

    Mr Kutubuddin Ahmed I started my career in 1984 in readymade garments industry with 44 plain machines and used to manufacture garments only for export purpose.  As I was very much dedicated on keeping my commitments to the buyers in terms of delivery and desired quality, the factory started to earn profit. And eventually, I ended up with a substantial amount of fund to expand the business. At that time, the industry was very new and some companies were not doing well, which gave me an opportunity to buy those factories one after another and to turn them into a profitable concern. Here I was using the experience of one factory to improve and sustain the profitability of the other one.Currently we are producing more than 30 million pieces of readymade garments in a year from those factories.

    At that point, I realized that a huge amount of money was going out in the importation of fabrics which was almost 60 to 65% of the total cost. In addition to the cost, the lead time to import the fabric was also very high. It used to take a lot of effort and at least 60 – 75 days for the fabrics to reach to the garment factory. The buyers usually would not want to wait for such a long time unless they are bound to import from us. Immediately, I realized the demand for textile factory here in Bangladesh.

    Currently we are manufacturing Denim fabric through Envoy Textiles Limited (ETL). We started in the year 2008, with a capacity of 18 million yards of fabric per annum. In the last few years we have gradually increased our production capacity and are currently capable of manufacturing 50 million yards of denim per annum. To have better controls in the manufacturing process we are in the process of setting up a spinning mill with a capacity of 50 Tons Per day. This will make us a composite textile group starting from Cotton to Readymade Garments.

    This has been possible with a very professional blend of man and machinery. We have installed state-of-the-art technology and a team of dedicated professionals to help us grow.Our focus areas now are to improve efficiencies, consistent product quality and new product development.

    In addition to ETL,more than 32 other business enterprises are running under my leadership in the name of ‘ENVOY GROUP’ & ‘SHELTECH GROUP’. Nowadays, these two groups are emerging as most thriving conglomerate in Bangladesh comprising of various concerns in the industry of Readymade Garments, Textile, Freight Forwarding, Trading, Consumer Product, and in Real Estate, Construction, Brokerage House, Security/Protection Services, Hospitality & Airlines (Cargo &Passenger).


    2. Being a vertical integrated unit with fabrics as well as garments, do you think it gives you a great leverage with the buyers?

    As a Textile Group, we offer multiple options to our valued customers. They can work with us as a fully vertical unit. They also have the option of either utilizing our Denim (Textile) facility or Garmenting facility.

    In addition to conventional integration, we are also moving toward virtual vertical integration. For instance, we have made a treaty with a factory at Bangladesh for buying fabric only from us to manufacture jeans for globally renowned brands, and we are working to build more network like this to make our business sustainable and integrated.


     

     

    3. I saw some very unique initiatives and facilities for your workers. Can you tell us more about them?

    Yes, but first of all, I must let you know that we do not use the term ‘worker’ – the total staff of ETL is like a family and it is often called as ‘ETL Family’ (Envoy Textiles Family)! . Of course they have different roles to play, but, at the end of day, we all have a common target and that is ‘the development of the organization’.

    ETL is a company, which is more of ‘people’ oriented, and thus ‘Facilities for People’ or CSR (Corporate Social Responsibilities) is not an extended program at the ETL, rather it is one of the core value that we are nurturing in every possible manner.

    Some of the unique initiatives for the ETL family include Birthday Celebrations of every employee with balloons, whistles and presents; Wedding Gift; Gifts for New Born; Assistance for Children Wedding, Prize bond for good performers; 3D Movie Theatre; Medical Assistance for Self & Family; Recognition for service of more than 10 years; Sports Round the Year, Complimentary Snacks; Award for Best Healthy Room at Dormitory; Cultural Show & Competitions; Eid Gift Hamper; Salary Transfer before 1st day of the month; Profit Sharing; Participation Committee; Scholarship Scheme. 24 Hour Ambulance; Gymnasium; 24 Hour Convenient Shop (Self Service); Computer KIOSKs accessible by all; Complimentary Computer Courses, including Trainer’s Training Allowances, Accommodation; Emergency In-House Medical Center; Chef Service; Food Subsidy; In-House Bakery; ATM & Mobile Banking; Provident Fund; In-House Mosjid,  Arabic Training; etc..

    In addition to the welfare of staff, ETL also extends its CSR activity for the external community as well with initiatives like: Pediatric ICU for Burn Victims (At Dhaka Medical College Hospital); Art Competition for neighboring children; Effluent Treatment Plant; Priority Appointment for Physically Challenged Persons; Salary Payment for other factory’s fire victims (Tazreen Fashions, through BGMEA), Donation to Rana Plaza; Salary Continuation Even after closing; Financial Assistance for Autistic Children; etc.

    It will bring a great happiness to us if any of these functions can bring inspiration to other fellow manufacturer, that’s how we look at our CSR program!


     

    4. Eco Sustainability is getting more important for the textile – specially denim world. How is your company focusing this important aspect of business?

    For us Eco sustainability is as important as our denims. We believe that it has to go hand in hand. Our philosophy is to give it back to the nature so that the next generation can survive.

    Some of the steps that have been taken by us in this direction include:

    • Putting up a fully equipped Effluent Treatment Plant.
    • Building a comprehensive system for Rainwater Harvesting
    • Building a lake inside the factory premises
    • Using captive power from gas
    • We have been recognized with ISO 9001:14000 standard for environmental management system.

    We are currently working for LEED Certification and expecting to get that soon.

    We are also in the process to establish an eco-park within the factory premises. We are planning to plant 2,000 trees where live animals will roam around. (license from government is under process).

    Envoy Textiles Eco Initiative

    20150611_110209

     


    5. Please do tell us about your latest collection and product that Envoy is offering to its customers.

    There are many innovative and state-of-the-art products in the market from ETL, like Knit Look denim; Super Stretch Denims, etc. In this season we have included special performance Denims like Thermolite and Coolmax. We will also be showcasing blends like Modal, Tencil & Rayon in Denims.

    In addition to those, our upcoming products also includes Specialized Handloom Products, Selvedge Denim, etc.A lot more are also evolving in our Research & Development Division and are in the process to be offered to our customers periodically.

    We are also focusing to provide a value added service to our customers by setting up a full-fledged Physical and Chemical Laboratory. We have already got our lab accreditation by Levi’s. Also we are currently in the process to get lab accreditations from few other global retailers.

     


    6. Bangladesh is becoming very important for denim apparel. It is already the largest exporter of denim apparel to EU. How do you think your country would further develop this industry in the coming years and position itself in the world market.

    Bangladesh already has a good foot hold in the Readymade Garments Industry exporting approximately 25 billion dollar worth of products annually. Due to the development of our textiles mills, the industry is able to offer a better lead time, improved R&D and availability of skilled workforce.

    In order to further consolidate the country’s position, we should focus on improving our Technical know-how, invest in Research & Development for improving our product mix and install state of the art technology. Also need to focus on improving a the washing capabilities

     

     

     

     


    7. What are your future plan of growth and how do you plan to serve your customers better? (if possible, mention some customer names).

     

     

    Our future plan includes but is not limited to –Adding Spinning by April 2016 (Backward Linkage) ,Manufacturing of Twill fabric , Manufacturing of Yarn Dyed fabrics etc. And, we plan to serve our customers through offering Premium Products ,State-of-the-art Laboratory Facility and Finest Customer Service . Some of our Major Customers are LEVI’S , VF Corporation, Inditex Group , Tema Turkiye, Marks and Spencer, NEXT, Carrefour, Gymboree ,Walmart , TCP etc

     


     

    We could capture images from some of the important areas of the ETL which showed how the ETL family was really built up as a strongly knit unit. The facilities for all employees included Gyms, Movie theatres, Computer kiosks and much more. Employees could be seen coming to the gym at different times during the day to do workouts.

     ETL Gym

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    Computer kiosks help employees at all levels to be computer aware.

    Computer Kiosks ETL

    They can even check all particulars about their salary online on these kiosks.

