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  • Interviews COVID Times – A Talk with Mohsin Sajid

    Interviews COVID Times – A Talk with Mohsin Sajid

    Continuing our series of #Covidtimes – How are you coping, Sandeep Agarwal speaks to Mohsin Sajid about the current crisis to get a perspective as how they are evolving during these tough times. Mohsin shares his views on all questions during the Instagram live talk.

    Sandeep:
    Hi Mohsin , How are you ?

    Mohsin:
    Hi , I am fine thankyou . I have been watching all of your talks and they are amazing.Thankyou very much for inviting me.

    Sandeep:
    You are most welcome. We need to get perspective from people from different parts of the world and you are so strongly based in UK.Before I start, I hope everybody in your family and friends are okay.

    Mohsin:
    They are all fine. My parents are in Singapore right now and have extended their trip.

    Sandeep:
    Is it likely that the lockdown will continue for another 3-4 weeks?

    Mohsin:
    Yes, they are planning to extend till May at least but we are hoping for another month , lockdown will continue.

    Sandeep:
    Now, we have learned that everything in UK is closed including all the stores, shopping etc. Only shops for essential goods are now open.


    Mohsin:
    Literally , only food places are open including some takeaways.Everyone is really becoming good at cooking again.

    Sandeep:
    So , how are you coping with the situation? What changes are there in your life because of this ?

    Mohsin:
    We are working from home.We travel a lot so the only thing which is effected is that we used to go on travel in every 2 weeks being it work for a client , visiting factory , or making fashion creations for a show. But we have been still busy , we have been preparing presentations for our clients, all the other educational work etc. So we have become a quite more busier.

    Sandeep:
    So people like you and many others I have been taking to are ahead of the curve as they were already using these digital tools.

    Mohsin:
    Yes, we have been doing videos for our clients for 5-6 years now.Now, in the last few weeks , everyone is kind of freaking out.We have got really lovely clients for whom we have been working for.They have given a lot of additional work . But it has been tough as well because some of our clients have not replied to us. Some of our big clients creates product themselves, so they have not been paid and as a result we have not been paid.So , it’s very sad what’s happening.

    Sandeep:
    So do you expect that they will pay or not ?

    Mohsin:
    I am not sure and I am hoping this.Its our clients and they have not paid us since January . So , it is really tough and strange because they are really good at their work. They are still in contact and have not disappeared . So, I am hoping that we get paid . People are in much more trouble right now and we are thankful that we are fine.

    Sandeep:
    In many other supply chain companies, they have the buyers which are very empathetic, they are trying to find a solution and some of them are quite rude and upfront.

    Mohsin:
    I have been copied a lot emails and some of our friends are doing a lot of things on line . Some of the emails they get are so ridiculous asking for silly , horrible ans non sustainable discounts. There are many big garments companies which are not thinking about anybody but themselves and it’s quite disgusting.

    Sandeep:
    Are they thinking about employees or not ?

    Mohsin:
    I have come across many companies who are saying that they will pay to their employees and also companies which are very upfront. There are many companies which are just thinking about themselves.It is quote terrible.But one should understand that they gonna need the employees again after this is over anyway.

    Sandeep:
    In Europe, the retrenching of employees is more than USA. But you cannot through out  your employees this way.

    Mohsin:
    In Europe, its very strong and you cannot fire anyone like that.We are lucky that we have a systematic approach in UK. In developing countries, where there is only one person who is earning for his family , and supplying money to parents and uncles , its very difficult and sad for them . But if you are not important in some bigger companies ,they ted to lose their jobs.

    Sandeep:
    In terms of retailers and buyers, most of them are in a difficult position specially the smaller ones which are in a bugger mess. So all these small brands , artisanal brands, you yourself run an artisanal brand, so how do you find yourself in this time as a business owner ? Where do you see people like you in the near future?

    Mohsin:
    To be honest , our business strategy has changed in the last 18 months. I have been doing a lot of work with tancel and doing a lot of sustainability work.We have been doing a collection for our clients which is really influencing the way we design. I have been contemplating not to use cotton and we have not used polyester for such a long time now.It is very satisfying , quite challenging and really fun. I hope that what you were asking for.

    Sandeep:
    No, actually my point of view was  how these small brands and prime ventures in the coming months or in a year , will they find it difficult to survive or may be they find a new niche?


    Mohsin:
    I think these smaller brands are going to suffer.It is more interesting to see that will the products be more expensive to buy, is the minimum order quantity  gonna change ? There are many questions on how these smaller brands are gonna run the denim line. It is very sad like situation.

    Sandeep:
    We have been hearing that quality will become more important in the coming times. So , when this situation comes where consumers are looking at more quality than quantity, I feel that smaller brands have more time because this gives them a better space and they produce in a better way.So , the buyers will might pay higher to get a better product, probably then it will create a new niche.

    Mohsin:
    Yes, the smaller brands are the ones which are gonna do so much better now. Everybody is now conscious that if the product s made in an ethical way , are the products sustainable.All the companies that have been doing really amazing so far are gonna benefit a lot more and even not , it’s gonna increase a lot . Fast fashion will be there monitoring the product as it is sustainably washed or not like Jeanologia.It’s gonna be a little more open as how the products are made.I am not sure anyone will go in the store and try the jeans anymore.There are so many questions like who else has wore that jeans. So the real question is how they are gonna sell the product. There are lot of questions which we are gonna find the answers in about 6 months and this is scary and exciting.

    Sandeep:
    Are you going to be looking for different kind of denim fabrics as compared to what you were using in the past? Is your perception changed that I am going to use this kind of fabric .

    Mohsin:

    It is been happening a lot lately.In last 15 years , I have been teaching in many different colleges and universities. I have been working with many big companies and they are our associates like Kingpins , transformers etc. It is all about educating the younger generation.They are asking a lot more serious questions as compared to what we asked when we were kids. I have been creating the collection with zero waste even not with the recycling material because there is no waste involved.It is more clever design. We have designing more sustainable ways in the last 2-3 years.Marco and Tricia have been amazing people to work with. there are some companies which are kind of detective that you can’t work with this people etc but these companies are so good as they say you work with as many people you want.

    Sandeep:
    What changes do you see in the denim as a product ? As a garment , as a fabric , what changes do you see apart from sustainability ?

    Mohsin:
    I think its gonna be more about anti bacterial. It is been heading towards a non cotton solution and that is what people are aiming towards.So not using cotton , polyester and much more sustainable;e garments.We need to create and wash the products in such ways and many companies like Jeanologia and Tonello have been working for this a lot . I have been myself working as non cotton non polyester way although I like cotton. I think it should be treated as a premium products and not a a cheap product. I have seen somewhere that a cotton product has been sold at very cheap rates and it should be sold at higher prices.I always said that fast fashion companies should not be allowed to use virgin cotton.Every company over 60 years old should not be allowed to use raw cotton.I don’t think its gonna happen but There are so many people who live on cotton and it should be used to make other things like food for instance because cotton has been grown on lands which grow food. Cotton is s strange product which grows only on a good quality soil.So, there are many other solutions, natural dyes m indigo dyes etc.  There are companies which are coming with  a solution with bacteria base.So there are solutions where we can stop using cotton and chemical dyes in coming years.It is PHD task and we are gonna give it to  4-5 students every year.We are gonna pay them wages , accommodation and supporting them so that they can find a better solution to all the problems which we are facing today.They are going to present their finding in the shows like Kingpins every 6 moths. So this will be very transparent and not gonna be a hidden thing for a particular company.So its about sharing and finding the solution a bit faster.

    Sandeep:
    Yes, it is a great task. But due to CORNOA, we don’t know when it is going to happen.

    Mohsin:
    Yes, it might put things on hold right now.But we are going to get normality in upcoming time anyway.We are not gonna interview the students in CORONA virus but we probably start around September.We have been working on this since many years so there will be a delay in this but it will happen for sure.

    Sandeep:
    I saw you in Japan in first week of March. It was probably for the show that we were going to organize.

    Mohsin:
    It is very sad really . We were there to support your show, we booked very early and we were very excited but it turned out a holiday for us. Whenever we go to Japan, it is always for the buyers, buying houses and our clients. This month , we went there purely for fun .We only planned the 2 days of your sure and that’s it rest all the week we planned for fun.When we went there, we went for window shopping every single day and people were very conscious there with sanitization and masks with everybody . And when we came back in UK , everybody really freaked out.I am really looking forward to go to your show in September.

    Sandeep:
    I really hope that everything is okay by that time because it is really getting too long and hard.

    Mohsin:
    I think you people really inviting some very amazing people in the show and we were very excited. You don’t get to see all the brands and companies at one platform.You have a great team and I hope you will be able to do it in September and I will be there to support you.

    Sandeep:
    Thankyou so much Mohsin. So as a denim industry where do think we are heading?

    Mohsin:
    A lot of questions are gonna asked to the companies about the ethics and how they are treating the employees.It is heading into a more interesting space where people will be designing and taking their stuff into non seasonal products,it is gonna be very confusing what’s gonna be on the shop floor. I don’t know if people are going to go on a holiday much.It is shaking up industry in a positive way.We have always been heading in to an industry with too many companies. I have been shaking hands with new cotton mills every time in many parts of the world and it is very frustrating, In UK, Europe, people are going to loose their jobs.

    Sandeep:
    What about the millennials in UK ? are they interested for shopping and wanting to go out ? Like everybody wants to go out right now but if given an opportunity will they be interested in going out for shopping ?

    Mohsin:
    I think some of the people are gonna shop as the stuff is now cheaper with heavy discounts. We are gonna be flooded with lots of products that are cheaper. But more sensible people are not gonna be shopping and heading out.There are many changes around us and we have been working from home and finally people are able to see nature. So the theme of the nature is gonna come back.

    Sandeep:
    What are the positives you see coming out of this crisis?

    Mohsin:
    People have been eating more healthy.They are more conscious about their health.They are more aware about their food habits.The pollution has been reduced and the environment is now very good.

    Sandeep:
    That is a big positive we can see . there are other smaller positives like family relations, how people are looking at more important things in life, understanding the real worth of people etc. So anything you would like to share as what are you doing in terms of this ?

