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Category: Interviews

  • COVID Times – A Talk with Alice Tonello

    COVID Times – A Talk with Alice Tonello

    Continuing our series of daily Live IG talks with important personalities in denim world, Sandeep Agarwal spoke to ALICE TONELLO from Tonello Group, Italy. Tonello is a well respected name in the global denim and apparel industry providing unique washing , dyeing and technology solutions to the manufacturers worldwide. With her global perspective and being an important player in the supply chain, it was important to have her views . Lets check out the verbatim discussion below :

    Sandeep:

    Hey Alice , I welcome you and hope that all of your family friends are safe and healthy in Italy.

    Alice 

    Yes, thank you, Mr. Sandeep, our family is fine and also the tonello team. We have three weeks of lockdown in all Italy and things have been improving daily and it looks like we can probably restart work next week.

    Sandeep

    That’s a wonderful news !  It has been such a huge tragedy that nobody expected and there are so many lives lost and the with the fighting spirit of Italians, I know you will be able to come back strongly. 

    Alice

    Thank you, Sandeep. Yes, I think Italy can be considered an example of resilience and if you permit me, let me thank all our workers and the employees who never pull it back during the difficult day and always support the company’s needs. 

    Sandeep:

    That’s great, Alice. What do you make of the current situation and how it is affecting our industry and specifically  a technology company- your company? 

    Alice

    Sandeep, as you can imagine, this situation has created a huge crisis for all kinds of supply chains. Our production, unfortunately, has suffered. Some orders are getting delayed but we are positive. We have been working on some new ideas and our engineers have been brainstorming on different machine applications and I think this is the right time to think out of the box. 

    We are trying to understand how to use existing available resources. Many laundries in Italy are innovating and coming up with new technology in these tough times. In another part of the world, companies are using our ozone machine for sanitization and at this moment these are some examples that can really bring change and can help in this situation.

    Sandeep: 

    Absolutely, so when we come back to our industry, what do you think are the changes we are going to see because they are huge challenges that we are looking right now with the entire supply chain which is totally disrupted and closed. Right now I’m sure nobody can really make full sense out of it but at least what is your take on this of  what is really happening and what is going to happen? 

    Alice

    Sandeep, I think every day is about what is going to change and how we can support in the best way, how we can be part of this change. Of course, as you say it is very difficult to predict but I think it’s a sign to reflect on some points. 

    For example, it is the right time to think about the volume that we are producing, to think about the quality, to think about how sustainability has been used inappropriately. I think some deeper thought process is required when we go back to normality.

    The consumer will probably have a different priority than buy a pair of jeans but​ ​on the other side, I think there will be a desire to return back to do something. Let’s say normal but maybe with a different approach on value and with a different approach on quality, probably it will be lesser but better .

    Sandeep

    How is sustainability going to be  redefined in terms of what we have been saying for the last two-three years? There have been a lot of talks of sustainability and also some action but I really don’t know how much good it was but in real terms how much it will make a difference in the coming months?

    Alice

    I think also  the terms of sustainability will change a little bit, more responsibility from a different point of view. Let’s say how the garments are made? With which product it has been made and under what conditions(Factory and worker conditions) it has been made?

    I don’t know if it will be a priority for the consumer when we will return back to normality to buy a pair of jeans but I believe that they will take care much more about a lot of things including water, chemicals, and other resources exploited to make a pair of jeans. We also hope the consumer will become a little skeptical and stronger because now when we have seen that so many big retailers have canceled orders and workers are suffering so maybe a sustainability angle also includes how you are treating the human resource. 

    Sandeep

    What are your thoughts on Nearshoring? Do you think this is going to be aggressively adopted by brands and retailers?

    Alice

    I completely agree with you. I feel retailers will be more comfortable having very short runs and they don’t want to wait for long lead time, items in production which are to be delivered in five to four months and to be in stores in six months. So probably they would like to have shorter beds – for two months or three months. 

    I know that many brands have already canceled their season preview so I think some small beds will be most preferred. And so I believe that some company has to become more flexible and faster to guarantee these kinds of requests. 

    Sandeep

    One more thing that we are hearing is digital, everything is going to be digital. So what let’s say for your kind of technology company, what does it mean? Does it affect you anyway in some ways where things are going digital?

    Alice

    We have been working for the last few years on digitalization and so far as the Tonello is concerned, I would like to give some examples. In our company, we’ve innovated a new way to wash a pair of jeans which is completely digital, simple and automatic. 

    By Digitalisation we mean that we are able to see from home or from the office what is happening in your laundry, how many liters of water your washing machine is consuming and also energy, steam and time.

    With this technology, one can check, irrespective of location, what is happening in your washing machine in real-time and without any human manipulation. In Today’s time, Transparency with consumers is also very important and therefore going digital is very important.

    Adriano said in the past that after some time we have to try more to reduce waste of time – for example during the collection development there is much different software and this for sure can help in terms of sustainability and responsibility. 

    Sandeep

    Adriano said that a 50% reduction in denim business would be seen. My question is, do you think some of the different categories of products might come up which might replace some of the apparel which is being currently produced, for example, PPE- Personal Protective Equipment, designer mask or might be , Homewear products etc which in the supply chain might be a kind of oxygen for suppliers?

    Alice

    I think in some cases- yes and in some cases, it can help if some company can find some new​ ​ideas. Comfortable clothes, for example, are really important, the mask we are wearing in Italy, never happened before this emergency. There will be some more categories but I don’t think this is going to be an alternative to what we have lost.

    In some cases, maybe 20% of their capacity, can be used for producing masks in this emergency but we have to use our mind to create something new and to be ready when they return to normality.

    Sandeep

    How do you see the consumer behavior post-pandemic? What you think there will be some changes in the consumer behavior either in Asian Market or in the European market? Or will it be some kind of a similar reaction to the one we saw?

    Alice

    I think once  people will return back to normality, they need some time, let’s say they have the desire to restart but it depends on how much this emergency affects the economical situation. Also maybe their approach to go to the shop and their approach to try something will be different and we have to think about it. 

    Maybe the online shopping will increase and I don’t believe it will return back to normality quickly, therefore we have to be stronger and to think of something different to give some new ideas to the market and at this moment we need to try to understand the new needs, the new values of the consumer.

    Sandeep

    One of the questions which are coming up is about antimicrobial , anti dust, water resistant and other denims which help in health and wellness. What is your take on this and how can you help in this regard. 

    Alice

    Absolutely Sandeep, Our Ozone machine can do and has been already doing the sanitization to the garment for many years and we used to do this in a small quantity. Normally we use huge quantities to do the bleaching with our ozone machine but in a small quantity, our technology can do it.

    The sanitization process can be easily done with our ozone machines, our client can easily do the processing and so can be very flexible and wash a pair of jeans and after that in the end if they want, they can do sanitization and send to the customer, to the shop.

    For example some special products by nebulization, we have the nebulization system which can be used. Rudolf company , which is a chemical company, t are producing anti antimicrobials or something I said to apply at the end of the blowing the processor and that’s  good.

    Sandeep

    What are the biggest positives you see from this situation, though it’s a very difficult situation, still do you think any positives are coming?

    Alice

    This is a very difficult question, but from all the difficult situations and from all the crises, something new can happen, sometimes you have to think about it in a different way. I hope this situation will compel all of us to be more honest in terms of sustainability, transparency and I believe that all the companies that work honestly in a transparent way and support the customer will have the chance to reinvent themselves without any problem.

    Sandeep:

    Thank you so much, Alice, it was a real pleasure speaking to you.

    Alice

    Thanks to you, thank you for sharing and we catch up very soon again.
    (check the video of her talk below )

  • Adriano Goldschmied Speaks About Covid 19 Impact On Apparel Industry

    Adriano Goldschmied Speaks About Covid 19 Impact On Apparel Industry

    When the times are tough , we need to look up to people with vision , people who have shown us the path in the past and who will show the light to us for the future. In our industry , perhaps the most prominent personality on this pedestal is Adriano Goldschmied – The Godfather Of Denim . He needs no introduction for any one of us and it is upto leaders like these that we seek answers and inspiration from , during the unprecedented times that all of us are going through. It was indeed a pleasure and honor for me that he agreed to share his views on current situations and future indications for our industry. I spoke to him on the various aspects of the coronavirus crisis (at our Instagram ) and its possible impact on us and how we need to adjust ourselves and find solutions . He shared his erudite views backed by decades of experience in his very humane and humble way. The immediate future looks tough but we need to be resilient and adjust ourselves in innovative ways – is his fundamental message.

    Sandeep:
    First of all I want you to thank you for joining this discussion it’s such a pleasure and honor for me.

    Adriano:
    It is an amazing opportunity- thank you very much .We are experiencing first hand what it means to be digital . It is a good exercise because it looks like this will be our future.

    Sandeep:
    Absolutely, I agree with you.So how’s everything in LA ? Is it getting better than before?

    Adriano:
    The situation in LA is very similar to other parts of America, but better than New York . Let’s say, every business is closed and only essential facilities are open. People might need to stay home long time, which is not a good thing.  Basically, we are suggested to stay at home, but free spirited Americans are still going around. In Italy, for instance, is different because they can pose heavy fines if you disobey a state/federal mandate.  We hope Americans who love freedom & independence understand the importance of staying home and can contribute to everyone’s safety.

    Sandeep:
    Absolutely, because it’s for everybody and it’s totally unexpected and we all are actually trying to find a way out what to do .We have to find a way out of this situation. First of all , I really hope that all your friends and relatives and family , everybody is okay and healthy.

    Adriano:s
    Everybody is fine including my staff.  Let’s say, I really care about my team. They are the biggest value of the company.  I ordered them to stay home even before the California government ordered people to stay home.  We are working remotely from home, but all our mills in China are reopened and operating at 100%.  Our business is already very digital.  That is why we can adapt easily to the new situation.  But we do miss the touch & feel portion of our business.  This is a big moment of responsibility for us all. It is in the hands of every single person to help and to try to arrive to a good conclusion.

    Sandeep:
    So what do you think of the situation ? how it’s really going to affect all of us because we are seeing massive issues going on,  the stores are closing down , bankruptcies are coming , the supply chain is getting totally disrupted. What is really going to happen in fashion industry and denim industry in particular ?