    20150611_104004
    One interesting thing was the very active promotion of sports competition within the ETL family. There are various teams under which employees are encouraged to compete for different sports activities throughout the year .

    Sports Groups at ETL

    Boat racing in ETL lake
    One very unique idea was setting up a self service shop. There is no attendant in this shop which has various items of daily use including bakery, eatables , drinks, ice creams etc. Anyone taking something from here has to drop the money for the equivalent amount in the box without anyone watching it. This shop is never monitored and I came to know that the shop never had collection short of the value of items taken . This speaks volumes about the management confidence in their employees and they responding to it to their best.

    20150611_103354
    The worker’s quarters at ETL seemed very high quality, clean and built well.

    Worker's Quarters at ETL

    A few pics from their plant.

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    20150611_094412

    Indigo yarn coning facility

    More info about the Envoy group can be had through this email

    .

  • Kapital Fall Winter 2015 Collection

    Kapital Fall Winter 2015 Collection

    Further to previous looks from Kapital for Fall’15 , the brand brings out some new looks from their stable directed at 30 something generation. Packed with signature Kapital looks, layered textures and textiles and quirky personality that the brand is known for , the  autumn assortment offered by designer Kiro Hirata has new takes on timeless classics like patchworks, classic coats, military , French workwear etc. The collection sees  Thunderbird style jackets and other 70s pieces like the smiley sleeve trucker. Patchwork, embroidery and ‘tear – distress’ weave into with layering and texturing.

     

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015

    Kapital Fall Winter Collection 2015


  • Indigo Turtles- Helping Baby Sea Turtles with their First Steps…

    Indigo Turtles- Helping Baby Sea Turtles with their First Steps…

    Indigo Turtles- Helping Baby Sea Turtles with their First Steps

    Mavi has teamed up with ORTA to protect endangered sea turtles by supporting the Ecological Research Society’s (EKAD) Indigo Turtles project.Mavi, designer of contemporary denim styles inspired by the Mediterranean spirit, and Orta Anadolu, developer of innovative denim fabrics – both from Turkey – have joined forces to unite sea turtles – also called Indigo Turtles because of their color-  with their natural habitat.

    Indigo Turtles- Helping Baby Sea Turtles with their First Steps denimsandjeans.com

    The Indigo Turtles project aims to protect two species of sea turtles native to the Mediterranean, Caretta caretta and Chelonia mydas, each of which has been navigating the earth for over a hundred million years. The project kicked off last year, helping fifteen thousand hatchling turtles reach the relative safety of the sea. Facing many difficulties, only forty percent of hatchling turtles reach the water and only one in a thousand survive there after. The Indigo Turtles project not only offers the little turtles hands-on help in the field, but also utilizes its  network to raise awareness about the problem and its potential solutions.

    Along with hundreds of university volunteers, customers and followers, Mavi and ORTA employees join EKAD’s efforts in Belek, near Antalya/Turkey, from June to September. Volunteers from around the world help hatchlings climb out of their nests and begin their journey towards the open ocean.

    Indigo Turtles- Helping Baby Sea Turtles with their First Steps denimsandjeans.com

    Indigo Turtles- Helping Baby Sea Turtles with their First Steps denimsandjeans.com

    Indigo Turtles- Helping Baby Sea Turtles with their First Steps denimsandjeans.com

    Indigo Turtles- Helping Baby Sea Turtles with their First Steps denimsandjeans.com

    Indigo Turtles- Helping Baby Sea Turtles with their First Steps denimsandjeans.com

    One T-shirt, ten sea turtles!

    Mavi has also created a special t-shirt for supporting this activity. Every purchase of a Mavi Indigo Turtle t-shirt can possibly safeguard the lives of ten baby sea turtles and makes a contribution to the Mediterranean basin. The t-shirts will generate resources to protect fifteen thousand hatchlings from four hundred nests. Indigo Turtles T-shirts are available online in Mavi USA

    Indigo Turtles- Helping Baby Sea Turtles with their First Steps denimsandjeans.com

    Some Facts On Indigo Turtles

    • The Ecological Research Society (EKAD) was established by academics, most of whom are specialists on biodiversity and natural conservation
    • The sea turtles have great importance for the Mediterranean’s marine and shoreline ecosystems, and a large proportion of Mediterranean sea turtle’s nesting grounds are on Turkey’s beaches
    • It takes fifteen years for a turtle to reach reproductive maturity. Providing a secure environment for them to mature in is vital for the Mediterranean’s ecology
    • In a secure environment, sea turtles live an average of sixty years.
    • Turtles spend most of their lives at sea. Only female sea turtles return to the beaches where they hatched to dig nests and lay eggs
    • As most of their time is spent at feeding sites and on over-wintering migration, sea turtles generally nest only once every three years
    • On average, a female sea turtle lays three thousand two hundred eggs and builds forty nests in her lifetime
  • Famous Denim Books Worldwide

    Famous Denim Books Worldwide

    Denim is wihout doubt the most worn fabric worldwide . A number of books try to chronicle the journey of denim through over a century of development. In this report , we bring out the details of some of the coolest and most interesting denim books that are found around the world. Each of them explores different aspects of the high fashion denim industry – whether it is the indigo dyeing, manufacturing and styling, effect of and on fashion and much more   . Check out the list below and get denimified !

    Indigo: The Color that Changed the World

     

    By Catherine Legrand (Author) | Price : $41.38

    The book explores varying dying methods and the human story behind the colour, taking the reader on a journey through Japan, China, India, Africa, Central America, Laos and Vietnam to offer a fascinating study of old world practices and the history of this color. Hundreds of beautiful photographs show items, ranging from doors to quilts to turbans and the stained hands and many faces of the makers behind them, to exemplify why Indigo has continued inspiring us throughout the ages. Legrand features Austrian dyer Josef Foo’s stunning art of wood-block printing Indigo, which show cases the colour’s vitality when contrasted with white and even shows us how to make the dye ourselves at home using lead sugar, powdered gold and blue vitriol.

    Denimsandjeans.com Indigo: The Color that Changed the WorldDenimsandjeans.com Indigo: The Color that Changed the World

    The book explores the production of indigo textiles throughout America, China, India, Africa, Central Asia, Japan, Laos, and Vietnam. It features more than 500 color photographs and is completed by specially commissioned drawings that provide close-ups of patterns and cloths.In each of the areas explored by Legrand, the author finds similar methods for cultivation, pigment extraction and dying methods, although the final products range from turbans to quilts depending of the textile needs of the area. Hundreds of color photographs serve to illustrate the process as well as the variety of indigo application. More at…..


    DETAILS – A LIFE WITH DENIM

    By Piero Turk | Price $31.89

    This one is for all the denimheads out there. Piero Turk dedicated a significant part of his life to denim, having worked in the denim industry for quite some years. With that experience he decided to start a new brand titled Manic Monkey. He also is the author of this awesome book titled: “Details: A Life With Denim”. This new book offers around 300 images of denim, jeans and more stuff related to the blue gold.

    Denimsandjean.com "Denim Book : A Life With Denim Details Book"Denimsandjean.com "Denim Book : A Life With Denim Details Book" Denimsandjean.com "Denim Book : A Life With Denim Details Book"

    Then after working many years together with Adriano Goldschmied for many of the most jeans and fashion brands around the world, in year 2000 I opened my own design studio. During the last 15 years I did work for many top level denim brands. EDWIN, BIG STAR, MUSTANG, AG, SEVEN, GUESSamong others and for fashion brands like SPORTMAX, SEE by CHLOE and others helping them to develop their jeans line. More at…

    Denim Dudes: Street Style . Vintage . Workwear .Obsession

    By Amy Leverton | Price : £14.86

    Denim Dudes is a street style book with a difference. This richly illustrated title showcases over 80 metalheads punks, indie kids, rockabillies, bikers, hipsters, geeks, and other enthusiasts who are obsessed with denim. Written by Amy Leverton (ex-denim editor WGSN) The book is split into three parts: US, Europe and Japan & Australia. How would you broadly describe the differences in denim styles between these place.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Denim Dudes: Street Style . Vintage . Workwear .Obsession"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Denim Dudes: Street Style . Vintage . Workwear .Obsession"

     More at…..


