Denimandjeans | Global Trends, News and Reports | Worldwide

Category: Environment

  • CLOSED Sustainability Report Highlights

    CLOSED Sustainability Report Highlights

    Denim brands are increasingly looking for ways to decrease the environmental impact of their products. As part of their business strategies to protect the environment, many denim brands are focusing to adopt greener practices and techniques of producing jeans. They are conscious of the importance and need of building a sustainable future for the denim industry.

    One such brand that has come quite far in its sustainability journey is Closed – a German iconic denim retailer that has been around since 1978.

    About The Brand

    Marie and François Girbaud, two French fashion designers, created the renowned denim brand Closed in 1978. In the ’90s and 2000s, the duo had a big effect on hip-hop style with their distinctive take on denim silhouettes. The brand has been featured in songs and famous videos, like Kris Kross’ ‘Jump’, for its casual, stonewashed ensembles. It gained global popularity for its baggy denim designs thanks to endorsements from the hip-hop community.             

    The brand believes that sustainability is their key value to whatever they do. The brand has been progressively focusing on the environmental impacts of its products and has taken a number of steps to move ahead towards lowering the ramifications.

    CLOSED Sustainable Journey So Far

    Some of their latest steps towards the big goal included in their 2020 sustainability report :

    • The denim giant has just joined the Fair Wear Foundation, which will inspect the manufacturing facilities at regular intervals in the future — formally demonstrating to their consumers the great working conditions in which its production partners operate.
    • In collaboration with its denim mill Candiani, the company has expanded its eco-denim line A BETTER BLUE by launching the world’s first degradable stretch denim clothing made with the natural rubber yarn CorevaTM. A BETTER BLUE jeans are made using eco-friendly materials, low-impact dyeing techniques, and washing methods for resource conservation in Italy. So far, the company has manufactured 223,950 units of A BETTER BLUE things and claim that it has saved 6,882,870 litres of water, 649,455 kWh of electricity, and 77,262 kg of solid waste of chemicals (based on average savings compared to a pair of conventional Closed jeans).
    • To reduce its use of water, electricity, and chemicals even further, it has included eco-friendly innovations into its designs, such as outerwear made from 100% recycled materials coloured with plant dyes. The retailer is increasing the proportion of eco-materials.
    • Another important aspect in ensuring seamless manufacturing was the company’s short supply chains. This is a feature that has always been essential for the brand, as well as for environmental and quality concerns. An astounding 80% of our products are manufactured in Europe, near our key consumers. To reduce its environmental impact, the company has avoided flying materials or semi-finished clothes throughout the world. Its producers in Italy, Portugal, Romania, and Turkey typically work with European materials, whilst its Chinese partners primarily obtain materials from Asia, such as silk or technological textiles. To reduce emissions to a minimal, its clothes, footwear, and accessories are exclusively carried to warehouses by land or sea.
    • The company donates to climate protection projects to compensate for a part of unavoidable emissions. Its corporate offices and warehouses are already carbon-neutral. While they’re on the issue, they have some exciting news: beginning with the autumn 2021 collection, they will offset the CO2 emissions for all A BETTER BLUE jeans. They will progressively focus on eco-friendly measures and CO2 offsetting in the next years, with the goal of creating a totally climate-neutral supply chain.
    • Closed’s Code of Conduct, which is followed by all of its manufacturing partners, allows it to rely on an official letter that assures: no child labour, fair and statutory pay, compensated overtime, safe and sanitary working conditions, set working hours, and a maximum 48-hour work week. Every partner must sign the Code of Conduct twice a year.

    The Road Ahead

    The denim retailer is looking forward to bigger and better sustainability goals. The brand will provide PETA-approved vegan labeling for its items that do not include any animal-derived substances. They will be employing a new outerwear fabric composed of recycled nylon beginning with autumn 2021 collection. It is dyed with a plant-based dye that is environmentally friendly. ONIBEGIE is an eco-friendly dyeing method developed by its Japanese partners Komatsu Matere that upcycles onion peels, olives, and bamboo. By donating to eco-initiatives and offsetting its carbon emissions, its A BETTER BLUE jeans will bring climate-neutral items beginning with the winter 2021 collection. Additional certifications, declarations of purchase, and the provenance of the raw material, as well as animal welfare standards, are required for all yarns containing animal fibers beginning with the brand’s winter 2021 collection. In this collection, they will also include organic cashmere. It is also integrating a greater proportion of organic cotton and other natural fibers in its collections. As per the brand, 35% of its women’s and 47% of its men’s winter 2021 collections are eco-friendly, 41% of the women’s and 50% of the men’s denim are part of the eco-denim line A BETTER BLUE. The brand will also use recyclable paper for its hangtags.

    WHAT THE BRAND BELIEVES

    Since its inception, sustainability has played a critical part in Closed’s purpose. In the 1970s, the notion of “sustainable” was far from pervasive or widespread as it is now, and it was open to several interpretations. Closed has always represented respect for and a fair perspective of not just the environment, but also of everyone and everything with whom it works. Its declared goal was and continues to be long-term partnerships with all business colleagues, which is why the brand seeks for partners that share similar values and whom it can lay trust. Simply put, sustainability entails far more than this, it also entails using the planet’s resources as responsibly as possible.

    Timeless, the brand pays homage to its legendary past while also looking ahead, producing sustainable jeans for the coming years.

  • H&M’s Monki Joins Zalora: Unleashes the ‘Most’ Recycled Denim Collection Ever

    H&M’s Monki Joins Zalora: Unleashes the ‘Most’ Recycled Denim Collection Ever

    Monki joins Zalora

    H&M Group had a lot going on this week with its CEO and sustainability ambassador attending the Fashion Future Conference, its Monki Brand becoming a part of Zalora, and the launch of the world’s largest recycled denim collection ever, altogether.

    Monki, the company’s youth-oriented brand, is expanding its online presence throughout Southeast Asia. The brand currently has six storefronts in Malaysia and two in the Philippines, and the move onto a platform that is a major participant in online fashion retail in the area demonstrates that the company regards the market as vital. The launch also marks the brand’s first move to Singapore.

    “We have a strong following in south-east Asia, which makes us excited about expanding our online offer in this area together with Zalora. We can’t wait to welcome our new customers into the Monki world.” Says Jennie Dahlin Hansson, Managing Director, Monki

    Monki’s ranges on Zalora will showcase on-trend ensembles with conscious materials, inspired by Asian street style and Scandi fashion. New jeans styles in vibrant prints, all made from organic cotton, will be included.

    Monki will be available on Zalora in the Philippines up in late September, with Malaysia and Singapore following later this autumn.

    H&M’S FALL RECYCLED DENIM COLLECTION

    Monki joins Zalora

    The brand also announced its recycled denim collection for the fall season (which was worn by sustainability ambassador Maisie Williams for her virtual participation in a fashion future event). Baggy  jeans, loose straight leg jeans, trucker jackets, oversized overshirts, bucket hats, and shoppers make up H&M’s “Most Recycled Collection Ever.”

    Each apparel gets inspired by the laidback aesthetic seen in the 1990s. It’s crafted mainly from recycled metal zippers and trims and 100 % recycled fabrics, threads, labels, and pockets. Its washing technique has a minimal impact on the environment and is free of harmful chemicals. 

    The H&M Recycled Denim collection launches on 9 September 2021 with selected pieces in stores and the whole range online.

    INCORPORATING SUSTAINABILITY 

    Monki joins Zalora

    One of H&M’s greatest goals is to move to a circular production system, which entails reusing both production waste and collected clothes.

    Patchwork details and 90s denim washes ranging from vintage light blue, normcore mid-blues, dark vintage blues, vintage blacks, and cool grey, are featured in the new collection. It aims to highlight the possibilities of recycled materials and provide denim fans around the world with even more sustainable options. Each clothing is created entirely of recycled materials, including pre-consumer recycled cotton from industrial waste cuttings and post-consumer recycled cotton from collected garments, some with recycled polyester, and accessories made entirely of fabrics cut and re-used from production rejections. 

