The Greensboro, N.C.-based firm established a new denim supply chain alliance with Arvind Limited and Cone Denim on Wednesday, with the goal of improving vital data used in the Higg Material Sustainability Index (Higg MSI).
Kontoor Brands, a leading global lifestyle apparel company with two of the world’s most iconic consumer brands, Wrangler® and Lee®, has introduced a major supply chain collaboration of denim industry leaders to enhance critical information incorporated into the Higg Material Sustainability Index (MSI), as mentioned above, the apparel sector’s most broadly utilized way to evaluate and examine product environmental impact.
Arvind Limited, India’s premier lifestyle and fashion giant, and Cone Denim, a worldwide leader in denim authenticity and sustainable innovation, will exchange vital data from the denim dyeing process that is presently not considered into the Higg MSI as part of these efforts, according to the business. The purpose is to consolidate value chain sustainability measurements and provide garment firms more visibility throughout product creation and development. By summer 2022, the firms hope to make the improved Higg MSI tool available to all garment brands.
Dhruv Agarwal, Kontoor Brands’ Senior Director of Global Innovation, Sustainability, and Product Development, stated- “Data-driven decisions produce the best outcomes. We believe the Higg MSI is an invaluable tool for assessing the environmental impact of processes and materials utilized in our products. Through this work, our industry will be able to have a more complete picture of denim’s impact, and our product development teams will have better insight into the environmental footprint of our products, empowering us to make more sustainable design choices.â€
The Higg MSI was established a decade ago to assist designers and product makers in making more sustainable material choices and comparing the environmental consequences of various materials, trimmings, and packaging. The technology, which is based on scientific data and metrics, is designed to assess environmental effect throughout the manufacturing process. The Higg MSI assesses five aspects of environmental impact: global warming potential, water pollution, chemistry, water shortage, and fossil fuel depletion.
Despite the fact that the denim industry leads in sustainable innovation, executives have spoken out about the information gaps that exist, cautioning businesses against comparing their outcomes to old data or data from unknown sources. However, establishing a baseline against which to assess the impact of output is the first step toward improving procedures.
The collaboration builds on the firms’ different environmental initiatives.
To improve water conservation, Kontor launched the Indigood Facility Certification in 2021. Textile manufacturing facilities that use 90 percent less freshwater than traditional fabric production, based on 2018 statistics, may be eligible. Arvind’s Naroda factory was the first to receive the certification.
Arvind has also partnered with TextileGenesis, a blockchain-based digital transparency platform that allows for the digitalization and traceability of any textile asset, including fiber, yarn, fabric, and garments.
President Steve Maggard of Cone Denim stated the mill has made “significant capital expenditures†in production to create ethical and sustainable goods. It was the first denim mill to use the MSI tool to create unique materials for their whole Spring/Summer 2022 fabric range in 2021. Customers may utilize this step to acquire fabric Life Cycle Assessments and comparative data for further information on particular materials used in Cone’s textiles. It moreover accomplished its first authentication of origin audit with Oritain, a company that specializes in product and supply-chain traceability.
“We are excited to explore and advance tools and resources, like the Higg MSI, that align with our customers’ goals to design and produce sustainable apparelâ€, said the president of Cone Denim Steve Maggard, and also added, “We welcome the opportunity to collaborate with like-minded companies, such as Kontoor, to bring transparency to the supply chain. Cone Denim has made considerable capital investments in our manufacturing focused on creating responsible and sustainable products and look forward to verification of our initiatives’ results.â€
Have you ever been browsing Amazon for apparel and desired you could try anything on before making a purchase? If you reside in Los Angeles, you will be able to do so very soon.
While everyone else is shifting their operations online to manage and expand them, Amazon is doing the exact opposite by creating a physical location. Amazon is launching a new sort of store devoted just to clothes, and it will, of course, be equipped with cutting-edge automated technologies. Will go by the name, Amazon Style, which will be a store that will sell clothing, footwear, and fashion accessories.
“Our first-ever physical apparel store offers a personalized, convenient shopping experience where Amazon’s technology and operations make it easy for customers to find styles they love at great prices,†the company wrote in a blog.
Customers may shop for familiar names while also finding new and rising designers among the store’s hundreds of top brands. Customers may submit goods to a fitting room via the Amazon Shopping app, where they can use a touchscreen to browse more alternatives, rate products, and request more sizes or styles, which are delivered directly to their room in minutes. To help consumers find looks they’ll love, Amazon Style blends Amazon’s passion for fashion with excellent technology and best operations.
WHAT’S IN AMAZON STYLE?
Amazon Style will be the e-commerce giant’s first physical shop, offering apparel, shoes, and accessories for men, women, and children. According to the firm, Amazon style will showcase display products, giving in-store shopping- more looks and less clutter. As per the amazon team, the physical store will feature hundreds of brands hand-picked by fashion designers, as well as input from millions of customers who buy on the company’s website. The first Amazon physical store will open sometime this year in The Americana at Brand in Los Angeles, California.
Amazon, in usual manner, is attempting to leverage technology to make the physical retail experience more seamless and convenient. The actual store will be distinguished by racks with QR codes that consumers can scan with their phones to view available sizes, colors, customer reviews, and product specifications. Then, when you want to try anything on, you just press a button. They’ll get sent to dressing room. Amazon will also send you other goods on its own initiative, similar to suggestions, although you are not required to try them on or wear them. When a fitting room is prepared and packed with your items, the Amazon app will notify you.
Amazon Style will provide shoppers a broader range than other stores without the clutter of racks upon racks of clothing, according to the business, and its enormous distribution network will allow it to refresh its in-store goods on a frequent basis.
Customers do not have to leave their fitting rooms to continue shopping. They can rate items on the tablet to get fresh suggestions in real time, and they may request more designs and sizes to be sent to their fitting room closet in minutes. Amazon Style’s on-site operations, along with modern technology and procedures employed in Amazon fulfilment facilities, enable this quick delivery. Touchscreens in the fitting room will allow you to request more things. If you wish to purchase something, you may do it in-store or save it to your Amazon Shopping app for later purchase. You can also use the app to locate clothes and have them delivered to an Amazon Style shop for in-person fittings.
Personalization is at the heart of Amazon Style. As customers shop, the machine learning algorithms provide personalized, real-time suggestions for them. Amazon Style will propose things particularly for the customers while they tour the shop and scan items that capture their interest. Customers may contribute information like their style, fit, and other preferences to obtain more refined recommendations for an even more personalized experience. Customers can simply browse discounts in store that fit their preferences directly in the Amazon Shopping app, making shopping for bargains even more customized and simple.
Personal style used to be pricey and exclusive, but thanks to Amazon Style’s advanced technology, distinctive store design, and attentive curation, they’ve made it easier than ever for consumers to find goods that make them look and feel fantastic.
GETTING ALONG WITH IN-STORE AND ONLINE SHOPPING
Amazon Style provides the same amazing prices as Amazon.com, as well as Amazon’s large assortment of fashion and the convenience of seeing and trying on things. Here are some of the ways Amazon has made shopping convenient, whether in person or online:
Discover in- store, buy online: Customers may simply locate and buy more styles online in addition to Amazon Style’s large range of goods available for purchase in-store.
Keep shopping after leaving the store: Goods scanned at Amazon Style are kept in the Amazon Shopping app, making it easy to come back and buy later or browse additional items online from the new companies identified in the store.
Shop millions of items online, try on in- store: Customers may shop for clothing on Amazon.com, have it delivered to Amazon Style, and try it on in a fitting room. Customers may return items in store if they aren’t ideal, and Amazon will do the rest.
Great prices: Amazon Style is no exception to the company’s reputation for low costs. The prices in stores will be the same as those on Amazon.com. Customers may also use the Amazon Shopping app to browse offers at stores that match their interests.
THE CHANGE – BY AMAZON
Interestingly, Amazon makes no mention of whether the shop would use “Just Walk Out” technology, which allows you to grab things from the shelf and leave without having to pay for them at a register. Simply put, your Amazon app has been charged. However, Amazon One will be supported by the shop. It’s a technology that allows you to pay for things after confirming your identification with your palm.
