Denimandjeans | Global Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide

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  • AGOA–Denim Exports 2011

    imageThe African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) was signed into law on in May 2000 as Title 1 of The Trade and Development Act of 2000. The Act offers tangible incentives for African countries to continue their efforts to open their economies and build free markets.

    AGOA provides duty-free and quota-free treatment into US  for eligible apparel articles made in qualifying sub-Saharan African countries through 2015. Qualifying articles include:

    • apparel made of U.S. yarns and fabrics; apparel made of sub-Saharan African (regional) yarns and fabrics until 2015, subject to a cap;
    • apparel made in a designated lesser-developed country of third-country yarns and fabrics until 2012, subject to a cap;
    • apparel made of yarns and fabrics not produced in commercial quantities in the United States;
    • textile or textile articles originating entirely in one or more lesser-developed beneficiary sub-Saharan African countries;
    • certain cashmere and merino wool sweaters; and eligible handloomed, handmade, or folklore articles, and ethnic printed fabrics.

    Under a Special Rule for lesser-developed beneficiary countries, those countries with a per capita GNP under $1,500 in 1998,  enjoy an additional preference in the form of duty-free/quota-free access for apparel made from fabric originating anywhere in the world. The Special Rule is in effect until September 30, 2012 and is subject to a cap.

    During the 2011 review process, President Obama determined that all the countries currently eligible for trade preferences and other benefits under the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) would remain eligible and that no new countries would be added as AGOA beneficiaries.

    President Obama also signed a presidential proclamation reinstating Côte d’Ivoire, Guinea and Niger as eligible for AGOA benefits. Each of these countries was previously ineligible, but during a separate review process, the president determined that they had met the act’s eligibility criteria.

    The top five beneficiary countries were Nigeria, Angola, South Africa, Republic of Congo and Chad. Other leading AGOA beneficiaries included Gabon, Lesotho, Kenya, Mauritius and Swaziland.

    Denim Apparel Exports– What is the Status ?

    How has AGOA region countries been doing when it comes to denim apparel exports ? Lets have a look at the data of the last 10 years of exports from AGOA region to US.

    denim apparel exports to us from africa

    When we look at the data , we find that the exports of denim apparel from AGOA to US actually peaked in 2005 when quota regime was just being dismantled. After that , the apparel exports have been more or less flat. In 2010 and 2011 , the exports have actually dipped substantially – reducing the importance of AGOA as a region for export of denim products. In 2011 alone – there has been a fall of over 15% in exports from this region to US. Almost similar fall was there in 2010 over 2009 .. When we look at specific countries , we find the scenario not too rosy for some countries:

    • Madagascar : 84% reduction in quantities exported in 2011 over the same period in 2010
    • Mauritius : 34% reduction in 2011

    However, some countries from AGOA like  still remain interesting for denim production.

    List of countries that fall in AGOA region

    Angola,Benin,Botswana,Burkina Faso,Burundi,Cameroon, Cape Verde, Chad, Comoros,Congo (DROC),Congo (ROC), Djibouti , Ethiopia,Gabon, Gambia ,Ghana ,Guinea ,Guinea-Bissau,Kenya ,Lesotho,Liberia ,Madagascar ,Malawi,Mali,
    Mauritius,Mozambique,Namibia,Niger ,Nigeria ,Rwanda ,Sao Tome & Prin ,Senegal,Seychelles , Sierra Leone, South Africa, Swaziland,Tanzania ,Togo ,Uganda and Zambia

    Sponsored Link:

  • Floral Print Denim Jeans -2012

    Color denims have been the strongest trend seen in the Spring/Summer 2012 season. Another trend complementing the color denims is the Floral Prints Denim Jeans for the Women which is creating its own space alongside the color denims.  Usually complementing with super stretches and light weight denims, the floral prints can be seen in the collection of many of the top denim brands. Lets have a look at some of the styles :

    Top Shop : 60% Cotton,36% Polyester,4% Elastane Floral Denim

    Current Elliot Floral Jeans

    image

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    The floral print denims have been around for some time and this season they are complementing the color denims. Such trends are never in huge volumes as not many  people(ladies here) can carry them off comfortably. Hopefully many will do this year…….

    Sponsored Link:
    Black Denim Control

  • Naked And Famous: Two More Interesting Jeans For S/S ’12

    Naked and Famous – the denim brand from Canada  brings  out some cool denim products – mainly raw. We had mentioned some great looking silk denim from them a short while ago.  Here are a couple of more interesting ones .

