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Category: Interviews

  • Indigo Museum | Sanjay Lalbhai – CMD Arvind – Speaks About His Pet Project

    Indigo Museum | Sanjay Lalbhai – CMD Arvind – Speaks About His Pet Project

    Arvind had recently come up with a most unique INDIGO MUSEUM that aims to extend the vocabulary of Indigo into spaces and possibilities never explored earlier.This museum seeks to revive and nurture traditional art forms and bring a contemporary interpretation of these with indigo, thereby benefiting the artisans and an entire ecosystem. With know-how to impart indigo on a variety of surfaces like metal, stone, wood and many more, Arvind Indigo Museum seeks to push the boundaries of innovation with Indigo into newer areas and disciplines but also deliver social impact, in line with the core philosophy Arvind stands for. The coverage of materials with Indigo is so profound that we will need to publish a few articles to do justice to the work done in this museum by craftsmen all over the world and we will be doing this over next few days.

    Indigo museum has been the pet project of Sh Sanjay Lalbhai – CMD Arvind . He has been personally driving this project with a passion that is rare to seek. We spoke to him to find out more about his vision and achievements in this direction and would like to bring the same  to our readers.

    How did the concept of applying Indigo in so many diverse applications come to your mind?

    It is just because of our history as we were responsible for bringing denim to this country. I have been associated since a long-time way back in 1988. It almost reinvented ARVIND and my carrier also took an upturn because of denims; I have been associated with this product and denim is what it is because of this wonderful dyed indigo. We had opened the Kasturibhai Lalbhai Museum and my grand father had also opened the Lalbhai Dalpatbhai museum,so we have a tradition of sharing whatever is valuable as collection to public.

    The idea came to me that, if I can create a platform using indigo and that too national indigo, then it would be a unique thing that allows artisans and artists to express their creativity through various mediums . And now that when thought came , one of the limiting factors was that the indigo has being imparted mainly on fabrics. So I further thought that if we can extend it to many other substrates then the ability of artists to express themselves through more mediums would become possible and that would be unique in a way and will attract more people to come and visit this museum because it is something unique.

    It’s an innovation which has not been done before and it is also exciting for artists and artisans because it is co-creation, when you start you don’t know what you will get and what will be the outcome because no one has done it before So there is that excitement of trying to do something which is never been done before and express your creativity through a new medium. So, in that way it has been a very interesting experiment and we have showcased that in a years’ time we have been able to use so many different materials.

    So, we’ll keep on extending this,from lifestyle to various mediums and we would really like to engage with artisans as there are so many brilliant crafts which exist in this country and there are so many brilliant artisans also.The objective is also to give them livelihood so that their next generation will also come into this and extend this tradition.

    However, I feel that, we have to make the Indian crafts more contemporary which can cater to the global audience and Indigo enables that. We see this as on going exercise to create the whole ecosystem where underlying theme is INDIGO. So that’s the vision and whoever has worked on it has loved the medium.

    We have also been surprised at how such beautiful things can come out of it. Its a very rewarding exercise and just a beginning-lots of things have to be done in the future.

    Considering all the technical difficulties, especially applying indigo to metal, glass, acrylic, stone and so many other mediums, it’s a huge achievement in a short period of one year. How do you see it?

    Yes, it is!

    Now the glass ceramic, I will show you, these are all absolutely new technologies we are using. We have failed many times. However, we keep on trying new recipes and new ways of imparting it,new way to impregnate various surfaces with indigo .

    But when you attempt it you also don’t know how we are going to succeed. But you have to keep on trying hard to understand why it’s not working and then you have to try hard to see that how do we make it possible. So, yeah  it’s a journey.

    In this whole journey of applying indigo on diverse applications, how did you see the nature of natural indigo evolve and change?

    Yes, it does change,because with oxygen it will fade and oxidize. So,it is a natural living dye that it is constantly changing unlike any other dye. One thing is that it is natural,when it comes from an agriculture crop, so you ferment the leaves, you take out the natural indigo.

    Green becomes blue and we are now trying that how do we extend the vocabulary even of the blue by mixing other natural dyes and creating a whole new palette but the underlying base would be only indigo. So, the possibilities are endless, it reacts differently with different mediums when it gets exposed to sun, when it gets exposed to air, it reacts differently. So yes ,it is all the time changing evolving ,living dye which is very exciting and it gives different hues which no other blue can give neither can any other color give.

    Would be you be adding any more mediums?

    Yes,and this will be an endless exercise and we are not restricting it, because you must have seen that we have 5 foreign artists who have worked on different mediums and created masterpieces. So,we will get artists and artisans from all over the world, and this museum will become a unique thing that these people will be contributing to with an underlying theme of indigo.

    All these experiments which have been happening here, do you think this will also create a lot of opportunities in industrial applications?

    Yes, because we will be able to extend this to every lifestyle.What we have done with clothes can be done with accessories,home textile, sanitary wear or the buildings etc, and to make it look good it has to be affordable and if it is too pricey and elite,then it will remain restricted.

    Further, it can be also used for luxury brands which will really get used to it. But we also want that it remains affordable and can be used by everybody. For example- a pair of jeans-it’s very affordable,very user-friendly product,it is very light and very low on weight.

    Similarly,we would like to bring that practical aspect where,whenever we impart indigo and when we extend the product’s life cycle or use indigo in different lifestyles,it has to be usable, affordable, unique and pleasing.

    What is the sustainable angle in this project?

    It’s very sustainable because there is no other dye which is so therapeutic. This is anti-bacteria ; you can consume it.It is US FDA approved. Mr. Abu Bakar who has done those installation-he’s been practicing all his life ; he’s worked on within indigo. So, he told me that in Mali (he’s from Mali-in Africa) that when a newborn baby arrives in this world,he/she is wrapped in such indigo cloths  because it is anti-bacteria and when a person dies then also he/she is also wrapped in an indigo cloth because it is considered a spiritual thing.So, it is such a brilliant thing : here is a dye which is good, otherwise all chemicals are harmful.It is a natural dye and it is completely sustainable which is good to consume in any way. It’s really unique.

    It is absolutely sustainable like khadi we have made (which is hand spun and hand dyed and is natural indigo,no fossil fuel is used,hand-woven. It is the oldest denim designed in memory of Gandhiji).So, we have produced this khadi denim which is now globally available- Levi’s has sold it globally and it is absolutely sustainable. It does not use any kind of fossil fuel in manufacturing, everything is natural.

    One of the things about natural indigo which restricts its increased usage is the cost .Do you think that over a period of time we can have improvements in this area to make it more cost effective?

    We are working on it. We are going to the farmers – understand where the costs are and how can we improve the crop yield. How can we improve the concentration of indigo. Because when we use natural indigo,it has 40% concentration.So, the cost almost doubles. But we have not really worked on it. Now that we have started working , we will go to the farmers and really get some different varieties grown.

    We are trying and ensure that we get highest yield. And then we can figure out whether we can bridge this cost between synthetic and natural. Even if we are not able to bridge it- we really want to make it more rewarding for the farmers. And we really want to produce authentic natural indigo which ARVIND can sign so there is no mixing of any kind of synthetic Indigo in that. So at least we can ,with assurance, sell indigo which is hundred percent natural because we will want to be personally selling it after procuring from the farm where the entire supply chain is controlled by us to ensure purity .Otherwise something cheap can easily get mixed up with something which is expensive.

    And then the synthetic Indigo is not good for the body and it is not like natural indigo. It is harmful. So of course, when Indigo is used in many other different mediums. I’m sure that such projects will create a bigger demand for indigo.As a result of which, it will be a reward for farmers. It is a socially responsible project.

    The application of natural indigo has been in certain way as used in denim .Will that be enhanced due to your experiments?

    We were the first company to use natural indigo and market khadi denim. We will be the first people to use it on room furnishings ,drapes and carpets etc . We have already extended it into these broader categories.

    In terms of application – lets say can technical application be improved so that it can be applied faster.

    We have mainly used various techniques for our project. Our emphasis has been non-profit and creating the unique museum. But now we find that it is a very appealing product and it can be commercialized. So we will explore that possibility .Unless something can be commercially produced- nothing will become affordable. It will remain boutique. If it is really boutique it will remain a craft. So in some ways we will succeed and in some ways we may not but home furnishing definitely will see success. And we have tried it now on everything steel, wool, synthetic, linen, all blends. So everything is possible.

    I think you’re coming up with the bigger museum out here as per the model out there.So that is going to be big one with over 25,000 sq feet of space ?

    Yes. We will set up a large museum as we are saying that this should be an on going project which would not have an end because this is constantly working with some of the best creative minds all over the world and has infinite possibilities.

    Would you like to take this museum globally?

    Yes,We would like to show it in various countries so that more people will come to know more about it. We also like to raise resources for this museum. So we require patronage, we also require people who really believe in it and want to contribute to it because its a public museum.

    So anyone who’s committed to this ecosystem we can give them certain naming rights and other things. They can also contribute.

    Any message for indigo lovers all around the world?

    I think it is one passion which one should pursue because it’s one fabric which is globally accepted.It cuts across all castes, creeds, and genders. And it is a very universally accepted product. So liking something like this is very natural and which is good for every one and it is affordable. It gives us so much joy. Everything is good about this.

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  • Murtaza Ahmed- MD Artistic Milliners – Speaks About Sustainability , CSR & More..

    Murtaza Ahmed- MD Artistic Milliners – Speaks About Sustainability , CSR & More..