Amazon’s clothes shop isn’t the company’s first foray into physical retail. In addition to its two dozen physical Amazon Books sites throughout the country, the business had set to launch and is now open, its first “smart” food store in Woodland Hills in 2020.
Circularity has been discussed by Dame Ellen MacArthur since 2010, although the concept has only lately gained popularity. After retiring from sailing 12 years ago- MacArthur being the first woman to solo around the globe- she founded the Ellen MacArthur Foundation to bring together the worlds of business, education, fashion, agriculture, and beyond to conceive a dramatic transformation to a “circular economy.” A circular economy, in contrast to our existing linear concept of creation, consumption, and disposal, entails reducing waste, keeping items in circulation, and renewing nature.
MacArthur launched the book on the 2nd of December, 2021, at Business of Fashion VOICES. Circular Design for Fashion was created in honor of fashion’s enormous potential to change to a circular economy, as well as its creatives – enthusiastic disruptors who are always looking for new ways to innovate. The book introduces a new design approach and inspires designers to think about how they might help shape a more resilient and successful fashion sector that addresses climate change and biodiversity loss. Investigate the challenges of creating with three concepts in mind: reducing waste and pollution, cycling products and resources, and renewing nature. The book presents an assorted mix of voices, well-known names like Stella McCartney, Gabriela Hearst, and Eileen Fisher, as well as upcoming designers like Bethany Williams and Duran Lantink, upcycling professionals like ADIFF’s Angela Luna and Loulwa Al Saad, regenerative agriculture assets like Fibershed and FarFarm, Gucci and its parent company Kering, and some of the industry’s most successful corporations like Inditex, Fast Retailing, and H&M.
SUBSISTENCE BY CIRCULAR DESIGN
Many firms and designers in the fashion field have begun to take initiatives to remove waste and pollution from their product lifecycles in recent years. Elodie Rousselot, the strategic design manager at Ellen MacArthur Foundation says, “I think we’re witnessing a beautiful moment in the industry, where many are actively looking at how they can change their businesses and the way they design products to be fit for the circular economy.†The goal of circular design is to create goods and services that don’t have a linear life cycle with a beginning, middle, and conclusion. The goal is to create goods that can “be produced to be made again,†as ex- CEO of IDEO, Tim Brown phrased it.
The move to a circular economy (CE) presents designers with a variety of new issues and necessitates particular knowledge, tactics, and methodologies. The CE idea broadens the scope of the design process and encourages the incorporation of new knowledge domains and abilities. Throughout all phases of the design process, substantial engagement with stakeholders and specialists is required for the CE to be implemented successfully in reality. Design firms have responded to the CE by forming dedicated CE research and design workgroups, facilitating information flow, constructing their own circular strategies and techniques, and pursuing long-term client relationships that encourage designers to become involved in the lifecycles of crafted artifacts rather than viewing design projects as one-time events. Many designers have taken the initiative too. Amongst such designers are the six contributors, highlighted by Rousselot in MacArthur’s book, who are at the forefront of the movement towards the circular fashion industry.
ORANGE CUTURE BY ADEBAYO OKE-LAWAL
Adebayo Oke-Lawal creates gender-neutral clothing with a 90 percent indigenous Nigerian supply chain that includes everything from material procurement to dyeing and printing. The designer tries to guarantee that money stays in the community through his Lagos-based label Orange Culture, while also training his suppliers and staff about sustainable manufacturing processes so that they may apply what they’ve learned to other initiatives.
“They’ve also begun encouraging shoppers to return undesired clothing so that it may be turned into new outfits and sold again. It’s more than just a repair service. It’s almost as though the clothing had a new narrative to tell.” Rousselot said, “Orange Culture uses the offcuts from its manufacturing process to form new products or elements such as lining.â€
RAEBURN BY CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN
Whilst pursuing fashion design in London in the early 2000s, Christopher Raeburn began working with excess fabrics and clothes, purchasing unworn military coats from the 1950s for £1 apiece and reworking them into new outfits. Since then, he’s pushed to expand the use of reused materials in mass production with his own British Fashion Award-winning label Raeburn, along with switching ‘Timberland’ to regeneratively cultivated leather as creative director for the footwear company.
“He was one of the first to bring this practice to a commercial scale, in a way that is attractive and different from what you would expect from an ‘eco brand,†Rousselot said.
ICICLE BY YE SHOUZENG AND TAO XIAOMA
Icicle, a Chinese company founded in 1997 by husband-and-wife team Ye Shouzeng and Tao Xiaoma, uses five primary materials – cashmere, linen, wool, silk, and cotton – that is sustainably sourced and lightly treated to preserve the attention on the fibers’ inherent beauty. To maintain transparency and protect the welfare of garment workers, the company does all of its design and manufacture in-house at its own facilities.
Rousselot quotes about the innovative couple- “They are bringing this different perspective to a circular design, which is based on traditional Chinese philosophy and runs counter to the Western idea that we’re born, we die and then that’s itâ€
MARINE SERRE
Aside from her signature crescent moon motif, French designer Marine Serre is recognized for using repurposed materials such as household linens, carpets, and towels in 50% of her designs. Serre’s work, which was awarded the esteemed LVMH prize in 2017 and is distributed by big shops like Selfridges and Browns, demonstrates that waste materials, notwithstanding their nasty reputation, may have a place in the premium fashion industry.
“She’s extremely cutting edge in the way she designs with these textiles,†Rousselot said. “In fashion design, usually what students are taught to do is to define a color palette that will guide their collection and then find the fabrics to match.â€
FIBERSHED
Fibershed is a non-profit organization that assists businesses in gaining access to hyper-local textile supply chains by employing regenerative agricultural techniques that retain carbon in the soil rather than releasing it. Designer Phoebe English recently produced a line of outfits for the COP26 climate conference in conjunction with its regional arm in South East England, for which all fabrics were farmed, dyed, spun, and processed within a 250-kilometer radius of her London studio.
Rousselot quotes- “This approach means you are not growing hectares of cotton, you’re growing different types of crops that naturally thrive in the area such as nettle or hemp.â€
NKWO BY NKWO ONWUKA
Nkwo Onwuka, a British-Nigerian designer, created Dakala, a new African textile that looks like hand-loomed fabric but is manufactured by stripping and putting together discarded denim pieces. She currently instructs indigenous women in Abuja to use their traditional textile crafts abilities to manufacture new garments from the heaps of garment trash transported to Nigeria from western nations, with the goal of “weaving waste into prosperity.”
“She’s also started looking at sourcing cotton locally,†Rousselot explained. “Nigeria doesn’t grow a lot of cottons but unlike in Kyrgyzstan, where it’s a cause of desertification, in Nigeria, it can grow rain-fed so it doesn’t require extra irrigation.â€
CIRCULAR FASHION: THE CURRENT SCENARIO
The circular fashion industry is being embraced by more than just independent or eco-friendly apparel manufacturers. 64 of the world’s largest fashion brands, including Adidas and Inditex, inked a pledge in January 2018 to speed the transition to a circular business model. Adidas, for example, decided to address the issue of materials by gradually implementing a 3-Step Loop Strategy, in which Step 1 is to use recycled materials, Step 2 is to make those recycled materials part of a loop that can be reused, and Step 3 is to bio-fabricate the materials of the future so that when they come out of the loop, they are biodegradable and can be returned to nature without endangering it.
Denim is a wardrobe must for millions of individuals all over the world. The manufacture of a single pair of jeans in traditional way consumes 3,781 liters of water, which is a fact that the majority are unaware of. However, of late, we have seen that Ellen MacArthur foundation and other initiatives in the industry have ensured that the industry moves firmly in the direction of circularity and we hope to see huge changes very soon.
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation had created The Jeans Redesign, a set of recommendations aimed at encouraging the denim industry to embrace the circular economy more effectively. Hundreds of companies have already signed on and committed their support. Among them are Gap, H&M, Wrangler, and a many other well-known brands. In June 2021, the first redesigned jeans utilizing the criteria was finished, proving that circular jeans may be made now.
