Category: General

  • The Rise Of Haitian Apparel Industry

    The Rise Of Haitian Apparel Industry

    This is an article contributed by Mr. Mark D’Sa – a reputed Consultant and Advisor

    Image result for haitiNearly four years after the earthquake with aid agencies having poured billions of dollars into relief projects, the stability of Haiti’s garment industry seems to be hanging by a thread.Haiti’s garment industry is focused on low-end apparel clothing and cranking out plain T-shirts for North American companies such as Gildan, Hanes and Walmart. According to the Inter-American Development Bank (IDB), the industry makes up 80-90% of the country’s exports. And thanks to free-trade deals agreed by the US Congress, most Haitian garments are able to enter the US duty-free.

    International Finance Corporation, (IFC), a member of the World Bank Group, is investing $4 million to help The Willbes Haitian S.A., a subsidiary of South Korea-based The Willbes & Co., Ltd, expand its apparel manufacturing capacity and create 1,000 new jobs in Port au Prince by the end of 2016. In addition, IFC is mobilizing a $4 million parallel loan from the Inter-American Development Bank.IFC’s portfolio in Haiti amounts to US$122 million, including US$24 million mobilized from other partners.

     Earlier this year, quality-apparel brand BOXERCRAFT announced that IRII (Industrial Revolution-II) would join its list of suppliers. It’s an indication that companies are willing to move away from the mass production of turning out T-shirts on the cheap and are starting to consider responsible sourcing practices. The hope is that other brands will also see the potential in the venture and that they’ll place orders with IRII for high-end clothes that might usually get produced in places like LA. According to a report published by Better Work in April this year, 100% of Haitian manufacturers audited were still paying workers around 200 gourdes (about USD3.5) a day, some several months after the 300 gourdes minimum wage had been introduced.

    In June 2015, The Trade Preferences Extension Act, which extended the duty free provisions of the HELP Act, signed by the President Obama . This opened a ten year line of sight which allows investors to establish operations in Haiti with greater confidence. Earlier, in March, a trade delegation organized by IDB visited several companies in South Korea with positive results. Following up on the visit, Hansae Corporation of Seoul visited multiple locations in Port Au Prince and eventually signed an MOU with SONAPI (The Government administrator of Industrial Parks), to invest in Parc Industriel Metropolitain. This investment of U$30 million is expected to yield anywhere between 5,000 to 7,000 jobs. Haitian apparel exports to the US for the year ending November, reached U$ 896 million and 334 million SMEs (Square Meter Equivalent). Out of the total apparel exports, bottom exports are approx. 25% under Cat 347/348. Levi’s is the main denim buyer followed by Old Navy, Carter’s etc.

    During the year the number of apparel jobs reached a high of 41,200 – the highest since the HOPE and HELP Acts were signed in 2006. 60% of the growth in jobs in 2015 was in the northern region led by the Caracol Industrial Park and CODEVI.  With the establishment of the Caracol Industrial Park the industry has decentralized and by end November, 36% of the apparel jobs (15,212 of 41,536) are now in the northern corridor. It is also important to note that between the two Industrial parks under it’s management, SONAPI is now home to 49% of the total jobs in the apparel industry and scheduled to go over 50% in 2016. During the year a total of 7,226 jobs were created and 3,542 workers were laid off due to shutdowns and temporary closures. The net job increase at the end of November was 3,684. The Caracol Industrial Park contributed 2,998 apparel jobs in 2015.

    The country’s growth in apparel exports has been steady over the period 2010 to 2014. The job growth is mainly driven by investments from DR, Korea and USA.

    Category

    2010

    2011

    2012

    2013

    2014

    Total Export ($) 517.569 701.476 730.051 803.337 854.287
    Total SMEs Exported/Utilized) 253.06 257.628 270.374 306.44 313.931
    Average USD/SME $2.05 $2.55 $2.70 $2.62 $2.72

     

    Haiti Export Trend | Denimsandjeans.com

     The first quarter of 2015 saw the industry get off to a good start with jobs and exports growing steadily. The renewal of the AGOA agreement and the TPP generated a lot of discussion, but did not impact the volume of exports from Haiti. Towards the end of the year there was some disruption leading to the loss of 3,500 jobs in the Port Au Prince area, however the year finished on a positive note with an increase of 3,684 jobs.  According to the numbers published by ADIH, the companies that contributed to the maximum number of job increases in 2015 were S&H Global (2,800),  Val d’OR (1,259), Premium Apparel (756), Island Apparel (521) and H&H Textiles (513).

    Prospects for apparel exports from Haiti continue to look bright with the extension of the HELP Act and the availability of motivated labor at competitive costs. Despite minimum wage increases, the country continues to be competitive as the local currency depreciated 22.38% and according to all indications, is likely to weaken further against the US Dollar. The current minimum wage is 240 HTG (US$ 4.15) per eight hour day plus another 22% for health insurance, pension plan, two weeks vacation and one month nonus. At the time of publishing this post, the exchange rate is 58.09 Haitian Gourdes = US$1.00  As yet Haiti has not been affected by the AGOA and TPP agreements because of it’s proximity to the US and the generous TPLs available under the HELP and CBTPA agreements. Leading retailers and brands continue to be bullish about the potential Haiti has to offer.