    Interview with Murtaza Ahmed–MD ,Artistic Milliners PVT LTD. | Denimsandjeans

    Artistic Milliners (AM)  from Pakistan is one of the most reputed global denim conglomerates . With a history of over 70 years, the group has been continuously evolving and contributing to the development of textile and apparel industry in Pakistan and around the world. A strong focus on R&D and sustainability keeps the group always looking to the future. With a number of ground breaking initiatives , it has captured global headlines in the industry. AM’s contribution to global sustainability efforts and also CSR inspired us to know more what the company is doing in this direction and we spoke with Mr Murtaza Ahmed , Managing Director at Artistic Milliners , who shared his vision and achievements in this direction.

    Artistic Milliners has done a lot on sustainable front. As you are both a fabric and garment manufacturer, the efforts have to be taken on both fronts. What are your focus areas for these efforts?

    Artistic Milliners has a holistic approach towards sustainability: our major focus areas for the next few years are water stewardship, renewable energy and worker well being. We have set clear goals in each area along with arranging the necessary budgets and human resource to ensure we achieve our desired 2025 goals.

    Crystal Clear Indigo as you defined for indigo dyeing – how does this process help to save water and chemicals and how much?

    Crystal Clear is a revolutionary technology not only because it eliminates waste at the design stage but also because of its scalability. The process is open sourced at Cradle to Cradle Product Innovation Library and we take pride in the fact that since 2017 a lot of companies have adopted this process and this method has really spurred the industry in a new direction.

    The process reduces water consumption at the dyeing stage by 20%, chemicals by 70% and generates effluent that is 100% recyclable.

    Interview with Murtaza Ahmed–MD ,Artistic Milliners PVT LTD. | Denimsandjeans

    Artistic Milliners Waste Water Facility

    I believe you are already using almost 100% sustainable cotton for your entire denim fabric production. Is it so?

    100% is an absolute figure but yes most of the cotton we source is BCI, Organic or PCW. This is also driven by clients demand. Also, cotton is not the only option. There are lots of alternative fibers available including tencel and reprieve etc. We have also worked on a project of Zero Cotton- in a bid to reduce denim’s industry dependency on water.

    With Pakistan’s certifying its first organic cotton bale earlier this year, we are working with our strategic clients to adopt more homegrown organic cotton and also to increase traceability and transparency of our sourced cotton.

    You were the first to get the Cradle to Cradle Gold certification for denim fabric. Are these fabrics now your regular production and how do you plan to develop them further?

    Developing the World’s first Cradle to Cradle Gold certified denim was certainly a challenge because it involved many new steps and considerations. Following that, we have developed a range of other C2C fabrics in silver, bronze and basic lines and by 2025, we plan to cover all of our products under C2C umbrella.

    Coming to garments, how is the Closed Loop Manufacturing project being undertaken by you and with what results? 

    Artistic Milliners was the first company in Pakistan to commence work on post-consumer waste denim in 2014. In 2017, we brought the PCW plant technology in-house. PCW is a great initiative- it has educated the industry and it has tackled the problem of waste to a certain limited extent. However, there are technological limitations in terms of strength and durability and the percentage of recycled content in PCW fabric.

    Are Lasers, Ozone and other washing methods now a regular part of garment production for you? Any numbers on production through these processes?

    Absolutely, lasers, ozone, and other machinery including e-flow machines are an integral part of our laundry. At the moment we have the largest laser capacity in Pakistan with a daily production of 30,000 pieces/day made from laser machines. We are also early adopters of the F.L.X operating model launched by Levi’s in 2018. Currently, 30% of our daily production is made with lasers with a goal to enhance this share to 90% within 2019. We are not only using lasers to automate the dry process function in the laundry but also to eliminate PP spray which we all know is hazardous for both the environment and operators who are applying this chemical. Same goes for Ozone and e-flow technologies.

    Not only are we using the latest hardware technologies available to us we are also working with chemical vendors on reducing water consumption in the laundry through combining multiple steps in the washing process. We have had some good success here and I am happy to say that we have reduced our water consumption by 30% in the last one year while increasing output. If we quantify this that’s a saving of approximately 300,000 gallons of water per day!

    What is about the Eco-Tech unit that you have developed. Is it the LEED-certified plant you have or does it mean upgradation of other units?

    Our latest garment factory will be certified LEED platinum by early April this year. This will be Pakistan’s first platinum factory and builds on our commitment to develop world-class infrastructure. As you know we built Pakistan’s first LEED GOLD facility in 2014 which had a wonderful impact on the industry with other factories the following suit.

    This latest factory will have a capacity of 25,000 garments per day.

    Interview with Murtaza Ahmed–MD ,Artistic Milliners PVT LTD. | Denimsandjeans

    Interview with Murtaza Ahmed–MD ,Artistic Milliners PVT LTD. | Denimsandjeans

    What are some noteworthy features of this prospective LEED Platinum facility?

    50% of the building’s energy requirement will be met by solar energy. The wastewater treatment plant installed is biological eliminating the hazard of chemical sludge at the source. 85% of the water is recycled and looped back to the system.

    Eco-Tech is LEED Platinum and much more- in addition to ensuring that building’s environmental footprint is minimized, the facility is a hallmark of latest tech innovations housing both The SMART Laundry and automated stitching machines.

    A state of the art daycare center over an area of 4500 sq. feet is being set up with consultants that are accredited both by the US Department of Youth and Family Services and US Department of Education.

    In short, the Eco-Tech unit incorporates the finest of designs and technologies with regards to performance, sustainability, and human comfort.

    Energy is a very important input in manufacturing. You are already working with wind and solar power. How much contribution to energy comes from clean sources for you?

    We are certainly taking incremental steps towards clean and renewable energy targeting an additional 1.4 MW of solar in our factories. However, what is more, remarkable is that Artistic Milliners have invested in establishing a Wind Power Plant of 50 MW in Karachi. We are committed to investing more next year in solar, hydel and hybrid projects. Interestingly, Artistic Milliners as a group offsets 48% more greenhouse gases then what it emits.

    Interview with Murtaza Ahmed–MD ,Artistic Milliners PVT LTD. | Denimsandjeans

    Zero liquid discharge by 2020 is probably one of your sustainable goals. That would be a very good achievement. Can you also summarize your other sustainable goals for the next few years?

    Zero Liquid discharge is a demonstration of how serious we are to minimize our water impacts. But this is not the endpoint. Water remains at the top of our sustainability agenda. For the next few years, we will be working with experts in the field to set science-based water targets in the context of our local catchments. On the social side also, we have set internal targets on promoting diversity and inclusion at our workplaces.

    We are focused on driving our efforts on sustainability through automation and R&D. Industry 4.0 also holds a lot of answers on how the denim industry can reduce resource consumption and maintain quality and performance.

    Interview with Murtaza Ahmed–MD ,Artistic Milliners PVT LTD. | Denimsandjeans

    Can you elaborate your plans on the social front? Artistic Milliners is a leader on women empowerment – are there any new initiatives in-store with regards to furthering this cause?

    Last year has been phenomenal in terms of furthering the cause of women empowerment at workplaces. The IFC, World Bank published a case study on Artistic Milliners promoting women in leadership roles. We were also recognized by The Financial Times for our pioneering work on imparting life skills training to worker women.

    Currently, we continue to invest and expand in programs like Gap Inc. P.A.C.E. and levis Worker Wellbeing initiative to cover the majority of our women workforce. From T&D perspective, we are also establishing Artistic College of Technical Development which will be an educational wing of the company to train and educate the workers in several professional and personal development areas.

    Interview with Murtaza Ahmed–MD ,Artistic Milliners PVT LTD. | Denimsandjeans

    Interview with Murtaza Ahmed–MD ,Artistic Milliners PVT LTD. | Denimsandjeans

  • Coveross – A New Japanese Fabric Finishing Technology

    Coveross – A New Japanese Fabric Finishing Technology

    COVEROSS® technology” is multi-functional Japanese technology that can apply multiple benefits and functions onto a single fabric or garment. The technology aims to develop sustainable fabrics that are environment-friendly, multifunctional and custom-designed fabrics.

    It aims to bring the following functions to a single fabric

    • Eco-Cleaning– Even if there is no light or water, almost all the ammonia adhering to fabric is decomposed.
    • Thermal barrier- By suppressing the ultraviolet rays, it suppresses the rise in temperature inside clothes.
    • Energy recovery 
    • Cool touch – Provides cool feeling by vaporization heat effect due to high diffusivity
    • Deodorization 
    • Quicker absorption – Within 3 seconds
    • Sweat stain prevention – Without water repellant
    • Anti- pollen
    • Anti-pilling
    • Anti-Virus
    • Anti-Fungal
    • Anti-Static
    • Insect Repellent

    COVEROSS® ︎is the registered trademark of HAP Co. Ltd, Japan.

    Denimsandjeans spoke to Mr. Hap Suzuki , Owner of HAP Corporation, and tried to know more about how this technology works.

    unnamedCongratulations on creating a new technology COVEROSS WIZZRD for fabric finishing which gives 10 different functions to a fabric. Please elaborate on what are these and what benefits are possible due to them.

    COVEROSS® WIZZRD”  has ”10 comfortable functionalities” on a single fabric while maintaining the natural softness and breathability of 100% cotton, providing stress-free comfortable wear. By the action of titanium oxide or the like which is the catalyst particle (“W catalyst effect” of “photocatalyst” and “air catalyst”), oxidatively decomposes proteins that become the source of dirt and smell attached to the cloth itself. By having such a clean function, you can reduce the number of times of washing. Also, with the latest technology, comfort, cleanliness, freshness, etc. coexist in one fabric such as “heat shielding (3 to 5 ° C difference)”, “sweat reduction”, ” It is a highly functional material customized to your request.

    COVEROSS– A New Fabric Finishing Technology | Denimsandjeans

    How long you have been developing this new technology. We understand you already have Japanese Kaken test reports for this technology. Are the products commercially available?