IMPORTANCE OF CIRCULAR FASHION ON PLANET
“Cradle to Cradle is like good gardening; it is not about “saving†the planet but about learning to thrive on it,†a quote by Michael Braungart says it all. The contemporary industrial infrastructure’s design goal is to provide an appealing product that is inexpensive, complies with rules, performs well enough, and lasts long enough to fulfil market expectations. With a projected worldwide population of nine billion people by 2030, nature will face unprecedented challenges in meeting human demands. The purpose of circular fashion is to guarantee that clothing is manufactured from safe and renewable materials, that innovative business models increase its usage, and that old clothing is reused. We want to see the garment industry progress to a future where every material is securely used and reused, ecosystems are protected, and people have meaningful jobs. This is the circular fashion philosophy, as well as why it is so vital.
Clothes are an outward manifestation of our personality, and while variety is important, we should be more careful of how much we really need.
Greenwashing and the abuse of terminology like “sustainable” have resulted in negative headlines for numerous businesses. In Denmark, such situations also result in hefty fines. Danish Crown (Europe’s largest pig producer) was summoned to court on June 4th, 2021, by a group of green climate activists. Since the fall, the Danish Crown has been waging a campaign to promote “climate-controlled” and “more climate-friendly than you believe” branding on pig products. According to climate activist organizations, the ad is accused of greenwashing a product that should not be called environment-friendly.
The Danish Consumer Ombudsman presented a series of court cases just before the new year as part of a new ‘short guide’ for businesses on how to deal with environmental marketing. He has advised corporations that any promises about sustainability must be backed up by facts from a lifecycle study.
Given the current controversy about the usage and use of life-cycle assessment (s) in the fashion industry, this throws up a potentially big bag of worms, especially for apparel businesses. When making sustainability claims, the Danish Ombudsman believes that health, social, and ethical aspects must be taken into account, and admits that it is “extremely difficult to name a product, etc. sustainable without being deceptive.”
According to the new criteria, organizations must be able to prove their marketing assertions. ‘As a result, the Consumer Ombudsman advises firms to be as precise as possible when stating how a product shines,’ they write. “It is deceptive marketing if a product does not conform to the marketing.†The recommendations give several examples of when “writing favorably about a product’s environmental impact without having necessary proof” may be a breach of Denmark’s Marketing Act.
KEY PRINCIPLES
There are a few overarching elements that the Consumer Ombudsman emphasizes in the new guidance:
As with other marketing statements, environmentally focused ones must be correct as well as both clearly phrased (so as to avoid consumers getting the wrong picture) and not omitting any important information.
When speaking about actual circumstances you must be able to evidence what you say, and your statements must be supported by independent experts.
You must apply the methodology of a full life-cycle analysis as support of general statements about being environmentally friendly.
THE NEED FOR REGULATION: SUSTAINABLE & ECO-FRIENDLY
The environmental and societal effect of the things that customers buy nowadays has a big impact on their shopping decisions. The proliferation of certification labels, some of which are backed by official standards and laws and others that are not, complicates this product purchase choice. Because of this variation in labeling dependability, labeling is no longer straightforward or obvious for customers. Furthermore, many labels are not just misleading, but often purposely dishonest in order to conceal the negative environmental characteristics of a product. Something is fundamentally wrong, and we need to talk about how certification labeling might assist push sustainable purchasing to the next level while also addressing (some of) the reasons for greenwashing.
The Consumer Ombudsman’s starting premise is that when consumers read a generic “eco-friendly” remark about a product, they are likely to think that it has no negative environmental consequences. This, however, is not always the case. Such comments will be deceptive if they are not verified, and the other side of the coin is that the requirements for demonstrating that you are genuinely eco-friendly are rigorous.
It must be in the form of a “real” cradle to grave life-cycle study validated by impartial specialists, not just any proof. It helps if you have permission to use an official label for the product since this allows you to utilize words like “less harmful to the environment,” “more eco-friendly,” and so on.
The Consumer Ombudsman further adds the following four conditions for phrasing the positive impact:
It cannot be marginal in nature.
It cannot be created through a process that harms the environment.
It cannot be weighed down by climate-damaging features, preventing, for example, products from polluting sectors from being marketed as eco-friendly.
It cannot be a common feature of similar products.
There are a few things to keep in mind for firms. First, if a product just meets climate or environmental criteria, this cannot be promoted as a unique characteristic. Second, statements must be updated on a regular basis if, for example, technical advancements or changes in legislation render the statement no longer factual and fair. Special rules may also apply to the marketing of specific items or to certain consumer groups.
SUSTAINIIBILITY AND THE FUTURE
Because it is simple to claim that you are acting sustainably, sustainability is one of the most regularly utilized concepts in greenwashing activities. The Danish Consumer Ombudsman defines sustainability as “growth that meets the requirements of the present without jeopardizing future generations’ ability to satisfy their own needs,” based on the Brundtland study “Our Common Future” from 1987.
But what about green and ethical clothing? Apparel is after all one of the biggest industries which face eco-friendly production issues. Many brands, in fact, have stepped into sustainable and green clothing, but are they truly doing it as well? Citing an example here. At least some organic cotton, recycled polyester, or Tencel is used in each garment in H&M’s Conscious collection. H&M may appear to be environmentally friendly when combined with the brand’s in-store clothes recycling programmes, but these initiatives aren’t representative of the company as a whole. In 2016, Henrik Lampa, H&M’s Development Sustainability Manager, stated that only 0.1 percent of donations to its in-store recycling boxes get recycled into new textiles.
Pact Apparel and Patagonia, both of which have a good track record with organic and recycled materials, choose Fairtrade certification instead of a stronger one like Fairtrade America or Fairtrade International. Unfortunately, in US supermarkets, the labels are more likely to be found on chocolate bars or bananas than on garments. So, when it comes to fashion, GOTS Certified is a wonderful certification to look for because it covers organic content, additional chemicals, and labor throughout the garment’s creation.
It’s not as simple as switching to organic cotton or promising to use less water to make environmentally friendly jeans. “There can never be 100% sustainable apparel,” says Michelle Marsh, creative director at Ética. “However, by approaching denim holistically, we can substantially cut both our consumption and our effect.” Switching to organic cotton, utilizing non-chlorine-based bleaches and bio-based natural indigo, recycling fibers, and applying all of these processes in the production of labels, hangtags, and packaging, in addition to the denim itself, are all examples of this.
“GREEN†EVERYWHERE
Because pictures speak louder than words, the Consumer Ombudsman has also looked at symbolic green communication, such as when one uses pictures, symbols, drawings, colors, or otherwise green slogans, mottos, visions, or the like to demonstrate that you are not a threat to the environment. Using such images gives buyers the sense that they are dealing with a sustainable source, which is false unless you can provide proof to back up that notion. In general, you cannot portray yourself as being greener than you are- this is known as greenwashing.
Because the Consumer Ombudsman investigates cases based on complaints, consumer advocacy from impact organizations may help to increase the number of instances where firms are accused of and probed for greenwashing in the future. The Danish Marketing Practices Act serves as the legal basis for the anti-greenwashing guidelines, with the Consumer Ombudsman interpreting some of the basic provisions in the legislation in a green context. Fines are imposed for violations of the Danish Marketing Practices Act, and the Consumer Ombudsman’s rulings are made public.
Stella McCartney is the first designer to endorse New York’s Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act.
With the new year 2022, comes fresh focus on sustainability from authorities in USA. Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act was proposed on January 7 and which , if passed, would make NY to become the first state in the US to pass a bill, holding the largest fashion labels accountable for their involvement in climate change.
The Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act, sponsored by State Senator Alessandra Biaggi and Assemblywoman Anna R. Kelles, was also backed by a number of sustainable fashion nonprofits including the New Standard Institute, the Natural Resources Defense Council, and the New York City Environmental Justice Alliance, as well as designer Stella McCartney. The law applies to global apparel and footwear companies with revenues of more than $100 million.
WHAT EXACTLY DOES THE BILL SAY?
Prada, Nike, Armani, Gucci, Chanel, and all other global high-end fashion brands with more than $100 million revenues are liable to map out at least half of their supply chain from raw material farming ,through transportation, and to reveal the social and environmental implications along the way. Fair labour pay, greenhouse gas emissions, and water waste and management are all examples of topics that must be made public. Under the Act, fashion firms must set goals in line with the Paris Agreement, which is limiting global warming to 1.5 degrees Celsius over pre-industrial levels – and present a strategy to achieve them.