    Several Haitian producers like S&H Global, Willbes Manufacturing, H&H Textiles and Val d’Or are in an expansion mode. A major Korean manufacturer Hansae, signed a lease agreement which could generate 5,000 jobs over the next three to four years. Logistics continue to improve with private sector port investments in the Lafito and Terminal Varreux projects on the outskirts of Port Au Prince. In the North, the World Bank’s IFC and USAID are upgrading the Port of Cap Haitian. At the current time there are two weekly sailings from Cap Haitian and four from Port Au Prince with 3.5 days transit to Florida. The prospects look bright for Haiti’s apparel industry in 2016. The workwear producers are increasing output, knitwear exporters are in strong expansion mode and based on the reactions of several investors, Haiti should continue see an influx of foreign companies that will add at least 6,000 jobs and a very good chance to cross the billion dollar export mark in 2016.

    A T-shirt from Walmart is likely to cost at least $7. The minimum wage in Haiti is 300 Haitian gourdes a day (roughly $6-$7) and even though this is peanuts, there is the argument that paying workers even $5 a day could put factories out of business. Some workers are said to be paid as little as $3.50 a day.T-shirt production is cheap, easy and requires little skill. Because of this and the high demand, if wages get too expensive, production can just relocate to another poor country, where costs can be kept low.To put it simply, low-end apparel T-shirt production is one of the least attractive parts of the industry.

  • The Top Ten Richest in Fashion Industry!

    The Top Ten Richest in Fashion Industry!

    Fashion is a huge industry worldwide churning out trillions  of dollars of turnover around the world. It should not be a surprise if a number of large corporations stand out in terms of turnover and profits and the entrepreneurs who created them reap billions of dollars in profits and wealth. In this article we bring focus on those extraordinary individuals who have stood the test of time and markets to create a huge niche for their companies in fashion industry and in the process created unbelievable wealth for themselves. The table below shows the TOP 10 such entrepreneurs from companies like Inditex to Nike and H&M who are the leading fashion wealth holders worldwide and in the following paragraphs is some description about each of them.

    Figures in Billion 
    Rank Company Name 2015 2014 2013
    1 Inditex Amancio Ortega            64.50            64.00              57.00
    2 LVMH Bernard Arnault            37.20            33.50              29.00
    3 C&A The Brenninkmeijer family            33.94            36.82              33.94
    4 Hermès International Betrand Puech & family            26.97            23.46              22.59
    5 Hennes & Mauritz Stefan Persson            24.50            34.40              28.00
    6 Nike Phil Knight            24.40            22.90              14.40
    7 Fast Retailing, Uniqlo Tadashi Yanai & family            21.10            20.20              13.30
    8 Luxottica Leonardo Del Vecchio            20.40            19.20              15.30
    9 Chanel Alain & Gerard Wertheimer & family            18.47            20.01                 8.00
    10 Otto Group Michael Otto & family            18.10            18.40              14.20

     

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    1. INDITEX |Spain| Amancio OrtegaAmancio Ortega| Top Ten Richest Fashion People|Denimsandjeans.com

    Amancio Ortega ; born 28 March 1936, is a Spanish fashion businessman and founding chairman of the INDITEX fashion group, best known for its chain of ZARA clothing and accessories  retail shops. In October 2015, he was ranked as the richest person in the world for four hours by Forbes, just ahead of American billionaire Bill Gates. His current networth is estimated to be about  USD $64.5 billion.He resides with his second wife in an apartment building in Galicia, Spain.

    In 1972, he founded Confecciones Goa, selling quilted bathrobes which Ortega produced using thousands of local women organised into sewing cooperatives. In 1975, he opened his first Zara store, so called because his preferred name Zorba was already taken. He opened many big Zara Stores during the eighties throughout Galicia.Today, Zara is part of the Inditex group , of which Ortega owns 59.29%, and aside from over 6,000 stores includes the brands Zara, Massimo Dutti, Oysho, Zara Home, Kiddy’s Class, Tempe, Stradivarius, Pull and Bear, Bershka and has more than 92,000 employees.

    In 2011, Ortega announced his imminent retirement from Inditex, parent company of the Zara chain, stating that he would ask Inditex vice-president and CEO Pablo Isla to take his place at the helm of the textile empire.

    He maintained his #3 spot on the Forbes list from 2013. In 2013 , his net worth was $57 billion only but within two years he has reached to the level of $64.5 billion.

    So far as the Financials of Inditex is concerned , It has been showing a very positive trend for last one decade.Net sales in local currencies increased 11% in FY2014. At the end of FY2014 Inditex operated 6,683 stores in 88 markets. Openings have taken place in 54 markets. Net sales for FY2014 reached €18.1 billion, 8% higher.Gross profit reached €10.6 billion, 7% higher than in FY2013, resulting in a Gross margin of 58.3%.

    2. LVMH |France| Bernard Arnault

    Bernard Arnault | Top Ten Richest Fashion People|Denimsandjeans.comBernard Jean Étienne Arnault ,born 5 March 1949, is a French business magnate, investor, philanthropist and art collector. He is the chairman and Chief Executive Officer of LVMH since 1989. In March 2015, Forbes estimated his wealth to be $37 billion, making him the 13th richest person in the world and the richest in France.