    Adriano:
    My feeling is that we do not realize the magnitude of this disaster.  Everyone is very uncomfortable.  All the stores are closed, all the companies are closed.  We are doing our best to do our work remotely at home, but I don’t think we realize the real consequences of this situation in our business.  The reality is that we don’t have a complete vision on the impact on our business.  The work has turned more towards a digital platform.  This is very difficult for my generation. Personally for me, I am used to having physical contact with the people, with my team.  Working digitally is something we are all forced to learn today to maintain business.  I think this is a positive thing. What we have done in the past by physical contact can be done digitally & remotely today saving a lot of time. We will continue to work this way even after we get back to normal.  The current mood right now is very emotional and the only button that we have in front of us is the panic button.  Instead, we need to be ready to press the restart button.  This will require us to have a better vision of how the situation is revolving. The consequences of the coronavirus will change the way we make business decisions.  This situation is going to have long lasting effects and we have to think to take on a bigger moral responsibility.

    I believe this will forcibly push our industry in a positive way towards sustainability & circular fashion.  It will also push the consumers to buy products that are more durable, more valued, in a more responsible way.  The consumers will indicate to the mills and manufacturers to go towards this direction. Next year for sure we’re gonna be down in our business at least by 50%.  It will have a terrible impact in the organizations of all supply chains globally.  It will hit dramatically in countries where textile is a big part of their economic sector. 

    I don’t want to be negative, but the denim business has been changing the social life in a lot of countries.  Particular in developing countries like Bangladesh, Pakistan & many others.  So my mind is going to the millions and millions of people that rely on manufacturing jobs not just as work, but also their livelihood.  They don’t have other options and their governments have limited means to assist them.  When we overcome the coronavirus and go back to normal, we will have to adjust to a new “normal.”  It will not be like switching a light on.  The industry has to find a formula to understand the new reality and reinvent the way we work. Even though it is difficult for all, for countries like America, it will be easier to be able to help people.  Unfortunately the poor will be the ones who will pay the biggest price.

    Sandeep:
    It is a really very tough situation and I don’t know if you are not able to think about solutions , it is really very difficult for us to really think about solutions.There seem to be no way out but in terms of consumption patterns by the consumers what changes do you think will happen in terms and the end of the consumer? What would they look forward after these crisis?

    Adriano:
    It’s clear we face difficulties, but I’m positive that life will go on.  Everyday we will have a new morning.  The reaction to the new normality will be different in Asia (especially China) & in emerging countries.  People are at home for a long period of time and they are anxious and probably the reaction for them is to go shopping again.  It will probably be a shopping party.  On the other side, in America & Europe, consumers will reconsider their way of shopping. 

    The consumers are more mature and not afraid to change the approach that they have to shop.  All the digital shopping is going to be booming but they are going to reconsider shopping in a more responsible way. They will buy less and buy better.  Transparency will be more evident and help the consumer make better choices with the information provided. This is the direction that we have been pushing for for years and years.

    Sandeep:
    Do you think fast fashion will move out? Is Fast fashion is going to finish ?

    Adriano:
    We have different reactions from different parts of the world.  One way is that fashion will be more important.  Fashion has an important role because it is creating an emotion for the buyer.  Fashion is stimulating this approach that the consumer is thinking that they cannot live without the new fashion.  Consumers of fashion are interested in new products, fits & washes all the time.  In my opinion, the market will change. 

    The rule was that we come to the market with new products every six months. We need to change our method of work and to be more open minded. There is no obligation to make 40+ piece collections.  We should bring new products to the market when it is interesting for the market. This way will be much more simple. 

    We need a more digital approach that is available anywhere, all the time.  The other way is that the consumer is going into more basic, simple & clean products.  Basics is not all about price.  As transparency is more available, they will choose products with more value and durability.  Our consumers are ready for a lot of different price points.  The price will reflect the real value of the product. 

    I am one of the original leaders of premium denim.  I remember when we could take a mediocre quality denim and put a hefty price like $300 dollars and call it “premium.”  That is fake premium.  It was taking advantage of the emotion of the consumer and not providing a real premium product.  Now consumers have information and choices to select better quality products.  Recycling and reuse of garments is taking a lot of attention.  When we come out from this pandemic, we will have a new face of our business.

    Sandeep:
    Well as we see the reports, we understand that this situation in some way will continue for at least one year or one and a half years till the time we have really have a vaccine.So do you think with so many people working from home will also affect the kind of clothes the people will be buying ?

    Adriano:
    I think there are a lot of things that can be done digitally. For instance, I am a partner with MYR , a digital platform to design & develop remotely.  With this technology, you can control the development and production digitally and remotely. 

    This is a very important step to reduce cost and is much more sustainable.  On another level, the trade shows will play a different role as we work with at digital platform.  This will save us time & money.  Think about design, with a digital platform we will be able to have a closer relationship with the vendors. 

    This will also enable us to have a closer connection with the market for a faster exchange of ideas.  We don’t know how this will work, but for sure it will be the new way, our new normality.  The current situation is like a tsunami.  Only the good & strong will survive.  The panorama of the mills will be reshaped by acquisitions with companies that understand the need to switch to a more digital platform.

    Sandeep:
    I really want to thank you for your wonderful views and people are really happy to watch you speak and understand from you what’s happening around.So I really thank you for everything that you know.

    Adriano:
    Thank you very much. I wish to our people and all the humanity to be healthy and that this will pass soon.  We need to be ready for big changes and find a way to make our business better.  I hope the industry will think in a much more moral way and think about all the affected people to guarantee a better life and not just about the profits.  Thank you very much and good luck.

  • COVID Times – A Talk with Neeraj Sachdeva

    COVID Times – A Talk with Neeraj Sachdeva

    During the discussions on our how corona virus is affecting us all and our industry , we speak to Neeraj Sachdeva on the current situation and timings which we call #Covidtimes . An industry veteran and having held position of creative heads in many global retailers including Benetton besides being a Professor in Fashion Institute of Technology (NYC) , Neeraj shares his unique perspective with Sandeep Agarwal on this situation and what all we can expect. We bring the talk verbatim.

    Sandeep
    Hi Neeraj, How are you doing and How’s everything going in NYC?

    Neeraj 

    Good Morning Sandeep, it’s getting a little sunny now, sometimes the Sun definitely helps when other things are not going so well. I’m sure you’ve seen the news, unfortunately, I wish I could say the news is exaggerating for once, actually, things are not. 

    I think the good thing is everybody’s taking the severity of the situation very seriously and we’re following orders and shelter in place and social distancing and non-essential services and business are on hold. 

    It’s definitely helping the contagion but there’s a lot of work ahead for everybody and it’s interesting to see how the small businesses are being so creatively evolving, how to deliver, how to service customers. Because safety is first and even when you go out for your grocery, I can see every day New Yorkers actually exercising extreme caution and courtesy and common sense. 

    Sandeep  : 

    Coming to the business side, it’s a terrible situation right now, stores are closing down and supply chains are being badly affected, so what do you think it is going to lead to?

    Neeraj:
    Well to tell you the truth, obviously, I don’t have a crystal ball to tell you this is exactly what’s gonna happen, a lot of stuff depends on when we can do a calendar that’s the thing as an organization or individual we are so used to working with it and believe Oh!  this is my time so I hope this happens

    In two months this happened and in three months I can do this and that.

    There’s not much we can do right now, I mean like you said who thought that maybe like a nationwide lockdown three weeks long and we’re all in week 3 and so we’ll just have to wait to see and I think a lot of what happens to all of us as consumers.  

    Our confidence post-pandemic like how excited are we and what are we excited about do we want to go immediately on a shopping spree or do you want to be cautious and current take it slow and you know just to be a bit more conservative with our expenses. You only buy things and we wanna buy experiences, you wanna reach out to our loved one in weeks now which seems like decades for a lot of us. So I think a lot will depend on consumer confidence as we step out of it.

    I think brands and businesses will have to involve products and messaging and how we kind of deal with these things. One thing that I think is gonna make a huge comeback is the brick-and-mortar store. I think all of us will rush back to engage with humanity as you said to actually touch them feel because of the product and I think currently three weeks in I’m a bit dizzy and I’m a bit digital afflicted and I will be okay not to see my computer screen for hours and hours and hours then because that’s all I do ten hours a day now. Obviously it’s great that we have the technology and tools to connect with people, talk to businesses like yourself and still stay connected and inspired but I miss physical touch and space.

    I miss things to touch and feel I think we’ll all crave that’ll definitely impact on what happens once we’re out of this pandemic. Businesses are just nimble and they’re ready to adapt and do whatever that happens. We have to quickly mold into the new reality because I don’t think we’re going back to what my business was a month ago. I think you see a lot of new business models. I think a lot of new creativity I think big businesses will have to start thinking like smaller businesses and be agile and you will see a whole new rebalancing.

    Sandeep

    If this situation lasts for a couple of months and supply chains get broken, I mean it won’t be so

    easy for the brick and mortar stores and even online stores to come back very quickly.

    Neeraj

    Well, this is highly nuanced and extremely technical and as you said this would be like a logistical nightmare but I myself just filling out different scenarios if I’m back to my office after two months or three months, what would come, I will be ready to embrace whatever comes our way because I don’t think so anybody can predict an exact timeline. 

    So say if the lockdown left in May week two, then I have X raw materials and manufacture X number

    of goods, we just don’t know and what I was going to be doing stuff for because think about it. Unfortunately, spring and summer are pretty much a wash at this point the next week is namely back-to-school or q3.

    Sandeep

    I have been speaking to some of my industry friends, and they are advocating about SEASONLESS Garments, what’re your thoughts on it?

    Neeraj

    Well, don’t you think the concept of Seasonless has been followed for the last couple of years and not new? So I think this season analogy has been abandoned as the collections are coming after every alternate month, I guess. So I do not think that there is anything new about it. I guess we should ask retailers not to produce in such heavy quantities. 

    I think you may see less of quantities because since we’ll be producing less, to begin with, you know

    again that could be a tiny positive out of this whole thing.

    Sandeep

    Do you think, is it the beginning of the end of mass fashion?

