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Category: Japanese denim

A Talk With Gaku Tsyuoshi , FDMTL Japan

Founded by Gaku Tsuyoshi, FDMTL is one of the most famous denim labels from Japan and has been known for its peculiar designing and patchworks since 2005.

Gaku Tsuyoshi, an architect by profession and a fashion college drop out by choice had plansÂ to have his own apparel brand from the time when he was working in some unrelated office work.

After studying in fashion college for a few years, he decided to launch his fashion brand and since he finds denim more industrial and easy to implement his ideas, so he started with denim and now expanded to T-shirts and other accessories including home decor, bags and shoes also. Japanese Denim has always been one of the loci of all the denim nerds due to its fabric quality and uniqueness and when Gaku Tsuyoshi launched FDMTL, there were many Japanese brands which were doing really great at that time.

FDMTL came with its unique patchwork and boro denim which became very popular within no time and still relevant due to its contemporary design and Japanese touch. In 2006, the brand started full-scale deployment in Japan and opened CATII TOKYO, the first directly operated store in Meguro-Ku, Tokyo in 2009. In 2012, FDMTL started customization service.

“I realized that there are so many jeans from Japan and all are doing good. I was kind of tired of making those kind of jeans and I realized I like things like patchwork and use new kind of technology to make my products “

According to Gaku Tsuyoshi, 99% of the products of FDMTL are made in Japan and rest comes from China which includes largely T-shirts and other accessories. Talking about the schedule of launching the products, Gaku Tsuyoshi believes that most of the Japanese Brands do not follow season but FDMTL is trying to schedule its launches according to the season.

On being asked on how the response was on his brand from other countries

“I think its really good. I often go to Hong Kong and other Asian countries . I was recently in Malaysia for a pop up store and lot of people knew about FDMTL and I was so happy to see so many people coming “

Denimsandjeans toured Japan recently to bring exclusive updates from the famous Japanese Denim Brands. Here are some exclusive pictures from FDMTL HQ.

December 17, 2018
Bob Marley Themed SS19 Collection By Kapital, Japan

Garments that are unrivalled are in a few and limited versions. Various brands can achieve their unique designs, can go for out of the box collections, can present new innovations and different prints but in reality most clothing stick to a draft thatâ€™s been followed many, many times before. Breaking the matrix, KAPITAL has truly achieved the originality of unconventional clothing and acessories. Based in Japanese denim-hotbed of Okayama Prefecture, the brand manufactures some of the praiseworthy collection which fuses traditional construction and dyeing techniques with a blaze of avant-garde design.

Kapital began as a company in the 1980s. Toshikiyo Hirata, founder,Â discovered his love for American denim while teaching Karate in the United States. Headquartered in Kojima, Okayama Prefecture, and led by Kiro and Toshiyoko Hirata, Kapital is now one of the most respected labels in the Japanese market , with around fifteen bricks-and-mortar stores across Japan and a collection of selected overseas retailers.

Indigo denim is a fundamental element of Kapitalâ€™s collections. Kapital follows a complete different path where its product seem like an irony on the style that the garment is actually based on â€“ asymmetrical designs, with pockets often on strange places and buttons making an irregular appearances. However, these strange silhouettes of Kapitalâ€™s clothing makes the product desirable. The SS19 collection by Kapital celebrates the Jamaican Culture and Bob Marley.It introduces the streetwear imprint of Japanese collection centering around Bob Marley. The Jamaican national color yellow , green and red is translated by the color-blocking design on the apparel. Accompanying by the patchwork, the theme can be visible by the prints that recall the Bob Marley album â€œTalkinâ€™ Bluesâ€™â€.Some highlights include boro-stitching, washed finishes, and distressed cuts.

Letâ€™s check out the cool Bob Marley collection by KAPITAL:

Picture Courtesy : www.kapital.jp

December 13, 2018
Cool Denim Jackets And More From FDMTL Japan

FDMTL is a Japanese brand specializing in creating collections using fabric combos, patches and washes in unique ways. Checking out their collection is always an Eyeful experience. We bring the latest looks from their collection below . The quilted coats and patched coats and the Sashiko down jackets are our favorites !

