Stella McCartney is the first designer to endorse New York’s Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act.
With the new year 2022, comes fresh focus on sustainability from authorities in USA. Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act was proposed on January 7 and which , if passed, would make NY to become the first state in the US to pass a bill, holding the largest fashion labels accountable for their involvement in climate change.
The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act, sponsored by State Senator Alessandra Biaggi and Assemblywoman Anna R. Kelles, was also backed by a number of sustainable fashion nonprofits including the New Standard Institute, the Natural Resources Defense Council, and the New York City Environmental Justice Alliance, as well as designer Stella McCartney. The law applies to global apparel and footwear companies with revenues of more than $100 million.
WHAT EXACTLY DOES THE BILL SAY?
Prada, Nike, Armani, Gucci, Chanel, and all other global high-end fashion brands with more than $100 million revenues are liable to map out at least half of their supply chain from raw material farming ,through transportation, and to reveal the social and environmental implications along the way. Fair labour pay, greenhouse gas emissions, and water waste and management are all examples of topics that must be made public. Under the Act, fashion firms must set goals in line with the Paris Agreement, which is limiting global warming to 1.5 degrees Celsius over pre-industrial levels – and present a strategy to achieve them.
FASHION SUSTAINIBILITY ACT INTO EXISTENCE
“As a global fashion and business capital of the world, New York State has a moral responsibility to serve as a leader in mitigating the environmental and social impact of the fashion industry†quoted by Senator Biaggi in a press release. She also added, “a groundbreaking piece of legislation that will make New York the global leader†in holding the fashion industry “accountable†ensuring, “labour, human rights, and environmental protections are prioritized.â€
Companies would have 12 months to comply with the mapping rule (18 months for impact declarations), and if found in violation, they might face fines of up to 2% of their annual revenues. The fines would be directed to a new Community Fund run by the Department of Environmental Conservation, which would be used for environmental justice programmes. A list of companies determined to be non-compliant would be published annually by the New York attorney general.
THE CURRENT SCENARIO
Though many brands have become more vocal in admitting their role in climate change and human rights violations, efforts to correct the situation have been left to the companies and a variety of nongovernmental watchdog organizations such as the Fair Labor Association, which focuses on wage issues, and Higg, which focuses on supply chain reporting. They can be rather diverse.
According to the UN Environment Programme, the worldwide fashion industry today accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions, which is more than the aviation and shipping sectors combined, as well as roughly 20% of global wastewater. Every year, the textiles sector produces an estimated 92 million tonnes of trash, which is expected to increase to 134 million tonnes by 2030. This deteriorating trend may mostly be linked to the rise of fast fashion, in which firms make and distribute low-cost, low-quality apparel that buyers discard after only a few wears.
Though a step in right direction, it remains to be seen if the Act can bring some very objective standards to be complied with – rather than giving subjective directions leaving scope for misinterpretations and hence non-compliance. The fashion industry needs the governments large consuming regions of US / Europe and later even China and India. Till the time we have thoughtful intervention by the governments, sustainability and circularity is likely to remain dependent on subjective interpretations preventing its universal application.
Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 50.
COTTON PRODUCTION LIKELY TO GROW OVER 350 LAKH BALES, AS PER INDIAN COTTON FEDERATION
The Indian Cotton Federation (ICF) predicts that India’s cotton production would exceed 350 lakh bales during the cotton season 2021-22 (October to September). According to J.Thulasidharan, President, ICF , the rise in the minimum support price (MSP) has encouraged farmers and helped preserve the area under cotton. It has also encouraged farmers to implement improved crop management methods. Simultaneously, demand for exports was strong as well. At the Federation’s annual meeting, the office-bearers elected new officers, including J. Thulasidharan (President), P. Natraj and Adhitya Krishna Pathy (Vice-Presidents), and Nishant Asher (Secretary).
J. Thulasidharan also emphasised the need of addressing concerns such as fibre quality, correct grading, improved seed, and measures to achieve higher output. He went on to say that the next revolution will only come through increased yield. With the appropriate measures, Indian farmers may achieve a 1,000 kg output, which should be a priority for all stakeholders.
LEE JEANS LAUNCHES THEIR NEW VIRTUAL STORE
Lee Jeans has unveiled its first virtual store, allowing buyers to visit its Europe flagship in Antwerp and learn more about the brand’s ‘For A World That Works’ (FWTW) sustainability initiative. Consumers may browse an interactive three-dimensional retail area, exploring things in a store setting before effortlessly adding purchases to their purchasing basket, in the virtual store. The goal of digital shopping is to offer a real-world experience without the stress that often comes with in-person purchasing. The immersive experience also allows Lee to highlight its FWTW sustainability platform through a series of interactive buttons and movies that highlight innovations and activities geared to lessen the effect on people and the environment.
The virtual store’s navigation has been developed to allow consumers to come in from the street, enter the store, and browse products such as men’s and women’s clothing, as well as the exclusive Lee 101 collection. The virtual store is accessible via the Lee Jeans’ website and social media platforms.
PVH AND ECOVATIVE COLLABORATE ON A SUSTAINABLE FASHION COOPERATIVE
Ecovative has formed an international sustainable fashion cooperative with Bestseller and PVH Corp. Both Bestseller and PVH Corp. will get first access to Ecovative’s mycelium technologies and will collaborate with the company on the development of mycelium materials for goods and consumer applications. Ecovative has been generating mycelium for a variety of partners across the world, and will offer ForagerT Hides, an alternative leather material, in 2021.
Ecovative’s mycelium produces a ready-to-finish product that is free of plastic scrims and petroleum-based coatings. It is totally comprised of bio-based materials. Designers from Bestseller and PVH Corp., as well as Ecovative’s engineers, will collaborate with Fashion for Good Cooperative members to create, build, and test a research and development plan. Together, the cooperative will develop mycelium materials for the consumer market. “Working directly with fashion brands and tanneries, we make beautiful, high-performing and sustainable materials without harming animals or the planet,†said Gavin McIntyre, Ecovative co-founder and chief business officer.
PATAGONIA TO DONATE PROCEEDS FROM BLACK FRIDAY SALES FOR THE PLANET
US-based clothing brand, Patagonia, received an amazing $10 million in Black Friday sales, five above its own expectations, and will donate every penny to help save the environment as pledged. The high-end outdoor apparel and gear retailer revealed the record-breaking haul, stating that its customers’ “enormous passion” for the environment will benefit hundreds of grassroots environmental organizations worldwide. According to corporate spokeswoman Corley Kenna, the idea for the “fundraiser for the world” originated during an internal brainstorming gathering following the U.S. presidential election. Patagonia was looking for a means to raise awareness about the importance of the environment and climate change.
According to a press release, the funds earned via Patagonia’s Black Friday campaign will benefit grassroots environmental groups, many of which are small, underfunded, and off the radar, who are “working on the front lines to safeguard our air, water, and land for future generations.”
FOREVER 21 ENTERS METAVERSE WITH ROBLOX TO CREATE VIRTUAL FASHION STORES
Forever 21 collaborated with Roblox to create a digital experience. Users will be able to develop, own, and operate their own own business within the game, dubbed the Forever 21 Shop City. Clothing and accessories from Forever 21 will be available for purchase. As players strive to become the top store in the experience, they may hire non-player characters as employees. The experience is a community-focused game that will be accompanied by a number of partnerships. Roblox users @Builder Boy, @Beeism, @OceanOrbsRBX, and @JazzyX3 have collaborated to design an unique apparel collection for Forever 21 Shop City.
The shop will also have stores developed specifically by influencers such as KrystinPlays, Shaylo, and the Sopo Squad. Builders can choose and swap their locations anywhere in the game, perform tasks like stocking inventory and assisting customers, customise the interior, obtain merchandise that Forever 21 has released in its physical stores, and use architectural themes like cottage core and cyber punk for their stores. Obstacle courses, entertainment, a food court, and a yellow carpet will be available in Forever 21 Shop City’s four themed districts.
MARKS & SPENCER APPOINTS DIGITAL PRODUCT CHIEF TO BOOST ITS OMNICHANNEL OPERATIONS
Krista Nordlund, Marks & Spencer’s first chief digital product officer, has been appointed to strengthen the company’s digital capabilities. Nordlund is presently the chief product officer of RentPath, a digital rental marketplace in the United States that she joined in 2016. Her CV also includes posts at consumer-facing companies such as USA Today, Expedia, and US Airways. She will join M&S in January and will be responsible for developing improvements to the company’s app and website in order to improve the consumer experience across all digital touchpoints.