FASHION SUSTAINIBILITY ACT INTO EXISTENCE
“As a global fashion and business capital of the world, New York State has a moral responsibility to serve as a leader in mitigating the environmental and social impact of the fashion industry†quoted by Senator Biaggi in a press release. She also added, “a groundbreaking piece of legislation that will make New York the global leader†in holding the fashion industry “accountable†ensuring, “labour, human rights, and environmental protections are prioritized.â€
Companies would have 12 months to comply with the mapping rule (18 months for impact declarations), and if found in violation, they might face fines of up to 2% of their annual revenues. The fines would be directed to a new Community Fund run by the Department of Environmental Conservation, which would be used for environmental justice programmes. A list of companies determined to be non-compliant would be published annually by the New York attorney general.
THE CURRENT SCENARIO
Though many brands have become more vocal in admitting their role in climate change and human rights violations, efforts to correct the situation have been left to the companies and a variety of nongovernmental watchdog organizations such as the Fair Labor Association, which focuses on wage issues, and Higg, which focuses on supply chain reporting. They can be rather diverse.
According to the UN Environment Programme, the worldwide fashion industry today accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions, which is more than the aviation and shipping sectors combined, as well as roughly 20% of global wastewater. Every year, the textiles sector produces an estimated 92 million tonnes of trash, which is expected to increase to 134 million tonnes by 2030. This deteriorating trend may mostly be linked to the rise of fast fashion, in which firms make and distribute low-cost, low-quality apparel that buyers discard after only a few wears.
Though a step in right direction, it remains to be seen if the Act can bring some very objective standards to be complied with – rather than giving subjective directions leaving scope for misinterpretations and hence non-compliance. The fashion industry needs the governments large consuming regions of US / Europe and later even China and India. Till the time we have thoughtful intervention by the governments, sustainability and circularity is likely to remain dependent on subjective interpretations preventing its universal application.
Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 50.
COTTON PRODUCTION LIKELY TO GROW OVER 350 LAKH BALES, AS PER INDIAN COTTON FEDERATION
The Indian Cotton Federation (ICF) predicts that India’s cotton production would exceed 350 lakh bales during the cotton season 2021-22 (October to September). According to J.Thulasidharan, President, ICF , the rise in the minimum support price (MSP) has encouraged farmers and helped preserve the area under cotton. It has also encouraged farmers to implement improved crop management methods. Simultaneously, demand for exports was strong as well. At the Federation’s annual meeting, the office-bearers elected new officers, including J. Thulasidharan (President), P. Natraj and Adhitya Krishna Pathy (Vice-Presidents), and Nishant Asher (Secretary).
J. Thulasidharan also emphasised the need of addressing concerns such as fibre quality, correct grading, improved seed, and measures to achieve higher output. He went on to say that the next revolution will only come through increased yield. With the appropriate measures, Indian farmers may achieve a 1,000 kg output, which should be a priority for all stakeholders.
LEE JEANS LAUNCHES THEIR NEW VIRTUAL STORE
Lee Jeans has unveiled its first virtual store, allowing buyers to visit its Europe flagship in Antwerp and learn more about the brand’s ‘For A World That Works’ (FWTW) sustainability initiative. Consumers may browse an interactive three-dimensional retail area, exploring things in a store setting before effortlessly adding purchases to their purchasing basket, in the virtual store. The goal of digital shopping is to offer a real-world experience without the stress that often comes with in-person purchasing. The immersive experience also allows Lee to highlight its FWTW sustainability platform through a series of interactive buttons and movies that highlight innovations and activities geared to lessen the effect on people and the environment.
The virtual store’s navigation has been developed to allow consumers to come in from the street, enter the store, and browse products such as men’s and women’s clothing, as well as the exclusive Lee 101 collection. The virtual store is accessible via the Lee Jeans’ website and social media platforms.
PVH AND ECOVATIVE COLLABORATE ON A SUSTAINABLE FASHION COOPERATIVE
Ecovative has formed an international sustainable fashion cooperative with Bestseller and PVH Corp. Both Bestseller and PVH Corp. will get first access to Ecovative’s mycelium technologies and will collaborate with the company on the development of mycelium materials for goods and consumer applications. Ecovative has been generating mycelium for a variety of partners across the world, and will offer ForagerT Hides, an alternative leather material, in 2021.
Ecovative’s mycelium produces a ready-to-finish product that is free of plastic scrims and petroleum-based coatings. It is totally comprised of bio-based materials. Designers from Bestseller and PVH Corp., as well as Ecovative’s engineers, will collaborate with Fashion for Good Cooperative members to create, build, and test a research and development plan. Together, the cooperative will develop mycelium materials for the consumer market. “Working directly with fashion brands and tanneries, we make beautiful, high-performing and sustainable materials without harming animals or the planet,†said Gavin McIntyre, Ecovative co-founder and chief business officer.
PATAGONIA TO DONATE PROCEEDS FROM BLACK FRIDAY SALES FOR THE PLANET
US-based clothing brand, Patagonia, received an amazing $10 million in Black Friday sales, five above its own expectations, and will donate every penny to help save the environment as pledged. The high-end outdoor apparel and gear retailer revealed the record-breaking haul, stating that its customers’ “enormous passion” for the environment will benefit hundreds of grassroots environmental organizations worldwide. According to corporate spokeswoman Corley Kenna, the idea for the “fundraiser for the world” originated during an internal brainstorming gathering following the U.S. presidential election. Patagonia was looking for a means to raise awareness about the importance of the environment and climate change.
According to a press release, the funds earned via Patagonia’s Black Friday campaign will benefit grassroots environmental groups, many of which are small, underfunded, and off the radar, who are “working on the front lines to safeguard our air, water, and land for future generations.”
FOREVER 21 ENTERS METAVERSE WITH ROBLOX TO CREATE VIRTUAL FASHION STORES
Forever 21 collaborated with Roblox to create a digital experience. Users will be able to develop, own, and operate their own own business within the game, dubbed the Forever 21 Shop City. Clothing and accessories from Forever 21 will be available for purchase. As players strive to become the top store in the experience, they may hire non-player characters as employees. The experience is a community-focused game that will be accompanied by a number of partnerships. Roblox users @Builder Boy, @Beeism, @OceanOrbsRBX, and @JazzyX3 have collaborated to design an unique apparel collection for Forever 21 Shop City.
The shop will also have stores developed specifically by influencers such as KrystinPlays, Shaylo, and the Sopo Squad. Builders can choose and swap their locations anywhere in the game, perform tasks like stocking inventory and assisting customers, customise the interior, obtain merchandise that Forever 21 has released in its physical stores, and use architectural themes like cottage core and cyber punk for their stores. Obstacle courses, entertainment, a food court, and a yellow carpet will be available in Forever 21 Shop City’s four themed districts.
MARKS & SPENCER APPOINTS DIGITAL PRODUCT CHIEF TO BOOST ITS OMNICHANNEL OPERATIONS
Krista Nordlund, Marks & Spencer’s first chief digital product officer, has been appointed to strengthen the company’s digital capabilities. Nordlund is presently the chief product officer of RentPath, a digital rental marketplace in the United States that she joined in 2016. Her CV also includes posts at consumer-facing companies such as USA Today, Expedia, and US Airways. She will join M&S in January and will be responsible for developing improvements to the company’s app and website in order to improve the consumer experience across all digital touchpoints.
M&S has been undergoing a digital transition in recent years, with the goal of putting digital first rather than just seeing it as an extension of its physical operations. According to the company, this concentration has resulted in tremendous digital growth, as indicated by a 50% rise in app users by 2021. It currently has 14 million members in its redesigned Sparks loyalty programme.
“It’s a great time to be joining M&S as increasing numbers turn to online shopping and the business builds its omnichannel offering. I see a huge opportunity to support the next phase of our transformation by taking the digital experiences we offer customers to the next level.†said Nordlund on her appointment.
It’s always difficult to find the right jeans whose measures meet their branding. Consumers, designers, and suppliers have all been working together to re-imagine denim from the rivets up, owing to the growing awareness of the need for sustainable fashion. Below, we have enumerated some denim brands that design jeans with eco-wise and sustainable efforts to aid you with the best possible buy this year.