    FASHION’S NEW NORMAL 

    Monki joins Zalora

    During the Fashion Future Conference 2021, H&M CEO Helena Helmersson and sustainability ambassador Maisie Williams met virtually to discuss the future of fashion, specifically the post-pandemic road for the business. The talk focused on the fashion industry’s post-pandemic path forward, a future that will require imagination, creativity, technological innovation, and new business models to connect customers in innovative ways.

    Helmersson and Williams provided a glimpse into the future of sustainable fashion. They left on a positive and empowering note, focusing on practical solutions and reminding us that while there are physical limitations to what the planet can support, fashion can find a way to work within them.

    The duo also stated that sustainability is an ongoing challenge that requires influencers, companies, and governments to unite around a singular purpose. “Creating a truly sustainable business isn’t a one-off job. But, when we — influencers, companies, governments — come together around a common goal, we can do almost anything.” Said Helmersson.

    They also feel that “creativity and technology are key.” H&M’s new technology has provided the brand, whole different methods to interact with customers. A personal avatar that helps clients try on items in virtual fitting rooms is one excellent example that H&M Group developed in its internal innovation lab. Virtual fits could help enhance accessibility and reduce product returns, to bring another dimension to the shopping experience. Helmersson cited the company’s 3D body scanner and the Loop machine in Stockholm as examples of its innovation. Customers could transform unwanted garments into new fashion favorites, enabling them to see the textile-to-textile recycling process, which is generally kept behind the scenes.

    Earlier, the brand also launched its sustainability-linked bond which aims at sustainability-driven initiatives. The bond is linked to H&M Group meeting several sustainability targets, such as by 2025 reducing emissions from its operations by 20 percent. The brand is also committed to reducing absolute Scope 3 emissions from garment manufacturing, fabric production, upstream transport, and raw materials by 10 percent.

    Helmersson stated that the notion of sustainability is evolving. According to her expanding definitions of sustainability beyond materials, to include the people and relationships that go into creating the fashion we wear is an important part of the agenda that needs to be followed for fashion’s new normal.

    H&M believes that by going backward and reusing leftover fabrics, we can move forwards and create denim that’s kinder to the planet.  It quotes, “Remember, waste isn’t waste until you actually waste it.”  The brand grails to achieve sustainable growth that makes a positive difference to people and the planet.

  • Indigo Wonderland: Anthropologie’s Upcycled Denim

    Indigo Wonderland: Anthropologie’s Upcycled Denim

    WINDOW DISPLAYS

    Anthropologie

     American Clothing Retailer Anthropologie announced the release of Pilcro, a new inclusive-sizing denim collection. With one foot in the historical roots of denim production and the other in the future of planet-friendlier production methods, Pilcro offers style with a story. To exhibit their initiative, the brand devised window displays on their selected storefronts titled “Indigo Wonderland,” which invites people to step outside of their day-to-day chores and dive into a whimsical denim dreamscape. Select storefronts of the brand are all set to incorporate surreal, storybook-inspired elements into their facades including think larger-than-life toadstools, sweet-singing songbirds, and fabulous foxes. 

    Anthropologie

    This time the artists crafted their sculptural props of the window from community-sourced upcycled denim. Anthropologie’s Display Director Erika Lavinia told that their team took an autumnal idea and paired it with the notion that they could highlight Pilcro’s sustainability efforts. To accomplish this intention, invitations were sent to their staff and community to participate in the displays by donating used denim. These denim pieces were later used to create the elements of the forest.

    “Indigo Wonderland is based on the idea that the forest is composed of all these elements of nature, the flora and the fauna all working together. That’s when you get the beauty of something like a medley, or a symphony: The wind rustling through the leaves, the birds chirping, the squirrels running through. It’s all about the harmony that results.” said  Anthropologie Display Director Erika Lavinia

    One could easily see the seams, the pockets, the details that come from the original life of the denim itself in the upcycled one. The assortment highlighted the materiality of authentic, high-quality denim while emphasizing the planet-friendlier practices at the root of their newest Pilcro pairs. With a community-focused approach and an eco-conscious ethos at its core, the window transformations were unlike any other that the world has seen. The brand also invited its customers to engage with the folkloric fabrications themselves at its interactive installations in Chicago, Nashville, Devon Yard, Rockefeller Center, Newport Beach, and Chelsea Market shops.

    THE PILCRO DENIM COLLECTION

    Pilcro Collection


    The new only-at-Anthro collection from Pilcro features premium-quality denim crafted using more sustainable practices and materials, and the brand being thrilled to turn this cleaner, greener page. The brand strives to approach denim in its traditional manner, so it’s rooted in authentic, historical indigo.  It starts most of the design processes looking around the world for garments from the last 200 years. Anthropologie aims to translate beautiful vintage garments that wildly beat up from the 1950s into something that still has the soul but with Pilcro’s hallmarks of femininity.

    “While there’s no such thing as perfection, our philosophy is to try to let sustainable principles inform each little decision throughout the day. The key for us is to try everything and always be open.” Said Anthropologie’s Senior Designer Nick Hathaway who surveyed vintage garments to find inspiration for the new Pilcro collection. 

    Pilcro Collection

    Denim for Pilcro gets sourced from several mills. Among them are sustainability-minded Candiani in Italy and Orta Anadolu in Turkey. The production process for Pilcro uses either non-toxic or water-saving indigo-dying technology. Hathaway told that he is also a washing specialist. Hence, all of their denim washes are created on their canvas, and with their favorite factories, developing something truly unique.

     Beyond fabric and dye, however, Pilcro also points out the metal hardware on the garments and showcases another sustainability practice centering on metal. According to Hathway, electroplating hardware is typically a highly caustic and hugely detrimental process to the environment. It uses a lot of water, and it’s highly chemical-laden, so the runoff or the excess of that water can enter local ecosystems. To prevent this harm caused to the environment, the brand uses metal finishes that are either water-free or use no electroplating whatsoever and the bases of these metals are either recycled or recyclable.

    Pilcro Collection

    For some of the fits from the Pilcro collection,  the brand approached the denim itself from a range of avenues like organic cotton, recycled fibers, or recycled cotton blends. It also used a pocket fabric that’s partially recycled. Plus, it has significantly cut down our polyester usage and implemented indigo-dying technology that is either non-toxic or engineered to require less water.

    Anthropologie is working with Factory One Studio in Los Angeles to produce Pilcro. The denim range is available exclusively at Anthropologie and offers pieces in sizes 00 through 26.

     â€œIt’s a joy to be making jeans back in the US. Very few brands are doing it, and it’s cool.” Says Senior Designer Nick Hathaway

    The brand looks forward to experimenting with alternative fibers. It believes in hemp denim usage for its future collections. Hemp is a very coarse, stiff, and tough fiber. Traditionally, hemp needed to be ‘cottonized,’ or softened, to be comfortable to wear. That process consumes a huge amount of water and energy. Anthropologie has joined hands with French hemp-denim producers for using hemp that can be cottonized by nature. They believe this attempt would help lessen the impact caused on the environment.

    TAKEAWAY

    This fall’s Pilcro launch is distinctively Anthro, with the brand’s creative and design teams working together to make it a one-of-a-kind experience. By integrating handcrafted touches and thoughtful design flourishes into their artwork and displays, the brand empowers the consumers to see just where their imaginations can take them.

  • Levi’s x Naomi Osaka The Upcycled Denim Collection

    Levi’s x Naomi Osaka The Upcycled Denim Collection

    Consumer use and disposal account for up to 40% of the climate impact during the life cycle of a pair of jeans. Disposal is also a major issue across the industry, as over half of all garments made annually are burned or buried within one year. These prevailing circumstances are causing ecological concerns and thus need to change.

    Levi Strauss has emphasized this concern by prioritizing to educate consumers on how they can extend the life span of their clothing like washing jeans less often or by getting them repaired and reinforced. It informs on how and where they can donate and recycle anything they’re no longer wearing.

    LEVI’S X NAOMI OSAKA

    The brand claims that it is increasingly designing products that are suitable for true circularity with 100% recyclable materials from the outset.

    One such big move by the brand is its new collaborative denim collection with renowned tennis player Naomi Osaka. The American denim company has been around for centuries and a staple in wardrobes for just as long. But their collaboration with one of the highest-profile names in sports has given the established brand a turn on its head. It’s a winning move for the brand to bring onboard world number 2 tennis player Naomi Osaka, who is known as a fashion icon as well as a champion committed to fighting against all kinds of injustices.

