Experience their collection’s revolutionary approach to denim, where innovation meets sustainability. They’ve reimagined iconic fabrics, transforming archival bandanas into pleated, cracked textures. Double loom weaving reduces waste, while laser distressing creates unique effects. Timeless designs, such as the Play bag and Scrunch D, are reinterpreted. Their debut eyewear collaboration with Luxottica completes the story, showcasing a fresh perspective on fashion’s future.

Diesel’s circular approach tackles fashion’s environmental challenges. Their show set, made from 14,800 kg of recycled denim, highlights the potential of waste reduction. By reusing and repurposing materials, they minimize their ecological footprint. This commitment extends beyond the show, as the entire set will be repurposed, inspiring a more sustainable fashion industry.

“There is beauty in waste, in what is distressed and destroyed. It’s in the circularity of denim waste, and into the distressing that we build into the collection. This is the disruption of Diesel: we are pushing for circularity in our production as hard as we push the elevation of design.” – Glenn Martens, creative director of Diesel

How have you seen the apparel world change in the past covid scenario and how do you see the changes affecting garment washing in the near future.

In the post-COVID scenario, the apparel world has experienced significant shifts, particularly in consumer behavior, supply chain dynamics, and manufacturing practices. There are some changings likely to impact  garment washing in some ways:

Shift to Casual and Comfortable Clothing: With more people working from home and socializing in relaxed settings, there has been a notable increase in demand for casual and comfortable clothing, including denim. This trend towards casualization could influence the types of denim garments being produced and subsequently washed in industrial facilities, with a focus on softer finishes and comfortable fits.

Sustainability Considerations:Environmental sustainability has become a key priority for many consumers and brands in the post-COVID era. Garment washing processes typically involve significant water, chemical, and energy usage, which can have negative environmental impacts. As a result, there may be growing pressure on manufacturers to adopt more sustainable washing practices, such as water-saving techniques, eco-friendly chemicals, and alternative application methods.

Supply Chain Disruptions: The pandemic exposed vulnerabilities in global supply chains, prompting many apparel brands to reassess their sourcing and manufacturing strategies. This could lead to changes in where denim garments are produced and washed, with a potential shift towards more regionalized or localized manufacturing to mitigate supply chain risks and reduce transportation emissions.

We thank you for again joining the Denimsandjeans Vietnam show in 2024. What would be your focus during this show and what kind of customers do you want to reach out to ?

At DenimsandJeans Vietnam 2024, our focus would be on showcasing the latest trends, innovations, and sustainable practices in the garment washing industry. We would showcase cutting-edge technologies and innovations that are driving positive change in the laundry industry. This could include advancements in laser and ozone finishing techniques, new coating looks, special dyeing processes with less water usage and different application methods for laundry processes.

We would aim to engage with garment manufacturers, fabric mills, and suppliers looking to adopt sustainable practices and integrate innovative chemical technologies into their operations. This could involve showcasing solutions for improving resource efficiency, reducing environmental impact, and enhancing product quality throughout the garment and fabric supply chain.

Overall, our goal at DenimsandJean Vietnam 2024 would be to inspire and educate garment industry stakeholders about the importance of sustainability, innovation, and responsible practices in shaping the future of denim. By targeting a diverse range of customers and addressing key themes and trends, we aim to facilitate meaningful discussions and collaborations that contribute to a more sustainable and ethical denim&garment industry.

What would you rank you most innovative and sustainable solutions which are also widely accepted.

Our water-free and stone free enzyme concept widely accepted in the laundry sector since last 2 years. By this way we are able to eliminate pumice stone usage in laundry application by using less water. Our Laser and ozone products are also running in the market and additionally we are working on new application methods for laundry market.

How do you see Vietnam evolving over the next few years in terms of fabric and garment productions. Do you think it could perhaps evolve in a more sustainable manner than the other major centers of garment production.

Vietnam has emerged as a significant player in the global fabric and garment production industry over the past few years, and its evolution in the coming years is likely to be influenced by several factors, including sustainability considerations, technological advancements, and shifting market dynamics. There is growing recognition of the importance of sustainability in the textile and garment industry, driven by environmental concerns and changing consumer preferences. Vietnam has the opportunity to position itself as a leader in sustainable fabric and garment production by adopting eco-friendly materials, implementing resource-efficient manufacturing processes, and promoting transparency and accountability throughout the supply chain. Vietnam has the potential to evolve in a more sustainable manner than other major centers of garment production by leveraging its strengths in technology, innovation, and collaboration. By embracing sustainability as a core principle and adopting responsible practices throughout the value chain, Vietnam can contribute to the global transition towards a more sustainable and equitable textile and garment industry.

