Denimandjeans | Global Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide

Category: Interviews

  • A Talk With Baber Sultan From Artistic Milliners

    A Talk With Baber Sultan From Artistic Milliners

    Artistic Milliners has been fore-runner in global textile industry and has spearhead denim innovation and sustainability, continually pushing the boundaries of what a pair of jeans can be!
    Their collections are valued by global brands and retailers and are keenly awaited . We are highly excited that the AM team will be launching their Aw25 collection at our Japan show !

    We recently interviewd Mr. Baber Sultan , Director Product & Research for his insights on what they have been doing lately and the collection that they will be launching at our Japan show . We share the discussion below :

    a) Artistic Milliners is recognized as one of the most reputed global denim producers. What do you think have been the key ingredients for this success. 


    If I had to sum it up, I believe Artistic Milliner’s success as a globally recognized denim producer stems from a few key principles. We relentlessly pursue advancements in denim fabrics and production processes, always seeking to push the boundaries of innovation. Sustainability is at the heart of everything we do, driving us to minimize our environmental footprint.  As a vertically integrated company, we oversee every step of the process in-house, ensuring exceptional quality and flexibility. We collaborate closely with global brands, understanding their unique needs and delivering tailored denim solutions.  And of course, we empower our people and invest in cutting-edge technology.  Lastly, we recognize our responsibility extends beyond the products – we are committed to ethical practices and making a positive impact on our communities.

    b) Recently we hear about a lot of focus on Regenerative Cotton by AM. Why do you think this is important for you? Do you think regenerative cotton can be more important than other sustainable cotton fibers. 

    Yes, regenerative cotton holds the potential to become even more important than other existing sustainable cotton fibers. Unlike organic options that focus on minimizing harm, or recycled fibers that conserve resources, regenerative cotton proactively rebuilds soil health, promotes biodiversity, and captures carbon. This results in stronger, higher-quality fibers for more durable denim while offering significant environmental benefits. While challenges like upfront investment in new farming practices and developing consistent certifications exist, the overall benefits make regenerative cotton a compelling choice for a more holistic and long-term sustainable denim industry. As consumer awareness and supply increase, expect to see regenerative cotton play an increasingly dominant role in denim production. That’s why we’ve ventured into the space with AM-REGEN, as part of a holistic pilot project aimed at exploring more sustainable cotton cultivation methods. We are providing regenerative cotton to partners such as Jack & Jones.

    The regenerative agriculture pilot project is being executed in Rahim Yar Khan, Pakistan, with close collaboration between Artistic Milliners, the World Wildlife Fund-Pakistan, and local government bodies. The initiative follows Control Union’s certification programme, RegenAgri.

    c) Star Fades has been a success story in nearshoring and sustainable quick response to market needs. You are also expanding this to Guatemala in some way. Can you give more details on the same. 

    Yes, when SFI has been great for us. When we acquired them in 2020 we had a vision: to be the one-stop shop for denim development with a global reach. Guatemala is a step in that direction.

    SFI customers can now take advantage of our partner Denimville’s speedy close-to-market production. Known for quick turns on samples and production, the more than 750,000-square-foot facility can produce 400,000 units and 1,500 samples per month. The factory offers garment sewing, washing and dyeing, sustainable ozone and waterless finishing, and dry processing. This network can save six to seven weeks of transportation time compared to production coming from Asia, SFI reports, allowing customers to respond to trends, avoid retail markdowns and offer just-in-time deliveries. Ultimately we want our Western Hemisphere customers  seamlessly execute their vision with our teams from fabric to finishing, and our teams from Pakistan, Mexico, and Guatemala are geared to help them do that.

    d) We thank you for deciding to launch your AW 24-25 collection at Denimsandjeans Japan in March’24. Can we have some hints on what makes this collection special. 

    The collection we are perhaps most excited about is one that stems from a collaboration with Mr. Masaaki Sakaguchi, called Shogun. Shogun aims to combine the timeless allure of Japanese denim, reimagined for the modern wardrobe. It honors the legendary craftsmanship of Japan, blending it seamlessly with cutting-edge advancements for unparalleled comfort, superior washability, and a conscious approach to production showcasing the slubby, textured beauty that made Japanese denim famous, infused with subtle stretch for everyday ease. We truly believe in Japan being the “second root” of denim and the honour of working with a master like Sakaguchi san is meant to encapsulate that.


    e) We understand AM is trying to increase its recycled fibers usage in different ways. How has been the progress in this direction? 

    There has! We recently worked with Lenzing on a new approach to blending Tencel and recycled cotton fibers. The product is called  32MM, a new Tencel fiber that is optimized to create soft fabrications that have the authentic character of a classic cotton jean. The fiber’s unique structure has enabled us to scale its use of recycled cotton in our fabrics. Compared to traditional Tencel, the shorter 32MM fiber has better compatibility with cotton and allows it to blend more cohesively with fibers of modest length. It also has a greater surface area, which allows more recycled fiber to bind to it. Traditionally Tencel can be blended with up to 30 percent recycled cotton, but 32MM can carry up to 50 percent as per our research so far. The recycled fibers come from our proprietary recycling facility Circular Park.


    f) Reducing impact through better dyes usage becomes critical to reduce carbon footprint. Do you think working in this direction is also helping you to give better products while reducing the footprint .

    Yes it certainly has, and has led to some very fruitful and innovative collaborations. We worked with Archroma to leverage their Diresul Evolution Black dyestuff for our collections. It is said to be their cleanest sulfur black dye ever and has enabled us achieve authentic black denim and washdown effects with a lower impact compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid. Overall it uses 58 percent fewer natural resources and produces less carbon dioxide during dye synthesis compared to standard black dyes, the company states. This reduces workers’ exposure to harmful compounds by 59 percent. We also partnered with partnered with Leonardo DiCaprio backed biochemicals innovator Nature Coatings on a range of 100-percent cotton products made with BioBlack TX, an alternative to petroleum-based black-tone dye. The carbon-negative black pigment is derived from industrial wood waste that comes from sustainably managed, certified sources.

    For contacting them, please mail here.