    The denim assortment is a good look on an environmental front as well, as this more sustainable collection is based on the principle of upcycling which consists of making something new out of something old, and making it even better. The upcycled denim pieces foreground Naomi’s heritage as well as fashion sustainability. For Naomi, a key element to this collaboration was being able to work while also keeping climate concerns in mind.

    “The sustainability aspect was superb important to me,” she said, adding that she’s proud of the fact that each piece in the new collection is either recycled or repurposed from previous stock.

    HIGHLIGHTS OF THE COLLAB

    LEVI’S X NAOMI OSAKA

    Osaka was previously featured in Levi’s 501-day campaign alongside Jaden Smith, Hailey Bieber, Emma Chamberlain, Marcus Rashford, Barbie Ferreira, and Shai Gilgeous-Alexander, and is now joining the label to create the first collection of its kind.

     In this collection, there will be special details added to create a homage to Osaka’s Japanese heritage. The collection includes a denim kimono inspired by Naomi’s Japanese heritage, paired with a matching denim obi belt, as well as lace-up shorts made from an upcycled pair of men’s Levi’s jeans, crystal fringe shorts using vintage 501 shorts, and lastly a trucker jacket bustier crafted from reworked trucker hats. Inspired by DIY culture and extending the lives of pre-existing pieces, the collection is responsible and reflects Naomi’s style. Featuring four limited-edition pieces crafted from upcycled denim, the range uses pre-existing Levi’s garments to create a capsule with less impact on the environment.

    “I always loved wearing kimonos when I was a kid. So, to be able to do it in denim felt really different and a bit unexpected.” Says Naomi Osaka

    LEVI’S X NAOMI OSAKA

    Levi’s took many pieces from their upcycled denim such as men’s jeans and trucker jackets to create these pieces. This adds a great sustainable touch to the entire collection. Alternatively, Osaka also had the chance to be involved in the creation process alongside Levi’s design team which makes the collection a lot more personal and authentic to Osaka. Customers will get a sense of Osaka’s special style which is sporty yet feminine at the same time. The Naomi Osaka x Levi’s collection will be debuted on Aug. 24 on Levi’s app and in select Levi’s stores. The collection ranges from $150 to $380.

    Levi’s said that Osaka is “a powerful young voice in the world of sports whose authenticity and willingness to stand up for important causes has helped inspire millions. In a very short time, she has become not only an iconic athlete but a true ambassador for social change.”

    LEVI’S ATTEMPT TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY

    Levi’s works with Blue Jeans Go Green in the U.S. and Canada, and other organizations in different countries to collect used clothing through which 132,899 discarded jeans were transformed into building insulation, saving 66 tons of waste from landfills. It is increasingly designing products that are suitable for true circularity.

    The brand has also offered Levi’s Authorized Vintage collection that consists of the most authentic, everlasting vintage pre-owned or restored items on the market. Authorized Vintage means more to the brand than a just fashion-forward collective addition. The upcycling of these pre-worn pieces exemplify conscious consumption and its commitment to long-term and sustainable manufacturing practices. In addition to this, all stores have started using 100% post-consumer waste stock for their print materials. Its new mannequins are made from recycled base stock that blends both post-industrial and post-consumer materials. Plus it is introducing several new initiatives regularly to stress on its own mission of environmental sustainability .

  • Pacsun’s New Fall Collection: Curating Season’s Must-Haves

    Pacsun’s New Fall Collection: Curating Season’s Must-Haves

    With the e-retail yielding a high surplus and people using mobile devices to make purchases, it’s no surprise that Gen Z is a driving force of these online shopping trends. More specifically, Gen Z is using social media to influence their online shopping habits. One brand, in particular, has seen massive growth growing their Gen Z community digitally. Pacsun grossed over $700 million in sales last year with 85% of its customers falling under Gen Z. It comes as no surprise as the brand has found creative ways to interact with its audience digitally and in person.

    ABOUT THE BRAND

    Pacsun's Pre-Fall Collection

    Pacsun is a leading specialty retailer offering a cross-section of emerging brands and trending fashion through the lens of Los Angeles. Throughout the contemporary, streetwear and active lifestyle markets, the retailer partnered with the best brands including Russell Athletic, North Face, Adidas, Champion, Vans, Fear of God, Playboy, Guess, and J. Galt to constantly offer curated collections, rare products, and collaborations. The company has 375 stores nationwide with multiple new store locations opening in 2021.

    PACSUN’S PRE-FALL CAMPAIGN 2021

    Pacsun's Pre-Fall Collection

    Their most recent Pre-Fall 2021 campaign featured TikTok star, actress, and singer Jules LeBlanc by highlighting top back-to-school styles and the season’s must-haves through a digital experience shot. The campaign was shot and launched in Zion National Park in Utah, and the theme of escapism and hitting the road will continue to be highlighted through the season by Pacsun’s community, including store teams and consumers, through in-store activations and installations and social media efforts.

    “We wanted to take our consumers on a journey and give them an escape as adventure travel is at the top of most Gen Zers to-do list and we want to be with them on this journey.” Says Brie Olson, President of Pacsun. 

    The brand is making this Pre-Fall 2021 collection memorable with new styles from its best-selling category, denim, which is on an upward trend currently in the market and selling out to consumers, such as the super-popular Pacsun boyfriend jeans, all new high rise straight vintage, Dad fit and 90’s inspired, along with Fleece, LA Hearts Active and Gender-Neutral items for everyday looks for everyone.

    Pacsun will curate a Neighborhood Guide Instagram series to allow consumers to share a more personal experience that involves a community connection. The Gen Z retailer wants to virtually share fun and safe things to do in unique locations with the launch of Pacsun’s “5 Things To Do In blank.” content series.

     Pacsun will also inspire consumers to live and show their best life while in Pacsun Fall Denim, using the hashtag #Pacdenim and the launch of the “Get Your blank On” social initiative, which will be led by Jules. In addition, the brand has planned for a Snapchat activation to accompany the adventure experience through Zion. This activation will allow consumers to engage virtually and shop.

     WHAT’S IN FOR THE NEW DROP?

    Pacsun's New Drop
    Pacsun's New Drop

    Everyone needs a T-shirt to fit any mood and PacSun is providing this with a new assortment of graphic tops. The latest drops from the retailer exhibit an extensive lineup of bold apparel with artwork from brands ranging from Budweiser and Playboy to Mitchell & Ness. To create a much easier shopping experience, the brand has launched a graphic quiz for shoppers to find the right shirt to match their style. Other T-shirt options at PacSun include elevated basic T-shirts in a variety of stylish colors that can go with any look. PacSun is also hauling a wide array of jeans and pants to its site to complement the fresh graphic tees. The selection includes fits like loose, cargo, and slim taper in addition to different washes, making certain that every type of style is accounted for.

     The brand rounds out the new arrivals with accessories like refreshed NBA team-inspired backpacks from Mitchell & Ness and a large range of basics from the A$AP Worldwide x Russell Athletic collaboration. Offering an immersive edge to new drops and collections, PacSun also introduced live streaming shopping events to its website.  A few days back, the youth retailer provided a first look at a footwear collaboration between Vans and A$AP Worldwide. For the A$AP Worldwide x Vans sneaker launch event, PacSun broadcasted from its Soho store in New York. Making sure to engage fans in the conversation, viewers were able to comment and ask questions before shopping for sneakers that they see in real-time, making for a truly interactive environment. Featuring reflective elements, the A$AP Worldwide x Vans sneaker’s key details were discussed during the streaming event.

    “We were thrilled that Pacsun’s guest artistic director A$AP Rocky helped celebrate our latest merch drop from A$AP worldwide x Vans and Russell Athletic with an intimate performance of his new music in our Soho flagship store, surrounded by Pacsun customers and friends in Rocky’s hometown of New York City,” said Brie Olson, President of Pacsun.

    PACSUN’S SUSTAINABILITY COLLECTION

    Pacsun Eco

    Amongst the new fall collection jeans, PacSun has dropped eco-friendly versions that use recycled fabrics, making for a more conscious addition to outfit rotation. 