1. LEVI’S
Levi Strauss & Co. is a global leader in jeanswear and one of the world’s top brand-name apparel companies. This year, the brand launched its “Buy Better, Wear Longer,” Spring 2021 campaign, which raises awareness about shared responsibility and the environmental implications of apparel production and consumption. The introduction of 55% hemp blended fabrics, new natural-dye techniques, the expanded use of organically grown cotton, and the recyclability of every Wellthread garment was inculcated by the brand. Levi’s Wellthread used a technique by which ultrasonic waves are used to apply the dye to the fibre. The brand also used Water< Less techniques which have saved more than 3.5 billion litres of water since they were introduced nearly a decade ago. A few of the company’s central goals for the future are to use 100 per cent of sustainably produced cotton by 2025, its supply chain will have reduced greenhouse gas emissions by 40% and by 2030, water usage in the industry in water-stressed areas will be reduced by half.
2. NUDIE JEANS
This Swedish denim company delivers and preserves a tradition true to the fabric’s history and attributes by thinking in terms of wear, tear, and repair rather than fast fashion. Teaming up with London-based retailer Browns Fashion, Nudie Jeans has created a collection of 16 denim pieces, all reworked from pre-existing denim. The brand has already repaired 45900 jeans for free and has produced 98.6% Sustainable products. 2021 was the third full year in which it used only certified organic cotton for all the cotton products.
Moreover, according to its Sustainable Material Tool the brand defines a garment or accessory as sustainable when it contains at least 70% sustainable fibres. The brand aims to increase number GOTS-certified denim fabrics to reach 50% of all denim fabrics by 2022 and reach 100% renewable energy sources for electricity used in all Nudie Jeans operated facilities by changing energy subscription or investing in Renewable Energy Certificates by 2023. Nudie Jeans also plans to open 50 new permanent Repair spots, including Repair Shops, Partner stores and Repair partners in the coming years.
3. PANGAIA
Pangaia is a direct-to-consumer materials science company bringing breakthrough textile innovations and patents into the world through everyday lifestyle products. This year, the brand introduced its sustainable denim PANettle, a mix of naturally regenerating wild Himalayan nettle, organic cotton, and PPRMINT for longer-lasting freshness. To diversify its material sources and lessen reliance on traditional cotton, the company employs wild Himalayan nettle. The denim produced is coloured with state-of-the-art water and dye-saving technologies, and the thread is made entirely of biobased cellulose. Non-galvanized, recyclable stainless-steel buttons are also used in denim. The brand created FRUT FIBER and PLNT FIBER to replace cotton in their product line. The two cellulose fibre blends were successfully produced and supplied by Pangaia from fruit and plant raw material sources.
4. RE/DONE
Redone is known for reconstructing Levi’s vintage jeans into modern fits, giving a sense of uniqueness and rareness to each consumer. The brand debuted its first collection designed in line with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign project guidelines. All jeans are made of responsibly sourced 100 per cent organic cotton, recycled hardware, and bio-based patches, and include a hangtag with a QR code that provides consumers with a full traceability report documenting the lifecycle of each product. Items are shipped using recycled, oxo-biodegradable poly bags. The manufacturer also uses laser and e-flow technologies for energy- and water-saving washes and uses a three-stage purification system to reduce water waste. Since its launch, Re/Done reports that it has diverted more than 231,000 garments from landfills.
5. EVERLANE
A millennial-favourite DTC clothing brand, Everlane announced a very ambitious sustainability goal: to eliminate virgin plastic from its supply chain, packaging, offices and stores by 2021. By now, it has successfully removed 90% of all virgin plastics from its supply chain. Following through on its commitment to exclusively using certified-organic cotton by 2023, the denim brand debuted what it calls its cleanest denim to date. All items in the Clean range feature 98.5 per cent GOTS-certified organic cotton and 1.5 per cent Roica. Each piece is produced with microplastic-free dyes and recycled trim. It also debuted its Fall/Winter 2021 ad campaign entitled “Get into Denim†to adorn the brand’s collection of organic denim. Everlane is now looking for early-stage entrepreneurs to join the Next Collective, a fellowship program that will provide participants with $20,000 and access to industry leaders in sustainability, fashion, design, business and innovation.
6. MADEWELL
Madewell, which is known for its denim, is an apparel retailer that promotes creativity, diversity, and self-expression. This year, the brand introduced a new part of its website called “Madewell Forever,” which helps customers find a new home for their well-loved jeans, whether they’re clearing out their wardrobe and seeking a new home for them or they’re in the market for a new pair of denim.
Madewell Forever had around 3,000 pairs of secondhand Madewell jeans in a wide range of fits and styles, most of which ranged from $35 to $50. Furthermore, its spring 2021 collection called Summerweight Denim was designed to replace linen as one’s go-to choice for summer bottoms. The fabric is made from a blend of hemp and cotton which is wrinkle-free, moisture-wicking, breathable, and lightweight. The brand aims to source 100% sustainable and virgin-plastic-free fibres for all materials by 2025. It also aims to make more than 90% of its denim fair trade certified. By 2025, the brand strives to do carbon neutral operations entirely.
7. REFORMATION
The cult favourite label, Reformation has been dabbling in denim, through vintage capsules and designer collaborations. Reformation launched their denim collection in collaboration with FibreTrace, which labels fabrics with a unique pigment that can be tracked and validated throughout the garment supply chain. This effort is in line with Reformation’s goal of complete supply chain transparency by 2025. This year, the brand also signed the 2020 Circularity Fashion System Commitment Letter, with the goal of recirculating 500,000 garments in the next five years and have already been able to reuse or recycle 417,811 garments in 2021 itself. Reformation also teamed up with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign program to achieve its commitment to transforming the way jeans are produced.
8. OUTLAND DENIM
This Australian denim company gained popularity after Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, wore a pair on her royal tour in Australia in 2018. Measured through third-party Environmental Impact Measurement criteria, 97 per cent of Outland Denim’s washes are categorized as “low impact.†This year, Outland Denim expanded its rigid jeans options, collaborated with fellow Aussie brand Spell on a line of vintage-inspired denim staples, introduced ready-to-wear and celebrated a milestone in its traceability journey, marking 100 per cent traceability of its organic cotton denim. It also updated all-black denim to denim dyed using Saveblack, a process that uses 85 per cent less water compared to conventional dyeing. The company stated that it is targeting net-zero emissions by 2030 through practices, policies and by offsetting those emissions that cannot be reduced. It also commits to make 100% of the Outland Denim range leather-free and prioritise use of Bluesign certified chemicals.
9. MUD JEANS
A sustainable and fair trade certified denim brand based in the Netherlands, Mud Jeans has a business model to sell or rent jeans, at the end of their life and then make old jeans into new ones. It has a design process based on circular production, with the use of materials that are easy to repurpose and recycle. 36 of Mud Jeans’ 40 plus styles are made up of 40% post-consumer recycled cotton which is twice the industry average.
Out of 4000 certified B Corporations worldwide, MUD Jeans is among the 5% B Corps with the highest score in environmental performance. The Dutch fashion brand has also collaborated with Swedish home decor brand Ikea to give textiles a second lease of life, specifically, denim. Its sustainability goals include making 5% of its collection from 100% post-consumer recycled cotton by 2022, implementing traceability QR Code and launching new chemical policies for waste management.
10. FRAME
American fashion brand Frame launched Bio-Degradable jeans in partnership with Candiani made from 100 percent cotton that is 100 percent biodegradable. For its fall/winter 2021, Frame revamped its menswear line with trendy cuts for timeless pairs of washed black and indigo jeans. This year it also launched its circular denim collection under EMF Jeans Redesign Project that included denim pieces made of 100% cotton and post-consumer material.
For FRAME Winter 2021, 63% of the FRAME denim line is projected to be responsibly produced according to its Responsible Wash and Responsible Fabric Initiatives. Â 40% of the fibers in its Spring and Summer 2021 Collections are made with either recycled or water-saving cellulose fibers. Its future goals include: 75% of FRAME Denim is set to be sustainable by the end of 2022, 90% of FRAME denim is set to be sustainable by the end of 2025. The brand will launch ReFrame in the coming years.
Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 49
BETTER COTTON ALL SET TO REDUCE GHG EMISSIONS 50% BY 2030
World’s largest cotton certifier, Better Cotton has established a target of cutting its cotton’s overall greenhouse gas emissions per ton by half. Better Cotton has sought to make cotton production more sustainable across the world since its foundation in 2009. It has taught over 2.5 million farmers worldwide and raised 99 million euros since 2010, with that figure expected to rise to 125 million euros by the 2021-22 season.
According to recent research, Better Cotton manufacturing has a 19% lower GHG emissions intensity per ton of lint than production in China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan, and Turkey. Better Cotton expects to release four further objectives in 2022, with the target’s deadline set for 2030, based on a 2017 baseline. Soil health, pesticide usage, smallholder livelihoods, and women’s empowerment are all addressed. “This is a pledge for Better Cotton farmers and a stake in the ground for the global cotton sector. Nearly a quarter of the world’s cotton is currently produced under the Better Cotton Standard. We aim to at least double that by 2030.†said CEO of Better Cotton, Alan McClay.
KONTOOR BRANDS ANNOUNCES ITS 2020 SUSTAINABILITY REPORT
Kontoor Brands has presented its sustainability report for 2020. The business, which owns the brands’ Wrangler and Lee, has been devoted to improving its sustainability goal, with this being its second report in the two years since it went public. According to the report, Kontoor has cut its water use by more than 8 billion liters since 2008, and it is on track to save 10 billion liters by 2025.
Kontoor has also obtained 50% of its cotton responsibly, with the goal of utilizing 100% sustainably sourced cotton by 2025. The report also stated that Kontoor is on pace to employ 100 percent preferred chemistry by 2025 and plans to establish a climate target for carbon emissions in 2022. The business emphasized the social aspect of sustainability by establishing community development projects in Bangladeshi factories. The brand has also worked with the Herproject of Business for Social Responsibility, which aims to enhance access to healthcare for Bangladeshi textile workers.
TENCEL COLLABORATES WITH MORE THAN 40 BRANDS TO REDUCE CARBON EMISSIONS
Sustainable textile manufacturer Tencel has teamed up with over 40 brands, celebrities, and NGOs to launch the #MakeItFeelRight effort to decrease carbon emissions. The movement’s goal is to contribute to the worldwide reforestation effort in order to help rescue the earth, and it has already received over 7,500 pledges. Each commitment results in the planting of a tree.
Sustainable campaigners including Xenia Adonts, Lily Cole, and Chen Ai Ling, as well as businesses like Boyish, Reformation, and Lavender Hill, have endorsed Tencel. The brand also collaborated with artist Bodil Jane to produce promotional artwork, which was subsequently featured on the campaign’s website. “Carbon emissions are a global problem and as such must have global solutions. As a partner of the #MakeItFeelRight campaign we strongly believe that Tencel’s sustainability initiatives, which are enabled by brands and driven by consumers, are a great way to make a positive impact through reforestation,†said Diana Chaplin of One Tree Planted.
INDITEX, ZARA’S OWNER, REVEALS RECORD Q3 SALES AND PROFITS
Zara’s parent company stated record sales and earnings in the 3rd quarter of the year as it recovers from the pandemic. Inditex’s sales in the three months to October 31 were 21% higher than a year ago at constant currency and 10% higher than in 2019. According to the Spanish company, retail and online sales climbed by 33% between November 1 and December 10, 2020, and 10% between November 1 and December 10, 2019. The growth in sales aided the group’s 273 percent gain in net profit to 1.23 billion euros in the third quarter. Meanwhile, online sales increased by 124% in constant currency compared to 2019. According to the group, internet sales would make for more than 25% of total sales in FY2021. “Sales are returning to normal levels, and online sales continue to expand,” the business said of its present finances.
J.C. PENNEY WELCOMES THE EXPANSION OF FOREVER 21 TO 100 STORES
The addition of Forever 21 to JCPenney’s brand portfolio has been announced. The brand will be sold at 100 JCPenney shops around the United States, as well as on the retailer’s website. JCPenney’s reputation as a retailer for teenagers and adults will be strengthened by this action. The introduction of Forever 21 at JCPenney is being supported with a 360-degree marketing effort that includes in-store, e-commerce, social media, and direct mail advertising. The style of Forever 21 is inspired by the West Coast, with neutral and trendy aesthetics interwoven into its design. “Forever 21 and JCPenney share a mission to make the latest trends accessible to all while inspiring unique style and confidence. The addition of this brand to our portfolio rounds out our Young Minded assortment and brings an exciting new element of in-the-moment fashion,†said Michelle Wlazlo, executive vice president and chief merchandising officer at JCPenney.
H&M’S SALES UP BY 11% IN Q4 AS DEMAND SURGES
In local currencies, net sales at H&M Group climbed by 11% in the fourth quarter of 2021 compared to the same period the previous year. In local currency, the company’s net revenues climbed by 12% for the fiscal year 2021, according to a statement. Net sales climbed by 8% to 56,813 million Swedish krona in the fourth quarter, and by 6% to 198,967 million Swedish krona for the entire year when converted to SEK. Despite persistent limitations and the pandemic’s negative impacts, the H&M group’s earnings in local currencies were up to the same level as in the fourth quarter of 2019. Around 100 stores were temporarily shut at the start of the quarter, mostly in Southeast Asia. Around 115 stores were mostly closed at the end of the quarter, predominantly in Austria and Slovakia.
Continuing our weekly news snippets, here are some interesting ones for Week 48
BETTER COTTON RELEASES ITS FIRST-EVER IMPACT REPORT
Better Cotton has released its first-ever Impact Report, which shares the most recent field-level results (2019-20 cotton season) as well as assesses how licensed Better Cotton farmers in China, India, Pakistan, Tajikistan, and Turkey performed on environmental, social, and economic criteria when compared to those who did not participate in the Better Cotton programme. Better Cotton farmers in Tajikistan used 16% less water than Comparison Farmers, Better Cotton farmers in India had 9% higher yields, and Better Cotton farmers in Pakistan used 12% less synthetic insecticide. According to Better Cotton’s study, results are displayed by nation and by sustainability indicator.
While Better Cotton focuses largely on assisting farmers on the ground, the study also takes into account factors such as pesticide, fertilizer, and water consumption, as well as acceptable employment, yields, and earnings. With continual development as a guiding concept for Better Cotton, the paper examined how improving processes and services might have a stronger impact. This includes significant projects such as the traceability workstream and the modification of the Better Cotton principles and standards. “What we all want to see in terms of sustainability is impact. To ensure that we are making a real difference, we gather outcomes data whenever feasible,” said Alia Malik, senior director of Data and Traceability.
BURBERRY PARTNERS WITH MY WARDROBE HQ TO OFFER ITS FIRST-EVER RENTAL AND RESALE SERVICE
As part of the British luxury fashion house’s drive to circular fashion, Burberry has teamed with My Wardrobe HQ to launch a rental and resale platform. According to the new scheme, customers may rent coats, handbags, and accessories from My Wardrobe HQ for up to 14 days. Customers may purchase rented things for a portion of the retail price, with weekly rental costs varying from £41 to £170. Resale prices will vary from £111 for scarves to £750 for trench coats, which retail for £1,990.
Whilst a large percentage of the inventory comes from the legacy brand, the rental catalogue also includes verified gifts from VIP clients and the My Wardrobe HQ community. The agreement will help Smart Works, a UK charity that provides high-quality interview apparel and coaching to disadvantaged jobless women, by donating 40% of the revenues from each sale. The luxury brand has donated products to the charity since 2013. Burberry’s VP of corporate responsibility, Pam Batty, stated that their collaboration with My Wardrobe HQ is complimentary to their larger goal of becoming climate positive by 2040 and supporting the ideals of a circular economy for luxury. Building new collaborations and revaluation solutions, as well as extending reuse, repair, donation, and recycling options, are all part of this.