What do you see as the furutre of denim?

The future of denim is likely to be shaped by several trends and factors, including sustainability, technology, and shifting consumer preferences. As environmental concerns become increasingly important to consumers, the denim industry is likely to see a continued focus on sustainability. This could involve the use of eco-friendly materials such as organic cotton, recycled denim, and alternative fibers like hemp and Tencel. Additionally, denim manufacturers may adopt more sustainable production processes, such as water-saving techniques, reduced chemical usage, and improved waste management. With advancements in technology such as 3D printing and digital design tools, consumers may have greater opportunities to customize and personalize their denim garments. This could involve choosing specific fits, finishes, and embellishments, allowing individuals to create unique pieces that reflect their personal style and preferences. Denim has always been influenced by cultural and fashion trends, and this is likely to continue in the future. Emerging trends in streetwear, vintage revival, and sustainability-conscious fashion may influence the styles, washes, and silhouettes of denim garments.

Overall, the future of denim is expected to be characterized by innovation, sustainability, and adaptability to changing consumer needs and preferences. Whether it’s through eco-friendly chemicals, technological advancements, or personalized experiences, denim is likely to remain a versatile and enduring staple in the fashion landscape.

To contact the team , please mail here – serdard@kaisertekstil.com

1. LYCRA®is one of the most well known brand of fiber producers for global fashion brands. What do you think helps LYCRA® create this distinct identity.

The LYCRA Company is recognized worldwide for its innovative products, technical expertise, sustainable solutions and marketing support. Our focus is on adding value to our customers’ products by developing unique innovations designed to meet the consumer’s need for comfort and lasting performance. The LYCRA Company innovates and produces fiber and technology solutions for apparel and owns leading consumer and trade brands like LYCRA®, LYCRA® T400®, COOLMAX®, THERMOLITE®.

2. Denim is one of the key segments for LYCRA®. How do you think denim has evolved post covid and how has LYCRA®adapted to it

Pandemic followed by cost of living has dramatically changed the consumer behavior and shopping habits. They have become more selective and conscious about their apparel purchase. Shrinking budgets made them to consider the value of the apparel products and they want to invest more in timeless, versatile, and high-quality garments which have longer wear-life. Circular economy approach has put a bold focus on responsible design. Brands and retailers now better understand designing clothes that last longer and are more durable as a key to reducing environmental impacts. The latest launched technologies like LYCRA®lastingFIT and LYCRA® ADAPTIV fiber were developed to address these new trends.

3. Sustainability is now the core of global fashion. With various governments creating rules for transparency and circularity, how LYCRA® has evolved to keep ahead of these requirements.

The LYCRA Company has created an abridged version of our 2021 Planet Agenda Update that includes our 2030 Goals and Commitments related to our sustainability efforts. This is organized around Planet Agenda’s three pillars of corporate responsibility, product sustainability, and manufacturing excellence, which together touch every aspect of our business. The goals are based on a 2021 baseline and are targeted at 2030 unless otherwise noted.

4. You had created a ‘Green Wall’ at Denimsandjeans India show held recently at Bangalore . What concepts were you showing there and why do you think they are they important for Indian brands and retailers.

Taking in consideration that durability is the new sustainability, we showcased our latest fiber innovation LYCRA® ADAPTIV fiber and LYCRA® Anti-Slip fiber. Those fibers are part of our LYCRA® XTRA LIFE offering, as helps garments to last longer, in terms of body adaptivity in the case of LYCRA® ADAPTIV fiber which provides wider fit windows and size inclusivity and long-lasting by adopting LYCRA® Anti-Slip fiber which reduces the risk of seam slippage. In addition these technologies will have a positive environmental and costs impact due to less returns in particular for brands and retailers selling online.

5. What does the near future of denim industry look to you. Do you think we are looking at big changes in terms of demand, production systems , technologies etc ?

The denim industry will develop in order to address the increased consumers concerns about reducing their environmental footprint. There will be a significant investment in higher quality garments, designed to last longer because they are made with durable fibers.