    Red Weft Selvedge Hemp Denim

    : The weft is colored red and the selvedge denim gives a great red hue on fading – almost giving a violet tinge..The colored wefts have been in the market for some time, but the color combination and contrast on this jeans looks great.

    colored weft selvedge denim

    Naked and Famous Red Selvedge Denim

    Naked and Famous Red Selvedge Denim1

    Hemp Denim

    Another one , though not very new , is the hemp denim and the brown color of hemp gives  a great character to the denim .  With about 30% natural beige weft hemp and green colored hemp selvedge,

    Selvedge Hemp Denim From Naked And Famous

    hemp denim

    hemp denim 1
    Sponsored Link:

    image

  • Denim Colors: The Next Big Fashion Trend? – Part 2

    This is the second part of guest article by Harry Mercer. The first one can be seen here..

    color denim As mentioned in the first part, producing colors on denim machinery, especially Indigo dyeing equipment has usually resulted in failure to achieve denim colors that are without variation. Sulfur dyeing on Indigo machinery typically results in 10 or more different shades per dye lot, which is true of sulfur bottoming, sulfur topping and sulfur blacks. Other colors are even more sensitive to chemical and machine conditions.

    The options for overcoming these problems and experiencing success in the market are:
    1) To invest in yarn dyeing machinery with an additional set of drying cylinders and a steamer which permits precise dyeing control for all cotton dyes or
    2) Establish a research effort internally in which the actual conditions of the Indigo machine are duplicated in the laboratory so that dyeing formulations and methods can accurately predict results on the yarn during production.

    The options for producing denim colors as far as dyes are concerned are:

    Sulfur dyes: These are low–cost and can be applied on Indigo machinery, fabric dyeing machinery, jiggers, pad-batch and garment dyeing machinery with properly designed methods. Sulfurs are highly versatile in application methods including space dyeing, printing, spray dyeing etc. Sulfurs have an appearance that is more natural than reactives or directs, having a softer appearance and allowing versatile wash down effects in laundering.

    Vat dyes: These are are more costly, but they result in bright, highly colorfast shades. There are a few vat dyes that can be mixed with Indigo for casting, however pure vat colors are best applied on denim with specially-designed rope ranges, like the Spectrum, with an additional set of drying cylinders, steamer and small pad boxes for dye-pad, dry, chem-pad, steam methods.

    Direct dyes: These are currently being applied in garment dyeing of jeans in light colors for the higher fashion market. Direct dyes can also be used for tinting denim fabrics by adding to finishing formulas.

    Reactives: These are very expensive to use. They are often used in garment dyeing, because they do not require an understanding of dye chemistry. There have been attempts to apply on indigo machinery, but control of dyeing is nearly impossible because of the large dye boxes on most indigo equipment, much of the dye being hydrolyzed before it can penetrate the cotton. Again, as with vat dyes, reactives should be applied in a small box, then dried, chem-padded and steamed. The only practical alternative for most denim companies is to apply reactives in sizing with special procedures.

    Affinity Factors: Key to controlling sulfur dyeing

    Sulfurs are a type of vat dye like Indigo, both of which present control problems on Indigo machinery. Vat dyes like sulfurs are known as “substantive dyes” which means that they are absorbed by cotton at a faster rate than water. How much faster a substantive dye is absorbed by water is known as the “Affinity Factor”.

    The affinity factor changes depending on the chemical nature of the sulfur dye, the concentration of each dye and the temperature of dyeing. For example, a sulfur black applied in continuous dyeing at a temperature of 90C and a concentration of 180 g/L will have an affinity factor of 2, which is very low. This means that the dye is absorbed twice as fast as water, so in order to maintain a concentration of 180 g/L in the box for a gravity feed, the concentration in the feeding tank should be about 360 g/L. If you were to use 30 g/L for a sulfur bottom at 90 C, the affinity factor would be perhaps 20. This means that at 90C, the dye is absorbed about 20 times faster than water, which makes dyeing control impossible and is why sulfur bottoms are usually inconsistent and light. Sulfur bottoms are a form of sulfur color and in order to establish dyeing control of any color, the affinity factor must be reduced by using lower temperatures. It is well-known that a 10C increase in temperature results in a doubling of reaction rates, so the solution is to dye at the lowest temperature possible. Commonly-used reducing agents like sodium sulphide and dextrose require temperatures around 90 C, therefore these should be replaced by reducers that allow dyeing at no more than 60C for any sulfur color other than black.

    There is also a widespread problem with the quality of sulfur dyes in the market. Liquid sulfur dyes often have a pH of 14, which results in variation even with blacks as well as poor washfastness, poor rubbing- fastness and large amounts of dye waste during wash cycles. Sulfur dyeing is best at pH 11. Also for continuous dyeing, the reduction potential is critical for consistency and color-fastness. The higher the reduction potential of the dye and of the dye application, the better the results. Sulfur liquids with the highest reduction potential, around -750 mV offer the best continuous dyeing control, while dyeing at very low millivolts (-585) as with sodium sulphide result in very poor quality dyeings.

    A note by Harry Mercer:
    I have been involved in producing successful denim colors for the fashion markets for over 20 years. Until recently, activity in this area has been limited because of technical difficulties in applying colors on denim equipment, however interest in denim colors has become explosive recently. I have collected many of the denim colors available internationally and can refer garment producers to the leading fabric suppliers. I also have evaluated the dye and chemical suppliers with the best products and technical service for yarn, fabric and garment dyeing that I will be happy to refer interested parties to.

