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  • Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016

    Daniel Silverstain, an Israeli designer based in New York City exploring textiles and natural forms in an era of hi-technology and industrialism, expanded on his premise of multi-functionality. His designer apparels prominently focuses on the future which is very apparent in her creations.  Daniel’s creations aim for innovation, essentiality and futurism.

    A silver puffer and denim coat, for example, featured removable denim sleeves, while a jacquard top had an adjustable hem — wear it as a micro-mini dress or a tunic. Still in its infancy, the two-year-old label’s future depends upon developing his relaxed utilitarian aesthetic beyond adjustable garments.

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Daniel Silverstain Pre-Fall 2016 : Denimsandjeans.com

  • Labor Crisis In China Hits At Chinese Denim Market ,Makes It Less Attractive Globally

    Labor Crisis In China Hits At Chinese Denim Market ,Makes It Less Attractive Globally

    China has been ruling the manufacturing industry for the last more than 2 decades on the basis of its economies of efficiency, lower labor costs and huge supply of manpower and of course right policies of the govt. However, much of this is likely to change in the coming future as demographic change take place in China . A recent WSJ report shows how the demographic dividend might turn into a drag on the economy and actually make it difficult for many international companies to remain cost effective in their productions.

    Looking at the history of Chinese Denim Market ,Thirty years ago , denim giant Levi Strauss & Co. began producing its iconic jeans in China , eager to tap a evidently endless lot of workers willing to work for few cents an hour which now apparently is starting to vanish. Believing on the economic statistics and market research , over the coming decades , a labor crisis like situation may evolve which will force Levi and other global brands to reconsider their operation in China or even lead to a situation of pack and leave.

    China Cheap Labor |Denimsandjeans.com

    Recent developments in the Chinese labor market apparently pointing towards a much bigger crisis for which proactive measures needed to be taken and that too within reasonable time frame. The report mentions about  manufacturing units have already started using alternatives and the recent example is an apparel factory in Zhongshan , where lasers are replacing dozens of workers who scrub Levi’s blue jeans with sandpaper to give them the worn look that American consumers find stylish. New Digital printers are being introduced to make intricate patterns on jeans , earlier the workers used to do the same with a mesh screen.

    China is also trying its bit to ensure the adequate supply of workforce for the future and therefore announced the abolishment of its one of the old policy which restrict most couples to one child. However , it won’t be able to change much as very few Chinese prefer to have more than one child.

    China Cheap Labor |Denimsandjeans.com

    The end of very cheap labor in China is giving a push to many advances in technology resulting of which it will put more emphasis on capital intensive rather than labor intensive techniques of manufacturing but this will make China apparently less central to global manufacturing. But changing consumer tastes—enabled by the same technological change—are diminishing China’s role too.Logistics, taxes and marketing may become more expensive compared to labor costs which could make China less attractive.

    Levis began production overseas in Hong Kong in 1966 and later on expanded its production also in Mexico ,Europe and Asia. During the early 1980s, demand for jeans declined, and the San Francisco company laid off a third of its global workforce, according to a Harvard Business School study, and moved more aggressively overseas to cut costs.

    In 1986, Levi started to shift its production to China. China’s rise to the world’s No. 2 economy relied on a huge increase in the country’s working-age population, which expanded by 380 million people between 1980 and 2015. In one of history’s greatest migrations, hundreds of millions of rural Chinese headed for cities for manufacturing jobs that were a step up from peasant labor, even though the work paid poorly by global standards.

    But China’s working-age population recently peaked, and its so-called demographic dividend has started to turn into a demographic drag. By 2050, the working-age population will decline by 212 million, estimates the United Nations—roughly as many people as live in Brazil, the world’s fifth most-populous nation.

    China Cheap Labor |Denimsandjeans.com

    Wages and benefits have already been rising in double-digit percentages for the past decade as workers can command higher rates. Although wage growth may ease this year because of the economic slowdown, the pressure is bound to increase in coming decades as the number of workers plunges.Adding to the shortage, many factory workers will be drawn back to their hometowns to take care of the growing ranks of Chinese older than 60, whose share of the population is forecast to double by 2050 from 2015, to 36.5%. Already, China’s rising labor costs—now $14.60 an hour on China’s coast, adjusted for productivity, compared with $22.68 an hour in the U.S., according to the Boston Consulting Group—have diminished China’s competitiveness. Adding energy costs, China is now a more expensive place to manufacture than Indonesia, Thailand, Mexico and India .