    PacSun’s sustainability collection is wholly focused on creating sustainable, eco-friendly products that are made from a blend of recycled and organic materials.

    The brand effortlessly and meaningfully reduces consumer’s carbon footprint.  It follows the notion which says,  “you can be on-trend, lookin’ good, and doing your part to keep the planet thriving.”

     Its curated collection is comprised of multiple brands that have dedicated their resources to creating crafted, unique, and in-demand products in a sustainable and eco-friendly way. From T-shirts and swim trunks to tank tops and ankle socks, this collection is packed with stellar-looking must-haves that one can feel good about. Made for men and women, this collection seamlessly merges functional sustainability with unmatched comfort, effortless style, and diverse selection. Ultimately, PacSun has created a one-stop-shop for all things sustainable and fashionable.

    CONCLUSION

    As Pacsun continues to find innovative ways to connect and customize with their consumer and mark digital firsts in their demographic,  streaming events with new fashion launches will allow the brand to continue broadening its consumer’s engagement. The brand, which is already a favorite for teens and young adults, is positioned to continue to scale digitally and globally in the coming years.

  • Jeans Redesign–An Evaluation On Recycled Content Commitments

    Jeans Redesign–An Evaluation On Recycled Content Commitments

    Jeans Redesign project by Make Fashion Ciruclar initiative of Ellen Macarthur Foundation provides a launch pad to ensure all clothing is made from safe and renewable materials, and all clothing items are used more and made to be made again. Using jeans as a starting point, Make Fashion Circular aims to initiate actions that contribute to the reduction of waste and pollution, and support the protection of natural resources by establishing minimum requirements which are set out in the form of Guidelines. They have brought together over 80 experts in jeans production from across academia, brands, retailers, manufacturing, collectors, sorters, and NGOs to define collectively what good looks like for the future of jeans. From this shared vision a set of guidelines has emerged that establish ambitious steps for jeans manufacturing and production.  The guidelines provide minimum requirements for jeans on durability, material heath, recyclability, and traceability. Out of these four aspects, we focus on Recyclability in this article .

    Recyclability

    Recyclability focuses on re-use and re-cycling of components. For this :

    • Jeans should be made with a minimum of 98% cellulose based fibres by weight : This subsection applies to all organisations (brands, retailers, garment manufacturers, and fabric mills)
    • Metal rivets should be designed out , or reduced to a minimum : This subsection only applies to brands, retailers, and garment manufacturers
    • Any additional material added to the jeans , should be easy to disassemble : This subsection applies to all organisations (brands, retailers, garment manufacturers, and fabric mills)

    All the participants have to voluntarily declare their adherence to these 3 points in writing .
    However, there is one more Optional Guideline in RECYCLABILITY which is not mandatory and only those participants who are voluntarily wanting to declare may do so . This is regarding their usage of Pre/ Post Consumer Recycled content and their commitments to use them . Usage of recycled fibers and materials not only ensures that we have less wastage but also reduced pressure on mother earth to produce more  . It is one of the most important aspect of sustainability .

    We went deeper into this optional requirement from the Jeans Redesign September 2020 report  to see what brands, manufacturers and fabric mills are committing themselves to for using recycled components. Naturally , we did not expect participants to obligate themselves to ambitious goals as using recycled materials is dependent on so many factors. Brands are the driving force for this activity and manufacturers and mills follow. However, there are visionary companies who wish to take this on their own accord and move forward . Larger the company, more complex are the operations are for them and understandably more difficult to commit. However, it would be a good idea to check out which brands, manufacturers and mills have taken the step forward on their own . We also focused on MINIMUM commitments and not MAXIMUM. Some of the participants displayed their % wise goals of maximum usage of recycled content  which does not really make any sense as minimum commitment could still be zero. Eg Guess committed to a maximum of 30% Recycled content besides many others who mentioned their commitments in similar way. We ignored those companies in the list below :

    Brands

    Out of 28 brands who showed in this report as participants, expectedly there were no large retailers like H&M, Inditex, Gap etc. Only smaller brands like Boyish Jeans , Mud Jeans, HNST etc were there among the 5 brands that committed themselves to certain targets. Boyish jeans made a huge obligation of using 43% Pre or Post consumer recycled content which is very  high by any standard. Mud jeans also stood apart with their 23% minimum recycled content usage declaration. HNST at 21% and Organic Basics at 21% and 10% were also frontrunners in this regard.

    Recycled Content Brands - Jeans Redesign

    Garment Manufacturers

    Garment manufacturing is a totally different ball game as the companies are dependent on the orders from the brands and it is not easy for them to make commitments on recycled content in fabrics. The fabrics are normally nominated by the brands and the manufacturer simply complies with the order. However, there are companies who have been working with visionary brands and have themselves realized the importance of using recycled fibers. Based on their own vision and their brands’ requirements , some of the large groups have committed themselves to minimum usage of recycled content in the fabrics that they use. Hirdaramani group of Sri Lanka stands out with a voluntarily declaration of using minimum 10% recycled content in the fabrics they use. Similarly Arvind denim from India, AGI denim , Soorty and DCC  from Pakistan, Kipas from Turkey and others have obligated themselves to use minimum 5% recycled fibers.

    GARMENT MANUFACTURERS - RECYCLABILITY JEANS REDESIGN

     

    Fabric Mills

    Out of the 22 fabric mills who are members in the aforesaid Ellen Macarthur report,  it is encouraging to see that 10 mills have shared their commitments on recycled fibers. Out of these mills, DNM Textile from Egypt stood at the top mentioning that would be using at least 20% post consumer recycled content in their fabrics. House of Gold mentions that they are already using 10% pre consumer content and would look for a higher target of 50% pre consumer recycled content in all the fabrics that they will produce. We have 8 other companies from China, Pakistan and India who have given a target of using 5% Post Consumer content in their fabrics .

    FABRIC MILLS- RECYCLABILITY JEANS REDESIGN

    Jeans Redesign neither  conducts any audit of the declared figures nor does it take any warranty to the accuracy of the reported data. Hence all information mentioned is self reported and self audited by participants. Inspite of this , it is heartening to note that the major corporates are coming forward to make voluntary commitments . These declarations made at the highest executive level does prompts a whole company to move in the direction of their accomplishment and sets in motion the peer pressure for others . We hope that we shall be , in near future, looking at more deeper resolves from major retailers who are the prime movers in the supply chain and the impact of their commitments will be felt across the industry.

    Check out the full  Sept’20 report by ELLEN MACARTHUR FOUNDATION from which the above article has been created. 

  • Arvind X Textile Genesis Traceability Solution

    Arvind X Textile Genesis Traceability Solution

    Recognizing the urgent need for Transparency across the denim supply chain , backed by a credible Traceability mechanism, Arvind denim recently joined hands with TEXTILE GENESIS™Â  – a pioneering start up in “Digital track & trace” space. Arvind is probably the most well known textile group and most diversified as well. Its denim division , which is one of the largest globally and caters to most of the top retailers and brands , has always been ahead of the curve while adopting new technologies and solutions which can add value to their and their partners’ businesses. Sustainability has  been a mission for the company and it has undertaken various initiatives for water, energy and chemical conservations, including tieups with global brands like Gap for making them more effective.

    Arvind X Textile Genesis

    The new tie-up with Textile Genesis will enable the company to create digital “Fibercoins™â€ for their sustainable collections and which allow  brand and retailers full value chain traceability and visibility along with  ESG (environmental, social and governance) credentials of the Supply Chain Partners from fiber-origin to retail. The Textile Genesis platform has won innovation awards & recognition in the industry from H&M Foundation, Accenture and Fashion for Good.

    Aamir Akhtar , CEO of Arvind Denim mentions about the push from customers :

    “There is a clear feedback from consumers that they are looking for transparency in supply chains. They are wary of buying products made from raw materials that originate in conflict zones. This is the reason we have decided to partner  with Textile Genesis to offer block chain based traceability in our denims.”

    Arvind X Textile Genesis

    Why Textile Genesis

    Textile Genesis is an award winning startup which creates traceability for all sustainable fibers – natural, man-made and recycled .

