It features an exclusive range of dresses, jumpsuits, bodysuits and tops with unique designs that prioritize comfort. The preeminent pieces include the Pull-on Flare Jeans, Indigo Modern Knit Midi Dresses, and Fit for Success Jumpsuit, alongside the four-way stretch denim offering with sizes ranging from XS to 5XL making them perfect for everyone. What’s more, the collection uses recycled cotton which makes it environment-friendly as well!
No Zippers or Buttons? Yess! You Heard It Right
Soft Sculpt is very well designed and holds and hugs all the right places providing a super comfy fit. Using soft knit fabric that offers just the right amount of stretch and structure to tackle those curves with ease, with no buttons or zippers needed. With three styles to choose from- Skinny, Flare & Palazzo silhouettes – the choice is there for most of the ladies.
With this innovative fabrication made to fit your curves perfectly, you’ll get the most flattering look ever! Check out their latest drops all in one place and find pieces that are so curve fitting ! . Experience the smoothness, stretch, and hold of soft sculpt fabric and enjoy a perfect fit like never before!
Want to explore more trending collections? Attend Denimsandjeans exhibitions in Vietnam (March 1-2) and India (April 26-27) and witness the collections yourself. Find out more here
The Denimsandjeans Vietnam is set to be held on March 1-2 , 2023. SM Denim Mills from Pakistan will be showcasing their latest collection at the show for the first time. We recently talked with Mr. Junaid Javed, Executive Chairman along with his General Manager Marketing Mr Abbas Rizvi, SM Denim Mills on their company, products, focus and why they feel Vietnam market is important for the industry.
SM denim has a history of over 40 years. Can you share the growth story with us.
SM Group is a distinguished business corporation since its inception in 1976 started as a flannel fabric producer and became one of the biggest Flannel exporter in the early 2000. Expanding our product portfolio the company established a state of the art denim mill with core competency in Denim Fabric manufacturing and its trade, capitalising on innovation, integrity and ingenuity. Denim for us, knows no boundaries and we are determined to export globally by supplying brands and denim apparel manufacturers as per their demand. We offer the best quality denim fabrics coupled with expedited services and competitive terms in order to meet our clients’ requirements. Using our state of the art high tech machineries, plants and human resource and a cumulative volume capacity of over 27 million meters per annum, we offer a diverse variety of fabric production ranging from 2.75oz to 18oz and above in different blends and constructions with high end sustainable products that surpass the market requirements.
What are the latest innovations SM denim is working on.
Our Dedicated R&D department is continuously adding new and innovative denims fabric to the archive with major emphasis on sustainability and compostable denim fabric warped with performance like hyper stretch, Bi Stretch, cool max, dual comfort, super soft touch, antibacterial, storm wear etc. We are proud to be one of the denim mills doing less water and salt free dyeing and reusing finishing chemicals through advance recovery plants.
Vietnam is a specialised market. What are your products which you will be focusing on in the Denimsandjeans Vietnam show.
Aligning with the demands of circular fashion we are focussing on traceability incorporating recycled cotton, Recycled polyester, organic cotton, Hemp, Bamboo, kapok and other sustainable blends % to our fabrics and making it eco friendly coupled with our sustainable Indikon and enigma dyeing process.
Is SM denim preparing for upcoming European laws related to sustainability and traceability of apparel products ?
We are up to date with all required certification/compliance as per the European law below are list of some for your reference. ZDHC gateway Cleanchain Higgs index Oekotex 100 BSCI GOTS GRS RCS OCS STEP (in process) Supplier to Zero. In addition to this we run 100% biological treatment plant from Joseph egli and processing towards zero discharge of water by UF plant in the year 2023-24
What are your expectations from the Vietnam market and why do you think it is important?
Vietnam is strategically a very important Market for both EU and US clients with continuous increase in its exports, Vietnam is anticipating to make $45 billion in exports in 2022 from $40.4 billion in 2021 which increase opportunities for Pakistan and other neighboring countries to expand their business portfolio in Vietnam.
Haelixa is a multi-award winning spinoff of ETH ZURICH founded in 2016. The two founders Michela Puddu and Gediminas Mikutis worked during their PhD at the ETH Zurich on the development of DNA markers for product traceability, the technology that they have then further advanced and commercialized setting up Haelixa. With a sophisticated technology as a base, the Haelixa traceability solution is easy to use and can be applied to the raw material (or intermediate product) to address challenges related to proof of product origin, authenticity and sustainability claims.
Having grown from strength to strength, the company now has a wide global reach helping out brands and companies to physically trace input materials. Haelixa has particularly made its mark in the Denim Industry by helping trace , among other things, the cotton fiber used – a subject of great concern to the large brands .
Soorty Denim from Pakistan is one large denim conglomerate using their technology and providing the physical tracing of recycled cotton fibers that they use in their fabrics to their large base of customers globally. We spoke to Mr. Mansoor Bilal – VP Marketing, Research & Innovation and Holly Berger , Marketing Director , Haelixa AG about their collaboration .
Briefly summarize the partnership between Haelixa and Soorty.
