Crystal International Group Limited, a prominent player in the global apparel manufacturing industry, is taking bold strides towards circularity with its latest venture, the Renewcell Circulose Supplier Network. Teaming up with Renewcell, a Swedish textile recycling company, Crystal International is spearheading the movement for circular development in the fashion world.

Founded in Hong Kong in 1970, Crystal International Group Limited has a diversified product portfolio and a multi-country manufacturing platform, Crystal International serves leading global brands through a highly differentiated “Co-creation” business model. The Group maintains a keen focus on sustainability and aims to achieve its Crystal Sustainability Vision 2030 and Net Zero 2050 Vision, positioning itself as a driving force for positive social and environmental contributions.

Renewcell

Renewcell, a pioneer in textile recycling innovation, has introduced the CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network (CSN) – a group of forty-seven yarn and textile producers dedicated to advancing the circular economy by ensuring a steady supply of CIRCULOSE® to the market.

Crystal International Group Limited is among the leading companies partnering with Renewcell in this initiative.

Crystal International’s Role in CSN

Crystal International’s collaboration with Renewcell in the CSN aims to ensure a consistent supply of CIRCULOSE® to the fashion industry, fostering circularity in textile production. And also commits to the continuous development of circular solutions, contributing to sustainable textiles and end-products under the CIRCULOSE® brand name.

Empowering Circular Economy in Fashion

CIRCULOSE® is a revolutionary Next Generation raw material derived from recycled cellulose found in worn-out clothing. Renewcell’s pioneering process transforms this into dissolving pulp, serving as the foundation for various regenerated fibers. Crystal International and other CSN members lead the way by streamlining CIRCULOSE® production across the supply chain, allowing fashion brands to access circular options for designing and creating clothing with CIRCULOSE®.

A Transformation Process: CIRCULOSE® is transformed into dissolving pulp made from 100% recycled textiles, forming the foundation for different regenerated fibers, including viscose, lyocell, modal, acetate, and other man-made cellulosic fibers. The recycling process involves shredding, de-buttoning, de-zipping, de-coloring, and turning discarded textiles into a slurry, which is then dried to produce pure CIRCULOSE® sheets. Renewcell’s commitment to using 100% renewable energy in the production process has earned them various sustainability certifications with good traceability.

Crystal International’s collaboration in the CIRCULOSE® Supplier Network marks a significant milestone in the circular economy advancement. By partnering with leading yarn and textile producers, CIRCULOSE® aims to transform the fashion industry, paving the way for a circular future in the fashion supply chain. The commitment to sustainability and circularity strengthens Crystal International’s position as a driving force in promoting positive change within the global apparel industry.

Check out Special Denim Export and Import Data Reports to Glean Insights on Global Markets

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A Father’s Legacy Inspires a Creative Vision

Born x Raised founder, Chris Printup, known as Spanto, found solace in his father’s belongings after his passing. Surrounded by cherished memories, Spanto conceived a powerful idea—to pay homage to his father’s legacy through the art of clothing.

A Memorable Encounter: Amongst his father’s possessions, Spanto stumbled upon an old Levi’s denim jacket that held deep sentimental value. Instantly, he recognized the opportunity to create a project dedicated to his father’s memory, igniting a creative spark that would shape the collaboration.

Honoring Butch’s Memory Through Style

Born x Raised joins forces with Levi’s to bring Spanto’s heartfelt idea to life. He imparts his unique touch to Levi’s iconic pieces such as the classic 501 jeans, denim Trucker jackets, and graphic tees. Each garment becomes a canvas of remembrance and love.

Every item in the collection, priced from $180 for the jeans to $325 for the jacket, features a special screen-printed graphic print symbolizing Butch’s watchful presence. The Trucker jacket bears the embroidered phrase “Born x Raised, In Loving Memory,” an exquisite detail that evokes a deep emotional connection. Spanto affirms that everything in the collaboration stems from his father’s teachings and actions.

Embracing Heritage and Identity

A Glimpse into Spanto’s Past: Spanto’s upbringing in Venice, California, greatly influences the collection. The vibrant and expressive fashion of the ’80s and ’90s, where clothing became a statement of courage and self-expression, serves as a constant inspiration. Partnering with Levi’s, renowned for capturing the laid-back Californian lifestyle, ensures a seamless reflection of Born x Raised’s timeless essence.