    None of this means brands like Levi is going to abruptly pull up stakes. Levi still lists about 200 Chinese factories where it does business, five times as many as any other country. Levi is adapting its laser technology so it can etch different patterns to create the right wash look , avoiding usage of too many workers.  Levis is however, using this and many other techniques to bring down its costs . These also include reducing the number of fabrics used in a line and cutting the number of suppliers. It is said to have reduced number of fabrics by 40% in last 3 years and number of suppliers by 50%. But automation is the key which China is going to target. It is already expected to be the largest automation market in the coming years.

    China’s loss is becoming gain for many countries including Mexico, Bangladesh, Vietnam and others where the Chinese cake is now spreading out. Factories in Mexico seem to be upgrading productions to take the advantage of new situation and are modernizing and investing.

     

    Still , we need to wait and see how the Chinese govt. aims to handle the demographic changes. However, its unlikely that sectors like apparel will remain lucrative for long as the govt. focuses on hi-tech sectors to get better growth with existing population.

  • H&M Green And Conscious Exclusive collection

    H&M Green And Conscious Exclusive collection

    The Eco Sustainability is the need of hour which has been well understood by the Denim Industry. Consequently , everyday new efforts are being made to ensure the sustainability and the very recent development is that the Swedish clothing company ,H&M, is moving into sustainable fashion . This Retail powerhouse H&M has taken this very innovative initiative on a much larger scale than expected .

    Eco Sustainability has been a focus for H&M for some time now. A few years back H&M started the initiative to recycle used garments .The company had rolled out a global garment recycling program in which anyone can donate their clothing and in return of that the company will give a token discount of 15% in a form of voucher which can be used by the donor on the next purchase. To collect the cloths, the bins are placed near the cash registers to prevent any ambiguity. Stores accept any clothing irrespective of brands.

    H&M has been collecting more than fourteen thousand tons of clothing since 2013. Once the cloths are collected , they are sent for further processing and classifications. Clothing which found to be very much worn are reused as cleaning cloths and otherwise. Sometimes they are also recycled into raw materials for new products. Those clothing which can be possibly worn again are sold at second hand stores. New collections are being designed with these old clothes .

    Sixteen new denim styles for men, women and children made from recycled cotton collected in H&M’s Garment Collecting initiative were recently introduced at stores. The items include jeans, jackets, joggers, zip-up hoodies, joggers and jumpsuits.

    H&M Conscious Exclusive collection

    After collaborating with the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, located in the Palais du Louvre in Paris,the chain is set to celebrate the new H&M Conscious Exclusive collection.The new H&M Conscious Exclusive Collection features organic materials,recycled wool, Tencel, and recycled sequins.The whole collection is dreamy and showcases gorgeous prints, elegant dresses and versatile separates. The natural color palette ties perfectly with the environmental theme of the range.Some of its apparel is created from recycled worn clothes – many coming through its collection of customers’ unwanted garments. For its Close The Loop collection, recycled fibers from shredded unwanted clothes are blended with organic yarns to produce durable denim.Continuing the sustainability is fashionable theme, H&M have created sustainable glamour via their Ambassador, Actress Olivia Wilde who is known for her efforts for a sustainable environment.

    H&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.com

    H&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.com

    H&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.com

    H&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.com

    H&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.com

    H&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.com

    H&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.com

    H&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.comH&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.comH&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.com

    H&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.com

    H&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.comH&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.com

    H&M Conscious Collection | Denimsandjeans.com

    The range shall be launched at Musée des Arts Décoratifs located in the Palais du Louvre in Paris  on  Thursday 7th April to coincide with the opening of the hotly anticipated exhibition, Fashion forward.

  • Kuon Spring/Summer 2016 Lookbook The Japanese label unveils its very first collection

    Kuon Spring/Summer 2016 Lookbook The Japanese label unveils its very first collection

    KUON means “eternity”,  “remote past or future”, and “permanence”. While appreciating the history and culture of vintage clothes or textiles, KUON always seeks for permanent, simple, authentic value, not bound by traditional values.KUON challenges the existing traditional notion on vintage clothes and revitalizes it with new value. KUON changes and re-invents the notion of vintage clothes.