  • Nicolas Prophte – A Talk On Denim Sustainability

    Nicolas Prophte – A Talk On Denim Sustainability

    Nicolas is a well known global denim leader and as former VP of PVH denim center in Amsterdam, he has been a trailblazer when it comes to sustainability. Nicolas helped bring to life initiatives like PVH’s first circular denim collection, which follows the Ellen MacArthur Foundation Jeans Redesign guidelines, and introduced new innovations to help accelerate the creation of lower impact denim. He’s also led the signing of the Dutch Denim Deal for PVH Europe, a first-of-its-kind industry collaboration to foster the use of high-grade recycled cotton in denim. We recently had a word with him to understand how he sees the progress on various sustainability

    Nicolas, you have been tirelessly working on the Denim Deal . Are you happy with the progress?

    Yes definitely, we launched this unique collaborative platform 3 years ago between brands, the denim industry and the Dutch government to accelerate the use of recycled cotton fiber made of post consumer waste textile.

    The journey and the transformation progress that we have been through as a group is such a rich experience, and on top of that, we delivered encouraging results towards our goals respectively quantitative but more important qualitative.

    We created a movement towards circularity based on “Design from waste” and we are arriving at the end of our first chapter in December 2023 but we are ready to expand our geographical footprint with key markets in Europe as Germany and France in priority, but also looking at other continents where we could bring the same collaborative ecosystem using our guidelines and methodology from our first experience.

    Where do you think the denim industry will be in terms of environment friendliness in next 3 years.

    Under the policy maker framework and brands more proactive towards responsible practices the industry will have to engage in serious changes in their production process and the way they source their fibers. As fiber and material production represent 50% of Carbon emission in the whole textile supply chain cycle, the big focus could be decarbonation.

    To engage in such a strategic move, a global energy transition plan will be necessary to move out from fossil energies and engage renewable ones at scale. It will require time, heavy investments from the industry and support from the brands to keep their business commitment while giving visibility to their partners.

    At the same time, the use of natural regenerative fibers that could capture carbon and ensure soil health by restoring biodiversity is also an important step. The adoption of recycled cotton versus virgin cotton is also a path towards circularity that could minimize impact on our environment.

    Finally on the laundry side we should continue the efforts towards reducing the use of water and invest at the same time in the latest recycling water technology. Same for the use of chemicals , reduce their use as much as possible while engaging new alternative responsible chemistry already available on the market.

    With recent changes coming up in the regulatory environment in Europe, do you think that the supply chain has geared up to  implement the necessary changes required?

    There are many regulations cooking as we speak  in EU parliament and the difficulty at this stage is mainly for the brands to have a proper understanding of what is coming up and how they have to organize their supply chain in order to be aligned with these compliances.

    On top of this the other issue is a lack of alignment between different key EU countries regarding , for example , the EPR system already engaged in France and Netherlands recently in July 2023. The scope, the mechanism of such a system is different between the 2 countries and brands who are putting their goods in these markets will have to adapt to these regional specificities, adding an extra layer of complexity to manage for them.

    Finally as the market is extremely tense in Europe in tem of fashion consumption, brands are also losing focus on such upcoming regulations and tend to protect their business, while focusing on pure commercial metrics in order to keep or gain market share towards competition.

    In such a foggy environment the fashion industry and suppliers based outside Europe have even less visibility on what will be the consequences on their organizations as their own customers, brands still navigating in stormy weather.

    Even if we still have some extra  time for pure implementation, brands need to wake up pretty fast on these strategic topics while policymakers need to bring clarity and alignment to avoid cacophony.

    How do you compare the brick and mortar vs e-commerce biz of the brands. Do you think that at some point of time the share of these would settle down in a range or do you see E-commerce getting more and more important .

    The last few years with Covid particularly we have seen e-com channel growing extremely fast and now reducing a bit while brick&mortar was announced almost dead. I believe that you can see different success stories or failures from brands in this environment.

    The brand experience from a consumer perspective is the most valuable asset and whatever the distribution channel, the product offer, the story telling and quality of exposure and engagement should be the same. Most of the time you can see discrepancies between a brand retail experience in a physical shop compared to the same brand e-com website environment.

    The most powerful brands ensure the same quality level of experience and generate higher buying conversion. So I believe a good balance between different distribution channels is healthy while investing in an inspiring retail environment and ecom ecosystem are strategic and complementary to retain customers loyalty.

    The international environment for business has been affected by various geopolitical issues. Do you see that the denim consumer  will somehow get used to them and regain a natural consumption pattern.

    Indeed the geopolitical tensions had created multiple ripple effects on the European economy with many impacts on the consumers and degraded their purchasing power.

    The macroeconomics was affected with high inflation consequently in the EU last year and started to decrease a little bit now but the consumers had to deal with various increases with energy prices, food, gasoline,housing and manufacturing goods in general.

    Unfortunately during the same period wages and salaries did not follow the same trend and therefore consumers are under strong financial pressure and we can see a shift of their behaviors.

    Therefore Fashion, sports manufacturing goods or even gardening business are becoming secondary expenses far from the vital basics in general. Consumer arbitration is a key factor in this environment and since Covid we can also see a shift towards spending money rather on experiences, social life , traveling rather than possessing goods.

    Even the French government released last week a very controversial TV commercial encouraging not spending money on unnecessary goods and creating awareness on the environmental impact of consumption.

    The short term visibility is not showing some positive economic metrics so we may have another challenging 2024 year in Europe and at the same time maybe we are assisting to a deeper transformation of the way we consume fashion goods in the long term.

    For contacting him , please email here.

  • CONE DENIM – A Talk With Kevin Reardon

    CONE DENIM – A Talk With Kevin Reardon

    Is there anyone in denim industry who does not know Cone Denim . The pioneer of denim fabrics , the company was founded in 1891 in Greensboro, NC out of the entrepreneurial spirit of brothers Moses and Ceasar Cone and grounded in American heritage and tradition, Cone Denim is focused on finding new concepts, new materials, and new technologies to provide the customers with innovative and unique solutions. They received some accolades from Kontoor brands besides some other exciting developments. We thought to get their latest updates in the context of product developments and talked with Kevin Reardon, SVP Commercial Strategy, Cone Denim about their latest collections and innovations.