    The development period is three years. We have started mass-production sales in the Japanese market since 2018.（Trial order is 2017）

    Please tell me the characteristics of the photocatalyst of COVEROSS® WIZZARD

    1 The photocatalyst is realized by ionic bonding technology without using a binder (binder may be used depending on purpose). Therefore, there are points not generating formalin, points hard to be brittle, points not hardening the texture, maintaining breathability, improving wash resistance, and so on.

    2 We have achieved high photocatalytic properties. Up to now, the concentration of the photocatalyst substance to be applied to the fiber fabric is limited to about 2%, but our company has realized the application at a concentration of over 10%. For that reason, we have achieved high numerical values (inspection association data) for each functionality.

    3 Hybrid give functionalities other than photocatalysts. For example, a combination with various effects such as form stability, antistatic, anti-pilling, far infrared effect etc. becomes possible.

    What are the different kind of fabrics that this can be applied? Is denim one of the important one of them?

    Of course, denim is also possible. It is possible with many materials such as cotton, rayon, polyester, nylon. We started out with knitted fabrics, but we are proceeding with the development of fabric materials.

    COVEROSS– A New Fabric Finishing Technology | Denimsandjeans

    COVEROSS SAI is also another technology from your stable where you add minerals to the US cotton fiber. What are the advantages of adding these minerals?

    By giving five minerals (called IR 414) to the fabric, it is expected that the flow of blood flow will be improved by high breeding rays (most affecting the human body in far infrared rays). By doing so, you can expect effects such as fatigue recovery effect, sleeping effect, high blood pressure measures and so on.

    How many home washes does this finishing hold for the consumer? Normally it has been seen that after 20 home washes most of the treatments are not so effective.

    By making full use of our latest technology, we will continue to function even at home laundry more than 30 times.

    COVEROSS® ︎

    How can a fabric manufacturer who wants to use your technology do so? Do you provide a license for the same or you sell fabrics yourselves?

    At the moment we will sell fabrics ourselves. Our multifunctional processing “COVEROSS” is currently producing in Indonesia. We have developed our own chemicals and production facilities independently. There are requests from many companies to provide processing technology, but we are refusing them now. The reason is that the machining process is very difficult and the engineers need to stay on site.

    Have any retail brands endorsed this technology? Will this entail usage of any kind of tags for the consumers to understand the technology?

    Yes, in order to explain functionality and sustainability, we have also created POPs, tags, posters, etc.

    Contact Mr. Hap Suzuki at moto.suzuki@hap-h.jp for more information.

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    Archroma Booth | Denimsandjeans Vietnam

  • What’s New In Mexico’s Denim Industry

    What’s New In Mexico’s Denim Industry

    This article is originaly written and published by Carvedinblue . The article brings the exclusive insights about the mexican denim industry and we brought you a synopsis of this . You can read the complete article from the link shared at the end of this article.

    With an updated trade agreement, prime positioning for speed to market and increasingly innovative denim, Mexico is on track to shine in 2019. To get the scoop on the denim scene in Mexico, Carved in Blue caught up with four key leaders in the space. Hear what Mike Stanisci, New York sales manager for Tavex USA, Kara Nicholas, VP of product design and marketing for Cone Denim, Anatt Finkler, head of design, creative director for Global Denim and Alvyda Kupinas, director of design at Kaltex America had to say.

    Carved in Blue: How has your business fared in light of the changes to NAFTA into the new USMCA—has it had any impact?

    Mike: We have not experienced any negative impacts, we actually have seen an increase in demand. I expect that to continue into 2019.

    Kara: Demand for our denim out of Mexico is very robust and all signs point towards a continued strong market for our denim made in Mexico.

    Anatt: At first everyone was really concerned with the idea of not knowing what would happen, so that uncertainty led to lack of trust from costumers and a slow, more careful, way of doing business. Right now, after the agreement on October, I would say the waters have calmed and everything is back on track, but it is still to be seen what happens after the agreement gets ratified in January and as the first months of the deal develop, but we are confident that it will be positive as the Mexican denim industry grows and moves forward into a brighter future.

    Alvyda: I feel that the agreement had settled some of the worries that were looming over the region in the recent months. The new agreement is quite seamless with the 24-year-old NAFTA. Call it USMCA or NAFTA 2.0…Meanwhile as a positive outcome, I can cite the increased interest in Mexico and North American region due to uncertainty on the tariffs targeting Asia.

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    Carved in Blue: What is the appeal for companies now when it comes to denim from Mexico?

    Mike: As always, speed to market is a key attribute of Mexico denim. However, we are seeing an increase in demand for women’s fabrics with high stretch and great recovery, fabrics with sophisticated blends, when historically, Mexico was looked at as men’s-only production. The investments made at Tavex in advanced spinning and fiber technologies has increased the demand for women’s fabrics in Mexico.

    Kara: In general, brands are drawn to Cone Denim’s authenticity and heritage along with the innovation and quality that we offer. The close proximity of Mexico to the end consumer in the U.S. offers greater speed to market and provides our partners with the ability to monitor the manufacturing process from fabric to finished garment as it relates to their supply chain and consumer demand and adjust as needed.

    Anatt: Mostly I find companies are realizing how good of a product we can develop in Mexico. Prejudices that were carried before are being blurred as the industry realizes how tech forward and advanced we are in the sector. Mostly I can say that one of the best advantages that people like is the close distance to the U.S. and duty free qualities as the need for speed to market grows and becomes crucial. Also, the quick reaction is a great advantage.

    Alvyda: I see our clients benefit most during the development trips to Mexico. Kaltex Denim mill, the finishing facilities, digital printing, cut, sew and laundry are all in one accessible working environment in close proximity to the U.S. A major benefit of being the full package supplier is a circular sustainable manufacturing, full library of fabrics and a pilot mill for small run developments that allows on-site development.

    To read more , please visit https://carvedinblue.tencel.com/whats-happening-in-mexicos-denim-industry/

  • Sustainability Targets Of Arvind – A Talk With Abhishek Bansal

    Sustainability Targets Of Arvind – A Talk With Abhishek Bansal

    Arvind is one of the most reputed textile group globally. It has been playing leadership role in various textile segments in including denims . Being the creator of the denim industry in India – which is now ranking second globally-  , it has always been looked upon as role model for various visionary technologies and projects which they envision. With sustainability becoming a clarion call in the apparel and textile industry, it was natural that Arvind would be one of the leading companies to take steps in this direction. We wanted to understand from them how important sustainability is for them and how they have set up a path to achieve their goals in this direction. We spoke to Abhishek Bansal (Head –Sustainability) to understand the efforts which have already been taken or are being envisaged to be taken in the near future.

    Arvind is one of the most well known and progressive denim groups globally. Does Arvind also look for leadership position when it comes to sustainability?

    Arvind aspires to be a leader on Sustainability issues not only within textile sector; but we look up for leaders across industrial sectors in each of the sustainability aspect and make those as role models for setting our goals and path forward. However, our focus is on lifting the whole industry up when it comes to sustainable issues. We are never going after exclusivity when it comes to sustainable technologies/projects. We openly share our knowledge and experience through various platform and through our sustainability report. We are also part of various initiatives like Sustainable Apparel Coalition, ZDHC and Apparel impact institute to drive larger industry wide changes.

    What are the specific areas where you feel Arvind is better placed to take up sustainability efforts when we consider the eco system in India? Please give us some updates on the results achieved in some of them.

    One of our core focus is on removing the dependence of textile on fresh water. It has deep value in the context of water scarcity and water availability scenario. Over the past years, we have removed our dependence on freshwater to extent of 70%. We use 70% of our water from recycled waste water. We are targeting to achieve 90% with-in next two years. We are also investing heavily in promoting sustainable cotton farming and have scaled our farm operations to produce sustainable cotton equivalent to 40% of our production and targeting to increase this by four time by end of 2022.

    Sustainability | Arvind

    That’s a great achievement . How did you do it and how does it translate into per meter usage?

    The efforts have been on four sides broadly:

    • Reducing water usage in existing machines/operations: This is a combination of strong management systems on how we use water in process plus regular upkeep and maintenance to track any leakages and wastes. This also includes modifications in existing machines which helps reduce; e.g. we made modifications in ropy dyeing machine and are able to reduce water consumption by 70,000 litres per day only from one single machine
    • Reducing water usage by moving to alternate technologies: In garment washing we are heavily promoting the use of no-stone wash machines, ozone machines and laser machines to reduce the usage of water in washing.
    • Developing disruptive technological solutions: Developing, testing and scaling dyeing innovations with several start-ups partners which are helping to completely change the water usage dynamics in denim production. A good example of this is Gaston foam dyeing technology for Denim yarn dyeing. This technology is currently under installation and would help save almost 90% of the water usage in conventional dyeing process.
    • End of pipe water recycling: After all the options for water reduction are exhausted, we implement initiatives for recycling of waste water; which could be either effluent from process of municipal sewage that we buy from local municipalities

    Sustainability | ArvindSustainability | Arvind

    If you were to rank various focus areas in sustainability in terms of importance for your company , how would you do that?

    We rank water as highest because of this being both local and global issue. Below is ranking of key things that we look at in order of priority:

      • Water
      • Health & Safety
      • Renewable Energy, Climate Change
      • Sustainable cotton/raw materials
      • Chemical/Sustainable chemistry

    Post consumer waste is still not as huge a problem in India as in the western world – perhaps because there is a market for used apparel . Whereas globally only about 1% of apparel is recycled , in India this figure might be higher. Any inputs on how it works in India. Do you see this problem significantly increasing?

