We are bringing here some Pre-Fall looks from some cool brands – some well known by the denim fraternity and some others not so known – but all of them adding oomph to the pre fall looks!
Google is not only an ocean of knowledge but it is also the largest reservoir of information (database) on human wants and desires as it systematically maps the searches by keywords, location, time etc. So , if you were to know what the people of ,say, New York primarily look for or what kind of food they most desire, or the sport they are most interested in , Google can tell exactly . And this information would be time sensitive ie it would be easy to find how the preferences have been changing over a time period.
Can this strength of Google be applied to Fashion industry as well ?? Of course- they can also mine important information on any industry and find about consumer likes , changing needs etc ! .
Google has recently released a Fashion trends report for US based on the searches that take place on the behemoth. Their team, Yarden Horwitz (fashion brand strategist) and Olivier Zimmer (Fashion data scientist) analyzed 6 billion queries related to apparel category from 2012 to 2015 and applied Time Series Clustering to group together the queries based on time series of similar trends or seasonality. The directions are quite interesting and worth noting for the fashion industry –specially those who are interested in the US market.
The trends from the report have been categorized into following main groups.
Now we look deep into important product categories that have seen the major changes in getting focus of consumers from the US.
Jogger pants have been growing in popularity for sometime as comfort factor gets more important for the consumers . The searches for Jogger Pants have grown 165% during the last year. The top styles of Jogger pants can be understood from the following image. Each rectangle size indicates the size of the search.
Google says
“Top searches for jogger pants span men, women, boys, girls, and even toddlers, indicating mass appeal for this apparel item. Looking at the terms often searched in conjunction with jogger pants, it seems that consumers are already well-versed in jogger pants and are turning to Google Search to learn more about which brands offer the best selection and deals. Consumers are stepping out of their comfort zone on this trend. The top most-searched style? Emoji jogger pants.â€
Denim also generates a reasonable size of interest though Emoji, Camouflage and leather look more appealing to consumers. Google analysis says that while Jogger Pants started on the East Coast, the trend is quickly becoming a big hit in the Southern areas of the US as can be seen from the images below.
According to trending Google apparel searches, tulle skirts are growing in popularity just in time for spring fashion, up 34% from January 2014 to January 2015.
“Originating on the West Coast, the tulle skirt trend is making its way across the U.S. Consumers are seeking this skirt in all colors of the rainbow (and even in rainbow), but the most popular colors are the classics: black and white. Consumers aren’t interested only in buying tulle skirts. Top searches indicate that a majority are feeling inspired to get crafty and make their own. Who says you need to be a ballerina to wear a tulle skirt? said a blog post on the report by Google brand strategist Yarden Horwitz and fashion data scientist Olivier Zimmer.Originating on the West Coast, the tulle skirt trend is making its way across the US, according to Google searches. Consumers are seeking this skirt in all colours of the rainbow (and even in rainbow stripes), but the most popular colours are the classics: black and white.â€
Recently brought back in the U.K. in 2013, the midi skirt is making its way back to the U.S. While lower in search volume than tulle skirts or jogger pants, the midi skirt has seen 9X growth in searches over the past three years—and is still in its early stages of growth within the U.S. market. Top searches for midi skirts, such as “how to wear†and “outfits,†demonstrate a lack of education on how to incorporate the trend. Consumers are turning to Google Search for advice and inspiration on styling a midi skirt as part of their daily outfit. Because the trend has been growing in the U.K. over the past couple of years, there are already so many variations of silhouettes and styles displayed on the internet. Top silhouettes include pleated, pencil, A-line, high waisted, skater, circle, and flared, to name a few. With such an overwhelming list of styles, it’s no wonder consumers are seeking tips on how best to pull them off.
Below are the top styles searched for Midi Skirts. Size of the rectangle represents the volume of search.