The Spirit of Indigenous Heritage: Spanto’s Indigenous roots, with Apache and Seneca ancestry, run deep within the campaign. Real people from his life, including his mother, siblings, and acclaimed actors Richard Cabral and Amber Midthunder, become models for the collection. This authentic representation fosters a sense of community and respect for diverse backgrounds.

A Journey of Self-Discovery

Uncovering Family Connections: Designing this assortment becomes a personal odyssey for Spanto, as he delves into his family’s history. Traveling to their ancestral lands in Arizona, visiting his father’s childhood home, and connecting with relatives enables him to learn more about his identity and gain a profound understanding of himself.

Spanto’s aspiration for the collection extends beyond aesthetics. Each piece holds a special spirit that he hopes wearers will sense—an evocative experience unique to each individual. With Born x Raised, he strives to provoke strong emotions and forge meaningful connections.

Spanto’s Levi’s Collaboration by Born x Raised stands as a testament to the enduring love and respect he has for his late father. This heartfelt tribute weaves together personal history, cultural heritage, and a passion for fashion. Through symbolism, authenticity, and a genuine sense of community, the collection transcends boundaries and invites everyone to experience its profound beauty.

Check out Special Denim Export and Import Data Reports to Glean Insights on Global Markets

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How Will Crystal International Strengthen Their Supply Chain?

• Crystal Denim, denim division of the renowned Crystal Group, recently partnered with multiple fabric manufacturers in Vietnam to introduce various sustainable and eco-friendly fabric collections.
  
• This strategic partnership allows the group to make use of environmentally safe dyes while also driving forward their mission of enabling greener production and faster product development.
  
• Result-The partnership encourages the reduction of water and energy consumption while also using products with minimal environmental impact. Furthermore, it also helps Crystal Denim improve its efficiency by introducing powerful quality control systems to reduce wastage during production.
  
• The division of a company has established a dedicated 3D team.
  The aim of this team is to use the power of 3D software and hardware to provide the same visual experiences as physical samples while optimizing lead times and minimizing sample wastage. This is an incredibly powerful strategy as it eliminates all guesswork when designing products, bringing down production costs, increasing efficiency and driving sustainable development.

Vision

In an effort to help keep the environment clean and preserve natural resources, a team of professionals is looking to improve the virtual development capability by 50% in 2023. This improvement will enable denim factories to reduce chemical usage and implement low water ratio eco-washing during the laundry process.

By using laser technology, waterless enzymes, front-loading, E-flow washing machines, and other innovative measures, these factories can achieve their goals while ensuring that they’re being sustainable and efficient. Furthermore, this will lead to more efficient production without undermining quality or consumer safety.

Crystal Denim X Advance Denim X Prosperity Textile

Crystal Denim, in collaboration with Advance Denim and Prosperity Textile, has revolutionized the textile industry in Vietnam. By partnering up with these denim innovators:

Advance Denim

• The fashion industry is taking sustainability to the next level with the launch of its new collection in partnership with Advance Denim. This fashion-forward collection is made from 100% recycled materials including recycled pre-consumer cotton and spandex, which is a significant step towards achieving 100% recycling.
  
• Their fully recycled content, Infinity Blue Wash technique, and distinctive fabric characteristics and shades enable them to produce eco-friendly jeans that stands out from conventional denim. Using this collaboration they are able to offer products that are both trendsetting and responsible for the environment.
  
• As a testament to fashion circularity, this unique collection has been designed to use sustainable materials in a cost effective manner while making sure that quality and style are not compromised. The positive synergy created by this collaboration will help reduce waste products while aiming to create more sustainable production processes for the future.

Prosperity Textile

• The collaboration between Prosperity Textile and Fabric collection is introducing an environmental friendly approach to fashion. With the innovative use of sustainable materials, the collection offers comfortable stretch and authentic look while creating denim styles that are gentle on the planet.

The collaboration has resulted in a new fabric innovation that consists of nine different fabrics, allowing Crystal Denim to produce over 20 new products. This move encourages vertical development and creates opportunities for job growth throughout Vietnam.