    In India, on average the per capita consumption of textiles in much lower than west. So in first place it will be safe to assume that we wear garments for longer than average person in US. We also have the practice of passing on the used clothes within the family or to the surrounding communities, which keeps these in circulation until end of useful life. However, this is rapidly changing specially in urban and semi-urban areas where people no longer want to wear used clothes. Per capita consumption of clothes is also rising among youth and urban population. We see this problem increasing in the coming year and shift would be rapid. We are looking at used garment recycling technologies and we are hopeful that technologies would be commercially established before we start to face these challenges in India.

    Sustainability | Arvind

    There is a general feeling that improving systems and processes for sustainable productions increases costs. Do you think the customers are ready to pay the extra price for this effort and cost?

    Improvement in systems and processes definitely results in increased costs, however, we look at these as investments which pay back directly or indirectly in longer term. In few cases, the payback is really long or not immediately visible and such projects are challenging to implement at large scale. We have seen very low interest from consumers in paying extra for sustainable clothes. However, we see a clear preference when you provide a sustainable apparel within the same price range as conventional apparel.

    Sustainability | Arvind

    Has Arvind fixed up some long term goals regarding sustainability?

    We have long terms goals on various sustainability aspects:

      • 90% water from recycled water sources by 2020. Removing dependence on freshwater for production
      • 400,000 acres of Sustainable cotton farms by 2022
      • 30% renewable energy in operations by 2022

    Sustainability | Arvind

  • Indigo Zero – A Talk With Ralph Tharpe

    Indigo Zero – A Talk With Ralph Tharpe

    unnamedWe had previously written about the new foam dyeing technique developed in the US by the Fiber and Biopolymer Research Institute of Texas Tech University in collaboration with Indigo Mill Designs. They have come out with a revolutionary way of dyeing indigo and if this succeeds, it can help make a huge contribution in making denim fabrics sustainable. With almost zero discharge, the process is termed as Indigo Zero. We spoke to Ralph Tharpe of Indigo Mill Designs, a denim veteran with over 30 years of experience in the industry, about what this new concept and design is all about and why it is being viewed as revolutionary. He spoke to us in detail and explained what are the unique strengths of this process and explains all in his own words.

    Indigo Zero

    IndigoZERO™  – is a process of dyeing indigo without a dye bath and without wastewater discharge.  Crocking and wash fastness is actually much improved. The dry yarn without sizing has less color rub off. IndigoZERO™ allows production of yarn without rinse water discharge to the environment, but yet wash fastness can be improved. This is very important for knitted indigo yarns. There is no use of any reducer  (hydrosulfite). The dye is received pre-reduced. This leuco condition has to be maintained until the dyeing is completed. No need to reduce the indigo with chemicals at all as it is already in leuco form. The same can be sourced from various suppliers including Dystar, Archroma, Bluconnection etc sell it. Besides, there is another option of creating this pre-reduced indigo. A machine by Smart Indigo (Sedo Engineering) company can create pre-reduced indigo on site. The only issue is that the pre-reduced has to be pure and has to be protected from oxygen during shipping, storage, dyeing etc. Oxygen has to be excluded at all points. It’s a difficult process and many people told me it is impossible before we built the machine, but we finally figured out the way to do that.

    At the beginning of the project, we picked out a place in the TTU lab to wash the yarn after dying. But when we started the machine in test mode at Gaston Systems Inc. in Stanley, North Carolina, we noticed that the wet yarn did not rub off on our hands as easily as conventionally dyed indigo. It turned out that we didn’t have to use a rinsing process. If we are looking at 6 billion yards of denim production globally – we can save about 4 gallons per yard of denim produced or about 24 billion gallons of water globally. That can be a huge impact on the sustainability credentials of denim!

    Check the video here

    Gaston Systems has been working on indigo dyeing with foam for more than 10 years. The support we received from Gaston Systems, Walmart Foundation, the state of Texas, and VF Corporation, enabled the necessary research. Any low wet pick up method of dyeing with indigo, including foam, faces the critical challenge of maintaining leuco conditions. Gaston Systems knows more about foam application that anyone in the world. Our discoveries, and the patent applications that resulted would not have been possible without their support. It is amazing what can be accomplished with determination and support.

    Denimsandjeans Speaks To Ralph Tharpe | Denimsandjeans

    We envision three forms of the machine. The two machines starting in production are essentially slasher dye machines but without dye baths. We will support Gaston Systems in offering this machine at ITMA. It will have greater annual capacity than conventional slasher dyers. The second form of the machine is like the one owned by the Fiber and Biopolymer Research Institute. We need to refine the design of this machine. It will produce cones of indigo dyed yarn that can be used for knits or wovens. This machine would be for research and product development, hopefully in multiple settings around the world.

    We are evaluating the feasibility of a third form of the machine which would dye one section beam (400 to 600 yarns) at a time. Potentially this design could reduce yarn waste and improve minimum order quantities. Certainly, it would find application for knit yarns and high specialized denim.

    This is the first advantage of Indigo Zero – SUSTAINABILITY

    I talked to many dyers and they are today not thinking about water cost. However, in the near future water is going to be a big cost. Imagine how much water will be saved and how much cost savings it will translate into. Imagine a denim plant that did not have to have a water treatment plant. The elimination of reducer and the elimination of rinsing water are the keys to improved sustainability for indigo dyeing. We are planning to combine IndigoZEROâ„¢ with natural indigo and other sustainable technologies, like laser and ozone, to create a completely new way to make denim and jeans.

    This is the second advantage of IndigoZERO™  – COST SAVINGS.

    Because of higher speeds, reduced chemical needs, and reduced water costs, the payback on IndigoZEROâ„¢ is very fast. Two important global denim mills are soon going to find out the advantages this machine offers. Both the machines are meant for insertion into a big range replacing conventional dye boxes. Both these companies are visionaries and can see the future and embrace the possibilities of this technology and both are moving forward even though there is always a risk in new technology.

    We would like to change the design of the research machine so that  it runs from one cone to another. So an undyed cone turns into a dyed cone directly.

    Denimsandjeans Speaks To Ralph Tharpe | Denimsandjeans

    This machine delivers the third benefit of Indigo Zero – SPEED TO MARKET.

    We can spin the yarn in the first half of the day, dye inthe second half of the day and weave it the next day and the jeans can be made in 48 hours right from conception . This might be possible in a existing setups but at a large cost . But with this small machine configuration for Indigo Zero, we can accomplish Sustainability, Reduce Cost and have Speed to Market. Return on investment is improved because the speed and cost of product development is greatly improved.

    I always keep the picture of Pearl River (Greenpeace photo showing indigo contamination) on my table and one cannot just look at this picture and not react . One person might look at this picture and think –

    “ Oh wow , this is an ecological disaster and we must stop wearing jeans.”
    Another person might say, “What kind of crazy process is being followed where we put 3-4% of indigo by weight and then sell the product at 1%.” We are wasting resources both in putting on and  in the taking off . You need new technologies to put it on and new ones to take  it off.

    Ralph says his dream is to see that ultimately industry might reach a stage where indigo dyeing process can be considered as one of the most sustainable dyeing methods and no indigo is ever wasted.

    When asked about future prospects of the project, he mentioned that he needs to take this project on a bigger scale and need more finance for Texas Tech University – Fiber and Biopolymer Research Institute. . They are doing various tests to further develop the process including testing dyeing on different types of cotton – to see how they perform in the dying and whether cotton also makes a difference and how much. However, we need the industry to support the development as costs of R&D are high. There is still much left to learn.

    We will also be receiving feedbacks from two mills to whom we have shipped the machine and my fingers are crossed!

    Ralph Tharpe can be contacted at ralph.tharpe1@gmail.com

    Foison textile is one of the fastest growing denim/non-denim company in China. With a weaving capacity to touch over 85 million yards and growing to over 120 million yards p.a next year, the company is one of the selected few in China who have strong sustainable credentials. This long term vision has helped the company to deal with some of the major customers globally. Meet FOISON DENIM at the 4th edition of Denimsandjeans Vietnam – MY EARTH MY DENIM on June 12-13. To visit, register here – https://lnkd.in/fHkehqf

    My Earth My Denim | Denimsandjeans

  • Katsu Manabe From Momotaro Jeans , Japan Speaks To Denimsandjeans

    Katsu Manabe From Momotaro Jeans , Japan Speaks To Denimsandjeans

    In the recent tour of Japanese companies , one of the most important one was  JAPAN BLUE COMPANY which was founded in 1992 at Kojima, Japan and holding some very famous brands from Japan. Momotaro, Japan Blue , So Life and some other brands from their stable are there out of which Momotaro is the most well known.  In 2006 Momotaro Jeans was launched by Mr. Katsu who is taking care of International Market of Momotaro Jeans since then and in 2008 he brought the Momotaro Jeans into the international market. The company is currently operating in 26-27 countries with over 300 stores.

    The company has recently launched Denim Suitings, Customised Jeans and Handwoven Jeans also. Denim suitings are a new concept in the market where the indigo will not fade but will still give the sheen and look of indigo . Handwoven Jeans are made by the oldest technique of jeans manufacturing and has been also claimed that the jeans produced are 100% sustainable. The jeans are hand dyed with 100% use of natural indigo. The entire process took three months due to the traditional method of manufacturing and hence you can’t expect the jeans to be price competitive- they are really expensive ! (click on image below to see the video interview with Katsu Manabe)

      “Being a Jeansmaker we always think to produce the jeans in the most ecological way and the objective of launching handwoven jeans was to teach and show our youth the Japanese Culture of manufacturing ” – Katsu Manabe

    Denimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | Denimsandjeans

    It was a pleasure to check out their manufacturing specially on the Selvedge looms.

    Denimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | Denimsandjeans

    Why named “MOMOTARO” “MOMOTARO”

    ”Peach Boy” is one of very famous fairytale in Japan, The “legend of MOMOTARO” has been passed  from generations. The legend’s origin is a “Ura” legend which was has been handed down in Soja-city, Okayama. And many places with mysterious history and culture, remain in Okayama. A story of rejuvenation? Today, many people know “MOMOTARO” was born from a peach that came floating down a stream, rolling over and over. However, the popular legend of MO Meiji period was actually a story of rejuvenation. In this version, MOMOTARO was not born from a peach but was born to an old couple who ate the floating pe youth. Story of pursuing the dreams .The rejuvenation version of the “legend of MOMOTARO” was a folk tale for adults and was born as a story representing dreams and vitality to expand from a vast ocean. Since ages long past, people have pursued their dreams in Okayama. MOMOTARO JEANS is also the story of hard-working denim artisans in Okayama who deliver real jeans to the world.

    Denimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | Denimsandjeans

    Denimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | Denimsandjeans

    Denimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | Denimsandjeans

    KOJIMA JEANS STREET

    Kojima is an Industrial area surrounded by many factories, this place happens to be meant for only Industries and the workers however if you see it now, one will be blown away the way it has been transformed. Now Kojima has a dedicated Kojima Jeans Street which is designed in such a way that it looks like you are touring any Jeans Festival. Even the whole city of Kojima is branded as a ‘denim city’ where the branding starts at the railway station.  But it wasn’t that easy, Mr. Katsu while explaining the history of Kojima Jeans street said, that his father actually took the initiative to design the entire street. Initially, it was only Japan Blue Jeans and Momotaro Jeans all around the street, later on, Mr. Katsu’s father talked to all the factories around and convinced them to be a part of this street. Mr. Katsu said that convincing them wasn’t easy as most of them were very reluctant to change and not very young. However as some factories joined, and visitors started to visit the street, the rest factories also joined the initiative.

    Some very interesting images from the ‘Denim Street of Kojima’.

    Denimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | Denimsandjeans

    Denimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | Denimsandjeans

    Denimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | DenimsandjeansDenimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | Denimsandjeans

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    Denimsandjeans Tour To Momotaro Jeans | Denimsandjeans

     

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    Join us at Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam on June 12-13 to celebrate the biggest denim carnival of Vietnam. Exhibitors from over 10 countries will be showcasing their latest collection at the show and the latest denim trends will be unveiled at the show. Themed -  MY EARTH MY DENIM- its nature all the way !. For Invitation , register at www.vmshow.denimsandjeans.com/invite.php

    www.vmshow.denimsandjeans.com/invite.php

  • H&M Speaks To Denimsandjeans On Their Sustainability Efforts

    H&M Speaks To Denimsandjeans On Their Sustainability Efforts

    H&M is the retailer most often in news for its sustainable activities. As a group policy, the retailer is moving towards higher levels of sustainability for its apparel products setting up tight goals and targets. For a company as big as H&M, it’s not really an easy task to make their huge supply chain to move in the same direction as their goals. We wanted to understand how the company is planning to do this and how they see sustainability becoming an integral part of their objectives in the coming times. We spoke to Ms. Cecilia Brännstens, Environmental Sustainability Manager, H&M Group to find more about their efforts in this direction and she apprised us about the same.

    1.H&M is now the biggest user of sustainable cotton and man-made cellulosic materials globally. It must have been an uphill task. What did it take to reach here?

    This has been a journey that has evolved during the years and we have become more ambitious along the way. We believe that a company of our size and scale has a responsibility as well as an opportunity to lead the change towards a more sustainable fashion and design industry. We started in the 90s to use organic cotton and back in 2010 we went one step further setting our goal to only use sustainably sourced cotton by 2020. A few years back we set the high ambition to become fully circular and renewable which includes, among many other things, our aim to only use recycled or other sustainably sourced materials by 2030. Since our circular approach takes the whole value chain into consideration, from design, materials, production, process, use, reuse and recycle, we have also worked with setting concrete actions in each area. From how to design for circularity to how to improve our water and chemical management.

    2. Congratulations on creating the ambitious goal of using only sustainably sourced materials by 2030. How feasible will this be considering the huge number of suppliers you have globally?

    In 2017 already 35% of our total material was sustainable sourced materials, so we are fully committed that we will achieve it. The reality we face today is that shifting from a linear to a circular business model is challenging, mainly due to lack of technology to make recycling fully scalable. That´s way we are actively investing in innovation to overcome this challenge, as it will play a key role to reach our 2030 goal. Of course, we need to have our committed suppliers onboard on this journey to succeed. All our commercial business partners have signed our sustainability commitment and share our vision. Since we are present in our sourcing markets, that gives us a unique position to have daily contact with our suppliers, which helps us to build long-term relationships with them.

    3.Cotton is your largest input material. We understand in 2017 about 59% of it was from sustainable sources like BCI, Organic etc. What % currently cotton forms in your total usage of materials. Do you see that there will be a further growth in this share as you move the path of sustainability?

    Yes, we see a growth within these materials (organic cotton, recycle cotton and BCI cotton) since it is the material we use the most. Our goal is as mentioned for all our cotton to come from sustainable sources by 2020. H&M group is , according to Textile exchange , the biggest user of sustainable cotton which includes, organic, recycled, and cotton from BCI.

    H&M Speaks To Denimsandjeans On Their Sustainability Efforts

    4. Renewable energy is another front where many global players are focusing on. Is this aspect under your radar too. Can you enlighten us on the same?

    We have set an ambitious goal to become climate positive by 2040, and we have identified 3 main areas to achieve it, where renewable energy and energy efficiency are two of them (third being climate resilience). To become climate positive means that we will remove more emissions from the atmosphere than we are responsible for creating. Ways of reaching our goal is for example:

    1. Sourcing only 100 % renewable electricity in our own operations. In 2017, 96% of all the electricity used in our stores, offices and warehouses came from renewable sources.
    2. We are expanding production of renewable electricity through windmills and solar panels on warehouses as well as IT data centers.
    3. We have invested in GO2 – an innova­tive project that bundles the cost of our renewable energy usage with a contribution to new renewable energy supply.

    H&M Speaks To Denimsandjeans On Their Sustainability EffortsH&M Speaks To Denimsandjeans On Their Sustainability Efforts

    5. There are varied versions and interpretations of sustainability. How do you define sustainability?

    By definition, sustainability means to lead your business in a way so you meet the needs of present and future generations, using the resources responsibly. It is all about using materials that decrease the dependence on virgin resources, require less chemicals, energy and water and minimize the amount of materials that ends up as waste. It is also about being a fair and equal company.

    6. Supply chain side has seen great improvements over the last few years in terms of sustainability especially with the efforts of retailers like H&M. But there is the consumption side which again has a large environmental footprint. Do you think anything can be done on this front?

    Yes we do, and one thing we can do as a company is to ensure that we create products that can be used for as long as possible and that our customers can care for them in a sustainable way. As an example, in spring 2018 H&M launched the “Take Care” project in Germany ( this will be rolled out in several markets ) It is an initiative that aims at helping customers prolong the life of their products, providing guidance, inspiration as well as services and products to refresh, repair and remake their clothes. H&M also has a global garment collecting initiative which means that our customers can bring unwanted textiles to our store, so we can give them new life by reusing or recycling them.

    H&M Speaks To Denimsandjeans On Their Sustainability Efforts

    7.Sustainability still does not have a uniform and standardized way of measurement. Do you think in near future we can have a measurement tool or a score which can enable the consumer to gauge the sustainability of apparel products easily? 

    We support full customer transparency, we were among the first global fashion companies making its supplier list public and we are taking steps to provide more information on product level. On that note H&M fully supports the initiative to develop a consumer labelling system allowing the customers to compare products from a sustainability perspective, even from different brands, the Higg Index. With the Higg Index we hope that in the future there is a label available for customers that provide all sorts of information about a certain garment covering environmental as well as social aspects.

    8.What changes you see in the denim supply chain over the next decade as there is increased consumer awareness about the environmental impacts of their jeans.

    Denim production comes with some challenges, mainly due to the amount of water, energy and chemicals used. Since 2015, we have scored all our denim products using Jeanologia’s Environmental Impact Measurement tool. This third-party tool helps us and our suppliers measure, set targets and reduce water, energy and chemical use in our denim production. In 2017, 55 % of our denim products achieved “green “ level, which means they used a maximum of 35 liters of water per garment during the treatment processes.

    H&M Speaks To Denimsandjeans On Their Sustainability EffortsH&M Speaks To Denimsandjeans On Their Sustainability Efforts

    9.Any other efforts on sustainability side which you might like to share with our readers. 

    We see that sustainability is a question for the whole fashion industry. H&M group are working on bringing partners together to identify challenges and share innovative ideas and solutions. We want to lead the change across our own operations and those of the industry and break new ground to improve the way our products are designed and made. We believe the best way to change the perception on the fashion industry is to lead by example and build awareness. Having a clear sustainability strategy, with concrete goals, road maps and actions, while being open and transparent on progress and challenges on the way.

    H&M Speaks To Denimsandjeans On Their Sustainability Efforts

  • Ian Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans

    Ian Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans

    Ian Berry, a British born denim artist who creates artwork solely from denim; re-using jeans, jackets, and other denim clothing to create portraits, urbanscapes and other unique works spoke to Denimsandjeans.com exclusively about his new book and his journey so far. In 2013, Ian Berry was named as one of Art Business News “30 under 30” influential artists in the world.

    We have featured you a few times on Denimsandjeans.com but still our readers want to know more about your wonderful art. Please give us some background of how you got into this unique art.