    First of all congratulations for achieving Bronze status through the Indigood programme of Kontoor brands. Please tell us more about it.

    Cone Denim received the Bronze Status through Kontoor Brands Indigood® Program for freshwater savings. With this milestone, we are the first textile mill in North America to be awarded the performance status of Bronze or better from the Indigood Program. Mills participating in the Indigood Program are third-party verified for their water savings.

    Water savings is a key pillar for our sustainability initiatives, and Cone Denim has set an aggressive goal to reduce water consumption of 25% by 2025. We are on target to meet this goal with Cone Denim achieving 21.8% water savings (as reported at the end of 2022), which has largely been led by our Zero Liquid Discharge installation at our mill in Parras, Mexico. This state-of-the-art wastewater treatment system saves 100 million gallons of water annually by recycling the water used in the denim manufacturing process.

    How does becoming a member of Circulose Supplier network of Renewcell benefits Cone Denim and your customers?

    Cone Denim joined the CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network, a network comprised of yarn and textile producers committed to streamlining and increasing CIRCULOSE® production across the supply chain. Our partnership in the CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network underscores our ongoing commitment to drive change toward a sustainable future.

    We are committed to increasing the percentage of recycled and circular fiber content in the denim fabrics we design, develop, and bring to market. Joining the CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network is among several initiatives Cone Denim is undertaking as part of our leading role in influencing the adoption of circularity in the industry.

    Our customers can look forward to more options that incorporate more circular content, more recycled content, and more sustainable fibers into Cone Denim styles that maintain the authenticity and character of classic denim. We anticipate releasing our first commercial fabric with the CIRCULOSE® fiber in early 2024.

    Speaking about your most recent collection, what products do you think stand out the most and why?

    We recently released our Spring Summer 2025 collection and are getting a great response from denim brands on the new line.

    Our Remastered capsule focuses on scalable sustainability and denim fabrics designed for longevity. They are designed to be timeless and will go the distance regarding wash range and versatility in end use. They all are in a classic denim construction. The denim fabrics in this capsule encompass a range of recycled content from 5%-100%. We are seeing strong interest from brands with fabrics constructed of 100% post-industrial waste (PIW).

    Since releasing the new line, we’ve had a lot of energy around our novelty capsule, Midnight Voyage. This capsule is a vignette of novelty fabrics that include a variety of stripes, a herringbone weave, and colors.

    We have also had positive reactions to Lagoon Blue, a brilliant, turquoise-cast indigo, and our super soft authentic Tencel blends as part of our “In the Clouds” concept. 

    There is an emphasis on texture as a statement this season. We designed versatile fabrics suitable for various silhouettes and sizes, regardless of whether it’s a classic denim construction or a novelty weave or color.

    Our Etched in Texture concept is a compilation of crosshatch, marble, and pronounced slub character styles. To answer the market need for more pronounced character, we created a menu of yarn textures from subtle to bolder.

    What do you think have been the biggest changes in the denim world that you can experience post covid and with the unstable political situation?

    The macroeconomic situation with inflation has resulted in the industry experiencing some softness, but things are picking up as brands work through their inventories. While business is not as strong as we want, we are seeing demand return as global denim inventories decline.

    Denim brands are looking to make wash and sizing decisions much later in the buying cycle, which is pushing some sourcing for the U.S. market back into the North American hemisphere. We are also seeing increased demand for recycled content and any fabric attributes that can tell a documentable, sustainable story. Our customers are seeking options that include more circular content, more recycled content, and more sustainable fibers in styles that maintain the authenticity and character of classic Cone Denim.

    You participated in the Denimsandjeans Vietnam show this year. How was your experience there?

    This was a wonderful event gathering different players in the country and within the region. From local brands, garment makers, and fiber suppliers to machinery manufacturers. The show was well attended with informative forums and valuable market intel takeaways after the two-day event!

    Contact the CONE DENIM team here.

  • HAP Japan – The Innovation Company

    HAP Japan – The Innovation Company

    When we started our Denimsandjeans Japan show , we came in touch with a very innovative company from Japan – HAP. This company is a research oriented company and is working with various universities and research centres in Japan to bring out applications for apparel including denim. These applications , over 30 , are wide and varied and give various functions to the apparel – improving its life, properties and value addition. As a result of this research, they recently received the Japanese PM technology award. A great friend of ours – Mr Moto Suzuki – is a regular participant in our Japan shows and we thought to do a Q&A with him on what this award is all about which he brings with his brand COVEROSS® .

    Congratulations on winning the Prime Minister’s technology award. What was the product from COVEROSS® which brought this award?

    Comprehensive COVEROSS® circular fashion based on COVEROSS® technology won the Prime Minister’s Award.The first generation “COVEROSS® Technology” can give fabrics more than 30 multi-functionalities by combining unique technologies such as photocatalysts (Self-cleaning, antibacterial, antivirus, deodorization, UV protection, heat shielding, cooling sensation, warming, water absorption and diffusion, anti-see-through, sweat stain reduction, anti-static, anti-pilling, parasympathetic nerve predominance, sympathetic nerve predominance, etc ).
    Regardless of whether it is a natural fiber or a synthetic fiber, it maintains breathability and texture, and its wash resistance can be adjusted.

    In addition, we have developed “COVEROSS® Laundry”, which can be developed in small lots and in a short time, and can provide comfortable multi-functionality with adjustable functionality concentration. “COVEROSS® Laundry” can significantly reduce water and energy consumption during the function imparting process. In addition, by developing a spray type product, we can optimally customize functionality to specific parts of clothing (for example, when it’s hot, it cools the neck, shoulders, and armpits, and warms the abdomen). 

    You mentioned that over 30 multi functionalities can be given to new or second hand fabrics or garments. How does this really work as specially in case of second hand clothing it would be very difficult to do so.