INDIGO QUILT COAT

PATCHWORK COVERALL RINSE

CROPPED TAPERED CS47 | ZANTER SASHIKO DOWN JACKET

HAORI HALF COAT

CROPPED BORO DENIM RINSE

SLIM FIT CS50

November 10, 2018
Denimation -Bitchu Bingo Japanese Denim Project

Denim + Animation = Denimation , this new term has been coined recently to promote the Denim Business in Japan at The Bitchu Bingo Region which is also known as a locus of premium Japanese denim production. To promote this region as a center of Denim Production on a global level , the local government as well as the some business houses came together and launched -Â Bitchu Bingo Japan Denim ProjectÂ under which an animated movie has been released titled – Bichu Bingo Japan Denim Story . This short movie uniquely presents the denim in the form of animation which is indeed a visual treat .The movie tells the history of denim in the Bitchu Bingo region and of the world-renowned Japanese denim.

This movie has series of beautiful frames and each frame has been beautifully crafted with the rich flavor of Japanese Denim . As you go further , this movie tells the story of the denimsâ€™ creation until it used around the world. In a frame which shows women with Bingo kasuri (Bitchu-jima), that design turns to rain and the story develops. Following the path of a blue bird, you see the creation of denim in the stages of spinning, dyeing, and weaving. One piece of denim is spun, then it goes internationalâ€”the single piece of denim created in the Bitchu Bingo region is finally brought to the consumers through a runway.

Reportedly ten companies provided denim for the animation and five companies involved as a think tank to give ideas and suggestions. It took five months to complete the production of this animation . The illustrations of each scene were line drawn, then the denim material that was scanned into a computer was strenuousÂ added one sheet at a time. In particular, the denim weaving scene took over twenty-four hours of work for each second of the scene. The entire movie has been developed with a great dedication and minute detailing has been ensured before releasing this. All the characters have been well placed and the story which they wanted to convey , It seems they successfully convey it .

ABOUT BITCHU BINGO JAPAN DENIM PROJECT
The Bitchu Bingo region, the production center for Japanese denim, has thrived since long ago through its indigo-dyeing production and thick fabric production. Because of this, the denim culture has strong roots in the region. Local government and companies worked together in this project so that people in Japan and abroad can learn more about the history, story, regional characteristics, finely tuned technology, and minute craftsmanship of Bitchu Bingo denim.

March 18, 2018
Japanese Brand KAPITAL Releases SS 2018 Collection

KAPITAL, the famous Japanese clothing label, has recently unveiled its latest Japanese heritage-inspired Spring Summer 2018 collection. Continuing with their signature Japanese traditional wears including Kimono and flayered loose-fit pants with multi layered constructions, the brand put together a new range of unique styling. Comprising of jackets, shirts, pants,and more the collection utilizes a plethora of indigo-dyed denimsÂ while referencing traditional Japanese silhouettes. Indigo knits, extreme multi layered distressing ,Â paint splatters, indigo bathrobe are some of the new additions by the brand.

The collection is up for sale at kapital.jp , little expensive but worth it.

January 6, 2018
New Dry Denim Technology By VisVim From Japan

Since its foundation in 2000 by designer Hiroki Nakamura, Visvim from Japan – has been involved in the creation of footwear and clothing products through their on unique processes and methods which resulted in products likeÂ Â Gore-Tex outerwear, natural indigo-dyed kimonos, Native American-inspired sneakersÂ being launched. They have been also working to bring out their original version of creating “DRY DENIM” and seems they have been able to do it !Â A special treatment is applied under this technology which removes theÂ oil found in the cotton fiber used in denim and will give an absolute dry feel.

They were always interested in Vintage denims and had conducted countless trial and errors in attempt to reproduce the unique feeling of vintage denim with the damaged denim that they manufacture, but one characteristic that we could not imitate and duplicate was the distinct “dry feeling” that vintage denim possesses. With this new process they developed, it seems they are able to get a very DRY LOOK.

Â

PROCESS

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To reproduce the texture and unevenness of the fabric they finally came up with a method that consisted of applying a special treatment to remove the oil found in the fibers of the denim.Shrinkage from this process is extremely severe and difficult to control; it is a complex technique that normally should not be used for natural fibers.The stitches are also shrunk, so the width of the denim becomes finer and narrow. To stabilize the shrinkage and to find consistency, many test were conducted and after repeated tests they finally came up with their own original “DRY DENIMÂ®”, which featured tightly woven fabric and a dry and deep texture. They were finally successful in incorporating the appeal found in vintage items, not just in terms of surface appearance but texture as well.The textures, colors, and finishing processes are different with each pair of this unique denim.Â The original copper buttons specifically produced for this denim are individually painted by hand.

Below are some images toÂ show as to how it looks before and after the process .The image on the left shows the denim before the processing is applied, and the image on the right shows the denim after the processing is applied. The difference may not be very apparent but the brand claims that it has come out with some very unique denims which give it a definitive edge in creating Vintage Denims !