Haelixa and Soorty began their partnership in 2019, over a need to have a reliable means of tracing the denim Soorty is recycling. Haelixa provides a liquid solution containing specific DNA for Soorty to spray on post-consumer waste. Once the post-consumer waste is mechanically recycled into fibers and further processed into a finished garment, samples are sent to Haelixa labs to be tested for the DNA. Once verified, Soorty can responsibly stand by their recycling claim.
What advantages do marking and tracing recycled denim have for customers? Why is this important?
HB : Denim manufacturers and producers are being pushed to increase the percentage of recycled products. As denim brands are setting more aggressive sustainability goals, this means the demand for recycled fibers increases. In order to substantiate recycling claims, Haelixa offers forensic proof as to whether marked recycled fibers are used.
MB : With an increase in demand for circularity in textiles, many brands are focusing on the transparency and traceability of the fibers and their sourcing background. The major advantage for the customers is having confidence and total reliability in the product because it’s been sourced from a credible and authentic supplier who understands circularity and its dynamics.
This also provides them with the satisfaction of being conscious consumers since traceability offers supply chain transparency that makes you feel like a partner in environmental support and that you are giving back to nature
What has been the overall response of marking recycled denim?
HB : The response has been positive. Traceability is not only a trend but an important standard that is being adopted by the textile industry. Haelixa offers credible testing (through PCR) to verify DNA in the fibers marked. Soorty offers brands the option of labelling their products with a tag, “Marked and Traced by Haelixa.†All fact-based information on sustainability efforts are important for the industry and consumers.
MB : Many brands are realizing the effects of ongoing climate changes and the consequences of growing landfills. Over the past few years, many of our buyers have been asking us to add PCW (recycled cotton) into our fabrics. But since the last 2 to 3 years, the demand has been getting higher and higher with every passing day. Now most of the brands we are working for demand a mandatory percentage of PCW blend in their collections.
How does the process work and what are the steps involved in execution
HB: Haelixa ships the liquid formulation to Soorty, where it is applied in a standard production step by spraying. Denim garments are then produced as usual. What we have also done with one of Soorty’s clients, is to prepare a unique DNA to identify their collection. Haelixa then verifies marked garments and issue test certificates.
MB : After sorting and shredding our PCW denim fibers, we apply DNA markers to the fibers, which are then mixed with virgin cotton in the desired percentage requested by the buyers to make the yarn.
What is the most common reason brands want to mark recycled denim?
HB: Marking fibers is important to maintain the credibility of the product in the supply chain. In a world of greenwashing and misinformation, brands are looking for fact-based evidence to back the claims about the fibers used in their textiles.
What does the consumer gain from purchasing marked and traced recycled denim? How has the DNA solution evolved since working with recycled denim?
HB: Haelixa marking fibers initially was used mostly as a tool for supply chain players to verify their claims of traced textiles. Since the product was first launched, Haelixa now offers customer-facing communication. This includes the optional hang tag, stating “Marked and Traced by Haelixa†or a QR code printed within the finished garment which directs the consumer to a website sharing supply chain data.
With respect to this partnership, what is possible for the future? Are you planning on scaling the recycled cotton traceability? What will you mark besides recycled?
HB : The range of textiles that Haelixa can reliably trace is vast, beyond denim. The traceability solutions portfolio includes organic cotton, recycled cotton, hemp, nettle, and synthetic fibers. With Soorty, the next scale will be in recycled and organic cotton.
MB : Soorty has always kept a sharp focus on its customers’ expectations while ensuring a sustainable impact on our Earth. We do it through research, innovation, and continuous improvement of infrastructure. Recently, we have doubled our recycling capabilities, keeping in mind the flow of demand for recycled denim. And we are thinking of coming up with something interesting like traceable organic cotton under SOCI, Soorty’s Organic Cotton Initiative.
Why is marking organic cotton important? Which advantage will it give you?
HB : The feedback has been very strong after collaborations with brands in marking organic cotton. It adds credibility as traceability is the only way to ensure that a product is indeed made of the specific lot of organic cotton that is stated on the transaction certificate or other documentation. The fact that Haelixa markers are approved as chemical inputs by GOTS is a major advantage here and allows us to ensure that safety and GOTS requirements are maintained.
MB : It seems like the new business approach will be based on the transparency of the full supply chain and not limited to one part.
What is the risk of not using a traceability solution?
HB: There are two major risks of not having a traceable solution in place : 1. Future: With regulations and communication mediums changing faster than the seasons, businesses need to keep up with the trends. Without a solution in place, their efforts to create consistent products that meet standards will fall short. 2. Transparency: To keep stakeholders informed about the fibers used, traceability is necessary to state the facts about the production processes in the supply chain.
MB : It is unavoidable in today’s world to provide a tangible with no traceability. To be in the league of dependable supply chains, a significant number of businesses would have to rely on an authentic and consistent traceability partner sooner or later.
Mr. Mansoor Bilal - VP Marketing, Research & Innovation says :
Going forward, companies will be judged on their overall footprint of traceability and reliability. As a first step, we have onboarded Haelixa for the beginning of process control to encourage track and trace. And we see great potential to further push the initiative in our cotton fields under the flagship project of SOCI to create a circular benchmark.