For more information , contact :

Fabrizio Maggi , Commercial Director South Asia & EMEA Distribution , Fabrizio.Maggi@lycra.com

Nearchimica is over 4 decades old company dealing in auxiliaries for textiles. How has the company grown over the years

The company has grown step by step, implementing his activity cooperating with Customers on   market need satisfaction, focusing on continuous innovation, offering deep technical support

What change have you seen in last 10years with focus of the industry changing towards more environment friendly products and how have you kept pace with it

In the last 10 years many things happened ,with continuous and pressing requirements for eco sustainability  together with  some reluctance from  brands to fully adopt  related  technical innovation for their standard production.

Starting from 2019, with growing ZDHC compliance demands and its deadlines, this commitment has become more defined and important. Today we can say that most major companies are involved in eco sustainable process developments.

What do you think are the 3 key concern areas in denim fabric and garment production which need to be addressed to reduce our impact on the mother earth

Our philosophy is that “ less is better” : less water consumption, less energy consumption, and less hazardous chemicals.

We call this project Eco dress code which means continuity in our denim tradition, paying attention to people,  workers and  environment.Today technology is available to produce attractive garments with sustainable approach, it’s just a matter of deciding when and how. We’re available for supporting our customers in this transition.

Your main products which you think can help in the above-mentioned areas.

As usual our model is based on an offer of   Application knowhow and Chemical product innovation to our partners.   Main subjects are:

•  Laser technology ,combining new generation  laser booster and smoothers in order to improve laser engraving performance …the object is  to come to a  No Touch process.
• Selected Enzymes high performing at low temperature and suitable for easy   biodegradable bleaching and cleanings
• Eco friendly bleaching agents and Ozone activators.
• Concentrated performing auxiliaries to improve, along the whole textile field, logistic cost and energy cost and pollution related to the transport.

Major changes you see coming in the auxiliaries in the next few years. How will that impact our industry.

One of the fundament futures will be recycling. At any level, it will be successful if we’ll be able to transform the waste into a resource. Our company is sharing with our customers projects that are going in that direction. This means that all the life cycle, for  garments & fabrics, must be consciously planned starting from the real beginning.

You are participating in the Denimsandjeans Show in Vietnam in 2023. What are your expectations from the event as it is happening after 3 years

Our expectation is to overcome problems arising from this long pandemic lockdown and happy to meet by person again re starting relationships.

 It is clear that after the pandemic nothing is  same as before, and we need to adapt ourself to    new needs and  situation, considering  these transformation as a part of a natural evolution.

For more information , contact Sabrina Beretta ( sabrina.beretta@nearchimica.it )

Every year, approximately 300 million metric tonnes of plastic garbage are generated throughout the world. Each year, India produces roughly 9.46 million metric tonnes of plastic garbage. From 1950 to the present, researchers estimate that 8.3 billion tonnes of plastic have been produced. 60 percent of the plastic has ended up in landfills or the global ecosystems as plastic garbage. Despite different attempts, just 9% of plastic garbage has been recycled so far, and only 12% has been burnt. The remaining 79% has been collected in our surroundings.

In 2016, France produced a significant quantity of the trash, averaging 4 to 6 tonnes per person. Large amounts of post-consumer trash are hardly recycled back into circulation, escape through the waste management system’s seams, and end up creating environmental harm and posing a threat to biodiversity. France created around 4.5 million tonnes of plastic garbage in 2016, with 80,000 tonnes harming the environment and 10,000 tonnes entering the Mediterranean Sea. As a result, France was responsible for the most environmental degradation in the Mediterranean area that year.

Furthermore, large amounts of post-consumer waste are mishandled, and goods and products are thrown away before even being utilized once. Unsold goods worth EUR 630 million are discarded in France every year. When perfectly excellent things are thrown away unnecessarily, the energy and materials utilized to make them are also squandered. Unsold items are destroyed, resulting in 5 to 20 times higher GHG (greenhouse gas) emissions than if they were reused.

Plastic waste has now become a major issue for governments all over the world. To address this issue, the French government has taken a bold step by passing Law no. 2020-105, often known as the “Anti-Waste Law,” which sets a target of recycling 100% of plastics by 2025.

THE ANTI – WASTE LAW

Since 2015, the European Commission has been focusing on an implementation plan to help Europe transition to a circular economy. The French government approved “The Anti-waste Law” on February 10, 2020, to combat waste and encourage a circular economy. The law intends to minimize waste and pollution at the design stage and shift from a linear to a circular economic model of production, distribution, and consumption. It uplifts businesses in a variety of sectors, as well as municipalities and citizens, to reduce waste and enact more circular practices.