Mission

Crystal Denim, a sustainability-driven denim manufacturer has taken on an ambitious mission to use locally sourced fabric mills and localized supply chain to reduce carbon emissions by 25% while simultaneously shortening lead times by 80%.

The goal of this move is to make a positive impact on our environment, while reducing operational costs and boosting quality standards for customers. By leveraging automation and AI technology, the Crystal Denim team is well-poised to revolutionize global sustainable fashion with their innovation.

We are spearheading local sourcing and accelerating supply chain collaboration in Vietnam to foster synergy.

We all share a common goal of introducing sustainable denim fabric and developing exclusive jeans for our customers,” said Miles Lam, assistant general manager of Crystal Denim

With their latest sustainability initiative, they are looking to increase their focus on reducing the adverse effects of their operations on the environment while balancing business objectives. Furthermore, this venture could potentially mean greater job creation opportunities for people living in Vietnam – a key benefit of this commitment that should not be overlooked.

Check out Special Denim Export and Import Data Reports to Glean Insights on Global Markets

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Together with Adriano Goldschmied, we want to further increase the quality of our denim

Goldschmied, who has revolutionized techniques and styles in the world of denim, enriches OVS with his experience and brings his culture to the company.  With him, we will reach more evolved peaks of experimentation, not only in terms of fashion content but above all in terms of sustainability,” said Stefano Beraldo, CEO, OVS.

F/W 2023 has an exciting new collaborative collection with Goldschmied that is guaranteed to bring something special to every wardrobe. This collection offers a range of silhouettes, from cargos and wide legs to tailored details and fits, designed to enhance all body shapes.

With innovative fabrications and eye-catching design features, these pieces create looks that transition seamlessly from day-to-night.

For men, five-pocket jeans in selvedge denim represents the ultimate expression of jeans and has been crafted with Adriano’s years of expertise in the industry. Together, they have created a perfect blend of simplicity and sophistication that offers the customers an authentic selection for all occasions.

“I was impressed by the expertise and sustainability strategy developed by OVS, a group driven by a deep responsibility and awareness of how the business must evolve,” Goldschmied said.

Game Changer Dyeing

Additionally, OVS is taking an innovative approach to dyeing with the introduction of Blu Infinity, a type of dyeing created by the Pakistani company Crescent Bahuman. This new dyeing is set to be a game changer for the F/W 2023 S/S 2024 seasons for the Italian market and it will be tested on a selection of men’s and women’s garments.

With this project, OVS promises to bring the latest trend in dyeing innovation to its customers. Additionally, it improves color absorption and ensures low usage of water. Check the video below :

OVS Sustainability Approaches

Over the last several years, OVS has long been committed to creating a more sustainable approach to its dyeing processes, from reducing water usage to decreasing carbon dioxide emissions.

• OVS has adopted the Blu Infinity dyeing process which saves up to 62% more water than conventional indigo dyeing methods and significantly reduces energy consumption and CO2 emission.

• OVS, as of 2019, has taken a pioneering step to stop using potassium permanganate in its denim collections. Potassium permanganate (KMnO4) is involved in many chemical processes that are hazardous to both humans and the environment.

• To achieve the aged effects of their denim fabrics, OVS utilizes non-harmful treatment, such as laser or biodegradable enzyme technology.

This shift towards eco-friendly fashion production is a constant effort of conscious-minded brands across the globe that are looking for effective ways to reduce environmental pollution while still maintaining high quality standards.

How OVS Is Staying Ahead In The Market?

In order to stay competitive in this quickly evolving green economy, the group decided to further its decarbonization strategy in 2022.

• This was achieved through lowering its environmental impact by embracing more sustainable raw materials & production processes.

• To minimize emissions even further, the group also introduced photovoltaics and increased collaboration with its suppliers in adopting new low-emission technologies.

• OVS is staying at the forefront of fashion sustainability by not only integrating new production models and processes, but also committing to using eco-sustainable materials for the construction of its shops.

• To prove their commitment to sustainability, OVS recently released a T-shirt capsule made from organic cotton grown in Italy. This capsule will be not only unique in terms of its fabric, but also unique in terms of its production process.

