Dsquared , for their Fall’16 collection, merged the Japanese and British design sensibilities . Shortened Japanese Judo jackets combined with big Samurai skirts and tailored torsos onto half-kilt-pleated skirts. Thrown into the mix were print collage and porny manga pinups . Great Britain meets Japan in a lineup that plays off the two cultures anchored in Dsquared2 DNA of denim, leather and graphics.
The collection finds its edge riffing on volume and texture. Sportswear shapes of supersized anoraks, bomber jackets are in jacquard kimono inspired fabrics, embroidered satin and leather. A metallic peacoat is cut from crumply silver nylon paper. Doubled up outerwear is constructed with long wool overcoats on the outside and a down jacket on the interior. Karate style fold-over shirts are layered underneath.
Wide pants, shorts and jeans are defined by punk kilt overskirts. Zipping into trousers and jackets, the kilts hang askew, a graphic frame to each look. Fabricated in indigo denim, check and silk and wool, they fall at the knee or swoosh to the floor, recalling Japanese warriors and clerical cassocks. Signature Dsquared2 styling, a shirt tied around the waist is reiterated in a kilt constructed with check shirtsleeves that knot at the waist.
Manga culture influences a House exclusive explosive print on a satin parka, inset into a denim jacket and a rucksack. Fluorescent green and pink bolt studs like a series of computer dots cover leather jackets and skirts.
Iconic Japanese floral designs appear on indigo denim. Wide-legged jeans have detailed fading, darn and repair work.
Shoes are designed to accent the collection’s diverse styles. Chunky bagpiper influenced boots with trekking lacing are worn with the kilts. Pointed white and black lace-ups with raised soles are a sharp, clean finish to the bright Manga print.