    At present, it is not possible to add functions to all garments, but it is possible to add various functions to many garments. After inspection, we first use special processing to make it ready to add functionality. We then add a variety of functionality using COVEROSS®’s optimal technology. In the future, if we can obtain product information (the entire supply chain) through blockchain and IC tagging of new products, we will be able to add high-spec functionality to more new and used clothing. COVEROSS®︎’s IC tag information has several stages. The first objective is to manage supply chain information such as the environmental impact and human rights risks of primary products. In the future, we will further consider ways to link products to lifestyles, such as product collection, automatic sorting, reuse, and optimal recycling information management, as well as user health information and collaboration with local governments.

    Breathability in synthetic fiber’ – is this brought at the post garment stage or at the fiber stage ?

    This is possible at both the fiber (fabric) stage and the garment stage. If a binder is used to add functionality, the garment or fabric will become stiff and have poor breathability. COVEROSS®’s unique technology allows you to adjust the breathability and texture even if you add functionality.

    What is the ‘COVEROSS® Laundry’ . How does it work and who can implement it and how ?

    First of all, we have started implementing it in Japan. As shown on our website, we have also started a B to C service to make used clothes last longer and upgrade them. We have also started services for apparel companies, local governments etc. With COVEROSS® Laundry, you can customize over 30 types of functionality to various garments. For example, multiple functions such as antibacterial, cooling, UV protection, heat shielding, cooling effect, quick drying, warming effect, etc. can be customized at the same time. Hap has already begun collaborating with Japan’s largest reuse company and major apparel companies to add functionality to reused products. Adding COVEROSS® functions has made it possible to extend the product life and increase its value.

    Website – COVEROSS LAUNDRY

    You also plan to address issues related to ageing – like dementia- through your clothing. Is this something which has already been launched ?

    COVEROSS® heat stroke prevention wear will start in 2024. COVEROSS® dementia prevention wear is currently undergoing demonstration testing and is scheduled to go on sale from 2025 to 2026 . Check out the video below to understand our applications better.

    Japanese Version :

    服についた醤油のシミが水洗いだけできれいに？ (jstories.media)

    For more details , contact the company here

  • A Talk With Adriano Goldschmied

    A Talk With Adriano Goldschmied

    There are some people in different industries who don’t need an introduction . They are market leaders , revered and followed so much due to their innumerable contributions to the industry. That is the reason, our guest who is a serial brand creator, innovator and mentor and guide to the denim industry – Adriano Goldschmied – does not need any introduction. Fondly known as the ‘Godfather of denim‘ , Adriano has never stopped working ever since he stepped into this industry and has been a juggernaut of creativity during so many decades of his work.
    We always try to catch up with him in some months as we know he must have already moved ahead with his work creating something better. Its always a pleasure to talk to him and we reproduce our discussion with him regarding the relaunching of House of Gold and other projects.

    Adriano, with your extensive experience and legacy in the denim industry, what inspired you to relaunch House of Gold and embark on this new journey in the current denim landscape? 

    Fabrics are a very important step in the design process and sometimes to buy fabrics from collections for me  is not enough. On one side I have very clear ideas about what I want in term of circularity, sustainability and aesthetic and I cannot say away from that process and make it happen. In addition I really care not only about what I do in design in my projects but also to bring innovation to the entire segment and try to improve our industry and have influence on the all chain. Bringing to the market the right products is the right thing to do if we like to mark the road of the improvement of our industry. House of Gold rebirth  is about this, help the brands to choose the right products and fight for a lower impact. 

    The denim industry has evolved significantly over your illustrious career. Could you tell us about the changes you’ve observed and how House of Gold plans to adapt and thrive in this dynamic environment? 

    Probably somebody will smile… but when I started my career,  laundry business was not existing,  denim was available only made in US and not available in Europe and no Asia, the chemical industry was dedicated only to pollute the world with pesticide and the word “sustainability” was totally unknown and  “ethic” in the industry even less. Water  at that time  was considered always available.So today when I turn back and I see what we all did looks to live in another planet thinking about all the progresses. Unfortunately it is not enough plus we do not have another 50 years, we need to give proper answers max in a few decades and arrive to a neutral industry. And this still not enough, when we arrive to be neutral we have to  start a process of fixing and repair all the damages that we created. House of Gold plan is to be part of this process in the segment that we operate and push more we can in this direction.

    The collaboration with Filippo Donati is very intriguing. What specifically attracted you to collaborate together?

     Filippo is coming from the elevated textile distribution business bringing in US the best Italian/European mills, my background is a life in Denim. Merging our two experiences is bringing to that table something very special and our common passion for what we do is gas on the fire..

    The House of Gold has always been associated with innovation. Can you provide some insights into the innovative strategies or technologies you plan to incorporate into your denim offerings under this new venture with Rajby? 

    It too early to be specific, with Raiby Textiles we bringing this process, called “beluga” that is champion in sustainability and not by accident we got, only company in the world, the Diamond & Diamond certification, in long term our goal is to increase the percentage of eco fibers,  recycled, natural and manmade. Our dream is to eliminate fossil fibers and reduce more we can the use of virgin cotton and give more land  for food that is what humanity really need.

    The relaunched Daily Blue collection seems to have a strong emphasis on sustainability and innovation. Can you share some specific details about the sustainability initiatives and innovative features that will set this collection apart in the market?

     Daily Blue for now is a very small brand that is testing and experimenting paths that are important in our industry, just to mention a few things, we are using fabrics with percentage of recycled fibers, hemp, Tercel, biodegradable buttons, biodegradable pocket lining and at the laundry we work as partners with Soko in Italy reducing dramatically the use of water, chemicals and energy. We are starting now to go into a severe digitalization with Tukatech that today is changing the way we create a develop product and the way we offer the product to the market.

    For more details contact Adriano’s team here.

  • San Shing @ Japan

    San Shing @ Japan

    San Shing is a dynamic company from China / HK specializing in manufacturing and trading various denims. With core products being specialized items like Jacquard denims , printed denims and other non- basic denims . Dealing with a limited quantity but very high quality products, San Shing deals with some of the most high end brands in the world. They also consider Japan as an important market and we were happy to have them join the second edition of our Denimsandjeans Show in Japan on March 26-27. We spoke to Vincent Lai from San Shing to understand more about their background and marketing strategies.

