Author: Sandeep Agarwal

  • Gap 1969 Premium Denim Jeans – Promotion Strategy , Videos etc..

    The launch of the Gap 1969 premium denim has been widely covered by the press . Gap is a large retailer listed on the NASDAQ and it has been showing flat or negative results  for quite some time now –and now the world is watching whether " Gap can do it” and whether this new jeans can bring it back on rails..

    Here are some miscellaneous points about this launch – its promotion strategy, a video explaining the different styles in 1969 and a behind the scenes video on ‘Born to Fit’

    1. Gap will rely on Facebook instead of TV ads to reach customers. Gap has created a Facebook Page . The ‘Born To Fit’ campaign is designed to make it interactive and anyone with a facebook account  can upload their photos and create  a ‘Born to ….” tagline. So you will find  photos of people with interesting taglines like ‘Born to Smile’, ‘Born to Dance’ , ‘Born to Tell Stories’   and many more .. This  widget is posted on a users facebook profile and if approved, on the Gap’s facebook page also. The idea is clear – let people create their their own widgets around Gap 1969 and share with the world. This way consumers would be themselves marketing the company’s product . Cool..
    2. Gap seems to be luring the stock traders at the New York Stock Exchange to push up the Gap stock price by providing them 1200 free 1969 jeans..Well actually , it was in commemoration of Gap’s 40th Anniversary coinciding with the launch of the premium denim line.
    3. Learn about Gap 1969 from Gap’s Denim architect: This is a nice video from Gap explaining the different women’s and men’s styles and why they think they are so special .
      4. And here is a behind the scenes video for ‘Born to fit ‘ campaign.
      1. 6.3 % Rise In Women’s Jeans Imports In USA During Jan- June 2009

        Its great to see some positive news in these recessionary times. And here is one very good news on the imports of Women’s/Girls Denim Jeans into USA – a 6.3% increase in the first six months over the same period last  year. This also corroborates the 2.3%  increase in sales of Denim Jeans in USA in the first 4 months of the year 2009 and indicates that this whole year is going to be good for denim. Checkout the figures for imports given below and see the change in share of different countries.

         

        Countrywise Imports of Women’s Denim Jeans  into USA

        During   2008 and 2009(Jan- June period)

        Country Jan-June 2008
        (million pieces)
        Jan-June 2009
        (million pieces)
        % change
        China 21.3 41.95 +96.95% !!
        Mexico 12.5 10.82 -13.1%
        Hong Kong 11.6 1.2 -89.66%
        Bangladesh 7.0 7.98 +13.67%
        Cambodia 6.6 5.23 -20.58%
        Egypt 6.4 6.82 +6.95%
        Macao 5.7 0.92 83.91%
        Nicaragua 4.9 2.82 -42.68%
        Vietnam 4.3 7.78 +80.77%
        Jordan 2.9 3.76 +29.21%
        Pakistan 2.7 2.94 +8.4%
        Sri Lanka 2.4 2.64 +12.24%
        Indonesia 2.3 2.43 +6.8%
        Madagascar 2.1 2.1 No Change
        Lesotho 1.9 2.44 +27.5%
        Kenya 1.3 2.50 +95%
        India 1.4 1.34 -3.4%
        Phillipines 0.8 0.6 -25%
        Taiwan 0.6 0.06 -90%
        Turkmenistan 0.4 0.61 +50%
        Mauritius 0.3 0.57 +90%
        Others 5.82 4.37 -24.91%
        Total 105.22 111.88 +6.32%

         

        There are some interesting things to note from the above figures:

        1. China has seen a stumpendous increase in exports of Women’s/Girls’ Denim Jeans exports to USA and has almost doubled the same within a year. However, these figures have to be seen alongwith the figures of exports of Hongkong which has almost lost 90% of its exports. This clearly means that the denim jeans that  were last year being exported from Hongkong are now being exported through China. Inspite of this , the increase in China’s exports of Jeans has been phenomenal.. Has it got something to do with recession and a preference for cheaper products??
        2. Most of the South American countries like Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Guatemala have been continously losing share of these exports (womens’ denim). However, the South East Asian /South Asian countries like Vietnam, Cambodia, Bangladesh ,Pakistan and Sri Lanka have been improving their share. Vietnam’s performance has been ,in particular , hs been very impressive in this category of denim jeans.
        3. It is interesting to see that Jordan and Egypt both have increased their share. It shows that currently Egypt is not proving as much a threat to Jordan’s exports (in this category) as had been feared.
        4. It is however, to be noted that the exports of denim jeans (men’s as well as women’s ) peak during the second half of the year. The figures for many countries could change during this half and show some reversal in trends. But the overall undertone for denim  is strongly positive and shows that sales of denim jeans is nowhere affected by the recessionary times.