Mr. Abdelkader Amouche – Global Sales Director , Haelixa says :
Greater transparency is a must. Business owners now know that their companies will be asked about their sustainability goals and efforts. Our work in cases, like Soorty, demonstrates that transparency is possible.
For more information , please contact Holly Berger , Marketing Director , Haelixa AG @ h.berger@haelixa.com
With covid putting in a long gap for all exhibitions, Denimsandjeans restarted its exhibition jounery with the show in Bangalore, India in June 2022 . It was a great comeback with a wonderful response from exhibitors and visitors both. But the biggest challenge was holding the 1st edition of Denimsandjeans Japan. This show, which was originally planned for March 2020 , kept on getting postponed with covid and we finally were able to hold the same last month. And now we come to our next stop – VIETNAM on March 1-2 at HCM . Also our India show will happen on April 26-27 at Bangalore. The Denimsandjeans Vietnam was last held in 2019 and the pandemic ensured that we could not restart it till 2023 . So in a way its really exciting to be back in Vietnam after such a long gap ! We , and all our stakeholders , are quite excited about the show hoping to see great participation in the show. So , it would be great to mark the dates for the show in your calendar and be to this wonderful country which is doing much better than many others currently.
We also take opportunity to share some insights into our Denimsandjeans Japan show . With around 40 exhibitors from different countries and 10 local exhibitors participating in the show this year , the 2 day event attracted around 800 visitors from over 250 companies of Japan. Major brands, retailers, buying house , traders and manufacturers participated from across Japan . Some of the important ones include Caitac, Itochu Corporation , Uniqlo, Muji , Edwin , Yagi , Lachman Exporters, Kurabo , Vinatge Denim , SCI , Monura Trading , KOWA , Crystal Yi Da, Toyota Tususho , TDesign , Baroque, Synergy Co Ltd, Noura Trading , Sumitex International , Takenouchi Industrial Textile Corp, Marubeni Corporation, Retroactive Inc., Mark Styler, Mac- house, Valta Design , Rich Diamonds, Denham , Righton , Joix Corporation , CODE7 , etc visited the show.
Display Walls
There were a series of very innovative denim walls in the show. The famous brands Samurai and D’Artisan’s collection were displayed alongwith a unique concept by YEN jeans. There was a wall display by Dr. Denim as well as Officina+69 with a very fascinating collection and denim artwork respectively. Jeanologia also displayed some latest products and technology on denim wall during the show.
Trend Area
The theme of the trend area RAW & RIGHT rightfully displayed 5 categories as ENVIRONMENTALLY RIGHT – Less Water/ Chemicals , Designed Innovation , Good Material ; JAPANESE STYLE ; RECYCLED ; SELVEDGES with special products from all the exhibitors falling in them.
Do not miss to join
Join the Denimsandjeans Vietnam Show on March 1-2, 2023 at Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam and our India show on April 26-27 at Bangalore.
During our Denimsandjeans Japan event on 1-2nd Nov, our team visited the famous Kapital – one of the most famous boutique denim brands from Japan . A small family-run company named Kapital is producing highly valued clothing that redefines what it means to wear denim in the Japanese countryside. Kapital has constantly emphasized the exclusive use of hand processes since its establishment in 1984, developing and producing all procedures manually , including thread dying, material fabrication, stitching, washes, and embellishment. Their unusual designs, expert craftsmanship, and meticulous manual finishing are well known across the world.
Store Design
The way that the leftover denim is displayed on the wall is unique but appealing. The doors and racks are constructed from discarded, unwanted pieces of wood that have been arranged to look as though they have always been there. Their vibrant, fun, and stylish inventory mesmerized us and just spruced up our everyday shopping for clothes.
Reconstructed denim served as inspiration for the store’s design. A traditional Japanese residence decorated for a tea ceremony served as the location of one of the Kapital stores in Ebisu. In particular we visited the KAPITAL LEGS – the store dedicated to everything in denim. Each of their stores has a distinctive personality. Some require you to take off your shoes before you enter. Others are crammed together like an American vintage shop with strange artifacts from the Kapital archive heaped high and Ebisu store was one of them. It’s utterly original, unlike anything else, but curiously familiar.
The brand faced a huge transformation when Kiro, Toshikiyo’s son, chose to leave Kojima to pursue his education in America in 1996. Kapital underwent a significant transition and was influenced by the Americana movement in 1996. The EAST MEETS WEST fusion concept, a blending of Japanese and Western designs, is introduced by this artistic Japanese brand called Kapital.
Natural dyes and traditional Japanese Sashiko, Boro stitching and repairs are hallmarks of this exquisite brand. KAPITAL’s areas of expertise are processing and stitching , and very few businesses worldwide are able to do both tasks. The stitching technique -Sashiko – has been used for more than 400 years. Tradition dictates that lines and designs are created with a running stitch and white cotton thread. Typically, indigo blue traditional cloth would be used for this.
KAPITAL began by making jeans, but they now produce a wide range of products, primarily apparel made of denim. With a few exceptions, all KAPITAL products are produced at the company’s factories, including shoes, and accessories. Whether you’re looking for everyday clothing or festival attire for the summer, you can find it there. And the prices are not sky high when you consider the Japanese yen today !