    Our readers would like to know more about the background of San Shing . Please do throw some light on your growth journey

    SAN SHING was developed in the early 1990s and is run by family members. In the early stages of the company’s development, it has been engaged in yarn trading and textile machinery and equipment trading. In 2000, it was decided to add factories, equipment, technical personnel and sales offices in Guangdong, and officially invested in the development of the denim industry, which has continued to this day. It is a textile enterprise that pursues technological innovation and focuses on high-quality denim. 

    As the buyer demands on sustainability increase without an assisting price increase, how   are you still working ahead with your sustainability goals? Do state some key achievements and goals.

    First of all, we strive to find high-quality raw materials to produce sustainable and environmentally friendly fabrics. After all, sustainable denim, especially products such as recycled cotton, use high-cost production methods to make ordinary, rough denim products. When customers receive sustainable denim products, they generally don’t accept the feel. It is environmentally friendly and has good hand feel and quality. I highly recommend Lenzing products. At least you can feel the improvement of fabrics in Lenzing products. Although the price is not what customers like, customers are still willing to buy high-quality products.

    I think the idea of ​​Buy Less is still more important than creating environmental effects. Our insistence on environmental protection requires sacrifice. Price competition should not be used to drive the consumers to overspend. The value comes back to premium product quality. Unfortunately, large merchants engaged in the global denim industry have too much supply. As the purchasing power of denim decreases in demand every year, manufacturers compete on price for monthly output. This is also the biggest reason why the unit price cannot be increased.

    What are the key product lines and collections you would like to display at 2nd Edition of DNJ Japan.

    Environmentally friendly and recycled products will appear, but more products will be functional and exquisite and fashionable fabrics. We will carry a series of ready-to-wear boutiques in cooperation with designers, garment factories, and washing plants. With multiple perspectives, the product will look different from traditional denim. Combination of jacquard and coating, functional left-slant denim, environmentally friendly Lenzing Tencel products, Foil and Metallic, colors include Smart Blue, Magic Black, Two Tone Color. We understand that traditional denim products, brands already have enough supply, and we will not compete in that market. We will promote the Authentic of San Shing denim that we have always believed in.

    If a brand likes our fabrics, we will take the initiative to put them in touch with the garment industry. We also hope that our cooperative and friendly garment-making and washing roles will be rewarded.

    Do you think Japan is an important market? Is it different from other markets in terms of quality requirements , prices etc

    Demand for denim is declining, even in Japan. A new generation is losing its love for denim. People prefer sports and functional clothing, which is the preference of the new generation. We try to add new ideas to change into a more fashionable indigo textile instead of denim. Price competition is not something we are willing to accept. We prefer product development, develop small and medium-sized fashion markets, and try to maintain price dominance.

    We are willing to try to develop in Asia, and Japan is one of the markets that we can try. We don’t need a huge purchasing power like the United States, but we need to find the right place that is committed to clothing and, in addition to the general direction of environmental protection, also likes new things. Japan is where we see opportunities. Japan has many creative companies. We are willing to cooperate with brands, big or small, because they will drive our growth.

    For more details contact Vincent here.

  • Pioneer Denim @ Japan – A Talk With Hasibul Huda

    Pioneer Denim @ Japan – A Talk With Hasibul Huda

    Continuing our series of interactions with various globally reputed manufacturers of denim, we today bring out a talk with the marketing head of Pioneer Denim Bangladesh – Hasibul Huda. Pioneer denim is one of the fastest growing vertical operation of denim globally with a special focus on sustainability at all levels of their operations. As Pioneer Denim joins our show in Japan on March 26-27 2024 for the second edition , we try to get more insights into what they are doing . Hasibul Huda shares his views with us .

    We welcome you back to our Denimsandjeans Japan show ! What was your feeling about the last edition?
    We are really excited and looking forward to taking part in Japan’s show. Last edition was great in all aspects. The experience was memorable as we got the opportunity to showcase our new collections, innovations and expertise to a group of new growing denim brands. The passionate denim lovers and visitors showed a lot of enthusiasm and interest on the denims displayed in the show. Visitors were good in numbers and we received very positive feedback from them. We believe, the next edition is going to be even better.  

    Pioneer group is growing so wonderfully. We understand that in spite of the poor business climate, the company has been progressing very strongly. What do you think is the secret sauce ?
    Yes, we are having a steady growth despite of having the current hostile market situation. Thanks to our policy and strategy makers as their leadership paved the way to overcome this situation. We always tried to stick to our core operational strategy in last few years, such as, producing good quality and market oriented products, offering better lead time and maintaining a healthy partnerships with our business partners around the world with direct communication.        

     


    Garmenting, we understand , is your next dream segment which will make you completely vertical. What are the plans for the same and how it will affect your business
    This is no longer a dream; It is a reality now. Because, the garmenting infrastructure is almost ready to go for production in large scale. In fact, a pilot project is already running and producing fewer pieces of garments each day taking fabric from its own mill. The group is witnessing an excellent vertical integration of its operation as it has created a production chain from fiber to fashion. In near future, the garment unit will have a mammoth production capacity and will have a lot to offer to our partners. Such as – shortest production lead time, excellent quality consistency and development support.      
    What are the most important products that you have created recently which have been highly appreciated
    We are focusing more on performance oriented denims at this moment. Most of our recent developments include blended and performance yarns. Our latest remarkable developments are indigo free denim, fabric made with wools blended yarn and so on. In addition, we are now also focusing on fashion oriented product development as denim is no longer a basic apparel any more.  


    5.What collection are you going to present to Japanese customers? Will it differ from that in other markets ?
    We will mainly showcase some price point collection in this edition due to the market condition. However, there will also be some premium collections and innovations exclusive focusing on traditional unique Japanese market taste. As sustainability is concerned, we are also including our sustainable range which will include , ecofriendly dyeing and finishing, different new color casts, etc.  

    Mail to this email id for more details and contacting the exhibitor .

    About : Md Hasibul Huda with his 16 years of denim experience has been leading the marketing team of Pioneer Denim since its first day of commercial production in 2018. With the vision to grow beyond the traditional market and to reach end-buyers directly to understand and cater their needs for sustainable business growth, is the key success for Pioneer Denim led by Hasib.