    Indigo: Egyptian Mummies to Blue Jeans

    by Jenny Balfour-Paul | £18.94

    Indigo tells the compelling and comprehensive story of the world’s oldest, most magical, and best-loved dye.

    “All those working with indigo or merely interested in the cultural history of that dye must read this book.”—Textile Forum.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Indigo: Egyptian Mummies to Blue Jeans"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Indigo: Egyptian Mummies to Blue Jeans"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Indigo: Egyptian Mummies to Blue Jeans"

    The book covers: Indigo’s history, dating to ancient times The botanical sources of indigo, including woad , Uses of indigo in traditional medicine and religious practices The chemistry of indigo and the technology used to extract it Production and dyeing methods The commercial indigo industry, past and present The health consequences of making indigo Modern and future applications of indigo Indigo’s continuing appeal and the iconic blue jean.Produced from plants by a process akin to alchemy, indigo has a unique chemistry that renders it compatible with all natural fibres. From the time of the ancient Egyptians it made an incredible impact worldwide as the world’s only source of blue of every hue, and was also indispensable for creating a glorious range of colors when combined with other natural dyes. More at….


    Denim: An American Story (Schiffer Book)

    By David Little | Price : $24.58

    Journey through the history of jeans, from their invention during the Gold Rush through the turbulent eras that preceded the 21st Century. Watch as denim slacks help Americans define themselves, whether that definition is strong, unpretentious, pretentious, informal, comfortable, classless, haute couture, hard-working, or reliable.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Denim: An American Story (Schiffer Book)"

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Denim: An American Story (Schiffer Book)"

    Also, revisit the craze for vintage blue jeans, when faded and worn fueled a frenzy of global buying. Artful photography of denim as seen on bodies, in retail stores, and in the flea markets of America, add to the thoughtful essays, making this a iconic book certain to be treasured in fashion circles for decades.In this book many denim stories are written and there are many pictures about denim, Levi’s vintage jeans, advertisement of Levi’s, Lee, Blue Bell(Wrangler),cow boy jeans, biker jeans, worker jeans, etc.. More at


    True Fit – A Collected History of Denim

    By Viktor Fredbäck and Rickard Eklund | Price – $70

    True Fit A Collected History of Denim by Viktor Fredback. This is an incredible book that shows various historical pieces of denim throughout the years. The book is incredible photographed by photographer Fredrik Ottosson.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : True Fit – A Collected History of Denim"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : True Fit – A Collected History of Denim" Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : True Fit – A Collected History of Denim"

    The book, True Fit – A Collected History of Denim, is the story of jeans’ genesis and evolution. They  present at the birth of the garment in the mid-1870s and follow its evolution a hundred years forward in time. The account of the history of jeans also reveals that the garment makes up an integral part of American heritage. Viktor Fredbäck is a Swedish denim collector who travels to old silver mines in the Nevada desert in hopes of digging up historic jeans from the 1800’s . More at…


    Levi Strauss & Co. -Images of America

    By Lynn Downey | Price – $17.93

    Detailing a story of Levi’s Strauss , the book explains how Levi Strauss & Co. started with imported clothing, bedding, and notions to supply the many small stores serving the Gold Rush and the expanding American West. By 1873, he and partner Jacob Davis invented the very first blue jeans, which were soon worn by working men from Los Angeles to Laramie.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Levi Strauss & Co. (CA) (Images of America)"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Levi Strauss & Co. (CA) (Images of America)"

    Strauss parlayed his business acumen into social progress by giving back to his community and embedding a company culture committed to positively impacting society. In this spirit, the Levi Strauss Foundation was created after World War II, formalizing the philanthropic work started by Strauss himself a century earlier. All the while, the company has evolved with successive generations of family owners, expanding product lines to meet the ever-changing needs of consumers around the world. More at…..


    Fades of Indigo – Denimbook Vol. II

    By Livid Jeans and Ole A. Ekker

    Norwegian-based jeans brand Livid Jeans and Norwegian photographer Ole A. Ekker collaborate once again on the second edition of their ongoing project, Denim book.

    Denimsandjeand.com "Denim Book : Fades of Indigo - Denimbook Vol. II"Denimsandjeand.com "Denim Book : Fades of Indigo - Denimbook Vol. II"

    This is the second issue of Fades Of Indigo. A collaborative piece between Norwegian photograper Ole A. Ekker and the Norwegian based jeansbrand Livid Jeans. Made to capture the strong bonds between people and denim and tell their stories through a variety of pictures. One single craft is often used only as a supplement to the other. Similarities between crafts are common, but the connection not always seen. There is great beauty in combining crafts because they’re able to bring forth what may be left unsaid when standing alone. Through authentic, honest and passionate work our cooperation aims to focus on artisanal aspects in both their crafts.


    We Love: “My Rugged 211″

    By Minoru Onozato

    The book was  put together by editor in chief of Rugged Magazine, Minoru Onozato. He describes in the bi-lingual introduction:

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : We Love: “My Rugged 211″"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : We Love: “My Rugged 211″"

    The book lovingly describes each item and points out its special highlights and features. It’s an amazing insight into the eye of a knowledgeable collector who knows classic menswear apparel inside and out. So if you want to learn, he is the master to teach you! Classical rugged fashion is somewhat timeless yet it can be enriched with the essence of military wear, sport fashion, outdoor fashion, workwear, native fashion, etc. For their the pursuit of rugged fashion, or pursuit of “unfashionable fashion” has flourished their  life and sometimes given them great ideas and thoughts in their publishing and film making career. More at…..


    Denim Book: The 501XXA-Collection Of Vintage Jeans

    By Yutaka Fujihara

    A collection of vintage jeans. The book is a homage to Levi’s Jeans from 1890 till 1966. The book highlights 51 unique and rare pair of jeans. Made by Levi’s expert @yuttan1977 from Japan. Bravo Yutaka for this great document!The book contains 200 pages with full colour pictures and text in Japanese and English language.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book: The 501XXA-Collection Of Vintage Jeans "Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book: The 501XXA-Collection Of Vintage Jeans "

    The book contains 200 pages with full colour pictures and text in Japanese and English language.The 501XX – A collection of vintage jeans. The book is a sort of homage to Levi’s Jeans as it captures vintage Big E jeans from 1890 till 1966. The book shows 51 unique and rare examples which are in hands of Japanese Levi’s Jeans collectors. It’s a beautiful book and a great learning tool of the 501XX; it’s so lovely to see some of the best examples the world has to offer to learn first-hand about this amazing piece of denim history. More at…..


    Bluemasters, Innovation in Denim – The Book

    By Fabiana Giacomotti | Price : €60.00

    The story of both the past and, above all,    the future of denim, through the innovations and the voices of those who “do” denim. This book is published by ISKO Denim of Turkey.

    Just call them the “Bluemasters”. These are the men and women who have brought innova­tion to denim, be it in production and manufacture, creativity, retailing or communications, rendering the pair of jeans the most iconic, sought-after garment on the planet. From the cotton boll to the catwalk, from dyeing to washing, from the shop window to the mass media, behind all the most high-fashion jeans there usually lurks one of these people.

    These are the people, each in their own special way a true master of denim, to whom this book Bluemasters, Innovation in Denim, is dedicated, weaving together some of today’s most fascinating stories all of them inspired by the most famous blue fabric on the planet.

    Written by Fabiana Giacomotti, fashion guru and head of Fashion and Costume Studies at Rome’s Sapienza University, published by the Menabò Group, this volume fulfills the dream of Iskoâ„¢, shared by Archroma, to create a space in which to delve into the cultural currents, the ebbs and flows that move the world of denim, and this book is that space. Naturally this no encyclopedia, since it would be impossible for a single volume to cover every last detail of such a tumultuous sector, it should rather been seen as a catalyst.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Bluemasters, Innovation in Denim - The Book"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Bluemasters, Innovation in Denim - The Book"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Bluemasters, Innovation in Denim - The Book"

    The book’s two hundred large-format pages are divided into two parts. The first is a series of interviews profiling the Bluemasters, presented in alphabetical order, photographed at work in their office, at the work bench, in the laundry or in the laboratory.