Full oversight in environmental and health attributes of goods, surveillance on the recycling program, restriction on the use of plastic, assistance to fight pollution and waste of both food and non-food commodities, rigid punishment for environmental violations, provision to support companies in their eco-friendly initiatives, and so on are among the fifty measures included in the law. To sum up, the law aims to-

• To scrap out single-use plastic packaging by 2040
• Eradicating waste by revitalizing reuse and aiding charitable organizations
• Handling planned obsolescence
• Endorsing a better resource management system from design stage to material recovery
• Present improves, stronger and more seamless information to the consumers

How the government of France aims to achieve this anti-waste law? By 2025, the French government plans to recycle 100 percent of plastic. By 2030, they plan to reduce home garbage and waste from business activities by 15% and 5%, respectively. To accomplish this, the government intends to establish a five-year strategy focusing on plastic reduction, reuse, and recycling. It will be phased in over four years, from 2020 to 2025, 2025 to 2030, 2030 to 2035, and 2035 to 2040.

PRESENT DATE SCENARIO

When France prohibited the disposal of unsold food goods in 2016, it made international news. This restriction will be expanded to other unsold commodities, such as electronics and hygiene products, beginning this year, 2022. From January 1st, it is unlawful in France to burn a variety of unsold items, as part of the government’s goal of establishing a “circular economy” and minimizing waste.

From this year, 2022 onwards, it is illegal in France to destroy the following unsold goods- electronic products, textiles, clothes and shoes, furniture, ink cartridges, hygiene products, food preservation and cooking equipment, leisure products, books, and school equipment.

Affect Of Anti- Waste Law on Fashion Industry

What is the actual amount of trash produced by the fashion industry? Every year, the average consumer discards 70 pounds (31.75 kilograms) of apparel. Every year, we generate 13 million tonnes of textile waste, 95% of which might be repurposed or recycled. For the past five years, post-consumer trash has been at the forefront of the circular economy debate in the fashion sector. “The 2020 Preferred Fiber and Materials Market Report reveals that the global fiber production has doubled in the last 20 years, reaching an all-time high of 111 million metric tons in 2019 and pre-COVID-19 results indicated potential growth to 146 million metric tons by 2030.”

As per French Lawmakers, the fashion sector is a viable target of the new laws as apparel merchants, in particular, will have to refresh their items more regularly (than those of other industries) as they often have unsold overstock. The industry, as a result of its long-standing procedure of destroying unsold merchandise to avoid selling it at a reduced rate and/or paying to store it, is one of the major causes in terms of more than €650 million (nearly $710 million) worth of new consumer goods destroyed or disposed of annually in France, and $900 million worth is unsold items that end up in landfills.

How exactly is France recycling the wasted clothes? More demand for recycling choices arose as a result of increased interest in the environment and a desire to live a safe life. There is no denying that over 60% of the garments wind up in the garbage. So, what happens after that? Garments that are dumped in the trash are collected by ECO TLC organizations or businesses. The collected clothing is then processed by hand and resold to second-hand retailers or delivered to textile recycling organizations, which is the labor portion.

After that, all of the textiles that can no longer be worn are transported to be recycled, where they are chopped, shredded, frayed, or crushed, and then turned into rags, insulating products, new garments, or secondary raw material. . Few firms in France, such as Hopaal, Maison Izard, and others, are already providing precedents for other large brands, demonstrating what is possible.

The Policy Measures

The law includes plenty of measures, to help shape the adaptation to a circular economy. The demolition of unsold non-food items is prohibited in France for the first time. Instead of dumping or incinerating unwanted items, businesses will be required to repurpose, donate, or recycle them.

It is also the first country to require that electronic and electric items, including cellphones, computers, washing machines, and televisions, have a mandated modifiability index. This strategy attempts to enhance the proportion of devices that are fixed by requiring manufacturers to consider modifiability throughout the design stage and educating customers about repair alternatives when purchasing a gadget.

By establishing new employment and promoting the solidarity economy, the law also hopes to inspire societal reform. France is also supporting circular solutions to help those living in difficult situations by setting aside funding to encourage the development of 70,000 employment in reuse networks and encouraging the donating of unsold items to charitable organizations.

With the new year 2022, comes fresh focus on sustainability from authorities in USA. Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act was proposed on January 7 and which , if passed, would make NY to become the first state in the US to pass a bill, holding the largest fashion labels accountable for their involvement in climate change.

The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act, sponsored by State Senator Alessandra Biaggi and Assemblywoman Anna R. Kelles, was also backed by a number of sustainable fashion nonprofits including the New Standard Institute, the Natural Resources Defense Council, and the New York City Environmental Justice Alliance, as well as designer Stella McCartney. The law applies to global apparel and footwear companies with revenues of more than $100 million.