Pic Courtesy : Official Website of VISVIM

October 17, 2017
SS17 Collection By FDMTLS

Japanese label FDMTL (Fundamental Agreement Luxury) recently unveiled its lookbook for their new Spring / Summer 2017 collection. The brand continues to offer selection of patchwork pieces come to fore as the Japanese-bred imprint is apt to purvey. In FDMTLâ€™s Spring/Summer 2017 collection, they continue their never ending experimental journey into denim while also including other pieces to show versatility and well-roundedness.Â The indigo items in the collection play with beautifully executed patchwork done with a vintage feel.Â The collection also underscores a workmanâ€™s casual aesthetic which we find to be simply mouth watering.

February 3, 2017
KUON 2017 Autumn/Winter Collection

KUON works with Japanese vintage fabrics including BORO and upcycle them to contemporary wears. They also work with surviving mills all over Japan to carry on Japanese textile heritages.In addition to their signature Boro series, they have further explored Japanese textile heritages in their 4th collection. Working with surviving mills in Northern Japan, they created original textiles of sashiko-ori, machine woven sashiko, as well asÂ sakkora-ori,Â contemporary sakiori weaving technique supported by Sakkora Japan in Iwate Prefecture. More Information about Kuon can be found here. We share below some of our favorites from their Fall 207 Collection

January 14, 2017
PRPS Japan – Spring 2016 Denim Key Looks

Donwan Harrell, theÂ founder of PRPS , is the first American designer to bring Japanese denim jeans to the United States. Established in 2002, Donwan was instrumental inÂ creating the rise of the Japanese luxury denim jeans business in America.

He doesnâ€™t simply just make washed & selvedge jeans, Donwan constantly researches, selects premium denim and uses revolutionary washes that has changed the face of men’s fashion & celebrity fashion as we know it. PRPS has collections that are shaping the menâ€™s fashion industry. Every characteristic of every garment produced by PRPS is representative of Donwanâ€™s penchant for meticulousness. No detail, no matter how minute, goes overlooked; creating the best jeans to date.

His Denim can be considered as a mix of being aÂ â€œDistressed, de-constructed, patched, repaired, painted on, sewn and glued together jeans â€œ.

The prices of his jeans was never cheap and starts from around $350 and go upto $1000 a piece !
His latest collection of jeans displays intricate washing techniques , huge amount of patchwork in many pieces, overdyed jeans, exceptionally washed twills with denim effect. Also included are intricately washed denim shirts at $350 euphemistically named â€“ â€œPeasant Shirts!â€

March 13, 2016
Sakiori Denim From NakedandFamous
Sakiori is a type of fabric construction in which regular yarns for the warp and thinly cut strips of fabrics are used for the weft. Sakiori became popular during the Japanese Edo period, when laws that forbid luxury were issued.Â Under these laws, common people were not allowed to use or make new fabrics.Â The people began recycling old fabrics and turning them into something new.Â The home manufacture and use of sakiori clothing and hearth covers in rural areas of Japan disappeared anywhere from 50-100 years ago, although a few individuals and some historical preservation societies still weave this cloth today.

NakedandFamous â€“the brand from Canada, tries to bring a SakioriÂ denim back with some alterations. The Canadian brand is always at the forefront of bringing some different denim products to the customers. The fabricÂ is made using a specially developed yarn that gives the appearance of Sakiori when woven into fabric.Â The yarn is created byÂ twisted colored yarns along with white big slub yarns, resulting in a random horizontal stripe yarn.Â 3 different shades of blue were used to create the twisted yarns.Â When weaving, the yarns are used in rotation to produce the look of Sakiori fabric.

Sakiori Denim compared to 150 year old Edo period sakiori cloth. Exterior (Top) Interior (Bottom)

Special yarns developed to create Sakiori denim.