    The second, more technical part, traces the landmarks in the evolution of denim production, with a special focus on eco-friendly cotton growing and such processes as dyeing, washing and finishing, providing a wealth of useful information and insight into all the backstage work that goes into a pair of jeans. More at…..


    Denim Style by Horst A. Friedrichs

    By Horst A. Friedrichs | Price : £18.94

    Renowned photographer Horst. A Friedrichs took to the streets of London to snap the aficionados, retailers and makers of the contemporary denim scene. In an introduction written by Kelly Dawson of Dawson Denim, she heralds this pictorial work as “the rite of passage for the Denimhead.” The beautifully curated collection of photographs is complete with a mini dictionary at the back, making it a perfect gift for the denim-fan in your life.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Denim Style by Horst A. Friedrichs"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Denim Style by Horst A. Friedrichs"

    This book takes in all aspects of the thriving denim culture, whose followers can be obsessive about how the denim is woven, the old shuttle looms that weave it, the people who weave it, and the skills and techniques they have and use. Pages of gorgeous photographs of denim wear will inspire today’s style conscious and trendspotters alike. More at…..


    Global Denim

    By Daniel Miller (Editor), Sophie Woodward (Editor) | Price : £21.99

    On any given day nearly half the world’s population is wearing blue jeans. This is entirely extraordinary. Yet there has never been a serious attempt to understand the causes, nature and consequences of denim as ‘the’ global garment of our world. This book takes up that challenge with gusto. It gives clear, if surprising, explanations for why this is the case, challenging the accepted history of jeans and showing why the reasons cannot be commercial. While discussing the consequences of denim at the global level, the book consists of some exemplary studies by anthropologists of what blue jeans mean in a variety of local situations. These range from the discussion of hip-hop jeans in Germany, denim and sex in Milan through to the connection between denim and recycling in the US. But through all these intensively researched ethnographies of local denim we build our understanding of the most curious of all features of blue jeans – the rise of global denim.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Global Denim" Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Global Denim"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Global Denim"

    More at…..


    A Denim Story: Inspirations from Bellbottoms to Boyfriends

    By Emily Current, Meritt Elliott and Hilary Walsh | US Price: $32.50

    Emily Current and Meritt Elliott have been styling together for more than a decade and are known for the popular denim brand Current/Elliott. Hilary Walsh is a fashion and portrait photographer who has been featured in many advertisements and publications such as Vogue, Interview, and Elle.

    Emily Current and Meritt Elliott, the original creators of Current/Elliott, enter the next chapter of their denim career with the release of their book, A Denim Story: Inspirations from Bellbottoms to Boyfriends.

    This style bible is a chic and sexy look at the myriad possibilities of blue jeans, the classic and ever-evolving fashion essential. Blue jeans are an iconic part of American culture. And, like the American dream, denim is constantly reinventing itself. A Denim Storyshowcases timeless images of blue jean style. Featuring such icons as Marilyn Monroe, Patti Smith, Jane Birkin, and Kate Moss, as well as dreamy inspiration boards from the authors’ own work, this volume is full of ideas and inspirations. A pair of jeans always makes a statement, whether they are tight and purposeful or loose and frayed. Blue jeans can embody dreamy, girlish innocence or the best of boyishness, as when worn two sizes too big, low on the hips, and rolled up at the ankle.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : A Denim Story: Inspirations from Bellbottoms to Boyfriends"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : A Denim Story: Inspirations from Bellbottoms to Boyfriends"

     More at……


    Mottainai: The Fabric of Life Lessons in Frugality from Traditional Japan

    By Rabin Wallinter ,Sasha | Price : $30.00 USD

    Catalog to the exhibition Mottainai: The Fabric of Life, Lessons in Frugality from Traditional Japan at the Portland Japanese Garden, November 4 – 27, 2011

    This exhibition of antique Japanese folk textiles from the Meiji period (1868-1912) is comprised of selections from the private collections of Stephen Szczepanek (suh-PAN-ecks) of Sri in Brooklyn and Kei Kawasaki of Gallery Kei in Kyoto. The exhibition demonstrates the remarkable ability of the Japanese to not only make do with the very little they had, but to make art with it.For generations before the “Economic Miracle” took place in the decades following World War II, Japan was a poor country. People recycled everything. Nothing was wasted, and the word “mottainai” (waste nothing!) was a ubiquitous exclamation used by every frugal parent to warn children about wasting a bite of food or a scrap of cloth or paper.

    The exhibition represents a wide variety of traditional textile making and decorating techniques, including sashiko stitching, bast fiber weaving and dyeing, and patchwork quilting, the latter referred to as boro.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Mottainai: The Fabric of Life Lessons in Frugality from Traditional Japan"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Mottainai: The Fabric of Life Lessons in Frugality from Traditional Japan"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Mottainai: The Fabric of Life Lessons in Frugality from Traditional Japan"

    “Boro is a term now widely recognized that describes these patched and mended fabrics,” said Stephen, who is clearly awed by the ingenuity and beauty of these pieces and has written articles for Selvedge, Hali, and Cover magazine about them. Hanging like abstract art on the walls of his Brooklyn loft are a boro indigo futon cover and a boro yogi, or sleeping kimono. He contends that these were never intended as works of art, though collectors from New York to Paris now seek out these modest garments for the remnants of the spirit of rural Japan they see in them. “What I love,” Stephen says, “is that there is so much history in every piece.”

    His small Brooklyn loft is both show room and home to Stephen, whose Sri has been featured in the New York Times as a fascinating destination for those who love the real thing. According to one New York Times article (2007): “A resident of Brooklyn for the past 22 years, Stephen finds sanctuary in the cloth of another culture, which allows him to travel to a faraway time and place without having to leave home (although he does go to Japan on buying trips twice a year, visiting dealers and temple markets in Kyoto).” More at…..


    Denim: From Cowboys to Catwalks: A Visual History of the World’s Most Legendary Fabric

    By Graham Marsh (Author), Paul Trynka (Author), June Marsh (Editor)| Price : £29.98

    It tells how the first pair of jeans came about and documents the material’s rise from humble beginnings as workwear in 19th-century America, through its love affair with 1940s Hollywood and its adoption by a rebellious generation of teenagers in the 1950s, right up to its emergence as a high-fashion fabric in the 1990s. The authors have dug deep into the archives to unearth many rare, previously unpublished pictures ranging from archive photographs from the early days when brands such as Levi’s Lee and Wrangler were first establishing themselves to portraits displaying the gritty glamour of denim-clad icons such as Robert Mitchum, Marilyn Monroe and Chet Baker.

     Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Denim: From Cowboys to Catwalks: A Visual History of the World's Most Legendary Fabric"

    It features rare pictures of icons wearing denim, like Marilyn Monroe and Steve McQueen, plus specially commissioned photos of rare and classic garments from the 1880s to the present day. It is complete with a glossary and a guide to valuable vintage items. More at…..


    Indigo: In Search of the Colour that Seduced the World

    By Catherine E. McKinley (Author) | Price : £7.19

    For almost five millennia, indigo – a blue pigment obtained from the small green leaf of a parasitic shrub – has been at the centre of turbulent human encounters, prized by slave traders, religious figures and the fashion world. “Indigo” is the story of this precious dye and its ancient heritage: its relationship to slavery as the ‘hidden half’ of the transatlantic slave trade, its profound influence on fashion, and its spiritual significance. It is a story brimming with electrifying tales of those who shaped the course of colonial history and world economy.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : Indigo: In Search of the Colour that Seduced the World"

    But this is also the story of a personal quest: McKinley’s ancestors include a clan of Scots who wore indigo tartan, several generations of Jewish ‘rag traders’ and Massachusetts textile factory owners, and African slaves who were traded along the same Saharan routes. Her journey takes her to nine West African countries and is resplendent with powerful lessons of heritage and history. More at…..