We highly recommend visiting Kapital store when in Tokyo . Kapital Legs : 2 Chome-23-12 Ebisuminami · +81 3-5773-8305
Kassim is one of the most well known Pakistan denim company and respected globally for its innovative developments. The company brought out denims in 1991 and since then it has been a great growth journey for the group – going from places to places . We spoke to the Marketing Director Mr Imtiaz Ishaq regarding their philosophy , journey , developments and more.
Kassim is one of the most innovative denim companies. What drives the company?
Our philosophy is to make denim using a simple age old concept of treating others as you wish to be treated. Keeping things minimal, our ethical principles are interwoven into our denim. We aim
to care for all the artisans involved in making our denims & to produce the most luxurious and best fitting jeans, while protecting the earth and loving its people & try to get close to green world every day.
With the changing regulations in different countries, bringing sustainable products to the market becomes a priority for brands. How are you helping the brands for the same.?
We believe sustainability should not be limited to some products, infact it’s our foremost responsibility to make every product sustainable. And, to do so, we need to adopt sustainability as a habit, as a mission, as a part of every step which we take towards introducing the new innovations & this is the only way forward
Firstly we have equipped our facility with all the machines, chemical fibers and other raw material for sustainable production for the brands & secondly we made sure flexibility of our production lines and supply chain to cater the needs of different brands.
Denim is increasingly becoming a performance fabric. What do you think about the same thing?
Denim is becoming more dynamic as consumer needs change and Millennials, Gen Z Swing Fashion Industry As millennial became a bigger consumer force, demand for Gen Z clothing is inevitable ….accordingly we have introduced our “Ethleisure Seriesâ€, simply a multifunction denim that can use as formal wear & at the same time give you athletic freedom & weather friendly properties. What are the 3 key developments by Kassim in the current year . Do you believe these are seasonal or long term?
We’re always believe in long term developments but at the same time following the market requirement and trends.
We are striving to cover most of our production capacity with other than Virgin cotton that will include recycle or organic, Zero Cotton Denim, Biodegradable denim & so on.
As we know the world is quickly changing and challenging the denim industry to quickly adapt to it, we have recently join hands with Invista and developed series of articles by using Lycra-Adaptive so Denim consumer can have unparalleled wearing experience with best fits that will provide shaping and compression, a second skin effect.
We believe that Every Fade Has A Story. By partnering with Cleankore and Archroma, Kassim now has a new vintage looking black garment that is not only fully sustainable but also effective in saving water, chemicals, energy and production time. According to Archroma’s in-house impact calculator One Way, this new solution eliminates the need for potassium permanganate spray, thus avoiding the yellow cast that the chemicals can give on black denims. Products can also be laser-finished, and thus achieve low EIM scores, using Jeanologia’s rating system
Pakistan has been a very important player in the global denim market. Do you foresee its influence increasing in the coming year?
Yes, absolutely! Pakistani industries have been playing a vital role in global denim market & the reason for our success is capacity and capability. We are equipped with all necessary tools like latest machines and raw material and have enough capacity to cater the requirement of market. Although, market is currently unstable due to political tensions & recession in world but we are hoping that once the world will be back on track again, Pakistani industries will grow further & show their importance on the world map.
Your growth plans for 2023 ?
Agility of the supply chain remains one of the key driving force in our continuous expansion so in order to become fully captive in yarn, we have established a state of the art spinning unit which will ensure the supply of premium and value added yarns in least possible time & we also have further expansion plans of our spinning unit for 2023.
Further as a part of our energy & emission management strategy, we have installed state of the art solar energy system at our facility to eliminate fuel dependency. It is currently generating 3.2 megawatt of green energy & our aim is to increase it further in future until our whole manufacturing facility switches on solar power which will help us to significantly reduce the carbon footprint.
Another project of water recycling is in line and expected to complete by 2023 and after its completion we will able to make 50% of our waste water reusable.
Artistic Milliners is one of the most well known and respected global denim conglomerate having operations that spread multiple countries and huge investments in sustainability projects. Omer Ahmed is the CEO of Artistic Milliners (AM)- the fully vertically integrated denim organization with headquarters in Karachi, Pakistan. He is also the co-founder of Star Fades International, a fully operational denim laundry and design center located in Los Angeles, California. As Artistic Milliners participates in our Denimsandjeans Japan Show, we interacted with him to understand about the latest directions that AM is following in their quest to be more even more productive, efficient and sustainable.
Artistic Milliners is one of the fastest growing global denim groups with a big international presence. Can you share about recent growth ventures?
I think it would be fair to say that we are in the next chapter of our evolution as a company, improving what we do best while broadening our horizons. We’ve expanded our portfolio beyond denim with Artmill, adding premium wovens into the mix. Our garment capacity is expanding with our newest LEED Platinum certified unit and Circular Park is a green energy supported fiber recycling plant at the vanguard of circular tech, using our own textile waste as well as post-consumer textile waste. We’re also further expanding our global footprint with SFI Mexico, an organic extension of our smart supply chain offering in North America.
2) Sustainability has become the core of your activities and we see a number of initiatives in this regard specially related to water and energy. Can you enumerate some of them?
That’s very well put because sustainability, and more broadly speaking equity, is at the core of who we are. In fact our values are authenticity, inclusivity, force for good and climate positivity. And clean energy is a big part of that vision, and given recent events in Pakistan, it’s an increasingly urgent mission.