    Mohsin:
    We have been really doing fine and we have been very very busy during this period. I am gonna be working on a lot more online stuff like , online presentations which people have been asking me for my tutorials. So I will be doing 6-7 hours of my lectures online now in coming weeks . I am doing this with the guys from Kingpin and this will be fun.Most of them will be on how to make products. This period of uncertainty has kicked me up to take the stuff online .I will be finally doing my book on destruction methods which I started. So, there will be a lot of cool things at the end of the year.I am gonna have a serious talk on denim history in my studio as well.

    Sandeep:
    You happen to have a lot of vintage sewing machines in your studio.


    Mohsin:
    Yes, I have learned a lot through them. Some of them are very unique and from different parts of the world. I have learned a lot as a denim designer through them.

    Sandeep:
    It is kind of a denim nerd studio you have there.

    Mohsin:
    I have going and working for different mills in India, Pakistan and Bangladesh and learning a lot about these sewing machines.I am also gonna do some workshops on history garments of the year 1873. Even the Levi’s Strauss and Jacob Davis came up with rivets and stuff , there are much more interesting garments from that period.In that time the rivets were not even patent , there are so many amazing garments from that time.In 1950s, it was named as golden era of producing denim but for me when the overlock was designed , that was the time of golden period for me.The period from 1870 to 1920 , it was a magical period which no one really references too much and that is the period I have been heavily researching on.

    Sandeep:
    I would really love to visit the studio . It has been really lovely talking to you and specially seeing the collection in your studio and it is wonderful.

    Mohsin:
    Yes , you are always welcome. You people are doing an amazing job. Although you show has been postponed, still you are promoting other people stuff online. I have been honored to become friends with you. We have not been travelling much and interacting online now. But , you are most welcome to visit.

    Sandeep:
    Definitely , thankyou so much and stay safe , take care.

    Mohsin:
    Thank you so much and same to you.

  • Enrique Silla Shares Views On Future Of Industry- #Covidtimes talks

    Enrique Silla Shares Views On Future Of Industry- #Covidtimes talks

    Enrique Silla is the founder of globally known technology company Jeanologia. He is considered one of the world authorities in the Science of Finishing and has contributed significantly towards growth of sustainable principles in global apparel industry. Sandeep Agarwal spoke to him on Instagram to know from him about what he feels about the impact of current crisis on the industry. He shared his views during the IG Live talk with Sandeep Agarwal during our #Covidtimes series. We reproduce the talk below

    Sandeep:

    Hi Enrique, How are you ?

    Enrique:

    Everything is okay, It is a pleasure to be with all of you.

     Sandeep:

    Thank you and it’s my pleasure and honor that you are joining us. So welcome again and first of all our wishes to everybody in Spain. Things are getting better now, and we hope everybody in your company, friends and family are okay. 

    Enrique:

    Yes, everybody is okay till now in my family and Jeanologia family. We are living a terrible time around the world , but so far we are all good.We hope that your family and everybody’s family joining this conference is okay.

    Sandeep:

    Yes, we are pretty okay here and I hope everybody who has joined us is also okay. So, I believe that Spain is now in the process of coming back to normal in a few weeks. The peak is over and normal situations can be seen now. Can we hope for that?

    Enrique:

    As you know COVID 19 has hit very strongly in Europe, especially in Italy and Spain.We have seen 17k deaths in Spain and we can’t say we are going back to normal. Most of the people are still at home. Our company Jeanologia has been nominated as an essential company by our government against COVID –19 but non-essential companies will come back to work tomorrow.

    Many activities like concert, restaurant, hotels will be closed at least till July . We don’t know yet as we are not told by the government, but  if we follow what is happening in China , they have started going back to normality but probably it will take them 3-4 months to come back to normal life. Europe and the USA are in the middle and after this comes countries like India, Bangladesh, Pakistan. I guess the shops will not open till June. Spanish companies are providing masks and other equipment which is a good thing to protect from the crisis.Advanced companies have already started understanding the short term effect and creating a vision of what is going to be the future.Most of the companies are in phase 2 where we have to protect each other and keep alive.I think most of them will go in phase 3 that is trying to mug in the future.

    Sandeep:

    So, I saw some information on your company playing a very big and important role in terms of helping the government, in treating sanitization,preparing masks and other equipment.So can you tell me a little about how it works and what you are doing?

    Enrique:

    This is a beautiful history and we are so proud in Jeanologia.You know our company has been named ,as I mentioned before , as an essential company by the government of Spain in the fight against COVID-19. What is happening is that most of the hospitals around the world are not having the screen protected masks.These are the masks which the fire department and army used to protect their face , eyes . So together with Valencia Polytechnic University and school of engineering , and with collaboration of other makers Spain , masks has been designed. We follow protocol of sanitization to sanitized them before delivering to hospitals- so they contacted and Jeanologia have started manufacturing machines to wash jeans without using water.We have started in 2005 and we have 1000 equipment around the world that are today processing jeans without the usage of water and with zero emissions. But now we had 15 Jeanologia engineers working 24 hours a day for 4 days including software engineers, mechanical engineers , chemical engineers. We have been working to transform our denim washing machine in a sanitizing box that sanitizes the screen facial masks. We started the production 10 days ago . 

    We are producing and sanitizing 15000 masks every day . We have already delivered 150,000 masks to the Spanish hospitals. This donation by the Jeanologia team will continue to help our country and our people and we are honored to do that. The main thing here is that we have built it in the modular system that means that only in 4 hours , we can transform the old 1000 G2 denim machines that are around the world , in a sanitizing box. Together with the team , we have developed a wide room campaign for the conversion into sanitizing boxes . 

    So , now we are contacting our customers and explaining to them how to do it. We are also giving the instruction of how to build a mask to them . So , they can offer these to their communities and I think we will have a beautiful history and I invite all the people joining this conversation.We can globally make a contribution to the world in these difficult moments. So , this is what we are doing and it is a great initiative and I am so proud of all the Jeanologist that are working here. I invite all the industries to join this action.

    Sandeep:

    I think this is a great initiative and you deserve applause from all of our visitors and people who are here. It’s an amazing thing what you’re doing. Now in terms of as you mention the company’s having a machine can convert it into a sanitizing box. So is it they need some extra hardware or software? 

    Enrique:

    We need to connect with the software for 10 minutes. Then, we need to send them drawings of how they can stop or turn the drum and very important, we need to send them the protocols that are decided by the health authorities and are approved . But we have very strong experience because we are in production every day. So, in only one day they can be ready to serve their communities.

    Sandeep:

    That’s really wonderful and amazing.Now in terms of the masks, what about the mask itself you know how let’s say by just pain you’re doing it but how can countries produce that mask? What is the protocol for that?

    Enrique:

    Well , there are 3 ways. One way is that we can send the ways of how to print a 3D printer, so if they can have 3D printers in their countries, they can do it. For eg companies in Spain , car companies etc are all using 3D printers.The second way to do it is through plastic injectors and by the plastic mold injectors company.We can also sell all the drawings and if they use plastic injectors in their company,they can do it. 

    And the third, there are companies in Spain  with winter production capacity of 80,000 a day that are ready to produce at a cost so they are ready to produce how to send this at a price of only 1 euro per mask which is their cost because their aim is to contribute to the world. So , we can help them to get the mask and the mask needs to be disinfected and sanitized in the countries because it’s not that we are taking this back from the hospitals , its that sanitization and disinfection is the last step of the production process before arriving to the hospitals.Because then the doctors are going to use the mask during one month and they will clean it themselves every day.

    Sandeep:

    And are the masks packed afterward? Are they put into something or packed in some kind of way?

    Enrique:

    That is a complete protocol. We do not touch it and we pack them in the net into a machine. After that , we put it without touching it in a special box that is also thermoflossed. We are just following the protocols decided by the health communities. So, we are already training other people how to do it.

    Sandeep:

    That is really amazing, and I think if we somehow get all these people who have these machines to do the same what you are doing, that would be an amazing contribution to the community.

    Enrique:

    Yes and that is we hope after this conversation, I will share a small video with you in which you can be at Jeanologia  at 2 pm , we change the shift because we are producing in a safe environment. What is the ambient , what is the strong motivation that our people have in this critical moment . But, imagine the jeans community through this technology that is spread all around the world. 

    We can make a contribution , but we want to tell you that we are not doing this donation in the name of Jeanologia but in the name of all the denim community, in the name of all the brands and in the name of all the manufacturers in the world. So, we are ready to help anyone who comes in contact with us. we are working every day, we have not stopped even one day . This was our first priority to help our nation, to help our hospitals and to save life. Now, we are all ready for our second priority and the second priority is to avoid the mistakes.

    Sandeep:

    In terms of protocol, since this is Spanish Government protocol. If we want to do the same thing in India, probably we also want to get approval here or how does it work ? Or this is WHO protocol or only Spanish Government protocol?

    Enrique:

    This is a protocol that has been defined by the Spanish Government but obviously we are talking about European governments that are in touch with European authorities and other countries also , will be having their own legislatures and rules . 

    But in Spain , which is having advanced sanitary system in the world, this is what we are doing and I think this is something every country must do according to their laws. What we can do and serve is our experience how to do it , how to follow the protocols , how to transform G2 denim machines into sanitization box. This is something we are ready with and we have a team of people prepared for that.

    Sandeep:

    That’s wonderful! Now we come to our industry because that is one of the main points which we currently have in our mind. So what is really going to happen to our industry?  What do you see in the coming times? Right now we know that it is in a big disaster. Stores are closed, mills and factories are closed.What is the next step you see ? What is going to happen?

    Enrique:

    For sure we are going to suffer a lot. I anticipate that 50 % of the brands and retailers will disappear. This is our calculations. I anticipate that 50 % of the manufacturers will disappear and we will face a very strong, very strong consolidation. This means the survivors will be much stronger. But apart from that, I don’t think that the business is going to change. What I think is we are going to face a tremendous acceleration of trends that were already there before COVID-19. So, what we were suspecting that is going to happen in 2005, 2010, now will happen in 2021 and 2022. 

    There were 2 main trends that were there before COVID –19. The first one is Sustainability. Before COVID-19, sustainability means any toxic discharge to the ambient, to the water and atmosphere. Sustainability was an advanced manufacturing capability. From now on, Sustainability is a must. Now its not an advanced capability but a basic capability. Consumers will not buy again a product that has been manufactured without taking care of our rivers, our sea and our planet. 