     

    This is a guest post by Harry Mercer. Mr. Mercer has 30 years experience in the denim business including 3 prominent U.S. denim companies.He is an expert colorist for measurement and color matching as well as textile testing and is considered to be a leading authority  for denim dyeing, finishing and fashion denim development.

    Sponsored Link:
    Color Denim Collection Spring/ Summer 2013

  • G- Star Opens Largest Store In HK With A Vertical Catwalk!

    G-Star RAW flagship Store Opening on 21 February 2012 in Leighton Road in Hong Kong.
    On 21st Feb     G-Star RAW officially opened its global flagship store in Hong Kong in the iconic Times Square area in Causeway Bay on Hong Kong Island. G-Star, known for its innovative and cutting edge style in the world of denim, hosted an eclectic night of performance, art, music and fashion . The most awe inspiring was the Vertical Catwalk from the top of the building by the models/stuntmen.

    The second Hong Kong store is G-Star’s largest store in the world, accounting for 7,319 square feet of denim innovation. G-Star has expanded rapidly over the last few years, opening stores in the world’s biggest metropolitan capitals from Tokyo to New York to Sydney to Los Angeles. In December 2011 G-Star celebrated the opening of its 300th store at Rodeo Drive, Los Angeles. Currently G-Star has over 6,000 points of sales in 70 countries.
    G-Star RAW flagship Store Opening on 21 February 2012 in Leighton Road in Hong Kong. Photo by Victor Fraile / illume Visuals for G-Star.

    For the Hong Kong store G-Star presented an opening ceremony highlighting G-Star’s core philosophy around unexpected combinations. The official opening ceremony commenced with stunt men and women running down the façade of the building also featured a traditional Chinese lion dance, a champagne crusher (handled by American Grammy nominee Skylar Grey and Chinese singer and actor Aaron Kwok) and a denim curtain revealing a tableaux vivant. In store the guests experienced an acoustic performance of the American singer, songwriter and record producer Skylar Grey and G-Star’s Pop-up show, transforming a collection presentation into real live interaction.
    G-Star RAW flagship Store Opening on 21 February 2012 in Leighton Road in Hong Kong.

    At the Hong Kong store opening G-Star also presented the travelling gallery Raw Art Series. For Raw Art Series denim is taken to another level in terms of craftsmanship by re-contextualizing denim as collectable art objects. RAW Art Series will be exhibited in the Hong Kong store for four weeks, starting February 21st 2012.

    Here is a video from the show

    G-Star Largest Store Opening : HK

  • Color Denim Splash By Uniqlo–Spring/Summer 2012

    Uniqlo Jeans - Color Denim

    It seems that most of the  denim brands  have decided to paint the world with rainbow colors. With almost every brand worth the name coming with colors this season, Uniqlo from Japan was not to be left behind.UNIQLO announces a new line of Color Skinny Fit Ankle Jeans for spring/summer 2012 . Available in eight of this season’s trendiest colors, the jeans are ankle fit .

    SpriUniqlo Jeans - Color Denimng/summer 2012 is all about color, with pastel colors dominating the runways of fashion shows around the world. Starting with the Color Parka, UNIQLO has rolled out a range of new lines offering women all of ages colorful new options for their wardrobes this season. The range is available in 8 colors. The eight colors included in this new line were selected after a meticulous testing process to ensure they complement a wide range of hair colors and skin tones. Similar to the color schemes used in cosmetics, the line features natural hues that can match any look and style.

    Uniqlo Jeans - Color Denim
    The skinny fit design and just-above-ankle length beautifully accentuate the line of the leg and offer a slimmer look. The length of the UNIQLO Color Skinny Fit Ankle Jeans is slightly shorter than conventional jeans, a design feature that makes it easier for women to create a balanced, color-coordinated look that flatters rather than overpowers.
    This spring, UNIQLO plans to offer new lines of T-shirts, cardigans, scarves, belts and accessories designed to perfectly compliment colored pants.
    To celebrate this focus on color, UNIQLO has launched a new TV and online campaign calling on women of all ages to “lead colorful lives!”  Here is the video …

    lead colorful lives–Uniqlo

    About Uniqlo :
    Working with over 100 factories throughout Asia, UNIQLO is distinctive in that it combines the quality and craftsmanship that is synonymous with Japanese culture with the ability to manufacture in high volume, thereby offering consumers affordable everyday products with exceptional attention to every detail.

    Image credits: Telegraph.co.uk, Japantoday.com etc

  • US Denim Imports Fall 14.7 %Cent In 2011

    Denim imports downThe last year had not been a great year for the US denim market. The retail sales were not so great and for the first time since 2007, the imports of denim apparel fell by a large number – 14% over those in 2010.

    First lets see how were the imports of denim apparel into US were faring in the last 5 years from 2006 to 2010. As we can see below, the imports only fell in 2007 and thereafter there has been a steady increase in the quantities of imported products. However, the average price did fell in 2009 and 2010.