    Shinichiro Ishibashi is the designer and creator of Kuon brand from Japan. After serving his apprenticeship at an established tailor in Marunouchi area, Tokyo prefecture, he worked as pattern maker for a regular manufacturer at Paris Collection.  In 2014 he became self-employed and started to design for several manufacturers on freelance basis. As from 2016 S/S, he became designer of KUON

    KUON , according to him, addresses social agenda via fashion business.

    “We believe that fashion possesses power to make people excited. KUON challenges the existing mass-production and consumption approach, instead we propose products and lifestyle where “stylish” and “socially good” can go together. KUON products bridges between people and society. “

    Most of the BORO fabric KUON uses is anywhere from 50 to 150 years old. Fabric which is old and about to be thrown away, is used after it has been properly repaired. We can say this is the ultimate in eco-friendliness without the killing of any animals, and it is also easy on the environment. The people who repair the BORO are mothers who live in the Tohoku region, who suffered from the devastating earthquake that occured in Japan four and a half years ago. KUON cherishes the concept of making “stylish” clothing as a fashion statement.

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    BORO Jacket.This Jacket will be released in February 2016.

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    These short pants are actually the most labor intensive product that  KUON produced Kuon used BORO from about 100 years ago on one on the sides and, for the opposite side, They also used a plain old fabric that they had SASHIKO in Otsushi town. It took about 80 hours in total!

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    This may be a mountain of treasures for kuon, and yet to many other people it may only be a load of garbage. But when it turns into actual clothes, it becomes so beautiful that many people are moved by it. This is why BORO is so interesting, and why we are so fascinated by it.

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    Undoing the stitching of a kimono, washing it, and drying it. This is a very important process for KUON, and it is the hardest one. If the kimono has cotton inside, this really becomes a time-consuming job!

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    KUON Pocket Tee

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    Reverse side is  the essence of KUON.

    Traditional Japanese fabric has a width of only about 30cm, so when it is used to make clothing, there will always be several joints.Because you can see where the pieces come together, it is interesting to wear inside out as well.

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    This is called a ASANOHA by the traditional pattern of the sashiko.

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    kuon spring summer 16 denimsandjeans.com

    Here are some answers from Mr Shinichiro regarding his brand Kuon. He does not know English and has replied in Japanese. We are publishing the same with hope to convert in English with suitable translation soon !

     

    1. What is the meaning of Kuon and why did you chose it.

    KUONは日本語で「永遠」「遠い過去と未来」を意味する「久遠」という言葉が元になっています。

    襤褸（BORO）は今から150-50年前の生地です。私たちは襤褸に限らず古いけれど素晴らしい世界中の生地を現代に甦らせ未来につなげることをテーマのひとつにしています。

    2. Your collection is supposed to be made of Boro fabrics 50-150 years old. How is that done. Pl explain to us. Does it mean no two garments are same?

    襤褸は日本中から探し集めています。それらを一度すべて解体し私たちのコレクションのデザインに落とし込みます。

    例えばジャケットで考えると、デザインは同じですが襤褸は一点物なので同じデザインのジャケットでもまったく同じ物は世界にひとつしかありません。

    3.How do you think Kuon can achieve a social purpose while making a fashion statement