Last year was a success year for the OVS Group with an 11.3% increase in their net sales to €1,513 million.

If you are looking for a sustainable wardrobe, RENU Jacket from PANGAIA is the perfect option for you! The jacket is made of NuCycl, a polymer fabric which features an array of sustainable benefits.

These two companies are focused on improving the quality and value of already existing fabrics through innovative recycling technologies. By doing this, they hope to reduce reliance on virgin, fossil fuel derived or animal derived resources. Especially when it comes to improving sustainability and giving more options when it comes to garment production. As a result, their work stands for the highest caliber of innovation in the field of recycled fibers. Using their own proprietary technology to break down existing fibers into new ones and partnering with fashion brands for specialized projects, these companies demonstrate their promise for improved quality from recycling technology.

NuCycl, created by EVRNU, is a revolutionary fiber made from pre & post consumer textile waste . It can be recycled up to 5x without sacrificing quality or performance. This unique fiber is 4x stronger than other cellulosic fibers like cotton and majority of man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCF). Besides, it helps to divert textile waste from going into landfills. NuCycl’s groundbreaking use of pre and post consumer textile waste allows for endless possibilities when it comes to designing new fabrics, garments and products with sustainability in mind.

The RENU jacket from PANGAIA’s modern wardrobe is a stylish piece of apparel designed to be worn over a hoodie. What sets it apart from other jackets is the use of NuCycl, a substantial and resource-intensive substitute for cotton. NuCycl doesn’t need to be combined with any virgin fiber and can more easily be recycled than traditional fibers. This makes the jacket an eco-friendly alternative to traditionally sourced materials. The oversized fit allows for extra layers if needed. This makes this jacket not only stylish but also earth-friendly in its design.

If you are looking to reduce your carbon footprint , RENU Jacket from PANAGIA is definitely worth checking out! Click here

Want to check out more trending collection? Visit Denimsandjeans exhibitions to witness more trending collection and register here

TCE is well known as one of the first denim mills in Asia – leading and inspiring the industry in this part of the world . Can you share some important milestones in the growth of the company?

TCE has grown to become one of the leading denim mills in Asia. Established in 1956, in South Korea and started Vietnam production in 2013 vertically operating from Denim fabric to Garment manufacturing. TCE is committed to continuously produce high quality products that meet market needs, and their commitment has resulted in the company’s successful growth and expansion over the years.

• The first milestone of our growth is to adopt “One Stop Shopping” in ONE place by vertically integrated full package service for our customers while reducing transit time and relevant cost significantly under volatile global SCM. In addition, we continue to invest in full sustainability from innovative materials to production facilities without compromising fashion and trend.

• The second milestone was the company’s adoption of a fully sustainable model. The current wastewater treatment is different from others. We treat wastewater as A grade quality followed by local government regulation. However, we feel that this process is not enough till zero discharge is achieved considering the well being of current and future generations. After treatment, the A grade water goes through carbon sand tank filtration, and then through Ultra filtration one more time. Finally Reverse Osmosis Membrane filtration process is done. The result is drinking level quality water.

Then we prepare for sustainable collections from eco-friendly materials and communicate with valuable customers every single year. In addition, we constantly investigate and upgrade our facilities for medium and long term eco sustainability.

The themes for 2022 and 2023 are Saving Earth Denim and Denim X Nature respectively.

The installation of the denim mill and denim garment manufacturing unit in Vietnam were perhaps the biggest steps taken by your company in recent years. How has the integrated operation been successful in providing a package offer to the brands?

The Simple is the Best, Through TCE’s well-organized vertical operation from fabric to garment.

Affordable fast fashion with effective production based on consumer needs in one location and streamlined procedures.

It is transitioning from an annual focus on fabric and garments just to a full package trend and swift client response. Several FTA benefits, including those made in Vietnam (EU-VIETNAM FTA, EU-JAPAN FTA, CPTTP), boost cost competitive advantage and expansion to the countries.

Your collections are well appreciated by the customers. What specific products or collections would you be focusing on during the Denimsandjeans Event in Vietnam in March?

Sustainability is not an option, but an essential thing. TCE wants to introduce two themes, “Denim by Nature” and “Saving Earth Denim” as new innovative materials focusing on sustainability.