    Nobody will be loyal to a brand which is not respectful to our environment. So I anticipate that all these companies that are forced to close by the government, when they will open, they will never start again the scrapping lines, the potassium permanganate lines. This will never reopen again. If someone reopened that, he is crazy because consumers are not going to accept that. 

    So, the way we manufacture jeans is already cost change and it will change, it will only be an acceleration. Everything needs to be sustainable now. The second thing is about digitization. It’s about digitally designed, digital sourcing, it’s about virtual design in 3D, it’s about digital showrooms. these are already there but we need to accelerate because the losers after the COVID-19 will be the physical stores. Europe it is 10 % online, China is 20 % , but after this China will be 40-50 % online. We need to sell online and we need to completely change our operational models. We need to change the way we produce. So in Jeanologia, we have software named e-Designer where we 3D design and render the photographs. We have created a software that is called Digital Wash that gives you the formula how to produce. 

    We are already working online with the main brands around the world by making tests  and working with them .The results are fantastic because we can create a collection without the physical garment and we can extract the process. It is in the initial stage but we have already launched a project last week with main brands and companies and we are working on that. No matter what we do , what people are doing , 3D design is the next thing. The third thing is that the way we sell is changed. The way we produce needs to be changed. So we are strong believers and this trend also there before COVID-19 .

    The main problem in the market is now inventories. We anticipate that 10% of the production will come from the urban factories with automation to the USA and EUROPE. We anticipate that some countries will be winners like Turkey , Mexico , Portugal. 

    We anticipate the new opportunities in the world. The USA and EUROPE sure will be the part of it but Bangladesh and Pakistan having big manufacturers will win . Working for it , we already launched a program on demand manufacturing . We really believed that COVID-19 had accelerated that. This was going to come slowly but now we strongly believe that these 3 main things are not about the product but it’s about the way we manufacture the product. We believe that product is going to be more simple , more minimalist but the way we produce is the key. 

    So now it’s about how we produce and manufacture, it’s going to be Sustainability , Digital Design and On Demand Manufacturing. These are the 3 keys for the trends and this is the acceleration of the trend which was there before COVID-19.

    Sandeep:

    Are we expecting this acceleration which was to be done over 10 years now will be done in 1 year due to COVID-19?

    Enrique:

    In 1 year or 2 , we are going to face a very strong economical crisis.But at the end of the day , it will balance the demand and the offer. The relationship between the brands, retailers and the manufacturers , it’s not going to be a 10 year relationship. It’s going to be a strategic partnership that you can see in the future. So, Yes I agree the acceleration which I defined was going to happen in 10 years which will now happen in 1 year but at a small scale because the market is going to shrink. There is too much to offer in terms of manufacturing capabilities and brands to consumers. So, this is going to re-balance everything. Consumer demands with brands and retailers with manufacturers, this will save the same to a much better industry. But , unfortunately it will be with a lot of suffering.

    Sandeep:

    So do you think we are looking at demand reduction by over 40% going ahead?

    Enrique:

    Let’s see what is happening in China, according to the Chinese government from December. So, from December to April, that means 4 months, they have been closed. Then in April, they start slowly to open. I will say that in the first of May, all the stores will be open. But reality, if we speak to our customers in China, a lot of shops in China are reporting, they are around 35% down. So, it will take till December, to come back to normal levels. 

    So, the first consumer needs to buy again. In New York as well, things will take till July to September to come back to normal. But after that also, if you go to a shop , your temperature will be measured before entering and then you are afraid to touch the garment and afraid of going to the try room because you don’t know how many people have tried that before you. Some people will not buy because they feel afraid and uncomfortable. So, this is the problem and we are also working as a technology company to help the retailers and consumers to win trust in the product again. To tell them, when we open in June or July, they tell them not to be afraid as this product is safe for you. That is why, all the experience that we are gaining through sanitization or medical material, with experts from medical army , we are now going to use all this experience to help our industry. 

    We need to make the consumer trust the product so that it is safe, and they can shop again. They need to be sure that this textile material cannot harm their health. This is the main thing and the short-term solution on which we all need to concentrate. There is no sense in opening the stores if no one is going to buy. And if no one is going to buy, then all the manufacturers and our customers will not have orders and if they are not going to have orders, we are not going to have orders. So, our first thing is to recover the trust of the consumer in the health and safety of textile pros. With this focus, we have a team of 15 engineers that are working in masks sanitization are now working in textile sanitization. All our innovation teams including 40 people are working on this project. We have invested a substantial amount also in this project because we think for us people on the planet is first, but the textile industry is in our heart. 

    We think that in this moment, we should help the brands and retailers. Without them, there is no industry , therefore we need to put all our efforts.. Some people criticize and cancel all the orders, but we should think that stores are closed, and they might not open and we need to help them.

    Sandeep:

    Do you think it is possible to have at the retail level that there is some machine that can sanitize the product and give them again so that the consumer is assured that whatever he is touching is safe?

    Enrique:

    I still don’t know what the model is because in their minds it seems simple but in reality, it is not so simple. As COVID-19 is a killer, so we need to be sure that whatever we do is 100% perfect. It is not about fast, now it’s about fast and better because we are playing with the health of the people. So, I don’t know if there is a system like that but believe me the one thing I learned from this experience is that a development project that normally in Jeanologia takes 6 months, we make in only 1 week. How is that possible? Just because our people are working 24 /7, they were highly motivated, they were focusing on only one thing. So, I learn that we can do things faster and better. So, our team is working and within a month, we will be having some answers and will be making some presentations.

    Sandeep:

    This is amazing because this team effort at this time with your inspiration and the feeling to help a community is so strong and your team is working so fast and so hard for this. 

    Enrique:

    I know everybody is suffering and the economic disaster is everywhere. Everyone is trying to survive, but this time we need to not only protect our castle but also the spirit of humanity. For this, we need to do good things. It is the time of the companies who put the people and planet before profit. It is the time for collaboration of the companies and trusting our customers. We are at Mission zero right now and as a company we will refuse to work with the companies that will contaminate. It is the time to react all together.

    Sandeep:

    That is an amazing and a visionary statement to take a stand of this kind which you are taking.

    Enrique:

    One more thing I would like to mention, clothing is very important, but material is very important too and fabric is important as well. This is very important. It is going to be how we manufacture the fabric. It’s not only for 4 months, I want to make sure that when I start in my factory, I should have the right fabric for manufacturing. The fabric is going to help the Mission zero to succeed. We need all the powerful minds together to work on this in the denim industry. We are working with G2 Dynamic and with collaboration with different companies to take the fabric finishing to another level.

    Sandeep:

    So now, one more aspect is the health and wellness of the product. So, when we are talking about fabric, do you think the basic character of the fabric also needs to change in terms of adding some features like antimicrobial and other treatments? So, do you think these kinds of treatments at the fabric level and the washing level should be increased for the health of the people?

    Enrique:

    As I told you before there are 2 things – short term and long term. In the short term, there is only one priority , recover the trust of consumers . If all these treatments help in recovering the trust of the consumer, they are welcome. Target is to recover the consumer. 

    Don’t think about yourself, or what you are doing, think about the final consumer, what they need. Number 1 , they need to feel safe and number 2 , they need to make sure they use the product from the machine which is safely producing them .In the jeans community , we want to be the first industry to tell the world that we are 100% mission zero with zero emissions.

    Sandeep:

    The issue I see here is that companies are already financially weak due to this crisis whether they have funds to invest for sustainability or not because this has always been the issue why sustainability was taken properly earlier ?

    Enrique:

    The moment is perfect because the company who was producing 40000 jeans per day will now reduce to only 10000 per day. So , you don’t need to do anything to reduce pollution you just need to start on a small scale. 

    If you want to re-start your business the same way as it was before COVID-19, there is no way that can happen and it’s not realistic. You need to invest in the private investors, consolidate to be competent in the market. 400 denim mills in the world is not sustainable. The biggest manufacturer , Crystal , is not even producing 1 % of the jeans consumed in the world. Big brands like Levis, is not producing more than 4-5 %. So, this is not consolidation. We have to start as small, and then we have to grow from there but do it in the right way. Now we need to gain the consumer’s trust through sanitization and through sustainability.

    Sandeep:

    The apparel and textile will be high tech as compared to the present scenario.

    Enrique:

    Yes , absolutely . The first thing we can see in the future is no 12-month planning or a 6 month planning. It’s all about on demand engineering, about quality, sustainability.

    Sandeep:

    So it is a refined form of fast fashion where the weaker parts of it are removed and we are looking at fast creation of products with good quality and sustainability.

    Enrique:

    YEs, it’s about reacting fast to a consumer trend and on demand manufacturing is about producing rather than selling. But occurring fashion is about understanding what the customer buys before they buy. But this is the long term but now we have to concentrate on the short term.

    Sandeep:

    So before we finish , let us take a few questions from our Instagram viewers. First one is “What is your idea of laundry business?”

    Enrique:

    Stop the discharge, the potassium permanganate, a combination of technology , in a complete way , try to connect to new technology.

    Sandeep:

    The next question is from Grandtex, “How Jeanologia is taking the part of the circularity denim forward?”

    Enrique:

    If we define circularity in denim, we need to think first that 15 % of the products from the manufacturers are never sold, never go to anybody’s wardrobe. So, the first thing to remove this is on demand manufacturing. Then upcycling and recycling is very important. As a technology company, we are working on how can we help sanitization to process like , upcycling , recycling , design garments that can be recycled in a simple way.

    This is not a big problem with cotton because it is biodegradable, but polyester is something that is killing our planet. We are trying to work on that. First we will stop emission and second, we will re – use. But if we will still make the things which nobody wears , then it makes no sense.

    Sandeep:

    We all really got the point and first of all I would really like to thank you for all this initiative that you have taken for helping the global community in terms of this crisis. Making your contributions to keep people safe and secure the future. That is an amazing contribution by you and your Jeanologia family. So, we thank you to all the large no of people who were a part of this conversation. Thank You once again and it’s been a great pleasure.