When we look at the specific denim trends, we find that biggest gainers are :
Boyfriend Jeans : +80%
Denim Dress : +198%
Ripped Jeans: +107%
Biker Jeans :+ 552%
Bell Bottom Jeans : +64%
Biggest losers
High Waisted Jeans : –41%
Skinny Jeans :+6% – though in positive , skinny jeans has seen a very dormant kind of response on the Google and fades in comparison to other competing searches like Boyfriend Jeans, Ripped jeans or Bell bottom jeans !
It is not only Google report which is pointing in the direction of reduction of skinny style but a host of other indicators which show that skinny is not the current favourite of the consumers in US. A number of celebrities have been seen in either flares or increasingly in boyfriend jeans indicating that they seem to be switching the sides !. This trend also makes sense from the point of view of brands / retailers and others in supply chain. Skinny jeans have been long in trend and most consumers – mainly females – have a horde of them in their closet. It makes sense to encourage the shifting of the trend to non-skinny styles so that they would open up their purses and again revive the sagging market.
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Denim is irreplaceable ! There is nothing which can match denim’s versatility and popularity .. We all believe this and want to continue believing this . But there are other competing products which are definitely catching up and trying to give denim a run for its money !
Athleisure :Clothing that combines athletic wear and leisurewear and go seamlessly from the workplace to the gym, from sitting to skipping,from meetings to marching ,from party to office and includes a whole lot of wear gear including yoga pants, leggings,. The Athleisure trend is catching on , specially in the US. As per NPD group , US, the sale of activewear including yoga pants , leggings etc climbed 7% for year ended June 2014 to $33 billion. For the same period , the sale of Jeans in US dropped 6% .
While the shift to the Athleisure clothing has been happening for many years now, it looks like it might get more pronounced now with comfort factor becoming more important for consumers. Many retailers including Macy’s, Foot Locker Inc., Gap Inc.’s Old Navy and Under Armour Inc have been witnessing propelling sales thanks to more Americans wearing workout-style gear whether they’re working out or not. An increasing number of women are sporting yoga and dressy sweat pants , for men hoodies are becoming more common . Retailers like Gap pushed further to take advantage of this trend by increasing their Athleta sales and increasing the number of stores (expected to cross 100) , Urban Outfitters, Macy’s and many other retailers are pushing deeper into the category.
So what does all this mean for denim industry ? Does it mean that the Athleisure trending will affect the sales of denim adversely?. Denim is a very broad category and covers most segments of the population and across all genres and ages. It also has presence in the active wear category and with technological advancements, it is pushing further into this category. The popularity of super stretches with over 60% elasticity are a testament to denim making inroads here. But still denim is not a complete match when it comes to the properties of activewear and leisurewear. The industry needs to put in more efforts to bring denim to a higher level and give a stronger competition to such products. Industry wide innovations and developments are needed to take denim and its fight to increase market share to next level.
Mustang AW’14/15 collection’s look is authentic and true – traits that have characterized the brand for decades. Their core competence is and continues to be their greatest source of inspiration: True denim.
“True denim for true people†– the clear focus of the Men FW2014/15 Collection is MUSTANG’s core competence: Jeans. The coated denims in deep dark blue and ultimate used look are extremely washed and perfected with rough details like repaired finishes.
The key men’s pants silhouette remains slender. The skinny and tapered fits are combined with robust denim shirts to create the perfect jeans look.
The color palette of this collection includes classical tones like dark blue, navy, anthracite, and flecked gray, as well as wintery shades of burgundy, off-white, and jade green. Handwritten graphics, spray effects, and cold-dyed finishes also create special details and exceptional reflections throughout the entire range.
Despite their slender fit, the blue key pieces have incredible wearing comfort as a result of super soft finishes and comfortable stretch qualities – without giving up any of their authentic look.
The denims exude confidence, with their dark coatings and extreme washes. Structured destroyed effects perfect the characteristic traits of this collection. Trendsetters here are the authentic red selvage styles with button fly, which fulfill the uncompromising demands of every jeans fan with their rough-woven, heavy denim qualities.