NIKE, PANTAGONIA AND C&A FACE XINJIANG CLAIMS FOR FORCED LABOUR
A majority of internationally recognized fashion labels, including Nike, C&A and Patagonia, are being filed a lawsuit by the European Center for Constitutional Rights (ECCHR) as being directly or indirectly implicated in the forced labour of the Uyghur community in the Xinjiang province in China. The criminal case, which was filed by Dutch prosecutors with the help of Prakken d’Oliveira Human Rights Lawyers, will look into the corporations’ alleged cooperation in human rights breaches that potentially amount to crimes against humanity.
The Business and Human Rights Resource Centre, a UK and US-registered organization that works to enhance human rights in business and eliminate abuse broke the news of the filing. “Alarming stories regarding torture, re-education camps, and forced labour in China’s Xinjiang region have risen in frequency since 2017,” according to the filing. The companies have suppliers with production facilities in Xinjiang, according to research reports and publicly available supply chain information revealed by the researched brands.” The ECCHR accuses the corporations of “directly or indirectly abetting and benefiting” from Uyghur Muslims’ forced labour in the region, which produces more than a fifth of the world’s cotton.
ITALY BASED PEUTEREY JOINS THE BLUESIGN SYSTEM AS A PARTNER
Peuterey has joined the Bluesign system, pledging to achieve the most stringent sustainability standards in terms of resource efficiency, environmental impact, workplace health and safety, and consumer protection. The Bluesign Input Stream Management system avoids the usage and release of dangerous chemicals throughout the manufacturing process. The Bluesign system is the most stringent standard for the textile industry, with its comprehensive approach, and adopting it means satisfying these standards without sacrificing product functionality, quality, or design. By producing functional, inclusive, and sustainable clothes that will persist throughout time, the company hopes to contribute to a more egalitarian, fair, and successful society.
“We are thrilled to announce that leading Italian brand Peuterey decided to become a Bluesign System partner, showing their strong commitment to the responsible use of resources, responsible production, and responsible chemistry. We look forward to supporting Peuterey on their quest towards excellence in sustainable fashion,†said Kutay Saritosun, head of marketing and communication, Bluesign. In the spirit of a #betterfuture, Peuterey also pledges to put an end to reckless natural resource use by minimising waste and adhering to the principles of the circular economy. According to a press release from Peuterey, the revolutionary Peuterey Recycle project is a limited edition that creatively rethinks the recovery of vintage materials, bringing scraps, accessories, padding, and textiles back to life ensuring 0 percent waste, 100 percent innovation.
LULULEMON ATHLETICA’S SALES RISE BY 30% IN Q3
Lululemon Athletica Inc. recorded a 30 percent growth in net sales to 1.5 billion dollars in the third quarter, whereas net revenue climbed 28 percent on a constant currency basis. In a statement, the firm stated that net revenue climbed by 28% in North America and 40% overseas. On a constant dollar basis, total comparable sales climbed by 27%. On a constant dollar basis, comparable store sales climbed 32 percent or 31 percent, while direct-to-consumer net revenue increased 23 percent or 21 percent to 586.5 million dollars. Gross profit grew 32% to $829.4 million in the third quarter, while gross margin improved 110 basis points to 57.2 percent.
In the third quarter of 2020, diluted profits per share were 1.44 dollars, up from 1.10 dollars in the previous quarter, and adjusted diluted earnings per share were 1.62 dollars, up from 1.16 dollars. During the third quarter, the brand launched 18 additional company-operated stores, bringing the total number of company-operated stores to 552. “Our third-quarter results demonstrate the ongoing strength of Lululemon and the tremendous growth potential of the business in both the near- and long-term. We are pleased with our early holiday season performance,†said Calvin McDonald, CEO.
The Circular design story collection that features a blend of sustainability and style, is the latest addition to H&M’s Innovation stories. The collection addresses circular production as an approach to achieving sustainability. It is the fourth and most recent addition to H&M’s Innovation Stories—”Circular Design Story,” which will be launched on December 9 and will dwell on more circular design techniques and fabrics. It is themed on the ideas of sustainability and joy.
The collection showcases H&M’s commitment to a more circular production process by utilizing a multitude of cutting-edge recycled and recyclable materials, along with paying close attention to adaptation and usability. The Swedish fashion giant has also partnered up with Normani, Gigi Hadid, and Kaia Gerber to celebrate the thrill and anticipation of party-prep and dressing up.
A CLOSER LOOK AT THE CUTTING-EDGE MATERIALS
The range, which employs circular design concepts and sustainable materials, was produced by the H&M design team in collaboration with stylist Ib Kamara, who served as a creative advisor. The H&M team evaluates the steps of the garment development process, looking at estimated lifespan, materials, and design approach, using a design tool called the Circulator. The tool enables the team in developing more sustainable and circular elements and to reach their goal of becoming climate positive by 2040. H&M plans to use the technology to develop all of its pieces by 2025.
Repreve Our Oceans, a fiber generated from bottles gathered on shorelines and coasts, is one of the sustainable materials employed in the collection. The assortment will also include Resorts, a dissolvable sewing thread, and Vega, a vegan substance formed from grape skins, stems, and seeds wasted during the winemaking process. Ambercycle’s Cycora, which is created from old clothing and end-of-life textile waste, will also be used.
The collection is for folks who want to explore and express themselves, and the campaign, which was publicly released earlier this month, reflects this exuberant spirit. It was shot by Rafael Pavarotti, a pioneering photographer, and is titled “Just before the party starts.” The theme reflects the joy of getting ready, as well as the optimism and individualism of people who love fashion, glamming up, choosing new outfits, posing in front of the mirror, dancing, and being free. Kamara and Pavarotti were both actively urged to bring their vibrant, colorful visions to existence.
“I was proud to work with H&M on a collection that is so committed to circularity and positive change, while also embracing style, bold color, great fit. It’s a really multifaceted, rich collection, and it captures a special feeling for me; the excitement and anticipation of getting ready, of choosing a look and making oneself into a star.†Said Ib Kamara, Stylist, and Creative Advisor H&M.
WHAT THE COLLECTION HOLDS
Most of the pieces are versatile, enabling them to create a variety of looks. Blazers may be worn as dresses, straps can be used to vary the fit of shirts or jackets, adjustable zips can make trousers wider, and a ball gown can be detached into a top and skirt. The collection’s longevity is maintained by a unique twist on these classic design elements. Polka dots, bows, frills, tailoring, and jacquard are all featured. Normani, Gigi Hadid, and Kaia Gerber, among others, have collaborated with the brand on the campaign, with sneak peeks of the collection being posted on Instagram. From a pink strappy sequin dress made of recycled polyester to a fitted ensemble composed of discarded materials, each piece in the collection has gained its own distinct aesthetic.
According to Ella Soccorsi, concept designer at H&M, fashion can alter, excite, and empower people. She asserts that the collection is a tribute to that idea, as well as to the specific exhilaration that comes with getting ready to go out, just before the party, styling oneself, preparing to head into the night with friends, full of joy and energy.
The collection is deliberately designed to be cherished, shared, repaired, and recycled. It acknowledges a bold revolutionary outlook and self-expression. The brand marks fashion’s fun and eccentric essence while driving the industry forward to a more circular future.
“People get a picture in their head when you talk about circularity. With a Circular design story, we wanted, to show it is possible to do a bright, fashion-focused collection that is designed with circularity in mind. We wanted to show new possibilities, and offer something hopeful.†said Ann-Sofie Johansson, Creative Advisor at H&M.
ABOUT H&M INNOVATIVE STORIES
H&M Innovation Stories, which launched in early 2021, is driven to foster ecologically viable resources, technology, and production techniques. Previous stories have covered the Science Story, which focused on sustainable products, the Color Story, which campaigned for environmentally conscious color techniques, and the Co-exist Story, which approached animal-friendly fashion.
Primark has introduced a new denim collection designed to highlight what circular fashion signifies in practical terms. The new line is part of The Jeans Redesign, a fashion initiative of the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, and features denim that has been designed, developed, and created to correspond with the Foundation’s goal of a circular economy for fashion. The procedures, which are based on the concepts of the circular economy, suggest that jeans are worn extensively, built to be created again, and are made with safe, recycled, or sustainable materials.