    US Denim Apparel Imports 2011

    Now, for 2011

    Total quantity : 521 million pieces
    Value : $4,344 million
    Average Price per piece :     $8.33

    The average prices for the imports rose significantly in 2011 due to average increase in prices of cotton and other fibers. The increase in price was actually huge – about +16.5%

    The countries which lost out the most during 2011 were the following :

    Country 2010 (million pcs) 2011 % Change
    China 192 151 -21.6%
    Bangladesh 82 66 -20%
    Egypt 28 23 -18%
    Pakistan 22 18 -17.5%
    Cambodia 25 21 -16%

    Among the gainers  or the countries not much affected were
    Mexico and Nicaragua  and some other countries like Lesotho , Guatemala etc.

    Country 2010 (million pcs) 2011 (million pcs) % change
    Mexico 132 127 -3%
    Nicaragua 19 24 +19%

    The statistics give an indication that the concept of near sourcing is catching on with the buyers in US. The effect of the rising costs in China is particularly being felt and though the options of shifting bases to countries in Asia like Bangladesh, Cambodia, Vietnam etc remains, the buyers also want to put more eggs in the South American markets !!

  • Levi’s Fall/Winter 2012 Denim Looks

    On Wednesday, February 15, 2012, , The Levi’s® brand launched its first ever global collection during New York Fashion Week at SoHo’s landmark Mercer 82 event space. During the event – a hybrid between custom-made vignettes featuring pinnacle products from the line and a runway show – the Levi’s® brand showcased the key looks from its Fall/Winter 2012 collection.
    Here is a nice video from Stylesight – leading online trend forecaster- who took an interview with Jonathan Cheung, Levi’s VP Global Men’s Merchandising; Jill Guenza, Levi’s Women’s Global Senior Design Director, and Miles Johnson, Levi’s XX Design Director.

    “Levi’s® has always been about embracing the energy and events of our time. Today, fashion is more democratic and accessible than ever, making New York Fashion Week the perfect moment in time for the Levi’s® brand to launch our first global collection,” said Len Peltier, Global Vice President of Creative Direction.

    The Levi’s® Fall/Winter 2012 collection is based on a more refined and tailored look, for both men and women. The designs were inspired by the idea of craftsmanship, honesty and authenticity – honoring tradition while defying convention, redefining the norm and re-crafting and re-creating iconic Levi’s® styles.

    Fall/Winter 2012 Denim Collection

    Steeped in the authenticity and craftsmanship that the brand is known for, the collection is built around classic and refined styles with sharp clean aesthetics, which have been tailored to perfection.

    The key trend for men this season is the tapered look, for a great flattering fit that sits just below the waist, is slouchy on the top and has a slim tailored leg. The colors of indigo seem to have gotten lighter, brighter and shinier  . The stitching threads were normally non-contrasting and going along the same shades as the denim or even white. So the focus is “Formal and Crafted Wear” taking their denim collection  away from the distressed looks and washes that we have been seeing for years. Also could be seen bike messenger length pants ,

    For women, the key look for the season is the Bootcut Skinny, which the Levi’s® brand claims to have completely reinvented. As per Levi’s , this look is

    “..no longer your mother’s bootcut denim, this season will see the launch of this new take on a classic – a sexy, modern skinny fit making you forever think differently about the bootcut.”

     

    Levis.Fall2012 Denim Jeans Collection For Women

    Levis.Fall2012 Denim Jeans Collection For WomenLevis.Fall2012.4Levis.Fall2012 Denim Jeans Collection For MenMaria Menounos, Brad Goreski

    Here is a video from the runway ….

    Here is a description of some key from  the show(denim and others) :