With Denim x Nature , we believe everyone recognizes cotton is highly water and chemical intensive crop. TCE strives to study and develop many natural fibers can be alternative cotton as much as we can such as Soy, Sisal, Kapok, Abaca and Pineapple, Banana thru Tropical trees in East Asia.

Our goal is to present the audience with stylish apparel pieces that are not only attractive but also functional in nature. We believe that our collections will impress the customers at Denimsandjeans event owing to their innovative use of fabric technologies.

With Saving Earth Denim, Saving planet for next generation, TCE produces many products using recycled resources from wasted ocean fish net, pet bottle, agricultural wastes and biodegradable products such as Fish Net Denim, Mermaid Denim, Bioplastic Denim, Pre/Post consumer waste cotton, and so on.

How do you see Vietnam evolving and providing more value to global customers ?

Vietnam is garnering more attention as it develops into an Asian manufacturing hub with numerous FTA benefits and more stringent China C/O restrictions.

Next to sustainability, transparency and traceability are becoming the norm and of utmost importance. TCE is ready to offer all pertinent documentation to customers worldwide.

2022 has been a tough year for all. How do you see 2023?

• Given the potential for a slowing global economy and sluggish consumer demand, 2023 is likely to be another year with significant prospects and challenges.
• Consumer demand plummeted due to lingering global pandemic effects, causing companies and brands to re-evaluate their operations. To stay afloat, many firms are continuing to diversify their sourcing strategies and strengthening relationships with key vendors in response to the volatile market environment as well as keep sourcing sustainability and transparent supply chain.
• In addition, we are trying to provide more valuable products to buyers as the demand for jeans continues even in the event of an economic crisis .

I think this is our own challenge regardless of the change in the external environment.

Visit our website for Denimsandjeans Vietnam to register and visit the show. To read about our other exhibitions, check here

For more information , you can contact Alex at alex@tcedenim.com

This milestone marks the company’s first attendance at the Denimsandjeans event. The two-day event promises to offer insight into new trends, best practices, and Xdd’s commitment towards developing technologies that promote sustainability. We spoke to the Director of XDD Vietnam Mr Man Ng to know more about the company’s operations and vision .

XDD textiles has recently set up a denim mill in Vietnam . Our readers would like to know more about XDD and its background, growth etc.

XDD TEXTILE is a spinning and denim mill based in Vietnam. Also, all of our cotton is purchase from U.S. with different certifications. Eg; Cotton Trust Protocol. Sustainability is one of our strength, because of our RO system’s potential to achieve 50%, we have an overall water recycling rate of 80% this year, and we expect to reach 100% by 2025. Our fabric quality may give you a simple solution to get the vintage or marble look, coming with a great colors cast, which is our key competitive advantage over other mills. The foreword states that we work closely with Lenzing and combine different types of materials to make better products, such as blending or adding recycled cotton, employing PCW materials, such as EcoVero.

With the denim mill in Vietnam , how is the company able to serve its global customer base? Why do you think Vietnam is becoming increasingly important?

With the denim mill in Vietnam, the company is better placed to serve its global base of customers due to the recently concluded European Union-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement. This agreement is a new generation FTA between Viet Nam and 28 European Union member states, providing a wide range of opportunities for companies from both sides.

• Eliminating 99% of all tariffs
• Reducing regulatory barriers and overlapping red tape
• Ensuring protection of geographical indications
• Opening up services and public procurement markets
• Making sure the agreed rules are enforceable

The agreement removes tariffs and other barriers that have hindered trade in the past, making it easier for companies to do business in either region. This agreement also includes improved access for service providers and investors as well as provisions on intellectual property rights, which makes it easier for innovative companies to protect their inventions.

Vietnam is becoming increasingly important due to its strategic geographic location and its rapidly developing economy. With the EU-Vietnam FTA in place, it makes sense for companies to set up production plants there due to cheaper labor costs and access to a wider consumer base. The country has also become an attractive destination for foreign investors due to its low taxes, relaxed regulations.

What key products and collections you would be showcasing to visiting buyers during the Denimsandjeans Vietnam event on March 1-2?