M&S has been undergoing a digital transition in recent years, with the goal of putting digital first rather than just seeing it as an extension of its physical operations. According to the company, this concentration has resulted in tremendous digital growth, as indicated by a 50% rise in app users by 2021. It currently has 14 million members in its redesigned Sparks loyalty programme.
“It’s a great time to be joining M&S as increasing numbers turn to online shopping and the business builds its omnichannel offering. I see a huge opportunity to support the next phase of our transformation by taking the digital experiences we offer customers to the next level.†said Nordlund on her appointment.
Continuing with the sustainable progress of denim brands, we provide you with some more brands that design jeans with eco-wise and sustainable efforts to aid you with the best possible buy this year.
1. BOYISH
LA brand Boyish is a member of The Jeans Redesign project from the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which outlines circular economy guidelines including making durable products. It also uses an ozone wash instead of chlorine bleach, a natural enzyme instead of polluting potassium permanganate, and REFIBRA, a fabric made using upcycled clothing and fabric scraps with Tencel. The brand also uses organic cotton certified by the Organic Content Standard (OCS Certified) and recycled cotton, which is the most sustainable cotton fiber source according to the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg Index. Its denim is cruelty-free and PETA approved. By 2023, 100% of the brand’s products will be made from plant-based fibers. It also plans to expand brand’s core collection to be more size inclusive and exceed living wage by 2023.
2. OUTERKNOWN
A brand established from an understated approach to design and an overstated approach to quality, material and consciousness, Outerknown launched its New Denim Project with Madewell on a capsule collection that featured coats, skirts and tops. Brought in WellThread X Outerknown collection made with single fiber polyester and cotton is fully recyclable down to the labels and snaps. The brand also launched Women’s stretch jeans with Coreva Stretch Technology from Milan’s Candiani mill. Ninety percent of the fibers the brand sources are organic, recycled or regenerated, and 100% of its trunks are made with recycled or renewable fibers. It also opened FutureShop, a planet-friendly online marketplace. Its goals comprise of: Making 75% of fabrics and 50% of products circular by 2030. To serve as a key catalyst and leader for circular innovation industry initiatives by 2025 and advocate to protect worker rights, safety, and livelihoods.
3. UNSPUN
Unspun won Marie Claire UK Sustainability Award for Best Sustainable Jeans 2021. It used AI and 3D modelling to create custom and on-demand jeans that are unique to every customer. This first-of-its-kind custom-fit denim collection was a big leap in the fashion industry as each pair of jeans is made-to-measure, cutting out excess waste. The brand is reducing the industry’s emissions by 30%. It also launched PanHemp, a new denim fabric in collaboration with Pangaia.
It also launched its Genesis Jeans which comprises of the fabric made with 99 percent GOTS certified organic cotton denim and 1 percent Lycra, and is washed using 100 percent recycled water and Greenscreen-approved chemicals. Unspun also ensures transparency element to its Genesis Jeans collection by including fashion tech firm Eon Group’s scannable CircularIDs to the jeans. Unspun’s 2021 sustainability goals include phasing out all cotton that is not recycled, organic or BCI and to eliminate all virgin poly from its fabrics. Other goals are reduce Co2 impact by 53% in near future and reduce global carbon emissions by 1%. The brand aims to 100 percent biodegradable and compostable packaging and use low-impact transportation to ship fabrics.
4. CLOSED
Closed’s sustainable gains include the launch of the world’s first 100 percent degradable stretch denim made with the biodegradable stretch yarn Coreva. The innovative jeans are part of Closed’s “A Better Blue†denim line, which is manufactured with sustainable materials, low-impact dyeing processes and environmentally friendly washing techniques in Italy to save resources. Closed also introduced Jacron back patches for its jeans as a sustainable vegan-alternative to leather.
Half of the men’s jeans, and 41 percent of the women’s denim in Closed’s Winter ’21 collection are a part of the A Better Blue line. The company followed the addition of organic cashmere in the F/W 21-22 range. It claims that it has saved 6,882,870 litres of water, 649,455 kWh of electricity, and 77,262 kg of solid waste of chemicals. Its future plans include: to provide PETA-approved vegan labeling, focus on making carbon-neutral supply chain and increasing the volume of A BETTER BLUE products to limit water, electricity and chemical consumption.
5. WARP+WEFT
The brand is on a mission to create the best sustainable denim in the world. Since the brand’s launch in 2017, they’ve sold more than 477,000 pairs of jeans and saved more than 572.4 million gallons of water. 98% of the water that goes into its denim is treated and recycled for additional use. To be completely transparent about its manufacturing process, Warp + Weft highlights elements like responsibly sourced cotton, eco-friendly dye from Dystar, water-saving techniques, and solar power. The brand also employs Ultra-absorbent Tencel fibers and waterless Dry Ozone technology, replacing bleach. It aims to launch a partnership with NGOs to provide clean drinking water in developing countries. For this it partnered with Charity: Water to provide a lifetime supply of water for 3,300 people for each pair of jeans sold.
6. PRIMARK
Leading retailer Primark has pledged to make clothes that can be “recyclable by design†by 2027. In addition, it plans to work with suppliers to halve carbon emissions throughout its supply chain while eliminating single-use plastics from its operations by 2027. Primark has also committed to pursuing a living wage for workers in its global supply chain by 2030 and has partnered with material innovators Unifi, Inc to bring their REPREVE Our Ocean fibre to its newest denim style.
The brand also partnered with Yellow Octopus, for a textile takeback service to divert garments from landfills in reusable pieces. It uses Sustainable Cotton Programme to trace the source of its sustainable cotton and is committed to training and educating 160,000 cotton farmers on more environmentally friendly farming practices by 2022. The brand launched its C2C Certified Gold Jeans which comes in a mom-fit and is made using a minimum of 50% renewable energy and 100% organic cotton. It has become a participant in the Circular Fashion Partnership, led by the Global Fashion Agenda that supports the development of the textile recycling industry in Bangladesh. The brand plans to provide living wage for its global supply chain workers by 2030.
7. KINGS OF INDIGO
Since 2012, Kings of Indigo has curated sustainable denim collections, making itself known as a leader in sustainable fashion. Fully PETA (vegan) approved since 2020, the brand uses 100% certified organic cotton; GOTS or OCS and EIM scored denim washes. It launched 100% Recycled jeans 40 pieces collection that contain 100% recycled fibres and uses TENCEL Lyocel fibres for denim production. The brand uses fully recycled and sustainable trims – metals, pocketing, paper. It launched Re-Gen: a capsule denim collection made from NO new cotton (50% recycled fibers and 50% Refibra Lyocell). 6. Ensures elimination of PP spray on denims.
KOI also uses ‘Retraced’, a new technology that maps out a brand’s full supply-chain, ruling out any and all greenwashing. The brand incorporates 100% carbon neutral Transport. Its plans to only use recycled natural or man-made fibers by 2025. KOI aims to use sustainable washing techniques for their denims by 2025 and also become carbon positive. It also strives to have full transparency through total supply chain by 2022.
8. KUYICHI
All denim produced by Kuyichi is made with one hundred percent organic cotton which reduces carbon emissions by up to sixty percent and some pairs incorporate post-consumer recycled denim. The boldest commitment Kuyichi made is its limit on the jeans it makes. To curb overconsumption and focus on jeans a customer will always wear, Kuyichi only sells a few timeless styles. All of their pure goods are produced in a conscious and innovative way, with a focus on quality denim with a perfect fit.
Kuyichi stopped making seasonal collections and doing sales to make a statement against fast fashion. It is a member of The Dutch Agreement on Sustainable Garments & Textiles (AGT). The brand is vegan and has a responsible business conduct (RBC) code. Some of its goals include: Make all denim with low impact washes and dye all denim fabrics with improved techniques by 2025; All denim will be sewn with ecoverde recycled Polyester sewing threads; Launching a new circular Business model pilot by 2021.
9. PATAGONIA
American clothing brand Patagonia has partnered with Finnish circular fashion and textile technology group Infinited Fiber Company for its regenerated textile fibre Infinna created out of textile waste. Additionally, Patagonia has collaborated with Natural Fiber Welding (NFW), a US-based material science company in a joint commitment to develop and scale circular solutions in textiles. Through its collaboration with NFW, it reaffirms its commitment to its customers to never compromise – on performance, on aesthetic, on responsibility for the planet.