  • A Talk With Billy Wong – Lucky Textiles Group

    A Talk With Billy Wong – Lucky Textiles Group

    Lucky Textiles is one of the well known and reputed textiles companies from HK/China. With a wide span of products, the group engages in premium textile and apparel production and works with global brands like Gap, Levi’s , VF etc. Lucky Textiles constantly innovates and develops new products in denim and other series of new, superior and special products for high value-added clothes. Lucky Textiles joined the first edition of Denimsandjeans show in Japan and are again joining the second edition on March 26-27. We wanted to know more about the company, its products and its understanding of the Japanese market. We spoke with Billy Wong – VP Global Sales and Marketing – about the same and are sharing his views here.

    We welcome you back to the Denimsandjeans Japan show . How was your experience in the first edition in 2022 specially keeping in mind that the covid situation was prevailing

    I think the most successful part is the quality of the buyer/visitor, we already generate some order from the show we attended last November.

    Lucky Textiles is one of the most important textile and denim companies from China. Please share a brief history of your growth.

    Lucky Textiles Group is a professional manufacturing enterprise located in Yixing, China that provides global customers with end-to-end services for designing, developing, and manufacturing high-quality fabrics and garments. With an annual production capacity in the billions of meters, Lucky Textiles Group offers fabrics like denim, knits, and piece-dyed fabrics as well as full-package garment manufacturing. Their production facilities, product range, and worldwide customer base position them as a leader in international textile manufacturing.

    What collections will you be presenting at the Japan show in 2024 and what would be the key focus

    The product we are going to show in the coming 2024 show will be still focusing on sustainability and performance denim and how they can merge with authentic vintage inspirations.

    What are your key markets and how important is Japan for your company? Do you think it’s different from other markets

    Lucky Textiles Group key market are both USA and European Market in the last 15 years. As global political issues and new sourcing strategies, we are looking for expanding our business with customer from different countries, Japanese market is one of the most important market we would like to focus on not only because we have the correct product offering, we also looking for more new direction and inspiration from Japanese customer who believe we can growth together.

    Can you share with us the sustainable initiatives that you have recently worked on to reduce the impact on the environment.

    Fully operational by Solar Energy, More Sustainable Dyestuff and Engineered Process, work closely and forming strategical partnership with most of the sustainable fibre and material supplier.

    Billy Wong, the VP Global Sales and Marketing of Lucky Textiles Group, is a denim enthusiast with a knack for crafting timeless denim pieces. With a background in denim design and a love for sustainable fashion, he is dedicated to creating denim that not only looks good but also tells a sustainable and stylish story.

    For more details , contact him at this email

  • A Talk With Levent Bozgeyik About Iskur Denim Journey

    A Talk With Levent Bozgeyik About Iskur Denim Journey

    ISKUR Group’s journey, since its foundation in 1990, is actually a summary of the history of Turkish industry. Founded in 2015, Iskur Denim has all kinds of cotton yarn production inhouse, and manufactures knitted and woven fabrics including denim . On the 2.5 million square meter-area, it still grows organic cotton and carries out organic agriculture. We are happy to have Iskur Denim at our Denimsandjeans Japan show again for the 2nd edition on March 26-27, 2024 and spoke to  LEVENT BOZGEYİK about what Iskur denim is currently focusing on.

    First of all, we would like to congratulate you and other Turkish companies for a strong bounce back after the earthquake tragedy. It shows the spirit of the people in Turkey

    Thank you very much for your kindness . It was a big damage , Iskur denim opened same day  all factories to the workers and people live in the city to stay as it was very cold weather . The day after Iskur started to build prefabricated houses without waiting , and 2 months after Iskur finished it’s own small prefabricated town for many people as well as food and all other needs for Daily living . That helped Iskur a lot even the people went back to work totally after 2 months . Now Iskur started work full capacity just 2 months after earthquake

    Iskur denim has focused on a number of sustainable projects like the Waterless yarn dyeing system . Can you elaborate on some of them and how it has helped Iskur to contribute better towards sustainability

    Iskur denim has been born as a sustainable and eco mill from the first day by solar energy on the roof and co-generation systems for saving energy and water which helped us to get Carbon Trust company verification . Iskur Group is one of the biggest organic and regenerative cotton yarn producer in Turkey . Iskur Build its own inhouse recyle yarn facility 8 years ago . Iskur denim waste ‘0’ policy and water-less dyeing technology support minus carbon footprint.

    We thank you for joining Denimsandjeans Japan again . How was your experience in the 1st edition of the Denimsandjeans Japan show ? What would be your focus collection and products in this 2nd edition .

    In the first edition in Japan , I have seen many people and met with new customers there . There were big brands, garment makers, laundries, OEM  companies and chain store sourcing offices who visited our stand . I like the speech/ talks of the seminar people and was very happy with coffee service and food service there .
    We are going to present our FW and Spring Summer collections together in order to serve all global customers in Japan show , Our focus will be Natural yarn blends and regenerated fibres such as Cashmere, Linen, Tencel, Recyle cotton , Hemp etc.. , All our dyeing system and materials are sustainable . All our products are ‘0’ carbon footprint products . For the trend wise we focused Y2k fashion, Western Vintage style, super performance elastic fabrics with good kickbacks.Please come and see our new products.

    Do you think the Japanese market is very different from other markets

    I can not say very different; Japan fashion is different but also follow world fashion and digest to it’s own character .Japanese customer are always interested in new ideas and products , Japan market has its own conservative approach.

    Your collection has few products which have Zero Cotton and use a number of eco-friendly fibers . How do you think customers respond to such innovations. .

    Japan market has many life-style brands and a few but big retailers. Regarding our collection sustainable taste we are more concentrated to life style brands . at the same time we can build new projects together with Retailers as we have infrastructure for doing this.

    Levent Has been working in Textile sector for 20 years  and most of this time he has  developed new markets for Sustainable denim products. Driven by the vision to create an overall business case for all partners in the supply chain, he combines sustainability expertise with a business and brand  perspective.He holds a bachelor of science degree in Textile Engineering. He has been proactively working to enhance sustainable cooperation between suppliers and brands.Levent is Co-Founder of KAL company  SSC (Sustanible Supply Chain) where he is working with iskur denim & Kayra Recyle and denim production companies and helps brands to create&trace sustanible denim production .