    Shibori : For Textile Artists

    By  Janice Ganner (Author) | Price : £18.99

    • Shibori-dyed fabrics continue to be popular and used in clothes, home furnishings, etc.
    • Will appeal to quilters, embroiderers, and textile artists.
    • Clear, step-by-step instructions and diagrams.
    • Covers many different techniques.
    • Shows finished shibori pieces and gives advice on incorporating shibori textiles into quilted and embroidered work

    Denimsjeans.com "Denim Book : Shibori : For Textile Artists"Denimsjeans.com "Denim Book : Shibori : For Textile Artists"Denimsjeans.com "Denim Book : Shibori : For Textile Artists"

    Commonly associated with Japan, it is also used in Africa, India and South America. Shibori is the Japanese term (from the word ‘to squeeze or wring’), for the dye-resist technique of binding, clamping or gathering the cloth so that the dye cannot reach certain parts. Author Janice Gunner’s book is aimed at quilters, embroiderers and textile artists who not only want to master the techniques of shibori but also find ways of using the fabric once created for a range of textile techniques including quilting and embroidery. More at…..


    A Handbook of Indigo Dyeing

    By Vivien Prideaux | Price : £13.48

    Beautiful pictures of wonderful dyed fabrics used in a variety of designs accompany detailed advice on the materials required, preparing the fabric and the dyeing methods. Using Shibori techniques – folding, pleating, clamping, stitching and pole wrapping, the author illustrates all the different stages, using clear step-by-step photographs and easy-to-follow text. A stunning sequence of inspirational projects have been specially chosen to develop skills and build confidence, with instructions on how to make a tea cosy, a jacket, a silk scarf and more.

    Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : A Handbook of Indigo Dyeing"Denimsandjeans.com "Denim Book : A Handbook of Indigo Dyeing"

     

     

  • Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook

    Kansas City (US) based  BALDWIN brings out Holiday 2015 Look Book including premium selvage denim, knitwear, outerwear, sweaters and hoodies for the up and coming collection.Some styles  are composed of stretch selvage while an exclusive  Nolan Drawstring Pant in Heather Grey Herringbone is made from boiled . Straight pajama cut works out well in selvedges ,  green cast denim in relaxed fit adds to the looks while leather, wool and other accompaniments add to the cool visuals of the modern casual wardrobe.

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Baldwin Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

  • Frame Denim Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook

    Frame Denim Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook

    The new Fall Winter 2015 denim collection of Frame Denim, designed by co-founders Jens Grede and Erik Torstensson, see’s them bringing a gorgeous Autumn colour palette to the table, mixing browns and creams with classic shades of denim blue which are just so inviting. The designers of Frame Denim , for their Fall Winter 2015 collection,  were intent on it being “a sportswear collection with its heart in denim for fall”. They bring out the  cinematic style of 70s , designing slinky Henleys, a belted shirt dress, boyish sweaters and a gorgeous pair of suede bell-bottoms, along with a suede wrap trench.

    Cool styles from the collection were a denim mini skirt with a buttoned closure , dark washed denim overalls and of course we see flares now in most collections. Denim overalls had  But on the whole the collection was subdued and  missing the distressing, patchworks and other elements.

     

    Frame Denim Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook denimsandjeans.com

    Frame Denim Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook denimsandjeans.com

    Frame Denim Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook denimsandjeans.com

    Frame Denim Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook denimsandjeans.com

    Frame Denim Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook denimsandjeans.com

    Frame Denim Fall Winter 2015 Lookbook denimsandjeans.com

  • Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    What is Boro? Traditionally, it’s mending ragged textiles with 19th century, indigo died, hand-loomed, natural fibers such as cotton or hemp.  Boro is a Japanese word meaning “tattered rags” and it’s the term frequently used to describe lovingly patched and repaired cotton bedding and clothing, used much longer than the normal expected life cycle. Like early North American patchwork quilts, boro textiles revealed much about the Japanese family’s living standards and the nature of the economy of their time.Once clothing was made, it would be maintained throughout the owner’s lifetime, or perhaps even longer. Cotton was scarce in Japan, but hemp was abundant.  Hemp would be homespun and woven into beautiful patterns. Cotton could be woven through the hemp fabrics to make it warmer. The diversity of patches on any given piece is a veritable encyclopedia of hand loomed cotton indigo from old Japan. In most cases, the beautiful arrangement of patches and mending stitches is borne of necessity and happenstance, and was not planned by the maker.

    Boro was born of forgotten values of ‘mottainai’ or ‘too good to waste’. An idea dangerously lacking in the modern consumer lifestyle.When creating your Boro think, messy is best and rough is lovely. Boro is the clothing that was worn by peasants, merchants or artisans in Japan from Edo up to early Showa (17th – early 19th century). In feudal times, the majority were peasant farmers. Not everyone could afford the lavish silk kimono and vivid obi worn by the aristocracy. Clothes were crafted from cheaper materials, but were no less beautiful than those worn by the upper classes.
    Boro art has been influencing the modern denim distressing looks. Only the Japanese could make something that literally translates to “tattered rags” so upscale and luxurious.It easy to recognize something that has been mended in this style; usually in indigo, multiple patches and fabrics of the same color or hue are woven together, creating a garment that looks old and patched together, but beautifully handcrafted at the same time.

    We think its in place to have some cool indigo looks and different styles from this unique craft for our denim aficionado readers !

    Handmade Japanese Indigo Boro Scarf Denim Sashiko Japan

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    Boro Scarf | Vintage Japanese Aizome Indigo Cotton With Sashiko

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    Found on etsy.com

    Intricate Boro Repairing

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    Found on stylesight.com

    Hishizashi Monpe Pants

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric   The beauty of boro fabric is the highly sophisticated sewing and  weaving techniques used by the women who made it.  For peasant   families, each garment would last long enough to be passed down through generations. Daily use would require frequent repair.The pattern woven into the fabric of these trousers is known as hishizashi. Women would invent their own designs and compete with friends.

    An interesting item is the DONJA below .It is a very large, and extremely heavy sleeping coat. Today, we might think this inappropriate, but parents and children would sleep naked together inside it. Wrapped in layer upon layer of boro scraps and wadding, shared body heat would protect them from the dangerously cold winter.

    Donja

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    Source furugistarjapan.wordpress.com

    The BODOKO  (below) is translated as ‘life-cloth’. It was actually  a bed sheet. However, it was also used when giving birth. Women would hang from ropes fastened to the ceiling and kneel on the bodoko. Layers of rags worn by ancestors would be the first thing the baby would touch.

    Bodoko

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    Some more cool Boros.

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    Found on womanwithwingsblog.blogspot.com

    Japanese Indigo Boro (below) is a rare boro and was composed in 1900 but made of earlier fragments of Shibori, Katazome and Kasuri.

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    Found on estherfitzgerald.com

    There is no end to the Boro designs that we like . Here are some more boro visuals .

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

    Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

  • The 10 Biggest Clothing Companies In The US

    The 10 Biggest Clothing Companies In The US

    Apparel brands have cut across the global borders and have reached to billion of people across the world. From fashion to sports to casual wear, these apparel brands have a huge brand equity. Here is a list of the top 10 apparel companies in the USA in 2014. The list has been determined using net revenue as a parameter.

    THE 10 BIGGEST U.S. APPAREL COMPANIES 2014

    Rank

    Name of Company

    Annual Revenue (In Billion)

    1

    Nike

    $30.60

    2

    Ralph Lauren

    $7.60

    3

    Old Navy

    $6.60

    4

    Gap

    $6.20

    5

    Levi Strauss & Co.