    • Cotton fibres – 15-20% of global cotton supply is covered by them with leading recycled cotton producers on board.
    • Cellulosic fibres – 50% of viscose and 80% of lyocell tracked by TG. Long term commitments with Lenzing.
    • Top 10 recycled polyester players on TG platform
    • Long term partnership with #1 wool & cashmere producer – Schneider group

    How it works

    The fibercoins issued at various stages of manufacturing will be visible to the brands and retails across the value chain, enabling them to trace how and from where the materials are being used.

    “As this is a block chain based solution , Fibrecoins will be issued at the origin – for eg ginneries for cotton; production plants for MMF etc. these Fiber coins will get transferred right thru the supply chain and will be visible virtually to all brands as well their customers “ – says Aamir Akhtar

    End to end traceability of  Arvind’s product offerings will be visible on TG platform including all stages

    Arvind X Textile Genesis

    Addition of any sustainability , transparency and traceability solutions , the costs are bound to increase . On being asked if they would be able to pass on the same to the buyers, Aamir Akhtar  mentioned that if the buyers find value in the new initiative, they will surely be open to pay for it.

    We were also wondering if Arvind would limit this traceability to only their sustainable denims or extend it to other products . Aamir was sure that it is going to be taken forward :

    “This initiative would be expanded to the products from other divisions of Arvind Limited. Even in its current form, this traceability is not limited to raw materials. It includes traceability of other inputs like recycled water, green energy, Higg Score etc”

    Arvind X Textile Genesis

    On the whole, a great initiative and a need of the times. As we get more and more transparent and allow easy traceability , the brands will be able to give better information to their customers enabling them to take informed purchase decisions , giving a great boost to sustainability.

  • Sustainability. The Next Big Thing In Denim.

    Sustainability. The Next Big Thing In Denim.

    Sponsored article – This article has been written by Coats team and is reproduced here at D&J on their behalf.

    “With over 4.5 billion pairs of jeans produced worldwide every year, denim is one of the planet’s most popular clothing choices. But it has a serious image problem when it comes to the environment. Here at Coats, we’re working with innovators, manufacturers and brands to change all that.

    Denim may look good, but it’s not great for the planet. Take water consumption. On average, 10,000 litres of this precious resource goes into making one pair of jeans – firstly, in growing the cotton, and secondly in the seriously labour-intensive processes required for dyeing, stonewashing, and distressing.

    They say meat’s bad for you. Well, it takes up to 10,000 litres of water to make a single pair of jeans, compared with 2,400 litres for a burger.

    (Talking of ‘distressing’, did you know that 16% of insecticides & 6.8% of herbicides used worldwide are for cotton? That harmful chemicals are used for dyeing? Or that processes like sandblasting can cause breathing problems if you don’t take protective measures?)

    Real action, not greenwash

    So that’s the problem – and it’s not just an environmental one. If consumers don’t see that brands are making efforts to embrace sustainability, they’ll choose ones that do. The buck really does stop here.

    That’s why Coats is working with our customers to champion sustainability and the circular economy. We help find ways to waste less, while reusing and recycling more. We also look for alternatives to chemical and synthetic dyeing and bleaching – like foam dyeing, natural bio indigo dye, and water-efficient fabric dyeing machinery.

    Coats has invested in a revolutionary waterless digital dyeing start-up called Twine. While It’s not yet suitable for bulk production, we need to give initiatives like this all the support we can.

    Naturally, a way to save even more water is in washing. Lasering, ozone, eflow and using bio-based enzymes are all excellent alternatives – and, as thread makers, we need to make sure our products can withstand these new processes.

    Sustainable solutions for the circular economy

    As the industry starts looking for alternatives to cotton, we at Coats have begun experimenting with yarns that use more sustainable hemp and soybean.

    Going one step further, our 100% recycled EcoVerde range of threads is made up of old PET plastic bottles – which rescues them from the rubbish tip and cuts CO2 emissions too. So that really is a win-win.

    By 2024, we aim to offer EcoVerde versions of all our premium threads. But we’re far from finished. May 2021 saw the launch of biodegradable and compostable EcoRegen. This brand-new thread is made from 100% lyocell, a renewable fibre derived from wood pulp sourced from sustainably managed forests. Also in the pipeline is EcoCycle, a water-dissolvable thread that makes reusing and recycling end-of-life garments even easier.

    There’s been a lot of progress, but we still have a long way to go. Coats is supporting the drive to sustainability and circularity through investment in research and development. Our Innovation Hubs are home to some truly astonishing developments. So, we won’t just look good. We’ll be doing good – and feeling good about it too.

    Join us on the 4th August, for a dedicated CoatsCast session on the future of denim- features guest speaker Danielle Elsener (Founder of Decode) Click now to register: https://bit.ly/3yTgxe7

  • Bast Recast – A Q&A With Naveena , Lenzing & Endrime

    Bast Recast – A Q&A With Naveena , Lenzing & Endrime


    In this closely knit world brought closer by the pandemic, ‘collaboration’ has become the buzzword. Companies and people who are already good in their fields can do something excellent together. This approach is even more important in the denim industry where innovations are happening at a rapid pace across various segments and there is a great need for talent to come together and synergize to achieve bigger goals.

    Recently such a collaboration took place between various companies :

    • Naveena Denim – NDL, Pakistan
    • Lenzing Corp, Austria
    • Endrime Studio, UK
    • Jeanologia, Spain
    • Officina+39, Italy
    • Warp-Face, UK
    • Crafil, Portugal

    It was coming together of some important players who have been very active in the industry’s sustainability space. Their collaboration was, as expected, focused on creating some environment-friendly denim. However, there is much more to the BAST RECAST collection than being a sustainable one. It was a completely designed collection that brought out the marriage of vintage denim aesthetics with modern technology and some great mix of sustainable fibers like Lenzing’s Tencel, Refibra, and Modal along with Hemp. In all 9 fabrics were produced under this collection at NDL and 18 garments were designed by Endrime Studio during the lockdown period at their UK studio. Jeanologia made a great value addition by giving some very authentic vintage washed looks using their eco-technologies.

    Bast Recast

    We spoke to Rashid Iqbal from Naveena Denim besides Michael Kininmonth from Lenzing and Mohsin from Endrime Studio to delve deeper and find out what made this collection tick!

    1. Bast Recast looks like a very good combination of technology, sustainability, and vintage aesthetics. What made you think of such a project?

    Rashid Iqbal:

    Yes, bast recast is an exclusive collection that we are proud of, it took around one year for all the thought process before launching this unique collection that adds a modern soft hand feel to the old-school vintage denim. Bast Recast is a sustainable denim line that has been developed using a mix of Tencel, Lyocell, Wet Spun, and Cottonized hemp.

    Mohsin

    My company ENDRIME® was brought on at the start of the project together with Naveena Denim LTD. Michael Kininmonth (from Lenzing) wanted to design a capsule collection of 4 to 5 styles using the latest Hemp and TENCEL™ Lyocell technologies. I had been telling many denim mills to start using hemp and have been personally educating myself and others about hemp – I did many denim webinars on the history of hemp before this project started, so I was excited to do this collection.

    The trust we were given, to not only design and manage the collection, but also to design the fabrics alongside NDL , was very encouraging. I and Sadia Rafique who co-designed the collection knew it was a special project from the beginning.

    Bast Recast

    2. You all are some great partners who came together for the development of this collection. It must have made a big difference to the whole project.

    Rashid:

    It feels great when you have like-minded partners on board who share the same vision and cares for nature as we do. This project has garnered a lot of attention due to its sustainability aspect and added maximum value to redefine the way we look at denim.

    Michael:

    Even with the best ideas, best technology, or best product you are still reliant on supply chain partners. No company has all the skills required. The biggest potential partner might not be the best one. Many companies aim to collaborate with their largest suppliers or customers because they assume that the greatest value is to be found there. In many cases, however, this turns out not to be true. Collaboration may be of more interest to a smaller partner, which might invest more time and effort in the project than a very large one that is already juggling dozens of similar initiatives.