    1. repurposed tailored sack coat
    indigo-striped highway trucker shirt jacket
    cinch back pantaloon…………….
    2. tailored chambray workshirt
    melton wool military jacket
    508™ sta-prest™ khaki short…………..
    3. bonded parka in rifle green-safari
    1950s khaki twill sports coat…………….
    513â„¢ sta-prestâ„¢ slim in harvest pumpkin
    4.electric blue plaid flannel workshirt
    oversized engineered blue and yellow striped tee
    repurposed vintage performance trucker jacket
    511™ sta-prest™ cropped skinny in olive…………
    5. made & crafted wide leg chino
    made & crafted custom type 2 suede trucker jacket….
    6. hooded commuter trucker jacket in olive twill
    engineered striped cardigan with contrast buttons
    commuter workshirt……………………………..
    508â„¢ commuter cropped taper in charcoal
    7. commuter workshirt in white
    heather grey sweatshirt
    511™ sta-prest™ cropped pant…………
    8.coated indigo tencel low-slung dungaree
    crisp white french cuff button down…………..
    9. coated indigo tencel pleated tap short
    crisp white french cuff button down……………
    10. coated minimal zip front trucker jacket in jet black
    coated cotton workshirt………………………..
    505® commuter straight cropped in carolina blue
    11.coated indigo tencel pleated prairie skirt
    crisp white french cuff button down…………
    12. heather grey heritage tshirt
    sta-prestâ„¢ trucker in braveheart twill
    japanese indigo checked plaid jacket.
    511â„¢ sta-prestâ„¢ skinny electric blue pant
    striped yellow and blue d ring belt
    13. natural canvas trucker shirt
    engineered 3-pocket work vest
    engineered type 2 trucker jacket
    cinch back engineered carpenter pants….
    14.tuxedo shirt in indigo tencel
    re-crafted tailored flare…………………
    15. red & blue color-blocked ripstop vest
    red & blue color-blocked hooded track jacket
    black fishtail parka jacket……………….
    508â„¢ sta-prestâ„¢ taper in khaki
    16. levis® curve id skinny bootcut     with customized
    tencel godets.    coated indigo tencel dress shirt
    cropped single button rinsed denim blazer……….
    17. oversized workwear jumper with asymmetrical pockets………………………..
    18. commuter workshirt in black poplin
    black bomber in melton wool & canvas
    extreme drop taper pant…………………
    19. diamond stitched indigo bomber
    dip-dyed indigo dress shirt.511â„¢ skinny raw denim pant
    black belt………………………….
    20. gypsy print legging crisp white french button down
    21. coated indigo tencel a-line duster skirt
    wool herringbone blazer crisp white french cuff button down
    22. lvc 1920s sunset henley in dark grey melee
    lvc 1930s twill britches
    lvc 1915 striped suspenders
    lvc 1912 blanket wool mackinaw coat
    23. lvc 1950s shorthorn checked flannel shirt
    lvc 1920s chinos
    24. lvc 1918 women’s all-in-one freedomalls
    25.lvc 1920s wool sack coat
    lvc 1920s wool buckle back trousers
    lvc 1950s shorthorn blanket striped flannel shirt
    26. lvc 1960s 519 sta-prestâ„¢, burnt henna 812 corduroys
    lvc 1930s button-neck sportswear sweater
    lvc black and red woven leather belt
    27. made & crafted yellow blanket lined sack coat
    made & crafted striped print trucker jacket
    lvc 1920s corduroy trousers
    28. made & crafted ochre drill cotton linen chino
    made & crafted cotton linen, bright blue, shawlcollared sack coat made & crafted wool herringbone checked workshirt
    29. made & crafted tailored indigo sack coat…………..
    made & crafted indigo flannel sailor trousers
    made & crafted short shirt in golden yellow and mazarine blue
    30. made & crafted wool checked trucker shirt
    made & crafted rigid sack coat
    made & crafted striped wool type 2 vest
    made & crafted cinch back carpenter pants
    31. made & crafted type 1 indigo wool jacket with striped weft made & crafted hi-rise cropped five pocket wool pants
    32. made & crafted aztec lambswool v-neck
    made & crafted suede type 2 jacket customized us military jacket lvc 1920s teal chino
    33. u.s. navy shirt (vintage)
    508â„¢ sta-prestâ„¢ short in harvest gold
    34. trucker shirt jacket in japanese indigo blue and white hemp vest .505® bedford cord
    35. french awning striped hemp jacket double-faced engineered workshirt cropped selvedge carpenter jeans with leather -backed hammer loop
    36. selvedge wool denim slim jeans diamond stitched herringbone sack coat diamond stitched wool waistcoat
    grandfather tailored shirt 37. clean rigid button down with articulated pockets clean rigid high-waisted a-line skirt
    38. soft-constructed two-button blazer modern chambray workshirt  562â„¢ loose creased with tailored cuff
    39.520â„¢ overall in japanese selvedge twill, charcoal grey ,japanese selvedge twill two-button snap front tailored blazer,japanese selvedge twill tailored shirt with hidden placket

    Sponsored link:
    Reproducible Effects in Finishing of Denim

  • Denim By PV Trends For Spring/Summer ‘13

    We have been late in bringing the report of trends from Denim by PV for the Spring/Summer 2013. However, its better to be late than never!

    Here is a report from Stylesight – the leading trend agency worldwide – on the trends from Denim By PV held in Dec’11.

    Cheat Sheet

    1. Soft touch remains a key focus for many mills Cellulose TENCEL® and Modal fibers become essential Soft-focus looks for peached surfaces and dense, tactile hands.
    2. Growing each season, eco-friendly technology remains key for S/S 13
      Recycled yarns become more widely used and aesthetically pleasing
      Low-impact technologies, fibers and processes remain priorities for mills.
    3. Finishes and treatments evolve shine for S/S 13 Pearlescent and iridescent looks move on from traditional resin shine. Two-tone and shot silk looks create fashion-forward denim surfaces.

    1.Engineered Herringbone

    Herringbone evolves for S/S 13 with new 3-D weaves. Graphic and pronounced herringbones create cord-like surfaces / Deep ridged textures offer tactile touch / New take on the engineered stripe trend / Workwear and tailoring references / Double weaves and double-faced fabrics.

    Engineered Herringbone Orta Anadolu Tejidos Royo Denim

    Engineered Herringbone Isko Kuoki Denim

    2.Dobby Weaves

    A trend that emerged at last winter!s show, dobby weaves had a stronger presence this season. Small, intricate designs created using dobby attachments on looms / Allover geometric designs / Raised, extra
    yarn weaves create 3-D looks / Honeycomb and waffle appearances / Broken twill variations / Strong white weft presence on fabric faces.