    Enrique:

    Thank you and please don’t forget that we at Jeanologia, we are doing this not in our name but in the name of all our customers and all the people in the denim community. Thank you all of you.

    Video

  • Albert Candiani : In A #CovidTimes Talk

    Albert Candiani : In A #CovidTimes Talk

    Continuing our series of #Covidtimes talk and its huge impact on our lives and business , we speak to Alberto Candiani from the globally well known Candiani Mills Italy . Sandeep Agarwal speaks to him on various impacts of this crisis and Alberto shares his candid and insightful views about the situation and how he sees it will affect our industry. Here we bring a transcript of the talk.

    Sandeep

    Hi Alberto, Very Good Morning , It’s too early there. How are you and how’re you doing ?

    Alberto

    Hi Sandeep,Good Morning, it is still dark here. All good here, I hope the same for you guys.

    Sandeep

    Thank You, everything is fine here. How are you coping with the current situation at personal and professional level?

    Alberto

    Well, the situation here went out of control when our region became one of the most affected regions in the entire europe. We are still under lockdown, everything is closed here and we do not have any other solution to limit the outbreak. But now the government is thinking as to how to resume things gradually. We may see a phased resumption from May 4th, but as of now we are under lockdown.

    Sandeep

    There are a lot of things expected to change post pandemic. How long it would take to come back to normality ,and what would be the new normal ?

    Alberto

    It’s a good question. More than normality, I think we should talk about ADAPTATION. I’m afraid of that if we will ever go back to normality but I’m sure there will be a new normality which we all have to adapt to and that will be depending on social distancing and other types of practices which will certainly change our society probably longer than the adaptation of time itself.

    Sandeep

    Do you see in these times digital communication and digital tools are coming very important and how even after this crisis they are going to be a part of our new normality?

    Alberto

    Communication is becoming key, connection is the only way or tool now to keep going. In my case we run pretty large textile operations and if you don’t produce, there will be no much communication. We made a miracle by finalising the last collection. We’ve got to ship it out right before the shutdown and the past two weeks have been very interesting as the market is “working” remotely from home. We did put together a very amazing presentation about a very good collection considering we rushed it in the month of March.

    I hope our industry is willing to learn more about it, so you want to feed people with more information and deeper information and yes communication is key. It also needs to be successful when you want to show the difference between your product and the others, but it has to be very honest too. We have to be a little more conscious during this time as this is the great time for fake news, but it should be no more time for fake marketing.

     We make denim and again we only have to create more interest in people, these is something that denim is lacking quite a lot being it’s the most democratic fabric in the world. It’s such a big industry and it should be as popular as music.. again we need to bring it out there.Sustainability is giving a greater push to make Denim more interesting to the people and I believe that we’re on the right path, as Candiani we do everything we can to make Denim look cool.

    Sandeep

    One thing I’m curious to know is that your company was founded before the II World War – so your family has faced the IInd World War and now you’ve been facing this war like situation with an invisible enemy. Do you compare what was the situation during the II World War and what is the situation now? What is really the difference between two times ?

    Alberto

    There are so many many common things – this is a very interesting question. Yes our company went through that moment when it was a much smaller company in a domestic market. Today we are a larger company in a global market. I think things did not stop at that time while things did stop this time because of mandatory lockdown. And that gives you a little bit idea of the damage or or the disaster which we actually have been facing.

    That time we’ve fought against visible enemies, this time the enemy is invisible which is more dangerous. I realised after the II world war, my father- my great-grandfather’s company decided to transform the company from a little weaving into a vertically integrated company. So if you look at the 50s and the 60s especially with my grandfather taking the lead when he was only 18 years old, it was reconstruction creating opportunities.

    He faced the right economical conditions which were very supportive that time, now I don’t really know if this disaster is going to create interesting economical conditions anytime soon. The market we envision is something which we will only be able to read after compression and oppression times. Having said that, I believe there will be an opportunity for growth and again.

    Sandeep

    Do you see the big part of supply chain disappearing post this crisis in terms of retailers or in terms of manufacturers and that’s what we are hearing from lot of players would be disappearing and then the ones who are remaining are will be the strong ones would be the one who will really carry over the whole industry in a strong way?

    Albert

    Look, I’m afraid the industry is gonna take a serious hit ,a serious one actually. I don’t know how much of the supply chain will disappear, some people will leave and some people will join in the future but the supply chain will suffer a lot because of the outward business model.

     As Candiani, a Denim mill, we’re sitting at the very beginning of the process, so we have to source the raw materials in order to make our products and that exposes us significantly. If you’re not a solid company, if you’re not a very healthy company, then you can find yourself lost especially if you didn’t manage to scale up your economy.

    I was thinking this morning about small Italian textile companies, they will certainly suffer because now they don’t get nothing and due to uncertainty unfortunately these guys don’t really know what’s gonna happen tomorrow. So there will be loads of problems in the supply chain. especially small vendors. I’m not really talking about my competitors or garment makers. I relate with them, but for sure many smaller companies are not going to survive this. I just wish everybody’s prosperity in this moment, but we have to face reality, if you can’t take this, you would probably fail.

    Sandeep

    In terms of sustainability, your company has such a huge name globally in terms of contributing to sustainability in various ways, also recently you came out with the natural stretch and so many of the technologies you’ve been working on, so what do you see and how do you see sustainability changing after this crisis?

    Albert

    It will change, because I believe we’re all relating ourselves to a very interesting thing which is “health”.. so now we’re looking at the health of human species, we’re looking at health of the planet which is a reflection of sustainability as we were just talking about a potential disaster. I think people are now ready for a fresh start and people have been sitting long enough in their living room to gather more informations about what’s good what’s not. Also this pandemic is touching pretty much everyone.

    I think this is gonna wake up people and will make them more careful, conscious and wishful for better stuff and better in this case necessarily means cleaner and nicer. Most of the time you know it’s just better ingredients that makes a better pair of jeans. Just like food, better ingredients equals better quality and that normally leads to healthier food. I think it is going to be an interesting change and sustainability will certainly play a bigger role.

    Sandeep

    Do you think denim can also contribute in some way in protecting the health of consumers some way with applications with future technological developments?

    Albert

    You know, we can help people to preserve their health by using smarter ingredients and new technologies. I think our KITOTEX applications today can be rediscovered under a different prospective and not only water savings, due to their bacterio-static and anti-microbial properties. This new type of R&D can literally change the game.

    It’s also time to differentiate what is technical from the styptic stereotype. Nowadays much cleaner chemistry is finally available as much as smarter applications of natural products with incredible features. Chitosan , a natural and bio-degradable polymer, probably represents the most amazing solution to several issues.

    We’re doing deeper studies now on our KITOTEX beneficial effects and properties. We will certainly extend this technologies to more dyes and finishings. I am expecting to include several new developments in the second release of our REBOOT collection, since the first release is already in our agents hands and available to our customers.

    Sandeep

    Coming to consumers what are the major changes you see in the consumer perceptions post crisis and will this really differ from region to region?

    Alberto

    The main problem now is related to uncertainty. Uncertainty creates depression and it is not just about the crisis, I’m afraid that consuming behaviour of people will certainly be changed because of three reasons.

    Reason #1 – There will be less money and this will further reduce the purchasing capacity of people and I am talking about from a global perspective , not only in Italy. People will not buy more just because it’s cheap, hopefully they are going to buy less and might be of better quality.

    Reason #2 – Second reason would be Uncertainty itself. People don’t know about the scalability of this damage.

    Reason #3 – Sci-Fi… I am afraid that a lot of people’s behavior will be changed drastically due to the mutation of humans during this time of isolation and social distancing. I can’t say what is gonna happen, but yes, I am positive some of the people’s behavior will change forever after this crisis due to a real mutation. I believe that this is going to be a small part of the population though.

    This pandemic is something which was totally unexpected six months ago and again I was just saying that we cannot really predict which things are going to change post this pandemic.

    Sandeep

    In terms of retailers, those retailers which were direct to consumers are probably better off than those which are pure brick-and-mortar stores ?

    Alberto

    If you look at retail, retail has been suffering a lot already for the past 10 years, I am not talking about the fast fashion retailers, I am talking about all the others. What’s been growing lately is the online market, so retail can now adapt to this new online type of distribution, because we’re talking distribution in the end. Those retailers who are manufacturing quality products should literally find a way to communicate with the consumer. Direct-to-consumer again is an interesting way but it’s also not easy: you have to create confidence, you have to create pretty much the same experience you want to create in the physical store.

    Sandeep

    In terms of product development , how does this pandemic affect the whole cycle? Everybody would like to have a shorter cycle and not want to invest their resources for a long time so this product development cycle, how much do you think it can be reduced?

    Alberto

    I find this entire season thing “bullshit”. I mean look at the seasons, they don’t really make sense. Sometimes we look at crazy product cycles while the product stays pretty much the same or too similar to other products. If it is about a pair of jeans just make sure its own creative cycle makes it relevant enough to look in a way it is supposed to be. I think while we go forward we have to look at more relevant changes. A whole new cycle again for something which is not relevant is representative of a broken system.

    We are mostly talking about basic and core products which are mostly seasonal and don’t require permanent new cycles, but adjustments, corrections, updates.

    Sandeep

    In terms of globalization what changes do you think we’re going to see and what changes do you think will be coming times we’ll see in terms of near-sourcing ?

    Alberto

    Everything will be affected, in fact sourcing has been affected already.The world has been under a global lockdown and its consequences are not known yet. So far as the consequences on the sourcing is concerned, I’d like to tell you that, important customers, especially the big guys are cancelling on full winter and pre-spring 2020 collection.

    I see costs going crazy, cotton going down but I also see crazy speculation probably coming on soft commodities going forward. We believe no one is in control and again this thing will create opportunities at some level. When you face this type of uncertainty you have to you have to wake up early, adapt to the new environment and you have to realise what’s going on before others do so you can create or catch those new opportunities. You just can’t wait, you have to move.

    Sandeep

    If you want to rank and let’s say for the denim fabrics if you were to rank one two three the biggest changes in denim fabrics, what we will see in the coming times biggest biggest three changes which will come in the name as character of denim in the next few months or year let’s say in the near future what would that be number one two and three.