    It all began at the end of university I had done a collage out of newspaper and I went home to my childhood home where my mum knew I would never come back permanently. She had already started to clear some things out of my bedroom. There were many piles of things, but one was all my old jeans. I was looking and pondering – do I want to send them out and then it came to me, I didn’t want to get rid of them, I thought of all the memories wearing them (and being slimmer) and saw the link in shades of indigo to the shades in what I did out of newspaper so started cutting.

    Ian Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.com

    It was then I thought about my own connection to denim. I wasn’t as a denim expert, just someone who felt comfortable wearing denim – and when a few people saw the first pieces and I realised other people’s connection with denim. Not as experts but people who felt comfortable about this everyday material that you didn’t need to be a connoisseur to enjoy, wear and understand. I had no ‘how to’ book, I had no one to look up to, I had no one ask me to work in denim to fill a gap in a trade fair. I had to work out techniques and trial and error at the beginning and I had to make my own technique which I have worked on throughout the 13 years since I started. To the outside it may look very successful and to live and work as an artist for many years, yes, that’s success but it is hard work and commitment.

    Thankfully this led me to very good things with the art and it’s been an honor that through that hard work I get to meet and be even friends with the people that I was so wowed about as a child and student. The greatest honor has been seeing people’s reactions in art galleries around the world and having a connection with people.

    Ian Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.com

    We have got a copy of your book, Ian Berry, Denim on Denim. We really enjoyed it and it shows your long history with the material and the depth of work you have. What you do with denim is very special. How was the feedback and where can our readers get the same ?

    It went really well thank you and has been a great way to get the work out there. My work doesn’t come across that well on small images like on the iphone and has to be seen in real life really. But the book bridges that gap a bit and has been a good way for people to see a bigger collection of my work. The BBC helped me launch it – which – I guess never harms. Actually, a nice side effect of that was I got a lot more people ask to come and work with me and I got a couple of new assistants out of it!

    Click here to buy the book

    The book actually sold out and got a great response – we have just had some more printed. The hardbacks went faster than the paperbacks even I’m told. A good thing and a bad thing is that I cross over into many worlds, some just on the fringes, like denim, but it leads to a wider audience and interest. For me it was a great thing to do after all this time, and to decide what should be in, and out but to stand back and make sense of it all, and I guess be happy with where it came from and what it all became. What’s now more important – is to drive forward into the next body of work and focus on the future.

    By putting the book together, it was easier to help to curate the flow of the book and show the overlying theme to me work – Community. Or the lack of it and the changing world we live. The fading fabric of our urban environment. The work is a lot more than it being about denim, it is simply my medium.The book can be found at www.ianberry.art under ‘book’ and if your readers put in the promo code D&J at the check out they can get free postage.

    What was your first piece and how much time you spent to create it 

    I started with denim first by doing portraits. I have since noticed that many artists who started using new and unusual materials often begin with portraits, and of famous people. I did the same, but had my reasons other than it being just iconic faces. I never expected it to end the way it has to be honest, I was to be an art director at that stage!

    That said, as I was going in to advertising I was fascinating in things that changed people’s minds. And I knew how Marilyn Monroe, Brando, Dean had worn denim on screen and then everyone wanted to wear it. Those, along with Debbie Harry were my first ones I made. Debbie Harry was one of the first to really make double denim cool and it was nice several years later to actually get to do her portrait and to meet her. With that I became friends with some of the guys from Blondie, and I did Tommy Kessler’s denim jacket for him – he’s still wearing it on stage – five years on. . . he’s been unable to wash it!

    Ian Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.com

    I also did a piece for the James Dean Museum in Fairmount, Indiana, in 2010. It was his hometown. Both were such an honor and took me back to that time when I was making pieces on my bedroom floor. What’s interesting is you would think I would get faster making them, but because I have got a lot more detailed they do take a long time – and as the portraits now are official, there is a lot of work around it too. That first weekend I made 6 – in a much simpler style than today. It would take me that long to do only an eye now.

    Ian has gone on to do portraits for Giorgio Armani, Lapo Elkann, Jenifer Saunders, Eunice Olumbide OBE and the family of Ayrton Senna to name a few.

    How difficult is it to find pieces of differently shaded denim washes to help you create the correct shadings in your paintings.

    It is a very labour intensive process. You know you can bang things in Photoshop and let a computer dictate where you place things. This isn’t really art and loses an edge to the work. I have to find each piece to really match where it should be and I can spend hours just looking for that one. Having 2000 pairs of jeans also leads to issues as well as solutions – as you think you will have always have something better and keep looking. On the other side, I may find something perfect, but it is so good that you want to use it on another piece – in a bolder way. So, you carry on looking for something else.

    I’m lucky that I have had many supporters over the world send me the jeans, from friends and neighbours as well as denim brands and denim mills to packages sent from people who want to see their jeans turned into art.

    Secret Garden at NY is one of your masterpieces. It must have been a tremendous effort  How did you feel to be there and showcasing a complete garden of denim ? Must be really tough maintaining this garden !

    It was probably one of the most challenging things I have done with denim to be honest as it was working rather differently to how I had before – especially with lots of help for one and sometimes it was like project managing. The feeling there was pretty special, I got a moment just before the people arrived at the opening (I was actually using every moment before to get it ready) and just to look up at it all was just an incredible feeling and then seeing other people’s reactions. I was so lucky to have Lucinda Grange come and take photos of it as she really captured it, but nothing really is like being there in real life.

    I actually left the day after the opening back to London so I had little time in there and it was up for several months. Christine Rucci had helped me install it in New York and she went in often and would just make sure everything was ok as well as staff at the museum. The impact it had was great and was worth all the hard work – and since it has shown in different forms in Kentucky, then France, and now – at a soon to be announced location in San Francisco – All 20 meters of it.

    Ian Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.comIan Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.comIan Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.com

    Was there a sustainable message in the garden?

    I talked in the museum a lot about sustainability and with it using sustainable technology, like with Tonello with washing and lasering. What better way to portray sustainability than show it as living breathing plants and freshness, although that wasn’t made for this message, denim is just my medium as the material of our time. It was more of a message on community, and community gardens in New York – and how many children are not in the garden, but on their ipads.

    That said, in the items for children we educated them on how it was from plants, to pants to plants again (sorry) and also showed a cotton plant. It was amazing how few knew this was the way denim was made – including some of the parents. It was a big success in New York and in the end, another installation for me. I like to do them as they are a new challenge and it also means that they can travel more. When I do my other works, if I show them, they sell, meaning not so many people get to see them. A strange problem for an artist.

    Ian Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.comIan Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.com

    It’s been great to show it again since in the states, In Kentucky and then in France, in a former denim heartland. All had variations on it. What’s been amazing is I did it in New York, and there I was in the garment district a lot making things. I’d also been going to Italy to work with Tonello who have been so good with me. This last month I was in Genoa (jeans) and in the denim valleys so the historic denim and then the heartlands of the 90’s denim. I was then in Nimes, (denim) as well as Mazamet in France so it was fitting that I went to these areas then on to San Francisco – to make the installation there – I will be excited to show you that soon!

    It was like a big part of the denim history timeline, what is told. Although the fast part. I do think the denim story often misses of my home area in the north of England as without the industrial revolution we would never have had Levi’s and the ability to make more mass-produced jeans – besides, it was us who didn’t want ‘a French sounding cloth’ so changed serge de Nimes to Denim!

    What was it like to be in Nimes ?

    It’s a beautiful city, but it celebrates its Roman history, not really its denim. There is a small part of a museum that does show a bit though. The cloth that was made then was a bit different to what we know to be denim today however. I think they will soon start to celebrate the denim history though, and perhaps thanks to ones guys efforts.

    It was so special to spend a day with Guillaume Sagot who has brought denim back to Nimes and set up Ateliers de Nimes. I got a pair and love to wear them and tell the story. It’s not only a good brand and great story to bring denim production pack to this historic denim hub for the first time in hundreds of years, but Guillaume, is a great guy. It was great to see his studio, his work, his plans and the city. He is certainly a great denim friend of mine.

    Ian Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.comIan Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.com

    Do you think your art can show some way where the industry can be stronger on the path of sustainability.

    I don’t know really, I pick up a lot about the industry but really I am on the outside and don’t pretend to know everything. I have listened to those who say it’s often just ‘marketing’ but I also notice that everyone is now in on the game and perhaps that competition will push through some good results and answers – and I keep seeing a few interesting developments.

    My art isn’t about sustainability however, well, not at its core. But I guess that is also true also about many in the industry. I don’t use denim for a sustainable message but more so that I am portraying contemporary life and see denim as the material of our time, both the good and the bad. I don’t market it as sustainable, however others write about me that way and about recycled and upcycled and so on. Of course, it is nice that some can take that message away and think of the impact on the world denim has, or, their own impact. It’s also good if they think what materials they can use and reuse and not just throw away.

    If you think of reusing worn denim or sampled denim, like I do, you do look toward people like Maurizio Donadi, at Atiliers and Repairs, E.L.V here in East London and Denimcratic to name just a few are making great things reusing denim. I was at the Levis Archives a few weeks ago in San Fran and seeing the jeans that showed evidence of four different owners was quite a statement on sustainability. The industry can strive for the most sustainable denim, but if the consumer doesn’t demand it, then it is going to be hard to do as there will always be others who will make it as cheap as possible and there will always be the people that will often just go for the cheapest. I guess there is also something in how many pairs of jeans, as one of the issues will always be the mass of it. I love something that Blackhorse Lane do where they discourage people from buying more than two pairs of denim from them and they also offer the repair service, they look after their staff well too.

    Ian Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.com

    As someone who just wore jeans and knew little about them when starting my journey with the art, I have grown to appreciate and embrace the craft of denim. I’ll now buy or dare I say, get given a lot of jeans and I’m always proud to wear them and see the evolution of them and see that denim should be seen more this way – and have them for a long time.