        I shall shortly post a report on the imports of Mens’/Boys’ Denim Jeans into USA in 2009 and I hope that it shall show similar positive trends..

        Note: Like the report ? If u want to receive such reports free , just subscribe to the newsletter by entering your email address(if not already subscribed)..

      2. Denim Buyers’ Queries Report – August , 2009

         

        Here is our latest report on the latest buyer queries on Denim – Fabrics and Jeans  that we found on the net.

        Product Buyer from Details Link

        Denim Fabric

        Turkey 6.5oz – 12oz Cotton and Tencel Denim Buyer

        Mens & Women’s Jeans

        N.A Denim Jeans Stock lots at $1.60/piece Jeans Buyer

        Denim Fabrics

        Not Specified Denim Fabrics Stock Lots preferably from India & Pakistan Denim Fabric buyer details 
        Denim Fabric China Tencel/Cotton Denim Fabric 50,000 mtr Denim buyer details

         

         

        These queries have been culled from various sites on the net  and posted here so that our readers – many  of whom are Denim Producers – can benefit from them.  However, we have not, in any way, verified these buyers and the readers are advised to act accordingly. Some of the sites (from where these buyer queries are taken) may ask visitors to register free to see full details of buyers.

        Please do leave your feedback in the comments whether you find this buyer query report useful or not. And if there are any suggestions to improve the same.

      3. $70 Gap 1969 Premium Denim Jeans Launched

        Gap Creative Director Patrick Robinson launched their new 1969 Men’s/Women’s Jeans Collection by opening the company’s new 1969 Jean Shop on Robertson Boulevard  in West Hollywood, California. Named after the inception year of Gap (1969), these jeans have a great recession free price tag of  max $70.However, some styles can be bought for under $60 also.

        gap 1969 ashlee simpson

        Perhaps to stress  the premium denim label of these jeans , the launch has been made at Robertson Boulevard -which is one of the most important retail destinations for denim in L.A  – in a heritage inspired  denim pop-up store with a number of celebrities  including Ashlee Simpson -Wentz, Emma Roberts, Molly Sims, Anthony Kiedis and Halle Berry  in attendance.

        gap 1969 jeans collection

        gap 1969 jeans collection mens

        So don’t you need to spend  $200 for a jeans with great fit and fabrics and finishes ?

         

        Answer would be yes if you believe what  Gap claims . The creative director for this line – Patrick Robinson – spent a year and a half fine-tuning the line, from shopping around for fabrics, and teaching factories how to make those perfect hand-made finishes, to working with several body types to master that perfect fit.  He says

        “For me, honestly, these are the best fitting jeans in the world.  We’ll go up against any brand of any jean, and these fit better,”

        “We want[ed] jeans that, for women, make you have the best butt in the world ”.

         

        Lets wait and see if the customers are going to echo his sentiments .

         

        Some features of the new collection

      4. Classic rinses and hues from darkest ink to light, distressed finishes.
      5. 14 new styles for men and women  include Always Skinny, Real Straight,Sexy Boot, Long and Lean, Curvy, and Perfect Boot for women and the Straight, Authentic,Standard fits for Men.
      6. Boyfriend for women and the Skinny for men are also included.
      7. The 1969 jean cuts will stay the same each season, while buttons, washes and detailing will change to reflect current trends. So you won’t miss your fit when your favorite jeans give out.
      8. Re-worked denim styles with selvage details in their hems, stitching, washes, hardware and seems.

         

        Will this collection give a tough time to other Premium Denim Brands ?

        Impacted by recessionary times, the Super Premium Denim category has already been witnessing a fall in sales.  Already the average prices of Premium Denims have been falling and if Gap has brought out a reasonably decent product, it is not doubtful that Gap could take away a sizeable share of the premium denim market and give other brands a run for their money.