    $4.80

    6

    Michael Kors

    $4.40

    7

    Coach

    $4.30

    8

    Tommy Hilfiger

    $3.60

    9

    American Eagle

    $3.30

    10

    Under Armour

    $3.10

     

    Annual Revenue

     

    1. Nike:

    Nike

    NIKE, Inc. (NIKE), incorporated on September 8, 1969, is engaged in design, development, marketing and selling of athletic footwear, apparel, equipment, accessories and services. NIKE is a seller of athletic footwear and athletic apparel across the world. The Company sells its products to retail accounts, through NIKE owned retail stores and internet websites and through distributors and licensees across the world. Nike Is the Largest Apparel Company in the U.S. by a Huge Margin. Nike, Inc. is the world’s largest supplier and manufacturer of athletic shoes, apparel and other sports equipment. The company employed about 56,500 people worldwide and in 2014, Nike’srevenue amounted to about  US$30.60 billion .

    Annual revenue: $30.60 billion

    NIKE, Inc. (NIKE) : Denimsandjeans.com

     

    2. Ralph Lauren:

    Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren Corp. engages in the design, marketing and  distribution of premium lifestyle products in four categories: apparel, home, accessories and fragrances. The company’s brand names, which include Polo by Ralph Lauren, Ralph Lauren Purple Label, Ralph Lauren Collection, Black Label, Blue Label, Lauren by Ralph Lauren, RRL, RLX, Ralph Lauren Children wear, Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren, Chaps and Club Monaco. It operates in three business segments: Wholesale, Retail and Licensing. The company was founded by Ralph Lauren in 1967 and is headquartered in New York, NY.

    Annual revenue: $7.6 billion

    Ralph Lauren Corp. : Denimsandjeans.com

     

    3. Old Navy:

    Old_NavyOld Navy is a popular clothing and accessories retailer owned by American multinational corporation Gap Inc. Old Navy is currently doing better than its parent brand, the Gap. It has lower prices and tends to stay on brand, targeting the right consumers with affordable styles.  As one of the largest apparel brands in the USA, they offer customers fabulous fashion online as well in  1,000+ stores around the world.

    Annual revenue: $6.60 billion

    Old Navy : Denimsandjeans.com

    4. Gap:

    GapThe Gap, Inc., commonly known as Gap Inc. or Gap, is an American multinational clothing and accessories retailer.Gap Inc. is a leading global retailer offering clothing, accessories and personal care products for men, women and children under the Gap, Banana Republic, Old Navy, Athleta and Intermix brands. Gap Inc. products are available for purchase in more than 90 countries worldwide through about 3,300 company-operated stores, almost 400 franchise stores, and e-commerce sites.

    Annual revenue: $6.20 billion

    Gap Inc. : Denimsandjeans.com

     

    5. Levi Strauss & Co.:

    Levi'sAnyone can make a pair of blue jeans, but Levi Strauss & Co. made the first blue jean –– in 1873. And they draw upon our heritage to continually reinvent the blue jean for generation after generation.Levi’s jeans have become one of the most recognizable and widely imitated clothing in the world, capturing the imagination and loyalty of generations of diverse individuals in over 110 countries.

    Annual revenue: $4.8 billion

    GLevi Strauss & Co.: Denimsandjeans.com

     

    6. Michael Kors :

    michael Michael Kors is a world-renowned, award-winning designer of luxury accessories and ready-to-wear brand. Behind this  burgeoning  empire stands a singular designer which is most popular in USA and all around the world. Michael Kors Holdings Limited (KORS), which deals in fashion accessories. 

    Annual revenue: $4.4 billion

    Michael Kors : Denimsandjeans.com

    7. Coach:

    CoachCoach, Inc. is a luxury fashion company based in New York City. The company is known for accessories and gifts for women and men, including handbags, men’s bags, women’s and men’s small leather goods, footwear, outerwear, ready-to-wear, watches, travel accessories, scarves, sun wear, fragrance, jewelry, and other accessories.

    Annual revenue: $4.3 billion

    Coach, Inc. : Denimsandjeans.com

    8. Tommy Hilfiger :

    Tommy HilfigerTommy Hilfiger is one of the world’s leading designer lifestyle brands and is internationally recognized for celebrating the essence of classic American cool style, featuring preppy with a twist designs.Tommy Hilfiger is an American fashion, apparel, design, fragrance retail company, offering consumers low end products including men’s, women’s and children’s apparel, sportswear, denim, and a range of licensed products such as accessories, jewelry, watches, fragrances and home furnishings.

    Annual revenue: $3.6 billion

    Tommy Hilfiger : Denimsandjeans.com

    9. American Eagle:

    americanAmerican Eagle Outfitters is an American clothing and accessories retailer. The Company offers clothing, accessories and personal care products. The Company operates under the American Eagle Outfitters and aerie by American Eagle Outfitters brands. The American Eagle Outfitters brand offers denims, pants, shorts, sweaters, fleece, outerwear, graphic t-shirts, footwear and accessories. The aerie brand is a collection of intimates and personal care products for women, such as bras and undies at the core, and offerings in sleep, swim and apparel. The Company offers its products online at ae.com and aerie.com and at various international store locations managed by third-party operators. The Company operates around 1,000 retail stores in the United States and internationally. The Company has stores in the United States, Canada, Mexico, Hong Kong, China and the United Kingdom.

    Annual revenue: $3.3 billion

    American Eagle Outfitters : Denimsandjeans.com

     

    10. Under Armour :

    Under ArmourUnder Armour, Inc. is an American sports clothing and accessories company. The company is a supplier of sportswear and casual apparel. Under Armour began offering footwear in 2006.The sports retailer made more than $3 billion in revenue last year. It may be far from eclipsing Nike’s global empire, but it continues to grow and sign major deals with impressive athletes, like Stephen Curry and Jordan Spieth.

    Annual revenue: $3.1 billion

    Under Armour, Inc. : Denimsandjeans.com

  • Levi’s Tries To Survive In Yoga Era

    Levi’s Tries To Survive In Yoga Era

    The athleisure trend has been very strong for last few years and is confounding  pundits who were considering it to be just a fad . Yoga has been one of the main components of the increasing affinity to activewear and is affecting clothing lines tremendously. The denim industry is definitely influenced by this trend as sales of jeans –particularly women- were strongly affected specially in US where they fell about 8% last year as per NPD group figures. Companies like Levi’s have been particularly affected as their sales of women’s jeans went down by 10%. By mid 2014, with sales of athletic pants had risen 62 per cent from 2010—and athleisure apparel started  looking less like a fad and more like a permanent addition to women’s closets. Eva Mendes, the actress and style icon, spoke for many women when she told a fashion blog that if she was seen wearing jeans, it could only mean that her softer pants were dirty.

    Activewear has grown faster than the overall apparel market during the past two years as more people wear exercise clothing casually. Analysts at Barclays estimate it may grow by almost 50% in U.S. to more than $100 billion at retail by 2020. A small comparison below in a report on  Bloomberg shows how a small company Lulemon has grown over last few years selling yoga clothes and has actually a market capitalization of over $9 billion.

    Levi’s Tries To Survive In Yoga Era denimsandjeans.com

    Levi’s Tries To Survive In Yoga Era denimsandjeans.com

    2 decades ago, Levi’s was bigger than Nike at over $ 7 billion , but now Nike crosses $30 billion in revenues and Levi’s fell to $4 billion.

    At Levi’s, the yoga pants scourge is especially vexing, disrupting a turnaround plan by a new chief executive officer that had been showing signs of success. Levi’s is , however, not sleeping . It has focused its efforts on R&D to tackle the athleisure onslaught. At the foot of Telegraph Hill in San Francisco, in a renovated grain mill with soaring ceilings and wooden beams, Bart Sights , senior Director for technical innovation is refining his recipes for denim. In his hands, stained dark blue from day after day of plunging fabric into buckets of indigo dye, he tries to work out the correct look and feel for a new skinny jeans for women using different combinations of fibers, weaves and finishes. He tries to replicate a second hand women’s jeans bought in Thailand which after years of wear has developed unique patterns all over. Artificially reproducing the wear is easy, done with sandpaper, oxygen baths, and rocks. “The trick,” Sights says, “is to get a look like this on a very modern fabric—a fabric with a lot of stretch in it.”