The Sakiori Denim is available now exclusively at Barneys New York .Naked & Famous Denim’s Sakiori jeans are crafted of dark blue cotton-blend Japanese raw denim with some details below :
- Five-pocket style, belt loops, slightly tapered legs, logo-stamped blue leather patch at back waistband, logo-embossed silvertone rivets and button
- 96% cotton, 4% polyethylene
- Made in Canada
November 12, 2015
Boro: Japanese Folk Fabric

What is Boro? Traditionally, itâ€™s mending ragged textiles with 19^th century, indigo died, hand-loomed, natural fibers such as cotton or hemp. Boro is a Japanese word meaning â€œtattered ragsâ€ and itâ€™s the term frequently used to describe lovingly patched and repaired cotton bedding and clothing, used much longer than the normal expected life cycle. Like early North American patchwork quilts, boro textiles revealed much about the Japanese family’s living standards and the nature of the economy of their time.Once clothing was made, it would be maintained throughout the ownerâ€™s lifetime, or perhaps even longer. Cotton was scarce in Japan, but hemp was abundant. Hemp would be homespun and woven into beautiful patterns. Cotton could be woven through the hemp fabrics to make it warmer. The diversity of patches on any given piece is a veritable encyclopedia of hand loomed cotton indigo from old Japan. In most cases, the beautiful arrangement of patches and mending stitches is borne of necessity and happenstance, and was not planned by the maker.

Boro was born of forgotten values of â€˜mottainaiâ€™ or â€˜too good to wasteâ€™. An idea dangerously lacking in the modern consumer lifestyle.When creating your Boro think, messy is best and rough is lovely. Boro is the clothing that was worn by peasants, merchants or artisans in Japan from Edo up to early Showa (17th â€“ early 19th century). In feudal times, the majority were peasant farmers. Not everyone could afford the lavish silk kimono and vivid obi worn by the aristocracy. Clothes were crafted from cheaper materials, but were no less beautiful than those worn by the upper classes.
Boro art has been influencing the modern denim distressing looks. Only the Japanese could make something that literally translates to â€œtattered ragsâ€ so upscale and luxurious.It easy to recognize something that has been mended in this style; usually in indigo, multiple patches and fabrics of the same color or hue are woven together, creating a garment that looks old and patched together, but beautifully handcrafted at the same time.

We think its in place to have some cool indigo looks and different styles from this unique craft for our denim aficionado readers !

Handmade Japanese Indigo Boro Scarf Denim Sashiko Japan

Boro Scarf | Vintage Japanese Aizome Indigo Cotton With Sashiko

Found on etsy.com

Intricate Boro Repairing

Found on stylesight.com

Hishizashi Monpe Pants

The beauty of boro fabric is the highly sophisticated sewing and weaving techniques used by the women who made it. For peasant families, each garment would last long enough to be passed down through generations. Daily use would require frequent repair.The pattern woven into the fabric of these trousers is known as hishizashi. Women would invent their own designs and compete with friends.

An interesting item is the DONJA below .It is a very large, and extremely heavy sleeping coat. Today, we might think this inappropriate, but parents and children would sleep naked together inside it. Wrapped in layer upon layer of boro scraps and wadding, shared body heat would protect them from the dangerously cold winter.

Donja

Source furugistarjapan.wordpress.com

The BODOKO (below) is translated as â€˜life-clothâ€™. It was actually a bed sheet. However, it was also used when giving birth. Women would hang from ropes fastened to the ceiling and kneel on the bodoko. Layers of rags worn by ancestors would be the first thing the baby would touch.

Bodoko

Some more cool Boros.

Found on womanwithwingsblog.blogspot.com

Japanese Indigo Boro (below) is a rare boro and was composed in 1900 but made of earlier fragments of Shibori, Katazome and Kasuri.

Found on estherfitzgerald.com

There is no end to the Boro designs that we like . Here are some more boro visuals .

August 4, 2015
Interview With Katsu Manabe | Momotaro Japan

We had the pleasure to talk to Mr Katsu Manabe of the Momotaro / JapanÂ Â Blue family who make waves in the denim industry worldwide with their original and authentic denims.Â He speaks to Denimsandjeans.com in length about how he got involved in his fatherâ€™s denim business, and about the theÂ philosophy and concepts in the collections from Momotaro / Japan Blue and what is real good denim for him.

1. Pl do tell us about your denim background. How you came to be associated with this industry?

I’m Katsu Manabe,son of the owner of Japan Blue Group. But I was not interested in denim until I found what our company had done. It was
1995-1997, I was just a usual high-school student who was interested in fashion, games sports etc.. At that time, vintage denim replica trend started, then many stores made their own denim. I had Levi’s 501XX replica, then I bought some piece of store original replica denim( Japan made). A year after, I found exact same denim in father’s office and he told me that its made by him.. I was surprised..I found several fabrics and samples which I wanted to buy and it was huge trend in the market at that time.. After all , I started work his company. I had experience
for overseas production manager and taking care of the store, opened the
website, after all ,started to sell material and garment in overseas
market. It was around 15years back .

2.How do you think an American product came to be perfected in Japan and actually becoming a symbol of best quality denim worldwideÂ with raw denim being at the centre of this attention.