Denimsandjeans Vietnam show is a well-known event for showcasing key products and collections. We are glad to announce that during this event, we will be placing the spotlight on these categories and providing our visitors with a huge variety of options to choose from. In our efforts to promote sustainability and eco-friendly products, we will be displaying eco-friendly collections made exclusively for women alongside other unique vintage products. Furthermore, our “Green Denim” collection will give buyers access to an interesting array of denim consists of Closed loop collection and Ecology Denim. We hope that these collections will capture the attention of visitors and give them an opportunity to select the best among what is on offer.

Authentic

• Vintage Friendly Collection

Exclusive Women’s E Collections:

• One Size Fit
• One Size Fit– 2 nd Skin

Green Denim

• Closed Loop Collection
• Ecology Denim

More Options

• Black Denim
• Naturals
• Core Items

Vietnam already has stringent laws related to sustainable processes. Has XDD gone further to use technologies which helps to become a preferred partner of the brands?

XDD REUSE TAKES ON COTTON TRAGEABILITY IN DENIM PRODUCTION
Although circularity has gained popularity in the denim industry recently, traceability is crucial for identifying and addressing the underlying environmental issues that manufacturing might cause. Cotton is the primary raw material used to create the well-known fabric in the denim industry, and it is the subject of all discussion. When XDD Textile introduced its XDD REUSE tracing system, it sought to address a significant concern in the denim industry: how might traceability be enhanced in the cotton production and recycling processes?

Pre-consumer trash is gathered from the mill’s affiliated clothing manufacturer by XDD Textile, which then regenerates and spins it into cotton that is as good as new. This recycled cotton may be traced because it comes from the cuttable waste from XDD’s own fabric. In this “Cut Waste Reuse” technique, XDD can recycle cotton from the garment manufacturing process using 10 to 15 percent of the cut waste. The recent development of such percentages to 20 percent and beyond illustrate the industry’s appetite for additional recycled cotton, even if several firms have already used 5 percent recycled cotton to continue with sustainable fabric production activities. Recycled cotton provides significant benefits, in that it can prevent additional textile waste and require far fewer resources than conventional or organic cotton.

The waste is often classified into 2 categories:

• Pre-consumer waste, which includes scraps created by yarn and fabric byproducts
• Post-consumer waste, which also includes garments from previously recycled finished goods.

The raw material for the XDD REUSE collection , which is made from pre-consumer waste, comes from the partner garment factory of DD, which regularly uses fabrics from the manufacturer In addition to using trash to make fresh fabric, XDD REUSE also makes use of the company’s Closed Loop System to further confirm the quality of the denim and make it possible to track the origin of the cotton. The textile mill can collect and regenerate the cotton using XDD’s circular Closed Loop System, which also increases the plant’s capacity to produce 100 tones of recycled cotton each month. As Vietnam bans the import of garbage, the system is driven by the XDD wastewater recycling process to reuse and recycle waste.

XDD Textile itself operates as a vertical enterprise, starting from the purchase of cotton, all the way through the yarn spinning and denim production and recycling processes. The company attributes this vertical model to its ability to offer a traceable cotton supply. XDD has built a recycling process designed to divert more products from landfills, which would help alleviate the estimated 25 billion pounds in annual textile waste produced, according to the Council for Textile Recycling.

The company’s established tracing process for the XDD REUSE collection can be
viewed here:

With the above process in place, XDD aims to guarantee and ensure that all denim production at its factories remain of the highest quality. XDD says it is the first mill in Vietnam that has started to use cuttable fabric waste for recycled cotton, which is now certified by Control Union, Recycled
Claim Standard (RCS) and Global Recycle Standard (GRS).

Visit our website for Denimsandjeans Vietnam to register to visit the show and check out the collection of XDD !.

For more information , you can contact XDD Team man@xdddenim.com

Store Design

The way that the leftover denim is displayed on the wall is unique but appealing. The doors and racks are constructed from discarded, unwanted pieces of wood that have been arranged to look as though they have always been there. Their vibrant, fun, and stylish inventory mesmerized us and just spruced up our everyday shopping for clothes.