    He likes to speak about Sustainabilty in denim production . Can be reached on lbozgeyik@kal.com.tr

  • A Talk With Junaid Javed Of SM Group Pakistan

    A Talk With Junaid Javed Of SM Group Pakistan

    SM Group is one of the well known Pakistani textile groups . With a history of over 60 years, the group is well entrenched in global markets and now seeks to explore the Japan market through our Denimsandjeans Japan show in March’24 . We interacted with their Executive Chariman Mr. Junaid Javed . He has an MBA degree from a reputed university in Pakistan and have been leading the group for more than 20 years now. Under his leadership the group has progressed from trading concern to manufacturing facility. SM group has seen immense growth under his leadership and continue to explore new investment avenues. 

    SM group has a long history which goes back over 60 years. Can you elaborate how the group developed and what is the current structure of the group?

    SM group has been in business for more than 60 years now. We started small at retail level, went to wholesale, trading and to manufacturing over these years. We have multiple export trophies in our belt and have been largest flannel exporters from Pakistan in our early days. We ventured into denim fabric production when it was a new avenue for investors in Pakistan and have never looked back ever since. It is a family owned company and has a mix of corporate and traditional hierarchy. The first generation laid the foundation of the group and We as the second generation namely Mr. Asif Merchant and myself Junaid Javed has taken reigns into our hands now and are all geared up to take SMD to next level. 


    You are using some ground breaking technologies like INDICAN and others which contribute to your sustainability targets . Can you elaborate on more of these

    Everyone is looking for sustainable solutions and thus the whole industry is coming up with very interesting solutions. It’s an honest effort by most of the industrialists to meet retail and brand requirement of sustainability, which eventually is adding great value to innovation and up gradation of the overall sustainable efforts. SMD has covered the material side of sustainability and traceability and realised long back that process optimisation is the only way forward if you want real change. Therefore, as an answer to our process optimisation efforts we came up with INDICAN. It’s a sustainable dyeing and finishing route which is third party SGS certified. It is a way to reduce 80% less water in finishing and dyeing, consumes way less dyes and leaves almost less than 1% less residual dye in the dye bath. Apart from IndiCan we do have salt free dyeing also which again has a huge impact in environment. We are continuously striving towards process innovation where chemical, dye and water usage can be minimised. With IndiCan the consumer will have a certification and a swing tag to increase the retail value. 


    What special collection you are bringing to the Denimsandjeans Japan show on March 24 . Do you think that the Japanese market has some very special needs and which of your products can address that

    This is going to be a great combination with Japanese Heritcage fashion and SMD innovation. We are working on few capsules which will have performance , innovation and aesthetics at it’s core however we are keen to keep the heritage and retro theme at its heart. We are playing with some fibers and making sure not to loose the Japanese denim identity while making our fabrics and garments. Our fabrics and garments will have elements of old school Japanese denim at the same time will keep the fabrics and garments trendy. 


    As you mentioned that you use a number of fibers for high performance, sustainability etc. What are your most favourite ones and why

    We have a thing for using and promoting sustainable fibers in our collection. We have been using different fibers through our product lifetime and have used multiple synthetic sustainable and natural fibers. These days we are focusing on NAIA by Eastman corp which to us has a great intrinsic value and addresses sustainable challenges. Also it is affordable fiber which has compostable and biodegradable properties which very few fibers have at the moment. We are going to bring great collection to Japan which will also cover these fibers and will be available for an exhibit. I am sure it’s going to create waves and we are early adopters looking to seek early movers advantage. 


    The markets have been difficult for the last one year . How has SM denim adjusted themselves to face the new challenges and be prepared for the future.

    Indeed the market has been acting odd for last few months. We realised this early on and have worked on our products and compatibility. We have added several light weight fabrics, PFD and PFGD fabrics to our collection so keep the product line trendy and in variety. We are working with brand and garment factories closely to keep the competitiveness in market and this is what have sailed us through. We do have some strategic partnerships in place and you will hear about it in coming days and its going to be really interesting. Also we have increased our presence internationally with global offices and international exhibitions like Denimsandjeans, Kingpins NY, Kingpins Amsterdam, Colombiatex, Bangladesh Denim expo, Intertextile Shanghai and Denim by PV. This is to keep touch points with clients and its working fine at the moment. 

    Mr. Junaid Javed is executive chairman of SM Group and manages its multiple businesses. He has an MBA degree from a reputed university in Pakistan and have been leading the group for more than 20 years now. Under his leadership the group has progressed from trading concern to manufacturing facility. SM group has seen immense growth under his leadership and continue to explore new investment avenues. 

  • Fabrizio Maggi From The LYCRA Company Speaks About Latest Initiatives With Denimsandjeans

    Fabrizio Maggi From The LYCRA Company Speaks About Latest Initiatives With Denimsandjeans

    LYCRA® is one of the most well known fiber brand globally and an important partner for our various Denimsandjeans Shows . Recently the company participated as our associate partner in the 5th edition of Denimsandjeans event in Bangalore. This time our theme was Denim Repurposed and LYCRA® showcased special products at the show. With the theme being ‘Denim Repurposed’ – we had a special focus on the material inputs that go into denim . With LYCRA® being an important supplier to the industry, we spoke Fabrizio Maggi , Commercial Director South Asia & EMEA Distribution @ The LYCRA Company on their latest developments to support the sustainability aspect of the industry .

    1. LYCRA®is one of the most well known brand of fiber producers for global fashion brands. What do you think helps LYCRA® create this distinct identity.

    The LYCRA Company is recognized worldwide for its innovative products, technical expertise, sustainable solutions and marketing support. Our focus is on adding value to our customers’ products by developing unique innovations designed to meet the consumer’s need for comfort and lasting performance. The LYCRA Company innovates and produces fiber and technology solutions for apparel and owns leading consumer and trade brands like LYCRA®, LYCRA® T400®, COOLMAX®, THERMOLITE®.