Skinny and super skinny denims perfectly showcase the female silhouette in FW2014/15. Feminine, slim line boyfriend fits and slim-cut cropped denims also set new fashion accents. These figure-hugging styles are relaxed with thick knits in indigo that have that handmade look. Zippers and other decorative details that adorn the authentic washed fabrics complete
the characteristic key look of the season.
Expect the unexpected: For example the pleasantly soft wearing comfort of the structured, rustic, vintage style denims. In addition, the qualities are processed with innovative destroyed treatments and acid washes and sprayed with subdued vintage colors. Special details like sequin and leather trims or structured topstitched seams are additional trends this season.
Knitted denims establish a new segment of this collection, with their comfortable and incredibly casual fabric.
Phillip Lim, a young designer from New York, introduces new line of 12 unique denim styles that seen to add a touch of elegance to the collection. Drawing upon the concept of a clean and minimalist aesthetics introduced by a number of high end designers like Chanel, Valentino, Tommy etc. the capsule collection is priced from $195.00 for a briolette top to $895 for a bold trench. The collection includes 12 non traditional denim pieces including tailor pants, classic coats, blazers etc. These non traditional boutique items have often been brought out by designers but have yet to attain critical acclaim and popularity. But nevertheless it’s a bold and innovative attempt to give denim a completely different look.
Note : Check out our updated macro denim trade figures in the reports section
DENIM SHIRT WITH CONTRASTING YOKE
Japanese denim specialist EVISU infuses core elements of traditional Japanese denim wear with modern touches to create its 2013 Autumn Winter Collection. The collection is presented in a series of advertisements shot across multiple locations in Tokyo that best capture the spirit and style of the brand.
EVISU Private Stock Collection
Traditional Japanese denim wear is at the core of the EVISU brand and the EVISU Private Stock collection, the brand’s flagship line, showcases the essence of Japanese culture at superlative levels of quality and craftsmanship. The entire collection is crafted in Okayama, Japan, the home of Japanese denim. Using sophisticated, specially crafted looming machines, the premium quality unsanforized selvedge denim, KIBATA, undergoes more than 30 steps to dye it the famous indigo blue color. A handful of recognized master craftsmen then hand paint the EVISU Seagull logo on the back pockets in separate layers. These jeans are an example of Japanese commitment to perfectionist craftsmanship.
EVISU Heritage Collection
“Classic with a Twist†underpins the design direction of the EVISU Heritage collection. Fusing new-age design elements with traditional denim wear, the collection offers a sophisticated and stylish look. This season EVISU integrates the ever-popular camouflage print and other outdoor gear elements into the collection, which makes the pieces easy to complement with a variety of styles, offering a different and more mature side to denim wear.
EVISU Genes Collection
The stylish EVISU Genes collection is a core line within the EVISU brand. It stands out from the other collections by being designed specially for the street. This new-age, pop-colored denim package is inspired by Tokyo’s unbridled buzz and presents the fun-loving face of Japan to the world. Suitable for all ages, the collection features elements such as patchwork and colorful prints that are used to update classic designs such as MA-1 and varsity jackets. The bright color palette for slim and skinny denim adds a more modern touch to the entire collection.
Women’s Collection
Denim may highlight the masculinity of men, but it has the opposite effect on women. A slim silhouette of denim showcases feminine curves, while the right pair of shorts can bring attention to a woman’s youthful vitality. Evisu tries to pep this up !
Some cool looks from the collection shot at different locations in Tokyo..
With a history of more than 150 years , Tavex is a name to reckon in the global textile industry. Starting in 1846 as “‘Fábrica de Hilados, Tejidos y Estampados de Bergara†, the mill produced Indian and other cotton fabric using the indigo dye right from the beginning. It took the strategic decision to invest in denim manufacturing in 1970 and brought the first Rope Dyeing machine to Spain. Thereafter , it has been a story of continuous growth and expansion crossing various milestones on the way. A few years back , Tavex and Santiesta (Brazil) merged and created a large textile conglomerate.
