1. Pl do tell us about your denim background. How you came to be associated with this industry?

I’m Katsu Manabe,son of the owner of Japan Blue Group. But I was not interested in denim until I found what our company had done. It was
1995-1997, I was just a usual high-school student who was interested in fashion, games sports etc.. At that time, vintage denim replica trend started, then many stores made their own denim. I had Levi’s 501XX replica, then I bought some piece of store original replica denim( Japan made). A year after, I found exact same denim in father’s office and he told me that its made by him.. I was surprised..I found several fabrics and samples which I wanted to buy and it was huge trend in the market at that time.. After all , I started work his company. I had experience
for overseas production manager and taking care of the store, opened the
website, after all ,started to sell material and garment in overseas
market. It was around 15years back .

2.How do you think an American product came to be perfected in Japan and actually becoming a symbol of best quality denim worldwide with raw denim being at the centre of this attention.

After 2nd war, U.S military brought us a lot of clothing, and its so
interest and cool for Japanese at that time. I think we love not only
the denim, also American culture behind. Its so diffrent culture than
Japan.
Past 100years Levi’s build denim as a daily wear and work wear in the
market. Most of people still think denim=Levi’s=U.S. And this is
history and its never change.
But professional people, designers, manufactures,craftsmans, they
undersatnd what the quality is. We love American culture and denim.
But we’ve been trying to make the best quality denim in this 50years.
I bring high quality japanese raw denim to Europe and US market since 2007 and try to build up raw denim market in 6years. Past 3 years there are
many raw denim brands that appeared in the market.
I’m so happy that people have interest again in raw material which was the trend 1995 in Japan. I know its good way to enjoy the denim and people
will think about quality of denim material after you wear a pair of
jeans. The best quality denim, that customer will decide.
We are just trying to produce the best material.

3.Pl tell us how Momotaro grew from its origins and how it came to become an iconic symbol for denim lovers worldwide.

Momotaro started is 2005 as store original denim (Rampuya Original denim). We just tried to make a pair of the best Japan made denim for Japanese people. Our president wanted to put some name on this label which can easy to understand its from Okayma, Japan. And we put the Momotaro name as a label. For Japanese people, Momotaro is one of famous fairy tales (like a “Peter Pan”). And this source of story came from Okayama. So
people know Momotaro=Okayama. And we try to connect
Momotaro=Okayama=denim=No.1
In this 6years,I started selling overseas market and trying to visit the
store as much as possible. Bring all the samples, telling history and
culture,spirit,japanese denim..etc. We don’t think we are the best,we just try to be the best. Our friends and denim lovers who share our spirit,they bring us into the market.

4.What is the basic concept behind Momotaro collections? Do you go for seasonal collections or timeless ones which are not affected by seasons.

Concept:
Momotaro Jeans uses only the best natural raw materials and dyes the cotton yarn with pure indigo to weave the Original denim using its vintage looms by hand.
At Momotaro Jeans, the artisans have a saying: Made by hand without
compromise g. All you have to do is try on a pair of Momotaro Jeans and
you will see for yourself from the exquisite details and rich indigo
blue that Momotaro jeans are of superior quality.
Mainly we sell timless collection. But we also sell seasonal collection
mostly in Japanese market. I try to build Euro collection which not
selling to Japan. Normally we don’t make big discount sale.

5.You also have the Japan Blue brand. How is it different from Momotaro?

Japan Blue started from Euro,U.S and Asia then Japan. = its focus
overseas market and focus on material. Not only denim but high quality
material.
Momotaro started for Japanese market then Asia-US-Euro. = focus the best quality vintage denim.

6.There is a lot of misunderstanding on the kind of looms used by denim pioneers in Japan for making denim. Do you think these looms were all imported from US mills ? What role did these looms play in bringing up the Japanese denim industry?

50years ago Belgium looms maker export them machine to the world, and
some of our craftman remeber the machine came from Belgium also
technician came to teach how to work.And we also use vintage deadstock”TOYODA” looms which TOYOTA car company started them business in 1890.