The brand works hard to keep their products out of landfills. They collect and refurbish their old gear as part of five waste combating principles: Reduce, Reuse, Repair, Recycle and Reimagine. A program called “Worn Wear†allows consumers to buy used, as well as trade-in and fix their gear. The brand aims to be 100% carbon-neutral across entire supply chain by 2025 and source 100% of their energy from renewable projects. By 2025, the brand’s packaging will be 100% reusable, home compostable.
10. ÉTICA
ÉTICA is a sustainable lifestyle brand focused on premium denim and knits. It claims to have reduced water use by 90%, energy consumption by 63% and chemical use by 70% compared to industry standards. The company is a member of the Better Cotton Initiative, and some of its mills are also certified to OEKO-TEX Standard 100, Cradle to Cradle and GOTS. It also uses recycled cotton, REFIBRA, and Tencel in its denim lines and seasonal collections are made with deadstock and upcycled fabrics too.
As of 2021, the company’s fabrics are all free of microplastics, and all products are vegan-friendly as they are 100% free of animal materials (including fur and hide, with no trims, softeners, dyes, or other additives used that are derived from animals). ÉTICA’s Hang tags are made with soy-based inks and 100% recycled paper. The company aims to be plastic free at its headquarters and factories by 2022, become 100% potassium free and develop sustainable botanical dyes.. The brand owns Re/Make Seal of Approval for Environment, Transparency, Labor Rights certification.
11. GAP
Global retailer Gap has launched ” Generation Good” capsule made of 100% natural fibres and recycled fabrics. It has also launched five exclusive sustainable denim styles as part of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign Project. Currently, 91 percent of Gap denim is part of its water-saving Washwell programme, which it notes is better than its original 2021 goal of 75 percent. The brand also announced its first-ever brand of home essentials – Gap Home which features sustainable items that are made from organic cotton and recycled materials.
Gap collaborated with Kanye West for its Yeezy Jacket that is made up of recycled nylon and also acquired Drapr, an ecommerce startup and online application based on technology that enables customers to create 3D avatars and virtually try on clothing. The brand has committed to source 100 percent more sustainable cotton and is committed to converting 60 percent of its traditional polyester into recycled polyester by 2025. It also aims to eliminate plastic shopping bags by 2023.
12. WRANGLER & LEE (KONTOOR BRANDS)
Kontoor-brand Wrangler has been working on making jeans from regeneratively grown cotton. It also launched the Retro Green Jean collection made from sustainably produced cotton, hemp, or recycled fabric. Wrangler opened its new platform WeCare Wrangler to inform consumers of its sustainability goals, current measures, and partnerships centered around three core themes: planet, product, and people. The brand collaborated with Infinited Fibre Company, to use regenerated, recyclable fibre Infinna in its Autumn2021 denim collection.
Kontoor Brands also expanded its Indigood program in which its denim uses a foam dyeing process with no water, 89 percent fewer chemicals and 65 percent less energy with no discharge water. Lee teamed up with AppHarvest to be the exclusive denim provider for the company’s employees at its greenhouse. Kontoor brands sustainability goals include: save 10 billion litres of water by 2025, use 100 percent sustainably sourced cotton by 2025, increase Indigood-dyed products every year through 2025.
It’s always difficult to find the right jeans whose measures meet their branding. Consumers, designers, and suppliers have all been working together to re-imagine denim from the rivets up, owing to the growing awareness of the need for sustainable fashion. Below, we have enumerated some denim brands that design jeans with eco-wise and sustainable efforts to aid you with the best possible buy this year.
1. LEVI’S
Levi Strauss & Co. is a global leader in jeanswear and one of the world’s top brand-name apparel companies. This year, the brand launched its “Buy Better, Wear Longer,” Spring 2021 campaign, which raises awareness about shared responsibility and the environmental implications of apparel production and consumption. The introduction of 55% hemp blended fabrics, new natural-dye techniques, the expanded use of organically grown cotton, and the recyclability of every Wellthread garment was inculcated by the brand. Levi’s Wellthread used a technique by which ultrasonic waves are used to apply the dye to the fibre. The brand also used Water< Less techniques which have saved more than 3.5 billion litres of water since they were introduced nearly a decade ago. A few of the company’s central goals for the future are to use 100 per cent of sustainably produced cotton by 2025, its supply chain will have reduced greenhouse gas emissions by 40% and by 2030, water usage in the industry in water-stressed areas will be reduced by half.
2. NUDIE JEANS
This Swedish denim company delivers and preserves a tradition true to the fabric’s history and attributes by thinking in terms of wear, tear, and repair rather than fast fashion. Teaming up with London-based retailer Browns Fashion, Nudie Jeans has created a collection of 16 denim pieces, all reworked from pre-existing denim. The brand has already repaired 45900 jeans for free and has produced 98.6% Sustainable products. 2021 was the third full year in which it used only certified organic cotton for all the cotton products.
Moreover, according to its Sustainable Material Tool the brand defines a garment or accessory as sustainable when it contains at least 70% sustainable fibres. The brand aims to increase number GOTS-certified denim fabrics to reach 50% of all denim fabrics by 2022 and reach 100% renewable energy sources for electricity used in all Nudie Jeans operated facilities by changing energy subscription or investing in Renewable Energy Certificates by 2023. Nudie Jeans also plans to open 50 new permanent Repair spots, including Repair Shops, Partner stores and Repair partners in the coming years.
3. PANGAIA
Pangaia is a direct-to-consumer materials science company bringing breakthrough textile innovations and patents into the world through everyday lifestyle products. This year, the brand introduced its sustainable denim PANettle, a mix of naturally regenerating wild Himalayan nettle, organic cotton, and PPRMINT for longer-lasting freshness. To diversify its material sources and lessen reliance on traditional cotton, the company employs wild Himalayan nettle. The denim produced is coloured with state-of-the-art water and dye-saving technologies, and the thread is made entirely of biobased cellulose. Non-galvanized, recyclable stainless-steel buttons are also used in denim. The brand created FRUT FIBER and PLNT FIBER to replace cotton in their product line. The two cellulose fibre blends were successfully produced and supplied by Pangaia from fruit and plant raw material sources.
4. RE/DONE
Redone is known for reconstructing Levi’s vintage jeans into modern fits, giving a sense of uniqueness and rareness to each consumer. The brand debuted its first collection designed in line with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign project guidelines. All jeans are made of responsibly sourced 100 per cent organic cotton, recycled hardware, and bio-based patches, and include a hangtag with a QR code that provides consumers with a full traceability report documenting the lifecycle of each product. Items are shipped using recycled, oxo-biodegradable poly bags. The manufacturer also uses laser and e-flow technologies for energy- and water-saving washes and uses a three-stage purification system to reduce water waste. Since its launch, Re/Done reports that it has diverted more than 231,000 garments from landfills.
5. EVERLANE
A millennial-favourite DTC clothing brand, Everlane announced a very ambitious sustainability goal: to eliminate virgin plastic from its supply chain, packaging, offices and stores by 2021. By now, it has successfully removed 90% of all virgin plastics from its supply chain. Following through on its commitment to exclusively using certified-organic cotton by 2023, the denim brand debuted what it calls its cleanest denim to date. All items in the Clean range feature 98.5 per cent GOTS-certified organic cotton and 1.5 per cent Roica. Each piece is produced with microplastic-free dyes and recycled trim. It also debuted its Fall/Winter 2021 ad campaign entitled “Get into Denim†to adorn the brand’s collection of organic denim. Everlane is now looking for early-stage entrepreneurs to join the Next Collective, a fellowship program that will provide participants with $20,000 and access to industry leaders in sustainability, fashion, design, business and innovation.
6. MADEWELL
Madewell, which is known for its denim, is an apparel retailer that promotes creativity, diversity, and self-expression. This year, the brand introduced a new part of its website called “Madewell Forever,” which helps customers find a new home for their well-loved jeans, whether they’re clearing out their wardrobe and seeking a new home for them or they’re in the market for a new pair of denim.
Madewell Forever had around 3,000 pairs of secondhand Madewell jeans in a wide range of fits and styles, most of which ranged from $35 to $50. Furthermore, its spring 2021 collection called Summerweight Denim was designed to replace linen as one’s go-to choice for summer bottoms. The fabric is made from a blend of hemp and cotton which is wrinkle-free, moisture-wicking, breathable, and lightweight. The brand aims to source 100% sustainable and virgin-plastic-free fibres for all materials by 2025. It also aims to make more than 90% of its denim fair trade certified. By 2025, the brand strives to do carbon neutral operations entirely.