         

        For those who want to visit the Gap 1969 shop, here is the address :

         

        Open till: Sunday, September 27, 2009

                                Monday – Sunday: 10:30 a.m. – 7:00 p.m.

        Where:  108 N Robertson Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90048

                                (310) 285-1880

    1. 35% Fall In Denim Fabric Imports In USA in 2009 – A report

      The first half of this year ( period Jan-May 2009) has seen a drop of 34% in the imports of Denim Fabrics into US. This is surprising if we consider that the sales of Jeans in during this period has actually increased by 2.3 %.

      But as mentioned in this previous report , sales Super of Premium Denim Jeans ( $200 + Jeans) in the US has taken a knock. And the same is reflected in lower production of Premium Denim Jeans in US and thus lower imports of denim fabrics . Lets analyze these figures :

      Consolidated Data for Denim fabrics:

                                          Jan-May 2008            Jan- May 2009

      Imports in US

      (Linear mtrs)         13 Million Mtrs          8.6 Million Mtrs

       

      Here I am giving the figures of  denim fabrics reflecting the exports of Denim Fabrics from various countries during this period.

       

      Imports of Denim Fabrics In USA in Jan- May 2009

      Country Jan-May 2008 Jan-May 2009 %Change
      (Figures   in 1000 mtrs )  
      China 4,362 2,568 -41%
      Italy 2,085 1,022 -46%
      Taiwan 1,720 1,903 +10%
      Mexico 1,639 1,682 +3%
      Turkey 1,505 305 -80% !
      Japan 456 540 +18% .Good !
      Slovenia 397 0 -100% !
      Bahrain 373 203 -45%
      Pakistan 140 16 88%
      Spain 87 10 -89%
      Hong Kong 56 10 -81%
      Indonesia 88 0 -100%
      India 16 43 +161%

      Source: U.S. Department of Commerce and the U.S. Int’l Trade Commission.However
      square mtr figures have been converted to Linear mtrs(1m=1.55sq m average) for easy understanding.

      This fall in the imports of Denim fabrics into US coincides with an increase

      in sales of Jeans. This can indicate the following:

      a) Manufacturing of Premium jeans in US has taken a knock.
      b)Some of the Premium Denim Brands may have actually shifted part of their productions overseas to reduce costs.

      It is also interesting to see that where countries like China , Italy  and Turkey have lost substantial volumes, others like  Taiwan, Mexico and Japan have gainedHere, however, it should be noted that Premium Denim brands have a marked preference for Japanese denim fabrics . However, these fabrics may not always come directly from Japan only.They are sometimes  routed through China and Hongkong also .

      Taiwan is a quiet but regular exporter of denim fabrics. It does not figure anywhere as a large denim manufacturing country  , but it does manufacture very specialized denim fabrics and US has always been its regular buyer . And for the last few years, Premium Denim manufacturers have been using its fabrics in volumes.

      Italy and Turkey are two other major countries to have their exports reduced.  However, with improving market in US, their exports might pick up a bit.

      Other countries are really so small in their export figures that % changes in their figures hardly make a difference.

       

    2. Super Premium Denim Jeans Sales Fall While Denim Rules ..

      The year 2008 has been bad for most of the industries and early 2009 has not been good either.Apparel industry has not been an exception and  has been hit with a 6.3% decline in the first quarter.. However, sales of denim jeans has been a bright spot in this otherwise dismal scenario. The sales of jeans has actually grown 2.3% in this period . Does it mean that denim jeans are actually cannibalizing the share of other apparel bottoms ? Possibly . Levi’s – which has seen a growth in denim sales, has its non-denim Dockers brand  hit hard, and several of its retail stores have gone out of business.

      But all is not gung-ho in the denim industry . Some of the segments of the industry have suffered while others have gained. Let’s try to find answers to some questions related to the denim industry in US.

       

      What is the situation of the total denim sales in USA ?

       

      1. The denim jeans industry – a $13 billion industry – has actually grown 2.3% December 2008 – February 2009 where the apparel sales as a whole has declined 6.3% !
      2. Sales of large denim companies has improved .VF reported revenue from Wrangler jeans was up 3% in the first quarter of 2009, and Lee jeans sales was up 7% !