    Neeraj

    So again, to tell the truth, it all depends on consumer behavior. I mean do you think the whole idea that I’m just going to wear this outfit for one Instagram photo gonna go away overnight is going to be still there, probably not but you see a whole different realization of it.

    The thing is when I was at the discussion with some of my colleagues about sustainability in our businesses, we realized that it is there but nobody is really investing it in a big big way but I think this experience will make sustainability a very personal thing like experiencing all of these things for something. Consumers will look at who is manufacturing and how’s it impacting their daily life actually now.

    I think this would reshape everything that for a long time to come and a lot of great things will come on I just don’t know what they are absolutely 

    Sandeep

    Do you think in terms of outsourcing, the globalization model will probably take a backseat and people may look for nearshoring, sourcing near their own countries or regions as far as possible?

    Neeraj

    It’s again a matter of rebalancing and maybe well one of the things that actually comes to mind is maybe we need to look at our traditional product development. A lot of things are going to be virtual and digitalization of most of the process is going to happen now. 

    One of the criticisms of virtual tools is that they are very expensive but the more the people get behind it, the technology will become cheaper. And if there’ll be more players coming up, it will bring even more innovative solutions in a much faster way.  

    I think we should start to think more about digitalization.

    Sandeep :

    Do you think many small brands that do not have deep pockets will not be able to survive and be shutting down due to this pandemic? 

    Neeraj : 

    Yes, I do think  but I also think a lot of crowdfunding will happen and the small brand will find ways to save itself. Campaigns like buy from locals either its restaurants or cloth, local stores/shops have already started, and I think a lot of amazing things will come out of it.  

    Sandeep

    You work with a lot of designers and yourself being in senior creative positions , to your mind what is their main concern as of now?

    Neeraj

    I think it is just uncertainty, if they will be certain for two weeks, they will behave in a certain way or if they will be certain for three months, they will behave in a certain way. Every day new supply chains get disrupted, everyday new orders get canceled, so there is just a lot of uncertainty and that is what most of the people are worried about. 

    Sandeep 

    The biggest positive takeaway from this situation ?

    Neeraj

    I am optimistic about everything and I believe that a lot of adaptability, flexibility, and creativity will come out of it. 

    Sandeep 

    It was  really wonderful speaking to you and thank you for joining us and please be safe 

    Neeraj 

    Thank You, Sandeep, Take care.


  • COVID Times – A Talk with Vasco Pizzaro

    COVID Times – A Talk with Vasco Pizzaro

    Sandeep
    We are in difficult times, how is Portugal doing?

    Vasco
    Personally, I have been home for voluntary quarantine for the last three weeks because I have a history of asthma since my younger days so they advised me to stay at home.

    In terms of our company, we’ve already decided about two weeks ago in order to protect our workers to stop the activity for now. Portugal has not yet closed all non-essential activities and a lot of textile companies are adapting themselves to producing masks and protective gear for medical healthcare.

    In our case, we don’t have that expertise so we are contributing in trying to stop the spread of the virus by sending our 400 employees to home to ensure their safety. We’ve also ensured the timely payment of their salaries during this period.

    We are adapting ourselves accordingly and reinventing but unfortunately, most of the shops around Europe are closed, Spain has been hit very hard from this virus. I don’t know much about the Asian market but if you could give me some insights, I would be able to understand the situation of that market also.

    Sandeep
    I’m a little surprised because it seems that Asian countries are doing a little better as compared to American and European countries . Asian countries probably took a lot of precautions and still things are working, their shops are open people are going to the markets some of the factories are open, though of course, they are closing down for a few days now . Other countries like Singapore, Thailand or Taiwan which are very close to China, these have done a very good job there. 

    Vasco

    Yes, they’ve set very good examples as there were very close to China and countries like Hong Kong, Singapore and Macau have controlled the situation very well and I also know that Japan is working because we buy fabric from there so I just talked them yesterday so I know that they are working but what I’ve been read is that Cambodia, India have taken serious measures. 

    Sandeep
    We are in complete lockdown, no factories no shops are opened. Everything is closed all over India 


    Vasco
    Yeah, I think the lockdown is the best measurement that they can do because it will help try to mitigate the spread. We should try to be positive now and we have to stay strong because otherwise, it is really going to be difficult. But I think it will help in the future and it will help us differently by initiating a dialogue of real sustainability and not the greenwashing which has been growing a lot for a couple of years. 

    Sandeep
    I would like to hear more about this, please explain a little more, I guess this is very important.

    Vasco
    I think the measurement mechanics of sustainability needs to be expanded a little bit. Especially in how you measure it because I think it’s that the standards can be deceitful now today because I know that there are a lot of people that have their companies based on ZHDC or other parameters.

    I think that the parameters they are based on the laws of each country are deceitful because some laws can be more strict than others and also I think that people are not looking well at the waste in terms of – closing the land fills and the number of clothes that are being destroyed every year but the problem is that we have been producing more and I think people don’t look at the overproduction as much as they are focusing now on the other factors of sustainability before the product we made. 

    The producer and manufacturer need to be more united, irrespective of the competition. I often wonder about how it could be, if we the producers and the manufacturers and the laundry houses and all the little guys unite themselves.

    I always wonder that more people from our side of the industry is doing a lot of things for our world everyone wants to give better wages for their workers, everyone wants to give better conditions to their workers , everyone wants to be more sustainable, every one of us wants to spend as less water spends as as possible to create nice things or to develop new things and I believe there’s also the side that is always taking that advantages that we are creating and benefiting more from it but I believe that if we can unite ourselves and if we can understand each other more, It would be very good. 

    Sandeep
    Post-Pandemic, do you think E-commerce will do better than the brick-mortar stores?

    Vasco

    Of course, I believe that once the people leave their houses, they would like to go to a store but I’m talking about the medium to long-run prospect, I think parts of those markets that were resistant to e-commerce earlier will now go for more eCommerce set up. 

    Sandeep
    What about the seasons? Do you think we are moving towards season less collections?

    Vasco
    Yes, I think so, and I guess this was already in effect since the last couple of years. Instead of seasons, you see more through with presentation and instead of being colder, this winter season or fall or spring or summer, you kinda see a flow and you see variances that you couldn’t see in another place. I think the frequency with which we have been launching our collections have already made it season less. 

    Sandeep
    Do you think brands will want to change their location of sourcing post-pandemic?

    Vasco

    I think yes, we saw a lot of brands that wanted to have production closer to their facilities. In our case we always adapt ourselves in our trajectory as a company or even on services of course on the laundry and on the finishing and on the packaging, we always support the nearshoring.

    We always know that the higher volume and the higher quantities will always will maintain themselves in other countries. Since we know that, in terms of price we cannot compete, we compete through logistics and through differentiation and to give a different product so that’s our way to compete.

    Sandeep
    Do you think in the coming times, people are going to spend more on home wear as they are spending too much time at home? 
    Vasco

    If you know, we work a lot for IKEA and Zara home, so for us, it’s a market that is going to be very successful for home textile. The home textile is growing in terms of importance for the people because they are also evolving as a product, so you see, especially on the textiles, on carpet, rugs, on bedsheets. The brands and the clients are choosing and are looking at many options available. 

    IKEA brought the possibility that we can have a lot of different furniture at an affordable price if people started to turn their attention more on how they can make their house beautiful, so yes there will be more demand for home textiles in the coming times. 

    Sandeep 

    What do you think are the biggest positives of this situation, although this is very unfortunate? 

    Vasco

    I think if there’s any good thing which will come out of this would be the ability to analyze yourself and the company and the market in a status that nobody wants to be in. 

    Sandeep

    There are many stores are closing down, it may lead to a reduction in production, also consumers may look at lower consumption of clothes post-pandemic, How will it re-balance the whole chain?

    Vasco
    I think what the last crisis taught us is that the bigger companies stay stronger and the smaller will normally not survive. I believe that in terms of this equilibrium that we need to hold out, I think it will be very tough for most of us but I believe that the biggest players in whatever market will be the ones benefiting the most.
    I believe that if you stay and if you have the ability to endure this time it can be very beneficial for you in the future.

    I believe that brands we’ll also have to be more aware that they cannot squeeze the margins of the producers because this is showing us are that nobody is safe. But I really hope and we all really hope that in next 1 or 2 months we can come back to normal in some way,even if we have to take precautions .

    Sandeep

    Yes, we all believe that, let’s cross our fingers and hope for the best. It has been always pleasure talking to you, I hope we see you again soon 

    Vasco
    Thank you 

  • COVID TIMES–A Talk With Katsu Manabe

    COVID TIMES–A Talk With Katsu Manabe

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    Continuing our series of talks during our current COVID 19 times, Sandeep Agarwal speaks to Katsu Manabe from Momotaro Group,Japan and he shares his thought on how the current situation is evolving and how it is affecting and will affect our industry in the future. With a special emphasis on situation in Japan, Katsu Manabe shares his views.

    Sandee​p:
    Hi Katsu, Welcome to our Instagram Live, How are you and how is the situation in Japan?
    Katsu:

    We are still working and taking care. But situation is still getting worse and government is taking more measures now.
    Sandeep:
    So currently you are not in lockdown and you are still going to your offices and still working?

    Katsu:
    Yes, most of them go and working.

    Sandeep:
    What about the stalls and shops everything is open still ?

    Katsu:
    Yeah, many stay open

    Sandeep:
    Okay, so how do you think this situation of Coronavirus is affecting your business specially in denim sector in Japan?

    Katsu:
    The situation is quite hard on workers. For us , we need to decide ourselves. The govt is not supporting the business , they can’t guarantee the benefits , therefore most of the people need to decide themselves. People are visiting head offices stores in Okayama , which is on outskirts of Tokyo . Many people are not going to the other stores so right now we closed the store for cleanups.

    Sandeep:
    So , the jeans street is still working and on with many stores open.?

    Katsu:
    Yes, it is open. In March and April, most of the people want to change the clothing and enjoy the spring summer season. Many people are still preferring to stay home , but due to long holidays of students and younger generation , they tend to go out for clothing and shopping. So we still have some sale.

    Sandeep:
    It is a cherry blossom time in Japan this time. It is very pity that in such a beautiful environment in Japan , people have to stay inside.

    Katsu:
    Yes it is blossom season in Japan but very few people are going out.