7. REFORMATION
The cult favourite label, Reformation has been dabbling in denim, through vintage capsules and designer collaborations. Reformation launched their denim collection in collaboration with FibreTrace, which labels fabrics with a unique pigment that can be tracked and validated throughout the garment supply chain. This effort is in line with Reformation’s goal of complete supply chain transparency by 2025. This year, the brand also signed the 2020 Circularity Fashion System Commitment Letter, with the goal of recirculating 500,000 garments in the next five years and have already been able to reuse or recycle 417,811 garments in 2021 itself. Reformation also teamed up with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign program to achieve its commitment to transforming the way jeans are produced.
8. OUTLAND DENIM
This Australian denim company gained popularity after Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, wore a pair on her royal tour in Australia in 2018. Measured through third-party Environmental Impact Measurement criteria, 97 per cent of Outland Denim’s washes are categorized as “low impact.†This year, Outland Denim expanded its rigid jeans options, collaborated with fellow Aussie brand Spell on a line of vintage-inspired denim staples, introduced ready-to-wear and celebrated a milestone in its traceability journey, marking 100 per cent traceability of its organic cotton denim. It also updated all-black denim to denim dyed using Saveblack, a process that uses 85 per cent less water compared to conventional dyeing. The company stated that it is targeting net-zero emissions by 2030 through practices, policies and by offsetting those emissions that cannot be reduced. It also commits to make 100% of the Outland Denim range leather-free and prioritise use of Bluesign certified chemicals.
9. MUD JEANS
A sustainable and fair trade certified denim brand based in the Netherlands, Mud Jeans has a business model to sell or rent jeans, at the end of their life and then make old jeans into new ones. It has a design process based on circular production, with the use of materials that are easy to repurpose and recycle. 36 of Mud Jeans’ 40 plus styles are made up of 40% post-consumer recycled cotton which is twice the industry average.
Out of 4000 certified B Corporations worldwide, MUD Jeans is among the 5% B Corps with the highest score in environmental performance. The Dutch fashion brand has also collaborated with Swedish home decor brand Ikea to give textiles a second lease of life, specifically, denim. Its sustainability goals include making 5% of its collection from 100% post-consumer recycled cotton by 2022, implementing traceability QR Code and launching new chemical policies for waste management.
10. FRAME
American fashion brand Frame launched Bio-Degradable jeans in partnership with Candiani made from 100 percent cotton that is 100 percent biodegradable. For its fall/winter 2021, Frame revamped its menswear line with trendy cuts for timeless pairs of washed black and indigo jeans. This year it also launched its circular denim collection under EMF Jeans Redesign Project that included denim pieces made of 100% cotton and post-consumer material.
For FRAME Winter 2021, 63% of the FRAME denim line is projected to be responsibly produced according to its Responsible Wash and Responsible Fabric Initiatives. Â 40% of the fibers in its Spring and Summer 2021 Collections are made with either recycled or water-saving cellulose fibers. Its future goals include: 75% of FRAME Denim is set to be sustainable by the end of 2022, 90% of FRAME denim is set to be sustainable by the end of 2025. The brand will launch ReFrame in the coming years.
Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 49
BETTER COTTON ALL SET TO REDUCE GHG EMISSIONS 50% BY 2030
World’s largest cotton certifier, Better Cotton has established a target of cutting its cotton’s overall greenhouse gas emissions per ton by half. Better Cotton has sought to make cotton production more sustainable across the world since its foundation in 2009. It has taught over 2.5 million farmers worldwide and raised 99 million euros since 2010, with that figure expected to rise to 125 million euros by the 2021-22 season.
According to recent research, Better Cotton manufacturing has a 19% lower GHG emissions intensity per ton of lint than production in China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan, and Turkey. Better Cotton expects to release four further objectives in 2022, with the target’s deadline set for 2030, based on a 2017 baseline. Soil health, pesticide usage, smallholder livelihoods, and women’s empowerment are all addressed. “This is a pledge for Better Cotton farmers and a stake in the ground for the global cotton sector. Nearly a quarter of the world’s cotton is currently produced under the Better Cotton Standard. We aim to at least double that by 2030.†said CEO of Better Cotton, Alan McClay.
KONTOOR BRANDS ANNOUNCES ITS 2020 SUSTAINABILITY REPORT
Kontoor Brands has presented its sustainability report for 2020. The business, which owns the brands’ Wrangler and Lee, has been devoted to improving its sustainability goal, with this being its second report in the two years since it went public. According to the report, Kontoor has cut its water use by more than 8 billion liters since 2008, and it is on track to save 10 billion liters by 2025.
Kontoor has also obtained 50% of its cotton responsibly, with the goal of utilizing 100% sustainably sourced cotton by 2025. The report also stated that Kontoor is on pace to employ 100 percent preferred chemistry by 2025 and plans to establish a climate target for carbon emissions in 2022. The business emphasized the social aspect of sustainability by establishing community development projects in Bangladeshi factories. The brand has also worked with the Herproject of Business for Social Responsibility, which aims to enhance access to healthcare for Bangladeshi textile workers.
TENCEL COLLABORATES WITH MORE THAN 40 BRANDS TO REDUCE CARBON EMISSIONS
Sustainable textile manufacturer Tencel has teamed up with over 40 brands, celebrities, and NGOs to launch the #MakeItFeelRight effort to decrease carbon emissions. The movement’s goal is to contribute to the worldwide reforestation effort in order to help rescue the earth, and it has already received over 7,500 pledges. Each commitment results in the planting of a tree.
Sustainable campaigners including Xenia Adonts, Lily Cole, and Chen Ai Ling, as well as businesses like Boyish, Reformation, and Lavender Hill, have endorsed Tencel. The brand also collaborated with artist Bodil Jane to produce promotional artwork, which was subsequently featured on the campaign’s website. “Carbon emissions are a global problem and as such must have global solutions. As a partner of the #MakeItFeelRight campaign we strongly believe that Tencel’s sustainability initiatives, which are enabled by brands and driven by consumers, are a great way to make a positive impact through reforestation,†said Diana Chaplin of One Tree Planted.
INDITEX, ZARA’S OWNER, REVEALS RECORD Q3 SALES AND PROFITS
Zara’s parent company stated record sales and earnings in the 3rd quarter of the year as it recovers from the pandemic. Inditex’s sales in the three months to October 31 were 21% higher than a year ago at constant currency and 10% higher than in 2019. According to the Spanish company, retail and online sales climbed by 33% between November 1 and December 10, 2020, and 10% between November 1 and December 10, 2019. The growth in sales aided the group’s 273 percent gain in net profit to 1.23 billion euros in the third quarter. Meanwhile, online sales increased by 124% in constant currency compared to 2019. According to the group, internet sales would make for more than 25% of total sales in FY2021. “Sales are returning to normal levels, and online sales continue to expand,” the business said of its present finances.
J.C. PENNEY WELCOMES THE EXPANSION OF FOREVER 21 TO 100 STORES
The addition of Forever 21 to JCPenney’s brand portfolio has been announced. The brand will be sold at 100 JCPenney shops around the United States, as well as on the retailer’s website. JCPenney’s reputation as a retailer for teenagers and adults will be strengthened by this action. The introduction of Forever 21 at JCPenney is being supported with a 360-degree marketing effort that includes in-store, e-commerce, social media, and direct mail advertising. The style of Forever 21 is inspired by the West Coast, with neutral and trendy aesthetics interwoven into its design. “Forever 21 and JCPenney share a mission to make the latest trends accessible to all while inspiring unique style and confidence. The addition of this brand to our portfolio rounds out our Young Minded assortment and brings an exciting new element of in-the-moment fashion,†said Michelle Wlazlo, executive vice president and chief merchandising officer at JCPenney.
H&M’S SALES UP BY 11% IN Q4 AS DEMAND SURGES
In local currencies, net sales at H&M Group climbed by 11% in the fourth quarter of 2021 compared to the same period the previous year. In local currency, the company’s net revenues climbed by 12% for the fiscal year 2021, according to a statement. Net sales climbed by 8% to 56,813 million Swedish krona in the fourth quarter, and by 6% to 198,967 million Swedish krona for the entire year when converted to SEK. Despite persistent limitations and the pandemic’s negative impacts, the H&M group’s earnings in local currencies were up to the same level as in the fourth quarter of 2019. Around 100 stores were temporarily shut at the start of the quarter, mostly in Southeast Asia. Around 115 stores were mostly closed at the end of the quarter, predominantly in Austria and Slovakia.
Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 48
BETTER COTTON RELEASES ITS FIRST-EVER IMPACT REPORT
Better Cotton has released its first-ever Impact Report, which shares the most recent field-level results (2019-20 cotton season) as well as assesses how licensed Better Cotton farmers in China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan, and Turkey performed on environmental, social, and economic criteria when compared to those who did not participate in the Better Cotton programme. Better Cotton farmers in Tajikistan used 16% less water than Comparison Farmers, Better Cotton farmers in India had 9% higher yields, and Better Cotton farmers in Pakistan used 12% less synthetic insecticide. According to Better Cotton’s study, results are displayed by nation and by sustainability indicator.
While Better Cotton focuses largely on assisting farmers on the ground, the study also takes into account factors such as pesticide, fertilizer, and water consumption, as well as acceptable employment, yields, and earnings. With continual development as a guiding concept for Better Cotton, the paper examined how improving processes and services might have a stronger impact. This includes significant projects such as the traceability workstream and the modification of the Better Cotton principles and standards. “What we all want to see in terms of sustainability is impact. To ensure that we are making a real difference, we gather outcomes data whenever feasible,” said Alia Malik, senior director of Data and Traceability.
BURBERRY PARTNERS WITH MY WARDROBE HQ TO OFFER ITS FIRST-EVER RENTAL AND RESALE SERVICE
As part of the British luxury fashion house’s drive to circular fashion, Burberry has teamed with My Wardrobe HQ to launch a rental and resale platform. According to the new scheme, customers may rent coats, handbags, and accessories from My Wardrobe HQ for up to 14 days. Customers may purchase rented things for a portion of the retail price, with weekly rental costs varying from £41 to £170. Resale prices will vary from £111 for scarves to £750 for trench coats, which retail for £1,990.
Whilst a large percentage of the inventory comes from the legacy brand, the rental catalogue also includes verified gifts from VIP clients and the My Wardrobe HQ community. The agreement will help Smart Works, a UK charity that provides high-quality interview apparel and coaching to disadvantaged jobless women, by donating 40% of the revenues from each sale. The luxury brand has donated products to the charity since 2013. Burberry’s VP of corporate responsibility, Pam Batty, stated that their collaboration with My Wardrobe HQ is complimentary to their larger goal of becoming climate positive by 2040 and supporting the ideals of a circular economy for luxury. Building new collaborations and revaluation solutions, as well as extending reuse, repair, donation, and recycling options, are all part of this.
NIKE, PANTAGONIA AND C&A FACE XINJIANG CLAIMS FOR FORCED LABOUR
A majority of internationally recognized fashion labels, including Nike, C&A and Patagonia, are being filed a lawsuit by the European Center for Constitutional Rights (ECCHR) as being directly or indirectly implicated in the forced labour of the Uyghur community in the Xinjiang province in China. The criminal case, which was filed by Dutch prosecutors with the help of Prakken d’Oliveira Human Rights Lawyers, will look into the corporations’ alleged cooperation in human rights breaches that potentially amount to crimes against humanity.
The Business and Human Rights Resource Centre, a UK and US-registered organization that works to enhance human rights in business and eliminate abuse broke the news of the filing. “Alarming stories regarding torture, re-education camps, and forced labour in China’s Xinjiang region have risen in frequency since 2017,” according to the filing. The companies have suppliers with production facilities in Xinjiang, according to research reports and publicly available supply chain information revealed by the researched brands.” The ECCHR accuses the corporations of “directly or indirectly abetting and benefiting” from Uyghur Muslims’ forced labour in the region, which produces more than a fifth of the world’s cotton.
ITALY BASED PEUTEREY JOINS THE BLUESIGN SYSTEM AS A PARTNER
Peuterey has joined the Bluesign system, pledging to achieve the most stringent sustainability standards in terms of resource efficiency, environmental impact, workplace health and safety, and consumer protection. The Bluesign Input Stream Management system avoids the usage and release of dangerous chemicals throughout the manufacturing process. The Bluesign system is the most stringent standard for the textile industry, with its comprehensive approach, and adopting it means satisfying these standards without sacrificing product functionality, quality, or design. By producing functional, inclusive, and sustainable clothes that will persist throughout time, the company hopes to contribute to a more egalitarian, fair, and successful society.
“We are thrilled to announce that leading Italian brand Peuterey decided to become a Bluesign System partner, showing their strong commitment to the responsible use of resources, responsible production, and responsible chemistry. We look forward to supporting Peuterey on their quest towards excellence in sustainable fashion,†said Kutay Saritosun, head of marketing and communication, Bluesign. In the spirit of a #betterfuture, Peuterey also pledges to put an end to reckless natural resource use by minimising waste and adhering to the principles of the circular economy. According to a press release from Peuterey, the revolutionary Peuterey Recycle project is a limited edition that creatively rethinks the recovery of vintage materials, bringing scraps, accessories, padding, and textiles back to life ensuring 0 percent waste, 100 percent innovation.
LULULEMON ATHLETICA’S SALES RISE BY 30% IN Q3
Lululemon Athletica Inc. recorded a 30 percent growth in net sales to 1.5 billion dollars in the third quarter, whereas net revenue climbed 28 percent on a constant currency basis. In a statement, the firm stated that net revenue climbed by 28% in North America and 40% overseas. On a constant dollar basis, total comparable sales climbed by 27%. On a constant dollar basis, comparable store sales climbed 32 percent or 31 percent, while direct-to-consumer net revenue increased 23 percent or 21 percent to 586.5 million dollars. Gross profit grew 32% to $829.4 million in the third quarter, while gross margin improved 110 basis points to 57.2 percent.
In the third quarter of 2020, diluted profits per share were 1.44 dollars, up from 1.10 dollars in the previous quarter, and adjusted diluted earnings per share were 1.62 dollars, up from 1.16 dollars. During the third quarter, the brand launched 18 additional company-operated stores, bringing the total number of company-operated stores to 552. “Our third-quarter results demonstrate the ongoing strength of Lululemon and the tremendous growth potential of the business in both the near- and long-term. We are pleased with our early holiday season performance,†said Calvin McDonald, CEO.
FOR FY21, GAP GENERATES $3.9 BILLION REVENUE IN Q3
Gap, Inc., reported net sales of $3.9 billion in the third quarter of fiscal 2021. The company’s gross profit climbed to $1.66 billion from $1.62 billion in the third quarter of FY20. The current quarter’s gross margin of 42.1% is the greatest for a third-quarter in decades. Online sales increased by 48% year on year, as the company continues to focus on digital power by making an investment in its e-commerce platform, wisely closing unprofitable stores, and partnering to strengthen in international markets. Old Navy’s net sales went up by 8% year on year compared to the same quarter in 2019, while Gap’s global comparable sales increased by 7% year on year. Similarly, Athleta’s net sales went up by 48% as compared to the third quarter of 2019. During the current quarter of the fiscal year 2021, the company also paid a dividend of $0.12 per share. Reflecting on Q3 FY21 results, the business now forecasts full-year sales growth to be around 20% higher than in FY20.
OWING TO THE UYGHUR PROBE, ZARAÂ REFUSED TO EXTEND ITS FRENCH STORE
Zara has been denied permission to extend a French store due to sustainability concerns and allegations of exploitation of China’s Muslim Uyghur minority. Inditex, the parent company of Zara, said that Zara France will appeal the decision. The decision to deny Zara’s proposal to expand its store came from a local administrative department, according to a representative for the town hall of Bordeaux in southwest France. The decision was based on a French inquiry into Inditex and many other stores’ use of forced Uyghur labour in Xinjiang, according to the spokeswoman. The administrative department is also concerned about the environmental impact of rapid fashion. Inditex has denied using coerced Uyghur labour in their manufacturing process. Zara intends to challenge the national commission’s decision on the retailer’s planning proposal.
PRIMARK TO INVEST €250 MILLION IN STORE EXPANSIONS
Primark plans to invest €250 million in store renovation and the opening of a new distribution centre. The relocation is estimated to generate up to 700 new employment.The investment comprises €60 million for the renovation of its Patrick Street shop in Cork city, as well as another €75 million for the establishment of a new distribution centre in Newbridge, County Kildare. In addition, a €20 million renovation of Primark’s Eyre Square shop in Galway is planned. Notably, Primark, known as Penneys in Ireland, plans to extend its selling area in the nation by roughly 20% over the next ten years. Furthermore, the apparel retailer intends to increase its entire staff in Ireland by 12% over the next three years, including over 600 retail roles. In addition, it plans to hire 100 more employees in the next six months at its headquarters, Arthur Ryan House. The new positions will be in a variety of sectors, including technology, buying, retail, design, finance, and others.