    私たちは20世紀型の大量生産、大量消費に疑問を持っています。

    もちろんそれによってファッションがここまで進化したことはとても素晴らしいことだと思います。

    しかし21世紀に入って世界中の人々の価値観が大きく変化し始めています。

    新しいだけの物は次の新しい物が発表されれば古くなり価値を失います。

    しかし美しい物はいつまでも美しいのです。

    夕陽はいつ見ても美しいように襤褸にはいつまでも人を惹きつける美しさがあると思います。

    KUONはファッションを通じて新しい価値観の提案をしたいと考えます。

    またKUONで使用する襤褸はそのままでは使えない状態の物を多くあります。

    2011年3月に日本の東北地方に大きな被害をもたらした地震と津波で被災した岩手県大槌町のお母さんたちに襤褸の補修をお願いしています。

    このプロジェクトは単なる寄付ではありません。彼女たちは僕たちの大事なパートナーでKUONが大きくなるほどに彼女たちの仕事が継続かつ充実します。

    ファッションには人を元気にワクワクさせる力があると私たちは信じています。

    150年かけて熟成された生地を現代の人が補修をして甦らせそれを新しいファッションにして未来につなげる。

    こんなに興奮することはありません。

    4. How will you ensure supply of old Boro fabrics when your brand expands

    企業秘密の部分もありますが…

    KUONには日本を代表する古美術の専門家が何人もバックアップをしてくれています。

    私たちの元には日本中から貴重な襤褸がたくさん集まってきます。

    それでも襤褸は限られた資源ですので無尽蔵にあるわけではないので大切に扱っています。

    同じ襤褸を作ろうとしたら50年後になってしまうわけですから！

    日本でも近年投資目的で襤褸の価格が高騰しています。

    僕たちはそういう人たちからは買いません。

    なぜならそうすることで襤褸が単なる一過性のトレンドで終わってしまい、

    私たちの思い描くファッションの理想像とは違ってしまうからです。

    5. Boro fabrics are normally supposed to be about 30 cm wide. Does it make difficult to use these fabrics ?

    よくご存知ですね。

    もともと欧米から洋装が入ってくるまで日本人は着物を着てました。

    着物の生地幅は36cmくらいです。襤褸は両端が破けたりして使えるのは30cmくらいになります。

    それらをつなぎ合わせて仕立てます。しかも襤褸は大きさもそれぞれ異なります。

    その作業は今の工場にとっては難しく断れれますので私たちが予め処理をしてから工場に依頼します。

    このために通常の洋服作りの工程の倍以上の時間と労力が掛かると思います。

    6. When will your collection be available online ?

    来年の2月頃にオンラインストアもオープンできるように準備中です。

  • Denim Debuts at Fashion Institute of Technology Museum as Fashion’s Frontier

    Denim Debuts at Fashion Institute of Technology Museum as Fashion’s Frontier

    Today the denim is one of the world’s most beloved and frequently worn fabrics. It is speculated that on any given day, more than half the world’s population is wearing jeans. Taking into account all these facts ,December 2015 will witness the debut of Denim with an idea of Fashion’s Frontier . The idea of Fashion’s Frontier came from Emma McClendon , the assistant curator of costume at the Museum at FIT NY and the organizer of the exhibition . Denim which has been dominating the wardrobe leading to make it as  the prime locus of the Museum at FTI’s latest exhibition.

    “Denim: Fashion’s Frontier” not only examines the 175 year history of denim as well as the exhibition features more than 70 objects from the museum’s permanent collection which have never been showcased yet. Newly acquired pieces from designers like Sacai,Chloe and Dries Van Noten along with the various workwear pieces dating back to 1840s as well as  more recent high fashion items will be showcased in this exhibit. In addition to the history of jeans, Denim examines a variety of denim garments—from work wear to haute couture—in order to shed new light on how a particular style of woven cotton has come to dominate the clothing industry and the way people dress around the globe.

    The exhibition also takes a look at the 1960s hippies’ use of denim — embroidered and patched denim, bellbottom jeans — as well as the advent of “designer” jeans as examplified by Calvin Klein Jeans and their controversial commercials back in the 1980s.

    Denim: Fashion’s Frontier” will run through May 7, 2016.

    Comme de Garçons (Junya Watanabe) Dress, repurposed denim, spring 2002. (Photo: Courtesy of the Museum at FIT)

    Men’s work pants, denim and brushed cotton, circa 1840, USA, museum purchase, P86.64.3

    Gianfranco Ferré, suit, denim-look silk, spring 1999, Italy, gift of Gianfranco Ferré S.p.A., 99.83.6Levi Strauss & Co. Embroidered Denim Jeans, circa 1969. (Photo: Courtesy of the Museum at FIT)EDUN, dress, white and black denim, 2007, USA, gift of EDUN, 2010.7.1Claire McCardell, “Pop Over” dress, denim, 1942, USA, gift of Bessie Susteric for the McCardell Show, 72.54.1Jumpsuit, denim, 1942-45, USA, gift of David Toser, 2007.63.7Raphael, leisure suit, denim, circa 1973, Italy, gift of Chip Tolbert, 85.161.8

    About

    The Museum at FIT, accredited by the American Alliance of Museums, is one of a select group of specialized fashion museums, including the Muse de la Mode, the Mode Museum, and the Museo de la Moda. For the 100,000 people who visit The Museum at FIT each year works to create exhibitions, programs, and publications that are both entertaining and educational. The mission of the Museum is to advance knowledge of fashion through exhibitions, programs and publications. Founded in 1969, the Museum was installed in the current building in 1974, and exhibitions began to be presented in 1975. There are three galleries in the museum. The lower level gallery is devoted to special exhibitions, such as the recent Elegance in an Age of Crisis: Fashions of the 1930s and Dance and Fashion. The Fashion and Textile History Gallery, on the main floor, which provides on-going historical context, presents a rotating selection of approximately 200 historically and artistically significant objects from the museums permanent collection. Every six months, the exhibition in the gallery is completely changed, although it always covers 250 years of fashion history.