Reconstructed denim served as inspiration for the store’s design. A traditional Japanese residence decorated for a tea ceremony served as the location of one of the Kapital stores in Ebisu. In particular we visited the KAPITAL LEGS – the store dedicated to everything in denim. Each of their stores has a distinctive personality. Some require you to take off your shoes before you enter. Others are crammed together like an American vintage shop with strange artifacts from the Kapital archive heaped high and Ebisu store was one of them. It’s utterly original, unlike anything else, but curiously familiar.

East Meets West Design

The brand faced a huge transformation when Kiro, Toshikiyo’s son, chose to leave Kojima to pursue his education in America in 1996. Kapital underwent a significant transition and was influenced by the Americana movement in 1996. The EAST MEETS WEST fusion concept, a blending of Japanese and Western designs, is introduced by this artistic Japanese brand called Kapital.

Natural dyes and traditional Japanese Sashiko, Boro stitching and repairs are hallmarks of this exquisite brand. KAPITAL’s areas of expertise are processing and stitching , and very few businesses worldwide are able to do both tasks. The stitching technique -Sashiko – has been used for more than 400 years. Tradition dictates that lines and designs are created with a running stitch and white cotton thread. Typically, indigo blue traditional cloth would be used for this.

KAPITAL began by making jeans, but they now produce a wide range of products, primarily apparel made of denim. With a few exceptions, all KAPITAL products are produced at the company’s factories, including shoes, and accessories. Whether you’re looking for everyday clothing or festival attire for the summer, you can find it there. And the prices are not sky high when you consider the Japanese yen today !

We highly recommend visiting Kapital store when in Tokyo .
Kapital Legs : 2 Chome-23-12 Ebisuminami · +81 3-5773-8305

With Tonello joining the first Denimsandjeans Show in Japan, we spoke to Alice Tonello about the history and focus of Tonello during the Japan show.

Tonello Is One of the Oldest Denim Washing Machine Makers in Europe. Can You Share Some Important Milestones in Your Progress?

The company’s official founding year was 1981, which means we recently celebrated our first 40 years in business. However, the company’s founder, Osvaldo Tonello, as well as my uncle, had started laying the groundwork and working under his own name as early as 1975. After that it was a succession of research, experimentation and launching innovations.

Among the milestones, certainly in 1985, with the G1 300, the definitive consecration of the open drum, front opening machine, with front inclination: a revolutionary technology also from the point of view of water saving, compared to previous belly machines. And all this at a time in history when the word “sustainability” was not yet known. It was more about efficiency. Later, in the late 1980s/early 1990s, the first robots for automated spraying and scratching of garments. They marked an incredible revolution for the industry at that time. Then, the first laser in the market, in 1995, and other iconic and successful technologies still to follow, such as Batik and ozone. 1997 represents another important date for us, namely the founding of our research and development center. Even then, in fact, we understood the importance of offering our customers a service that was much more than just selling the machine. Even today, this area is among the most strategic and important for the company.

To make a long story short, and come to the present day, in 2017 we launched the Creative Area as part of the R&D center. A gathering place between designers, brands, manufacturers. A space in which to discuss, inform, learn, update and compare with those who live the world of textiles and fashion every day. But the news does not stop there. More things are on the way that will definitely mark our calendars.

Your First Laser Machine Was Made in 1995. That Was Really Too Early! Did the Industry Understand the Importance of the Same At That Point of Time.

You are right, when we launched the laser technology, the market was definitely not ready for such a revolution. In fact, it is undisputed today the operational, creative and safety advantage that the laser can bring to any laundry. However, in the 1990s, the technology was still in its early days, as were the effects it produced: far too flat and fake for a market that was daily in search of the most authentic vintage looks. In fact, it was the brands then that rejected the laser, precisely because of its inability to create truly interesting effects, continuing to prefer traditional techniques such as manual scraping.

Luckily, over the years, the technology has evolved, and today it is an established practice in many garment finishing processes. Indeed, it allows the creation of automated vintage effects, as well as the creation of prints, graphics, and cuts, in total safety. It also ensures high reproducibility and productivity.

In addition, it creates a new work figure, that of the laser designer, much less “physical” and more focused on the creative side.