    3. Hemp has been Naveena’s favorite fiber for some time. But blending this bast fiber (which is a bit rough) with other sustainable fibers like Refibra and Tencel (which are much softer) must have been a challenge. How has your overall experience been in this journey for the same?

    Rashid :

    It was quite a challenging experience while blending during the spinning stage, as it was not so easy to have homogenous blending of HEMP, COTTON & TENCEL. We all know that HEMP is known as the oldest fiber so our aim from the beginning was to develop fabrics that had both the authentic hemp look complimented by a modern hand-feel, so we blended HEMP with Tencel, Refibra & Modal to make a low impact/ environmentally-safe denim.

    Michael:

    The entrance of TENCEL into the market in the early 1990s was accompanied by a strong environmental story, superior fiber properties, and lots of marketing hype.

    In hemp, I saw a parallel to what TENCEL faced almost 30 years ago versus where hemp is today in the textile apparel industry. There is no economy of scale, a lack of established supply chains, some agricultural challenges, some technological barriers, and many urban myths to dispel.

    Traditional wet-spun hemp still provides many challenges and requires specialist yarn spinners whereas cottonized hemp as its name implies can be spun and blended on traditional short-staple systems. In reality, the specifications of TENCEL™ fibers, length, and thickness can be adjusted to be compatible with all kinds of fibers.

    Bast Recast

    4. Bast Recast has been inspired by 1840s aesthetics and the constructions, styling, and designing reflect the same with duck canvases, workwear silhouettes, etc. Tell us more about it.

    Mohsin :

    This Project has certainly been a huge career highlight for ENDRIME®️ – I’ve been researching the old tailoring pre-dating 1870s jeans… so yes I was looking at the 1840s period.

    I ended up designing 7 garments that were period correct to the 1870s-90s period – in construction and fit – In fact, most of the collection does not even have belt loops and no overlocking… each garment is super clean in construction – in some ways made even better than the period. I added a continuous one-piece fly in all styles and even added it in the pullover jumper style – making it better than the original.

    In total every garment had 2 or 3 versions of each garment – I’m most proud of the indigo duck canvas and the 2/1 fabrics. In this period duck and lightweight fabrics were everywhere, so I pushed NDL to make these types of fabrics 1st, especially as you don’t see many lightweight hemp fabrics, so I knew it was challenging for NDL . I made a wish list of fabrics they made every variant I asked for plus more. But every single fabric NDL made was breathtaking.

    5. Eco-friendly fibers, washes, and processes must have added greatly to the sustainability credentials of this collection. How do you think can a brand compare its relative impact and strength vs other products of yours or competitors’?

    Rashid:

    Our bast recast collection is a sustainable wardrobe capsule series. I can proudly say that all the articles in this collection right from the fiber to the finished garment are sustainable to call it a real sustainable. We have achieved a low EIM Score with the help of Jeanologia™, made hangtags from the offcuts of the Tencel™ Lyocell and hemp denim fabrics by WARPFACE™, used sustainable dye stuff from Officina+39™ and used 100% biodegradable threads by CRAFIL™.

    Mohsin

    I think going forward, we all might be designing in this way. I don’t think designing sustainability is a trend, I know many would look at this collection, so wanted to go all out. From the fabric construction to the garments, and of course sustainability washing and finishing the collection. when it came to branding, trims, and hang tags we just followed the same philosophy . I was most proud giving Duncan from warp face all my leftover cuttings then a few weeks later seeing the denim TENCEL™️ X HEMP paper from all my waste. Of course, we could have gone a step further and made zero-waste patterns, but I guess that for another project, small steps.

    6. Have you documented all the processes from patterns to washing in case a brand loves your collection (which I believe many would) and wants to replicate the same?

    Rashid :

    Absolutely! We have all the details and recipes that a customer needs. Every detail in this development has been locked during the thought process.

    Michael:

    We would be more than happy to share our knowledge and know-how if a brand was serious about creating a collection. Such collections aim to stimulate such activity in the industry.

    Mohsin :

    Yes for my entire 20-year career I have never been precious of my work. I love giving away knowledge, I hate it when others don’t share, it was important we did the project in this way and yes the collection was designed to inspire others and most brands don’t lead or take risks, so at least the way, we have already developed the fabrics and done the washes and shown how circular a collection can be, it’s certainly harder but far more rewarding.

    7. One of the dilemmas the mills face is that the development of fundamentally strong sustainable products entails higher costs. Do you find retailers and brands more receptive and understanding of the same recently?

    Rashid :

    Yes definitely! We got a massive response since this capsule collection launched. Many customers and brands have reached out to us from all over the world and want to know more about Bast Recast. Since the pandemic hit us, we all are looking out for ways to be more sustainable and transparent in our developments and the brands are showing a keen interest in it.

    Michael:

    I sense that the pandemic has finally changed attitudes. Supply chain industry partners such as chemicals and machinery are also reporting the same. Greenwashing has been a blight on our industry and it reflects badly on all of us, regardless of the progress we have made. It has allowed brands and retailers to gain kudos on the back of marketing, not merit.

    Mohsin:

    Most brands I have spoken to want to use hemp and overall develop more sustainably especially in the fabrics and washes they select. But there are drawbacks, we used TENCEL™️ thread made by Crafil – it was perfect no issues, and an amazing achievement, but it’s made and designed to be used on sustainable washing like laser and ozone. The moment you use pp spray and other harsh chemicals it becomes weak. So many designers and product developers think sustainable options can work for everything. They can’t when you design with sustainable ways you need to follow through everything else. It means washing less also. If more people select sustainable options like TENCEL™️ X HEMP and ask to use green chemicals and treatments costs will reduce.

    8. Can we expect to see more sustainable collections and initiatives from Naveena in the near future?

    Rashid:

    Yes, absolutely! We have already started working on SS-23 developments and many interesting projects are on the way. STAY TUNED!

    Note: 3D Animations, Designed and Created by ENDRIME®️ / Mohsin Sajid + Paras Gupta for TENCEL™️ / CARVED IN BLUE®️ – BAST RECAST PROJECT

  • MARIE CLAIRE UK SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS 2021: FASHION WINNERS

    MARIE CLAIRE UK SUSTAINABILITY AWARDS 2021: FASHION WINNERS

    Sustainable fashion is intended towards better and bigger ecological integrity. The rise of popular sustainable clothing brands is strong evidence that there is greater awareness of environmental degradations, their reasons, and possible solutions by apparel makers.

    To acknowledge this effort, fashion brands were awarded in the first-ever Marie Claire UK Sustainability Awards 2021. Judged by a panel of over 40 of the world’s leading experts in sustainability, the awards beamed limelight on the achievements of a diverse range of industries to show the positive impact that different types of brands and businesses can have on the environment.

    These fashion innovators rightly affirm to the world that fashion can be incorporated without causing harm to our planet.

    Here’s a glance at all the Sustainability fashion winners.

    1.BEST SUSTAINABLE JEANS

    Winner: unspun

    The brand preludes the next generation denim by providing first of its kind custom-fitted denim collection with the use of AI and 3D modeling.

    The made-to-measure concept of the jeans helps the brand cut out excess waste thus reducing the industry’s emissions by 30 %. The brand hopes to reduce these emissions further to 20% through long-term committed circularity.

    Unspun jeans are made from 100 % organic cotton and are easily recyclable. The ‘out of the box ’ operating scenario of the brand makes it the future of sustainable denim fashion.

     â€œunspun jeans are custom-made to order, meaning that not only are they hugely inclusive – they use a 3D body scan to ensure jeans fit your body – but they cut waste, as no pair is created without a home.” Says MC‘s Digital Fashion Editor Penny Goldstone.

    2.Best for Carbon Footprint

    Winner: Allbirds

    Allbirds believes that the environmental crisis can’t be tackled by a single brand alone rather it requires the consolidated efforts of everyone in the fashion industry.  In 2019, the brand achieved complete carbon neutrality. This was made possible by following a three-step agenda: measuring carbon impact, reducing and replacing it with natural alternative material and at last spurring out whatever is left through verified emission reduction projects.

    Allbirds became the first fashion brand to have labeled carbon footprints for its products. The brand also open-sourced its carbon footprints tech via FreeTheFootprint.com which is freely accessible by other fashion brands too.