7.You are also a unique brand because you weave your own denim. Do you think it makes a huge difference to have your denim woven by yourselves?

Our sister company Collect Textile has been trying to produce high quality material and denim for 22years.
I think raw denim needs good quality material. If we want to try to build the best quality denim in the world, that’s the best way to weave your own material. Ofcourse you need a lot of knowledge ,experience and practice for the same..

8.What role do you think does cotton play in denim quality . I believe you use mainly Zimbabwe cotton. There must be a strong reason behind the same.

Yes, we mainly used Zimbabwe cotton. Its one of the finest cottons and
long staple, its can create great color with Indigo. Also it gets softer
after uses, makes good fade and fit your body.

9.How do you think Japanese denim fashion has changed in last decade . I am sure it must be reflecting in your collections too!

Its changed like this –
Hard washing denim->Natural fade denim.
Hard raw denim -> Rinsed raw denim.
Vintage replica -> original denim
Of course we follow this change but not always. We want to create new
vintage generation with new denim history for next 100years by Japanese
denim.

10.Many thanks for taking out time to speak to us. Any advice for denim lovers ?

Enjoy with your raw denim, your life will appear on your denim. Its your
history of denim.

JAPAN BLUE is a jeans brand created by legendary Japanese denim fabric mills – COLLECT – in 2010. COLLECT has a

A Chat With Hiroki Kishimoto | Japan Blue

deep routed tradition of denim making in Kojima, Okayama. Collect is also the fabric maker the same fabric manufacture behind Momotaro denim and has a deep routed tradition of denim making in Kojima, Okayama.

JAPAN BLUE does spent most of time developing and creating materials.
Because they feel that material is a key factor to determine the quality of jeans.Selecting cotton,spinning cotton, dying the yarn and finally weave a fabric, JAPAN BLUE considers all four processes an creates a fabric best suited at that time. Using Zimbabwe, Memphis and other special cotton, Japan blue creates magic with their fabric and jeans.

We had a chat with Mr Hiroki Kishimoto , the designer and over all manager at Japan Blue Jeans to understand their principles and ideals of jeans making.

Hi Hiroki. Can you tell us about Japan Blue Group?

Our group has two company, COLLECT co.,ltd and RAMPUYA & co. COLLECT started in 1992 for fabric maker. COLLECTsupply fabric to a lot of brand, not only jeans maker but also other fashion brand now.Main customer are Japanese brand. of course we work overseas brand too. RAMPUYA started in 1996 for in order to master natural indigo and is owned by the same person -Mr.Manabe. We make own factory to dye natural indigo at first. We dyed yarn, tshirts,shirts,pants, leather, wood! . Mr Manabe started Momotaro Jeans in 2005. We want to make jeans that has vintage, Japanese traditional, luxury, NO.1 jeans.

And I starter Japan Blue Jeans in 2010. I want to put different concept to Japan Blue. I produced Japan Blue with vintage and innovative mixed. I can produce a lot of variety fabric. But our fabric customer (COLLECT customer) buy some of them. A lot of fabric which was excellent couldn’t appear to the world.

So I produced Japan Blue Jeans. This is one of reason for the launch of the brand.

Japan Blue focuses a lot on the material – the fiber, the yarn spinning, dyeing , weaving etc. Do you think it makes a huge difference ?

Of course. I think jeans making equal fabric making. If I change small detail, huge difference will be coming after wearing.

How did you get into the denim business? What Were there any big hurdles you had to overcome?

I met owner Mr.Manabe by chance before graduate university. We talked a bit, and he said, come to my office.I worked fabric business about 15years. Designed, production, sales,,, sometimes dying , grow cotton…I talked other jeans maker designer, he said, “I want to wear jeans by COLLECT fabric for personally.So I made so made small pieces jeans at first.

Big hurdles are craftsman, factory. We loose good factory and good craftsman every year. We are concerned that made in Japan product is shrinking.