    Let’s face it, denim is global, worldwide, mass. I love the whole denim head community but if that is 1 per cent of the global denim I think that number is overestimated. If more and more people can appreciate a good pair of jeans, and appreciate the costs a bit more (sustainable for more than just the environment) then I think the consumer could start to appreciate a sustainable message – and I think people are now wanting things more individual and with a story – not the mass high street. In a time when sometimes you fear for the young, many are more aware and demand things, so the future could be a brighter blue. When I worked in advertising a criticism used to be that many in adland would think of other people in advertising when making the ads, they had a certain language. Of course there is many different sectors in denim, the brands behind the brands, the mills and then the more sexy consumer facings brands and I guess many have to decide who their target audience is to be able to speak to and communicate.

    As for my own art I know it speaks to many and communicates a lot to many – it is also much, much more than it being ‘look it’s made in denim’. I get great reactions in gallery shows and art fairs around the world, I dare say not normal reactions even, to see people cry when looking at your work is quite surreal. But in denim, in the very few times I have shown within denim I don’t know, it’s never as strong. Perhaps they see the fabric more or something or perhaps the places it’s been shown is not the right context for art. It’s just an observation.

    Would you like to share with us any upcoming projects which you feel excited about?

    There’s lots coming up actually over the next month’s even, but I rarely tell anyone what is going on til it’s happening, or even happened. I’m lucky to have a very heavy workload with lots of commissions, art fairs and a big solo exhibition to work toward for London next year. Trying to juggle it all is not easy as the work is very labor intensive.

    I may or may not be in your side of the world soon too!

    Ian Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.comIan Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.com

    My next showing will be here in London however at the Smallest Gallery in Soho, a great little space curated by my friend Phil Levine and will give an opportunity for a new audience to see my work. It’s an interesting thing the trade fairs, I have my own industry trade fair – the Art Fair, like in Miami and many other cities. I have recently seen it as that and not really dissimilar, but it’s there that my work is seen by the collectors. I have said no to a lot of mills and brands to do things at fairs, not through lack of gratitude, just that my work takes a long time and I am turning down gallery shows and art fairs and there is only so much I can do in a year. I have also thought if I work with them, X Y Z wouldn’t work with me in future if I’m so linked with someone. I have a long term plan.

    In one line, what do you think is the future of denim ?

    The future I’d like to see with denim will be in the sustainability of people as well as the environment, clean ethics and morals as well as methods of production.

    Ian Berry Speaks To Denimsandjeans.com| Denimsandjeans.com

    Thank you Ian !

  • Q&A Session With Mr Arvind Mathur, CEO Raymond Denim

    Q&A Session With Mr Arvind Mathur, CEO Raymond Denim

    Raymond Group is an Indian branded fabric and fashion retailer, incorporated in 1925. The group owns apparel brands like Raymond, Raymond Premium Apparel, Park Avenue, Park Avenue Woman, ColorPlus,Parx etc which are retailed in over 450 cities and towns in India. Besides, it produces suiting fabric, with a capacity of producing about 38 million meters of wool and wool-blended fabrics and over 47 million mtrs of denim.

    Arvind Mathur | Denimsandjeans.com

    Raymond is one of the pioneers of denim in India commencing its first denim operation in 1996. Raymond UCO Denim is a 50-50 JV between Raymond and UCO NV of Belgium and is a globally renowned producer of denim fabrics and garments. We spoke to its CEO, Mr Arvind Mathur, to understand what makes the company tick and helps it retain its premium position for over 2 decades.>

    Raymond has stood out as a premium denim supplier globally for about 2 decades now. What do you think is the recipe for your success?

    Raymond pioneered the manufacture of Ring Denim in India in 1996, starting with a state-of-the-art highly versatile & flexible setup, in collaboration with an Italian partner. The company from its inception has been focused on supplying innovative fashion denim products through focus on best raw material, proactive adoption of latest technology, collaboration with world class suppliers & solution providers and retaining some of the best people in the industry. This allows us to hold an upper hand in innovation over other players in the market and maintain our premiumness.

    How do you think the denim industry has changed in last 5 years?

    Overall the market has become very competitive because of which we see retailers offering better quality denim at lower price points with more frequent changes in collections.In terms of fashion there has been a move from denim as comfort wear to athleisure with hyper elasticity and enhanced softness for comfort. This has also to some extent triggered higher growth in women and kids segments. On the global supply chain front there is growing bias in favour of full package suppliers with brands and retailers looking to reduce contact points, geographical spread and various other complexities of a more fragmented sourcing base. Sustainability has certainly taken center stage with increasing awareness and concerns about the environmental impact of a resource hungry denim industry. From cotton to yarn to fabric to garment, every area is being looked into.

    As you said Sustainability is the keyword most brands are repeating nowadays. Do you think it is now becoming a mainstream focus for them. How is Raymond preparing itself to achieve sustainable targets of global brands?

    Sustainability holds the future survival of the human race and the earth as we know it. The awareness about environmental issues amongst the consumers, NGOs, brands and suppliers is increasing by the day and everyone involved is  willing to contribute their bit to improving the situation. It is no longer a marketing gimmick but goes much much beyond. We use Blue Sign certified pre-reduced liquid Indigo. Improved processes allow cleaner production of denim with a positive impact on resource efficiency such as reduction of the sodium hydrosulfite usage by 60-70%, much cleaner water waste and less water usage. Also a major chunk of our cotton consumption is BCI (Better Cotton Initiative). We are a certified producer of PCW (Post Consumer Waste) cotton Denims in collaboration with I:Collect. Our product innovation is geared towards making optimal use of sustainable raw material and processes to further strengthen our sustainability credentials. In this regard we are working closely with both brands and suppliers of innovative material and machines.

    What are the main focus areas of development for Raymonds apart from sustainability. How are you planning to differentiate yourselves from your competitors with your developments?

    Apart from sustainability there are various other areas we are focusing on. Fabrics made from low torque yarns and super fine cottons to bring out an  enhanced soft hand feel is a good example. We have also developed products using value added special blends & speciality yarns in conjunction with balanced fabric construction for ultimate comfort. We will continue to surprise our customers with our super stretch and hyper flex products with excellent recovery properties.

    Pl tell us about your latest collection for SS’20  What are the key products that you want to bring to the market .

    The latest collection portrays unisex denims in diverse concepts/moods and majorly covers

    • A wide range of super-stretch denims (“FLUID” series) with super soft hand feel with ultimate comfort and free-movement through use of latest technology in spinning and weaving.

    • A range of Bi-stretch denims (“360 DEGREE”) exhibiting sense of freedom of movement to meet the needs of the modern urban consumer.

    • A collection of classic denim with a contemporary feel (our “VINTAGE” series) for the true denim connoisseur.  Salt & pepper look with diverse cast and colour that are bold enough to stand on their own

    • Eco friendly sustainable products ranging from our “LOW AQUA” range which considerably reduces water consumption during dyeing process to the Salt-free range (“PRISTINE” series) which completely eliminates use of hydrosulphite and brings down the load on effluent. The other highlight are products made from PCW cotton to decrease dependence on natural resources.

    6. Do you see that the current trend of Fast fashion will sustain for very long. In which direction you see the denim industry moving to in the next 5 years?

    The trend towards speed and agility will continue to grow. The rise of fast fashion is steadily shifting the traditional bi-seasonal collections to multi-seasonal collections and this is not going to go away. Shortening supply chains are playing a key supporting role in this phenomena.

    However, owing to sustainability issues such as over-consumption and waste generation, there has been a certain level of backlash and this is building up. Hence going forward, while we don’t see slowing down of fast fashion anytime soon, we do certainly expect the industry to take more stringent measures towards use of sustainable raw material and circular processes. It will have to play a pivotal role in curtailing & solving the problem collaboratively. This will drive the development and adoption of new technologies, materials and business models to make fast fashion much more environmentally efficient and sustainable.

    A glimpse of latest collection of Raymond Denim comes in the video below :

    Raymond SS20 Collection | Denimsandjeans

    For more information on Raymond and their products , pl contact Mr Sudhir at sudhir.deorukhkar@raymond.in

  • C&A: Jeffrey Hogue Speaks With Denimsandjeans On The Launch Of Their C2C Gold Certified Sustainable Jeans

    C&A: Jeffrey Hogue Speaks With Denimsandjeans On The Launch Of Their C2C Gold Certified Sustainable Jeans

    Dutch Fashion Retailer – C&A , has become the world’s first retailer to offer jeans that are completely Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM at the Gold level. The entire concept has been designed in partnership with Fashion for Good, a global platform that aims to make all fashion good, the jeans are supposed to have been made with completely sustainable materials and were produced in compliance with the high Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM Gold level. The primary objective of C&A is to make sustainably produced fashion the new normal and not something which seem to be an out of the box . Keeping all such things in the mind , the dutch retailer has kept the price very competitive and hence the the retail price for the men and women’s jeans is only 29 euros.

    C&A’s Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM collection is marketed under the #WearTheChange campaign, launched in the spring of 2018. The goal of the campaign is to bundle products with various attributes that make them more sustainable compared to conventionally produced garments, such as Bio-Cotton and Cradle to Cradle CertifiedTM, making it more visible for the customer.C&A deliberately chose jeans – a very complex garment and iconic product. Since jeans are made of different components – and numerous production processes are required – suppliers and factories were selected thoroughly and materials were tested and certified. Some elements, such as the lining material or sewing thread, had to be completely redeveloped.

    Q&A With Mr. Jeffrey Hogue ( Chief Sustainability Officer) On The Launch Of The Most Sustainable Jeans By C&A

    Denimsandjeans.com had a Q&A session with Mr Jeffrey Hogue – Chief Sustainability Officer Of C&A , to know more about the jeans and the sustainable efforts which have been made by C&A.