    Address:

    Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
    Seventh Avenue at 27 Street
    New York City 10001-5992

  • G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star by Marc Newson brings a variety of collections primarily featuring  Euro/Japanese streetwear , alongside new styles and the Japanese denims the line is known for. This SS16 collection saw the comeback of The classic Newson Coach jacket –, which was  known for its unusual architectural construction and comes in a variety of constructions and fabrics. The premium capsule collection features a new mini-range of  traditional 5-pocket jeans, the 5-Pocket Denim Slim. With their distinct boxy rear pockets, the 5-pockets tell color stories in a variety of colors  – water blue, camel, and white – all fully tonal and fully denim. There is a also reversible nylon version with leather piped seams, a clean version in Newson’s 7 Day Calvary Twill ,as well as a version in new crinkle-washed Guard .

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

     

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

    G-Star RAW by Marc Newson Spring Summer 2016 Collection

     

  • ITMA 2015 – Sustainable Innovations

    ITMA 2015 – Sustainable Innovations

    ITMA is the world’s largest textile and garment machinery exhibition ,which is held every four years in a different country and has been always a focal point for a large number of highly qualified international visitors and top decision makers. Held in Milan this year after a 20 year gap, the show was welcomed not only by the city but by the industry as well.

    In the last few years there has been an increased , sustained and market pushed focus on sustainable technologies which could help in saving of energy, chemicals, water and other resources. In this article, we bring out information on some of the companies who showcased their sustainable technologies and products.

    Jeanologia , Spain

    Jeanologia presented a complete combination of machines which can enable the jeans manufacturer, as the company claims, to have ZERO contamination. The process involves usage of different machineries from the company to eliminate different environment harming steps. It involves-

    • Combination of  three main technologies – laser, wet and dry ozone G2, e-Flow nano bubbles – to reduce use of water and chemicals by 90% and energy by 50%.
    • Doing away with the usage of pumice stone , manual scraping and potassium permanganate by usage of advanced features of  laser which can be attached to existing laser machines.
    • The complete system to create a high level of eco-sustainability bringing ZERO contamination benefits to the producers.

    ITMA MILAN 2015 : Denimsandjeans.com

    The company calculates EIM – Environmental Impact Measure to arrive show how usage of different processes can make an impact on sustainable production.

    IMG_8988

    IMG_8989

    IMG_8996

    Tonello , Italy :  NoStone® And Water Brush

    In a collaboration with Levi Strauss & Co. ,Tonello announced the latest award winning technology – the NoStone®.  The new process is designed to overcome economic, mechanical and environmental limitations of existing stone-wash processes. The thrust of the innovation is to eliminate the use of pumice stone ,replacing it with a stainless –steel abraders ,attached to the washing machine. The process is entirely mechanical and not chemical in nature  and the company claims the following advantages of the process.

    The Advantages of NoStone are as under :

    • Eliminates usage of pumice stones
    • The effect is similar to that of of stone-wash
    • All logistics, transport, mining and storing activities related to stones can be done away with
    • Doing away with the costly cleaning and maintenance operations
    • No need to dispose the sludge, stones and to purify waste water.

    ITMA MILAN 2015 : Denimsandjeans.com

    ITMA MILAN 2015 : Denimsandjeans.com

    Water Brush By Tonello

    The second denim finishing technology announced by Tonello is the WATER BRUSH. The water brush helps whitening and abrasion process for jeans as it uses jets of water to bring out the abraded look on the jeans.   Unlike permanganate and manual brushing , which cause irritation and also harmful for the eyes ,skin as well as for the respiratory system , this Water Brush from Tonello is claimed to be totally ecological as it runs on water but consumes none. The water brush requires only one operator for its operation while the Permanganate and manual brushing needs considerable labour .

    In essence, the technology of Water Brush  consists of:

    • A robot that whitens and abrades the garment by spraying water under high pressure;

    • A central column to alternate two mannequins, one in the loading/unloading position and the other in the working position;

    • A tank for collecting the water, with a filtration and recirculation system.