    Sandeep:
    I think you also have good business in China, Europe and US -probably the most Japanese companies have . Is it  closed in terms of business and
    China was also closed and it is opening a little now so international
    business for you is also like almost closed or working at some places?

    Katsu:
    It depends on how the international quarter works for us. Considering some countries, we already have got some heard from them. Some of the stores and countries have asked us to stop .We don’t know what will happen but we can say Europe is worst . We can see most of the countries and cities are lockdown but in Asia and China, some parts like Shanghai still working .It is very difficult time for US as well.

    Sandeep:
    I’ve been talking to so many different people around the world and they’ve been talking about a lot of changes in fashion even after we come back from this crisis. So do you think from your point of view
    there’s going to be a change in terms of fashion from the consumer
    point of view.
    How people will look forward for new products and like Japanese products
    are already season less , they don’t really create work for seasons much but like international brands and also many retailers they work for
    seasons so I mean many of them say that the seasons will go out . How do you think your way of working and your consumers will be affected because of this?

    Katsu:
    Our products which we sell to oversees are mainly the basic and regular items. SO, we are not doing much for the seasons . Of course, the international market is looking for the season fashion.As most of the exhibitions have been cancelled, we need to try hard to get the buyers otherwise it will be very difficult for us.This is the good time for everybody to make the communication online.

    Sandeep:
    What are the positive things you feel from the situation ? Any positive things which are coming out because every difficult situation also creates some positive things.

    Katsu:
    As I already told you , we need to decide to change how to communicate.We have to use digital way to communicate with people.The export can be made smoother because we can contact online and can support afterwards also. Secondly, we need to focus on production , because after this many people would have lose their job and it is very difficult. We need to see how this situation can be overcome by making ourselves.


    Sandeep:

    So any message you want to give to so many people watching this and
    anything for the fashion industry specially for our industry.
    We already said that we need to go sustainable and any other thing you
    would like to say We discussed digital and second thing sustainability and high quality. So any other thing you would like to say?

    Katsu:
    The industry has to keep going and we have to survive ourselves.The denim business is all around the world ,so people need to enjoy themselves.Stay safe and healthy and enjoy your denim at home.In your lifestyles , if you see denim you will feel good.What we can do is support the people with better life and make them happy .

    Sandeep:
    You also stay safe and healthy and all the best to your family and the Momotaro group.

    Katsu:
    We are trying to go home and develop something beneficial digitally for our industry.

  • Covid Times – A Talk with Stefano Aldighieri

    Covid Times – A Talk with Stefano Aldighieri

    Continuing our series of #COVIDTIMES instagram live talks, Sandeep Agarwal spoke to Stefano Aldihieri – well known denim designer and consultant- from USA. He gave an idea of what he feels of the situation and how he feels it will affect our industry and working. We bring a synopsis of discussion held with him below .

    Hey Stefano, how are you doing? Hope you and all your family and friends are ok?

    Hey Stefano, how are you doing? Hope you and all your family and friends are ok?

    Everything is ok. I am At home in a Lockdown. Things are pretty relaxed over here and that is why I  think that’s actually going to be a real problem going forward . The way you guys in India doing it seems to be a little bit tighter, more similar to what China did, and I know it’s going to be really difficult for a lot of people in India. 

    So what do you think I mean how are you coping with this and what are you doing at a personal and professional level?

    I came back from Europe, they blocked all the travels from Europe and the thing is I don’t think I’d be able to travel back to Europe for a while now, because it’s going to take a while for them to get things sorted. I’m pretty much in the same boat as most people. We cannot travel and we have to try and do some work from home. In our job, it’s difficult to do everything remotely but I am sure we can use the technology to communicate but when it comes to product there’s not much you can do.

    You cannot really show a garment or you cannot touch it and you cannot really have a good feel. On top of that pretty much everything is frozen, as you know all the stores in Europe, in the states,  in many parts of Asia are shut down, so there is absolutely zero commerce going on to trade.

    What do you think about how much time it will take for the situation to come back to normal?

    Nobody knows. If you look at what happened in other places: in China it took about two and a half months of lockdown for them to pretty much eradicate it. Now they have to be careful about the people traveling into the country. I think it’s pretty much under control, most factories have come back to work and the stores are reopening, so life is slowly going back to normal. Other countries, like if you look at Italy or Spain or other places in Europe, I think they have reached the peak of the spread, and so things will probably start to get better over the next few weeks.

    Other parts of the world, like where we live and where you live, are going to take much longer because we’ve only just started. So here I’m afraid that we’re going to see the same situation as in Italy or Spain within the next couple of weeks, it’s going to be real bad real soon. I think we have just seen the beginning of it. In New York, It’s faster because of course, it’s a much more densely populated place and there’s a lot of people traveling from all over the place,  so yes, this country is going to take a little bit longer. California is speeding up, although not as fast as  New York, but it’s going to get up here and so yeah it’s not good.  Obviously your guess is as good as mine, but I think we’re looking at months, not weeks.

    How’s Industry gonna cope up?

    It’s a catastrophe. All the stores have closed, the retailers are not selling anything, of course, they have started canceling all the orders because, while we can say it’s a horrible thing, we also need to consider that, there’s no point getting goods if you’re not going to sell them, and if you don’t have a place to store them, you’re not going to send it to the stores, when you know you’re not going to sell them now.

    One could argue jeans are not a  seasonal product, so you could say, yeah if I don’t sell it now, I can sell it in one month, two months from now. It’ll still be okay it’s not a perishable goods. Other product is going out of fashion  fast,  but at the same time if there are no people working in the warehouse, then how do you even take the goods in. Also,  all the retailers, especially in Europe, still have to pay all their employees –it is  not like here, where they fire everybody overnight and then possibly rehire them when things reopen. So European retailers are all carrying huge costs right now – huge overheads, and even without working they still have to pay rent, still have to pay utilities and salaries.

    We just read this morning that Primark is  refusing to pay millions and millions of dollars of rent, and I think that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Few more will follow you and one can imagine what happens when all the big retailers stop paying rent in those big malls. The other end the really tragic side is along the supply chain, because everybody’s now pushing the buck to the next stop,  and of course factories are not making anything now, they’re not getting paid for the work they’ve done. And fabric companies can’t count on any new orders going forward, so they’re going to going to be stuck for a while, and then the yarn, and the dyestuff, and the finishing product…  So the whole chain is affected, which is tragic. 

    Once this is over and people out again do you think there will be some changes in the way people will do the shopping and do you think the habits will change 

    Well, that’s a really good question because I’ve been thinking about that myself, on one hand, there’s going to be possibly an issue with the availability of goods because if you stop everything it’s not like you can turn the switch on,  and everything starts  flowing into your stores right away, especially with production being done so far from the markets. It takes time -it takes time – for fabric mills to restart, and then they’ll have to ship the fabrics the factories, and factories have to make the goods, and then either ship or fly them. Now even if you fly them, you’re looking at several weeks of  gap between when we reopen and when goods can start flowing in again, there might be a temporary advantage for the factories that are close to the markets, so for the US, I think there will be Mexican factories. For Europe, you’re going to probably see Turkey, unless they get hit very badly – and maybe parts of Eastern Europe and North Africa; those could have a temporary advantage, but of course if they don’t have fabric then there’s no advantage.

    On the other hand, for people going to stores, that is going to be interesting, because we’re going to have people who will come out after weeks or months and there could be two different reactions.

    One is that people will have gotten used to it and will say, well, maybe I don’t need to buy all the stuff, and I don’t need to go to the stores every other day and pick up something that I don’t really need, and maybe I have different priorities now in life and I realize there are other things that are more important. Or there could be people that are so desperate to go back to and will go crazy again, but I think, even  in such a case, availability is going to be an issue. Availability is going to be an issue if all the orders are going to be canceled, then there is going to be a gap when we re-open.  

    It’s going to be a really really bad year, as we may lose the entire summer season and we really have no idea, I think by winter we might be back to normal, but there will still be some issues, because of the forced closure. I have a feeling that some of the brands and retailers that were already shaky before, they probably shut down now  and are not going to be able to reopen, and some of the factories that are being hit now by the cancellations will not really have the means to go back to work, so they won’t be able to rehire their workers. Some governments will have to take extraordinary measures to make up for the difference and they will try to prioritize what is best for their countries.

    For the retailers who are canceling currently, I thought that instead of canceling if they just offered a kind of a moratorium for two months or three months and then restart the dialogue again, what your thoughts on it?

    There’s no easy solution, but what is going to be interesting to see is  how committed they will still be to the whole sustainability and ethical principles,  all these companies. Because one thing is to say that you are you’re committed to doing everything socially right, and ethically right, and environmentally right when  things go relatively well, but when you’re into an emergency like this you tend to forget those things.

    You know they were all racing to who was the most  sustainable company out there up to a few weeks ago?  I want to see how many of those are really, really serious about it,  and how many will not stick to those principles because being sustainable means also taking care of your partners in the supply chain, and I know it’s a really really difficult thing to do, because at some point you have to decide what you’re going to cut, what are you going to sacrifice, and  unfortunately it is  human nature  to take care of the ones that are closer to you than the ones who are far away.

    Positive takeaways from this situation and your advice?  

    Well, we have to try and be optimistic and I think this situation can bring out the worst in us, like people price gouging or taking advantage of this is, which is  absolutely unforgivable,  but there’s also a lot of people who are showing a lot of compassion towards the others. Finally realizing how much incredible work all the other people in the health care world are doing, like all these nurses and doctors and janitors who work in the hospitals.

    They live really really hard lives for not such a great financial retribution, and they don’t even get a lot of satisfaction most of the time, we take those things for granted. Also, people will try to go and find something that is more durable and better quality than disposable, and that is great. I don’t know if you hear the birds here,  nature is blooming right now, with less pollution, even my friend in Milano said the air is clean in Milano, we can breed finally,  I even saw pictures of the canals in Venice with the water so clean and it’s incredible.

    Hey Stefano, how are you doing? Hope you and all your family and friends are ok?