On a manufacturing innovation front we have our recent wash advances – Clear Fade, and Clear Vintage– consumes 75% less water compared to conventional methods also use ecologically friendly chemicals. Our latest dyeing products Purecolor and Bioverse dyes, incorporate natural dyes into our offerings. All colors dyed by the Natural Dyes are certified by GOTS and meet ZDHC MRSL requirements. At our mills we are taking a holistic approach to sustainability and a 360-degree approach to Circularity, be it our investment in Circular Park or our partnership with regenerative recycling partners. Thanks to meaningful water recycling quantities our fresh water consumption has come down by 60%.
Besides that our resource saving innovations like Crystal Clear 3.0 and Icebreaker replaces conventional rope dyeing technique with more modern, far cleaner eco approaches like finishing fabrics with ozone This delivers value to our customers with better color casts and more laser friendly fabrics. This is what helped us achieve Cradle to Cradle Gold certification and Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
Another vital piece of our green mission is our ability to produce our own clean energy. Our 100 MW wind farms+ 2.7 MW solar farms don’t just help power our operations, they’re helping our national power grid move away from fossil fuels, which is an increasingly vital mission given the growing climate crisis that Pakistan is at the forefront of. We’re also expanding solar with a new 8.5 MW project in collaboration with Reon energy. We’ve also got over $370 million invested in hydroelectricity for this precise reason.
3) What do you think of the Japanese market and what major collections would you like to present there at Denimsandjeans Japan.
Japan is a mecca for denim, particularly when it comes to authentic denim. While Japan’s denim market seems to be growing at a steady clip every year, what I find most impressive is the dedication to the craft of denim and respect for artisanship that runs through the industry. It is largely unexplored by our market however so we are hoping to change it. What is encouraging to see is this growing passion for responsible manufacturing that takes traditional and highly developed techniques in dyeing, weaving and washing and marry them with a more ecologically aware ethos. It’s a model we’ve become very familiar with as its one that has guided our own journey over the past decade. Our collections for the Tokyo show will focus on Spring Summer 24, staying authentic and never ever sacrificing comfort or style. You’ll just have to see for yourself on the show floor!
4) With SFI being a very successful model for Manufacturing 4.0, do you think that we can see more of such manufacturing plants from AM ?
Not just think but we’ve already expanded in the same vein. For us, California was the right place to lay the cornerstone of our US manufacturing operations and it was also symbolic, given its significance in the story of denim. SFI served as a major leap in Artistic Milliners’ evolution as a truly global denim company as it adds multiple dimensions to our operating model. SFI also serves as a hub for co-creation and collaboration on every aspect from fiber to garment, and SFI Mexico is the natural next chapter and gives us greater depth and manufacturing muscle, compounding economies of scale and sustainability as fast as our US partners like.
The other jewel in our circular manufacturing crown, Circular Park is finally online, outputting up to half a million kg of recycled fiber from pre and post-consumer sources using clean energy. Circular Park is set to become the hub of fiber recycling efforts company wide. We’ve also expanded our garments capacity by 600,000 garments, bringing our newest energy efficient facility online.
5) Would you like to share with us the growth plans for the near future.
Our investment map as outlined above ties in precisely with our 10-year plan: Enhancing capacity in an intelligent way which allows us to scale up production optimally while limiting our environmental and resource impact.  But growing ourselves as the clean energy powered conglomerate of the future which means being adaptable: The bamboo that bends is stronger than the oak that resists, and as I said, for us ecology and equity are two sides of the same coin for us. So it’s an important part of our sustainability strategy to help our employees and therefore the company grow, particularly in regard to women, who make up 50% of our top management. No company can claim to be sustainable  and not be right to its employees. This just doesn’t fit in our vision. Our FairTrade Certified factories now cover 5,000 mostly women workers. We’re still the first in Pakistan’s textile sector to be certified, and to date have disbursed a  million USD through the programme. Similarly, we’re very proud partners of the BSR HERessentials programme which we’re very passionate about, which encourages peer to peer learning on health, finances ,resilience, and tools for building harmonious relationships and handling stress. We are also the first and only denim company in Pakistan to run Gap Inc.’s Women Empowerment program called P.A.C.E. (Personal Advancement and Career Enhancement). Our  growth means their growth, today and in the future.
Nexia & De Franceschi is an Italian company, leader in the production of innovative machineries and systems for industrial and textile laundries. From the heritage of the De Franceschi brand, born in 1871, Nexia has developed experience and know-how in the finishing process within the textile sector, with particular focus on the denim industry. Technologically advanced products, that are aligned to Industry 4.0 standards, have been created to drastically reduce the consumption of water, chemicals and energy. We spoke to their team about their latest work and developments as they participate in Denimsandjeans Japan show.
Nexia has developed as an important company for sustainable laundry. Can you share your brief history?
NEXIA SRL is a leader in Italy in the production of washing and dyeing machines for industrial laundries, in the finishing textile process with particular focus on the DENIM industry. Our ALL-TOGETHER system for instance, a combination of option on the same machine for a fluid and dynamic uninterrupted washing cycle, guaranteeing remarkable performance with the highest quality results.