    1. Denim is one of the key segments for LYCRA®. How do you think denim has evolved post covid and how has LYCRA®adapted to it

    Pandemic followed by cost of living has dramatically changed the consumer behavior and shopping habits. They have become more selective and conscious about their apparel purchase. Shrinking budgets made them to consider the value of the apparel products and they want to invest more in timeless, versatile, and high-quality garments which have longer wear-life. Circular economy approach has put a bold focus on responsible design. Brands and retailers now better understand designing clothes that last longer and are more durable as a key to reducing environmental impacts. The latest launched technologies like LYCRA®lastingFIT and LYCRA® ADAPTIV fiber were developed to address these new trends.


    3. Sustainability is now the core of global fashion. With various governments creating rules for transparency and circularity, how LYCRA® has evolved to keep ahead of these requirements.

    The LYCRA Company has created an abridged version of our 2021 Planet Agenda Update that includes our 2030 Goals and Commitments related to our sustainability efforts. This is organized around Planet Agenda’s three pillars of corporate responsibility, product sustainability, and manufacturing excellence, which together touch every aspect of our business. The goals are based on a 2021 baseline and are targeted at 2030 unless otherwise noted.

    4. You had created a ‘Green Wall’ at Denimsandjeans India show held recently at Bangalore . What concepts were you showing there and why do you think they are they important for Indian brands and retailers.

    Taking in consideration that durability is the new sustainability, we showcased our latest fiber innovation LYCRA® ADAPTIV fiber and LYCRA® Anti-Slip fiber. Those fibers are part of our LYCRA® XTRA LIFE™ offering, as helps garments to last longer, in terms of body adaptivity in the case of LYCRA® ADAPTIV fiber which provides wider fit windows and size inclusivity and long-lasting by adopting LYCRA® Anti-Slip fiber which reduces the risk of seam slippage. In addition these technologies will have a positive environmental and costs impact due to less returns in particular for brands and retailers selling online.

    5. What does the near future of denim industry look to you. Do you think we are looking at big changes in terms of demand, production systems , technologies etc ?

    The denim industry will develop in order to address the increased consumers concerns about reducing their environmental footprint. There will be a significant investment in higher quality garments, designed to last longer because they are made with durable fibers.

    For more information , contact :

    Fabrizio Maggi , Commercial Director South Asia & EMEA Distribution , Fabrizio.Maggi@lycra.com

  • Jomu @ Denimsandjeans Vietnam

    Jomu @ Denimsandjeans Vietnam

    Jomu Textile is a leading producer of denim fabric in Vietnam and they specialize in high-quality denim fabric production. With a production capacity of over 2 million yards per month, they are well-equipped to meet the needs of customers with bulk orders. They are now participating at the Denimsandjeans Vietnam Show on March 1-2 and invite all interested buyers to come and visit their booth at number 8. Don’t miss this opportunity to find out more about their products.

    And we spoke to their Director , Nicolas Koehl who answered questions about his company and product range.

    Jomu is a low profile denim company with a very different model of business. Can you share how it works and how it developed?

    The Jomu business model was actually inspired by making detailed observations of the hypercompetitive Chinese domestic market. We found in Guangzhou especially, the factories would specialize on specific parts of the production process, so for example, you can find factories that only specialize in dyeing denim, or only weaving or finishing. So the idea that you can specialize to the point where you just focus on what you’re good at really made sense to us. We found ourselves with top of the line high quality machines, tons of manufacturing potential, but with limited reach into the traditional brand market where new fabric designs are constantly needed, and sales cycles are more than 6 months long.

    • So we decided that we would focus on providing our production capacity to customers who already knew what they wanted, and would supply the yarns necessary to weave it. We like to call it a “processing” business model.

    With this processing approach, Jomu has been able to differentiate itself from other denim companies and gain recognition among a new generation of denim enthusiasts.

    Covid years must have been very difficult. How did survival happen during these times?

    The Covid-19 pandemic has had a tremendous effect on the global economy, with many businesses struggling to stay afloat. We were no exception, we saw orders for export being cancelled or greatly reduced during this time.

    • Our domestic processing customers became our core focus during this time, and this was the key to success. Times were especially challenging during the Vietnam imposed lockdowns from July’21 until October’21.
    • Given our shipping to domestic customers was blocked anyway, our company decision was to close during the lockdown period and wait for things to return to normal. This was a very difficult time for everyone, but coming out of it we were able to run at over 90%+ capacity almost immediately onwards.

    3) How do you keep innovation moving at Jomu?

    One of our main efforts in the most recent years was to focus on innovation in the energy efficiency space.

    • We can all feel the rising cost pressure in the economy, and the best way to get through times like these is to find ways to reduce the energy cost per meter of fabric. It is important to keep innovating in order to remain competitive.

    It is my strong conviction that investments in this space are a key differentiator and will put us in a strong growth position when things improve again. Even simply looking inside the factory and challenging established ways of doing things can lead to innovative changes, and this should be something that is encouraged in every team!

    4) What key products you focus on so that your unique service to clients is valued more and more. What would be your focus areas during the Denimsandjeans Vietnam show.

    Jomu X Denimsandjeans
    Jomu Textiles

    Right now, we want to promote our unique business model to make other people aware of what we do. A lot of our customers are other denim producers looking for more capacity or just close access to the Vietnam garment market in terms of logistics. Our expertise in the local market makes us a valuable partner for anyone looking to get closer to the Vietnam market.

    5) Why do you believe in Vietnam and why do you think it has a great future in textiles, especially denim.  

    One must always consider the long term trend in a country. Vietnam has a vibrant, young and growing population. They are increasingly receiving better education and training each year, eager to make a name for themselves on the world stage. With such an enthusiastic and capable workforce, Vietnam has all the right ingredients to become the go-to destination for denim production.

    People are noticing, and the view that China was the only place to buy denim fabric is no longer widely held. The domestic market is huge and people love wearing jeans and being stylish here: there will surely be a positive future for everyone involved.

    In summary, Vietnam is well-positioned to become a major player in denim production in the coming years due to its vibrant economy and young population that is becoming more educated every year.

    To check out their collection, register here

    For more information, you can contact Nicolas at nick@kohl.li