    Albert

    So as you mentioned before technical innovation, so certainly more special finishings which will not necessarily alter characteristics of the jeans. We’re looking at finishings, clear coatings, they’re transparent so on paper they’re are not really interfering with the aesthetics of denim unless you want them to.. unless you want to create something special, something which looks different from usual denim going in a more technical direction.

    I believe what’s gonna change is not really the aesthetics but the contents though. We will find more and more interesting compositions. We will certainly find more and more sustainable stories and sustainable ingredients as well again .

     Every day the industry can be fair and talk about sustainable products more than sustainable stories. At least we have to come up with a sustainable story when we have a sustainable product and make sure your brand talks about it, not just green-marketing style, but also contents. So when I say composition and contents I don’t only refer to the fabrics but also the message and the transparency that this whole process requires in order to be honest while communicating it.

    I believe the future of denim of course is about sustainability, we talked about it a lot before . But in reality we are seeking new paths which finally people can take to increase their knowledge and awareness about the product. We want to go straight to the seed of our cottons, to the nature of our dyes, we want to explore agriculture and link it to the industrial process,. That goes straight back to the nature.

    This is something that people couldn’t see for the past hundred years. They couldn’t see that the items sitting on the shelves of the stores would come from certain fields, certain mills and people did’t really know what’s going on in those fields or those mills. Today the consumer ,which I rather call the citizen , is willing to know more and traceability is the way to create more interest.

    Again storytelling is going to be such a big deal but again you have to tell the story of something good and you have to make something good in order to tell that story. And again that’s gonna change for sure. “Something good” is not only related to the aesthetics but it’s also related to the perception of quality and then the importance that you finally give to your next pair of jeans.

    Sandeep

    What are the main big positives you see from the current situation ?

    Albert

    Well as I said earlier I’m a little scared to talk about opportunities in this moment, I’m not scared to talk about positivity because this can be over, the sooner the better. I can tell you that I am a positive person and people in our industry will be a little more conscious about how vulnerable we are, us, humans, and our industry, our models. I mean we’re working in an industry that constantly overproduces, we’re probably making the world’s biggest landfill.

    The planet is good for everybody and I don’t like to call this particular situation or virus an equalizer, but in a way it has been an equalizer and I really hope we’re not going to go back to the old normality in which the consumer is just a consumer and not a citizen.

    I think we can have some interesting surprises going forward, but for now we know how vulnerable we can be.

    Sandeep

    It was a pleasure talking to you, thank you so much for your time.

    Alberto
    Thank you

    Video

  • Denim Post Covid – Views Of Top Denim Personalities

    Denim Post Covid – Views Of Top Denim Personalities

    In these times of crisis , we are all badly effected and most business is in a turmoil. This includes our fashion and apparel industry which is in throes of a huge disaster as global markets are shut down, retailers are closing their stores affecting the entire supply chain . The future is very uncertain and we really need to make sense of the current situation and understand in some way how it may unfold in the future . Keeping this need in mind, we started our series of talks with some global denim personalities around the world to understand their analysis of today and tomorrow . The views shared have been very insightful and give us an understanding how we may need to plan and repurpose ourselves and our business. Sharing herewith comments and quotes from the experts .

    Adriano Goldschmied

    Next year for sure we’re gonna be down in our business at least by 50%.  It will have a terrible impact on the organizations of all supply chains globally.  It will hit dramatically in countries where textile is a big part of their economic sector. 

     All the digital shopping is going to be booming but they are going to reconsider shopping in a more responsible way. They will buy less and buy better.  Transparency will be more evident and help the consumer make better choices with the information provided. 

    The rule was that we come to the market with new products every six months. We need to change our method of work and to be more open-minded. There is no obligation to make 40+ piece collections.  We should bring new products to the market when it is interesting for the market. This way will be much more simple. 

    The reaction to the new normality will be different in Asia (especially China) & in emerging countries.  People are at home for a long period of time and they are anxious and probably the reaction for them is to go shopping again.  It will probably be a shopping party. On the other side, in America & Europe, consumers will reconsider their way of shopping. 

    When we come out of this pandemic, we will have a new face of our business.

    Complete Talk – Video

    Enrique Silla

    I anticipate that 50 % of the brands and retailers will disappear. This is our calculations. I anticipate that 50 % of the manufacturers will disappear and we will face a very strong very strong consolidation

    Consumers will not buy again a product that has been manufactured by taking care of our rivers , our see and our planet.

    Europe is 10 % online, China is 20 % , but after this China will be 40-50 % online.We need to sell online and we need to completely change our operational models. 

    We anticipate that some countries will be winners like Turkey , Mexico , Portugal.

    We already launched a program on demand manufacturing . We really believed that COVER-19 had accelerated that.

    Video

    Alberto Candiani

    I find this entire season thing a bullshit thing. I mean look at the seasons they don’t really make sense. Sometimes we look at the crazy product cycles for the same product or similar products.

    If It’s a pair of jeans just make sure it’s relevant enough to look in a way it was supposed to be. I think while we go forward we have to look at more relevant changes, the whole new cycle again for something which is not relevant so maybe this break again.

    More special finishings which will not necessarily alter characteristics of the jeans. We’re looking at finishings, they’re transparent so on paper they’re are not really interfering with the aesthetics  of denim unless you want them to , unless you want to create something special something which looks different from usual denim 

    We are now talking about basic core products which are of high quality, which keep on going for a couple of seasons and so I mean this is a complete change in that way.In fact you know it has been started probably something back but still it will continue further and it will be accelerated for.

     The reaction to the new normality will be different in Asia (especially China) & in emerging countries.  People are at home for a long period of time and they are anxious and probably the reaction for them is to go shopping again.  It will probably be a shopping party. On the other side, in America & Europe, consumers will reconsider their way of shopping. 

    When we come out from this pandemic, we will have a new face of our business.

    Video

    Stefano Aldighieri

    There’s no easy solution, but what is going to be interesting to see is how committed they will still be to the whole sustainability and ethical principles,  all these companies. Because one thing is to say that you are committed to doing everything socially right, and ethically right, and environmentally right when things go relatively well, but when you’re into an emergency like this you tend to forget those things.

    You know some time back all brands were racing to see who was the most sustainable company out there up to a few weeks ago?  I want to see how many of those are really, really serious about it, and how many will not stick to those principles because being sustainable means also taking care of your partners in the supply chain, and I know it’s a really really difficult thing to do because at some point you have to decide what you’re going to cut, what are you going to sacrifice, and unfortunately it is human nature to take care of the ones that are closer to you than the ones who are far away.

    Complete Talk

    Video

    Sedef Uncu Aki

    There is a term called REVENGE SHOPPING – which all the countries might see especially countries like China. But in Europe, they are focusing on understanding the situation. 90 % of the stores are open in China but total spending has been decreased by 50 %. Therefore people are not starting to shop right away. What we have seen so far from the previous world crisis is that consumers take 1-2 years before they actually regain their interest in shopping.

    There is a term called REVENGE SHOPPING – which all the countries might see especially countries like China. But in Europe, they are focusing on understanding the situation. 90 % of the stores are open in China but total spending has been decreased by 50 %. Therefore people are not starting to shop right away. What we have seen so far from the previous world crisis is that consumers take 1-2 years before they actually regain their interest in shopping.

    Durability, Built for life, and sustainable, circular design. We are focused on developing eco net-positive, high-quality fabrics. We are engineering for durability and long-lasting comfort and performance, optimizing our usage of recycled cotton, both pre and post-consumer, and creating revolutionary new levels of water- repellency, self-cleaning, anti-bacterial, thermoregulating products.

    Complete Talk | Video

    Albert Tjandra

    By all means, logistics and distribution will definitely change. The supplier needs to be closer to the consumer in this way. All kinds leading to near sourcing will imply sooner or later.

    People who have been in digitalization will keep doing so, and others will start to follow, I had even seen these in our local market which Indonesia just had few digital market-place to go ​e-​comm for textile and apparels, but their rating and sale numbers are spiking up during this situation. 

    The Millenials and Z Gen are the most active visitors for these. And yes, we all know they are roller spenders but somehow they are less dropping attention to identify what the brands are. These are the generation that doesn’t care about names and brand tags. 

    In terms of quantity may also be simply changed, they will not aim for more, instead, they will be very particular on what they want to buy, They will buy in better quality and make better choices.

    Complete Talk | Video Link

    Lucia Rosin

    This huge cancellation really creates a big problem for the workers. Some brands, retailers, need to cancel because they have no orders/garments in the shop. So, for the future, some brands have already started focusing on basic products, well-done products. 

    Focus more on long-lasting products, non-seasonal products because we have SS currently, we need to be ready for winters but some companies are closed. So, we need to create a collection with no season according to my view.

    Complete Talk | Video

    Michelle Bracha

    So maybe instead of a 20 piece collection, a denim collection, we focus on those five things we don’t need to do the other 15 because the five things and things that are going to sell. So much of these products get made and they get marked down, sold off and end up in landfills. Therefore, we have to create less.

    Seasons – I think for the most part yes there will still be some seasonal things like sleeveless tops and five-ounce jeans. Those kinds of things. They will still remain but they’ll be one or two. They won’t be an entire collection and I think that’s the main point.

    I think out of necessity PPE denim may become a category for the short term. I don’t know that it will stick around forever as much as we wear it every day but we will be able to flip back into it. 

    Category of indigo knits that were starting to explode. Everybody’s just waiting until they can figure out how to do it more efficiently so that’ll probably grow. 

    But others may change their way of shopping.  By all means, logistics and distribution will definitely change. The supplier needs to be closer to the consumer in this way. All kinds leading to near sourcing will imply sooner or later.

    On some possibility stage, along with consumer demand changes, denim will be provided as a safety protection product somehow. 

    We had been enjoying the privilege of having premium denim for better margin, for just appearance and feel.  Now they will ask what premium can give them a better and healthier life enhancement?

    There might be a temporary advantage for the factories that are close to the markets, so for the US, I think there will be Mexican factories. For Europe, you’re going to probably see Turkey.

    Complete Talk | Video

    Alice Tonello

    It is the right time to think about the volume that we are producing, to think about the quality, to think about how sustainability has been used inappropriately. I think some deeper thought process is required when we go back to normality.