    In 1987, shortly after the creation of LVMH, the new luxury group resulting from the merger between two companies, Arnault mediated a conflict between Alain Chevalier, Moët Hennessy’s CEO, and Henri Racamier, president of Louis Vuitton. The new group held property rights to Dior perfumes, which Arnault believed should be incorporated into Dior Couture.

    In July 1988, Arnault provided $1.5 billion to form a holding company with Guinness that held 24% of LVMH’s shares. In response to rumors that the Louis Vuitton group was buying LVMH’s stock to form a “blocking minority”, Arnault spent $600 million to buy 13.5% more of LVMH, making him LVMH’s first shareholder. In January 1989, Bernard Arnault spent another $500 million to gain control a total of 43.5% of LVMH, and 35% of voting rights, thus reaching the “blocking minority” he needed to stop the dismantlement of the LVMH group.

    3.C&A |Germany|The Brenninkmeijer Family

    The Brenninkmeijer Family | Top Ten Richest Fashion People|Denimsandjeans.comBrenninkmeijer  is a German-Dutch family. Two members of the Brenninkmeijer family founded C&A, an international chain of clothing stores.In 2015, Forbes reckoned that the Brenninkmeijer family was worth $33.94 billion.

    In 1841, the brothers Clemens and August founded the textile shop C&A, which sold, unusually for that time, ready made clothes. The two brothers, peddlers originally from the small village Mettingen in Westphalia travelled each year to Friesland to sell their textiles to the farmers. In 1861, they stocked their goods in a warehouse in Sneek. This small town in the north of the Netherlands became the location of their first store. In 1911 the company opened the first German store in Berlin and today there are more than 400 stores in Germany. In 1922 the company started a store in Great Britain.

    Today C&A and other related companies are located in 16 countries throughout the world. These companies are linked through the COFRA group, based in Zug, Switzerland. More recently, the company has focused its efforts on real estate and financial services. C&A Online launched in Germany in 2008.

    For a period of time Eastern Mountain Sports, Steinbach, Ohrbach’s, Maurices, Miller’s Outpost and others were owned through the American Retail Group. In the 1980s and 1990s, they owned the Comark group in Canada, which included Bretton’s department stores, Clark Shoes and Collacut luggage stores. The Canadian operations were sold in 2005 to KarpReilly, LLC of Greenwich, Connecticut.

    4.HERMES |France|Bertrand Puech & Family

    Betrand Puech & Family | Top Ten Richest Fashion People|Denimsandjeans.comBertrand Puech, born 18 February 1936 ,is a businessman French in the luxury industry. According to Hurun Rich Global 2015, he is the 34th richest person in the world .In the year 2014  his net worth was $23.45 billion and in 2015 the net worth reached to $26.97 billion.

    Grand-son of the founder Émile Hermès, brother and cousin of Nicolas Puech Jean-Louis Dumas, he held various key positions within the Hermès family group.

    Entered in 1997 in the family business, he successively held the positions of Deputy General Director of Human Resources for eight years and then Chairman of the Management Board of Hermes before handing over in 2012 to his nephew Henri-Louis Bauer .

    5. H&M | Sweden|Stefan Persson

    Stefan Persson | Top Ten Richest Fashion People|Denimsandjeans.comCarl Stefan Erling Persson ; born 4 October 1947, is a Swedish business magnate. In March 2013, Forbes reported Persson’s net worth as $28 billion making him the richest of Sweden’s 12 billionaires and the 17th richest person in the world. Persson is the chairman and main shareholder in fashion company H&M, which was founded by his father Erling Persson in 1947. Persson took over the company from his father in 1982 and served as its manager until 1998. Persson also owns a substantial stake in the Swedish technology company, Hexagon AB. However in 2015 , his net worth showed a diminishing trend and down to $24.5 billion.

    According to the Bloomberg Billionaires Index, Persson had a net worth of US $31.9 billion in 2014, making him the 17th richest person in the world. Persson is a founder of the Mentor Foundation, a nonprofit organisation that aims to combat substance abuse among young people. He is a supporter of Djurgårdens IF and is co-funding a foundation for the club. Persson enjoys downhill skiing, tennis and golf. He owns properties in London, Paris and Stockholm and, in 2009, acquired the 21-cottage village of Linkenholt in Hampshire, England.

    Persson attended the University of Stockholm and lives in Stockholm, Sweden, with his wife, Carolyn Denise Persson. They have three children and, in 2009, his son, Karl-Johan Persson, took over as president and chief executive of H&M. Their other two children, Tom Persson and Charlotte Söderström are billionaires in their own right.

    6.NIKE |America |Phil Knight

    Phil Knight | Top Ten Richest Fashion People|Denimsandjeans.comPhilip HampsonPhilKnight ;born February 24, 1938,is an American business magnate. A native of Oregon, he is the co-founder and chairman of Nike, Inc., and previously served as CEO of the company. In November 2015, Forbes named Knight the 15th richest person in the world. He is also the owner of the stop motion film production company Laika. His net wealth was $14.4 billion in 2013 while in 2015 it was $24.4 billion.