After 2nd war, U.S military brought us a lot of clothing, and its so
interest and cool for Japanese at that time. I think we love not only
the denim, also American culture behind. Its so diffrent culture than
Japan.
Past 100years Levi’s build denim as a daily wear and work wear in the
market. Most of people still think denim=Levi’s=U.S.Â And this is
history and its never change.
But professional people, designers, manufactures,craftsmans, they
undersatnd what the quality is. We love American culture and denim.
But we’ve been trying to make the best quality denim in this 50years.
I bring high quality japanese raw denim to Europe and US market since 2007 and try to build up raw denim market in 6years. Past 3 years there are
many raw denim brands thatÂ appearedÂ in the market.
I’m so happy that people have interest again inÂ raw material which was the trendÂ 1995 in Japan. I know its good way to enjoy the denim and people
will think about quality of denim material after you wear a pair of
jeans. The best quality denim, that customer will decide.
We are just trying to produce the best material.

3.Pl tell us how Momotaro grew from its origins and how it came to become an iconic symbol for denim lovers worldwide.

Momotaro started is 2005 as store original denim (Rampuya Original denim). We just tried to make a pair of the best Japan made denim for Japanese people. Our president wanted to put some name on this label which can easy to understand its from Okayma, Japan. And we put the Momotaro name as a label. For Japanese people, Momotaro is one of famous fairy tales (like a “Peter Pan”). And this source of story came from Okayama. So
people know Momotaro=Okayama. And we try to connect
Momotaro=Okayama=denim=No.1
In this 6years,I started selling overseas market and trying to visit the
store as much as possible. Bring all the samples, telling history and
culture,spirit,japanese denim..etc. We don’t think we are the best,we just try to be the best. Our friends and denim lovers who share our spirit,they bring us into the market.

4.What is the basic concept behind Momotaro collections? Do you goÂ for seasonal collections or timeless ones which are not affected by seasons.

Concept:
Momotaro Jeans uses only the best natural raw materials and dyes the cotton yarn with pure indigo to weave the Original denim using its vintage looms by hand.
At Momotaro Jeans, the artisans have a saying:Â Made by hand without
compromise g. All you have to do is try on a pair of Momotaro Jeans and
you will see for yourself from the exquisite details and rich indigo
blue that Momotaro jeans are of superior quality.
Mainly we sell timless collection. But we also sell seasonal collection
mostly in Japanese market. I try to build Euro collection which not
selling to Japan.Â Normally we don’t make big discount sale.

5.You also have the Japan Blue brand. How is it different from Momotaro?

Japan Blue started from Euro,U.S and Asia then Japan. = its focus
overseas market and focus on material. Not only denim but high quality
material.
Momotaro started for Japanese market then Asia-US-Euro. = focus the best quality vintage denim.

6.There is a lot of misunderstanding on the kind of looms used by denim pioneersÂ in Japan for making denim. Do you think theseÂ loomsÂ were all imported from US mills ? What role did these looms play in bringing up the Japanese denim industry?

50years ago Belgium looms maker export them machine to the world, and
some of our craftman remeber the machine came from Belgium also
technician came to teach how to work.And we also use vintage deadstock”TOYODA” looms which TOYOTA car company started them business in 1890.

7.You are also a unique brand because you weave your own denim. Do you think it makes a huge difference to have your denim woven by yourselves?

Our sister company Collect Textile has been trying to produce high quality material and denim for 22years.
I think raw denim needs good quality material. If we want to try to build the best quality denim in the world, that’s the best way to weave your own material. Ofcourse you need a lot of knowledge ,experience and practice for the same..

8.What role do you think does cotton play in denim quality . I believe you use mainly Zimbabwe cotton.Â There must beÂ a strong reasonÂ behind the same.

Yes, we mainly used Zimbabwe cotton. Its one of the finest cottons and
long staple, its can create great color with Indigo. Also it gets softer
after uses, makes good fade and fit your body.

9.How do you think Japanese denim fashion has changed in last decade . I am sure it must be reflecting in your collections too!

Its changed like this –
Hard washing denim->Natural fade denim.
Hard raw denim -> Rinsed raw denim.
Vintage replica -> original denim
Of course we follow this change but not always. We want to create new
vintage generation with new denim history for next 100years by Japanese
denim.

10.Many thanks for taking out time to speak to us. Any advice for denim lovers ?

Enjoy with your raw denim, your life will appear on your denim. Its your
history of denim.

March 13, 2014