      What is happening to the Super Premium Denim Category ?

       

      1. This category of premium denims with a price tag of $200+  has suffered and sales went down 17% in this category last year .
      2. Reason – Inspirational shoppers are not going that high and luxury customers are not buying more than 2-3 pairs anymore..
      3. So at 7 for All Mankind, about 95% of the company’s jeans are now less than $200, up from 70% a year ago.
      4. True Religion : Wholesale sales were down 17% in the first quarter, and sales at its stand-alone stores were down about 10%. But they are not yet changing their strategy and reducing prices. They expect consumers to come back for their jeans.

      What are the manufacturers of Premium Denim Brands doing to fight recession ?

      1. They are trying to communicate to their buyers why their jeans are so expensive. As Topher Gaylord, President of  7 for All Mankind says "It’s the hand distressing and other denim treatments make his production costs 10 times higher than jeans sold in the mass market” and this is what they are tyring to teach their customers.
      2. Due to drop in sales at Luxury departmental stores, they are trying to open more of their own stores. True Religion opened more than 30 in the last year. Lucky Jeans, owned by Liz Claiborne , is adding a number of specialty shops .
      3. They are trying to become a Life Style brand – with non-denim clothes and accessories to thrive.

      What are Department Stores doing to shore up their denim sales ?  

      1. Discounting their prices . Not depending on sales of Premium Denim Brands and instead focusing on their own or other mid-priced denim brands.
      2. Trying to add more denim brands . J.C.Penny  now sells about 25% more brands of jeans than it did five years ago, including wide-leg dark-denim jeans with cuffs
      3. Department stores are buying more of the $200-and-under jeans for this  fall.

      What are traditional denim brands like Levi’s and Wrangler doing?

       

      1. Trying to understand the needs of their consumers better and delivering those products at reasonable prices.
      2. Levi’s eg, is capitalizing on the trend toward "boyfriend jeans," which are snug on the rear and loose in the legs.were snug skinny-fit jeans, slim-fit jeans that Graden says are "not as snug," as well as new back-pocket treatments.
      3. Wrangler began offering jeans with a "Comfort Solution," which includes a waistband that expands as you move.
      4. Gap is trying to build jeans every bit as good as any premium player and trying to regain lost market share by offering 7 seven different "fits" for men and seven for women, including "always skinny" and "curvy."

      So it seems that denim is there to stay – whether its good times or bad. But denim brands will have adopt different strategies and cater to their own niche in a proper way. Check out some more details on Premium Denims on this article from USA Today  here

    3. First time denim participation in Texworld USA –July’09

      Texworld (owned by Messe Frankfurt) is one of the best fair for Textile Industry worldwide. It is being held in various countries (mostly bi-annually).

      Though there has been great participation by Denim Mills in Texworld Paris , Texworld USA saw the first participation by Denim Mills in the fair held on 14-16 July at New York.

       

      Some highlights related to Denim in Texworld USA":

      1.  Jeanologia – A Spanish Research & Development company , introduced the G2 Washing Machine for Denim Garments. This machine intends to lessen the environmental impact of producing denim garments.
      2. Rather than relying on the traditional combination of water and chemicals to produce various shades of denim, the G2 uses a process that relies on air. In addition to eliminating the use of water and chemicals, the G2 rids the finishing process of toxic emissions and dumping, and reduces overall energy usage. Jeanologia is also a poineer in producing a Textile laser product under brandname – GFK. This machine seems to  easily duplicate the most complicated distressing on any jean and produce an identical pair in minutes.. 
        I hope that environmentally machines like these become popular as future belongs to these machines. The  environmental degradation caused by Jeans production is not sustainable and is bound to be checked by Govt. rules and laws in the coming years.

      3. About 9 Denim Mills particpated in the show : Black Peony Ltd. (China); Fabrix Plus Co., Ltd. (Taiwan); Firemount Textiles Ltd. (Mauritius); Nantong Aufa Textiles Co., Ltd. (China); Prosperity Textile Ltd. (China); RS Denim Ltd. (Mauritius); S.M. Denim Mills (Pakistan); Soorty Enterprises (Pakistan); Xingtai Blue Diamond Dyeing & Weaving Co., Ltd. (China); and Zibo Lanyan Group (China).