    A graduate of the University of Oregon and Stanford Graduate School of Business (Stanford GSB), he has donated hundreds of millions of dollars to both schools; Knight gave the largest donation in history at the time to Stanford’s business school in 2006. A native Oregonian, he ran track under coach Bill Bowerman at the University of Oregon, with whom he would co-found Nike.Knight set out on a trip around the world after graduation, during which he made a stop in Kobe, Japan, in November 1962. It was there he discovered the Tiger-brand running shoes, manufactured in Kobe by the Onitsuka Co. So impressed was he with the quality and low cost, Knight made a cold call on Mr. Onitsuka, who agreed to meet with him. By the end of the meeting, Knight had secured Tiger distribution rights for the western United States.

    The first Tiger samples would take more than a year to be shipped to Knight, during which time he found a job as an accountant in Portland. When Knight finally received the shoe samples, he mailed two pairs to Bowerman at UO, hoping to gain both a sale and an influential endorsement. To Knight’s surprise, Bowerman not only ordered the Tiger shoes, but also offered to become a partner with Knight and provide product design ideas. The two men agreed to a partnership by handshake on January 25, 1964, the birth date of Blue Ribbon Sports, the company name that would later be transformed into Nike.

    7. Fast Retailing |Japan |Tadashi Yanai 

    Tadashi Yanai | Top Ten Richest Fashion People|Denimsandjeans.comTadashi Yanai , born February 7, 1949, is a Japanese businessman, the founder and president of Fast Retailing, of which Uniqlo  is a subsidiary. He is routinely ranked as one of the richest men in Japan, and in January 2014 was ranked 35th richest in the world according to Bloomberg, making him the richest man in Japan with an estimated net worth of US$19.9 billion in 2009 and US$20.2 billion in 2014.However in 2015 , his net worth was approx. $21.1 billion.

    Yanai attended Ube High School and later Waseda University, graduating in 1971 with a Bachelor’s degree in Economics and Politics.In 1971, Yanai started in business by selling kitchenware and men’s clothing at a Jusco supermarket. After a year at Jusco, he quit and joined his father’s roadside tailor shop.Yanai opened his first Uniqlo store in Hiroshima in 1984, and changed the name of his father’s company Ogori Shoji to Fast Retailing in 1991. He has stated: “I might look successful but I’ve made many mistakes. People take their failures too seriously. You have to be positive and believe you will find success next time.”

    Yanai won the International Retailer of Year award for 2010 from the National Retail Federation in US. He was the fourth Japanese national to win it, and the first since 1998, when it was won by Masatoshi Ito, owner and honorary chairman of the Ito Yokado retailing group. He was also chosen as best company president in a survey of Japanese corporate executives by Sanno Institute of Management in 2008 and 2009. In 2012 he was included in the 50 Most Influential list of Bloomberg Markets Magazine.

    8.Luxottica |Italy|Leonardo Del Vecchio

    Leonardo Del Vecchio| Top Ten Richest Fashion People|Denimsandjeans.comLeonardo Del Vecchio ;born 22 May 1935 in Milan, Italy, is the founder and chairman of Luxottica. The firm owns the Sunglass Hut and Lenscrafters chains with a total of over 6,000 stores and 73,400 employees. According to Forbes magazine, he is the richest man in Italy with a net worth of $20.4 billion, making him 38th richest person in the world as of February 2015.

    He was born in Milan, Italy in 1935 as a child of an impoverished family. His father died five months prior to his birth. He was given to an orphanage by his mother because she was unable to support him financially. He began his career as an apprentice to a tool and die maker in Milan, but decided to turn his metalworking skills to make spectacle parts. So in 1961 he moved to Agordo in the province of Belluno, which is home to most of the Italian eyewear industry. The new company was Luxottica s.a.s., a limited partnership. In 1967 he started selling complete eyeglass frames under the Luxottica brand, which proved successful enough that by 1971 he entered the contract manufacturing business.

    Convinced of the need for vertical integration, in 1974 he acquired Scarrone, a distribution company. In 1981 the company set up its first international subsidiary, in Germany, the first in a rapid period of international expansion. The first of many licensing deals with designer’s was struck with Armani, in 1988.

    The company listed in New York in 1990, and in Milan in December 2000, joining the MIB-30 (now S&P/MIB) index in September 2003. The listing enhanced the company’s ability to acquire other brands, starting with Italian brand Vogue in 1990, Persol and US Shoe Corporation (LensCrafters) in 1995, Ray-Ban in 1999 and Sunglass Hut, Inc. in 2001. They went looking for more retail companies, acquiring Sydney-based OPSM in 2003, Pearle Vision in 2004, Surfeyes in 2006, and Cole National in 2004. Most recently, they acquired Oakley in a US$2.1bn deal in November 2007.

    9.CHANEL |France|Alain &Gerard Wertheimer & Family

    Alain & Gerard Wertheimer| Top Ten Richest Fashion People|Denimsandjeans.com

    Alain & Gerard Wertheimer are the owners of the French luxury brand Chanel and The Wertheimer brothers are the 5th richest persons in France and are ranked 145th on the list of World Billionaires.