    Dobby Weaves UCO sportswear Denim

    Dobby Weaves Isko Tavex Denim

    3.Duck Canvas

    A trend that emerged two seasons ago at niche mills, duck canvas offerings grow to meet demand.Clean and durable canvas constructions, reminiscent of workwear fabrics / Neutral shades of ecru and mustard /Indigo overdyes and yarn dyes / Premium selvedge canvas as chino alternative / Popular visual texture with rugged associations.

    Duck Canvas Cone Denim Isko Denim

    4.Salt+Pepper wefts

    Tweedy textures emerged two seasons ago and continue their importance for S/S 13.Switching focus to weft yarns, creates a more subtle, wearable fabric / Weft textures add visual interest to denim faces after wash-down / Twisted yarn alternative with a more menswear and heritage feel / Cozy denim look for summerweight denims.

    Salt+Pepper wefts Isko Calik Denim

     

    5.Marled Grey

    Mélanges create a summery textured yarn for S/S 13.Neppy, textured and flecked greys / Jersey denim looks / Inspired by retro marls and activewear / Cone Denim!s recycled yarns / Twisted yarns and slubby surfaces / Menswear-centric story.

    Marled Grey Central fabrics cone denim

    Marled Grey Uco Sportswear Cone denim

    6.Knit Indigo

    Jersey-look indigo or indigo-look knits emerge for S/S 13.Knit indigo is making big waves in denim / Focus on comfort denim with soft and stretch capabilities / Indigo knits at Isko led to Diesel!s “Jogg Jeans” range / Bossa, Calik and Montebello are all experimenting / Ultra-high stretch / Improved recovery and super-soft hands / Activedenim hybrid fabrics for casualwear.

    Knit Indigo I.T.V Industria tessi del vomano Isko Denim

    Knit Indigo I.T.V Industria tessi del vomano Montebello denim

    7.Tencel Stretch

    Stretch continues to be a key denim initiative with new TENCEL® blends for S/S 13. Super stretchy blends merge the fluidity and softness of cellulose / Orta Slow Fit TENCEL® and cupro blends have memory stretch / Huge range of TENCEL® stretch fabrics by Italdenim includes colored denims / Surfacesare glossy, super-soft and malleable / Second skin feeling.

    Tencel Stretch italdenim spa artistic fabric mills denim

    8.Soft Focus

    Focusing on hand, mills look to finish, weave and fiber advancements for increased tactility.Brushed cottons have peached surfaces / Sateen weaves remain important / Tightly constructed, dense stretch weaves/Soft moleskin looks and fluffy appearances.

    Soft Focus absolute denim calik denim

     

    9.Dense+Compact

    Clean, compact fabrics have smooth and refined denim finishes.Premium looks with clean and compact surfaces / Durable, dry and dense weaves / Deadstock raws and clean constructions / Dry and flat finishes give denim smooth shine.

    Dense+Compact orta anadolu arvind limited denim

    10.cellulose updates

    Cellulose alternatives to traditional cotton are flooding the denim market.
    New innovations continue to drive these denims forward / Lyocell expert Royo offers colored, laundered and treated blends for S/S 13/ Cone explores unexpectedly authentic yet super-soft blends, proving denim does not have to be lightweight and fluid / Black TENCEL® denims emerge.

    cellulose updates prosperity textile cone denim

    11.Vintage Drape

    Open construction and drape offer comfortable hands and summery, vintage attitude. Lightweights reemerge for summer / Focus on open, fluid and unstable weaves / Crosshatch lightweights remain an important texture story from S/S 12 / Comfortably worn-in fabrics create an “old favorite” jean feeling / Bias cuts enhance drape.

    Vintage Drape orta anadolu cone denim

    12.Recycled Yarns

    Working toward a sustainable future, mills highlight recycled denims.
    Reused denim scrap waste from fabric and garment manufacturing stages / Cone Denim!s EarthSPUN wefts made from recycled green, brown and blue plastic bottles / Eco-premium recycled selvedge denim from Nihonmenpu / Paper wefts at Calik Denim / Unique indigo shades and neppy constructions / Textured fill yarn qualities.

    Recycled Yarns tejidos royo calik denim cone denim

    13.Linen/cotton

    A key S/S 13 development, mills look to linen to update traditional all cotton denim.Air-dried and creased looks have casual summer attitude / Linen wefts bring cooling properties / Glossy yet relaxed surfaces / Neppy and slubby yarns / Used on 7 to 12oz. denims.

    Linen/cotton calik denim I.t.v-industria tessi del vomano denim

    14.Slub chambray

    Chambray looks rustic with slubby and neppy textures.Vertical and horizontal slub yarns / Rustic updates for plain weaves / Exaggerated crosshatches are key / Skyblue indigo shades / Vintage loom defects nod to the Dust Bowl era.