Nexia in 2016 also acquired the DE FRANCESCHI historical brand of washing machines, for the linen industry.The company has developed exclusive patented technologies, 100% made in Italy, that can significantly reduce environmental impact, processing times and energy consumption.
The objectives have been incredibly successful: water consumption reduced by up to 85%, use of chemicals reduced by up to 87% and energy consumption reduced by up to 40%.
Nexia is always on the frontline of fashion and technological research and the machineries are certified in total compliance with environmental policies of the Green Label by RINA, an external international certification control agency.
How are you trying to align your company orientation with the Sustainable Development Goals of the UN ? All our products are aligned to Industry 4.0 standards, we constantly invest 15% of our profit in Research and development every year in new technologies. In January 2020 Nexia won the award as best manufacturer company in our area and received the prize from the mayor of the city of Rosà . In October 2021, another important award the “PID 2021†a special Italian prize with the mention for the sustainability: “Green Laundry and dyeing for Textileâ€.
Last but not the least, in OCTOBER 2022 we will collect another important prize, by the president of the VENETO REGION and the PRESIDENT OF THE ROTARY CLUB, the CARNAROLI regional award, with the assignment of the honorable mention “ENERGY AND ENVIRONMENTAL SUSTAINABILITY”.
The goals we reached, reaffirm the dedication of our historical brands through a responsible production, with ever higher performing washer-extractors and applications from a target ZERO perspective.
Ozone technology has been very useful in providing environmentally friendly washing to the industry . How have you ensured advancements in this technology?
NEXIA being a sustainable company, has the awareness that it does not only mean respect for the environment and for the resources, but also respect for the health of workers and consumers.
For this reason, our OZONE technology is CE Certified, and we are carrying out an important project with the National Research Institute ( CNR), aim to proof the application of this natural gas in the textile industry.
What do you think of the Japanese denim market? Why do you think that your technology could be very useful in the market?
High-tech, tradition and the obligatory pinch of nationalism, are the three most important characteristics to consider about sustainability in textiles, in Japan.
NEXIA constantly update issues related to the environment and savings, although what has been achieved at the technological level is very ground-breaking like our NEXSTONE patented stoneless washing system and our DOUBLE NEBULIZER NDROP system ( unique in the world).
Our machines have been also conceived with an advanced software able to manage and check all the recipes of the treatments, enhancing the bath ratio, the washing cycles and most important, all the savings.
Our aim is to promote our integration among Japanese companies in machinery and resources, able to help improving their precious denim market.
Any future plans you want to share with us on your new technological developments .
In addition to the projects, we are already carrying out, NEXIA be present at the next most important international show for the textile industry, ITMA Milan 2023, with a new product and with great news. You just have to follow us !
For more information on Nexia products, contact them at   info@nexiaitaly.com    office email Â
Any denim enthusiast who loves Levi’s knows that finding the perfect pair is a rite of passage. Nevertheless, there are times when you simply don’t have the time to try on dozens of pieces of jeans. So, if you’re still on the lookout for the perfect vintage outfit for fall, stop your hunt now. Who Decides War by Murder Bravado and Tela D’Amore debuted their Spring/Summer 2023 collection with Levi’s for their New York Fashion Week showcase just two weeks ago, and you can purchase the release straight on NTWRK.
Who Decides War satisfies its DIY hunger by repurposing Levi’s denim items using the brand’s distinctive patchwork and deconstruction techniques. The line features their original 501® ORIGINALS, which Murder Bravado upcycled and individually created for his apparel company, Who Decides War.
Who Decides War clearly has a fondness for denim, as evidenced by their patchwork denim Air Force 1 sneakers and NFT with RTFKT pants. And who better than denim king Levi’s to carry on this love affair? In a news release, Lilly® CMO Kathleen Riley Grant describes the partnership as a “natural fit,” hinting that the two were destined to collaborate.
The pair’s collection consists of two trucker jackets from Levi’s and three pairs of 501 pants, totaling five one-of-a-kind items. In one jacket, severe distressing leaves the back threads hanging by a thread. On the other hand, a pair of jeans include embroidered artwork of stained glass window images resembling those seen in the WDW cathedral, which is a recurring theme for the company as seen in previous collections like SS22 and AW20.
The glitz-free denim at WDW is beloved by celebrities and fashion enthusiasts like Saweetie, Lil Baby, Billie Eilish, and Luka Sabbat (and the list continues on). It has effectively become the streetwear brand’s identifier. The end result is a massive assortment of timeless yet modern AF denim outfits with a high-fashion edge that almost looks DIY.
We believe that Who Decides War’s collaboration with Levi’s is a perfect fit since the collaboration will allow the organization to engage in environmental, economic, and social justice projects. All proceeds will go toward the Deep South Center for Environmental Justice.
Katsuzo Sawagami established the Saab Group, a firm that makes some great jeans , in the Shonan region of Kanagawa Prefecture in 1987 which is famous as one of Japan’s leading beach areas. The group has the sewing factory Saltie and the washing factory SAAB located about 1 hour from Tokyo. It manufacture handcrafted goods with an emphasis on quality that are seen as being “Made in Japan.” The company has been manufacturing denim jeans for over 35 years and has many leading brands as their clients globally whom they serve from Japan and also their overseas ventures and partnerships.