WHAT EXACTLY DOES THE BILL SAY?

Prada, Nike, Armani, Gucci, Chanel, and all other global high-end fashion brands with more than $100 million revenues are liable to map out at least half of their supply chain from raw material farming ,through transportation, and to reveal the social and environmental implications along the way. Fair labour pay, greenhouse gas emissions, and water waste and management are all examples of topics that must be made public. Under the Act, fashion firms must set goals in line with the Paris Agreement, which is limiting global warming to 1.5 degrees Celsius over pre-industrial levels – and present a strategy to achieve them.

FASHION SUSTAINIBILITY ACT INTO EXISTENCE

“As a global fashion and business capital of the world, New York State has a moral responsibility to serve as a leader in mitigating the environmental and social impact of the fashion industry” quoted by Senator Biaggi in a press release. She also added, “a groundbreaking piece of legislation that will make New York the global leader” in holding the fashion industry “accountable” ensuring, “labour, human rights, and environmental protections are prioritized.”

Companies would have 12 months to comply with the mapping rule (18 months for impact declarations), and if found in violation, they might face fines of up to 2% of their annual revenues. The fines would be directed to a new Community Fund run by the Department of Environmental Conservation, which would be used for environmental justice programmes. A list of companies determined to be non-compliant would be published annually by the New York attorney general.

THE CURRENT SCENARIO

Though many brands have become more vocal in admitting their role in climate change and human rights violations, efforts to correct the situation have been left to the companies and a variety of nongovernmental watchdog organizations such as the Fair Labor Association, which focuses on wage issues, and Higg, which focuses on supply chain reporting. They can be rather diverse.

According to the UN Environment Programme, the worldwide fashion industry today accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions, which is more than the aviation and shipping sectors combined, as well as roughly 20% of global wastewater. Every year, the textiles sector produces an estimated 92 million tonnes of trash, which is expected to increase to 134 million tonnes by 2030. This deteriorating trend may mostly be linked to the rise of fast fashion, in which firms make and distribute low-cost, low-quality apparel that buyers discard after only a few wears.

The head of New Standard Institute, Ms. Maxine Bédat said in a news release, “The Fashion Act is an effort to meet industry where they are, acknowledge the good faith efforts they are currently doing, and come up with a single standard that has some teeth.” The measure will now travel through Senate and Assembly committees, with the authors hoping to put it up for a vote in late spring when the state budget discussions are through.

Though a step in right direction, it remains to be seen if the Act can bring some very objective standards to be complied with – rather than giving subjective directions leaving scope for misinterpretations and hence non-compliance. The fashion industry needs the governments large consuming regions of US / Europe and later even China and India. Till the time we have thoughtful intervention by the governments, sustainability and circularity is likely to remain dependent on subjective interpretations preventing its universal application.

One such brand that has come quite far in its sustainability journey is Closed – a German iconic denim retailer that has been around since 1978.

About The Brand

Marie and François Girbaud, two French fashion designers, created the renowned denim brand Closed in 1978. In the ’90s and 2000s, the duo had a big effect on hip-hop style with their distinctive take on denim silhouettes. The brand has been featured in songs and famous videos, like Kris Kross’ ‘Jump’, for its casual, stonewashed ensembles. It gained global popularity for its baggy denim designs thanks to endorsements from the hip-hop community.             

The brand believes that sustainability is their key value to whatever they do. The brand has been progressively focusing on the environmental impacts of its products and has taken a number of steps to move ahead towards lowering the ramifications.

CLOSED Sustainable Journey So Far

Some of their latest steps towards the big goal included in their 2020 sustainability report :