    Everything is ok. I am At home in a Lockdown. Things are pretty relaxed over here and that I think that’s actually going to be a real problem going forward . The way you guys in India doing it seems to be a little bit tighter more similar to what China did and I know it’s going to be really difficult for a lot of people in India 

    So what do you think I mean how are you coping with this and what are you doing at a personal and professional level?

    I came back from Europe, they blocked all the of the travels from Europe and the thing is I don’t think I’d be able to travel back to New York for a while now because it’s going to take a while for them to get things sorted. I’m pretty much in the same boat as most people. We cannot travel and we have to try and do some work from home. In our job, it’s difficult to do everything remotely but I am sure we can use the technology to communicate but when it comes to product there’s not much you can do.

    You cannot really show a garment or you cannot touch it and you cannot really have a good feel. On top of that pretty much everything is frozen, so as you know all the stores in Europe in the state in many parts of Asia are shut down so there is absolutely zero commerce going on to trade.

    What do you think about how much time it will take for the situation to come back to normal?

    Nobody knows. If you look at what happened in other places in China it took about two and a half months of lockdown for them to pretty much eradicate it. Now they have to be careful about the people traveling into the country. I think it’s pretty much under control, most factories have come back to work and the stores are reopening, so life is slowly going back to normal. Other countries I think if you look at Italy or Spain or in other places in Europe I think they reach the peak of the spread and so things will probably start to get better over the next few weeks.

    Other parts of the world like where we live and where you live, are going to take much longer because we’ve only just started. So here I’m afraid that we’re going to see the same situation as in Italy or Spain within the next couple of weeks, it’s going to be real bad real soon. I think we have just seen the beginning of it. In New York, It’s faster because of course, it’s a much more densely populated place and there’s a lot of people traveling from all over the place that I so the country is going to take a little bit longer. California is speeding up to not as fast as in New York but it’s going to get up here and so yeah it’s not. Obviously your guess is as good as mine but I think we’re looking at months not weeks

    How’s Industry gonna cope up?

    It’s a catastrophe. All the stores have closed, the retailers are not selling anything, of course, they have started canceling all the orders because, well we can say it’s a horrible thing we also need to consider that, there’s no point getting goods if you’re not going to sell them and if you don’t have a place to store them you’re not going to send it to the stores, you know you’re not going to sell them now.

    One could argue there is no such a season what seasonal product so you could say yeah if I don’t sell it now I can sell it in one month two months from now. It’ll still be okay it’s not a perishable good. It’s really going out of fashion so fast but at the same time if there are no people working in the warehouse then how do you even take the goods in. Although all the retailers, especially in Europe, still have to pay all their employees – not like here what they can do is fire everybody overnight and then possibly rehire them when things they open. So European retailers are all carrying huge costs right now – huge overheads and even without working they still have to pay rent, still have to pay utilities and salaries.

    We just read this morning that Primark is it’s refusing to pay millions and millions of dollars of rent and I think that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Few more will follow you and can imagine when all the big retailers stopped paying rent in those big malls. The other end the really tragic side is along the supply chain because everybody’s now pushing the buck to the next and of course factories are not making anything now, they’re not getting paid for the work they’ve done. And fabric companies can’t count on any new orders going forward so they’re going to going to be stuck for a while and then the yarn and the dyestuff and the finishing product। So the whole chain is affected which is tragic. 

    Once this is over and people out again do you think there will be some changes in the way people will do the shopping and do you think the habits will change 

    Well, that’s a really good question because I’ve been thinking about that myself, on one hand, there’s going to be possibly an issue with the availability of goods because if you stop everything it’s not like you can turn the switch on anything stop flowing into your stores right away especially with production being done so far from the market it. It takes time -it takes time – for fabric mills to restart and then they’ll have to ship the fabrics the factories have factories have to make the goods and then here to either Ship or fly them. Now even if you fly them you’re looking at several weeks of the gap between when we reopen and when Goods can start flowing in again, there might be a temporary advantage for the sort of factories that are close to the market, so for the US, I think they will see Mexican factories. For Europe, you’re going to probably see Turkey unless they hit very badly – and maybe parts of Eastern Europe and North Africa those could have a temporary advantage but of course if they don’t have fabric and there’s no advantage.

    On the other hand, for people going to stores, that is going to be interesting, because we’re going to have people who will come out after weeks or months and there could be two different reactions.

    One is that people will get used to it and we say well maybe I don’t need to buy all the stuff and I don’t need to go to the stores every other day and pick up something that I don’t really need and maybe I have different priorities now in life and I realize there are other things that are more important. Or there could be people that are so desperate to go back to and go crazy again but I think in such a case availability is going to be an issue. But availability is going to be an issue if all the orders going to be canceled, then there is going to be a gap when we re-open.  

    It’s going to be a really really bad year as we may lose the entire summer season and we really have no idea, I think by winter we might be back to normal but there will still be some issues, because of the forced closure. So I have a feeling that some of the brands and the retailers that were already shaky before, they probably shut down and are not going to be able to truly open and some of the factories that are being hit now by the cancellations will not really have the means to go back to work, so they won’t be able to rehire their workers. Some governments will have to take extraordinary measures to make up for the difference and they will try to prioritize what is best for their countries.

    For the retailers who are canceling currently, I thought that instead of canceling if they just offered a kind of a moratorium for two months or three months and then restart the dialogue again, what your thoughts on it?

    There’s no easy solution but what is going to be interesting is to see how committed they will still be to the whole sustainability and ethical principle of all these companies. Because one thing is to say that you are you’re committed to doing everything socially right and ethically right and environmentally right things relatively well but when you’re into an emergency like this you tend to forget those things.

    You know they were all racing to who was the most a sustainable company out there up to a few weeks ago I want to see how many of those are really really serious about it and how many will not stick to those principles because being sustainable means also taking care of your partners in the supply chain and I know it’s a really really difficult thing to do because at some point you have to decide what you’re going to cut what are you going to sacrifice and an unfortunate human nature is to take care of the ones that are closer to you than the ones who are far away.

    Positive takeaways from this situation and your advice?  

    Well, we have to try and be optimistic and I think this situation can bring out the worst of us the worst in us like people price gouging or taking advantage of this is absolutely unforgivable but there’s also a lot of people who are showing a lot of compassion towards the other. Finally realizing how much incredible work all the other people in the health care world are doing like all the other nurses and doctors and janitors who work in the hospitals.

    They live really really hard lives for not such a great financial retribution and they don’t even get a lot of satisfaction most of the time we take those things for granted. Also, people will try to go and find something that is more durable and better quality than disposable and the other thing that is great. I don’t know if you hear the bird thing in nature is blooming right now but with less pollution, my friend in Milano said the air is clean in Milano we can breed finally I saw pictures of the canals in Venice with the water so clean and it’s incredible.

    Do join us for our next session with Vasco Pizarro from Portugal in our #Covidtimes talks at DENIMSANDJEANS INSTAGRAM at 4pm Portugal time on 3rd April . Follow our page to join the discussion today.

  • Covid Times – A Talk With Lucia Rosin from Italy

    Covid Times – A Talk With Lucia Rosin from Italy

    Covid Times - A Talk With Lucia Rosin from Italy | Denimsandjeans

    We are all going through unprecedented times. One month back nobody thought that most of the countries would be in lockdown , stores would be closed globally , factories and businesses would be unable to continue and supply chains would be broken. Happening too fast, the sequence of events is forcing us to think hard – where are we, what are we going to do , what is coming next , What effect will be there on our industry and so on.  To have more clarity on these questions, Denimsandjeans started a series of live talks with global denim personalities from different countries to understand their perspective on the situation and how they are coping  and what see in the future. Such live talks can be followed at DENIMSANDJEANS INSTAGRAM and we bring the transcript of the discussions . The first one here is a transcript of talk between Lucia Rosin (LR)  from Italy and Sandeep Agarwal (SA) to get important insights.

    S.A : Hi Lucia , How are you here and how’s everything at your end .
    L.R : Ciao ! Sandeep, We are in lock down and are at home right now since more than two weeks . In this moment, we need to be more connected with the clients and look for different perspective. What we realize is the need for digital presentation and many companies are moving from regular to digital presentation. Now, we have to accelerate everything. There is no other solution and it may change the future of working in a different way.

    It is difficult to travel nowadays, therefore we should use our intelligence and ways especially in Italy to overcome the situation and come out in a positive way. It is not easy to work from home because you do not have all the things handy but it contains different value now.

    S.A : We have to manage like this because we do not know if this is the new normal.

    L.R : We have to understand from this new normality what is going for the future of denim and fashion industry. We have to use this problem to be better and to create a new vision especially for fashion. This is the time to create real sustainability in fashion which is the real problem in environment as the better health needs to have better environment. As we know, there is no passport for virus and it has been increasing alarmingly across the world.

    S.A: Many people do not realize the gravity of the situation how it can affect our lives and our work.

    From this bad thing to we need to re-start in a different way for fashion. We need to take care of the real value even for garments. We should really react about sustainability with new values like durability, long lasting, traceability etc. I am sure, after all this mass tragedy, the companies that are doing well will get back  if you act in a good and practical way. The new generation is really taking care about that and this will be a new revolution. Many people will be without work but new work will come up with difference. So we should see the positive point.

    As most of the stores are shutting down in USA, EUROPE and other countries, most of the orders placed are getting cancelled in Bangladesh, Pakistan, China , India etc. So, what do think will happen to our industry in next few months?

    This huge cancellation really creates big problem for the workers. Some brands , retailers , need to cancel because they have no orders / garments in the shop. But on the other hand, for all the poor workers , especially in poor countries like Bangladesh, we have to see deeply the new way to act for their future because it’s not possible now to put these people into poverty again. So, for the future, some brands have already started focusing on basic products, well done products. Focus more in long lasting products, non-seasonal products because we have SS currently , we need to be ready for winters but some companies are closed. So , we need to create collection with no season according to my view.

    For now, I see big problem for the workers and I hope some big brands take consideration the relation that they establish in many years. If I buy garments from Bangladesh for 10 years , I cannot just cancel like that. May be we can buy 10 % – 20 % and give some money to workers otherwise there will be no company.

    Yes , the government support is also very crucial as the damage has to be minimal. But what happens after the things are back to normal. How are we going to change our way of working ? Is it going to change forever?