PACSUN IS SET TO RELEASE THE FIRST NFT
Pacsun has announced the official launch of its first NFT. Pacsun’s NFT will be an exclusive animation of its original logo, capitalising on the digital trend that appears to have infected the fashion industry as a whole. The auction has begun at 0.1087 ETH, or $515.35 USD. Pacsun will give 100% of the earnings from the purchase of the NFT to the Fashion Scholarship Fund in honour of the brand’s 40th anniversary. Every year, the foundation grants over a million dollars in scholarships to brilliant young students from varied backgrounds in order to help them flourish in the fashion business. Pacsun has entered the digital art realm with labels such as Dolce & Gabbana, Jimmy Choo, and, most recently, JW Anderson, which plans to offer its iconic Harry Styles approved knit sweater in NFT form.
Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 46
ABERCROMBIE & FRITCH’S DOMESTIC SALES FULED REVENUE GROWTH IN Q3
Abercrombie & Fitch Co. announced third-quarter net sales of $905.2 million on Tuesday, up 10% from $819.7 million the year before, boosted by a 17 percent rise in the United States, the company’s largest market. The company’s net sales in the United States for the third quarter ended October 30, 2021, were $654.9 million, up from $557.8 million the previous year. Abercrombie & Fitch Co.’s overall Q3 net sales grew 5% compared to the pre-Covid-19 third quarter of 2019 when revenues were $863.5 million. Digital sales for the quarter were $413 million, up 8% year over year and 55% when compared to the same time two years ago. The company’s quarterly net income was $47.2 million, or $0.77 per diluted share, compared to $42.3 million, or $0.66 per diluted share, in the third quarter of 2020. Abercrombie & Fitch generated net profits of $197.5 million, or $3.10 per diluted share, for the first half of the year, compared to a loss of $196.4 million, or $3.14 per diluted share, for the same period the previous year. Net sales for the nine-month were $2.55 billion, up 27% from $2.00 billion the previous year. “We were very pleased with our third-quarter results,†said Abercrombie & Fitch CEO Fran Horowitz in a release.
M&S BOOSTS BRAND OWNERSHIP, ACQUIRES SHARE ON NOBODY’S CHILD
M&S is all set to increase its market offering, and its most recent step is to purchase a 25% stake in Nobody’s Child for an undisclosed figure. The retail giant, which launched the label to its offering last year, appears to be satisfied with the outcomes of the collaboration, stating that “after a great first year of working together,” it is “developing its engagement” with the company. The most popular product category with M&S consumers has been the selection of midi dresses, with dresses accounting for 12% of Nobody’s Child purchases placed on M&S.com to far. The store stated that the “eco-conscious, affordable” brand will continue to operate autonomously, “but with the ability to build the business using M&S’s investment and infrastructure.” M&S will profit greatly from Nobody’s Child’s agility, including the brand’s focus on near-sourcing supply, which has previously been highlighted as a growth prospect, in addition to being an exciting investment opportunity.“Nobody’s Child was the first brand to launch on M&S.com and has proved incredibly popular with new and existing M&S customers, said Richard Price, MD, M&S Clothing and Home.
CLOTHING MANUFACTURERS IN JAPAN OPT TO CEASE ZINJIANG COTTON
Garment manufacturers all around the world have been vocal in their opposition to cotton grown in China’s western Xinjiang region, and now Japanese apparel manufacturers are following suit. According to Nikkei Asia, a renowned Japanese financial daily, Japanese clothing makers, including Sanyo Shokai and TSI Holdings, have chosen to discontinue using Xinjiang cotton, following in the footsteps of Mizuno, a major sports equipment and sportswear firm, and others. Sanyo Shokai, which distributes garments under the Paul Stuart, Epoca, and Mackintosh Philosophy labels, will discontinue the use of Xinjiang cotton in the spring/summer of 2022. Shinji Oe, President of Sanyo Shokai, stated that the corporation has acquired information on human rights violations in Xinjiang but has been unable to verify the facts. It’s also evident that Fast Retailing, the company behind the Uniqlo casual clothesline, has set up a mechanism to monitor the manufacturing of the commodities it uses, including cotton, for suspected human rights breaches and other ethical issues. To ensure ethical manufacturing, Tadashi Yanai, the company’s chairman, and CEO, has committed to “achieve high levels of traceability” across the supply chain, down to cotton farmers.
GOOGLE UNVEILS THE GLOBAL FIBRE IMPACT EXPLORER (GFIE) TOOL FOR FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN
Google is collaborating with Stella McCartney, The Textile Exchange, and the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) on the Global Fibre Impact Explorer (GFIE) tool to assist the fashion industry to become more sustainable. The tool is designed to assist companies in understanding the environmental challenges associated with acquiring the raw materials they use, allowing them to make more environmentally conscious decisions. Google collaborated with McCartney “to understand the industry’s demands and to test the platform,” and a few other prominent brands and stores, like Adidas, Allbirds, H&M Group, and VF Corporation, were also involved in the pre-release process. It is now encouraging people to express their interest in utilizing it. The initial version of the GFIE is built on Google Earth Engine and uses Google Cloud computing to analyze the environmental risk of various fibres in connection to aspects like air pollution, biodiversity, climate, and greenhouse gas emissions, forestry, and water consumption. The tool should make it simple to “detect environmental concerns across over 20 fibre types — including natural, cellulosic, and synthetic materials.” It will also make suggestions for targeted and geographically relevant risk mitigation measures to brands.
MADEWELL STIMULATES HOLIDAY ENGAGEMENT WITH ITS INSIDER LOYALTY PROGRAM UPDATE
Madewell Insider, the J.Crew Group-owned brand’s loyalty program, started in the United States in 2016 and was broadened in 2020 to include more rewards for members. Members enjoyed early access to Madewell’s Black Friday sale, as well as a special gift with purchase on purchases over $125, free monogramming, and access to in-store stylists for gift assistance, all leading up to the Christmas shopping season. Members are rewarded on a sliding scale under the new scheme, with Madewell Insider status decided by how much a consumer spends each calendar year. Members receive a $10 incentive for every 250 points they acquire. On certain days throughout the year, Madewell Star and Icon members (those who spend $500 and $1,000, respectively) get triple points. “This holiday season our goal is to ‘Make it Magic’ for our customers and get them excited to shop. We want to cement for our customers that Madewell is the top destination for an incredible shopping experience and there’s no better time of year to show what you’re made of than the holiday season.†said Derek Yarbrough, Madewell chief marketing officer.
Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 44
WITH THE ‘SECOND HAND’ PROJECT, DIESEL ENTERS THE RESALE MARKET
Diesel is releasing a “carefully curated edit” of vintage denim that has been repaired and renewed in select Italian storefronts and online all over Europe. The ‘Second Hand’ project intends to provide a “unique and inspirational approach to take actions towards circularity,” according to Diesel, by allowing customers to continue Diesel merchandise in use for forthcoming years.
During the summer, the process began with denim buyback programmes in select Italian stores, and Diesel gathered 900 pairs of jeans to give them a second chance at life. The reselling project will also serve to decrease a pair of denim jeans’ carbon and water footprint. Furthermore, all clothing is sprayed with Viral off and Odor Crunch, a Polygiene-developed combination treatment with anti-microbial and odour-resistant qualities that allows for less frequent laundry throughout consumer usage. Diesel ‘Second Hand’ merchandise may be purchased at three selected stores in Italy: Milan, Florence, and Rome, as well as online at diesel.com from anywhere in Europe. Diesel also stated that its buyback denim program will keep going in Italy.
AUSTRIAN TEXTILE BRAND LENZING, RETURNS TO PROFITABILITY IN THE THIRD QUARTER
In the third quarter (Q3) of FY21, which concluded on September 30, 2021, Lenzing Group, an Austrian pioneer in sustainable specialty fibers, reported a revenue increase of 32.9% to €1.59 billion, up from €1.2 billion in the same time of 2020. The nine-month net profit increased to €113.4 million (Q3 FY20: loss €23.3 million). According to the company, the success during the reporting period was attributed to greater sales volume as well as higher viscose pricing, which reached more than RMB 15,000 (renminbi) in May due to considerably stronger demand for fibers, particularly in Asia. EBITDA (profits before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization) more than quadrupled to €297.6 million (€138.5 million) in the third quarter.