How is Japan Blue different from competitor brands , say Evisu or even your own sister brand Momotaro. Who would you count as your main competitors?

I think Japan Blue is quite different to some Japanese jeans brands. Almost Japanese jeans brands pursue vintage jeans individually.Of course I use some vintage detail, machine for Japan Blue. But not everything. I compare which is better vintage or modern tech for every product..

Do you think Japanese denim fashion is different from rest of the world ?

Some parts are different, some parts are similar. Eg, I produced jeans for US market. But Japanese also likes that model. There is also reverse. But there are not same time, different season. So there will be similar someday.

What according to you is the definition of a great denim ?

Something which people wear every morning.!

Why do you think Japanese denim is so famous worldwide

I think the quality is the best.

Is it because of good craftsmen who have been working for a long time?

That is one of reason. and, Japanese jeans designer require to craftsman very difficult denim fabric.

So the designers push the innovation ?

I think so. designer want to make vintage jeans. So craftsman consider how to make.

But why so much focus on vintage jeans? Why not something very modern and different?

Because of unique market only in Japan. In Japan, we pursue vintage fabric, sewing detail, cut, everything. Actually, i worked to produce fabric and a lot of designer sent vintage jeans. SoI reaserched vintage.

What do you think is the most imp thing for making vintage denim ?

i think balance is imp, cotton, spinning , dying , weaving. vintage jeans did not think fading, or some design. they use very bad condition machines.

Do you mean the old looms?

Old looms and old spinning machine, old dying machine, old sewing, everything old..

So using these old machines is an advantage or a disadvantage ?

Of course disadvantage for almost people, but advantage for a few jeans freaks over 20years ago. I produced fabric for some jeans freaks at that time.

Really ! which year you started?

Our company started 1992. i started 1996.

Your brand Japan Blue – is it selling mainly in Japan ?

We sell
50:50 Japan and other countries.
1st year – only showed designs and did not sell.
2nd year – sold only to overseas markets.
3rd year – sold to Japan.

Ok that’s great.. I see that you also make heavy denims like 16.5oz Monster selvage. What is the heaviest ounce you make ?

28oz.

Wow ! what kind of customers wear 28oz fabric jeans?

I do not recommend to wear this fabric for daily use. Only if you go to very cold area or ride on bike.

But jeans must be very stiff and rough ? Must be breaking many needles during sewing .

That’s right. very difficult to sewing. they need hammers!!

So normally you must be doing about max 16-17oz .

Yes, but our 16.5oz is soft and comfortable. i can produce 16.5oz soft, So i make jeans. If i produce more heavy jeans with comfort, i will make those jeans. Eeven 16.5oz is not so easy to make soft .

Where can customers buy your Japan blue jeans?

We have 70 dealers in Japan and 80 overseas. and 1 own store in japan. Some dealers can send world wide. Blue owl, AND, Okayamadenim , Cultizm,,,,and more,,

Please tell us something about your latest jeans articles .

Some of the famous ones are

• 16.5oz Monster selvage .I produce JB0412/Tapered cut and JB0212/Skinny cut to this fabric.This fabric is heavy, but very soft feeling after wash.
• JBM04A3 10oz freedom jeans. We use indigo knit fabric to this jeans. Very soft, comfortable.
• JB0414 10.5oz Joker jeans. We use selvage stretch fabric to this jeans. Of course comfortable. And good fading coming.
• 5 colors jeans : JB0211 and JB0411 has 5color(cobalt, ruby red, forest green, carrot, egg plant)

Is there something we can expect from Japan Blue in the coming years?You have talked a lot about quality. Having been in the denim scene for a while; nowadays do you see a marked difference in what people are looking for in terms of quality, where the garment is made or how it is washed?

I want to produce jeans which nobody have never seen someday.Of course I brush up current model. And we always produce new fabric, jeans. I just enjoy making fabric! Actually, I can’t expect Japan Blue in the coming year. I will try wash jeans too. so I produced fabric for wash jeans. Maybe it will be released in near future.