    Q&A With Mr. Jeffrey Hogue ( Chief Sustainability Officer) On The Launch Of The Most Sustainable Jeans By C&A

    1. Congratulations for coming out with the first C2C Gold certified jeans. It must not have been an easy task creating these jeans. Why do you feel these are the most sustainable jeans globally.

    Thank you. It was indeed a remarkable year of dedication, innovation and collaboration that has led to this achievement. The Cradle-to-Cradle Certified(TM) product standard is globally recognized as the only holistic, third-party standard able to certify circular products. It certifies all aspects of product manufacturing, such as the sourcing of the raw materials, the use of chemicals, water or energy in manufacturing, the design for material reutilization and the social conditions in the value chain. In other words, the C2C Certified(TM) Products Program is the only product-based certification that is based on rigorous, science-based criteria for all aspects of sustainability. No one in the world has ever before achieved the Gold level certification with a complex product such a jeans.

    2. The project took you over a year . It must have been a long journey . Pl tell us how did you go about this project and difficulties you faced.

    In the case of the denim jeans project, around one year was needed to bring the product to shelves. We were indeed facing a couple of challenges. More complex products consist of more components from several suppliers. The first challenge was the complexity of the network of partners involved. Companies supplying e.g. the fabric, the sewing thread, the fabric dyes, the Interlining, metal trims and buttons printing and laundry services and chemicals and many others needed to be integrated. To mention another challenge: Washing, dyeing, printing and finishing processes also often include a large number of chemicals. Generally, the more complex the product is, the more chemical processes are involved. Every single component needed to be assessed for Material Health for the final product to be certified but the list of previously C2C assessed materials was rather limited. We therefore had to build up everything and look for innovative solutions.

    3. We understand you are launching the jeans at Euro 29/- which seems a reasonable price given the effort that goes into the same. Are you sending a message that sustainable fashion is also cost effective.

    Absolutely. We want to mainstream sustainable fashion, taking it from niche to normal. We believe everyone should be able to look and feel good every day, without compromising the lives of those who make their clothes, or the planet we source from. Ultimately, we want to be at a point where consumers do not need to make a choice between looking good, feeling good and doing good.

    4. What are the sustainability goals of C&A for the near future . Any goals specified for different apparel , specifically for jeans ?

    We are making great progress against our 2020 Global Sustainability Framework which is published in our annual Sustainability Report. We have to take a leap of faith, setting bold goals that may seem impossible to achieve in order to push ourselves and the industry further.
    We have a strong commitment for certified organic cotton. We started this commitment in 2005 with only 1 million garments made of organic cotton. Today, we are the largest volume buyer of certified organic cotton worldwide, with over 170 million pieces sold in 2017. We’ve reached a leadership position that we had not envisioned was reachable – or even possible – when we started out. We see the same possibilities with the work we are doing right now with our our C2C Certified collection. So far we have brought to market over 2 million pieces of Cradle-to-Cradle Certified(TM) apparel, maintaining the most sustainable fashion collection currently on the market at this scale. It is only by taking this leap of faith that we will prove that it can be done, engage our customers and inspire the industry to take action. Eventually, we want to create a new norm in how clothing is designed for its next use: only good materials and chemicals, made with 100% renewable energy and 100% recycled water – and produced in a way that offers dignity and fairness to workers.

    5. There are still varied ways of measuring sustainability which consumers cannot easily understand. Do you think in near future we can have a measurement tool or a score which can enable the consumer to gauge the sustainability of an apparel product easily.

    The question if a one fashion product has been produced more sustainability than another product is very hard for a consumer to judge. Sustainability remains a very complex topic. To help our customers to make better informed purchase decisions, we work with third-party standards such as the Cradle to Cradle standard. In 2018, we reached a key milestone in our sustainability journey with the launch of #WearTheChange, our first global, multi-channel sustainability communications campaign. It was launched in Europe in February 2018, across in-store, online and print touch points. All products advertised under #WearTheChange are produced and sourced in a way that is more sustainable than conventional methods. Every one is backed by a verifiable sustainability claim: for example, certified organic cotton or Cradle-to-Cradle CertifiedTM. The #WearTheChange message is clear: every little step counts. We are inviting customers to join our sustainability journey with an inspiring and optimistic message that it’s possible to look good and feel good, with no compromises.
    In addition, we are working closely with the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, a leading apparel, footwear, and textile industry alliance for sustainable production, to further develop the Higg Index with regards to consumer and product communication. We believe, the Higg Index has the potential to enable retailers to communicate clear, comparable, and meaningful sustainability scores publicly. Using one common language to share sustainability efforts should support consumers to make better informed purchasing decisions.

    Below are some denim pieces which have been launched under the same concept of Sustainability and the same can be seen here .

    Q&A With Mr. Jeffrey Hogue ( Chief Sustainability Officer) On The Launch Of The Most Sustainable Jeans By C&A Q&A With Mr. Jeffrey Hogue ( Chief Sustainability Officer) On The Launch Of The Most Sustainable Jeans By C&A

    Q&A With Mr. Jeffrey Hogue ( Chief Sustainability Officer) On The Launch Of The Most Sustainable Jeans By C&A Q&A With Mr. Jeffrey Hogue ( Chief Sustainability Officer) On The Launch Of The Most Sustainable Jeans By C&A

    Q&A With Mr. Jeffrey Hogue ( Chief Sustainability Officer) On The Launch Of The Most Sustainable Jeans By C&A Q&A With Mr. Jeffrey Hogue ( Chief Sustainability Officer) On The Launch Of The Most Sustainable Jeans By C&A

    About C&A

    With approximately 1,500 branches in 18 European countries and more than 31,000 employees, C&A Europe is one of Europe’s leading fashion retailers. Every day, C&A Europe welcomes more than two million visitors and offers high-quality fashion for the whole family at affordable prices. In addition to our European branches, C&A is also present in Brazil, Mexico and China.

    For more information about C&A, please visit www.c-a.com.

    About the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute

    The Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute is a non-profit organization whose mission is to turn the making of things into a positive force for people, the economy and the planet. Founded by William McDonough and Dr. Michael Braungart, the Institute administers the Cradle to Cradle Certifiedâ„¢ Product Program, a guidance system for assessing and continually improving products based upon five sustainability characteristics: material health, material reuse, renewable energy, water stewardship, and social fairness.

    *Cradle to Cradle® is a registered trademark of MBDC. Cradle to Cradle Certified™ is a certification mark licensed by the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute.

  • Foison Textile Poised For Big Growth – Sam Li

    Foison Textile Poised For Big Growth – Sam Li

    Foison textile is one of the fastest growing denim/non-denim company in China . With a weaving capacity to touch over 85 million yards and growing to over 120 million yards p.a next year, the company is one of the selected few in China who have strong sustainable credentials. This long term vision has helped the company to deal with some of the major customers globally . We speak to the Director of Foison textile – Mr Sam Li – and try to find out how they are planning to grow and how they see the future.

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    Q. Please let us know more about your company and its history.

    Foison is a company focused on denim and we are one of the important denim mills representing China globally. But we are now also going to be focused on non –denim. We will be setting up 4 CDRs this year and making another 5 million yards of piece dyed fabrics. We will have a lot o f new system including water recycling and also we are going to reduce sulphur ,carbon and sodium release by about 80%. We are going to have the entire new machine at this mill and we will focus to make sustainable product in order to protect the environment besides using liquid sulphur.

    Q. How much is the capacity of Foison Textile?

    Currently, we have the production capacity of 4 million yards of denim fabric and 3 million yards of PFD. We have one rope dyeing and 3 slash dyeing machines.

    Q. Amongst the Chinese Denim Manufacturers, where do you see the positioning of Foison Textile?

    We are definitely in Top 5 in terms of global recognition and appreciation. Production wise we might soon by 2nd or 3rd in China.

    Q. Which market is important for Foison? US or Europe?

    European Market is used to be a good market but now we have also a good market in America and have associated with lot of good American brands but still Europe is a big market for us. We are exporting 70% to Europe, 20% to America and the rest 10 %; we are making for the domestic consumption.

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    Q. How’s the domestic market in China?

    Not so good, may be few big players can be long lasting and stable. A lot of small brands have come up and their business is based largely on internet (e-commerce) but it’s not easy for them to survive as there is a lot of competition.

    Q. There is lot of premium denim brands in China which is selling at very higher prices . Your take on that?

    Yes, there are some good brands. But in terms of being able to trust, only a few can be relied upon . Payments are a problem with many of the local brands. Therefore we find that export is better.

    Q. Are you not planning to go into Garments Manufacturing?

    No! We would like to concentrate on producing best Fabric only. Garment manufacturing side of China is no more competitive as labor cost has been rising for last few years and also we are facing pressure in RMB (Chinese Currency). In 2000, one USD equaled 10 RMB which have reduced to 6.4 RMB now, a reduction of 36.4%. So it’s not easy to survive and also the labor cost was earlier USD 110/month but today we have to pay more than USD 600/month on an  average . For very high skilled labor the cost can even go upto USD 2000/Month . So if you compare from Bangladesh, Cambodia and Vietnam, we are far getting much more expensive for Garment production. China has over-developed in last 20 years and it is no more kingdom of Manufacturing. But fabric production is different. It is very capital intensive and investment is huge . China continues to be a very important player for fabrics.

    Q. Do you have any specific plans for Sustainability as it is the most important direction the industry is taking

    Material wise we have done lot of polyester recycling , cotton recycling programmes and we also use liquid indigo . So according to our record we are number one in water and indigo recycling and we got the last license in China for a dyeing mill. This is a great achievement for us !