On the recent visit to  New York , I met Tavex team who participated in the show . It was a good oppurtunity to know more about the company and I chatted with Jeannie who looks after the marketing and product development for the North American market . She very kindly updated me with various informations. Here are some excerpts from the chat :
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The merger happened almost 4 years ago . Tavex and Santiesta came together and created the NEW Tavex Corporation . We are doing upwards of 150 million mtrs of denim and we all work under the Tavex umbrella for denim . We manufacture both flats and denim. Denim is made in Morocco, Brazil , Chile , Argentina and Mexico .
Flats and work wear fabrics are produced in Morocco and Brazil. TAVEX purchased 2 factories in Mexico a couple of years back WITH THE INTENT OF doing DENIM product at the same level as we do in Europe but closer to the American market. These factories are the primary responsibility for the North American Sales team although we also represent our highly influential European collection here in the US, as well.
Denim is all Tavex now . A Lot of people still reference Santista, in South America , because it has always been a big name in denim and it is still very much a part of our workwear / uniform business in Brazil..
We are the largest in the Americas and Europe , but not completely sure how we stack up to some Chinese mills. So I am guessing that we are 2nd .
The last 3 years for Tavex have been all about restructuring to meet the needs of each region . In Europe and the US , in particular , we made many many changes – buying plants , moving or replacing equipment , hiring new teams etc . But , today , we have overcome all the start up and restructuring issues and have emerged a much stronger force . We have always had a strong financial position . But , today , the company worldwide is much stronger in product innovation , quality and service . We are expecting great results for 2010.
What are the latest trends in the denim fabrics that you are noticing?
Stretch and more stretch, always with a soft touch , continues to be the biggest volume trend. In Mexico, we have put a LOT of emphasis on growing our stretch business – both comfort and stretchy stretch. We have a great deal of internal yarn capability that allows us to offer a wide range of fabric characteristics that emulate our premium , European stretches , but manufactured much closer to the market. We have a very nice menswear business . In better fashion basics that we are continuing to expand with new shades, finishes and yarn aspects as we see the menswear market continuing to demand better , more interesting fabrics as well. One of our largest programmes is actually a stretch programme for the men’s market . We see this segment growing as well.
Any other products of Tavex that you would like to tell us about ?
We have a few really unique developments like eco friendly , fair trade products and Wellness textiles. We have a finish called Amazon Tex which comes from a nut which is harvested in the Amazon that supports the indigenous people of the rain forest . We are also embarking globally on Therapeutic or Wellness textiles . Our first development in our ‘Denim Therapy ‘ Group is called ‘ Energizing’ . It is regular denim improved with a bio – ceramic complex application. This application pulls the far infra red rays of the stun, stimulating the molecules in the body , which in turn improves ciruclation and gives you a better sense of well being . It also improves your equilibrium giving you better balance .We have had a lot of fun proving this improved balance with our customers. It really works and the BENEFIT is IMMEDIATE . The application has been used in lot of high tech fabrics like skiwear and medical apparel . This is the first time it has been APPLIED TO FABRIC FOR EVERYDAY CLOTHING. It is not a cheap process but there is a growing market out there – Clothing for the elderly , skate / surf / performance market etc . We think this is a very exciting category and will continue to introduce new and and different therapeutic concepts into this segment.
We have Rope and Slasher in all locations .
And here are some pictures from their Summer 2011 collection
Tavex Global Tribes :
South America with Africa, India with aborigines.Multicultural humanity: respect for different cultures and traditions.
Tavex Backwood :
The combination of rock and roll with hillbilly, in the 1950s and 1960s.
Young escape to rock and roll icons.
Tavex Decelerate :
Northern coast of Europe, sandy beaches and landscapes swept by the wind, MILAN, L.A.
And since Jeannie won’t allow me to put up her picture , I could only put one of Steve Naturale from NY Sales 🙂
Contact Tavex – Email here
This is a guest post by Rik Vanniewenbourgh
The Bread and Butter this season was an extravagant party with lot of enthusiasm and energy showing up in the show . The video below catches some of this energy from the party.