    Levi’s Tries To Survive In Yoga Era denimsandjeans.com

    Levi’s Tries To Survive In Yoga Era denimsandjeans.com

    Levi’s Tries To Survive In Yoga Era denimsandjeans.com

    Source : Bloomberg.com

    Sights’s team began tearing apart wet suits and other unconventional garments. “Neoprene is supercomfortable in the water because it allows movement, but it’s also superforgiving, it recovers well,” he says. “And there are some fibers in lingerie that bring these really valuable comfort attributes.”. Levi’s is trying to use such fibers in their jeans.

    Bloomberg in their report makes a mention of shoppers such as Kate Slattery, 25, a data scientist in San Francisco, one of dozens of women interviewed for this story, says she hasn’t bought a new pair of jeans in more than a year but did splurge  on Lululemons. She loves their clever pockets. Asked for her take on Levi’s, Slattery draws a blank. “My view of Levi’s is probably 15 years old,” she says, “because I just haven’t even considered shopping there since my mom shopped with me.”

    Levi’s Tries To Survive In Yoga Era denimsandjeans.com

    Source:Bloomberg.com

    Levi’s developed a new line called Lot 700.-a nod to the original women’s jean, Lady Levi’s Lot 701, introduced in 1934. The new one features the retro “Two Horse” leather logo patch on the rear waistband and adds larger back pockets to accentuate the seat. Another style, Lot 300, uses a more girdle-like design for a different shaping effect. The 501ct can be worn in a looser fit.To blunt its sales decline, Levi’s rushed some of the new materials that Sights was working on to market in the summer of last year, infusing skinny and midrise jeans with additional soft and stretchy material.

    Levi’s finally introduced the new women’s line earlier this month, at an event in Manhattan’s clubby Meatpacking District. Large photographs displayed up-and-coming female artists wearing Levi’s, and six models stood like mannequins wearing the Lot 700 line. Holding court near the door, James Curleigh, Levi’s president, said he expected the women’s reboot to help the company increase wholesale prices over the next three years. Macy’s is doubling the amount of space for the brand in its flagship store in Manhattan and adding floor space at stores across the U.S., according to Louis Mastrogiacomo, who manages the women’s ready-to-wear category for Macy’s. Feedbacks from customers seem to be good , though whether these jeans will make them abandon yoga pants is doubtful and remains to be seen.

  • Cone Denim Celebrates 110 Years Of White Oak Plant

    Cone Denim Celebrates 110 Years Of White Oak Plant

    Cone Denim recently celebrated 110th year of operation. Still true to its heritage, the White Oak Plant operates today creating Cone Denim’s authentic premium and vintage denim  on Vintage 1940s Fly Shuttle Looms as well as state of the art modern looms. Innovation and heritage combine to create the celebrated denims, White Oak originals.

    In 1905 brothers Moses and Ceasar Cone embarked on what would become an icon in the denim industry, a mill called White Oak. The turn of the century brought a new energy and excitement to America, and denim fabrics gained popularity as a favored “workwear”. The first bobbin of White Oak yarn was produced on April 20, 1905.

    Cone denim celebrates 110 years of manufacturing  with the release of a special T-shirt  and 100% profits from the sale of this T-shirt would go to support

     

    the Salvation Army Boys & Girls Club of Greensboro .

     

    “We are returning to our roots with the unveiling of Natural Indigo Selvage Denim, produced exclusively at its historic White Oak® mill in Greensboro, NC. The Natural Indigo Collection is “Crafted with Care in the USA” and created in celebration of White Oak’s 110 year anniversary –Cone denim says’”.

    “This is one of our most exciting developments,” says Kara Nicholas, Vice President Product Development + Marketing. “The celebration of White Oak’s 110 year anniversary made this the perfect time to bring together White Oak’s heritage and authentic selvage denims with new innovation in bio based natural dyes from plant based – US farmed indigo. As far as we know, this is the first time that natural indigo has been used in scalable production in the United States in over 100 years.”

    Cone Denim Natural Indigo

    Some Cool Cone Products

    Coming out with their Top Secret line of Selvedges to commemorate their 110 years Cone denim White Oak brings out some cool natural indigo colors and fabric structures to give a very different look and feel to the selvedges (see pics below).

    Cone Denim Celebrates 110 Years Of White Oak Plant

    Cone Denim Celebrates 110 Years Of White Oak Plant

    Cone denim Detail shots of knees and whiskers for month 4 of the W660 WhiteOak110 selvage denim wear test

    Cone Denim Celebrates 110 Years Of White Oak Plant

    WhiteOak110 collection style 7237 “Floral” shirting fabric is finally here in a 6.25 oz 100% cotton Dobby weave woven at the one n only White Oak mill.

    Cone Denim Celebrates 110 Years Of White Oak Plant

     

    Some Vintage Garments From Cone Collection

    We also bring below some of iconic heritage garments from Cone collection – some of which are over 100 years old and listed by Cone.

    Cone Denim Celebrates 110 Years Of White Oak Plant

    The mid-1900’s waist overall is from an unknown brand and the owner practically wore them to pieces, as evident by the extensive hand-mending and patchwork seen throughout, not to mention the lack of indigo left in yarns. These appear to be heavily customized by the wearer as well- the single needle stitching, unfinished seams and miscellaneous suspender buttons sewn onto the waist band all suggest that at one point these could’ve been started life as bib overalls and turned into a version more closely resembling the 5-pocket denim jeans.

     

    Cone Denim Celebrates 110 Years Of White Oak Plant

    A pair of heavily worn bib overalls from Blue Bell brand back in the ’40’s. This low back model has heavy hand-stitched patchwork repairs throughout, triangular suspender reinforcement, and printed “Blue Bell” label. There were several versions of Blue Bell’s label and the layout of this particular one indicates it is an earlier design. On later model garments the bell on the label is slightly tilted at an angle. Branded buttons read either “SANFORIZED” or “BLUE BELL.” The suspender straps were taken from an Anvil brand garment.

    Cone Denim Celebrates 110 Years Of White Oak Plant

    A hickorystripe popover style work wear shirt with chambray trim along the bottom circa 1940. The patchwork, hand-stitched repairs and lack of industrial fasteners, together with the “one operation” style of seeing indicates that this shirt was either homemade, or fashioned by a local seamstress. The front and back of the garment shows the sun-bleached outline of the bib and straps of the overalls the wearer paired it with.

     

    Cone Denim Celebrates 110 Years Of White Oak Plant

    Heavy hand repairs with a missing back left leg exposing cross sections of patchwork mending give way to a two back pocket bib design low back model with triangular suspender reinforcements.

    And given below is a video from CONE proudly declaring that their fabrics are ‘STILL MADE IN AMERICA’ !

     

    Still Made In America from Cone Denim on Vimeo.

  • Closed Denim Fall Winter 2015 Women’s Lookbook

    Closed Denim Fall Winter 2015 Women’s Lookbook

    The Italian brand CLOSED comes out some of the common variations in styles , designing and washing including patchworks, 3D looks , double denim looks, dressy shirts, skinnies and the coming back in trend flares. Something new was the designed/frayed  hems in some of the pieces. On the whole, the stress was on double denim looks .