    Chanel S.A., the French privately held company was founded in 1909 by their grandfather, Pierre Wertheimer who bought out his early partner, Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel, the company’s namesake. The high fashion brand specializes in haute couture and ready-to-wear clothes, luxury goods and fashion accessories. The product brands have been personified by fashion models and actresses including Inès de la Fressange, Catherine Deneuve, Carole Bouquet, Vanessa Paradis, Nicole Kidman, Anna Mouglalis, Lucía Hiriart, Hope Portocarrero, Audrey Tautou, Keira Knightley and Marilyn Monroe, who is an epitome of the independent, self-confident Chanel Girl.

    In 2013 , the net worth of Alain & Gerard Wertheimer & Family were $8 billion however in 2015  it reached to the level of $18.46 billion .Alain, who is based in the U.S., serves as the chairman of the company, while Gerard, who lives in Switzerland, is the head of the division of watches.

    10.OTTO GROUP|Germany|Michael Otto & Family

    Michael Otto| Top Ten Richest Fashion People|Denimsandjeans.comMichael Otto ;born 12 April 1943, in CheÅ‚mno (Kulm) in Nazi-occupied Poland, is the head of German Otto Group, the world’s largest mail order company, with US$24 billion in sales in fiscal year 2003. Thanks to a 30% rise in Internet sales last year, Otto also maintains its position as the Web’s second-biggest retailer, behind Amazon.com.

    They were the former owners of Spiegel, Inc., which filed for bankruptcy on 17 March 2003. On 25 May 2005, Spiegel, Inc., emerged from bankruptcy renamed Eddie Bauer Holdings and is now owned primarily by Commerzbank. The Otto Group no longer has any stake in the company.

    Otto and his family own extensive real estate in Canada and in the United States, shopping centers in Germany and part of home-furnishings chain Crate & Barrel. Known as a committed environmentalist, his company has long touted environmentally safe products. In 1993, he created the Michael Otto Foundation (German: Michael Otto Stiftung). This foundation played, and is still playing, an important role in furthering multi-stakeholder dialogue on hot environmental issues.

    Otto is currently married with two children. He is an alumnus of the University of Hamburg and the University of Munich where he obtained his doctorate degrees.

    In 2013 , the net worth of Michael Otto was $14.20 billion however in 2015  it reached to the level of $18.1 billion .

  • Marks And Spencer Introducing Major Changes In Supply Chain

    Marks And Spencer Introducing Major Changes In Supply Chain

    Marks & Spencer has been going through a wide range of changes to adjust to changing demands of its, mainly middle aged, customers. After hiring new designers, overhauling its online offering and giving a facelift to stores, M&S is working hard  to push home its most ambitious project: overturning more than a century of retail history by taking full control of its supply chain.

    The company , founded in 1884, has always relied on third party suppliers to drive to create, manufacture and ship most of its garments. Taking control of the supply chain means a radical departure to create more flexibility in its quest to source faster . Long-term relationships with those mostly British-based firms, based on big orders and long lead times, helped M&S keep prices down and build a reputation for quality.

    But as its most loyal customers – women aged 50-plus – have become more fashion-conscious, the middlemen have hampered M&S’s ability to quickly refresh supplies of fast-selling items before shopper interest tails off.

    “There’s a killing to be made if they can serve older women better,” said Patsy Perry, a lecturer in fashion marketing at the University of Manchester. “Unless you have money to buy designer clothes, it’s hard to find what you want on the high street unless you want to look like your daughter.”

    Even as new M&S womenswear collections won praise from the fashion press, shoppers often found the clothes were sold out in their size or were not appropriate for the weather.In contrast, nimble retailers like Zara-owner Inditex , H&M and Next, which have more direct control over factories, replenish their stores faster and offer a more frequent turnover of styles.

    Pressure mounted on M&S Chief Executive Marc Bolland after a mild winter and delivery problems at the new online distribution centre hit Christmas trading, leading to a 14th consecutive quarterly sales decline in the clothing side of the business.

    But investors seem prepared to give Bolland more time after his revamp of the supply chain started to bear fruit.

    M&S’s gross margin – gross profit as a percentage of sales – rose 150 basis points to 53.7 percent in the first half of 2014, helped by sourcing gains, but still lags an estimated 64 percent at Next and 59 percent at Inditex.

    While taking tighter control of the company’s supply chain started several years ago, the final push is being given by Hong Kong-based brothers Neal and Mark Lindsey, whom Bolland appointed as joint sourcing directors last year.The pair previously worked at Next, where they pioneered “virtual manufacturing”, a process that enables designers to produce patterns and layout plans for cutting fabric so they can give precise instructions to distant factories.

    Adopting the Next model is a big shift for M&S, which until recently ordered most of its stock through so-called full service vendors — companies that designed, made, shipped and warehoused products before sending them to M&S for sale.

    Relationships with those suppliers often went back decades, and with one, Dewhirst, to the founding of the company: Michael Marks borrowed five pounds from wholesaler Isaac Dewhirst to launch a chain of penny bazaars in the northern city of Leeds. Dewhirst also introduced Mr Marks to Tom Spencer.

    As competition mounted in recent decades, M&S pushed partners like Dewhirst to move production overseas: 78 percent of its general merchandise now comes from Asia compared to just 22 percent from Europe, including Turkey, Italy and Britain.

    M&S has already taken control in the last few years of most logistics for the 40,000-odd shipping containers it fills a year, leaving detailed product design and factory liaison as the last jobs to come in-house.