We spoke with Mr. Yamada on the origins and priorities of Saab during the Japan exhibit as they participate in our first edition on Nov 1-2, 2022.
What enables Saab to work with so many denim brands even with the high cost of Japanese products?
First of all we are thank for there is such market and industrial people who have good eyes and same values. Japan fabric is the one of best to express authentic vintage worn in. All the Japanese mills are very unique and have creativity. We have a lot of benefit of that and contributed a lot for position of Japan denim.
We as a manufacture always challenging new technic and progressive development to meet buyers expectations.
Currently almost 70% of our products are export to overseas. We feel we are one of the representative supplier of Made in Japan denim and must to make consumer happy with valuable products.
What kind of customers do you work mainly with and what special can new customers expect from Saab?
Mainly working with brand with own Global supply chain.
New customer can do partner ship to do R&D throughout running production including branding.
What are the major products that you would want to show at the Denimsandjeans Japan show ?
New Development Made in Japan, Upcycling products, , Introduction our Cambodian factory and their capability.
Products:
Concept for IMG6295
Destruction and patched
A sort of garments have destructed and patched as you can see below :
Concept for IMG6297
Use 3 garments to combined to 1 sample and make it flare. Removed waistband to be low-rise.
Since 1981, Tonello has led the world in garment finishing technology, helping to make Italy a success story around the globe. It works side by side with its customers, establishing a connection between the stylists and the businesses working on, dying, and completing the clothing thanks to its cutting-edge machinery and one-of-a-kind service. Tonello is regarded as the industry standard for garment finishing, having sold more than 9000 machines globally.
With Tonello joining the first Denimsandjeans Show in Japan, we spoke to Alice Tonello about the history and focus of Tonello during the Japan show.
Tonello Is One of the Oldest Denim Washing Machine Makers in Europe. Can You Share Some Important Milestones in Your Progress?
The company’s official founding year was 1981, which means we recently celebrated our first 40 years in business. However, the company’s founder, Osvaldo Tonello, as well as my uncle, had started laying the groundwork and working under his own name as early as 1975. After that it was a succession of research, experimentation and launching innovations.
Among the milestones, certainly in 1985, with the G1 300, the definitive consecration of the open drum, front opening machine, with front inclination: a revolutionary technology also from the point of view of water saving, compared to previous belly machines. And all this at a time in history when the word “sustainability” was not yet known. It was more about efficiency. Later, in the late 1980s/early 1990s, the first robots for automated spraying and scratching of garments. They marked an incredible revolution for the industry at that time. Then, the first laser in the market, in 1995, and other iconic and successful technologies still to follow, such as Batik and ozone. 1997 represents another important date for us, namely the founding of our research and development center. Even then, in fact, we understood the importance of offering our customers a service that was much more than just selling the machine. Even today, this area is among the most strategic and important for the company.
To make a long story short, and come to the present day, in 2017 we launched the Creative Area as part of the R&D center. A gathering place between designers, brands, manufacturers. A space in which to discuss, inform, learn, update and compare with those who live the world of textiles and fashion every day. But the news does not stop there. More things are on the way that will definitely mark our calendars.
Your First Laser Machine Was Made in 1995. That Was Really Too Early! Did the Industry Understand the Importance of the Same At That Point of Time.
You are right, when we launched the laser technology, the market was definitely not ready for such a revolution. In fact, it is undisputed today the operational, creative and safety advantage that the laser can bring to any laundry. However, in the 1990s, the technology was still in its early days, as were the effects it produced: far too flat and fake for a market that was daily in search of the most authentic vintage looks. In fact, it was the brands then that rejected the laser, precisely because of its inability to create truly interesting effects, continuing to prefer traditional techniques such as manual scraping.
Luckily, over the years, the technology has evolved, and today it is an established practice in many garment finishing processes. Indeed, it allows the creation of automated vintage effects, as well as the creation of prints, graphics, and cuts, in total safety. It also ensures high reproducibility and productivity.
In addition, it creates a new work figure, that of the laser designer, much less “physical” and more focused on the creative side.
Japan is a Different Kind of Market. What Will be Your Focus During Your Participation in Denimsandjeans Show There on Nov 1&2
Japan is certainly a unique market, but already some customers and brands are working with our technologies. In any case, we will present our latest technological innovations to the Japanese market to achieve unique aesthetics and effects in a totally responsible manner.
Examples are Wake, the first 100% natural dyeing system since it uses only vegetable waste; O-Zone, the static cabinet that uses ozone to achieve special effects such as localized discolorations, degrade and sun-bleached effects; and OBleach, the patented process that enables authentic bleach effects without using hazardous chemicals but, again, with only ozone.
It will also be the perfect opportunity to present our brand new Evolution 3 range.
The Key Focus of All Denim Manufacturers Today is To Somehow Reduce Environmental Impact. What Do You Think Has Been Your Contribution Towards This Goal?