• The denim giant has just joined the Fair Wear Foundation, which will inspect the manufacturing facilities at regular intervals in the future — formally demonstrating to their consumers the great working conditions in which its production partners operate.
• In collaboration with its denim mill Candiani, the company has expanded its eco-denim line A BETTER BLUE by launching the world’s first degradable stretch denim clothing made with the natural rubber yarn CorevaTM. A BETTER BLUE jeans are made using eco-friendly materials, low-impact dyeing techniques, and washing methods for resource conservation in Italy. So far, the company has manufactured 223,950 units of A BETTER BLUE things and claim that it has saved 6,882,870 litres of water, 649,455 kWh of electricity, and 77,262 kg of solid waste of chemicals (based on average savings compared to a pair of conventional Closed jeans).
• To reduce its use of water, electricity, and chemicals even further, it has included eco-friendly innovations into its designs, such as outerwear made from 100% recycled materials coloured with plant dyes. The retailer is increasing the proportion of eco-materials.
• Another important aspect in ensuring seamless manufacturing was the company’s short supply chains. This is a feature that has always been essential for the brand, as well as for environmental and quality concerns. An astounding 80% of our products are manufactured in Europe, near our key consumers. To reduce its environmental impact, the company has avoided flying materials or semi-finished clothes throughout the world. Its producers in Italy, Portugal, Romania, and Turkey typically work with European materials, whilst its Chinese partners primarily obtain materials from Asia, such as silk or technological textiles. To reduce emissions to a minimal, its clothes, footwear, and accessories are exclusively carried to warehouses by land or sea.
• The company donates to climate protection projects to compensate for a part of unavoidable emissions. Its corporate offices and warehouses are already carbon-neutral. While they’re on the issue, they have some exciting news: beginning with the autumn 2021 collection, they will offset the CO2 emissions for all A BETTER BLUE jeans. They will progressively focus on eco-friendly measures and CO2 offsetting in the next years, with the goal of creating a totally climate-neutral supply chain.
• Closed’s Code of Conduct, which is followed by all of its manufacturing partners, allows it to rely on an official letter that assures: no child labour, fair and statutory pay, compensated overtime, safe and sanitary working conditions, set working hours, and a maximum 48-hour work week. Every partner must sign the Code of Conduct twice a year.

The Road Ahead

The denim retailer is looking forward to bigger and better sustainability goals. The brand will provide PETA-approved vegan labeling for its items that do not include any animal-derived substances. They will be employing a new outerwear fabric composed of recycled nylon beginning with autumn 2021 collection. It is dyed with a plant-based dye that is environmentally friendly. ONIBEGIE is an eco-friendly dyeing method developed by its Japanese partners Komatsu Matere that upcycles onion peels, olives, and bamboo. By donating to eco-initiatives and offsetting its carbon emissions, its A BETTER BLUE jeans will bring climate-neutral items beginning with the winter 2021 collection. Additional certifications, declarations of purchase, and the provenance of the raw material, as well as animal welfare standards, are required for all yarns containing animal fibers beginning with the brand’s winter 2021 collection. In this collection, they will also include organic cashmere. It is also integrating a greater proportion of organic cotton and other natural fibers in its collections. As per the brand, 35% of its women’s and 47% of its men’s winter 2021 collections are eco-friendly, 41% of the women’s and 50% of the men’s denim are part of the eco-denim line A BETTER BLUE. The brand will also use recyclable paper for its hangtags.

WHAT THE BRAND BELIEVES

Since its inception, sustainability has played a critical part in Closed’s purpose. In the 1970s, the notion of “sustainable” was far from pervasive or widespread as it is now, and it was open to several interpretations. Closed has always represented respect for and a fair perspective of not just the environment, but also of everyone and everything with whom it works. Its declared goal was and continues to be long-term partnerships with all business colleagues, which is why the brand seeks for partners that share similar values and whom it can lay trust. Simply put, sustainability entails far more than this, it also entails using the planet’s resources as responsibly as possible.

Timeless, the brand pays homage to its legendary past while also looking ahead, producing sustainable jeans for the coming years.

H&M Group had a lot going on this week with its CEO and sustainability ambassador attending the Fashion Future Conference, its Monki Brand becoming a part of Zalora, and the launch of the world’s largest recycled denim collection ever, altogether.

Monki, the company’s youth-oriented brand, is expanding its online presence throughout Southeast Asia. The brand currently has six storefronts in Malaysia and two in the Philippines, and the move onto a platform that is a major participant in online fashion retail in the area demonstrates that the company regards the market as vital. The launch also marks the brand’s first move to Singapore.

“We have a strong following in south-east Asia, which makes us excited about expanding our online offer in this area together with Zalora. We can’t wait to welcome our new customers into the Monki world.” Says Jennie Dahlin Hansson, Managing Director, Monki

Monki’s ranges on Zalora will showcase on-trend ensembles with conscious materials, inspired by Asian street style and Scandi fashion. New jeans styles in vibrant prints, all made from organic cotton, will be included.

Monki will be available on Zalora in the Philippines up in late September, with Malaysia and Singapore following later this autumn.