    “All of us had to learn how to manage the supply chain, how to manage third-party logistics providers, how to manage freight, how to manage working capital on a much earlier purchase than previously,” said Zen Yaworsky, head of supply chain operations at M&S until 2010.

    “M&S now have to develop negotiation capability to go into a factory and negotiate from a position of intelligence,” said Yaworsky, who runs his own consultancy.

    That is easier said than done, according to experts who used to help M&S do just that.

    “At a board level, it makes a lot of sense. At the operational level, it is a lot more difficult,” said Bill Mills, a textile industry consultant who used to manage factories for M&S suppliers Courtaulds and Coats Viyella.

    “On the one level there are some cost savings, but on the other hand M&S will have to place resource in their buying offices, whether that be UK or local, to manage the factories. It is not a panacea.”

    M&S says it is already making big progress. It has halved the number of fabric suppliers in the last couple of years, so it can secure better prices at higher volumes from preferred mills.

    Bolland, in the job since 2010, wants to increase the proportion of products designed in-house to 60 percent by 2017 from 25 percent last year.

    The first garments sourced by the Lindsey brothers are coming into stores for the spring/summer season: “Spring/summer is bought at the moment with at least a lot more flexibility than it was done last year,” Bolland told analysts in January.

    A bigger proportion of orders will be left “open to buy” depending on demand and M&S is moving to deliver new products in 12 phases a year, up from six to eight, with some coming on a three-weekly basis – closer to Zara-style “fast fashion”. This is going to be a major change for M&S and its garment and fabric suppliers. It also means that they have to be more dynamically connected to the retailer to understand its changing requirements and need for quick fashion. On the whole, a major change is in offing . Whether it helps M&S to regain its role as Britain’s omnipotent retailer, needs to be seen.

    Source:Reuters.com

  • Denim Presentations | New Features on Denimsandjeans.com

    Happy to inform you in this new year that we are offering  a new section on our site- the Denim Presentations. This section has slideshow presentations on various denim related topics .  We are starting with over 80 presentations related to –season collections, marketing,  trend reports and more. All you need to do is go this section and keep on checking out the trend reports, manufacturing reports and more .  The idea of this section is to bring more of visual information to our readers in a format which is user friendly and interesting (specially with music aligned with most of these presentations)..

    But this is not all . Having created a lot of sections on our site and large amount of info being spread in these, many of our readers were finding it difficult their way through the site . So we have created an easy navigation on the top of our site which compiles most of these sections and you can easily browse through our whole site using them .

    denim trends aw'14

    See the image above. The navigation looks like this and is given on the top of our site. There are main categories  – Special Reports, Trends, Videos, Presenations , Jobs, Brands, Calculators and others. The categories have dropdowns as you can see above. Eg in TRENDS category, the dropdown (when you mouse over it ) shows sub categories like SS’15, AW’14, SS’14 etc . Clicking on any of these would take you to articles related to that season. So , if you want to see what are the latest trends for SS’15, just select that category from the top of our site – on any page on our site , and you will immediately see the list of articles and info related to SS’15.  Of if you want to use calculators on our site, just reach the calculators category and you

    denim calculators

    see a drop down for the two calculators on our site.  Similarly the video, jobs , data, presentations  and other sections of our site are easily accessible. 

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    Do send us your feedback at this email to let us know if you find it useful and if you have any suggestions on how we can make the site more useful for you.

  • Which Item Of Clothing Is Hardest To Buy Online ?

    7 For all Mankind Europe recently conducted a survey in UK with about 1000 people and asked them

    Which item of clothing is most difficult to buy online ?

    Being a FREE TEXT survey ie not with suggested answers, the consumers had no options to select from .  And ,still –

    29.5% Replied ————-Jeans

    So about a third of the respondents felt that  Jeans was the most difficult clothing item to purchase online. Jeans was followed by other products like Shoes and Footwear, Boxers & Knickers ,  Dresses etc  in their respective level of  difficult of purchase. See the chart below :

    image

    About 31% women found it more difficult to purchase jeans online as compared to about 29% men – and understandably so. Women , worldwide , are very particular when it comes to fits and Fit is one aspect which cannot be analyzed online. Though the actual percentages might differ from region to region, the preference to check fit and feel is important for women. However, with online sales becoming more and more important , the retailers have to find ways to satisfy their consumers on their areas of concern.
    Some myths also seem to have been busted in this survey by 7 FAM Europe . While it is also believed that women find it difficult to buy Bras online, it did not reflect in the survey where only about 2.5% women felt so .

    Here is a cool infographic by 7 FAM on their survey , giving many more details on the survey , including the regional trends and some interesting feedbacks.

    7 for all mankind Survey for clothing items purchase online

    Thanks to 7 FAM team for sharing the survey with us.

  • Free Denim Newsletter subscription

    All our free denim reports are  available in complete by email to all our subscribers who number over 2500.  However , sometimes we get requests  from many visitors to add their name in our subscribers list as they are not very clearly aware of the process.
    To help them and many others who might want to receive free reports related to the latest in denim world , we just put up this small screencast on how our Free Newsletter can be subscribed.   So in case you wish to subscribe to our newsletter , you know exactly what to do . In case  you are already subscribed and want to forward the details to your friends, just forward the message below .