According to Lynne Walker, Director of Primark Cares, the brand launched its Primark Cares sustainability strategy in September and committed to changing the way clothes were made, ensuring that they are recyclable by design by 2027, made from more sustainably sourced or recycled materials by 2030, and last longer by 2025. He went on to say that denim was a wardrobe essential for their customers. This new release brings the brand’s vision to life and demonstrates what these changes look like in reality. Most significantly, Primark proves that it can do so without sacrificing the design and price that customers adore.
WHAT THE COLLECTION OFFERS
Primark has therefore provided a unique range of jeans and denim jackets as a part of the Jeans Redesign project, comprising denim crafted from organic cotton and recycled fibers. The denim is deliberately designed to be readily recycled so that it can be transformed into new jeans after they are no longer worn. Metal rivets are not used in the product, which is a regular style component that might make recycling jeans difficult. Labeling also contains instructions for removing buttons and zips before recycling to guarantee that the product has a second life.
The jeans are composed of 70% organic cotton, 29% recycled cotton, and 1% elastane, while the jackets are produced from 80% organic cotton and 20% recycled cotton. Denim jeans for women (£19) and denim jeans for men (£18), as well as an adult denim jacket for £21, are part of the assortment. The collection is currently available at 161 Primark stores in the 14 countries in which the brand serves.
“The Jeans Redesign demonstrates that it is possible to create garments fit for a circular economy today, and this is just the beginning. By taking these first steps, organizations like Primark build the confidence to explore and learn how to put products on the market aligned with circular economy principles. We’re pleased to see the solutions identified by Primark and the growing understanding of the challenges that must be addressed to achieve the vision of a circular economy for fashion. Now the concept has been proven, we cannot delay progress. There is a need for industry and government to continue driving momentum, at pace and scale, towards a circular economy for fashion.†Said Laura Balmond, Lead Make Fashion Circular at the Ellen MacArthur Foundation.
PRIMARK’S COMMITMENTS TOWARDS SUSTAINABILITY
This circular denim line adheres to the announcement of Primark’s sustainability strategy the previous month. In it, the global retailer stated its objectives to minimize fashion waste, cut carbon emissions up to 50 percent throughout its value chain, and promote the welfare of those who work in the Primark factory. Primark is boosting its drive to become a circular and more sustainable brand within the next five years, with nine commitments all across the company. Primary goals include utilizing recycled and more sustainably produced materials in all of its merchandise by 2030, up from 25% currently, thus guaranteeing clothing is meant to be recycled, and enabling clothes longevity.
It is also seeking ways to reduce carbon emissions by at least50 percent at every phase of the Primark product life cycle, from the fields where raw materials are acquired to processing and manufacturing, and finally when a customer buys a Primark product in-store. In terms of the people who manufacture its products, Primark is striving to support and enrich the lives of those who make its apparel by implementing a living wage by 2030.
ABOUT THE JEANS REDESIGN PROJECT
The Jeans Redesign initiative aims to increase circularity in the denim industry by establishing criteria for brands and suppliers to follow to create jeans that can be used more often, are designed to be created again, and are made of safe, recyclable, and renewable sources. The guidelines, which are based on the principles of the circular economy, will seek to guarantee that jeans last longer, can be readily recycled, and are created in a way that is healthier for the environment and the health of garment workers. This project is a part of Make Fashion Circular.
The Ellen MacArthur Foundation launched Make Fashion Circular during the 2017 Copenhagen Fashion Summit, bringing together leaders from the fashion industry to collaborate with cities, charities, non-governmental organizations (NGOs), and innovators. Make Fashion Circular is spearheading international efforts to reduce waste and pollution in the fashion industry by establishing a circular economy in which garments are worn more frequently, are designed to be reused, and are created from safe, recycled, or renewable materials.
Iconic American brands Lee and Pendleton have recently announced the launch of their first collaboration. Lee, the famed fashion label known for its ageless aesthetic, and Pendleton Woolen Mills, the family-owned lifestyle brand based in the Pacific Northwest, have joined forces on a selected capsule that honours American craftsmanship and artistry. Both Kontoor-owned brands designed and created an assortment that reflects their origins in a contemporary way, while having almost 300 years of textile and garment-making expertise between them.
“Working with Lee was a perfect pairing for Pendleton. Their authentic American heritage brand echoes Pendleton’s dedication to quality, design and textile innovation,†said Peter Bishop, Pendleton executive vice president of merchandise and design.
The denim range perfectly captures the American outdoor-meets-work wear vibe.
WHAT THE COLLECTION OFFERS
This limited-edition ensemble retraces wardrobe staples from the brands’ 300 years of collective clothing experience. Original Lee silhouettes including the Lee 101 Jean, Union-Alls, and Storm Rider Jacket have been reinterpreted with Pendleton intricate designs. Each heritage pattern has been recreated in completely new colors on fabric made in the United States. Woolen pieces are harnessed as shirting material and can be seen on collars, pockets, and piping. A minimal wool blanket is also contained in the assortment.
The jeans are handcrafted and produced locally in Greensboro, North Carolina, adding to the capsule’s distinctiveness. These designs provide some of the last remaining American selvedge denim from Cone Denim’s White Oak Mill, which closed in 2017. The fabric, which was spun on old Draper shuttle looms that could only generate 100 yards per day, is yet another thread in this capsule’s that ties links with American textile history. Lee and Pendleton are both wholly accustomed to co-branded endeavors.
The woolen mill has transferred its signature designs to a wide range of items, including Ariat boots, Vans shoes, and Kith loungewear, as well as Hunter ceiling fans and Sunbrella outdoor home accessories. Meanwhile, Lee has increased its collaborative efforts to appeal to a broader range of customers. This year, Lee debuted collaborations with H&M, The Hundreds, and Alife.
As seen by Betty Madden, Lee vice president of global design, Pendleton’s choice of color and patterning has proven to be of great ingenuity for the denim manufacturer.
“Working together is a dream come true. We’ve taken a fresh design approach and incorporated Cone Mills’ selvedge denim to make this collection heirloom quality with stunning craftsmanship. I’m thrilled with this collaboration.†Said Betty Madden, Lee vice president of global design.
THE WHITE OAK SELVEDGE FABRIC
The origins of American selvedge fabric, especially the white oak plant, dates back to 1905. The phrases selvedge denim and self-edge – or self-finished cloth edges – are related. Selvedge denim jeans use the self-edge as a completed seam in the jean construction, particularly along the outseam. Selvedge denim is made using traditional weaving processes. Authentically weaved on antique looms. Selvedge looms were widely used in denim weaving until the mid-to-late-nineteenth century. As global demand for denim increased, US mills began updating their gear to increase production speed, rendering selvedge looms obsolete. Older selvedge looms were slower and produced less consistently. With the demand for denim workwear skyrocketing in the United States. Moses and Ceasar Cone were noted for producing selvedge denim on its 3×1 draper looms, for which it became most famous.
Cone’s famous selvedge denim has been created in the White Oak facility since it was bought in 1905, and the plant was named after a big oak tree that previously stood in its shade. After decades of increasingly disposable jeans from large manufacturers, customers increasingly learned to value the toughness, longevity, and build quality of denim manufacturers like Cone. Today, selvedge weaving has regained prominence due to the weaving technique’s legacy and the mills that prefer to produce it.
THE LEE 101 JEANS
The first pair of Lee 101 jeans was crafted in the American Midwest in 1924. A heavy-duty, robust pair of jeans to fulfill the now-legendary Cowboy’s work and leisure needs. The groundbreaking, crisp fit designed in high-quality textiles meant that the 101 became renowned among both weathered lone riders and showmen like rodeo stars. The unique vintage denim is colored and then woven using looms that have been utilized in Japan for the previous 50 years. Back pockets with an S-curve and a spade shape, X-tacks, a hip pocket label, and Lee brand rivets and buttons. Now in the ninth decade of the 101’s existence, Lee intends to launch a line of clothing to commemorate the 101’s historically significant background, proudly displaying the exquisite workmanship and glorifying the pioneering spirit that inspired it.
Men’s and women’s pants, shirts, jackets, and Union-Alls are included in the collection, as is a limited-edition woolen blanket with an exclusive Pendleton stripe design. The collection, which ranges in price from $175 to $400, is available online on Lee’s and Pendleton’s websites. It will also be accessible in select Pendleton stores and local boutiques later this month.