H&M’S FALL RECYCLED DENIM COLLECTION

The brand also announced its recycled denim collection for the fall season (which was worn by sustainability ambassador Maisie Williams for her virtual participation in a fashion future event). Baggy  jeans, loose straight leg jeans, trucker jackets, oversized overshirts, bucket hats, and shoppers make up H&M’s “Most Recycled Collection Ever.”

Each apparel gets inspired by the laidback aesthetic seen in the 1990s. It’s crafted mainly from recycled metal zippers and trims and 100 % recycled fabrics, threads, labels, and pockets. Its washing technique has a minimal impact on the environment and is free of harmful chemicals. 

The H&M Recycled Denim collection launches on 9 September 2021 with selected pieces in stores and the whole range online.

INCORPORATING SUSTAINABILITY 

One of H&M’s greatest goals is to move to a circular production system, which entails reusing both production waste and collected clothes.

Patchwork details and 90s denim washes ranging from vintage light blue, normcore mid-blues, dark vintage blues, vintage blacks, and cool grey, are featured in the new collection. It aims to highlight the possibilities of recycled materials and provide denim fans around the world with even more sustainable options. Each clothing is created entirely of recycled materials, including pre-consumer recycled cotton from industrial waste cuttings and post-consumer recycled cotton from collected garments, some with recycled polyester, and accessories made entirely of fabrics cut and re-used from production rejections. 

FASHION’S NEW NORMAL 

During the Fashion Future Conference 2021, H&M CEO Helena Helmersson and sustainability ambassador Maisie Williams met virtually to discuss the future of fashion, specifically the post-pandemic road for the business. The talk focused on the fashion industry’s post-pandemic path forward, a future that will require imagination, creativity, technological innovation, and new business models to connect customers in innovative ways.

Helmersson and Williams provided a glimpse into the future of sustainable fashion. They left on a positive and empowering note, focusing on practical solutions and reminding us that while there are physical limitations to what the planet can support, fashion can find a way to work within them.

The duo also stated that sustainability is an ongoing challenge that requires influencers, companies, and governments to unite around a singular purpose. “Creating a truly sustainable business isn’t a one-off job. But, when we — influencers, companies, governments — come together around a common goal, we can do almost anything.” Said Helmersson.

They also feel that “creativity and technology are key.” H&M’s new technology has provided the brand, whole different methods to interact with customers. A personal avatar that helps clients try on items in virtual fitting rooms is one excellent example that H&M Group developed in its internal innovation lab. Virtual fits could help enhance accessibility and reduce product returns, to bring another dimension to the shopping experience. Helmersson cited the company’s 3D body scanner and the Loop machine in Stockholm as examples of its innovation. Customers could transform unwanted garments into new fashion favorites, enabling them to see the textile-to-textile recycling process, which is generally kept behind the scenes.

Earlier, the brand also launched its sustainability-linked bond which aims at sustainability-driven initiatives. The bond is linked to H&M Group meeting several sustainability targets, such as by 2025 reducing emissions from its operations by 20 percent. The brand is also committed to reducing absolute Scope 3 emissions from garment manufacturing, fabric production, upstream transport, and raw materials by 10 percent.

Helmersson stated that the notion of sustainability is evolving. According to her expanding definitions of sustainability beyond materials, to include the people and relationships that go into creating the fashion we wear is an important part of the agenda that needs to be followed for fashion’s new normal.

H&M believes that by going backward and reusing leftover fabrics, we can move forwards and create denim that’s kinder to the planet.  It quotes, “Remember, waste isn’t waste until you actually waste it.”  The brand grails to achieve sustainable growth that makes a positive difference to people and the planet.

Arvind X Textile Genesis

The new tie-up with Textile Genesis will enable the company to create digital “Fibercoins” for their sustainable collections and which allow brand and retailers full value chain traceability and visibility along with ESG (environmental, social and governance) credentials of the Supply Chain Partners from fiber-origin to retail. The Textile Genesis platform has won innovation awards & recognition in the industry from H&M Foundation, Accenture and Fashion for Good.

Aamir Akhtar , CEO of Arvind Denim mentions about the push from customers :

“There is a clear feedback from consumers that they are looking for transparency in supply chains. They are wary of buying products made from raw materials that originate in conflict zones. This is the reason we have decided to partner with Textile Genesis to offer block chain based traceability in our denims.”

Why Textile Genesis

Textile Genesis is an award winning startup which creates traceability for all sustainable fibers – natural, man-made and recycled .

• Cotton fibres – 15-20% of global cotton supply is covered by them with leading recycled cotton producers on board.