    Slub chambray orta anadolu cappio tessuti denim

    Slub chambray nihonmenpu textile inc. isko crenel denim

    15.Summer greens

    Last season!s green-cast denims become laundered and muted for S/S 13.
    More obvious, cleaner greens take over from tinted green indigos of last season / Chambrays and textured,neppy denims / Rustic weaves and vintage laundries / Pale pastel looks and recycled wefts at Cone Denim /
    Unisex denim story mixes vintage with fashion.

    Summer greens artistic fabric mills ota anadolu kuroki denim

    16.Pastel wash

    Pale shades are two-tone, diffused and laundered.Soft palette of baby blue, mint green, peach and pink / Whitened colors and coated pales / Pastel shades bleed through at seams / Colored wefts with white warps / Breakages and surface distressing create interest.

    Pastel wash cone denim calik denim avrind limited

    17.Pearlescent

    For S/S 13, resin finishes become pastel and pearlescent.New stretch coatings offer summer alternatives to leather / Super shiny / Glitter particles / Color ranges from pastels to girly brights / Pearlescent resin finishes suit Juniors and Tweens.

    Pearlescent isko tejidos royo

    18.Luminescence

    Distinctly purple-cast, two-tone denims emerge for S/S 13.Two-tone indigo replicates shot silk / Colored wefts with indigo warps / Iridescent yarns and glossy TENCEL® /Focus on glossy surface sheen.

    Luminescence prosperity textile kuroki denim

    Luminescence R.s.p.SI tavex denim

    19.Lurex shine

    The shiny denim trend strengthens with metallic yarns, wefts and treatments expanding offerings.Liquid gold and silver effects add dazzling glamour to denim / Iridescent metallic lightweights at Kuroki / Metallic
    coatings become malleable, lighter weight and fluid for summer / High stretch constructions.

    Lurex shine kuroki global denim tekstil denim

     

    20.Plastic people

    Clear resins give new plastic shine to black and indigo fabrics.Polished looks achieved with new resin layers / Flattened constructions create a starched and pressed effect /Shine creates sculptural and molded relief to denim / Clean, classic denims transform with sophisticated finishes.

    Plastic people itadenim spa isko tavex denim

    21.Color explosion

    Attendees could not ignore the vast color ranges for S/S 13.Color stories show no sign of abating for S/S 13 / Colored wefts in significantly brighter shades / Saturated brights and gemstone palettes / Quirky contrast red, purple and green wefts against blue.

    Color explosion vicunha texti tejidos royo uco sportswear denim

    Color d : Colored Premium Denim Fabrics For Spring – Summer 2013  yarn dyed color denim fabrics

    22.Awning stripes

    Railroad stripes inspire a new breed of indigo pattern for S/S 13.Thick woven awning or prison stripes / Horizontal looks / Mattress ticking and vintage tea towel looks / Doubleweave denims with striped wefts / New jacquard plaids at Nihonmenpu / New proportions and scales move the story forward / Screen-printed and discharge stripes / Ecru and indigo color palette.

    Awning strips i.t.v - industria tessi del vomano avrind limited denim

     

    About Stylesight:  Stylesight  is a leading provider of trend content, tools and technology for creative professionals in the fashion and style industries.

  • Nudie Jeans : Spring / Summer 2012 Denim Collection

    “Rather than doing the conventional trend spotting , we find inspiration in other cultural fields such as movies and music. We also find it in the inexhaustible history of denim , and we get it from all the dedicated users wearing our dry jeans until they fall apart . The Swedish work culture and the melting pot of modern Scandinavia culture also meet and merge in the collections.”

    This is what the Swedish denim brand Nudie Jeans have to say about their collections. They do not go for any trend spottings and follow their own instincts and derive inspiration from culture and history to make the new collections.
    The Spring Summer 2012 denim range is divided into Dry, Worn and Worn Authentic – simply after the amount of washing treatments given at the laundry.
    The Nudie Jeans Indigo tops range is a selection of indigo dyed knitwear , shirts, T-shirts and washed denim jackets – a range where indigo shows its diversity in shades and intensity.

    1. DRY

    dry selvedge denim nudie

    Dry Flat Selvedge : Dry Italian 13.25oz selvedge denim with a little red cast. Its compact and regular with a smooth flat surface.

    dry selvedge denim nudie

    12oz Dry Selvedge Italian denim . It has a very open construction allowing weft to shine through. The surface is dry  and flat, shiny with a little bit of streakiness.

    dry selvedge denim nudie

    Dry Orange Selvedge :

    Made of 13.5oz japanese denim , the warp has been dipped in 13 indigo baths on top of sulphur to create a green cast . The fabric is slubby and with a tight weaving. For an authentic look, the weft has a beige shade. And by the way , buttons and rivets are made of silver !

    dry selvedge denim nudie jeans

    Organic Dry Twill : 11.5oz organic Turkish power stretch. Clean flat surface and dry hand feel and  low red cast

    Organic dry selvedge denim nudie

    Recycle Dry Navy : 11.5oz power stretch denim from Turkey made with both organic cotton and recycled cotton. It’s a red cast with tight construction , smooth shiny surface and is neppy. 68% Organic cotton, 29% recycled cotton and 3% elastane.