    I don’t know if it will be a priority for the consumer when we will return back to normality to buy a pair of jeans but I believe that they will take care much more about a lot of things including water, chemicals, and other resources exploited to make a pair of jeans. 

    I feel retailers will be more comfortable having very short runs and they don’t want to wait for long lead time, items in production which are to be delivered in five to four months and to be in stores in six months. So probably they would like to have shorter bets – for two months or three months. 

    Consumers now have a break in their spending and they will get more time to think about what they are doing. This may lead them to re-evaluate what is the value of spending money on goods. So my view is that we must value high quality, more durable, sustainable products. I think this pandemic will go down in history as a great global reset in the system and the consumers really start thinking about these values.

    Complete Talk | Video

    Neeraj Sachdeva 

     I think one thing that is gonna make a huge comeback is the brick-and-mortar store. I think all of us will rush back to engage with humanity as you said to actually touch t feel because of the product and I think currently three weeks in I’m a bit dizzy and I’m a bit digital afflicted and I will be okay not to see my computer screen for hours and hours and hours then because that’s all I do ten hours a day now. 

    So I think this season analogy has been abandoned as the collections are coming after every alternate month, I guess. So I do not think that there is anything new about it. I guess we should ask retailers not to produce in such heavy quantities. 

    Complete Talk

    Video

    Vasco Pizzaro

    I think the measurement mechanics of sustainability needs to be expanded a little bit. Especially in how you measure it because I think it’s that the standards can be deceitful now today because I know that there are a lot of people that have their companies based on ZHDC or other parameters.

    The producer and manufacturer need to be more united, irrespective of the competition. I often wonder about how it could be, if we the producers and the manufacturers and the laundry houses and all the little guys unite themselves.

    Instead of seasons, you see more through with presentation and instead of being colder, this winter season or fall or spring or summer, you kinda see a flow and you see variances that you couldn’t see in another place. I think the frequency with which we have been launching our collections have already made it seasonless.

    I believe that if you stay and if you have the ability to endure this time it can be very beneficial for you in the future.

    Complete Talk |Video

    Dilek Erik

    These days, we’ve been living three major social changes. One of them is Women Empowerments or Gender Equality, Unisex fashion let say and it changed fashion. The second thing is Sustainability which is being talked about quite a few times and the third thing is Technology. Whenever we talk about technology, we think about computers or laptops or the internet. We’re not using technology in fashion yet, only a few companies and that too in very limited ways.  This is going to change.

    We need to develop smart habits and smart fashion. Whoever develops smart fashion and connects it with the right technology and finishing will last for a long time. Smart fabrics, which were developed by Levis in a partnership with Google, and these kinds of innovations will be required in the coming years. So this is the future and creates more and more demand. 

    I think so, also there will be a paradigm change in the presentation of the products and also in the ways exhibitions have been happening right now. The concept of online sourcing has already been introduced and much more will come into the picture very soon. We are now doing video shoots of our products and involving more and more digital solutions.

    We always say less is more and good, but we do not practice as all the brands push people to buy more and more by offering discounts, so we need to be a little more honest. We talk about sustainability but if we sell like this, I do not think this is a sustainable practice. We should focus more on quality and long-lasting products but I don’t think this is happening very soon, it will take time. 

    Complete Talk |Video

    Tricia Carey 

    We have this terrible way of promotion all the time​, you need to have 60% off in order to sell apparel because customers are just trained that way​.​ I wish that the US retailers operated more like some of the European retailers and with sales twice a year and that’s it. Start fresh in some ways​.​

    W​e will have this time to re-evaluate and look for clothing which will become more of protection.  Now we look at how we can protect ourselves against getting this virus. Whether that’s masks or other apparel. Also now we look at how our apparel protects us and keeps us safe. This is also a mindset change.

    S​o I think we will be back to basics. That’s​ happening. People will be​ ​again looking for comfort. They will be looking for fabrics that can protect​ ​them, whether it’s antimicrobial or antibacterial finishes. So I think​ ​there will be some changes. I also think knits will increase. 

    There’s a comment here about a season less also being long-lasting and this goes back to consumption changes.

    I would add to that performance. Regional or near sourcing definitely.  Sustainability Environmental and social concerns

     A lot of things are going to be virtual and digitalization of most of the process is going to happen now. 

    Complete Talk |Video

    Katsu Manabe

    We need to decide to change how to communicate. We have to use digital ways to communicate with people. The export can be made smoother because we can contact online and can support afterward also. Secondly, we need to focus on production, because after this many people would have lost their job and it is very difficult. 

    Complete Talk | Video

    From the above talk some key words emerge :

    Seasonless – Near Shoring – Sustainabiity with humanity – Quality Over Quantity – New Categories (Health & Welness, Loungewear , Homewear etc)- On Demand Production – Digitalized Presentations and Developments etc

    All these point to a changed face of business which is likely to be much smaller and more agile and highly consolidated once it comes back on its feet .

    We will come out with the second part of our talks in another article with many other experts sharing their views . Do keep tuned.

  • COVID Times – A Talk with Albert Tjandra

    COVID Times – A Talk with Albert Tjandra

    Continuing our series of #Covidtimes – How are you coping, Sandeep Agarwal speaks to Albert Tjandra – Director of Grandtex Indonesia about the current crisis to get an Indonesian perspective and how Grandtex as a denim mill is evolving itself during these tough times. Albert shares his candid views on all questions during the Instagram live talk

    Sandeep
    Hi Albert, How are you? How’s Indonesia is doing?

    Albert
    Hi Sandeep, How are you? We are good so far, trying our best to stay healthy and doing what is so literally called “homework” for now.

    Technically we are late/short on disclosing the fact and details at the beginning, where people all over are wondering if this 4th largest populations country really not least affected by the virus.
    We have started applying the Big Scale of Social/Physical Distancing Policy, where numerous rules set to bound the mobilization without saying not allowed. Certain numbers and distance set for public transport mode. 

    Keeping pushing people to stay home with new law penalties and enforcement. Limit the official works/ office in related only for supply chain and health assessment ,only F&B retails, small grocery store/market, basic needs shop, drugstore, bank and energy, electrical, communication, hospital and medicare allowed to be operated in certain hours. The rest are closed.

    Sandeep
    How Indonesian Industry is responding to the crisis?

    Albert
    The pandemic shuttered factories in late March. Companies in all regions of Indonesian facing huge layoffs,  labor termination, and closing. The travel industry is the most affected by the current. Retailers are on the same path followed. 

    We do have 2 different markets for Indonesian textile and garments. Both are contributing to the biggest percentage of Gross Domestic Product for the Indonesian Industry. Its a big population and big market indeed for Indonesian, the fact that we do have one major season, which is Eid in the next 40days.

    Locals are supposed to start distributing the goods to retail for new clothes. Garments are on final seasons to complete the productions and begin with logistics.

    Then this issue comes up so suddenly and heavily spread out.  Stores closed, the factory closed, delay payment and soured cash flow. People will not be spending on clothes, which usually a major category for locals during the festival.

    They are going home to the village, being unemployed, where its kind disrupting the government plan of encouraging social distancing since the beginning. 

    Export has suffered significant numbers of cancellations and postponements of orders. Indonesia is currently exporting 14 Billion USD to world textile and garment, US is major 5B$,  Japan 2B$ and EU 1,5B with the rest of the regions. The impact on current crisis is massive. We are seeing lots of factories closed. Goods abandoned unshipped and not knowing payments will be honored. 

    The Government is working on all measures that will be incorporated as a stimulus package for almost US$ 1Billion , aimed at easing rules for export -imports as supply chains continue to be disrupted by the virus spread. They are also working to relax the income tax and import duty to boost production. But this is truly beyond the safety net. The uncertainty about the duration of the crisis weighs heavily on the industry.

    Sandeep
    How are you coping personally and professionally?

    Albert
    I think as many people globally ,I share the same experience to continue contributing to the industry by working from home. That should be not be an issue for most of the Indonesian business level, The system and digital world really put us through this tough situation with tremendous help and effort. 

    Our office team located in the central city of Jakarta had been doing social distancing as early protocol months ago and stayed domestically home for the last 10-14 days for now. The main goal for everyone here today is to stay healthy. Holding on digital technology to have the meeting virtually, we were able to engage everyone simultaneously and try to be even more efficient.

    While some part of us from the production unit at the factory is still running, with very tight scrutiny following government protocol , we do have a thousand workers in the facility who currently put on hold partially for the day in and day home policy to maintain the social distancing.

    Sandeep
    How is your company / industry operation affected and how you are reinventing yourself?

    Albert
    Coming in the month of April, there are no other mills (denim) running production in our region . Safety and health will always be a priority, so by the next 2weeks, perhaps we will declare shut down, as an extension of the Muslim holiday, which will be very long indeed. 

    Coronavirus lockdowns aren’t the only thing affecting our industry’s ability to pay our workers. Most of us will say the main problem is unreasonable demands from big clients. We’ve also experienced demands for cancellations for goods that are ready or are work in progress, or discounts for outstanding payments and for goods in transit. 

    They are also asking for 30 to 120-day extensions on previously agreed payment terms. Some brands are showing a true sense of partnership and a high level of ethics in trying to ensure at least enough cash flow to pay workers.

    Sandeep
    Any CSR initiatives during the current times in relation to coronavirus by your company?

    Albert
    Yes. Once the operations taking a slow pace, what we can assure to our nearby environment, by distributing more supplies and water needed for the villages around the facility. We are employing more unemployed workers to maximize our operations.

    We are producing fabric masks optimizing our capacity. We are not doing this because there is a demand, but because it’s the right thing to do.

    Sandeep
    How do you think the fashion world is going to change after things come under control? 

    Albert
    Well, I guess it will definitely come from Retail and Consumer point of view, who will drive back the whole industry. 

    They had waited too long at home and some are eager to put all effort and excitement to go on the shopping floor again especially for the medium to long-run prospect. We do have a certain society here from medium core buying power, who just simply dying to go browse over fashions and step in retail stores once this pandemic issues over.
     
    But others may change their way of shopping.  By all means, logistics and distribution will definitely change. The supplier needs to be closer to the consumer in this way. All kind leading to near sourcing will imply sooner or later.