    What we can do is to do our best . We need to be more connected with each other. If something happens to China, the virus spreads and the effect is global. We try to support the company we are working and we try to be positive and create intelligent solutions, be fast to react and react immediately. We have to act quick and think about health and workers first then work comes because if there is no people , then no work. And hence no business.

    It seems there might be 2 options post crisis, people might jump for shopping because of the shopping desire or people might change their view and they focus on more important aspects of life and reduce shopping.

    Healthy and wellness are the keywords for the future. So, this will be the view of the shoppers as we need to create fashion. When you have partner in some countries, you have to take them as employee. These are going to push retailers to push in fast manner. Also, young generation knows how to use technologies and tools or they will be forced to do it

    Consider a worrisome scenario – With orders getting cancelled, factories not working , workers are getting fired and suddenly after 2 months ,things get normal and there is high demand and you restart the whole thing again.

    We have to use this big problem as a good way to change otherwise there is no future for new generation. Better and healthy environment is future .We have been working since many years on this topic and now will be more rigid with people. We have to be more careful for the future. Everybody should think better health for all. Its not just marketing tool but a core tool for future. We will have better environment , high quality , we will create more local brands which will be created and designed in Italy with more sustainable products .More local means more quality and more sustainability to create a better future.

    Some Interesting Comments During the Talk Viewers engaged well with the talk and gave various comments which reflects how the opinion of the industry is changing. We share some of the comments which came up during these talks .

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  • I Have To Contribute Up to My Last Minute : Adriano Goldschmied

    I Have To Contribute Up to My Last Minute : Adriano Goldschmied

    Perhaps the most well known and respected denim professional globally, the Godfather of Denim needs no introduction. We all know about his contributions to the industry in the last 5 decades and are constantly inspired by him . However, what is amazing to see is that ‘age is just a number for him‘ . He is probably more active at 76 than most of us who might be 2-3 decades younger than him. Not only is it his passion to work but a constant endeavor to make this industry and world a better place . In this quest he is leading a new venture – WISER WASH – which aims to change the way how we wash our jeans and the resultant impact on the environment. With Adriano bringing Wiser Wash to our Denimsandjeans Japan show , we were really keen to know more about it and to get insights into what he is doing and why .

    Hi Adriano , once again welcome to Denimsandjeans. Its always an honor to speak to you and very excited to be a part of a conversation about a great  sustainability project – Wiser Wash –  that you are associated with. Please tell me a little about the journey of Wiser wash and how it was setup 

    It is a kind of Trio, Kevin Youn that was working with me when I started AG is the lucky inventor of the process. Fuat Gozacan understood the potential of the patent and with his company Wiser Globe, he created in Amsterdam Wiser Wash giving the structure, the vision how to operate and obviously putting the money to make it happen. I come in because I really love the wash that I consider a game changer because three main reason 
    1) Makes superior washes, much better then traditional 
    2) Because is sustainable more than any other.
    3) It is cheaper than traditional.
    So we made together a very strong team where i develop new products  and research and I using my network to promote the business around the world. I am not a sale person, I promote things where I really believe in

    No Stones, no chemicals and only a cup of water to wash a jeans ! How is it possible to wash this way ? What role do electrified water and Ozone gas play  in the whole process.

    It is just a special use of the ozone machine and I confirm that in the decoloration process, that for others is Chlorine or potassium, we use 200ml of water when the others are using 15/20 liters of water

    What kind of collaboration you had with Pepe Jeans and how it has affected them in terms of products , investments, innovation and long term gains. 

    We gave to them an exclusivity on the process for a certain period of time, we had a co-branding and we co-marketed the product. The most important thing is that we had a very good response from consumers that love the product that is nicer and more sustainable

    You already have partner laundries in Turkey, Portugal  and USA. What do these laundries need to do to be a part of  Wiser Wash ? Does Wiser Wash give them licence to operate. 

    We own directly the laundry in LA that is our development center and Izmir that is for the training of staff of our partners and production too. In Portugal it is a partnership with Pizarro, The rest of the world the business model is a licence contract. Wiser wash partners need to share the vision and operate with sustainability as most important goal of the company and obviously they have to sign a license contract.

    Are new partnerships coming  up in other regions ?

    We already  signed important license deals with Arvind in India and PPJ in Vietnam and Elleti in Italy. I am just coming back from a trip in South America where we are expecting to sign in Argentina, Colombia and Paraguay. We are targeting partners in the near future in Mexico, Pakistan and China with more to come.

    Sustainability always has a cost which is more than that of traditional methods of doing things . This gap is probably one of the reasons why many still find a strong urge to stick to the former. Does Wiser wash intend to reduce this gap and make sustainability more democratic ? 

    Yes, the big game changer is that Wiser Wash is much more competitive than a traditional wash as we save in water, stone and chemicals and the process is much more simple. This will be a booster for sustainability as is making sustainability affordable for everybody.

    You keep going on so strongly ! Please do let us know about the other projects you are currently involved in. 

    I am very involved in many projects that are about innovation and new technologies in the textile segment. I am pushing to make progresses with Tictorium, Smart Indigo and the new dyeing indigo system. I am also a lot in the introduction of new fibers and collaboration with Lenzing. For what is regarding the design the major focus is to make the jean really circular.

    Besides sustainability , what do you think are the other major factors which are affecting or will affect  the trend direction of denim . 

    It is true that sustainability , bio technology,  saving water and growing new fibers in a smart way are major points but they are just part of a bigger picture where right ethic in business, social respect, livable wages and safe working conditions are very important part of the equation. We have to fight for all of them.

    What do you think about the Japanese market and where does it stand in the  plans for Wiser Wash .

    Japanese market since long time is been leading the indigo and denim business blending the indigo Japanese culture and tradition with the American vintage. The result of this is an incredible and unique denim culture that is been inspiring us all the time and for sure will continue with the generations to come. However the global business is changing dramatically in term of distribution, numbers, innovation, technology and product development. This obviously has an impact also in Japan and requires that the domestic industry and the brands find new answers. Those answers are coming now also from a different method of work, they are not coming any more from one of few brands but from a â€œwork together  system where we share research and technology and we bring benefits to all. In particular the sustainability and circularity are a challenge that are in the hands of all of us. For many different reasons I feel that Japan is a little bit behind in the eco projects, So my approach bringing Wiser Wash to Japan is, as a first step, to show the potential of this technology applied to Japanese fabrics and brand and then to develop collaborations that can bring to the traditional strength of denim market a new important segment that will be the future for all of us.

    Much younger persons than yourselves like me find it difficult to have the energy and passion that you have at age of 78 . Would you like to share some secrets so that it can inspire us to contribute more to the industry and society like yourselves  🙂 

    First, I am only 76 ! What is driving me is the passion for the business and that I  feel that I have to contribute up to my last minute to inspire people and make our world a better place for the new generations.

    Register for Denimsandjeans Japan and check out most wonderful technologies and products from our exhibitors globally . Follow the link

  • Sustainability Efforts by LNJ – A Talk With Suketu Shah – Head LNJ Denim

    Sustainability Efforts by LNJ – A Talk With Suketu Shah – Head LNJ Denim

    LNJ denim is a part of the RSWM Ltd., the flagship company of LNJ Bhilwara Group.  The group exports its yarns and fabrics to over 78 countries around the world. Their denim division is headed by  CEO Mr Suketu Shah . We spoke to him about the various aspects of Indian denim industry , their company and specially their efforts in sustainability- where they a special focus . We bring a part of the discussion below : 

    1. RSWM group has a long history in Indian textile industry. Please tell us about its background and how LNJ denim has developed as part of this group.

      RSWM Limited, the flagship company of LNJ Bhilwara group, founded in 1961, is one of the largest textile manufacturers in the country, primarily producing the best quality of yarns like synthetic, blended, melange, cotton, speciality yarns and the value added – suiting and Denim fabric. The denim division “LNJ Denim” was established in 2007 and has a installed capacity of 25.0 MMA. Over the last 13 years since its existence, the denim division has earned good reputation among the international and domestic brands, as an innovative and quality denim fabric supplier.

    2. When did LNJ started to seriously think about working on sustainability and how did the process go ahead?

      Sustainability initiative has always been within the radar of LNJ Denim since its existence. As a responsible corporate the group has been investing towards this initiative few being – garnetting machine for recycling used garments, wind/solar/hydro energy for running its processes to reduce carbon emissions. LNJ denim is a Zero Liquid Discharge with a robust ETP which helps in treating all the effluents & recycling the water, saving more than 486 Kilo litres of water per annum. Apart from these process/technology initiatives the product development team ( Referred as DIG – Denim Intelligence Group) effectively works with many leading brands in developing eco-friendly products using organic / BCI cotton or bio-degradable manmade fibres.

    3. ECO’ VERSE is the new sustainable collection that you have created. What is special about it and how does it address the 3 Rs REDUCE RECYCLE and REUSE?

      Ecoverse is the sustainability part of our SS21 collection which has been created using products which are designed with various eco-friendly concepts.. There would be products using fibres like Hemp, Ecovero, Refibra, Livaeco which are generated using sustainable processes & are bio-degradable reducing load on the landfills. Few products are developed using the recycle poly made from pet bottles or recycle cotton fibre made from post consumer used garments. Also included are products made from Natural indigo.
      An Interview With Mr Suketu Shah - Head–LNJ Denim ( Fabric)

    4. You mention that LNJ Is among the most innovative global denim companies. Why do you feel so?

      LNJ with its strong marketing and design teams work very closely with many international and national level brands regularly on various innovative concepts & collections. With more than 60% of the capacity been sold to brands across the globe, the teams are well aligned & pushed for innovations 24*7.

    5. Indian industry has been going through a tough phase with oversupply and restrained demand affecting growth. How has LNJ come out over these times and how do you see the near future?

      Yes looking at the unbalanced demand-supply ratio specially in denims, the industry has been going through a tough phase over the last 4 years. This was further accentuated by few policy modifications like demonetisation & later GST implementation which resulted in complete drought specially in domestic market. LNJ was no exception and like all other players struggled in these tough times. However with its balanced customer-mix, continued product innovations, controlled production & inventory, LNJ has been able to sail through, still far from expectations but somehow managing to stay-foot to survive this turbulence. The industry is far from normalcy till the demand-supply equation is balanced, unless you are have a robust customer network, product innovations and controlled costs its difficult to survive. LNJ continues to work on these principles and hopefully things will improve going forward.