• Cellulosic fibres – 50% of viscose and 80% of lyocell tracked by TG. Long term commitments with Lenzing.

• Top 10 recycled polyester players on TG platform

• Long term partnership with #1 wool & cashmere producer – Schneider group

How it works

The fibercoins issued at various stages of manufacturing will be visible to the brands and retails across the value chain, enabling them to trace how and from where the materials are being used.

“As this is a block chain based solution , Fibrecoins will be issued at the origin – for eg ginneries for cotton; production plants for MMF etc. these Fiber coins will get transferred right thru the supply chain and will be visible virtually to all brands as well their customers “ – says Aamir Akhtar

End to end traceability of Arvind’s product offerings will be visible on TG platform including all stages

Addition of any sustainability , transparency and traceability solutions , the costs are bound to increase . On being asked if they would be able to pass on the same to the buyers, Aamir Akhtar mentioned that if the buyers find value in the new initiative, they will surely be open to pay for it.

We were also wondering if Arvind would limit this traceability to only their sustainable denims or extend it to other products . Aamir was sure that it is going to be taken forward :

“This initiative would be expanded to the products from other divisions of Arvind Limited. Even in its current form, this traceability is not limited to raw materials. It includes traceability of other inputs like recycled water, green energy, Higg Score etc”

On the whole, a great initiative and a need of the times. As we get more and more transparent and allow easy traceability , the brands will be able to give better information to their customers enabling them to take informed purchase decisions , giving a great boost to sustainability.

Sponsored article – This article has been written by Coats team and is reproduced here at D&J on their behalf.

“With over 4.5 billion pairs of jeans produced worldwide every year, denim is one of the planet’s most popular clothing choices. But it has a serious image problem when it comes to the environment. Here at Coats, we’re working with innovators, manufacturers and brands to change all that.

Denim may look good, but it’s not great for the planet. Take water consumption. On average, 10,000 litres of this precious resource goes into making one pair of jeans – firstly, in growing the cotton, and secondly in the seriously labour-intensive processes required for dyeing, stonewashing, and distressing.

They say meat’s bad for you. Well, it takes up to 10,000 litres of water to make a single pair of jeans, compared with 2,400 litres for a burger.

(Talking of ‘distressing’, did you know that 16% of insecticides & 6.8% of herbicides used worldwide are for cotton? That harmful chemicals are used for dyeing? Or that processes like sandblasting can cause breathing problems if you don’t take protective measures?)

Real action, not greenwash

So that’s the problem – and it’s not just an environmental one. If consumers don’t see that brands are making efforts to embrace sustainability, they’ll choose ones that do. The buck really does stop here.

That’s why Coats is working with our customers to champion sustainability and the circular economy. We help find ways to waste less, while reusing and recycling more. We also look for alternatives to chemical and synthetic dyeing and bleaching – like foam dyeing, natural bio indigo dye, and water-efficient fabric dyeing machinery.

Coats has invested in a revolutionary waterless digital dyeing start-up called Twine. While It’s not yet suitable for bulk production, we need to give initiatives like this all the support we can.

Naturally, a way to save even more water is in washing. Lasering, ozone, eflow and using bio-based enzymes are all excellent alternatives – and, as thread makers, we need to make sure our products can withstand these new processes.

Sustainable solutions for the circular economy

As the industry starts looking for alternatives to cotton, we at Coats have begun experimenting with yarns that use more sustainable hemp and soybean.

Going one step further, our 100% recycled EcoVerde range of threads is made up of old PET plastic bottles – which rescues them from the rubbish tip and cuts CO2 emissions too. So that really is a win-win.

By 2024, we aim to offer EcoVerde versions of all our premium threads. But we’re far from finished. May 2021 saw the launch of biodegradable and compostable EcoRegen. This brand-new thread is made from 100% lyocell, a renewable fibre derived from wood pulp sourced from sustainably managed forests. Also in the pipeline is EcoCycle, a water-dissolvable thread that makes reusing and recycling end-of-life garments even easier.

There’s been a lot of progress, but we still have a long way to go. Coats is supporting the drive to sustainability and circularity through investment in research and development. Our Innovation Hubs are home to some truly astonishing developments. So, we won’t just look good. We’ll be doing good – and feeling good about it too.

Join us on the 4th August, for a dedicated CoatsCast session on the future of denim- features guest speaker Danielle Elsener (Founder of Decode) Click now to register: https://bit.ly/3yTgxe7