      Here are some reviews by the textile mills on the show and on general market conditions.

      Since this has been the first inclusion of Denim in the Texworld USA, there is not much to write home about. However, since USA consumes about 35% of world denim , there is no reason that that Denim participation would not increase in this fair .

    4. Denim Buyers Report– Denim Fabrics & Jeans

       

      Here is our latest report on the latest buyer queries on Denim – Fabrics and Garments that we found on the net.

      Product Buyer from Details Link
      Denim Jeans N.A Stock of jeans from Pakistan only Denim Buyer
      Mens & Women’s Jeans Ukraine Denim Jeans or Cotton Pants Jeans Buyer
      Denim Jeans Australia All sizes of Jeans Jeans buyer from Australia

       

       

      These queries have been culled from various sites on the net  and posted here so that our readers – many  of whom are Denim Producers – can benefit from them.  However, we have not, in any way, verified these buyers and the readers are advised to act accordingly. Some of the sites (from where these buyer queries are taken) may ask visitors to register free to see full details of buyers.

      Please do leave your feedback in the comments whether you find this buyer query report useful or not. And if there are any suggestions to improve the same.

    5. Denim Fairs & Exhibitions Worldwide

      We have created a new page on the site regarding the Denim Fairs and Exhibitions that take place around the world. All the important fairs held in last 6 months and the fairs to be held in the next 6 months shall be listed here – though I will try to list a bit more of them.

       

      The interesting part would be that the fairs which have been held will have links to the reviews on denim against their name. Thus even if you have not visited the fair, you can have a fairly good idea of the fair from these links.

       

      Just visit this link on Denim Fairs & Exhibitions  and bookmark this page for future reference. Also, leave comments if you feel any important fair has been missed..

    6. Bread & Butter Berlin Jeans Fair July 2009– A Review

      The  BBB Jeans fair (July 2009) was a great success regarding the number of visitors coming from all parts of the world.

      But,the question is still of it was a fair for designers and photographers are where there so many buyers !!.

      The layout of the stands were excellent made and well organised and generally many colours could be seen!!!!

      Here is a brief note on some of the denim brands that were present there.

       

      LEE:

      -garments with holes ,,,,,, no pressing

      -unwashed

      -old and vintage look

      -bigger back pockets!!!! And low positioning

      -loose fit

      -back is the bib overall

       

      101 CONCEPT:

      -Ring/Ring fabrics , The fabrics were japanese – from Kurabo!!

      -Dark and medium washed

       

      WRANGLER:

      -Labels are bigger and colour full

      -Garments are more even,,,,, dark and medium washed (14OZ)

      -No pressing just blowing

      -Very few with dirty wash look

      LEVI’S

      -Black denim for 501——-normal washes !!!!dark/medium/bleached

      -Bleached with holes!!!!

      -Loose fit

      -Unwashed. I have the impression that Levi’s is moving away from the extreme washes.

      -many colours and coarse stitching on the back pockets and embroidery

      Similar  trends I found in brands – COLLIN’S and MAVI jeans (turkey)

      garments.

      Only brands made by ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED you find the extreme washes!!!

      Denim Fabric Trends Noticed:

      1. I have the impression that the most manufactures put more ATTENTION again to the fabric for sure 14OZ!!!
      2. The flamed denim is still in collection (inherent to ring yarns)
      3. Also crosshatch fabrics (R/R) more expensive fabrics are used more
      4. DEEP DYEING and PURE indigo
      5. Shrink to Fit Fabric is becoming HOT. It is weft stretch denim which is not sanforized and has a residual shrinkage of 15% in weft and 15% in warp.Elasticity is about 20-30% . Such fabric was made in the Eighties…

      A Note On TRC – (Denim Mill From Italy)

      TRC PROPOSED The  Selvedge Denim…

      1. Woven on the old Picanol president loom( anno 70 _80)
      2. Shuttle loom (unifill) width of fabric 75 cm
      3. Speed of loom :15O picks/min VERY SLOW

      Same concept was noticed at PH7 -Japanese brand– handcrafted…

      CONCLUSION

      Everyone was a little bit nervous for the further evolution and result AND hoping that after TWO years the economy should improve!!