Japan is a Different Kind of Market. What Will be Your Focus During Your Participation in Denimsandjeans Show There on Nov 1&2

Japan is certainly a unique market, but already some customers and brands are working with our technologies. In any case, we will present our latest technological innovations to the Japanese market to achieve unique aesthetics and effects in a totally responsible manner.

Examples are Wake, the first 100% natural dyeing system since it uses only vegetable waste; O-Zone, the static cabinet that uses ozone to achieve special effects such as localized discolorations, degrade and sun-bleached effects; and OBleach, the patented process that enables authentic bleach effects without using hazardous chemicals but, again, with only ozone.

It will also be the perfect opportunity to present our brand new Evolution 3 range.

The Key Focus of All Denim Manufacturers Today is To Somehow Reduce Environmental Impact. What Do You Think Has Been Your Contribution Towards This Goal?

As mentioned earlier, for us, reduction in the consumption of resources such as water, energy, emissions and in the use of chemicals has always been the mantra guiding our activity. And this is from the early days of the company, when sustainability was not as in vogue as it is now and some of our customers were not even interested in saving water. It is a daily challenge for us, and we never stop trying to improve. One example is that of our most iconic products, washing and dyeing machines, which after years of refinement we have revamped and launched as the big news of 2022. It is called Evolution 3 and is the new generation of Tonello washing and dyeing machines.

In the Evolution 3, the tried and tested machine construction allows for maximum optimization of water use during each type of process, as well as huge energy savings guaranteed by several improvements. All this guarantees reductions in energy consumption of up to 20 percent compared to previous models, a reduction in overall operating costs and to have greater competitiveness in an increasingly unpredictable market.

For more details , contact : tonello@tonello.com

Rope Dyeing

Blue Smoke Selvedge

Raw denim often fades from deep indigo to lighter blue tones and finally white. Rope Dying , as we all know , is a unique dyeing procedure that causes this. White cotton yarns are repeatedly submerged in indigo dye during this process, but the strands are never submerged for long enough for the indigo to permeate the center core of the yarn.

The Blue Smoke Stretch Selvedge appears to be a basic 11 oz selvedge denim. It has a classic appearance at first glance with a black exterior wrap, however it is actually a dark shade of indigo shadow. The white weft that can be seen peeking through the twill lines adds to this. The key to this fabric’s unique Smokey color is a small amount of black tint that is mixed into the dye. Thus, these begin as a clean denim with tonal features but gradually the blue fades and intensifies with wash. More and more of those tonal details will emerge in contrast to the denim. The Blue Smoke Stretch selvedge is a terrific option for year-round wear.

Composition: 98% Cotton, 2% Elastane

Design: Black Stitching, Black Suede Patch

Color: Dark Indigo x White Fabric Weight: 11oz Fabric Origin: Japan Made in: Canada

Red Gradient Core Denim

The 12.5oz “Red Gradient Core” denim is a special Japanese Selvedge denim woven on antique shuttle looms specifically for Naked & Famous. Here the  yarn was dyed initially with a permanent reactive red dye and then rope dyed with indigo.  After certain use, the core will reveal the variety of red hues to achieve a fading gradient tone. Sanforized to prevent shrinkage, the jeans retain a firm texture that will soften with wear. The jeans were made, cut, and stitched in North America.

Composition: 100% Cotton

Color: Indigo x White Fabric Weight: 12.5oz Fabric Origin: Japan Made in: Canada

Catechu Selvedge

The Catechu Selvedge is a 12 oz. Japanese Selvedge Denim that has had its inside weft naturally dyed with Catechu dye derived from trees. The Catechu dye is created by boiling, evaporating, and collecting the residue from the Acacia tree. This indigo denim has a warm earth tone that can be seen peeking through the twill lines. To see the color of the interior completely, flip up the cuff. Short slub cotton yarn is used to weave the indigo warp, giving the denim additional personality and highlighting vertical fading. The Catechu Selvedge has the traditional raw denim feel and is stiff and crisp. With contrast stitching, a green line selvedge ID, a suede leather patch, and silver metallic buttons and rivets, this item was cut, sewed, and constructed in Canada.

Composition: 100% Cotton

Color: Indigo x Catechu Fabric Weight: 12oz Fabric Origin: Japan Made in: Canada

You can check out full Naked and Famous FW22 collection here.