    Organic Recycled dry selvedge denim nudie

    Black Black :
    12oz Turkish power stretch with super blue indigo overdyed with black .
    Black Black Denim

    Dry Black Coated:
    The core Nudie jeans denim jacket in a dry black coated denim. Black back pocket stitching at back yoke. Twin needle stitches in black all over and customized copper buttons. 98% cotton , 2% Elastane.
    Dry Black Coated:

    2.Worn:

    The worn concept emulates the qualities of worn in dry jeans in many aspects. A shortcut to breaking in own jeans !
    Worn Look : Nudie Jeans

    Worn Look : Nudie Jeans

    Worn Look : Nudie Jeans

    Worn Look : Nudie Jeans

    3.Worn Authentic

    Giving a pair of jeans looks of at least having been worn for one year. The creases on the thighs and the back of knees have to be exactly in the same places. Folded sandpaper with the right grit is used to create streaks on denim . Rasps are used to carefully create holes, which are patched after washing.

    Madde Replica: 12oz denim from Italy . The original was broken into to create this look . The jeans has very natural worn in look , mending, great honey combs  and moustaches.

    Worn Authentic Look : Nudie Jeans

    Lab 32
    A pair of well worn jeans by a photographer in Stockholm inspires this great looking jeans in a 13.25 oz Italian denim.
    Worn Authentic Look : Nudie Jeans

    Color denim collections

  • Edwin Jeans : Spring Summer 2012 Look Book

    The denim  from Edwin range has been extended again for SS12 with a couple of new products  worth mentioning including the a light organic jean  and the ED-55 (available for the first time in red-listed selvedge).

    Shirting is designed for a free and easy lifestyle – chambrays, linen, stripes are the order of the day..

    The riders were outfitted in Edwin denim,: including covetable RV selvage denim jacket., black chambray shirts,  Red Listed selvage and  Rainbow Listed selvage jeans.

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

     

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

     

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

     

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

    Edwin - Spring/ Summer Denim Look Book 2012

    About Edwin’s History:

    Mr Tsunemi had a passion for denim, which inspired him to import them directly from the United States as no denim was manufactured in Japan at that time. Used, worn-out and dirty denim which had to be laundered and mended by hand in order to sell on to his customers. In 1951 domestically manufactured denim was available for the first time in Japan. This product was expensive and of inferior quality compared to its American counterparts. Mr Tsumeni was driven to create his own denims, with greater sophistication in fits, washes and quality. From this point on in Edwin denim , quality, craftsmanship, innovation and integrity have been paramount to the ethos and aesthetic for the brand. In 1961 Mr. Tsunemi crafted the first pair of Edwin denim jeans. Utilising the letters D, E, N, I & M (reversing the M creating a W) he created the brand name ‘Edwin’. By 1963 Edwin had produced the world’s heaviest(at that time) ringspun denim jean (16oz), featuring the famous three-colour rainbow selvedge, which is still being used today. In the 1970’s Edwin were the first company in the world to develop ‘old wash’ designed to replicate denim which have been worn from its rigid, unwashed state traditionally designed for workwear due to its durability. In the 1980’s Edwin invented ‘stone washing’ which revolutionised the entire denim industry and was a pivotal moment in the evolution of denim manufacturing, thus influencing, every denim company in existence today. In the 1990’s Edwin created the ‘new vintage’ denim concept, which encompasses the subtle beauty of hand replicating vintage washes from archive references pre-dating 1947.

     

     

  • How Much Were US Apparel And Textile Imports in 2011?

    What is really the quantum of apparel and textile imports into US ?
    How do these imports compare to those made in 2009 and 2010 ?
    Did the recessionary conditions affect the imports of textile and apparel in 2011 ?
    How much of these imports were under Free Trade Agreements ?
    Lets find answer to these questions in the following  table :

    Import From 2011 (Jan –Nov) 2010 (Jan-
    Nov)     		2009 (Jan- Dec) 2010 (Jan – Dec)
    World $106.1 billion $96.7 billion $90.5 billion $104.6 billion
    Under Free Trade Agreements $15.7 billion $13.99 billion $13.6 billion $15.2 billion
    % under Free Trade Agreements 14.8% 14.46% 15.02% 14.53%

    Source: Otexa

    The total textile and apparel imports into US in 2010 were about $104 billion and those in 2011 (Jan-Nov) have touched $106 billion. Also when we compare with 2009, the imports increased from $90.5 billion significantly rose to $104 billion in 2010 and continue to rise in 2011. This reflects the inherent strength of the US market that  inspite of the economic recession the textile and apparel imports continue to rise .Though the increased cotton prices may have played some role in increasing the value of these imports, still the sentiment for imports seems positive for the entire industry..

    Also, it is interesting to note that almost 15% of all imports fall under the various Free Trade Agreements like CAFTA, AGOA etc. The govt. has been maintaining this figure at around 15% for last 2 years .

    What is the % of denim apparel imports out of these total imports ??
    Its around 4% !. Though it looks small, denim is still an important apparel category when viewed in comparison to other categories.