As mentioned earlier, for us, reduction in the consumption of resources such as water, energy, emissions and in the use of chemicals has always been the mantra guiding our activity. And this is from the early days of the company, when sustainability was not as in vogue as it is now and some of our customers were not even interested in saving water. It is a daily challenge for us, and we never stop trying to improve. One example is that of our most iconic products, washing and dyeing machines, which after years of refinement we have revamped and launched as the big news of 2022. It is called Evolution 3 and is the new generation of Tonello washing and dyeing machines.
In the Evolution 3, the tried and tested machine construction allows for maximum optimization of water use during each type of process, as well as huge energy savings guaranteed by several improvements. All this guarantees reductions in energy consumption of up to 20 percent compared to previous models, a reduction in overall operating costs and to have greater competitiveness in an increasingly unpredictable market.
Established in 1949 in Karachi, AGI Denim is one of Pakistan’s leading premium denim manufacturers. As a market leader, keeping abreast of the changing times, they produce quality denim in an innovative culture and are the first company to be B Corp certified in Pakistan ! . With the company joining the first edition of Denimsandjeans Show in Japan, we spoke to Ali Tekin – R&D Director – to get his insights into their latest focus and products.
1. Congratulations on becoming the first B-Corp certified company in Pakistan. What does it really mean to you and your customers
Receiving the B Corp certification was a moment of pride for us. We could not be more honoured that we are now part of this coveted coalition of companies working hard to bring about good change for the people and the planet.
It shows our customers that we are a credible organisation that has put purpose over profit, working to become increasingly transparent and honest with our stakeholders. Our vision matches other B Corps working to make the business a force for good through intelligent, impactful decisions.
2. What is your new Leed Certified Park project and how is it unique in its orientation?
Our LEED Certified Industrial Park comes with a state-of-the-art spinning and denim mill. This unit is the only one of its kind, equipped with the best-in-class tri-fuel Wartsila engines to help combat the current energy challenges, and 25% of the energy needs are fulfilled through solar power. This powerhouse of a facility gives a whole new meaning to Industry 4.0, producing 60,000 kilograms of yarn per day, which can make more than 88,000 pairs of jeans.
We’ve automated the process from the blow room to carding in the spinning mill. Among the automated solutions is Bobbin and Cone transport system (BTS/CTS), which transports bobbins and cones without material damage and contamination.
Making denim production more sustainable, we have also introduced an Industrial Recycled Waste System that takes spinning waste and turns it into feedstock for new yarn.
3 . Giving back to the community has been a strong aspect for AGI . How are you currently focusing in this arena?
AGI Denim always greatly focuses on community development, and we constantly find ways to give back to the community. In alignment with the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals, we’ve adopted two schools from The Citizen Foundation near our factories to provide quality education to children.
AGI Denim made substantial charitable donations in 2021. Our volunteers spent 500 hours in 2021 to raise community awareness on following SOPs during Covid 19. To keep the community healthy and safe, we planted 2000 mangroves that will help in carbon sequestration.
4. Japan being a very quality conscious market, what are the key products that you want to focus on during the Denimsandjeans Japan showhappening on November 1-2
The market is looking for denim with a more authentic aesthetic. We are inspired by the golden era of denim, the 60s and 70s, but we’re also trying to cover current consumer expectations. The best example of this is our Authentic Futures concept.
We are focusing on different kinds of sustainable fibers such as hemp, recycled cotton, Renewcell, and Ciclo and are also focusing on reducing water and chemical consumption. We have process routes such as Refresh / Double zero in our sustainable line to create concepts like Redefine that cater to these concerns.
During the pandemic, we understand that customer expectations have changed in the last two years. Consumers now need comfort and shaping technology simultaneously. Our State of Function concept considers these demands and delivers a worthy champion.
Because of the economic situation and how the world has been changing rapidly since the pandemic, all of our markets are now focused on efficiently created products. Because of that, we plan to launch a new concept, Heroes, which will consider market needs.
We all want clothes that last longer than they did before. Fast fashion is a thing of the past. A true embodiment of this is our Big Weft concept. It offers a clean destroy area, long-lasting performance and 3 Dimensional twills to the denim.
5. For SS24 , what are key product directions that you are looking at .Â
Authenticity is one important direction we’ll keep consistent. Authentic denim, inspired from mid-century to the 1970s, explores all the imperfections and characteristics inspired by the past.
Denim is becoming more dynamic as consumer needs change. It needs to be able to perform, and we’re proud to add Memory Denim as a worthy contender. It offers an innovative function for high-stretch jeans. Now, compression performance can also be comfortable. The yarn technology uses two levels of designed-modulus, translating to a jean that is not too tight but gives lift and holds in the areas you need.
Circularity and transparency fall within the same bracket and need to be addressed side by side. One of our core sustainable projects started in 2021 is Refresh 2.0. In the life cycle of a garment, 68% of water consumption comes from cotton agriculture; while we can’t control how much cotton we need, we can deeply analyse each step of production. As we developed Refresh denim, we ensured that it was created using 100% recycled water and that no fresh water was used during production. We do incorporate the use of sustainable fibers like hemp and Post Consumer Waste. These are recyclable organic alternatives that help us stay kind to the environment while putting out collections pushing circularity boundaries. A key example of this is our Circular 100 concept. It is equally comfortable to wear and great for the Earth.
For more details on AGI denim collections , contact Ali Tekin at ali.tekin@agidenim.comÂ