    The system offers much reduced environmental impact and no health risk for the end user as the company claims.

    Officiana+39, Italy

    The company brings out RECYCROM – the dye made with 100% recycled textile powder. Basically the process involves recycling used clothing material into colored powder and dyes . These dyes can then be used for dyeing various textile items with eco-sustainable inputs and not environment harming chemical dyes.

    ITMA MILAN 2015 : Denimsandjeans.com

    ITMA MILAN 2015 : Denimsandjeans.com

    ITMA MILAN 2015 : Denimsandjeans.com

    ITMA MILAN 2015 : Denimsandjeans.com

  • VF Grows In Activewear | Financials 2015

    VF Grows In Activewear | Financials 2015

    Image result for vfVF Corporation, with well known brands in its stable like The North Face®, Vans®, Timberland®, Wrangler®, Lee® and Nautica® , is a global leader in the design, manufacture, marketing and distribution of branded lifestyle apparel, footwear and accessories. The company’s highly diversified portfolio of 30 powerful brands spans numerous geographies, product categories, consumer demographics and sales channels. Denim and jeanswear is one of the key segment where VF brands have a powerful presence . A study of VF’s financials gives an idea of the direction company is taking and some idea on how consumers are reacting to various segment offerings.

     

    In this report we have done the detailed analysis as well as comparative analysis for the 3rd Quarter 2015 and a comparative analysis for the same period last year  besides a summary on the 9 months results of this year.

    1. Revenue Segmentation for 3rd quarter of 2014 & 2015  (in millions)

    Particulars

    Amount ($)

    (2014)

    %

    (2014)

    Amount ($)

    (2015)

    %
    (2015)

    Outdoor & Action Sports

    2180.88

    61.95 %

    2296.55

    63.57%

    Jeanswear

    750.45

    21.32%

    747.87

    20.57%

    Image wear

    292.53

    8.31%

    291.54

    8.07%

    Sportswear

    163.44

    4.64%

    161.70

    4.48%

    Contemporary Brands

    99.38

    2.82%

    83.19

    2.3%

    Other

    33.77

    0.96%

    31.97

    0.88%

    Total

    3520.45

    100%

    3612.82

    100%

    In 3rd Quarter 2015, VF Corporation’s total revenue was $3612.83 million, out of which Jeanswear was $747.87 million which  is a 20.57%  share of total revenue. The share of jeanswear has fallen marginally while Outdoor & Action Sports has taken a big jump of about 2%  in sales. This is not surprising as Activewear is the current flavor of the consumers and VF, like many other brands, are trying to are struggling to keep their denim sales to the  same levels. The increase of about $100 million in VF sales can be mainly attributed to the Outdoor and Action Sports segment  .

    image

     

    Revenue Share 3rd quarter 2015 VF Corporation|Denimsandjeans 

    If we look at the total sales in 9 months for VF , we will find that only Outdoor & Action Sports is the segment which has a positive growth while all other segments are experiencing a sustained fall in turnover. The increase of sales this year of about $260 million can be wholly attributed to OUTDOOR segment. This clearly shows how important this segment is getting to be for VF. And not only VF, it is true for many other brands who have a diversified portfolio.

      3. Comparative Sales Analysis for first nine months for 2015 and 2014 (In millions)

    Particulars

    Sales Amount 2014 ($)

    %

    ( 2014)

    Sales Amount 2015 ($)

    %

    ( 2015 )

    Outdoor & Action Sports

    5034.67

    57.85%

    5299.78

    59.12%

    Jeanswear

    2046.61

    23.52%

    2055.73

    22.93%

    Image wear

    805.73

    9.26%

    823.22

    9.18%

    Sportswear

    435.05

    5.00%

    439.55

    4.90%

    Contemporary Brands

    293.74

    3.38%

    257.61

    2.87%

    Other

    87.50

    1.01%

    88.10

    0.98%

    Total

    8703.30

    100%

    8963.99

    100%

    For the first nine month of 2014, the sales figure was $8703.30 million while for the same period in 2015, the sales increased by about 3% amounting $8963.99 million. The major part of this increase is contributed by Outdoor and Action Sports and a small contribution by Contemporary Brands. Jeanswear is on a shrinking mode as it reduces marginally trying to keep the share of 2014.