     

    Subscribe to Free Denim Reports from www.Denimsandjeans.com 


    free denim reports subscription

    Once the email address is entered, the important part is to click on the confirmation link that you will get in your inbox. Sometimes, this email goes to junk box – so its better to check there as well.

    free denim newsletter

    Once you click on the confirmation link, you are all set and ready to receive your reports. In an (unlikely) event of your not wanting to continue receiving the newsletter, just click unsubscribe link given under each of the articles that you received..

    Thanks and all the best ..
    Team, Denimsandjeans.com

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  • Self Edge Launches Denim Repair Studio in San Francisco

    Self Edge is one of the most famous denim store in US  having antique and most authentic denims. Located in NY, San Francisco  and LA , the store carries a full line of denim clothing and jewelry from cutting edge designers and artists from Japan.
    Recently , they launched a denim repair studio – “Darn It” -  in San Francisco. Opened with a purpose to repair old and worn out jeans , the studio has some very special machines – 1950s Singer Darning Machines, a rare 43200G Union Special Chainstitching Machine and a 1920s Steel kick press. These are some very rare machines – specially the 43200G. Most of these machines were lapped up by the Japanese in the 80s and 90s and then it became really difficult to find them.
    So if you have an old favourite jeans which is wearing out and you do not want to lose it , it would be a good idea to get it repaired at “Darn- It” .

    Darn-It! specializes in hard-to-find services like chainstiched hems and fixing holes without the use of patches, but they can pull off just about any job you can imagine – from replacing buttons and zippers to fixing torn pocket bags and installing iron-riveted suspender buttons. Repairs cost a flat fee of $40 which is not less . But if your jeans is worth  a few hundred dollars (of cost and your personality print) , then sure its not a large amount.

    Darn it Denim Repair

    Darn It - Denim Repair

    Darn It - Denim Repair

    Image credit-Ecouterre

  • Art De’ Denim

    What can be the possible uses of discarded old jeans ? Let’s list them :

    • Recycling to create new fabric all over.
    • Being distributed for use by lesser fortunate strata of society .
    • Used for converting into bags, furnishings, shoes and more..
    • Being used for insulation purposes.
    • And many other similar uses.

    But can old jeans be used to create art pieces which sell for thousands of pounds/dollars ?

    Yes and this is exactly what an artist from London has done. An artist who uses old denim jeans to create pictures of London street scenes is taking the art world by storm.Ian Berry started making the denim pieces of art full-time after he was made redundant from his job as an art director.

    The 28-year-old hasn’t looked back since and recently returned from an art exhibition in Miami, Florida where his work fetched £4,500 a piece.This is the guy who changed his stage name to Denimu and made a career out of turning jeans into works of art.
    Ian conjures remarkably detailed portraits and urban landscapes using nothing more than discarded jeans. Over many weeks he cuts, stitches and glues using only the varying shades of the fabric to provide contrast and shadow. The effect is extraordinary.
    Ian’s denim epiphany came during a trip back to his childhood home in Huddersfield. During a big clear-out session, Ian found himself staring at a big pile of unwanted jeans destined for the charity shop. Affectionate memories came flooding back, along with a wave of tactile enthusiasm for the fabric. At that point, he knew he’d found the key to his artistic career.

    Among his collection are pictures of the London Underground, Piccadilly Circus, Hampstead Heath and Camden Town.Mr Berry was first inspired to take up his denim art when he found some old jeans while clearing his old room after returning home from university in 2006.To produce the works of art, Mr Berry cuts pieces of denim into precise shapes before painstakingly gluing them all together.Although he mainly uses old jeans he also likes to dabble with old denim jackets and dresses.

    To achieve different looks, he sometimes uses bleach, either with a stencil and spray, and  experiments with different colour jeans. Here are some of his art pieces ..

    Art From Old Pairs Of Denim Jeans by Ian Berry

    Art From Old Pairs Of Denim Jeans by Ian Berry

    Denim Art

    Art From Old Pairs Of Denim Jeans by Ian Berry

    Art From Old Pairs Of Denim Jeans by Ian Berry

    Art From Old Pairs Of Denim Jeans by Ian Berry

    Art From Old Pairs Of Denim Jeans by Ian Berry

    Art From Old Pairs Of Denim Jeans by Ian Berry

    Art From Old Pairs Of Denim Jeans by Ian Berry

    Denim Art

    Finding the correct piece of denim, even for the smallest detail in his pictures, can take up to half a day.He has made around 80 pictures so far but says the rate at which he makes them will decrease as  he spends more time on each individual piece. It goes on show how difficult it is to produce such art ..

    And you thought that  manufacturing jeans was a great art !!!

    via Amazing World Pictures

  • Happy New Year 2013

     

    Wishing all our readers , followers , critics and supporters –

    A Merry Christmas  and Best Wishes for a Happy New Year .

    May the New Year 2013 be Full of Happiness, Health and Success For All Of You !!!!!!