      BUT now they all should try to overcome the 2 difficult years!! HOW ??

      Note for Denim Companies :

      1. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT to present the Fabric in LEG form and washed very well( different washes).
      2. Back pocket on the leg to see the contrast

      This makes the fabric more attractive FOR PRESENTATION.

      Here are some photographs I shot from the fair which show some of the trends noticed at the fair. Specially , notice the large pockets on some of the jeans .

      bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 AG bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag

      bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag

      bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag

      bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag

      bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag back pocket

      bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 lee

      bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 lee

      bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 ag  denim trend ripped jeans

      bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 pocket size big

      Can’t miss to show this stack of denim

      bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 stack of denim

      And Myself !!!

      bbb berlin jeans denim fair 2009 rik

      rik

      This is a guest post by Rik Vanniewenborgh who has over 30 years experience in Denim Industry. He has worked over 25 years in the VF Corporation (Belgium) in various capacities (including quality control)and has travelled over around the world living and breathing denim. This post is from his recent visit to the BBB Berlin Jeans Fair.Contact him on email here

    7. Denim Mills in USA – Struggling and Shutting Down. A review

      The fascinating world of Denim is briefly highlited on a quick Mill Tour.
      Fierce Middle East and Orient lower price on fabric and apparel manufacturing has forced some America Mills to shutdown.
      When you go into the Mills facility the characteristic good smell of cotton dominates.
      All Mills listed use Rope Dye process, will describe Open Yarn Dye process in some Puebla Mexico Mills.
      Wich one is better, well : Cone and all below will tell you Rope Dyeing is the Best, but others will say Open Yarn Dye its better, really both are good and by the fabric looks its impossible to tell wich Dye process was used.
      1.-Swiftgaley Yarn facility at Columbus Georgia represented the bloom of the Denim Mills in North America in the past Century, located in an old Downtown building, it was amazing how yarn was manufactured in different floor levels of the Old building, then truck carried to a Modern finish Plant nearby Downtown Columbus. Mill was shut a couple of years ago.
      2.-White Oak , Conedenim s flagship Mill in Greensboro N.C. it is an appropiate layout to produce Denim, it is impressive by all means: contrasting its antique selvedge looms, its museum and modern state of the art Denim manufacture and expert knowledge its people has gotten thru the years.
      3.-Mount Vernon Mills located in cute Trion Georgia, Denim Mill aside the Piece Died facility, impressive automated warehouse and truck loading, huge facility.
      With a first quality Lodge in the Mill courts to receive its distinguished visitors.
      4.-Avondale Mills, Eva Jane Plant in Sylacauga Alabama, another big Mill with a modern layout and state of the art Indigo Dye process.
      This is another Mill Company that struggled after the 2005 train derrailment and chlorine spill in Graniteville plant. Avondale finally shut was shut down.

      5.-ACG Mills -Lubbock Texas based :  located in Littlefield Texas. Mill thats setting a trend by acquiring Guatemala s giant jean operation: Koramsa now named Denimatrix
      This looks like a good move from ACG, still need to see if brotherhood brings prosperity.
      We all in the Denim world hope it does.

      jorgeThis is a guest post by Jorge Esparza of Mexico . He started on the Denim Jean manufacturing in 1995 in the Torreon Mexico area, once considered a very important Denim mfg.hub. With over 4 years on the Sew floor knowledge and 5 years dealing with Denim fabric issues Jorge has visited most major Mexico and USA mills for quality review.

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    8. Energie Spring/Summer 2009 Denim Collection

      Energie is a young trendy denim brand from Italy which places considerable value on non-conformity and freedom.Using finest fabrics and with focus on stylish washes, Energie has a collection of some finely created jeans.

      The Spring/Summer 2009 collection is also non-conformist with a lot of ‘Acid Washed- Grunge denim’ seen.  Focus is still on dark denims washed heavily ,bleached and given acid wash looks. There  seems to be an abscence of ripped, torn denim which is the flavour of the season with most of the brands.. See the 38 second video for some quick looks :

       

      Also Visit Our Special Page on Denim Collections