    People who had been in digitalization will keep remain doing so, and others will start to follow, I had even seen these in our local market which Indonesia is just had few digital market-place to go e-comm for textile and apparels, but their rating and sale numbers are spiking up during this situation. 

    The Millenials and Z Gen are being the most active visitor for these. And yes, we all know they are roller spender but somehow they are less dropping attention to identify what the brands are. These are the generation that doesn’t care about names and brand tags. 

    These are the direct buyers for the direct user, they may have brand loyalty but always open for new evolution immediately. 
    In terms of quantity may also be simply changed, they will not aim for more, instead, they will be very particular on what they want to buy, They will buy in better quality and making better choices.

    So yes, definitely we will see a lot of changes in the fashion world as soon as all these are over and lifted. We just do hope every player in the chain industry, from manufacturer to retailer will have and provide the right products that consumer wants.

    Sandeep
    Do you see possibilities of creating Personal Protection Denim (PPD)?

    Albert
    At the current stage, more units are pivoting their production to manufacture such products as medical masks and gowns, including Grandtex – this also leads the reason why we still allowed to operate during the time. 

    However, I think we have to be reasonable and responsible for what we produce. There will be a limitation on cotton woven to get into the medical parameter which has a concern with human healthiness and safety. 
    On some possibility stage, comes along with consumer demand changes, denim will be provided as a safety protection product somehow. 

    We had produced highly constructed denim fabrics with special anti-burn finished and water repellent applications for some Mining/Tobacco company uniforms. We are now applying antivirus/anti-bacteria with water repellent finish on our woven denim tops range for blue medical uniform 1st layer before their actual spunbond protection unit. These are more into general performance fabrics. 

    But when it comes to denim as daily fit casual wear with protection applications, I think these will take some part of consumer mindset consideration in coming. 

    Sandeep
    Do you see Denim becoming more technical?

    Albert
    Indeed it will. Like we discussed earlier, people are eager to know what’s inside the materials. Before they want to know what’s inside the garment, now whats inside the materials, what kind of cotton, how friendly the dyestuff and washed chemicals are that we use. 

    When it comes to performance instead of appearance, details on the property will be transparently projected. Then suddenly buying denims not only for the look and fit but also how it constructed will be more appreciated. That’s the shifting of premium denim. 

    Sandeep
    Do you expect Consumer behavior changes post Covid to be different in different regions?

    Albert
    The consumer will evolve with the situation differently. Some regions will have earlier store opening will lead consumer closer to the store floor, while others may have enjoyed exploring the digital platform to source products . Again subject to different regions’ situations indeed.

    For sure, Slow fashion will play major role impressions, More transparent and committed to sustainable production will be needed. Ready where people can find out the impact of the brands they want to buy just as easily as they can see the price or size

    Sandeep
    Two key changes in the basic character of denim as an apparel product Post Corona.

    Albert
    Well, denim not again will be as structured as simple as it was. Two changes will be:

    1. Denim as basic casual wear means People will wear basic denim for better life performance simple jeans.
    2. Denim as basic casual fabric means, whatever current interest simplicity that reflects the originality of denim fabric plus includes green processed within. 

    Sandeep
    How do you think consumer will evolve in his preferences after going through this crisis

    Albert
    One thing for sure, consumers becoming more alert on the information, craving for the content and property over physical appearance. They will start looking at what’s inside. What kind of materials the manufacture use. What will be the hygienic performance that the brand pushes for after these issues happened globally?

    Some may still keep brand loyalty but mostly they will be more realistic in making a purchase. There will be more on anti-bacteria/ anti-virus/ less odor breathable denim jeans compare to fashion nice-looking novelties fit. 

    We had been enjoying the privilege of having premium denim for better margin, for just appearance and feel.  Now they will ask what premium can give them on better and healthier life enhancement?

    Sandeep
    Sustainability – Your thoughts considering the existing situation? 

    Albert
    The definition of sustainable fashion has changed over the years, and yet global fashion still searches platform aims to bring some clarity. Sustainable fashion defines as protecting the future of our planet and the people through design, how we create and wear our clothes, by carefully managing resource use to reduce waste and climate impacts, protecting the welfare of the human being, and the assurance of the safety and fair treatment of workers all the way down the supply chain.

    People start talking in advance on Biodegradable jeans, which are a stretch of jeans made from renewable resources and free from plastics and micro-plastics. This is really sustainable product-driven.

    Sandeep
    and how it will change?

    Albert
    Denim remains one of the most-wanted sustainable products. In a world where resources are diminishing and landfills are overflowing with discarded garments, it’s our duty to look for renewable resources 
    So yes Sustainability will go on as it remain as the soul of the apparel industry. But will the Recycle and Reuse garments gain more consciousness after the global pandemic? Are people start asking questions on the should we still pursue on pre-owned” and “secondhand fashion, that will need further clarification. 

    Sandeep
    What do you think are the main positives from the current situation

    Albert
    Perhaps when no one can control the virus or even the economic fallout but we can control how we react to the crisis. I am very positive about our prospects for the future—surfing through the crisis in the short-to-medium term and in the long-term recovery. I believe if we are flexible and efficient enough, we will be well-positioned, to get through these difficulties.

    We are looking for ways to drive efficiency and speed to market and reduce waste while improving the company’s operations through and beyond the pandemic. I had seen a lot of chances to reshape and get slim light for the company, people will look at products in more different aspects, asking the different ways of sourcing.

    Thus the crisis gives us an opportunity to not just renew the business, but to reset it for the future. Garment manufacturing has been diversifying away from China for around ten years due to China’s high costs. We will just have to play out our strengths, go as efficiently as we can. 

    Sandeep
    Thanks, Albert. Pleasure talking to you and see you soon. Stay Safe and Please take care.

    Albert
    Thank you so much for the time Sandeep, as hoping we will keep in touch and share what’s happening in the industry,  Wish you all the best and stay safe.

    Note: We will be continuing these series of daily talks – with normal timings being 10.30 am NY time / 3.30 pm UK time and 8.00 pm India time at our Instagram handle. Do follow to be notified.

    Video link of the talk


  • Adriano Goldschmied Speaks About Covid 19 Impact On Apparel Industry

    Adriano Goldschmied Speaks About Covid 19 Impact On Apparel Industry

    When the times are tough , we need to look up to people with vision , people who have shown us the path in the past and who will show the light to us for the future. In our industry , perhaps the most prominent personality on this pedestal is Adriano Goldschmied – The Godfather Of Denim . He needs no introduction for any one of us and it is upto leaders like these that we seek answers and inspiration from , during the unprecedented times that all of us are going through. It was indeed a pleasure and honor for me that he agreed to share his views on current situations and future indications for our industry. I spoke to him on the various aspects of the coronavirus crisis (at our Instagram ) and its possible impact on us and how we need to adjust ourselves and find solutions . He shared his erudite views backed by decades of experience in his very humane and humble way. The immediate future looks tough but we need to be resilient and adjust ourselves in innovative ways – is his fundamental message.

    Sandeep:
    First of all I want you to thank you for joining this discussion it’s such a pleasure and honor for me.

    Adriano:
    It is an amazing opportunity- thank you very much .We are experiencing first hand what it means to be digital . It is a good exercise because it looks like this will be our future.

    Sandeep:
    Absolutely, I agree with you.So how’s everything in LA ? Is it getting better than before?

    Adriano:
    The situation in LA is very similar to other parts of America, but better than New York . Let’s say, every business is closed and only essential facilities are open. People might need to stay home long time, which is not a good thing.  Basically, we are suggested to stay at home, but free spirited Americans are still going around. In Italy, for instance, is different because they can pose heavy fines if you disobey a state/federal mandate.  We hope Americans who love freedom & independence understand the importance of staying home and can contribute to everyone’s safety.

    Sandeep:
    Absolutely, because it’s for everybody and it’s totally unexpected and we all are actually trying to find a way out what to do .We have to find a way out of this situation. First of all , I really hope that all your friends and relatives and family , everybody is okay and healthy.

    Adriano:s
    Everybody is fine including my staff.  Let’s say, I really care about my team. They are the biggest value of the company.  I ordered them to stay home even before the California government ordered people to stay home.  We are working remotely from home, but all our mills in China are reopened and operating at 100%.  Our business is already very digital.  That is why we can adapt easily to the new situation.  But we do miss the touch & feel portion of our business.  This is a big moment of responsibility for us all. It is in the hands of every single person to help and to try to arrive to a good conclusion.

    Sandeep:
    So what do you think of the situation ? how it’s really going to affect all of us because we are seeing massive issues going on,  the stores are closing down , bankruptcies are coming , the supply chain is getting totally disrupted. What is really going to happen in fashion industry and denim industry in particular ?

    Adriano:
    My feeling is that we do not realize the magnitude of this disaster.  Everyone is very uncomfortable.  All the stores are closed, all the companies are closed.  We are doing our best to do our work remotely at home, but I don’t think we realize the real consequences of this situation in our business.  The reality is that we don’t have a complete vision on the impact on our business.  The work has turned more towards a digital platform.  This is very difficult for my generation. Personally for me, I am used to having physical contact with the people, with my team.  Working digitally is something we are all forced to learn today to maintain business.  I think this is a positive thing. What we have done in the past by physical contact can be done digitally & remotely today saving a lot of time. We will continue to work this way even after we get back to normal.  The current mood right now is very emotional and the only button that we have in front of us is the panic button.  Instead, we need to be ready to press the restart button.  This will require us to have a better vision of how the situation is revolving. The consequences of the coronavirus will change the way we make business decisions.  This situation is going to have long lasting effects and we have to think to take on a bigger moral responsibility.

    I believe this will forcibly push our industry in a positive way towards sustainability & circular fashion.  It will also push the consumers to buy products that are more durable, more valued, in a more responsible way.  The consumers will indicate to the mills and manufacturers to go towards this direction. Next year for sure we’re gonna be down in our business at least by 50%.  It will have a terrible impact in the organizations of all supply chains globally.  It will hit dramatically in countries where textile is a big part of their economic sector. 