    6. You have a very long experience in the Indian denim industry and have contributed significantly to some of the best companies in the industry. How do you think the industry has changed in the last 2 decades?

      Industry has changed dramatically in last few years. It is purely on Indian trade market more inclined towards Knit look products and very clean products with good stretch levels for comfort. It has completely moved on higher width and more darker shade requirements.
      But at the same time 3/1 is still equally prominent with all the brands in place and it has equivalent share in the market. Quality , services, new developments, sustainability, price etc are given parameters for good players.

    7. What 3 products from LNJ stable would you say address the key global denim trends .

      Currently products using sustainable fibres like Hemp, Ecovero & also the one developed using Bio-indigo are key hot trends globally.

      An Interview With Mr Suketu Shah - Head–LNJ Denim ( Fabric)
      An Interview With Mr Suketu Shah - Head–LNJ Denim ( Fabric)
      An Interview With Mr Suketu Shah - Head–LNJ Denim ( Fabric)

    Contact LNJ Denim for more info ashish.bhatnagar@lnjbhilwara.com

  • Sustainability Chat With Alberto Candiani

    Sustainability Chat With Alberto Candiani

    Candiani is one of the most well known global denim mills. Only one of the few denim mills still in EU, Candiani has always been a path breaker and has not only shown how to survive in difficult conditions but how to actually convert difficulties into opportunities and tak

    One such wonderful opportunity has recently been created by the company in the form of innovative natural rubber stretch yarn – Coreva . The yarn opens up new vistas in the denim industry and we spoke to Alberto Candiani on how he came up with this development and how he plans to use it .

    Congratulations Alberto on creating the groundbreaking technology ‘Coreva’ . With natural rubber stretch, this can be a great contributor to the sustainability goals of companies. How did you think about creating it?

    Creation starts with a vision, an intuition that eventually needs to be turned into something real. This particular vision also comes with a pretty funny story too. I was looking into natural rubber already in 2014 as a possible solution to bio-degradable stretch Denim. Synthetic elastomers do not bio-degrade. In fact, I was obsessed with the idea that Denim and mainly stretch Denim (which is Candiani’s specialty) should be a bio-degradable material and eventually compostable.

    This is because I strongly believe the overflowing of landfills is currently one of the biggest issues the fashion industry faces and PCR is not quite there yet in order to make a relevant impact. So, one day I was shopping for cold cuts in my favorite delicatessen and I realized that the netting around the actual salami was a very bouncy elastic rope. That caught my attention and that’s how it all started. Of course, that specific rubber type couldn’t work for my purpose, but it led me to research in the right direction. As I said, the vision doesn’t come with a manual or instructions and it’s for this using reason why it took us years to fine-tune the actual technology, patent it and ensure its scalability.

     In technical terms how is Coreva different from spandex.

    Coreva is a plant-based elastic made out of natural rubber while spandex (or common elastomers) are composed of synthetic polymers and are petrol-based. So, the main differences to be underlined are that Coreva is a bio-degradable stretch technology coming from renewable sources. Of course, part of the innovative aspect is the fact Coreva is processed through a smart vulcanization process that ensures bio-degradability, embedding durability and performance into the Coreva yarns at the same time.

     You have collaborated with Denham for launching this unique product. How has their launch been and the response on the same?

     We needed a partner to finalize the R&D process at the garment stage, someone we could trust and rely on.  That is why we selected Denham. Jason is a friend who shares the same passion for Denim and innovation as I do, and he’s always been a loyal Candiani customer. We also required secrecy and loads of patience. Denham started to play with this new technology, crafting some Jeans with the Coreva technology, we washed them and tested everything you can think of in our Design Centers, in Milan and Los Angeles.

    The launch happened to be in Japan at the re-opening of Parco, a marvelous department store in Shibuya (Tokyo) where Denham has a prime spot. The reaction has been great, there is a lot of hype. We made a custom selvedge item with Coreva exclusively for Denham and it did catch the attention of everyone, even the roughest Denim-heads, and the purists because no one has ever seen a natural stretch fabric before.

    You have been at the forefront of many Green Initiatives. What else Candiani is currency focusing on in terms of reducing their environmental footprint?

    One of our main concerns is always water. We are looking to reduce the amount of general water use and the water we may waste. It’s our goal to increase the actual amount that can be recycled and re-used. There are multiple investments and interventions going on while we speak. Our focus is also on regenerative and regenerated materials and ingredients.

    Denim can be done much better with a much lower impact on the environment. That “simply” requires better ingredients, smarter technologies, extreme R&D, a circular industrial approach and some crazy efforts in order to try to stay competitive. The Kitotex® technology, for instance, has been a true revelation in this sense: a smart ingredient which through its “out-of-the-box” application made us discharge much less and much cleaner water, getting rid of all those nasty chemicals normally utilized to size the yarns, that might generate micro-plastics.

    Fashion has undergone great change over the last 2 decades. We have seen denim fashion evolving with Premium denims coming strongly, then fast fashion really taking things over and now there is an increasing awareness against its ill effects. How do you think the industry will move in the next 2-3 years.

     We all agree the new “premium” is sustainable innovation. We should always keep in mind the word “premium” comes from the premium price consumers are willing to pay for better quality. I believe the consumer is now demanding better products, cleaner products and most of the people are willing to spend a little more to get something better. But that something needs to come with a story, explanation and proof of what makes that something “premium”, otherwise how can the consumer differentiate between true innovation and greenwashing.

    At Candiani we’ve always known how to make beautiful fabrics, the challenge was keeping the aesthetic while achieving a much lower impact on the environment during production. I believe the future is about regenerated and regenerative materials. For sure the next 2-3 years will see major improvements coming on the PCR (post-consumer recycled) side. 2020 was meant to be the year of the change but not many mills and brands really made it. Most of the industry will catch up, what I keep repeating is that we need true innovation to make a big change, not just marketing. Transparency and traceability will also be huge factors in the next couple of years and will certainly help to clear up some of the massive greenwashing that took place in the past 5 years.

    Lack of universal criteria for sustainable productions leads to confusion in the minds of the consumers and they are not sure which claim is right and which is not. Do you think we will be able to evolve a single universal sustainability rating system that will be very easy to understand for them?

    I find this extremely difficult because there are too many factors to consider. Especially in the Denim industry. We are playing a global game where each player is given different rules. Most of the institutions, foundations, and certifiers involved in this mess are always missing this point.

    Since you are top of what is happening globally in denim, it would be great to know from you what would be the top 2-3 trends for denim for upcoming seasons.

    There is a little confusion right now. Authentic looks with great performance, rustic yarns, and shades, but I also see some more polished Denim being resurrected. Heavier weight and pretty twill lines, loads of Black Denim too.

    Your advice to the industry

    My advice is not to overproduce and whatever you may produce try to make it right because there is way too much crap out there. The number of jeans that goes to landfills even before reaching the stores is nuts, we are probably talking about 200MLN pairs every year. I know this is not going to sound very popular especially in our industry which is always seeking volumes and growth. Produce less, produce it better and try to stay competitive while telling your story honestly and transparently.

    Denimsandjeans Japan Show – March 4&5 | #designedinnovation

    Register at http://bit.ly/32X60y3 for the invitation.

  • Denimsandjeans Speaks To Guess And Lenzing Fibers On Their Recent Collab

    Denimsandjeans Speaks To Guess And Lenzing Fibers On Their Recent Collab

    This fall 2019, GUESS launched GUESS Eco: a collection for men and women made with environmentally conscious materials and manufacturing processes. The collection supports the brand’s sustainability goal to develop 25% of its denim and source 20% of its materials* according to its GUESS Eco guidelines by 2021. The GUESS Eco collection started in Europe in 2016 and is now offered globally every season.

    Utilizing water-saving techniques and environmentally friendly practices, all GUESS Eco denim this season, as well as select non-denim styles, features Lenzing’s TENCEL™ Lyocell. TENCEL™ branded fibers are derived from responsibly managed forests protected from illegal forest management practices.

    GUESS’s Eco Luxe denim, available in six different styles and washes, features TENCEL™ lyocell with REFIBRA™ technology – an innovative process that helps to reduce industry waste by upcycling cotton scraps from manufacturing. The brand’s classic 1981 Skinny and Sexy Curve fits have been developed with Eco Luxe denim fabrication, and can be outfitted with logo and graphic t-shirts and tanks made with 100% Organic cottons well knit tops and dresses made with Lenzing’s TENCEL™ Modal. For men, Eco Luxe slim tapered denim jeans in light to medium washes are seen alongside Super Skinny and Skinny style fits.

    “Guess Eco started as a grassroots initiative from our sustainability and product design teams, and has quickly grown into an important Company initiative. At GUESS we are responding with our resources and our strong commitment to change. The world is watching iconic brands like GUESS and asking ever more demanding questions about the impact we create with everything we do. Our promise is to make a conscious effort to offer high quality products designed with the environment and our communities in mind. I am very proud to see how our associates are using this incredible business as a force to make this world a better place.” – Carlos Alberini, CEO of GUESS?, Inc.

    “The evolution of the GUESS Eco denim to include TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ brings circularity to denim by utilizing cotton scraps without compromising quality or aesthetics. With the technology in fiber developments, GUESS is on a path to reduce its environmental footprint. We are pleased to partner with GUESS as they raise consumer awareness with educational messages across digital and retail platforms.” – Tricia Carey, Director of Global Business Development, Lenzing.