    “The integrity of this work is clear and exemplary, and the sharing of methodology to encourage others is a great practice too,” says Dilys Williams, Director of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion.

    3.Best Ethical Brand

    Winner: Birdsong

    The UK-based fashion brand, Birdsong operates on the ideology of empowering women and creating fashion that is inclusive, dignified, and transformative for local economies. 80% of the garment workers employed by the brand are women who are talented migrants, refugees, and survivors of domestic abuse. It is the only brand in the UK that nurtures local communities and marginalized women. Despite incurring constant loss in sales due to pandemic, the brand’s sustainable impact was consistent and unchangeable. To manage their ecological impact, the brand produces clothes only after the client’s order.

    “Instead of outsourcing work to sweatshops, the brand works with migrant and refugee women, and survivors of domestic abuse in a notoriously poor area. All orders are packed by adults with learning disabilities in Camden, providing vital employment to those in need.”  Says Penny Goldstone, Digital Fashion Editor at Marie Claire.

    4.Best Progress Towards Circularity

    Winner: Baukjen

    The main aim of the brand is to disrupt the fast fashion industry. Baukjen’s 92 percent of products are made from fibre sources that are both natural and biodegradable. Organic cotton is widely used and synthetic fibres are curtailed to the usage of about 10 percent only. The brand also works on a zero-waste approach and recycles 90 percent of its textile waste. Recycled garments are also sent for charitable purposes. Currently, it is working on digital traceability of garments, enabling customers to trace their product’s journey from design to material.

    5.Best Re-commerce

    Winner: Thrift+

    Thrift+ is a second-hand clothing platform that ensures clothes are not discarded but resold. The brand processes more than 300,000 clothing items each month and displays around 100,000 items on its site at any time. The platform makes reselling clothes a trouble-free process by three major steps- sellers have to order an eco-friendly bio-plastic thrift bag, fill it up and return it for free. Since its launch in 2017, the brand has diverted more than 150,000 clothes from ending up in landfills.

    5.Best Rental Brand – Womenswear

    Winner: Rotaro

    Rotaro is a cult label fashion rental company that disrupts the UK fashion landscape by making fashion more circular to the consumers. The brand focuses on extending the lifespan of garments, mobilizing unsold stock, gaining revenue, and reaching a new audience. Sustainability is foundational to everything that the brand delivers. To lower its impact on the environment, it works with a carbon-neutral delivery partner, uses zero-waste reusable garment bags, and promises to plant a tree for every rental supplied.

     “Rotaro’s offering has great potential to invoke behavior change, given its focus on culturally relevant fashion and its eye for brands. I see the brand attracting fashion enthusiasts who are not already subscribed to a ‘responsible fashion mindset’.” Says Sustainability Awards judge Emma Slade Edmondson.

    6.Best Rental Brand – Kids wear

    Winner: thelittleloop

    thelittleloop is the UK’s first rental marketplace for kids’ clothing that encourages parents to adopt clothing as an everyday lifestyle choice. The brand has revolutionized the conventional shopping experience by starting its business with reusable mailing bags and then turning them into a full-fledged re-sale platform.  Altogether, it accomplishes sustainability, convenience, style, and value to help both parents and the planet.

     The Sustainability Awards judges were highly impressed with thelittleloop’s innovative and easy solution to the often-overlooked problem of fast-fashion kidswear.

    7.Best Sustainable Fabric

    Winner: SPINNOVA

    SPINNOVA incorporates a ground-breaking way of making textile fibre without using harmful chemicals. SPINNOVA takes cellulose, “nature’s most brilliant building material” and aligns it in an impeccable way to make a soft textile fibre that can be as warm as wool. This ideology of the brand is inspired by how spiders weave their webs. This biodegradable fibre does not emit any microplastics and can be recycled repeatedly without losing its strength. The brand aims at compostability and biodegradability, thus optimizing the maximum usage of plant-based inputs in its fabric.

    8.Best Sustainable High Street Brand

    Winner: [R E S E T]

    [R E S E T] emphasizes inclusive clothing culture and opposes mainstream fashion notoriety. It helps people with disabilities gain confidence and independence by making clothes with features, designs, prints, and colors to feel comfortably fashioned. Directed towards the convergence between style and accessibility, the brand seeks to become a voice for the differently-abled on the high street.

    “[R E S E T] is doing the important work of bringing accessibility and inclusivity into the fashion industry. Its innovative design thinking shows how clothing can actively improve lives by providing differently-abled people with clothes that best support their needs, as well as with an avenue for self-expression.” Says Sustainability Awards judges Noëlla Coursaris Musunka.

    These fashion winners not only surpass the expectations of the Sustainability awards but also hold a victory at establishing a better tomorrow in the fashion industry. The brands give us a glance at a fashion that is guilt-free and ecologically thoughtful. Fashion brands and even Consumers need to think about how their purchase affects the environment, the lifecycle of their garment, and how to invest in clothes that last longer. Sustainability is a long shot and thus demands collaborative efforts of both brands and conscious consumers.

  • Madewell Platform For Second Hand Clothing With Thredup

    Madewell Platform For Second Hand Clothing With Thredup

    Consumers have taken a big dig to recycle all sorts of waste but when it comes to clothes the speed of adaptation is very slow. Abandoned clothes lead to landfills causing a threat to the environment. The incipient fashion trend of thrifting or reselling second-hand clothes is now more productively being used by retailers. Consumers, especially Generation Z are becoming more mindful and are moving towards thrift stores and second-hand clothing.

    To be a part of this new business opportunity, US denim brand Madewell partnered with resale giant ThredUp to launch a new second-hand fashion platform “Madewell Forever”.This online resale platform is a stand-alone digital store curated by Madewell and stocked by both ThredUp and Madewell stores.

    Madewell Forever is an exclusive microsite and an extension to Madewell’s official site. It can be accessed via a ‘pre-loved button’ on the brand’s main site. Jointly operated by ThredUp, it will offer a curated selection of used or “pre-loved” jeans. The project’s principal aim is “to collect 1 million pairs of jeans by 2023 and double the life of each recirculated garment,” the companies said in a press release. The effort as  Madewell claims “has diverted over 500 tons of denim waste from landfills.” 

     The RESALE-AS-A-SERVICE

    The alliance operates on ThredUp’s resale-as-a-service (RaaS) to give used jeans a new life. Launched on Tuesday, the platform currently has over 3,000 products, with new styles added hourly. The prices range from 35 dollars to 50 dollars. ThredUp’s “resale-as-a-service” technology is available to third-party retailers since 2018 and is an expansion of the companies’ 2019 collaboration of selling secondhand jeans. The company claims to have processed over 100M unique clothing items to date and displaced 1Billion lbs of CO2.

    Over the past two years, San Francisco-based ThredUp has procured partnerships with famed brands like Abercrombie & Fitch, Reebok, and Rent the Runway. But this is the first time that one of ThredUp’s RaaS clients ( Madewell) has launched a resale platform that allows customers to both clean out their closets and shop for second-hand fashion.

    The companies said that Madewell worked closely with ThredUp to develop a unique, white-labeled resale channel including a digital shop, the first of its kind enabled by the service.

    HOW DOES IT WORK?

    Customers are encouraged to bring any brand of pre-worn jeans into Madewell stores and earn 20 dollars towards a full-priced pair of Madewell jeans. Progressively, jeans dropped off at the store in a satisfactory condition are put up for resale and assembled with the brand archives. The site is continually updated with more inventory. Jeans that are truly worn out and are unsellable get passed on to the ‘Blue Jeans Go Green program’ that then recycles denim for housing insulation.

    “It’s exciting to see a beloved brand like Madewell working to extend the life of their clothes and commit to a more circular fashion future. We are proud ThredUp’s operating platform will enable and scale a meaningful resale channel for Madewell through ‘Madewell Forever’.” Says ThredUp co-founder and CEO James Reinhart.

    ABOUT THE BRAND: MADEWELL

    Founded in 2006, Madewell has a reputation for high-quality denim and is the bright spot in parent company J. Crew Group’s portfolio. Earlier being a casual women’s wear line, the brand expanded into men’s clothing in 2018. Retailer of apparel and accessories in the United States, the company’s products include denim, shirts, sweaters, dresses, coats, shoes, and bags, providing customers with the latest design in fashion.