    Denim Christmas

  • Yarn Conversion Calculator

    Remember our “GSM  and Fabric weight calculator”  that we had put on our site last year for helping to convert the weight of fabric into GSM and  Oz/Sq. Yd and vice versa ? 
    We are now adding another calculator to this section – the “Yarn conversion calculator” . This calculator is useful for converting the yarn parameters into different units at one go.
    Eg , what is the conversion of 600 Denier into English Cotton Counts and Tex and Metric systems ? Just enter 600 , select Denier and click ‘ Convert It’..  You will immediately find the values of 600 Denier converted into different Yarn count systems and even those like Linen and woolen systems.

    Yarn Conversion calculator

    For easy remembrance of our calculator section, just remember our site name ie Denimsandjeans.com and add ‘Calculators’ after a slash – www.denimsandjeans.com/calculators

    If our readers suggest need for more calculators , we will put them up . Just leave in comments below .

  • New Denim Data Sections Launched

    We are happy and proud to announce the public launch of  new data sections related to denim industry. These sections provide various kinds of information and data related to denim industry worldwide.
    To explain better, we have first created a video below from these sections which you can see here and then I can explain what these sections are about ..

    Denim Buyers in USA and Shippers Worldwide

    This section gives micro information on the shipments made related to denim products from around the world to US . Thus it would be possible to find out which companies in US are buying what denim products from which factories and suppliers around the world  . The contacts of buyers and suppliers both would be visible so that the members can benefit from their availability. 
    Since the data is searchable, it would be possible to see , eg , which are the important suppliers from ‘Vietnam’ to US or to find the companies in US and around which are buying denim products from China.. 
    We have created the databases since the period starting 2008 mid.

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    shipper and buyers

    Macro Data on Imports into US and EU

    • Want to find out how much were exports of Jeans from Bangladesh to EU in 2005
    • or from China to US in 2011 .
    • Check this section to know which countries are becoming important suppliers of denim products to these regions. Also find their average export prices and volumes etc.

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    The data shows shipments made from 2000 to the latest available period and is helpful in sourcing and management decisions.

    India Denim Fabric Exports

    Our third section deals with checking out the prices and volumes of shipments made by Indian denim mills to countries around the world .. Thus it would be possible to have an idea of fabric prices and trends for shipments made from India . Also, it would be interesting to find the countries where more Indian fabric is being shipped. But , no mills or buyer names would be available in these reports and these would be more of macro reports of statistical nature.

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    Besides the above three, we also have a denim buyer section where buyers of jeans and denim products from some countries are listed.

    The above sections are constantly updated enabling our subscribers to get new info on a regular basis. To get more info on these sections including pricing etc, contact us here

  • Orta Anadolu– Social Denim Missions

    Denim – the ever versatile fabric –has seen growth over the last 130 years like no other fabric has seen. We can easily associate denim with fashion , comfort, durability , verstaility , sturdiness and whole lot of such qualities.  But is there any association of denim with Charity , with Social causes , with an effort to improve lives ????

    Normally , it is difficult to find such an association.

    Orta Anadolu

    Orta BlueOrta Anadolu (Turkey) is one of the most reputed denim mill around the world and it is one of the very few companies which has made such an  association for denim – successfully. Through their social arm – Orta Blu – Orta Anadolu is trying to make an impact on the lives of poorest of people. It has undertaken a number of social missions around the world to in this direction. As Orta describes :

    “Social Missions are a new form of charity in which the donor’s product becomes the catalyst of the operation. Denim is what we know how to do well. Using denim we have launched a series of initiatives that are helping local NGOs in 3 different continents to sustain their programs. We travel to the field, roll our sleeves, and approach the problems with the determination to make a difference and the know-how of an international business. We train the local people , we spend time with them. We share their everyday lives to better understand how we can help. As we try to solve a problem, many others come up. We go back and look for partners whose business could help solve the new problems. We call it the life loop. We don’t recycle just denim. We try to recycle life too and help people get a fresh start..”

    One of the missions among the various undertaken by Orta ,   is “ THE SCHOOL UNIFORM PROJECT “

    Many African children do not send their children to school because they cannot afford to buy  a school uniform.  Orta Blu launches a School Uniform Design contest with SCAD , Savannah School or Art and Design.

    School unform design - denimschool uniform design in denim

    school uniforms in denim 2

    The winning design is used to manufacture free school uniforms for children around the world.

    Now , the other part of this story . The Women’s Association is a small NGO that’s a part of a UNICEF programme in a Lebanese village. It had to shut down its literacy programme because of lack of funds. Orta Blu , under the supervision of UNICEF , supplied them with denim , new equipment , and training to manufacture school uniforms.

    Denim uniforms

    Denim uniforms

    Denim unforms lebanon

    School uniforms - denim

    After this process of uniform manufacturing is over , Orta Blu purchases the uniforms and delivers them to children locally and in Africa.

    African childrenDenim Orta Blue

    Besides the African children getting the uniforms ,  20 jobs are created with the manufacturing of the uniforms . The money from the sale of the uniforms allows the Lebanese Women’s Association to restart their literacy programme and enroll a number of children.

    Lebanese child in the school

    So this programme has  created many jobs, helped many  children stay in school through a literacy program, and has made it affordable to attend school for hundreds of more children in 2 continents. It has created a large online community made of the most diverse people. Its globalization at its best !

    This is one of the commendable social missions undertaken by Orta Blu . They have undertaken many other such missions .Want to know more about their social missions ? Contact Orta here

    Orta

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