    Comparative Sales Analyis for 2014 &2015 VF Corporation|Denimsandjeans

     

    4. Share of different segment in the total profit in 3rd Quarter in 2015 & 2014

    Particulars

    Amount ($)

    (2014)

    %

    (2014)

    Amount ($)
    (2015)

    %

    (2015)

    Outdoor & Action Sports

    475.44

    67.50%

    487.93

    68.48%

    Jeanswear

    157.00

    22.29%

    157.00

    22.26%

    Image wear

    42.86

    6.08%

    41.83

    5.87%

    Sportswear

    22.98

    3.26%

    23.19

    3.26%

    Contemporary Brands

    4.87

    0.69%

    0.59

    0.08%

    Other

    1.19

    0.17%

    0.35

    0.05%

    Total

    704.34

    100%

    712.50

    100%

    The story is not much different when we consider the contribution of different segments to the profit margin. Though the absolute contribution of the Outdoor segment was expected to be the highest, the % share also increased in this case while all other segments reported reduced profits . Jeanswear’s contribution to the profitability was almost same though a bit reduced.

    On the whole, VF is increasingly becoming a corporation getting its maximum turnover and profits from Activewear segment and looks increasingly focused in this area as more and more energies of the organization get diverted to this high return segment.

     

    image

     

    Share in Profit for 3rd Qaurter 2015 VF Corporation|Denimsandjeans

  • J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    The main message that one gets from J Brand SS16 lookbook is that LINEN IS IN . “Linen is a huge message for us,” said Bruno –Head of Design- at J Brand’s spring presentation. “It’s not a very stable yarn but the technology has changed so you can use it to do denim.”
    J Brand seeks to tackle the hot summer with cool indigo dyed and plain white linens in chambrays and very light weights. Skinny jeans, baby flares, some sexy briefs , bandeaux tops , indigo gowns etc are all part of the season’s collection.

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    J Brand Spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

  • Levi`s And Pendleton

    Levi`s And Pendleton

    Levi's Work wear by Pendleton : Denimsandjeans.com

    Levi’s and Pendleton – two iconic brands come up for another colloboration to  create a new collection of winter staples  for a second time. Premium Levi’s® denim and Pendleton® Wool use an exclusive print inspired by  Native American designs and some deep indigos. The collection is entirely made in USA and pays tribute to workwear history of both companies. The collection includes a  Levi’s trucker jacket and traditional work shirt lined with Pendleton’s classic Native American fabrics, done in a rich indigo palette, as well as a signature Pendleton blanket, lined in Levi’s denim.

    LEVIS® X PENDLETON® TRUCKER JACKET :

    This classic trucker is lined with Pendleton® wool in a black, navy and gray design through the torso.

    MATERIALS & FEATURES :

    100% Cotton
    Heavyweight Denim
    Torso lined with Pendleton® wool

    Levi's Work wear by Pendleton : Denimsandjeans.com

    Levi's Work wear by Pendleton : Denimsandjeans.com

    LEVIS® X PENDLETON® WOOL WORKSHIRT :

    This standard work shirt features an indigo wool fabrication with a patterned lining across the shoulders.This collaboration uses a special year-round weave, with yokes lined in the collaboration’s unique patterned wool. The work shirts feature a blanket-lined upper panel and are crafted from a wool-denim blend unique to this collaboration.

    MATERIALS & FEATURES :

    100% Wool
    Midweight Plain Weave Wool
    Soft drape that will get better with age
    Chest pocket
    Patterned wool lining through shoulders

    Levi's Work wear by Pendleton : Denimsandjeans.com

    Levi's Work wear by Pendleton : Denimsandjeans.com

    LEVIS® X PENDLETON® WOOL BLANKET :

    Exclusive collaboration print inspired by Native American designs, but scaled up to create a unique take on a classic Pendleton® style. This blanket is made from 22oz. wool in a standard queen size (60×80 in.). The limited-edition blankets feature a rugged denim backing and an exclusive Pendleton pattern.

    MATERIALS & FEATURES :

    100% Wool
    22oz. Wool
    Print inspired by Native American designs but scaled up to create a unique take on a classic Pendleton® style

    Levi's Work wear by Pendleton : Denimsandjeans.com

     

  • Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    In this age of body being the booty,  Siwy jeans  brings out cheeky spring offerings with some very sexy shorts and some super stretch body hugging jeans in ligher indigos for Spring 2016. Founded in New York in 2005 and currently based in Los Angeles, Siwy’s focus has always been top quality, perfectly finished jeans and shorts that look sexy on  womenwithout sacrificing comfort and a soft feel and often worn by celebrities like Kate Moss, Selma Blair, Megan Fox, Nicole Richie and Sienna Miller and others.
    The images from SS16 lookbook speak for themselves !