    As Madewell lays down a pristine outlook for the fashion industry through its sustainable attempts, it spurs the interests of other companies to inculcate second-hand apparel platforms and reduce the retail impact on the environment.

    EMERGING DENIM RESALE PLATFORMS

    “Thrifted denim is generally a smart purchase because of the durable nature of the fabric, which often lasts longer than other fabrics, and gets better with wear. People typically love the distressed look of worn denim, which makes it easy to be resold again and again,” said Natalie Tomlin, a ThredUp spokesperson.

    As consumers turn more sensible about the environment, sites like Depop, Poshmark, ThreadUp, and The Real Real are their go-to destinations for better denim deals.

    ThredUp

     Founded in 2009 and based in San Francisco, ThredUp is an online consignment store that allows you to combine the joys of online shopping and the great prices of shopping thrift. It operates with the mission to inspire a new generation of consumers to think secondhand first. By making it easy to buy and sell secondhand, ThredUP has become one of the world’s largest resale platforms for women’s and kids’ apparel, shoes, and accessories. ThredUp’s mission is to extend every garment’s life and keep as many textiles as possible in use and out of landfills.

    Depop

     Based in London, Depop provides a marketplace that enables individuals to buy and sell their items on mobile platforms.  The application has attracted celebrities to open stores, with some donating proceeds to charitable causes. Depop is especially popular with the Millennial and Generation Z audience because it provides a way for them to recycle second-hand items. Depop’s popularity is attributed to its push to support sustainable fashion sources.

    Poshmark

    Poshmark is a marketplace for those looking to sell modern clothes and accessories, often secondhand. With more than 60 million users within North America and approximately 100 million items for sale, this platform is a great option for anyone looking to sell mid to high-end products.

    Poshmark is more oriented towards Millennials. Sellers have good luck when posting brands like Madewell, Zara, Coach, and Banana Republic. On Poshmark, one can earn a premium for selling brand new items but shoppers aren’t concerned about high-value vintage pieces.

    The Real Real

     Founded in 2011, The RealReal is the world’s largest online marketplace for authenticated, resale luxury goods. With a rigorous authentication process overseen by experts, the company provides a safe and reliable platform for consumers to buy and sell their luxury items. A sustainable company gives new life to pieces by hundreds of brands, from Gucci to Cartier, supporting the circular economy. The reseller is also seeing sustainability-focused brands like Re/Done, a brand is known for its upcycled vintage denim garments, the trend in the market.

    While the cost-effective benefits for consumers shopping resale are present, denim is also proving to be a reliable business for the resale sites. With household closets serving as a supply to this market, resale platforms are offering consumers an opportunity of joy with a consistent rotation of new pre-owned products for less. As Second–hand fashion contributes to both business and environmental concerns, it brings about a revolution of thrifted denim which will be relished and fancied by the new age customer more in the coming years.

  • Recycled Carbon Smart Fabrics –Lululemon X Lanzatech: Promise For Denim Industry Also

    Recycled Carbon Smart Fabrics –Lululemon X Lanzatech: Promise For Denim Industry Also

    Lululemon Athletica Inc., the luxury athletic apparel brand, recently announced its collaboration with Biotechnology company LanzaTech, to produce the world’s first fabric with the use of recycled carbon emissions that would otherwise get released into the atmosphere as pollution. The carbon-capture experts and the high-end athleisure curator have fabricated a waste-gas-based polyester with the same appearance, advent, and properties of virgin polyester.

    LanzaTech – a New Zealand startup – uses nature-based solutions to make ethanol out of waste carbon sources and is partnering with different companies around the world including India Glycols Limited (IGL) and Taiwanese Far Eastern New Century(FENC) to transform ethanol into the polyester. Recycling carbon is a foundational element of the circular economy, which keeps fossil carbon in the ground, abating pollution and fossil fuel utilization when used to produce polyester. With a decreased carbon footprint, this innovation could remold Lululemon’s products and the apparel industry.
    The technology innovated by the company is compared to that of a brewery; instead of using yeast for traditional fermentation, industrial carbon waste is converted into fuels and chemicals by bacteria. The technology also holds great promise for the denim industry as polyester is one of the important fibers used in the denim products.

    “We must radically change how we source, utilize and dispose of carbon. Carbon recycling enables companies like Lululemon to continue to move away from virgin fossil resources, bring circularity to their products, and achieve their climate change goals around carbon reduction. We call this being ‘CarbonSmart.’” Says Jennifer Holmgren, CEO, LanzaTech.


    The biotech company claims that the ethanol so produced comes from a steel mill in China, where carbon monoxide is fermented and converted into ethanol. The company has worked with a chemical partner called India Glycols Limited to turn ethanol into mono ethylene glycol (MEG), a chemical normally made from fossil fuels. Another partner, the textile manufacturer Far Eastern New Century, used the MEG to make polyester. When made into Lululemon’s fabric, it’s the same as the one made from fossil fuels.

    HOW IS THE FABRIC MADE?

    According to LanzaTech, carbon is captured from various feedstocks, including synthetic gas, industrial emissions, agricultural waste, household waste, and other sources of carbon that have already been emitted into the atmosphere. These carbon molecules are then transformed into ethanol with the help of micro-organisms developed by them. The ethanol and other base ingredients thus produced are eventually converted into the resultant fabric, that is, polyester.
    This synthetic material provides the comfort, breathable wear, flattering shape, and fit that is necessary for athleisure clothes. This sustainable substitution of using carbon emissions instead of virgin petroleum or fossil fuel to produce polyester helps maintain ecological balance.


    “Since initially connecting LanzaTech’s Taiwanese joint-venture set up with a pilot plant in Taiwan, I believed this waste-gas-based polyester formation would be a sustainable solution for the polyester industry. We are happy to team up with IGL and Lululemon to complete the supply chain for this historical project and continue working with LanzaTech towards our common goal for a better Earth,” says Dr. Fanny Liao, Executive Vice President of RD at FENC.
    Lululemon hasn’t yet announced which products the fabric so produced may be used in. But by partnering with LanzaTech at a prompt stage, Lululemon is helping move the technology forward.
    Polyester fiber is one of the most prevalent synthetic fibers that usually uses petroleum-based feedstock. LanzaTech worked with Taiwanese textile manufacturer FENC to manufacture the ‘TOPGREEN Bio3-PET’ fiber which was made from LanzaTech’s ethanol. This initiative shows FENC’s and Lululemon’s dedication to sustainable innovation. Likewise, LanzaTech has also partnered with Unilever Pvt Limited to manufacture laundry detergent using recycled carbon emissions named OMO that has been rolled out in India.

    WHAT LED TO THIS BIG STEP TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY?


    In October 2020, Lululemon published its first Impact Agenda, silhouetting its strategies to tackle social and environmental issues with 12 goals to drive progress. The partnership with LanzaTech is one of the many ways Lululemon is directed on bringing new technologies into operation.

    Lululemon Impact Agenda

    The Impact Agenda is the company’s stake in the ground towards an equitable and sustainable future. Developed through internal and external engagement, it is rooted in the social and environmental contexts in which it operates and the societal issues that matter most for the business and industry. This agenda outlines the company‘s commitments to improve environmental impact, contribute to a healthier future, and create long-term value.
    “We know sustainable innovation will play a key role in the future of retail and apparel, and we are excited to be at the forefront of innovative technology. Our partnership with LanzaTech will help Lululemon deliver on our Impact Agenda goals to make 100 per cent of our products with sustainable materials and end-of-use solutions, moving us toward a circular ecosystem by 2030,” says Ted Dagnese, Chief Supply Chain Officer at Lululemon.

    This environmentally benign innovation will set new parameters for other brands to optimize resources with more replaceable and recyclable methods, thus contributing to a better future of the apparel industry.These are in themselves great steps and could become incomparable if the recyclability of the post consumer products created with such polyester could be somehow ensured – specially for the denim industry which is really focusing hard of post consumer wastes. We are perhaps waiting for that great technology news about easy extraction and recyclability of polyester .