Lenzing expects EBITDA to reach €360 million in FY21, according to its forecast. Furthermore, the need for sustainably generated fibers for the textile and garment sectors, as well as the hygiene and medical industries, is expected to continue to expand. Because of a variety of legislative actions, this tendency is expected to continue unabated beyond the COVID-19 pandemic.
KONTOOR BRANDS ANNOUNCES RESULTS FOR THE THIRD QUARTER OF 2021
Kontoor Brands Inc., which owns the Wrangler and Lee brands, boosted its fiscal 2021 estimation this week by releasing third-quarter financial results. In 2020, revenue is predicted to grow by a high-teens percentage to $2.47 billion to $2.48 billion, up from a mid-teens percentage in the previous projection. In comparison to the 41.2% achieved in 2020, the adjusted gross margin is now expected to grow to the high end of the earlier projection range of 44.5% to 45% of revenue. Revenue climbed 12% to $652 million in the third quarter ended Oct. 2, principally due to growth in digital, especially own.com and digital wholesale, as well as better performance throughout the U.S. wholesale business and good trends in overseas markets. Net income increased 4.3% to $63.41 million in the third quarter, up from $60.79 million the previous year.
EBITDA (earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization) was $94.23 million. Adjusted EBITDA increased 1% to $111 million. “Kontoor is uniquely positioned to win in the marketplace, as evidenced by another quarter of broad-based strength across segments, channels, and regions. And we expect our momentum to continue building, as reflected in our raised fiscal year guidance. Our strategic investments in key TSR-bolstering enablers such as digital, demand creation, and people should fuel our accelerating fundamentals,†said Scott Baxter, President, and Chief Executive Officer, Kontoor Brands.
VICUNHA USES POLYGIENE’S STAY FRESH TECH FOR ITS FABRICS
Polygiene, a Swedish chemical business, is gaining traction in the denim industry. Vicunha, a Brazilian denim mill, is the latest to incorporate its Stay Fresh technologies into fabrics, a suite of solutions designed to keep garments clean and odour-free between washes. Polygiene’s BioStatic and OdorCrunch technologies are used to treat the mill’s 2021-2022 collection. Polygiene Biostatic is an antimicrobial technique that inhibits the growth of odour-causing bacteria, hence preventing the stink from spreading.
Polygiene OdorCrunch eliminates odours from the surroundings such as kitchen fumes, cigarette smoke, or body odour by encapsulating and splitting the molecules, so eliminating the irritating aroma from the clothing. Although the technologies have been embraced by companies large and small, such as Diesel and Hiut Denim, Polygiene states that Vicunha is the first Latin American mill to apply them. Vicunha’s products are offered in denim and denim colour bases. “The partnership with Vicunha is a milestone for us in the denim segment and a breakthrough in the Brazilian market in general,†said Ulrika Björk, Polygiene CEO. “We are very proud to start working with this global leader and see it as a long-term cooperation for a more sustainable textile industry, and society.†Products like Polygiene’s are becoming more popular as customers embrace more responsible methods of closet maintenance.
Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 42
Inditex, Amazon, and Patagonia jointly prepared to commit to zero-carbon shipping by 2040
Inditex, Amazon, and Patagonia have joined the Cargo Owners for Zero-Emission Vessels (coZEV) alliance, committing to achieve carbon-free shipping by 2040. A significant group of companies has declared their ambition to transfer all of their ocean freights to zero-carbon emission boats by 2040, as part of a new cargo owner-led network sponsored by the Aspen Institute. The firms that signed the agreement hope that the announcement would heighten the feeling of urgency around this problem and increase investor confidence in the promise of zero-carbon shipping.
Inditex, Amazon, Brooks Running, Patagonia, Tchibo, Unilever, Michelin, Frog Bikes, and Ikea signed the ambitious pact. For the first time, the coZEV agreement will allow firms to build zero-carbon marine transportation corridors, signaling the hope that consumer products producers and merchants will collaborate. Furthermore, the signatories have urged policymakers to begin taking steps toward comprehensive decarbonization. The partnership aims to spur measures that reduce the cost of the zero-carbon transition.
H&M aims to establish a blockchain rental business in Germany
In partnership with the circular fashion organization Lablaco, fast-fashion retailer H&M will debut the new rental service platform Spin at its Berlin-based shop. The rental service, which will be headquartered at the H&M Mitte Garten, will help customers to reserve and pay for a garment in advance, with a deadline to return it to be washed and readied for the next renter. The blockchain-based service is built on the Internet of Things (IoT) technology, which connects several databases via software and sensors.
Customers’ smartphones can scan IoT care labels on rental clothing, allowing them to follow product travels and contribute memories to the garments by uploading their pictures. Using Spin, H&M and Lablaco want to investigate the possibilities of this rental style in the digitally cyclical fashion business. The facility will be accessible at the store through the end of the year, with a variety of collections available for rent, the first of which consists of 12 separate pieces. Rental periods range from five to three weeks, with rates ranging from five to nine euros per day.
Intermix releases Intermix for Good Tour to promote denim recycling
Intermix, a multi-brand apparel shop located in the United States, has announced the launch of its Intermix for Good Tour, a statewide sustainability program that combines denim recycling with community development via giving back. Intermix is collaborating with Cotton’s Blue Jeans Go GreenTM program to gather cotton denim that can be upcycled to produce anything new as part of its goal to build a more sustainable future. Customers who drop in an old pair of jeans will get a 20% discount on a new pair of jeans, which will be recycled via Cotton’s Blue Jeans Go GreenTM campaign.
Intermix CEO Jyothi Rao stated that the company is committed to incorporating more eco-friendly practices into its operations and is excited to be collaborating with Cotton Incorporated’s Blue Jeans Go GreenTM denim recycling initiative. They’ve always been recognized for having the greatest pair of jeans, and with this initiative, they’re prolonging the life of those jeans and demonstrating that fashion and sustainability can cohabit. As a major part of their Intermix for Good Tour, they will also perform beach and city cleanups with their retail partners that are devoted to the cause, forming a community working to build a sustainable tomorrow.
Lenzing extends its denim range with the introduction of matte TencelTM lyocell fibers
Lenzing Group, Austria’s largest viscose manufacturer, is increasing its sustainable portfolio for the denim sector with the introduction of matte TENCELTM branded lyocell fibers. The new fiber type was created particularly to scatter light and permanently eliminate shine in denim applications, making indigo-dyed denim textiles more flexible. The use of matte TENCEL Lyocell fibers increases denim design possibilities while reducing the environmental impact of the final fabric and garment, combining practicality and beauty.
The new fiber type retains all of the comfort features of traditional TENCELTM Lyocell fibers while giving dark indigo dye textiles a deep, lusterless look. Lenzing is pleased to announce the launch of the new matte TENCELTM branded lyocell fibers at the Kingpins Digital Show in collaboration with global mill partners Advance Denim (China), Artistic Fabric Mills Pvt. Ltd (Pakistan), Arvind Limited (India), Kipas Denim (Turkey), KG Denim Limited (India), Panther Denim/ Tat Fung, and Textil Santanderina. The new matte TENCEL Lyocell fibers are entirely traceable thanks to this technology, guaranteeing both brands and customers that the raw materials used are obtained ethically.
Daniel Kulle has stepped down as CEO of Forever 21
According to the article, Kulle announced in an email to his contacts this week that he has resigned from his position and would be “taking some time off to figure out my next step.” Kulle began working for Forever 21 in February 2020, while the store was being acquired out of bankruptcy by Authentic Brands Group, Simon Property Group, and Brookfield Property Partners. He was entrusted with rebuilding the business when it went bankrupt as part of his job.
Before joining Forever 21, the retail veteran worked for H&M for 25 years, where he worked as a strategic consultant and was a member of a steering committee for three new digital start-ups inside the H&M Group. “We appreciate all that Daniel has contributed throughout his time with the brand and wish him the best in his future endeavors,†said Marc Miller, CEO of SPARC. In September 2019, Forever 21 filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection, succumbing to the growing demand for online shopping and shifting design trends. The American apparel business eventually agreed to sell its holdings for $81 million to Authentic Brands Group, Simon Property Group, and Brookfield Property Partners.
Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 40
Levi Strauss earnings hit record highs as new denim trends boost sales
Levi Strauss & Co. reported fiscal third-quarter earnings and sales that exceeded analysts’ expectations, as consumer demand increased during the back-to-school season and shoppers stocked up on the latest denim trends. Its stock rose more than 2% in extended trading on the news, after closing the day down more than 5%. Even though many apparel companies have been impacted by global supply chain bottlenecks, Levi has fared well in comparison due to its diverse manufacturing.