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

    Siwy Denim spring Summer 2016 Lookbook

  • Munich Fabric Start – Blue Zone

    Munich Fabric Start – Blue Zone

    Munich Fabric start happened in September and we are over a month delayed in bringing out a report on the same. However I believe that its always better to be  late than never. Hope the readers will forgive the delay  !

    Here is a synopsis from the  show.

    Emerging trends 

    • Green Casts
    • Darker Indigos still strong
    • Stretches getting more and more elastic and great focus on recoveries.
    • Knit denims still strong. But maybe a couple of seasons down the line may slow down.
    • Companies playing around with a mix of multiple fibers to get unique hand feels
    • Double , triple indigo dyeings and coatings

    We were able to cover  a few companies and here are the details from them (in alphabetical order of company name)

    Advance Denim – China

    • Selvedge Denim
    • Green Denims – organic cotton, recycled denim , recycled polyster etc.
    • Functional denims – Theromolite, Coolmax, Tough Max and Cordura
    • Power stretches : 50-80%

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans 

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Calik – Turkey

    • Super stretches for men – with authentic rigid weaves but stretchability going upto 80%
    • Oxygene – quick wash eco friendly denims. Washing time goes down from 60 minutes to 15 minutes
    • Futured –
    • Wool denims

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Candiani – Italy

    • Athletic Denims with natural ring effect
    • Stripey effects with yarn
    • Old 501 salt and pepper effects with tencel
    • Swenim : short for sweet denims for women with melange wefts and super soft feminine effects . Using fine count yarns.
    • Selvedge denims with stretch

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Diamond Denim – Pakistan

    • Double counts in warp with supima cotton for that extra sheen
    • Pseudo dobby weaves to give twill effects in warp
    • Lyocell denim with ring spun polyester

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    ITV – Italy

    • Emboss prints
    • Super soft denims in 100% cotton with special spun yarns and finishing processes.
    • Focus on heavier weights in 100% cotton
    • Specially dyed fabrics which enables indigo removal without chemical . Paolo. This is to comply with European regulations for all laundries to stop using chlorine and permaganate by 2020
    • Reverse prints

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans 

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

     Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Kassim – Pakistan

    • Lot of Jacquards – with indigo dyed warps and wefts
    • Rope dyeing fine counts upto 60s for light weight shirtings
    • Upto 90% stretch with less than 4% growth
    • Bromo Indigo coated
    • French Linen+Tencel +Indigo coatings

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    KG Denim – India

    • Focusing on Satin Stretch
    • Sulphur Greys
    • Black turned greys
    • Dual core fabric for men’s for softness and recovery
    • Reverse printings

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    M & J – Bangladesh

    • Focus on eco washes
    • Jeans washed with 0.7 litres of water at room temperature and in 10 minutes.
    • Almost zero chemicals used for much of their collection
    • Ozone also used for only about 5 minutes in conjunction with new technology so that the look is authentic .

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Naveena Denim – Pakistan

    • Using softest fibers to the strongest fibers.
    • Using heather yarn in the warp – helps in avoiding dyeing and enables warp any color of pantone . Part of their sustainable initiative.
    • Miyabi fibers by Mitsubishi – acrylic based fiber – for the very soft hand feel.
    • Performance fabrics with Coolmax, Thermolite, Toughmax etc.
    • Toughest fiber used Dyneema – for the bikers in 14oz and other weights.

     

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

     Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

     Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Raymond UCO – India

    • Color denims with smaller quantities
    • Neppy and hairy denims
    • Natural indigo and hemp
    • Jacquard weaves

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

     Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

     Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

     

    Vicunha – Brazil

    • Athletic denims using knit looks
    • T400 dual fx
    • Color play

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    W Denim – Turkey

    • Sustainable fiber from corn
    • Rayon knits
    • Shape retention super stretches
    • Elegance blue – pure blue indigos

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

     Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

     Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

     

    And here are some more looks from the show.

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans  

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans  

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans

    Munich Fabric Start 2015 Trends | Denimsandjeans