    Denimsandjeans Spoke to Guess and Tencel to understand more on this special collection :

    Q&A with Guess – Ms Cecilia Hands

    • You have a sustainability goal of reaching 25% denim and 20% of materials as per Guess Eco guidelines. Can you tell us more about it?
      Sustainability is a growing movement in our company and we wanted to set short term goals we could reach to benchmark our progress. So far, we are on track to meet or even exceed these goals. The 25% denim goal pertains only to GUESS Brand. The 20% materials portfolio goal pertains to all GUESS brands.
    • Please tell us the background of your collaboration with Tencel and how does this collaboration help you to achieve your sustainability goals recently unveiled?
      TENCEL is a branded, certified sustainable material from Lenzing. Lenzing is a preferred fiber provider because they are industry leaders in sustainable fiber production. Their processes are certified at every stage of the fiber production process as sustainably sourced, energy efficient and waste efficient.
    • How is Eco-Luxe Denim Collection different from your previous collections?
      The Eco Luxe Denim is a fresh iteration on our classic denim styles, with sustainable components that never compromise quality.
    • Do you have long term plans to reach higher goals of sustainability as some other brands are targeting?
      Our 2021 GUESS Eco goals are ambitious yet achievable. We intend to meet our goals so that we can set the bar higher for ourselves and our products in the long term. However, our sustainability reporting is third-party verified to assure the trust and integrity of reporting, which can sometimes require us to be more conservative than our peers, who do not have 3rd third party validation of their sustainability metrics.
    • Do you think the final consumer is ready to pay extra to buy sustainable denim even though a the cheaper but not sustainable option is readily available?
      Our goal is to recreate our classic styles in sustainable fabrics without compromising our price points. Although sustainable apparel can sometimes be more costly, we strive to offer our customers a luxury experience at accessible pricing.

    Q&A with Lenzing Fibers (Tencel) – Ms Tricia Carey

    • Lenzing has been working hard towards increasing the sustainability of the global fashion industry. How important is a collaboration with Guess in this direction?
      It was important to collaborate with Guess to support their strategic goals lowering the environmental impact, without compromising style and quality.  Guess established a viable fiber strategy, as well as an educational platform for their team.  Throughout the development process the Guess team was inquisitive and eager to learn.
    • Your most products have different elements of sustainability. Refibra is one of them. Can you enumerate how you would rank your own products from a sustainable angle?
      The Lenzing portfolio of fibers includes LENZING™ ECOVERO™ viscose, TENCEL™ Modal and Lyocell; all produced under our global pulp policy.  We offer manmade cellulosic options to support the sustainability strategies of brands and retailers across various product categories and price levels.  One of our latest developments is TENCEL™ Lyocell with  REFIBRA™  technology bringing circularity to textiles using cotton scraps to make new TENCEL™ lyocell fibers.  There is no compromise to strength or comfort with TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Denim.
    • How good, do you think, is the march of the global denim industry towards sustainability?
      Each season the denim industry is attempting to tackle the global sustainability challenges from fiber to finished products to consumer use. It is complex to address the water, chemical, energy, social issues and more impacting the denim industry.  At the same time we are faced with the factors of increased consumption, investment costs, greenwashing and price demands.  There certainly is a realization that we have to change our ways during this era of global sustainability revolution.

    Here are some images from the launch of Guess Eco Luxe Denim Collection :

  • A Talk With Dr Hung , CEO PPJ Vietnam

    A Talk With Dr Hung , CEO PPJ Vietnam

    Dr Hung – CEO of PPJ International company-  from Vietnam is a visionary person who in a short period of 12 years has taken his company from a small operation to the largest producer of denim apparel in Vietnam. With a vision to change Vietnam Textile and Garment Industry in to a world powerhouse of excellence, Dr Hung and his team has been working hard towards achieving these objectives.

    Dang Vu Hung is currently a Member of Management Board, as well as Deputy General Director of Vietnam Textile and Garment Group; Chairman of Member Board of Northern Textile and Garment Corporation; Chairman and CEO of PPJ. A PHD in Textile Technology from Belgium he is known as a pioneer and a visionary mentor who has revolutionized the mindset of traditional garment industry. Staring with a humble beginning at Phong Phu international PPJ in 2007 to be the biggest and most innovative, sustainable supplier today is a journey of passion, vision and determination which are the fundamentals of PPJ enterprise. We spoke to him on a variety of issues pertaining to Vietnam and his company’s growth in the last decade or so. 

    Interview Session With Dr. Vu Hung Dang, CEO PPJ By Denimsandjeans

    Interview Session With Dr. Vu Hung Dang, CEO PPJ By Denimsandjeans

    1. PPJ has come a long way in last 10 years. How do you think the journey evolved which enabled the company to reach such heights in a short period?

    PPJ started as a traditional garment manufacturer like any other, the difference was that we were curious to learn and evolve as fashion is ever changing .We have a vision to be a Global Brand and for that we structured our self to be a “One stop solution “Vertical Mills / State of the art factory / Sustainable laundry and an infusion of software in production /planning /warehousing has shifted the game by 360 degrees.

    We also pride in our people from multi-cultural back ground who are immensely talented. A great company is built with right vision/people/technology and we have all of this in our mix. Today when customers and Brand think of Vietnam; PPJ is the fore front leader.

    2. You are now the most successful Vietnam owned company who has run well the end-to-end supply chain solutions.How can you help the other companies to change their model from CM to ODM form like yours in order to escape CM life?

    Vietnam garment industry was a traditional industry last 20 years with a CM mindset as the Retail evolved with customer mindset influenced by the internet the brands looked at partners who could bring in novelty, innovation , supply chain solutions and PPJ was ahead of the game and became the “Easy Button “. Once this model was successful the other companies also saw the benefit and progress and changed their mindset accordingly.

    3. Your Innovation Center is amazing facility and I understand it creates over 25,000 garments in a month for sampling and test order purpose. What was the vision behind creating this unique center for the global denim buyers to come and experiment for their requirements?

    Innovation is the Soul of the company , it’s the engine which drives the creativity and the reason why we are ahead of the game.It’s a perfect world of Green building /Robots /E Flow/Laser/Ozone /Smart Lab/ 3D Technologywith washing /stitching /embroidery/Novelty Embellishments… all under oneroof .

    This is the Holy Grail where the doors are open to designers, innovators to create history our dedicated design team has been able to teach and mold many fashion trends .Many of the iconic designers have worked in our facility on concept to final product.It would not come as a surprise to see PPJ as a Brand in the future.

    4. PPJ has strong focus on sustainability. What are the key initiatives you are focusing on in this regard and what are future targets in this regard?

    Earth has no substitute it’s our endeavor to preserve and offer a better planet to the generations ahead .Key focus are Water reducing / recycling by 96%. Green chemicals which benefit consumers and are very less pollution to the environment. We are investing heavily in Solar energy, robotics.

    Most important we are working very closely with Brands in implementing best practices of sustainability .Responsible manufacturing is being inculcated in every employee of PPJ

    5. I understand that your new unit of 20,000 garments per day is being set up with only 200 workers and high level of automation. This would be a great achievement. What kind of automations are being used for this facility and do you plan to extend this further?

    This is our dream project which in already in the works .Technology of Precision Engineering /Robotics /Advanced machinery/DCS system would be put together to achieve this .We have a R&D machine center which modifies and creates new value added fixtures to reduce manpower by 50% or higher. This will revolutionize garment industry from manual to machine independent /error prone manufacturing.

    6. PPJ is working with a number of globally reputed customers. What customers you are currently working with and also targeting to add in 2019-2020.

    PPJ has a large USA presence of reputed brands as American Eagle Outfitters,Express,Abercombie& Fitch, Target,Pacsun ,Chico’s ,Rock Revival, Urban outfitters…Our focus now will be to add new customers who believe in sustainability and also make rapid inroads into other parts of the world.We would have offices /manufacturing /design centers globally.

    7. Your units are spread out in different provinces in Vietnam. How PPJ supply chain management does ensure a smooth offering to all customers with great versatility of products?

    Supply Chain starts from Raw material to finished product at customer DC .For us it is from Raw material to customer .We have 4 divisions

    • Denim division: in HCMC
    • Woven division: in Danang
    • Knit division: in Hue
    • Suits & Outerwear: in Hanoi

    We have a robust tracking software implemented across the cross functional line from Yarn to final product this is combined with an integrated module of vertical fabric / sewing / laundry. This gives us a read and react scenario and efficiently reduce the dwell time

    8. Why do you think Vietnam is becoming an important sourcing destination for many global brands? What are the key strengths of Vietnam which are helping in this regard?

    Vietnam exports textile and apparel to the countries and territories around the world and ranks at the 3rd place of global supply chain just after China and India. Garment production accounts for 70% and textile manufacturing accounts for 30% of the total businesses in this sector and there is 85 % of export. Main markets for Vietnam textile and garment products are U.S., Europe, Japan and South Korea, China … For a long time, the U.S. has remained the largest importer of Vietnamese textiles and garments, followed by Europe and Japan, which has led to rapid development of the country’s textile and garment industry. Besides the lower labor costs, Vietnam has also good skilled workers for high-end garments.

    The industry’s exports value will estimate to reach US$ 40 billion this year 2019 and around US$ 45 billion by 2020. Although exports are predicted to grow, Vietnamese manufacturers need to focus on value addition. Vietnam continues to depend on raw imports, which makes it harder for firms to take full advantage of the free trade agreements with tough “rules of origin” conditions.In addition, rising labor costs in China are pushing firms to countries like Cambodia, Bangladesh, and Vietnam which has been beneficial for the industry.

    Stability, skilled man power , infrastructure and social /political situations in surrounding countries are influencing Vietnam to be One of leading players in today’s market .

    9.How do you foresee the treaties like CPTPP (already initiated) and upcoming ones like EVFTA affecting growth of apparel exports from Vietnam and its further evolution. Is that the reason for you to take charge of some leading positions in different manufactures of Vinatexat the same time?

    Vietnam’s bilateral and multilateral FTAs continue to provide Vietnamese manufactures access to new markets, minimizing the effect of growing trade protectionism. With new FTAs is in effect such as the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP) from 1 January 2019 and Vietnam – EU FTA will be estimated to put into effect by 2020, new markets will lead to higher exports and push manufacturers to develop the industry’s supply chain so that Vietnam can take full advantage of the preferential tariffs and increase the competitiveness of their products.

    That is why Phong Phu’s ODM successful module is being replicated in garment enterprises of Vinatex which is making a big impact in the fabric /Garment sector.

    Interview Session With Dr. Vu Hung Dang, CEO PPJ By Denimsandjeans

    Interview Session With Dr. Vu Hung Dang, CEO PPJ By Denimsandjeans

    Interview Session With Dr. Vu Hung Dang, CEO PPJ By Denimsandjeans