    Closed Denim Fall Winter 2015 Women’s Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Closed Denim Fall Winter 2015 Women’s Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Closed Denim Fall Winter 2015 Women’s Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Closed Denim Fall Winter 2015 Women’s Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Closed Denim Fall Winter 2015 Women’s Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

    Closed Denim Fall Winter 2015 Women’s Lookbook  denimsandjeans.com

  • Jeans Market In UK | 2010-2014

    Jeans Market In UK | 2010-2014

    In the previous report  on German market of denim jeans, we had a look at some of the important aspects of  that market including its trade quantities within EU and outside with the entire world.  The detailed analysis also helped to find out the consumption of jeans in German market .
    We do another analysis for the UK market also . UK is again an important country in the EU with a population of over 64 million and a per capita income of about $38,000 which is less than that of Germany. UK has some large clothing retailers including M&S , Next , Tesco and many others – most of them being important players in denim industry as well. Let’s have a look at some important figures from the UK market to understand more about the denim market there including :

    • Table of imports of jeans into  UK from 2010 to 2014 from within EU and respective share of important countries from EU in UK market. 2 tables and 3 graphs.
    • Imports of Jeans from EU27 into UK and their prices from different exporting countries.
    • Table of imports of jeans into  UK from 2010 to 2014 from around the world – table and graph.
    • Table for % share of UK market of EU27 vs ‘Rest of the world’ with a graph.
    • Table of % share of exporting countries in the market of UK  2010-2014
    • Table of % share of exports from and outside the EU 2010-2014
    • Table for exports of jeans out of UK into EU countries 2010-2014
    • Table for exports of jeans to rest of the world 2010-2014
    • Net consumption of jeans in UK 2010-2014
    • Per capita consumption of jeans in UK 2010 vs 2014 

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    • EU27 COUNTRIES

      Let’s begin by starting to look at figures for imports of jeans into UK from within EU.  In the table below, we can see that UK imported about 7 million pcs of jeans from countries within EU – highest among them being from Spain. Other important countries are Germany, Poland, Sweden etc. However, it needs to remembered that these jeans could have been the ones that are re-distributed after importing from other countries or a part of them having been produced in EU. Its interesting to note that the total jeans imported from within EU has increased from 5 million pcs to over 7 million pcs.

      Import Jeans into UK 2010-2014

      Country 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 % of 2014
      Spain (ES) 1.08 1.21 1.35 1.47 2.08 21.62%
      Netherlands (NL) 1.38 1.53 1.35 1.30 1.47 15.26%
      Italy (IT) 1.95 1.58 1.60 1.55 1.32 13.69%
      Germany (DE) 1.09 1.11 0.96 1.03 1.17 12.11%
      Poland (PL) 0.29 0.31 0.78 0.93 0.76 7.88%
      Sweden (SE) 0.16 0.38 0.48 0.63 0.72 7.46%
      Belgium (BE) 1.54 0.93 0.44 0.54 0.69 7.11%
      Czech Republic (CZ) 0.22 0.32 0.55 0.45 0.54 5.58%
      Denmark (DK) 0.28 0.36 0.47 0.38 0.51 5.24%
      Ireland (IE) 0.49 0.45 0.47 0.44 0.32 3.31%
      Portugal (PT) 0.01 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.06 0.62%
      Others 0.21 0.11 0.07 0.02 0.01 0.12%
      Total 8.69 8.31 8.57 8.74 9.64 100.00%

      Spain holds 29% of UK market from within EU and Germany holds about 16% and Poland about 10%.

      % share of UK Jeans Market held by EU Countries -2014

      The table below shows the average price of jeans imported into UK from EU countries. The average price of import in 2014 is Euro 25 and the prices from individual countries are given alongwith. The table and the graph below show the details of prices from important EU countries. Spain again is the most expensive .

      Imports of Jeans Into UK from Within EU -2014

      Country Qty (million pcs) Price (Euro/pc)
      Spain (ES) 2.08 12.10
      Netherlands (NL) 1.47 26.07
      Italy (IT) 1.32 36.18
      Germany (DE) 1.17 20.86
      Poland (PL) 0.76 14.60
      Sweden (SE) 0.72 19.04
      Belgium (BE) 0.69 20.42
      Czech Republic (CZ) 0.54 23.32
      Denmark (DK) 0.51 21.66
      Ireland (IE) 0.32 10.69
      Portugal (PT) 0.06 20.16
      Others 0.01
      Total 9.64 21.09

       

      Imports of Jeans Into Uk from Within EU -2014

      WORLD

      Without looking at the picture of imports of Jeans from around the world , we cannot have the true picture of what is happening in the UK market because most of the jeans are coming from out of EU. Bangladesh holds the largest share of 24.54% of UK market in 2014 whereas China , Pakistan and Egypt come next with 23%, 19% and 4% share. The total quantity imported in 2014 was about 86 million pcs whereas in 2010 it was about 78million pieces showing a growth of 10% in 5 years which is a decent increase.

      Rest of the World | Imports of Jeans in UK 2010-2014

      Country 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 % of 2014
      Bangladesh 20.07 21.05 22.06 21.74 21.24 24.54
      China 29.51 24.51 22.50 18.39 19.96 23.07
      Pakistan 12.19 10.63 10.94 15.05 16.61 19.19
      Egypt 1.84 2.56 3.52 3.44 3.60 4.16
      Cambodia 0.69 2.31 4.55 4.91 3.49 4.04
      Shri Lanka 2.17 2.24 1.76 1.41 1.25 1.45
      India 1.54 1.22 0.77 0.56 0.52 0.60
      Morocco 0.17 0.28 0.32 0.20 0.30 0.34
      Honkong 0.47 0.54 0.25 0.27 0.27 0.31
      Indonesia 0.47 0.54 0.25 0.27 0.27 0.31
      Tunisia 0.48 0.38 0.24 0.28 0.22 0.26
      Mauritius 0.39 0.09 0.08 0.13 0.11 0.13
      Sub Total 69.98 66.36 67.23 66.65 67.83 78.39
      others 4.38 4.79 6.87 7.84 9.35 10.81
      World 74.37 71.15 74.10 74.49 77.19 89.19
      World Total 78.75 75.93 80.98 82.33 86.54 100

       

      The graph below shows the breakup of market among the key players in 2014.

      % Share of UK Jeans Market from the World -2014

      TOTAL IMPORTS

      The total imports of jeans  into UK can be now summed up in the table below with shipments coming from both within EU and from outside. The share of EU in the UK market is about 9% and 91% comes from rest of the world in 2014. The quantities at 86.6 million pcs is about 7% higher than that in 2010 . But it is interesting to note that the increase in shipments comes from both within EU and rest of the world. Normally one would have expected within EU shipments to have been reduced .

      Imports Into UK From World and EU | 2010-2014

      2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 % of 2014
      World 74.37 71.15 74.10 74.49 77.19 90.8
      EU 7.60 7.20 7.61 7.71 8.47 9.2
      Total Import 81.97 78.35 81.71 83.20 86.66 100.00

       

      Imports Into UK From World and EU | 2010-2014

      TOTAL CONSUMPTION

      The total consumption of jeans in UK can be calculated with the table below. The first two columns show the exports of jeans to rest of the world and to EU countries. The shipments to EU countries are much higher- of course UK also has important distribution chains of many important stores . UK also has a small manufacturing setup for jeans but we have not considered it in our report. The  shipments to EU27 countries increase every year and go upto 18 million pcs in 2014. When we balance the exports and imports , the net consumption comes to about 65 million pcs in 2014

      Exports and Imports from And Into UK | 2010-2014 (million pcs)

      Exports outside EU27 Exports to EU27 countries Total Exports Total Imports Balance consumed
      2010 3.28 11.21 14.49 81.97 67.48
      2011 2.26 10.47 12.73 78.35 65.62
      2012 1.72 12.42 14.14 81.71 67.57
      2013 2.09 14.98 17.07 82.20 65.13
      2014 2.17 18.37 20.54 85.66 65.12

       

      Exports and Imports From and Into Uk 2010-2014

      PER CAPITA CONSUMPTION

      The per capita consumption of jeans in UK can be calculated below:

      2010

      Total net consumption : 67.48 million pcs

      Total population            : 62.26 million

      Per capita consumption  : 1.08 jeans per person/p.a

      2014

      Total net consumption : 65.12 million pcs

      Total population            : 67.13 million

      Per capita consumption  : 0.97 jeans per person/p.a

      From the above we can clearly see falling standards of jeans consumption in UK where per capita consumption has decreased by over 10% and even the absolute consumption has decreased . Not a great sign for the industry. But of course, some exporting countries would still be happy to have taken a larger pie of the market after having dislocated others !

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