According to the company, Vietnam accounts for less than 4% of its global volume. During the pandemic, production facilities were severely impacted by periodic shutdowns. “Our supply chain is truly a source of competitive advantage,” said CEO Chip Bergh. “We have a lot of agility in moving product around.” For the last 18 months, we’ve been running the company through various scenarios.” Net income increased to $193 million, or 47 cents per share, up from $27 million, or 7 cents per share, the previous year.
With one-time items excluded, the company earned 48 cents per share. Profits of 37 cents per share were predicted by analysts. Revenue increased 41% year on year to $1.5 billion from $1.06 billion. This came in slightly higher than the $1.48 billion predicted. According to Bergh, Levi’s revenue was reduced by about $10 million due to supply chain issues. Digital transactions increased by 10% year over year and by 76% over two years. They accounted for roughly 20% of Levi’s total sales. The company stated that its earnings increased as a result of Levi selling more items directly to consumers at higher prices.
British Fashion and Textile Technology awards grants to SMEs for sustainable progression
The British Fashion and Textile Technology (BFTT) research and development programme have awarded an additional 1.1 million pounds to 13 small-to-medium-sized enterprises that prioritize sustainability, innovation, and social purpose in their business models. This latest injection of funds follows a 1.2 million pound investment in ten of the UK’s leading SMEs in 2020, as well as 500,000 pounds of collaborative research funding across three additional BFTT projects, bringing the total investment to approximately 2.8 million pounds across 35 SMEs, with at least 20 new jobs created.
Surface finishing processes and natural dyeing, embedded use of traceable raw materials, high-value recycling of fashion and textile industry waste, sensing technologies for healthcare, bio-materials, non-woven textiles, on-shoring of state-of-the-art manufacturing, and novel digital solutions are among the subsectors and research and development areas covered by the new 1.1 million pounds of funding. Dash and Miller and Jessica Garvey Birch (partnership), Grady and Robinson and Phoebe English (partnership), Iinouiio, Keracol, and Bulm are among the companies receiving grants.
H&M and IKEA Large-Scale Study Demonstrates a Safer Route Forward for Recycled Textiles
H&M Group and Inter IKEA Group are major firms with ambitious material goals and both have committed to using only 100 % renewable, recycled, or other sustainably sourced materials by 2030. While the aforementioned flurry of innovations may make this appear simple, finding clean and reliable sources of recyclable materials which, as it turns out, is much more difficult and is a critical step in making good on these promises.
In 2019, the two companies teamed up to address this industry-wide issue, launching a large-scale study on toxic chemicals found in recycled textiles sourced from all over the world joined the effort, to strategically increase knowledge, exchange data, and encouraging chemical transparency across the industry. Adidas, Bestseller, Gap, Kingfisher, and PVH Corp have earlier joined the study as contributors in the fall of 2020. With the size and presence of all involved companies, there is a great opportunity to drive the necessary change. Even though the study is now complete, there is still much work to be done. Following the completion of a two-year collaborative industry study, the two companies will share the findings to better understand the potentials and challenges of recycled textiles in terms of chemical contamination, as well as to influence circular economy legislation.
Youth Fashion Giant Pacsun will now accept Cryptocurrency
Pacsun, the multibrand retailer, has announced that it will now accept bitcoin and other cryptocurrencies through blockchain payment provider BitPay, making it one of the first major retailers to do so. Its decision is based on a GoBankingRates report, which stated that the payment method is a major trend among the Gen Z audience. The retailer noted that its significance arises from the digital generation, as well as an increase in celebrity endorsements of cryptocurrency adoption. “The Gen Z audience, our primary consumer, is very tech-oriented, and we dedicated a lot of our efforts towards social media and e-commerce to align with their lifestyles and resonate with them on a more personal level.
Seeing their increasing desire towards cryptocurrency, it was clear that we needed to adjust and offer BitPay as another payment option, to further instill their confidence in us as one of their go-to retailers that truly listen,†said Michael Relich, co-CEO of Pacsun. Pacsun will accept 11 different cryptocurrencies, including Bitcoin, Ethereum, Dogecoin, and Litecoin, as well as 11 different crypto wallets. It joins luxury brand Phillip Plein in taking tech-forward payments, which was implemented in August by the Swiss company. Other retailers have started selling gift cards as a payment option.
Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 39
7 For All Mankind launches completely traceable collection
Denim label 7 For All Mankind has used new technologies to create a line that it claims is entirely traceable from cotton seed to shelf. Traceability The Powered by FibreTrace programme is the most recent addition to 7 For All Mankind’s Sustainable For All Mankind platform. It includes ready-to-wear and denim designs for both men and women, as well as FibreTrace traceability technology and the world’s first third-party, confirmed carbon-positive cotton, Good Earth Cotton. FibreTrace technology is characterized as an unbreakable, luminous pigment that is incorporated in raw fiber. It is a patented mechanism that tracks, assesses, and audits fiber in real-time at every stage of the global textile supply chain.
Ralph Lauren has joined the Strategic Partner Group of the Global Fashion Agenda
Global Fashion Agenda, a non-profit organization, has announced that the Ralph Lauren Corporation will join its group of Strategic Partners, to drive the fashion industry into a more sustainable future. Along with several other fashion professionals from throughout the industry, the organization will play an active part in the creation of the Global Fashion Agenda’s thought leadership platform and Fashion CEO Agenda.
The organization, which is also in charge of the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, acknowledged Ralph Lauren’s current sustainable initiatives, implying that it chose the brand to be a participant of its inner circle. The agenda seeks to inspire companies to include circular design methods into their production, such as incorporating used clothing, resold items, and recycled post-consumer textiles into their supply chain. The agreement, which will take effect in October 2021, will aid the fashion corporation’s Design the Change initiative, which is part of its 2021 Global Citizenship and Sustainability Report.
WELLTHREAD BY LEVI INTRODUCES PLANT-BASED DYES
Natural dyes are the newest environmentally friendly materials to be utilized in Levi’s WellThread, the heritage brand’s flagship product that acts as a laboratory for sustainable innovation. The men’s and women’s collections include organic cotton and cottonized hemp materials dyed using Stony Creek Colors’ new line of sustainable, plant-based dye technologies. The company, located in Springfield, Tenn., has developed and tested technology that allows it to sustainably provide the market with indigo plant-based dye, facilitating a shift away from hazardous, synthetic, petroleum-based methods.
According to Levi’s, the dye used in the collection is the outcome of a multi-year development collaboration with Sarah Bellos, creator of Stony Creek Colors. The result is vivid natural indigo denim made from 100% organic cotton by Levi’s long-time mill partner Cone.
Gap Inc. has published its 2020 Global Sustainability Report
Gap Inc. has issued its 2020 Global Sustainability Report, which summarises the business’s initiatives and progresses toward its sustainability goals. The report details the worldwide efforts of the company and each of its brands, including Old Navy, Gap, Banana Republic, and Athleta. The report contains a corporate study on the development of an inclusive workplace, community participation, and equality programmes, as well as an outline of a variety of long-term efforts undertaken by both brands and the firm as a whole.
The company has also outlined its commitment to eliminate single-use plastics by 2030, a goal it is well on track to meet with various partnerships in the industry, including as a signatory member of the Fashion Pact, which aims to find alternatives to single-use plastics. By including its  Advancement and Career Enhancement Programme, Gap Inc. has acknowledged its commitment to reaching one million women and girls by 2022. In addition to helping 804,000 women advance in their careers, the programme provides them with technical training and life skills.
H&M proposes a dividend as sales profit rises.
The H&M group’s net sales in local currencies grew by 13% in the first nine months of this year compared to the same time last year. The group’s net sales were 142,154 million Swedish krona when converted into SEK. The H&M group’s net sales in local currencies grew by 14% in the third quarter, while net sales in SEK increased to 55,585 million Swedish krona.
In the third quarter, online sales grew by 22% in local currencies and 17% in SEK, while retail sales began to rebound as limitations in several regions were relaxed, according to the firm. The quarter’s gross profit grew by 19% to 29,559 million Swedish krona, resulting in a gross margin of 53.2%. After accounting for financial factors, profit climbed by 158 percent to 6,093 million Swedish krona. The board of directors also proposed paying a cash dividend of 6.50 Swedish krona per share in November 2021, based on significantly improved profitability, a strong financial position with financial net cash of 24,874 million Swedish krona, more stable market conditions, and a positive outlook, according to the company.