First impressions from the Bread and Butter
Some of the key denim trends at the show were :
A lot of attention towards vintage denim came from brands like Levi’s / Wrangler / G- Star / Tommy Hilfiger etc.
ADRIANO GOLDSMIED with his name already well know in the World as designer (design jeans) had a very good collection which shows how you need to make and present vintage denim!!!!
Retro and Vintage IS IN…….
Trend is towards more and more dark colors.
Jeggings for women is an increasingly popular trend with small special designs and smaller legs .
Slubs are disappearing towards more even qualities . But the fabrics are slightly shiny (achieved with hot calendering and under pressure) .
Trend is more towards unwashed or slightly rinsed washes.
Turkish brands have paid much attention to the fair and there were many people on the fair , including brands like MAVI / CROSS etc.
Turkey is very important for Europe as supplier and it reflected in the fair. The reasons for this importance are :
-short lead time
-price / quality is excellent
-quality is good and consistent and trust full
-small orders possible to get from Turkey
-already years experience and regards communication excellent with their
customers and are very open.
Here are some very cool visuals from the show .
 
And here is slideshow for the visuals from the show .
This is a guest post by Rik Vanniewenborgh who has over 30 years experience in Denim Industry. He has worked over 25 years in the VF Corporation(Belgium) in various capacities (including quality control). This post is from his recent visit to the BBB Berlin Jeans Fair.Contact him on email here
Siwy premium denim launched their Autumn/Winter 2010/2011 range experimenting with a number of flambuoyant washes and new fabrics . Siwy denim is only about 5 years old and was launched in 2005 .The female only brand infuses the LA-dominated denim category with a heavy dose of New York attitude and has been adorned by denim heads including Kate Moss, Sienna Miller , Nicole Richie and more .
The signature Siwy silhouette remains in the super skinny ‘Hannah’ jean, debuting a number of new fabrics and washes for AW10, including Vegetarian crushed leather and metallic print.
Here is the Guess Women’s Fall/ Holiday 2010 women’s denim look book which they have shared with us. The Men’s Fall / Holiday Look book can also be found here.
The fall 2010 collection fetaures Power Stretch Fabrications, Unique Washes, Fashion Silhouettes, and 80s and 90s Styling. Skinny jeans and leggings continue to be a strong trend and acid washes are used – reflecting their growing popularity.
Fabric:Â Light Weight Power Stretch Denim is present in Dark Indigo, Coated qualities, and bleached out colors. Medium Weight Denims with comfort stretch and Stretch Corduroys are also included in the fashion assortment.
Wash Finish: Stone Washed and Potassium Sprayed Indigo washes, Knee Fading and Whisker Detailing, Natural Worn looks, Foil Treatments on Denim, Tie-Dye Wash Techniques, Washes down shades of Grey and Black, Brush, Splatter and Spray Accents are all incorporated into the newest denim collection.
Silhouette:Â The assortment centers around super slim legging / jegging fits.
Detailing:Â Fashion Silhouettes get detailed with the following: Contrast piecing with fabric and leather, Power Shoulder Details, 80s Styling, Re-Constructed Seams, Zipper and Chain Detailing with Metal Fringe and Black Enamel Hardware Finishes, Faux-Fur Trim Detailing
  
 
Here are some Denim Trends for F/W 2010-11 for Men’s and Women’s denim contributed by Denimatrix (a vertically integrated producer of fashion denim jeans based in Guatemala City).
Men’s denim silhouettes mainly include the following:
Here are the images for these silhouettes :
The trends for the women’s denim trims include unusual placements,beads and rhinestones ,material mixing and more..
About Denimatrix : A vertically integrated producer of fashion denim jeans based in Guatemala City.
In their own words “We offer our customers vertically integrated solutions “from the ground up.†Our specialized dry and wet processing capabilities, as well as our focus on fit and construction details of our jeans, give our customers an advantage in this ever- changing marketplaceâ€.