    I don’t want to be negative, but the denim business has been changing the social life in a lot of countries.  Particular in developing countries like Bangladesh, Pakistan & many others.  So my mind is going to the millions and millions of people that rely on manufacturing jobs not just as work, but also their livelihood.  They don’t have other options and their governments have limited means to assist them.  When we overcome the coronavirus and go back to normal, we will have to adjust to a new “normal.”  It will not be like switching a light on.  The industry has to find a formula to understand the new reality and reinvent the way we work. Even though it is difficult for all, for countries like America, it will be easier to be able to help people.  Unfortunately the poor will be the ones who will pay the biggest price.

    Sandeep:
    It is a really very tough situation and I don’t know if you are not able to think about solutions , it is really very difficult for us to really think about solutions.There seem to be no way out but in terms of consumption patterns by the consumers what changes do you think will happen in terms and the end of the consumer? What would they look forward after these crisis?

    Adriano:
    It’s clear we face difficulties, but I’m positive that life will go on.  Everyday we will have a new morning.  The reaction to the new normality will be different in Asia (especially China) & in emerging countries.  People are at home for a long period of time and they are anxious and probably the reaction for them is to go shopping again.  It will probably be a shopping party.  On the other side, in America & Europe, consumers will reconsider their way of shopping. 

    The consumers are more mature and not afraid to change the approach that they have to shop.  All the digital shopping is going to be booming but they are going to reconsider shopping in a more responsible way. They will buy less and buy better.  Transparency will be more evident and help the consumer make better choices with the information provided. This is the direction that we have been pushing for for years and years.

    Sandeep:
    Do you think fast fashion will move out? Is Fast fashion is going to finish ?

    Adriano:
    We have different reactions from different parts of the world.  One way is that fashion will be more important.  Fashion has an important role because it is creating an emotion for the buyer.  Fashion is stimulating this approach that the consumer is thinking that they cannot live without the new fashion.  Consumers of fashion are interested in new products, fits & washes all the time.  In my opinion, the market will change. 

    The rule was that we come to the market with new products every six months. We need to change our method of work and to be more open minded. There is no obligation to make 40+ piece collections.  We should bring new products to the market when it is interesting for the market. This way will be much more simple. 

    We need a more digital approach that is available anywhere, all the time.  The other way is that the consumer is going into more basic, simple & clean products.  Basics is not all about price.  As transparency is more available, they will choose products with more value and durability.  Our consumers are ready for a lot of different price points.  The price will reflect the real value of the product. 

    I am one of the original leaders of premium denim.  I remember when we could take a mediocre quality denim and put a hefty price like $300 dollars and call it “premium.”  That is fake premium.  It was taking advantage of the emotion of the consumer and not providing a real premium product.  Now consumers have information and choices to select better quality products.  Recycling and reuse of garments is taking a lot of attention.  When we come out from this pandemic, we will have a new face of our business.

    Sandeep:
    Well as we see the reports, we understand that this situation in some way will continue for at least one year or one and a half years till the time we have really have a vaccine.So do you think with so many people working from home will also affect the kind of clothes the people will be buying ?

    Adriano:
    I think there are a lot of things that can be done digitally. For instance, I am a partner with MYR , a digital platform to design & develop remotely.  With this technology, you can control the development and production digitally and remotely. 

    This is a very important step to reduce cost and is much more sustainable.  On another level, the trade shows will play a different role as we work with at digital platform.  This will save us time & money.  Think about design, with a digital platform we will be able to have a closer relationship with the vendors. 

    This will also enable us to have a closer connection with the market for a faster exchange of ideas.  We don’t know how this will work, but for sure it will be the new way, our new normality.  The current situation is like a tsunami.  Only the good & strong will survive.  The panorama of the mills will be reshaped by acquisitions with companies that understand the need to switch to a more digital platform.

    Sandeep:
    I really want to thank you for your wonderful views and people are really happy to watch you speak and understand from you what’s happening around.So I really thank you for everything that you know.

    Adriano:
    Thank you very much. I wish to our people and all the humanity to be healthy and that this will pass soon.  We need to be ready for big changes and find a way to make our business better.  I hope the industry will think in a much more moral way and think about all the affected people to guarantee a better life and not just about the profits.  Thank you very much and good luck.

  • COVID Times – A Talk with Vasco Pizzaro

    COVID Times – A Talk with Vasco Pizzaro

    Sandeep
    We are in difficult times, how is Portugal doing?

    Vasco
    Personally, I have been home for voluntary quarantine for the last three weeks because I have a history of asthma since my younger days so they advised me to stay at home.

    In terms of our company, we’ve already decided about two weeks ago in order to protect our workers to stop the activity for now. Portugal has not yet closed all non-essential activities and a lot of textile companies are adapting themselves to producing masks and protective gear for medical healthcare.

    In our case, we don’t have that expertise so we are contributing in trying to stop the spread of the virus by sending our 400 employees to home to ensure their safety. We’ve also ensured the timely payment of their salaries during this period.

    We are adapting ourselves accordingly and reinventing but unfortunately, most of the shops around Europe are closed, Spain has been hit very hard from this virus. I don’t know much about the Asian market but if you could give me some insights, I would be able to understand the situation of that market also.

    Sandeep
    I’m a little surprised because it seems that Asian countries are doing a little better as compared to American and European countries . Asian countries probably took a lot of precautions and still things are working, their shops are open people are going to the markets some of the factories are open, though of course, they are closing down for a few days now . Other countries like Singapore, Thailand or Taiwan which are very close to China, these have done a very good job there. 

    Vasco

    Yes, they’ve set very good examples as there were very close to China and countries like Hong Kong, Singapore and Macau have controlled the situation very well and I also know that Japan is working because we buy fabric from there so I just talked them yesterday so I know that they are working but what I’ve been read is that Cambodia, India have taken serious measures. 

    Sandeep
    We are in complete lockdown, no factories no shops are opened. Everything is closed all over India 


    Vasco
    Yeah, I think the lockdown is the best measurement that they can do because it will help try to mitigate the spread. We should try to be positive now and we have to stay strong because otherwise, it is really going to be difficult. But I think it will help in the future and it will help us differently by initiating a dialogue of real sustainability and not the greenwashing which has been growing a lot for a couple of years. 

    Sandeep
    I would like to hear more about this, please explain a little more, I guess this is very important.

    Vasco
    I think the measurement mechanics of sustainability needs to be expanded a little bit. Especially in how you measure it because I think it’s that the standards can be deceitful now today because I know that there are a lot of people that have their companies based on ZHDC or other parameters.

    I think that the parameters they are based on the laws of each country are deceitful because some laws can be more strict than others and also I think that people are not looking well at the waste in terms of – closing the land fills and the number of clothes that are being destroyed every year but the problem is that we have been producing more and I think people don’t look at the overproduction as much as they are focusing now on the other factors of sustainability before the product we made. 

    The producer and manufacturer need to be more united, irrespective of the competition. I often wonder about how it could be, if we the producers and the manufacturers and the laundry houses and all the little guys unite themselves.

    I always wonder that more people from our side of the industry is doing a lot of things for our world everyone wants to give better wages for their workers, everyone wants to give better conditions to their workers , everyone wants to be more sustainable, every one of us wants to spend as less water spends as as possible to create nice things or to develop new things and I believe there’s also the side that is always taking that advantages that we are creating and benefiting more from it but I believe that if we can unite ourselves and if we can understand each other more, It would be very good. 

    Sandeep
    Post-Pandemic, do you think E-commerce will do better than the brick-mortar stores?

    Vasco

    Of course, I believe that once the people leave their houses, they would like to go to a store but I’m talking about the medium to long-run prospect, I think parts of those markets that were resistant to e-commerce earlier will now go for more eCommerce set up. 

    Sandeep
    What about the seasons? Do you think we are moving towards season less collections?

    Vasco
    Yes, I think so, and I guess this was already in effect since the last couple of years. Instead of seasons, you see more through with presentation and instead of being colder, this winter season or fall or spring or summer, you kinda see a flow and you see variances that you couldn’t see in another place. I think the frequency with which we have been launching our collections have already made it season less. 

    Sandeep
    Do you think brands will want to change their location of sourcing post-pandemic?

    Vasco

    I think yes, we saw a lot of brands that wanted to have production closer to their facilities. In our case we always adapt ourselves in our trajectory as a company or even on services of course on the laundry and on the finishing and on the packaging, we always support the nearshoring.

    We always know that the higher volume and the higher quantities will always will maintain themselves in other countries. Since we know that, in terms of price we cannot compete, we compete through logistics and through differentiation and to give a different product so that’s our way to compete.

    Sandeep
    Do you think in the coming times, people are going to spend more on home wear as they are spending too much time at home? 
    Vasco

    If you know, we work a lot for IKEA and Zara home, so for us, it’s a market that is going to be very successful for home textile. The home textile is growing in terms of importance for the people because they are also evolving as a product, so you see, especially on the textiles, on carpet, rugs, on bedsheets. The brands and the clients are choosing and are looking at many options available. 

    IKEA brought the possibility that we can have a lot of different furniture at an affordable price if people started to turn their attention more on how they can make their house beautiful, so yes there will be more demand for home textiles in the coming times. 

    Sandeep 

    What do you think are the biggest positives of this situation, although this is very unfortunate? 

    Vasco

    I think if there’s any good thing which will come out of this would be the ability to analyze yourself and the company and the market in a status that nobody wants to be in. 

    Sandeep

    There are many stores are closing down, it may lead to a reduction in production, also consumers may look at lower consumption of clothes post-pandemic, How will it re-balance the whole chain?

    Vasco
    I think what the last crisis taught us is that the bigger companies stay stronger and the smaller will normally not survive. I believe that in terms of this equilibrium that we need to hold out, I think it will be very tough for most of us but I believe that the biggest players in whatever market will be the ones benefiting the most.
    I believe that if you stay and if you have the ability to endure this time it can be very beneficial for you in the future.

    I believe that brands we’ll also have to be more aware that they cannot squeeze the margins of the producers because this is showing us are that nobody is safe. But I really hope and we all really hope that in next 1 or 2 months we can come back to normal in some way,even if we have to take precautions .

    Sandeep

    Yes, we all believe that, let’s cross our fingers and hope for the best. It has been always pleasure talking to you, I hope we see you again soon 

    Vasco
    Thank you